≡× MENU

• Interior
• Window
• Walls
• Projects
• The buildings

Effective laminate laying schemes. Or three steps for good quality. Recommendations for preliminary preparation of the base for laying panels

Laminate, often used in flooring, can be safely called a material with balanced characteristics. In particular, it is worth noting the low cost of laminate, which, coupled with the possibility of self-installation, allows you to save a considerable part of the budget. How to lay out laminate flooring on the floor with your own hands, and we'll talk In this article.

Laying out laminate flooring is not the most difficult process, especially if you have some experience in the construction business. However, it is worth studying the issue in order to avoid the most common mistakes that can be made during the work process. Practice shows that a well-thought-out algorithm of work and high-quality preparation significantly simplify the installation of laminate flooring.

Laminate floor design

The most important point on which further actions depend is the creation of a flooring project. There are no difficulties in this - just take a sheet of paper, draw on it the room where the laminate will be laid, and put down all the dimensions. Using a similar diagram, you can have an idea of ​​what the floor structure will look like before starting work.

When designing, it is worth paying attention to the position in which the laminated panels will be located relative to the source sunlight.

Depending on this parameter, the following installation schemes can be distinguished:

1. Perpendicular. Laying the laminate at an angle relative to the window allows you to mask the joints between the panels due to rays of light.
2. Parallel. This design, unlike the previous one, makes the seams very noticeable, which is sometimes used in design to emphasize the imitation of a wooden surface.
3. Diagonally. In rare cases, laying laminated panels at an angle can be used. Installation in this case will not be easy, but if the expected result looks interesting, then the efforts made are justified (more details: " ").

Laying laminate can be done in fifty different ways, using the compatibility of longitudinal and end locks (more details: " "). The problem is that laying the material this way requires serious experience, which not everyone has. That is why it is better to choose a more simple models, having end Lock-latches and longitudinal Click-locks.

As a rule, when laying laminate flooring, the perpendicular method is used. main reason– in addition to ease of implementation, this installation allows you to create a solid floor on which the joints of the laminated boards are almost invisible. For visual expansion In a narrow room, it is better to lay the laminate parallel to the window.

Diagonal laying is well suited for very small rooms. In addition, in this way you can lay out the laminate in the case of a non-standard room shape or to divide it into separate elements.

The layout of the laminate is also necessary to determine the amount of material that will be required to complete the entire job.

Laminate calculation is simple:

• When laying laminate parallel or perpendicular, you need to add approximately 5-7% to the area of ​​the room;
• Diagonal laying is complex and requires adjustment of the slabs, so the margin should be increased to 15%.

Each pack of laminate displays the total area of ​​all the slabs inside. Having finished calculating the laying of the laminate taking into account tolerances, you need to stock up on the required amount of material, after which you can start working.

Planning the laying work

When installing laminate flooring, you will definitely need to trim the panels. Having cut off one piece of the panel from the end, you need to lay it at the beginning of the next row so that the laying is correct. When pruning, it is necessary to ensure that the length of the cut edge laid on the next row exceeds 30 cm (in some cases this figure can be reduced to 20 cm).

A discrepancy in the sizes of the boards can be observed both in length and width - in this case, the panels cannot be laid without trimming (read: " "). When adjusting the width of the laminate, you should not allow this indicator to decrease to less than 5 cm. To increase the width of the boards of the last row, it would be better to trim the first row as well. It is advisable to adjust the elements on both sides of the structure, and the canvases should remain symmetrical.

Laying can be carried out according to two basic schemes:

• Symmetrical, in which the rows are repeated with a certain periodicity;
• Asymmetrical (chaotic), in which there is no clear sequence of laying, and the panels are laid one after another as the ends are trimmed.

The latter method is more profitable and simpler, but it has one drawback - inserting parts less than 30 cm in length is impossible. Preliminary calculation of the displacement allows you to adjust all elements properly in advance. Before starting work, it won’t hurt to find out how to cut laminate at home so that the cuts are even.

When calculating the laminate laying scheme, it is necessary to take into account the thermal expansion characteristic of laminated panels. The calculation uses an indicator equal to 1.5 mm per square meter of coating. As a rule, to expand the laminate, a compensation gap of about 1-1.5 cm is left, which is masked by skirting boards.

Preparing to lay laminate flooring

The preparatory work includes not only the calculation and acquisition of the necessary materials, but also the leveling of the floor base.

To level the base floor, you can use the following methods:

• Surface grinding;
• Filling with self-leveling compounds;
• Leveling using plywood sheets mounted on joists or single fasteners.

Preparation of the base is aimed at ensuring that height differences over the entire floor area do not exceed 2 mm per two square meters. When the leveling work is completed, you need to thoroughly clean the surface of debris and dust so that this dirt does not subsequently get into the locks of the laminate - because of this, extraneous noise may occur.

The material also needs to be prepared for work. You cannot use laminate immediately after purchase - it must stay in the room for at least two days and acclimatize. It is advisable to place packs of laminate in the center of the room on top of each other so that moisture from the walls does not penetrate into the material.

When the required time has passed, the laminate must be removed from the packs and laid out to check for the presence of different shades - if they are detected, the coating is distributed over the entire surface of the floor. As a result, even in one room, a slight change in the color of the floor covering will remain unnoticeable (just look at any photo of laminate floors and be convinced of this).

Laminate laying algorithm

You can assemble the laminate yourself without any problems, but for this you need a device for laying the laminate, and you also need to understand the sequence of work.

The laminate layout algorithm is as follows:

1. After leveling the base, it is necessary to take care of waterproofing, which is especially important in the case of a concrete floor. The moisture resistance of laminate is not very high, so waterproofing is needed (this rule does not apply to a wooden base). The waterproofing material must be laid with a 20 cm overlap, and the joints are connected with tape.
2. Next, a layer of thermal insulation is laid. Thickness thermal insulation material can vary from 2 to 7 mm. During installation, the thermal insulation elements must be joined together, avoiding overlap - this can cause the laminated boards to bend. The substrate is laid perpendicular to the location of the laminate and glued with tape. It is also necessary to take into account an important point in advance - the waterproofing should lie across the substrate.
3. The next step is laying the first row of laminate flooring. When connecting slab locks to each other, you should take into account the manufacturer’s recommendations indicated on the packaging with the material. As a rule, a rubber mallet is used to install laminated panels, which helps protect the locking system and the panel itself from damage.
4. Next, you need to assemble the second row in accordance with the selected technology. After assembly, the tongue of the second row is inserted into the groove of the first at an angle specified by the manufacturer.
5. The connected rows must be moved towards the wall, while not forgetting about the expansion gap. To provide the necessary space between the laminate and the walls, spacers (homemade or purchased) are used, which are installed on the ends and sides of the covering.
6. Having assembled the first rows, you can install the subsequent ones using the same technology. This is how everything fits flooring, right up to the last rows.
7. As you approach the completion of the work, it is worth measuring all the canvases in order to adjust them if necessary. Room walls are often uneven, so accurate measurements can prevent laminated boards from being damaged by improper trimming.
8. To ensure that the last row stays in place with respect to the entire covering, a special bracket is used, which is included in the basic set of tools required for laying laminate flooring. However, often the last row is fixed using ordinary things, like a hammer or a pry bar.

Laying laminate flooring in tight spaces

When installing laminate flooring in almost every room, you have to deal with inconvenient places that are very difficult to work in. Doorways, radiators and various pipes greatly interfere with the installation of laminate flooring.

Depending on the type of interference, laying the laminate will look like this:

1. When installing laminate around heating devices It will not be possible to assemble the correct floor covering. To get rid of this problem, part of the ridge is cut off, after which the panels are connected with glue.
2. When arranging the floor around the pipe, you need to measure the dimensions of the latter and cut a hole in the panel, the diameter of which will slightly exceed the obtained data. Next, a cutout is made in the laminate to allow the slab to be placed in its place. The cut part is placed behind the pipe and fixed with glue, and the remaining gaps are masked with sealant or plastic covers.

Laying laminate in doorway begins by cutting off the bottom of the joint. In order not to cut off more than necessary, the thickness of the floor covering is first measured taking into account the underlay. It is better to do trimming in another room so that dust does not get into the laminate lock, but if this is not possible, then cleaning will be required after work. The dimensions of the door frame are drawn on the laminate, taking into account all the bends so that the resulting panel lies at a minimum distance from the opening.

Then you can proceed directly to installation. The slab is mounted so that the joint can be hidden behind the threshold. It is also worth considering that after installing the threshold, the door should close freely. It is necessary to use masking strips if the dimensions of the coating exceed 10 m in length and 8 m in width - this design allows you to close the deformation gap.

Conclusion

From what was written above, we can conclude that laying out laminate flooring yourself can be done without any problems if you know the technology of this work and take into account some of the nuances that arise during the installation process. In the end, laminate is an inexpensive coating, and the opportunity to save money on installation is clearly worth it to install the coating yourself.

Compared to many traditional types finishing laminate flooring most "young" , is modern and has managed to gain popularity among consumers due to its durability, variety of shades and textures, and ease of installation. Even without special professional skills Anyone can independently lay beautiful laminate floors in their apartment: installation is easy and simple, thanks to the convenient tongue-and-groove locking system. By following the manufacturer's instructions and installation technology, you can lay floors that look like parquet with your own hands. massive board or ceramic tiles and the quality does not differ from the work performed by a professional craftsman.

In order for laminate flooring to last for a long time, it must be laid on a perfectly flat, carefully prepared base.

Laminate panels must be brought into the room for acclimatization in advance, no less than 48 hours in advance. If chips, dents or other damage are found on the packages, they are rejected.

Laminate installation work It is recommended to perform at a room temperature of 15-30°C and relative humidity 40-70%.

The base for laying laminate flooring is considered normal if the depth of slopes and unevenness of the floor does not exceed 2 mm over a length of 1 m.

Directly on the base before starting installation work, a layer of polyethylene film 200 microns thick is laid, which protects the panels from the penetration of moisture and steam.

Besides correct installation of laminate flooring involves laying under it special substrates made of polyurethane foam, cork or other materials recommended by the manufacturer. The substrate performs the functions of heat and sound insulation, and is also a soft buffer that prevents kinks and cracks from appearing on the coating.

Preparing the base for laying laminate

Laminate Compared to other floor coverings, it is the most demanding in preparing the base: it must be perfectly level and smooth. The following can serve as a base for a laminate, subject to certain conditions:

• concrete;
• tree;
• linoleum;
• tile.

Preparing the concrete base

The finishing laminate flooring can be laid on a concrete screed in a new house only after it has completely dried, that is, approximately 25-30 days after pouring the cement-sand mixture.

When replacing the final floor covering on a concrete base, remove the old coating and check the condition of the concrete. If minor unevenness and cracks are detected, the base is leveled using a self-leveling mixture. If the damage to the old concrete is more significant, the old screed is completely removed and recreated.

Important to remember:

• For any concrete base, screed or self-leveling floor, a layer of vapor barrier made of polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns or more must be laid, overlapping by 20-25 cm and with an overlap of 10-15 cm on the walls. The joints of the film are fixed with tape.
• A polyethylene vapor barrier is not laid over the “dry screed”, since this layer is already provided for.

Preparing the wooden base

U lay laminate on an existing wooden base of an old floor is possible only if it is not affected by pests and fungus. If poorly secured floorboards are found, they are screwed to the joists with self-tapping screws. Minor irregularities and differences are eliminated with regular sanding. If there are very damaged boards and dips in the wooden foundation, they should be dismantled to the joists, leveled or replaced.

Note:

• Both concrete and wooden bases can be perfectly leveled by laying on top chipboard sheets or plywood in a checkerboard pattern.
• It is not necessary to lay a polyethylene vapor barrier layer on a base made of wood, plywood or chipboard, but a soundproofing substrate must be laid.

Base - linoleum and tiles

Considering that the basis for laying the laminate can be any sufficiently firmly fixed surface, smooth and provided with moisture insulation, then existing coatings made of linoleum or tiles are quite suitable for this role.

If the linoleum or tiles were laid in accordance with the technology on a high-quality screed, the floor of them is quite level, then these coatings do not need to be dismantled before laying the laminate. Such a base does not need a vapor barrier and, having laid the substrate, you can begin laying the laminate panels.

In what cases should laminate flooring not be laid?

Laminate is not a universal floor covering and, in order to avoid irreparable mistakes, you should remember what you cannot do with this material:

• lay on carpets;
• glue or otherwise attach to any subfloor;
• lay in a bathroom, bathhouse and other rooms with high humidity;
• lay as a finishing coating on a cable or “matte” electric floor heating system.
• In kitchens or corridors, laminate panels of the appropriate wear resistance class can be laid, subject to mandatory sealing of locking systems of any type with special sealants.

Methods for laying laminate

There are the following methods of laying laminate:

• adhesive;
• “Click” locking system;
• lock system "Lok".

Adhesive method of laying laminate panels using the tongue-and-groove system is similar traditional way piece laying parquet board. A layer of adhesive is applied to the edges of each laminate panel, and then two adjacent “panel boards” are pressed tightly against each other. The adhesive method is used to lay laminate flooring in rooms with a high intensity of use, when it is necessary to ensure increased strength of the seams and additional protection from moisture. To the disadvantages glue method include the laboriousness of the installation process, the non-disassembly of the floor structure and its fragility due to the drying of the glue during operation.

"Click" locking system is the most popular and confidently displaces the other two options due to its simplicity and ease of execution. The essence of this installation system is that the “tenon” of each panel of the next row is inserted into the “groove” of the previous panel at an angle of approximately 30°, and then tilted towards the floor and pressed until it snaps into place. Then the panel is carefully driven using a block and a hammer into the previous panel in its row until the end lock is activated.

When laying laminate with the “Lok” locking system the panels are laid on the floor strictly horizontally with a small gap relative to the adjacent panels, the “tenon” of the board being laid is aligned with the “groove” of the already laid one, and then carefully driven in with a block until the lock is activated. As in the previous case, first they combine the panels in adjacent rows, and then only finish the panel until they are aligned and the locks are snapped into place at the ends of their row.

Laminate laying diagram

Laminate, like parquet, is most often laid parallel to the direction of light but depending on design solutions or design features premises, the panels can be laid according to any of three options

• parallel to the direction of light;
• perpendicular to the direction of light;
• diagonally, that is, at an angle to the direction of light.

Depending on the direction relative to the light flux, the need to visually change the geometry of the room, or the desire to emphasize the design of the flooring material, one or another laminate laying scheme is selected, of which there are also three:

• classical;
• brick or chessboard;
• diagonal.

For all laying schemes of laminate panels remains the same general condition strength of the coating: they must be laid “staggered”, that is, each panel of the next row moves at least 15-20 cm relative to the adjacent panel of the adjacent row. With the help of a harmonious combination of lighting and laminate laying patterns, you can visually expand or narrow the room and emphasize it non-standard shape or simply create a beautiful floor covering.

Classic styling scheme

Classic scheme most often used for laying laminate flooring in residential and office premises, since it is the most economical. Laying according to this scheme is carried out parallel to the direction of the light flow and starts from the wall closest to it. In this case, the cut part of the panel of the previous row becomes the first panel in the next one. Also, panel trims appear when laying the last row, in the niches of radiators and at doorways. It is not recommended to use panels shorter than 30 cm in length, excluding areas where large stationary furniture such as sofas, cabinets, etc. will be installed. When using the classic installation scheme, laminate waste from cutting and adjusting panels rarely exceeds 5%.

Brick or checkerboard laying pattern

This laminate laying pattern resembles brickwork, here each subsequent row is laid with an offset of exactly half the panel relative to the previous one. The implementation of such a three-strip flooring pattern is associated with a large waste of material up to 15%, but the strength of such a floor is recognized as the highest. It is recommended to use a checkerboard pattern when working with single-strip, solid-color material. When laying panels with a two- to four-strip pattern according to this scheme, the pronounced connection lines at the ends of the panels can distort general drawing floor

Diagonal laying pattern

Scheme for laying laminate panels diagonally can be considered as a variation of the classic laying pattern at an angle of 45° relative to the wall in which the doorway is located. Exquisite diagonal laying of laminate flooring is readily used by designers to visually transform space. small rooms, creating a feeling of spaciousness and airiness in the interior and is especially good in rooms with corner front door. Overconsumption of material when using a diagonal laying pattern can be 10-15%, and, in square rooms it is minimal, and in narrow and long ones it is maximum.

Instructions for laying laminate flooring

Regardless of the chosen type, method and pattern of the future laminated floor, there are universal instructions for laying laminate flooring, the main provisions of which are clearly demonstrated in a video clip:

So, when laying laminate It is imperative to leave a gap of at least 10 mm between the panel and the wall, the width of which is controlled using special wedges, which are inserted before installation and removed after installation. The gap is necessary to ensure the integrity of the coating during inevitable seasonal changes in the linear dimensions of the material.

The panels of each next row are laid with a shift from the previous one, which should be at least 15-20 cm, but can reach half the length of the panel.

Laying laminate flooring indoors It is best to start from the corner where the radiator and heating system pipes are located. If this point of the room turns out to be the final point, then when laying and “finishing” last panels If difficulties arise, the radiator will become an obstacle.

When laying laminate around water supply and heating pipes, holes of the required diameter are cut out in the panels, but in such a way that the required gap of 10 mm remains between the pipe and the material.

When laying the last row most often panels of a certain width are required. Each panel of the last row is cut out taking into account its custom sizes and an operational gap of 10 mm: the geometry of the rooms is rarely ideal and the difference in the required width of two opposite panels of the outer row can be several centimeters.

The final stage of laminate installation is the fastening of baseboards and decorative thresholds in doorways.

Important: Skirting boards must be secured to special clamps, which ensure uniform pressing of the laminate around the perimeter of the room.

Floor laid according to castle method can be used immediately. If glue was used during installation, then the floor can be used after the time required for it to dry and indicated on the packaging.

One of the most popular materials when decorating floors is the so-called laminate. This is a multi-layer coating resembling particle board with a very durable outer protective coating. The idea of ​​making laminate panels and using them for flooring was born in the 70-80s in the West and very quickly spread throughout the world. Now this type of flooring is as popular as parquet and ceramic floor tiles. One of the advantages of the material is possibility of self-installation. Now we will decide what tools will be needed, how to choose the material and where to start laying the laminate.

Types and markings of laminate

Modern types of laminate, presented on the markets of Russia and the former CIS countries, have a thickness of 7 to 12 mm, a length of 1.2 - 2 m and a width of 180-190 mm. The main indicator for it is the abrasion class - it can be AC-3, AC-4, AC-5, AC-6. Previously, these classes had values ​​of 31, 32, 33, 34, with AC-5 corresponding to class 33. It is better to choose the most wear-resistant laminate: AC-4, AC-5 classes are quite suitable for home use.

All modern laminate is equipped with Click or G5 locks or their modifications. The G5 lock is one of the most modern locks and is loved by all experts. There is a plastic locking bar inside the lock. It snaps into place when the tenon fits into the groove, requiring little force. There is laminate with and without chamfers. The outer front surface of the flooring has a very wide selection of decorative patterns, which are located under the protective top layer.

Tools and materials

When performing flooring work, you need to stock up on a certain set of tools; it will also be useful in the future when repairing or installing ceilings, walls or floors. The required tool kit should contain:

• tape measure and pencil;
• building level length of at least 1.5 m;
• a jigsaw with a set of blades or a circular saw;
• electric drill;
• perforator;
• construction vacuum cleaner;
• grinder with an attachment for grinding a concrete base;
• feather drills;
• knife with spare blades;
• square;
• hammer;
• special bracket for tightening panels;
• hacksaw for metal.

None special tool is not required and every master who performs various construction works or repair. When carrying out large-scale work on laying flooring, they resort to using a cross-cutting machine.

Materials required for laying laminate flooring, the quantity of which must be calculated and purchased in advance:

• vapor barrier film 0.2 mm thick;
• substrate;
• construction tape, adhesive tape;
• Laminate panels are purchased according to the size of the room with a margin of at least 5%;
• spacer wedges;
• fasteners for baseboards;
• plinth around the perimeter of the room;
• additional elements for the plinth: internal and external corners and caps.

If the room area is large, it must be separated by expansion joints. For this purpose, there are special strips, which are matched to the tone of the main laminate.

Surface preparation before installation

Laminate flooring can be laid on a concrete floor, cement screed, wooden floor, ceramic tiles and any other smooth, durable, dry floor. A very important requirement for the base is its smooth and even surface, deviations from the horizontal should not exceed 2 mm per linear meter. For this purpose, use a regular building level and measure the entire room in different directions. If deviations exceeding this value are found, they must be corrected. When used as a base under laminate cement screed or a concrete floor, to level them, you can additionally cover them with a thin layer of the so-called self-leveling floor.

The deviation of the surface from the horizontal with proper filling will be no more than 1-2 mm per two linear meters length. If for various reasons this is difficult to do, you can try to grind off the bumps.

The surface must be clean and dry before installation; the humidity of the base is allowed within 40-65%. The optimal temperature for installation should be from 18 to 22 degrees Celsius. Therefore, before you start laying the laminate, the lamellas must be kept in the room for at least 48 hours for acclimatization to occur. During this time everything is produced preparatory work for leveling the floor base, cleaning and marking. It is worth remembering that you need to buy laminate in quantities that are 5% greater than the floor area.

On video: technology for laying underlay and laminate.

Correct coating laying technology

There are generally accepted rules for laying flooring panels, in particular: The layout of the slats is made along the rays of light coming from the window. That is, the long side of the plank should be perpendicular to the window. Therefore, the answer to the question of where to start laying laminate flooring is simple: along any wall perpendicular to the window. In this case, the seams between the panels are less noticeable. Laying laminate flooring diagonally across a room, although technically feasible, is not used due to the large amount of waste, and the seams with this layout will be more noticeable than with a traditional one.

After laying the first row, the second row is shifted by 1/2 or 1/3 of the length of the laminate strip. This is done to more firmly connect the laminate into one common array. A method can also be used when the second row begins with trimming from the previous row - in this case, a minimum amount of waste is obtained. Usually the laminate laying scheme is calculated.

Before starting work, a vapor barrier film with an overlap of 150 mm should be placed on the surface of the base and sealed with tape. The film is laid so that it extends onto the walls, where it is subsequently pressed against the baseboard. Then it is necessary to lay a layer of substrate 2 mm thick - usually this is rolled polyurethane. There is also a more expensive cork underlay; it is often used in offices, as well as when laying parquet.

The next stage is laying laminate slabs. Before installation begins, it is necessary to inspect the entire laminate so that all locks are intact and clean. It is also necessary to calculate the laying of the laminate and find out the width of the last row of slabs. This width should not be less than 50 mm.

You can start from any wall perpendicular to the window. The first row of laminate is laid along the wall, the planks are connected with end locks. In this case, a gap of 10 mm is left between the laminate strips and the walls, which is ensured using spacer wedges. There are several ways to connect second row laminate planks. You can install each strip separately, as indicated in the instructions. But it is better if first the planks of the second row are connected to each other using end locks. Then the entire second strip is joined to the first, sometimes an assistant is required for this.

Nuances and subtleties when laying laminate

At quality training base and proper installation of the laminate, such flooring can last a very long time - up to 20 years. At the same time, it is important to observe the humidity regime and arrange a vapor barrier, since this material is very sensitive to moisture. It is not used in bathrooms. It is also necessary to make temperature gaps near the walls, door frames. Laminate flooring is a type of floating floor. When the humidity and temperature of the slab changes, the entire covering expands and if sufficient clearances are not provided, swelling may occur.

When installing laminate flooring in several adjoining rooms It’s worth dividing the array and not making it continuous in all rooms. It's better to split it at the border interior doors using a special threshold. In this case, it is easier to carry out repairs if the laminate suddenly swells in one of the rooms.

In the corridor, when laying laminate flooring, you must use the following rule: lay the panels with the long side in the direction of primary movement, that is, from the front door.

Conclusion

When performing flooring installation work, you must strictly follow simple rules. Also, the durability of such a coating depends on the quality of the laminate slabs. Therefore, you should not save on material, but buy flooring only from proven world leaders, since such savings can result in big problems. Technologically, laying laminate flooring is not very difficult, and therefore this work Any person can perform it if they have the tools and certain skills. If it is difficult to do the work yourself, you can contact specialists who will help you choose and lay laminate flooring.

Secrets of laying laminate flooring (2 videos)

Laminate is a modern, high-tech and relatively inexpensive floor covering that has excellent performance characteristics and has many color and texture options that imitate various breeds wood will create coziness and a rich atmosphere in any home, and will satisfy the taste requirements of even the most sophisticated person. Other important feature, which inclines many to choose this particular floor covering and leaves virtually no chance for others - manufacturability in assembly, which allows you to do all the installation work yourself.

To assemble a floor, it is not at all necessary to involve craftsmen, as well as special skills and, especially, any expensive and specialized tools that will not be in demand after work. household. All you need to do is strictly follow the rules established by the manufacturer; thanks to them, laying laminate flooring with your own hands will be done quickly and efficiently, and the achieved result will please you for many years, and often even longer than the service life declared by the manufacturer.

Requirements for the subfloor

Laminate is a composite material, which is a multilayer lamella, each layer of which has a specific functional purpose and provides the necessary strength and decorative characteristics. Without going into technological features production, we can say that the base is MDF on the bottom and top sides, lined with a protective and decorative coating, respectively.

Fig.1.

Along the perimeter, the lamella is equipped with a system of locks that ensure reliable connection of the elements. Structurally, it is designed in such a way that when joining the panels it closes with a click, greatly simplifying assembly, however, the openwork of these elements requires care and attention when working, and imposes certain requirements on the subfloor.

Fig.2.

Naturally, the surface of any base has a certain relief and some defects are not always acceptable and must be eliminated. Otherwise, during operation, the locks will be subject to high loads for which they are not designed, which will lead to loosening of joints, unraveling of seams, penetration of moisture and dirt into them, followed by swelling decorative covering and its becoming completely unusable.

Realizing the troubles described above, laminate manufacturers have developed general requirements for the shape of the relief and the size of irregularities; the height difference on them should not exceed 2 mm per 2 m of floor area. The easiest way to assess whether this rule is met or not is to use a building level; by applying it to the floor in various places, you can easily see whether there is a gap and whether it is within acceptable limits.

Fig.3.

Quite often the question arises whether it is possible to lay laminate flooring on linoleum or parquet, provided that all of the above requirements are met. In this regard, manufacturers of laminate flooring (LP) do not give a negative answer, which is good news, since removing old floors is always an additional and rather tedious task.

Methods for eliminating floor defects

The time spent on eliminating the problems of the rough foundation and the complexity of performing this work can be many times greater than the effort expended on laying the finishing coating, but this is in its own way a guarantee of long and problem-free operation of the latter.

In houses of different times of construction, the subfloor can be wooden or concrete; the choice of method for eliminating all kinds of defects depends on this. Regardless of the type of base, ultimately it must be smooth, durable, and meet the requirements of drug manufacturers.

An old screed can have many different problems, most of them can be solved with cement-sand mortar. The cracks are expanded and puttied, the flaking pieces are removed and, like the recesses, they are filled with fresh mixture, or specialized repair compounds are used. After hardening and complete drying, the floor is ready for further work.

Fig.4.

Quite often it happens that even after a lot of effort has been put into repairing the screed, its quality still does not meet the requirements. Then self-leveling mixtures come to the rescue; by creating a uniform layer of just a few millimeters, they allow you to achieve a perfectly flat floor surface.

Fig.5.

A fresh screed made using modern technologies is often free of any defects and potential problems, with the exception of moisture and dust. Residual moisture is its integral companion, which has an extremely negative effect on the base of the lamella - MDF, therefore the new cement floor must be thoroughly dried and its surface treated with a primer deep penetration, which will eliminate flaking and dustiness.

Fig.6.

A wooden floor, compared to a concrete floor, is somewhat superior in terms of the speed of eliminating defects, due to the absence of the need for drying, dust removal and priming.

The main problem of wood is its lack of durability, its tendency to rot and lose its properties; this does not happen with plank floors, so first, defective areas are identified and elements that have become unusable are replaced. After this, the floor can be scraped, having previously sunk the nails and screws into the body of the boards in order to protect against possible damage to the working tool.

Fig.7.

Rounding can be done different ways, for example, using a special machine, this allows you to achieve the best result. In the absence of the latter, you can use an electric planer, and for minor height differences, a manual belt sander.

Fig.8.

Despite the fact that the previous method is less expensive, in most cases they try to avoid it when carrying out work on their own, this happens mostly due to the banal lack of the necessary tools.

To solve the problems of old wooden floors, in 90% of cases the method of leveling the floor with plywood 10-12 mm thick is used. It is laid in a checkerboard pattern and secured with self-tapping screws to the floorboards, while the fastener spacing should not exceed 15-20 cm. In place of plywood, any sheet material, for example, chipboard, gypsum fiber board, DSP, etc.

Fig.9.

Vapor barrier and backing for laminate

As already mentioned in passing earlier, MDF, which serves as the basis of any lamella, has a negative attitude towards high humidity, the source of which, as it may not sound surprising, is the concrete base of the floor. The fact is that cement structural elements of a building perfectly absorb and accumulate not only water that accidentally gets on them, for example, as a result of a leak, but also moisture inevitably present in the air, and transfer it to all decorative materials adjacent to them, wallpaper , flooring, etc. This applies to both new and old screeds, as well as all kinds of leveling compounds based on cement.

The solution to this problem is a vapor barrier; in the case of LP, this function is perfectly performed by polyethylene laid on the screed. By and large, you can purchase any film for these purposes, but if you follow the recommendations, you should still use it with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm or 200 microns. It is laid so that there is an overlap of the strips of at least 20 cm; such an allowance will guarantee that they will not spread out and a gap will not form. It is recommended to additionally secure the joints with tape.

Fig. 10.

Things are much simpler with wooden base, its material is already well dried when laying, and if we are talking about old floors, then after many years of service the residual moisture tends to zero. For this reason, there is no point in installing a vapor barrier.

If the insulation is an optional layer that fits only in certain cases, then the substrate is an integral part of any laminate; without it, installation is in principle unacceptable. Its main purpose is to dampen and compensate for the smallest irregularities, which, even with careful preparation, still remain. Today there are many varieties of it, made from various materials and their combinations. Each type differs not only in cost, but also in scope, this circumstance must be strictly observed.

• Foamed polyethylene. This type is often associated with packaging material, but in fairness it is worth noting that this was originally the case. This is the most inexpensive substrate, available in thicknesses of 2 and 3 mm, does not absorb moisture, and is essentially heat and sound insulation. However, it is not reasonable to use it for high-quality laminate flooring due to its low service life and mediocre characteristics as an insulating and damping material. It quickly becomes brittle, and in areas of greatest traffic it becomes very compact and loses its properties, which leads to visible curvature of the floor and the appearance of an unpleasant sound when walking.

Fig. 11.

• Extruded polystyrene foam. No matter what anyone says, this is a compromise between cost and consumer qualities, so this is the most popular material, and it is used in most cases. Expanded polystyrene has high density, perfectly smooths out micro-irregularities, is not subject to compaction, embrittlement, or chemical attack over time, and copes very well with the functions of sound and heat insulation. Available in mats and rolls.

Fig. 12.

• Cork. The name itself suggests that this is an environmentally friendly material that has all the properties of natural wood bark. Made from impregnated crumbs adhesive composition, has excellent soundproofing properties, has low coefficient heat transfer, performs excellently as a substrate, has a long service life and is used with long-life laminates. Don't forget that this natural material, which is sensitive to moisture, so it is used in places where the likelihood of leaks is minimized.

Fig. 13.

• Bitumen-cork. It is made on a cellulose basis, the cork chips are fixed not with glue, as in the previous case, but with bitumen resin, which gives it greater strength and, as a result, extends its service life. At the same time, this particular type of substrate is recommended for use in conjunction with a heated floor system.

Fig. 14.

• Polyurethane backing on aluminum foil. The most expensive, but also the most technologically advanced material with the best characteristics. Considering its features, the feasibility of using polyurethane is seen for laying high-quality expensive coatings such as parquet boards.

Fig. 15.

Despite the abundance of types of substrates, the decisive criterion in the choice should be the instructions or recommendations of the LDL manufacturer indicated on the packaging. By following these requirements, you will definitely not make a mistake in your choice and thereby ensure that you receive the service life declared by the manufacturer.

Whatever type of backing material you prefer, it spreads the same way. Laying can be done in stages as the panels are assembled or all at once over the entire area of ​​the room, with its individual parts secured together with tape.

Fig. 16.

Scheme and direction of laying

Before directly starting to assemble the slats, many people wonder about the direction of their location relative to the walls of the room, and this is very reasonable. By and large, there are no clear rules or guidelines in this matter, but there are specific recommendations that allow you to make visual metamorphoses of the room, and are also intended to improve the appearance of the decorative floor covering.

Fig. 17.

Let's start with the latter, so if the panels are placed perpendicular to the direction of incidence of sunlight, then their joints will be visible much better than if they were oriented parallel. This leads to a simple rule: the slats should be laid parallel or at an angle to the direction of incidence of sunlight from the window.

This makes two the best option, but which one is better? They already come into force here design techniques interior design.

• If you are renovating a room rectangular section, the windows of which are located on a narrow wall, then the diagonal method looks most correct; it will visually expand the room. A rectilinear one, on the contrary, will give the room a more elongated look, which can be perfectly used for dividing into different zones, for example, for the living room.

Fig. 18.

• If the light openings are located along a longer wall, the priority becomes to expand the room; here it is more correct to place the panels in parallel, while the corner option will somewhat balance the disproportion.

Fig. 19.

When making a decision regarding the direction of laying the panels, it is important to understand that the diagonal option is more complex in execution and incurs higher costs for materials. Therefore, it is important to weigh the pros and cons and make the right decision.

The laying scheme is no less important; it is not only the prerogative of design, but also has a direct bearing on the assembly technology and the resulting quality and service life of the laminate. The flooring scheme should be understood as the order of formation separate rows and their relative position relative to each other. The laying technology requires the rows to be offset by at least 1/3 of the lamella length, otherwise the reliability and strength of the interlocking connections will be in question.

Based on the practical implementation of this requirement, two options for displacement by 1\2 and 1\3 of the lamella length can be distinguished.

• Half-boarding is the simplest method and is preferred by those who first started doing this work; this option assumes that odd rows begin with a whole lamella, and even rows with half.

Fig.21.

• Laying in thirds is more prone to confusing the newly minted master; here the first row starts with a whole board, the second with 1/3, the third with 2/3 and the fourth again with a whole.

Fig.22.

From a design point of view, the latter option is preferable, since it allows you to hide the joints and visually the floor covering appears whole and not consisting of discrete parts.

Fig.23.

There's one more thing important rule which must be taken into account before starting work - the width of the last row must be at least 5 cm. To take this into account, you will have to dive a little into the calculations. To do this, having decided on the direction, measure the width of the room (perpendicular to the direction of the panels), subtract from it 20 mm required to create a compensation gap near the walls and divide it by the width of the lamella (indicated on the packaging). We received exact amount rows. Now, by multiplying the fractional part by the width of the panel, we find out the desired value; if it turns out to be less than 5 cm, then the first row must be reduced to the appropriate size.

Fig.24.

Types of locks, installation methods and rules

There are several ways to assemble slats, the use of one or another depends on the type of lock, which can also vary depending on the manufacturer and model of the floor covering. From many possible options There are three fundamentally different locking connections: “lock”, “click” and “uniclick”.

Fig.25.

Lock "lock"- connected by tapping with a hammer in order to drive the tenon into the groove until complete elimination gap between panels. This is a reliable and durable option that requires constant attention from the craftsman to ensure the tightness of the fit.

Fig.26.

System "C"lick"- implies connecting the panels using a snap-in method, i.e. the ridge of one lamella is inserted into the groove of the other at an angle of 20-30 degrees and snaps into place with a characteristic click, hence the name. The advantage of this type of lock is the ability to be easily disassembled, which is extremely important for replacing damaged parts.

Fig.27.

Lock connection "uniclick"- a combination of the systems described above, which allows you to connect the panels in any way convenient for you, and is easy to disassemble if repairs are necessary.

Depending on the type of lock, there are two methods of assembly, one board at a time and in rows for the “lock” and “click” systems, respectively. For uniclick, any of the methods, as well as a combination of them, can be used.

Fig.28.

Regardless of the design features of the panels, the following rules should be strictly observed:

• The laminate must be left hanging for 48 hours so that its temperature is equal to room temperature, otherwise there may be defects during installation.
• There should be a gap of 10 mm between the floor covering and the walls of the room to compensate for the thermal expansion of the lamellas. It is created using wedges; for this purpose, you can use scraps of plywood or panels.
• The lamellas should always be laid with the groove towards you; if the installation is carried out from left to right, then the groove should be located on the right, if from right to left, then vice versa.
• The groove and tongue of the panels adjacent to the walls must be cut.

To complete all the work you will need:

Fig.29.

• Installation kit (wedges, block, clamp).
• Saw or jigsaw.
• Hammer.
• Roulette, ruler.
• Pencil.

Assembly one board at a time

Assembling one panel at a time involves connecting them in series. Let's agree that the direction of the flooring will be from left to right.

Everyone faces the question of how to lay laminate flooring with their own hands. more people. This is due to the ever-increasing popularity of beautiful, shiny flooring that fits into any design of a residential or non-residential area.

Laminate flooring is produced not only in different colors, but also in different qualities and designs. For example, there are several strength classes of laminated boards, each of which corresponds to a certain level of load. The weakest and most inexpensive laminate is suitable for installation in the bedroom. And for corridors, living rooms, and kitchens, it’s worth taking a closer look at commercial options that can withstand heavy operating loads.

At the same time, laminate flooring is not installed in the bathroom at all because the material is moisture-resistant. Despite the fact that the laminate is covered with a moisture-repellent layer, the joints are the weak point of this floor covering. If spilled water will remain on the surface of the boards for a long time and seep into the fastening areas, this can lead to swelling and similar defects in the laminate.

If we consider the methods of installing laminate boards, there are only two of them:

• lock-type connection (each individual board has locking grooves and tenons of the “lock” or “click” type on four sides, assembly is carried out with one click);
• adhesive connection (more resistant to moisture and, with appropriate processing, suitable for the kitchen area, but installation is somewhat complicated).

The boards are usually laid perpendicular to the window, but it is possible to lay them diagonally in the room (45 or 30 degree angle) to visually increase the space. The latter option involves greater consumption of material for arranging the flooring.

Let's look at how to calculate and find out required amount material.

In order not to spend money on extra packs of laminate or, on the contrary, not to run to the store if there is not enough quantity, it is worth stocking up on a tape measure and a calculator.

It is necessary to measure the dimensions of the entire room where installation is planned. It is necessary to take into account all protrusions into the corridor, onto the balcony, etc. We find the area of ​​the room and each ledge/niche/column by multiplying the found length and width, taking into account the complexity of the room layout.

Note! Expansion joints should be taken into account - 15 mm along each wall where the laminate will be missing.

Now we need to determine the area of ​​each laminate board. Most manufacturers produce laminate with dimensions of 1.26 x 0.185 m or 1.38 x 0.195 m. Accordingly, the area will be 0.2331 or 0.2691 square meters.

All that remains is to divide the area of ​​the room by the area of ​​the panels you have chosen and round the result up to a whole number. For example, for a room of 10 m2 you will need 43 or 38 panels.

All that remains is to find out how many laminate boards are in one package (usually 8 pieces) and divide the total quantity required panels by the number of boards contained in one package. Therefore, 43/8 = 6 (rounded up to allow for trimming and scrap) or 38/8 = 5 packs.

Attention! Despite the apparent simplicity of laying laminate flooring, it is recommended to purchase additional packaging (if large area premises - 2-3 packages) of material. After all, without any work experience, you can easily ruin the board by cutting it on the wrong side or damaging the fastening. And if you are planning diagonal laying, then it is recommended to increase the margin for trimming by 15-20%.

Have you purchased the material? Don't rush to start styling! Let the laminate sit in a warm room for a day or two.

What will you need for work?

To install laminate flooring yourself, you should stock up on:

• with a jigsaw – sawing laminate by hand is quite difficult;
• wedges - to maintain an expansion joint between the covering and the wall;
• a small block of wood;
• mallet;
• hook/clamp – will be needed when laying the end parts of the covering;
• tape measure and square;
• tape;
• pencil;
• scissors.

Under the laminate you will need a thermal and vapor barrier substrate, but in the case of laying panels on linoleum, you can neglect the use of this layer.

To increase the strength of the joints of panels with interlock fastening or for adhesive laminate flooring, you will need a water-repellent vinyl sealant (for example, Moment or Click Guard).

Preparing rough flooring for laminate

As all manufacturers state, the material must be laid strictly horizontal surface floor without differences, potholes and other irregularities, each of which will negatively affect the longevity of the laminate panels.

If you do not want the floor to diverge, creak, or play in the future, level the floor with a screed or self-leveling mixture. You don’t have to disassemble the wooden floor by covering all the joints of the boards with putty and sanding them with a sanding machine. Quite smooth linoleum, carpet covering and even tiles also can not be dismantled. Be sure to check the horizontal position with a building level.

How to lay laminate flooring at a 45 degree angle (diagonally)

This installation scheme is quite complex, but the room will look non-standard and very attractive.

1. Laying the substrate

If the base of the floor is concrete, you can additionally prime it and remove dust. From other smooth rough surfaces, it is enough to remove furniture, sweep away debris and dirt. The area of ​​the roll or sheet backing must correspond to the area of ​​the room. The flooring is made without overlap. We lay the sheet type substrate according to the type brickwork(with offset). We fix the joints with tape.

1. Let's start laying

We will lay the first board in the far left corner of the room. Using a square with sides of 45 degrees, we mark and cut the ends of the first panel with a jigsaw. If necessary, cut holes for the radiator pipes. We place wedges (size 10-15 mm) close to the wall. Place the first board in the corner.

The next row of laminate floorboards will consist of two boards. We mark and cut in such a way that the connection of the two floorboards of the second row is in the center of the first laid board. We cut the edges that will be adjacent to the wall accordingly at an angle of 45 degrees.

We connect the first and second rows:

• under the condition of a “lock” type laminate connection, each board is inserted separately, the joint is made with the adjacent board of the row and the top laid row of floorboards;
• Rows of laminate panels with a click connection are installed differently. First, the entire row of boards is connected at the ends and only after that is inserted into the groove of the previous laid row of laminate.

Attention! It is necessary to maintain a “run-up” of about 20-40 cm between the end seams of two adjacent rows of laminate.

We gradually move from the far left corner of the room towards the lower right. We insert triangular pieces of boards directly into the corners using a simple device - a hook, tapping it with a mallet to ensure a tight connection.

Video - How to lay laminate flooring diagonally

How to lay laminate flooring the traditional way

This method is simple and more economical in material consumption than the diagonal laying method.

We prepare the surface and lay the substrate according to the instructions described above. Next, open the first package and begin installation.

Each laminate floorboard has tongue and groove joints. The first row of floorboards will be located close to the wall (taking into account the compensation gap), so it is necessary to rotate the panel so that the grooves face the wall and the ridges face the inside of the room.

We assemble the first row. After the first board is placed in one of the corners of the room, take the second panel from the package and connect the ends of adjacent floorboards, immediately aligning the boards in a straight line. In this way we join the boards, moving along the wall in opposite corner. The last board of the row will need to be cut. We take measurements with a ruler or tape measure, then apply markings to the outer floorboard and carry out cutting, not forgetting about the compensation gap of 10-15 mm.

We start the second row with the piece of board remaining after cutting, then extend the row with whole floorboards. When the second row is laid, you should take a wooden block, a mallet and carefully tap it so that lock connection latched tightly.

To lay the last row, you will have to cut the boards longitudinally. Follow the “measure seven times” rule, not forgetting about possible unevenness of the walls and the need to leave a gap between the boards and the wall.

Video - DIY laminate installation

In addition to the listed installation methods, there are also innovative methods of laying laminate flooring in a herringbone pattern and other methods similar to the technology of laying parquet boards. In addition, when laying, you can combine laminate in several shades, creating an exclusive floor covering for your interior.