What glue to use to glue polycarbonate. Using adhesives for gluing polycarbonate How to glue cellular polycarbonate together
When working with polycarbonate, you may sometimes need to fasten individual parts of this material together, and the best way to do this is to use polycarbonate glue.
Gluing polycarbonate allows you to create single structures from individual parts, but without resorting to the use of unattractive connecting elements. In this case, it is extremely important to choose the right adhesive that would provide high strength finished product, allowed the material to retain its properties, resistance to various kinds external influences(both mechanical and atmospheric) did not affect its appearance.
Types and features of polycarbonate adhesive
When answering the question of how and with what to glue polycarbonate, you should consider different kinds glue (one- and two-component), determine their characteristics and purpose.
If it is necessary to glue relatively simple elements, it is advisable to use a one-component glue, which is easier to use. It can be used to glue polycarbonate to plastic, rubber, metal and other types of material. This glue is characterized by fast and strong bonding, resistance to temperature fluctuations, precipitation, and moisture. In addition, it contains no solvents.
Depending on the components on which the glue is created, it can be: silicone, polyurethane, ethylene vinyl acetate, acrylic foam, hot-curing glue.
When forming large and complex structures, it is recommended to use silicone glue, which is not only highly durable and resistant to any weather conditions, but also because its application does not in any way deteriorate the appearance of the product. Before gluing polycarbonate with silicone-based glue, the surfaces must be degreased with isopropyl alcohol and primed. When applying glue, it is recommended to use a pouring tube, syringe or plastic bottle with an applicator. Perhaps the only drawback of this glue is that it is available in white, gray and black, while there is no transparent option.
If the question arises about how to glue polycarbonate when creating small products that do not require extreme strength, then we can recommend using hot-curing glue or ethylene vinyl acetate glue. Special guns are used to apply them.
To obtain a particularly strong connection between parts, you can use polyurethane glue, which provides excellent connection between polycarbonate and plastic, aluminum, metal and wooden surfaces(read also: " "). This glue is applied using a mechanical or pneumatic gun.
How to connect cellular polycarbonate, in detail in the video:
There are often cases when the polymer needs repair. For example, when cracks and small holes formed on the shed roof after a hail storm, or when the polycarbonate sank after a heavy snowfall. Such situations occur due to incorrectly selected sheet thickness or poor quality material.
Important detail: In order for polycarbonate to need repair as little as possible, it is worth purchasing it from trusted manufacturers, and you also do not need to skimp on its thickness.
In addition, so that the construction polymer coating served for a long time, all installation work must be carried out in accordance with the instructions. Polycarbonate material should be stored in a ventilated area.
How to repair polycarbonate with your own hands?
This question often arises for summer residents and owners of private houses who are faced with a similar problem.
Cracks and small holes are filled with sealant (both transparent silicone and gray roofing sealant are suitable). You can also pull it off using thermal washers and self-tapping screws. If a significant part is damaged, it is necessary to replace the polymer sheet with a new one.
How to repair a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands if it breaks due to snow?
There are cases when snow “broke” a greenhouse covered with polymer material. What to do in such a situation? Let's look at an example.
The greenhouse measuring 8 m was covered with polymer plastic, the thickness of the coating was 4 mm. A structure with a sheet thickness of 8 mm would withstand a similar load, since the thickness of the sheet is much greater, as well as the arches are at a smaller distance from each other and the thickness of the profile is greater.
So, to repair a structure made of polycarbonate material that has sagged from snow, you need to:
- raise the frame and covering;
- supports are inserted under the raised frame and polymer plastic (most often such supports are wooden);
- you can’t do without a jack (with its help they give the structure the required shape);
- you will need plates made of metal, in which small holes are drilled;
- remove the old fastener and install a new one in its place, metal plates;
- bolts are used to connect the plate to the profile;
- Then the bolts are tightened (this process gives the profile the required shape).
What needs to be done to ensure that cellular polycarbonate needs repair as little as possible?
Firstly, you should not skimp on the thickness of the sheets. It is also necessary in winter period From time to time, clear snowdrifts from the structure. The roof of a building most often breaks due to the fact that the frame is weak and unable to withstand additional, unexpected loads, such as weather conditions.
Also, when choosing a design, you need to pay attention to its quality, as some manufacturers try to save money on it. There are often situations when the profile section is weak and of poor quality.
Therefore, in order to avoid polycarbonate repairs in the near future, it is necessary to purchase a high-quality structure in advance, where all components will be strong and reliable.
To ensure the design is reliable, the tips below will help:
- It is better to choose thicker sheets for covering the greenhouse.
- You can make a more durable frame yourself. They will help with this profile pipes and profiles.
- It is recommended not only to remove snow from the roof, but also to install supports in winter. Logs and beams are suitable as supports.
- Also, do not forget that great importance It has correct installation frame and polycarbonate.
Advice: If you choose polycarbonate with a greater thickness, then such a sheet will last much longer, it will rarely have to be changed or repaired, so it is strongly recommended not to skimp on it.
DIY polycarbonate repair
Repairing polycarbonate with your own hands will not cause any special problems if you know some points and take into account... Repairing polycarbonate begins with determining the cause...
How to seal polycarbonate in a greenhouse
Farming has recently gained popularity again among rural residents. Technologies have made it possible to harvest several crops per year at once. This can be done using greenhouses. Plants growing in isolation external environment, bear fruit even in winter. Contributes to this special material– polycarbonate. They are used to cover the metal frame of the greenhouse. Depending on the quality of the material, the structure can last up to 10 years.
Adhesive for polycarbonate
Materials and blanks
Sometimes when low temperatures or due to mechanical stress, cracks and holes may appear in the polycarbonate. There is no way to avoid this. Sooner or later, wear of the coating will occur, which can lead to unpleasant consequences - loss of yield. If you have a similar problem, there are several ways to solve it. You can seal a hole in the polycarbonate of a greenhouse using the following materials:
Also in some cases you will need a small piece of polycarbonate. Tools that will be useful are a knife, scissors, a brush, a hair dryer, a saw, and sandpaper.
Methods for temporarily sealing holes
- Oblong cracks can be glued with regular tape. On the surface of the greenhouse, where a crack or small gap is noticed, formed during the process of cracking of the material under the influence of temperature changes and other natural phenomena, apply plastic tape (adhesive tape) and iron it thoroughly. After this, you should try to heat the edges of the tape so that they fit as tightly as possible and do not peel off under the influence of moisture. You can heat it up using an ordinary hairdryer, which will make the task much easier, and you will easily be able to glue the surfaces together.
Such repairs give temporary results, so it is natural that there are some shortcomings. Minuses this method sealing cracks is due to the instability of this material to weather conditions. In the future, the section will need to be replaced or better insulated in another way. The photo shows the moment when you have to replace an entire sheet.
- You can seal small holes in polycarbonate with insulating tape. It is much more resistant to climatic conditions and does not come off when the adhesive dries out under the influence of the sun. This will help delay the destruction of the coating for some time. However, this material will not be airtight if it is periodically exposed to moisture. Therefore, during the rainy season, it is better not to try to install a temporary duct tape splint on the roof of the greenhouse.
Major renovation
- Liquid nails can be used to seal not only holes in the material, but also to process joints. This universal substance is similar to plasticine. When dried, it becomes hard and strong. Viscous material will last much longer than others. Such repairs will allow you not to worry about the tightness of the applied splint.
- More serious damage can be removed by applying a patch made of polycarbonate or film. A piece is cut out the right size and shape and is attached to the wall of the greenhouse using rubber adhesive. In order to seal the surfaces as tightly as possible, they should be treated with sandpaper. When the patch and the area around the hole are well sanded, they are treated with glue.
- One more affordable option is an adhesive film. It can be purchased at any hardware store. It is excellent for gluing large surfaces, does not tear, and does not change in frost.
Under no circumstances should you try to seal the damage by melting polycarbonate. The substances it consists of are very toxic and can cause poisoning. Heating can also cause a fire.
Installation instructions for cellular polycarbonate
Panel cutting
Sheets of cellular polycarbonate and polycarbonate profiles are quite easy to cut. For better cutting it is necessary use high speed circular saws with emphasis. Blades for such saws must have small, unset teeth and be reinforced with hard alloys. When cutting polycarbonate panels, the profiles must be securely supported to avoid vibration. Cutting can also be done with a band saw.
After the panels are cut, they are internal cavities necessary remove chips.
Drilling holes
Sealing the ends of a cellular polycarbonate panel
Important properly close the ends of the panels. When the sheets are arranged at an angle or vertically, the upper ends must be sealed with solid aluminum self-adhesive tape. Cover the lower ends with a special perforated tape, which will prevent the penetration of dust and ensure condensate drainage. If the structure has an arched appearance, then both ends must be covered with perforated tape.
We strongly recommend using polycarbonate end profiles of similar color. They are quite aesthetic, reliable and very comfortable. The design of such profiles provides for fairly tight fixation at the ends of the panels and does not require additional fasteners.
To ensure condensate drainage, it is necessary drill several holes in the end profile.
It is forbidden Leave the ends of the cellular polycarbonate open, seal them with regular tape, and also hermetically seal the lower ends of the panels.
Orientation of polycarbonate panels during design and installation
In cellular polycarbonate, internal stiffeners are located along the length of the sheet (typical sizes are 3m, 6 or 12m). The panel must be oriented in such a way that the condensate that will form inside the panel can flow through its internal channels and be discharged outside.
If the glazing has a vertical orientation, then the stiffening ribs should be located vertically, in a pitched structure, respectively, along the slope. If the frame has an arched appearance, then the stiffening ribs should follow an arc and not parallel to the ground. These conditions must be taken into account at the design stage of the structure when calculating the number of sheets of cellular polycarbonate and their correct cutting.
For outdoor use, it is advisable to use cellular polycarbonate coated with a special protective UV-stabilizing layer, which is applied to outer surface panels. On this side, the polycarbonate sheet has a protective film with special markings. We recommend installing the panels without removing this film, and doing this only after completion of the work.
It is forbidden bend the panels to a smaller radius than specified by the manufacturer for the specific thickness and structure of polycarbonate. Also, you cannot violate the rules of sheet orientation.
Point fastening of panels
Point fastening of cellular polycarbonate sheets to the frame is carried out using self-tapping screws and special thermal washers.
Thermal washer consists of a plastic washer with a leg, the height of which corresponds to the thickness of the panel, a sealing washer and a snap-on lid. This device allows you to reliably and hermetically fasten polycarbonate panels, as well as eliminate the “cold bridges” created by self-tapping screws. In addition, the leg of the thermal washer will rest against the frame of the structure and thereby prevent the material from collapsing.
In order to compensate thermal expansion cellular polycarbonate, the holes in the panels must be made 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the thermal washer leg. And if the panel is long, then it is recommended to make the holes elongated along the sheet. The recommended point mounting spacing is 300-400 mm.
Cellular polycarbonate panels it is forbidden fasten too tightly by overtightening the screws, use rivets, nails and unsuitable washers for fastening.
Connecting and fastening panels
To connect sheets of cellular polycarbonate to each other, one-piece and detachable polycarbonate profiles are used, which can also be transparent and colored.
Installation using one-piece profiles.
The panels are inserted into the grooves of the profile corresponding to the thickness of the cellular polycarbonate sheets. Then, using self-tapping screws equipped with thermal washers, this profile is attached to the longitudinal supports of the frame.
The panels can also be installed using detachable polycarbonate profiles. They consist of two parts: the lower part is the “base”, the upper part is the snap-on lid.
- Holes are drilled in the “base”, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screw. The pitch is approximately 300 mm.
- Attach the “base” using self-tapping screws to the longitudinal support of the frame, and then lay polycarbonate sheets on both sides, leaving a “thermal gap” of about 3-5 mm.
- Using a wooden mallet, snap the profile “cover” along its entire length. Then close the ends of the profile with special plugs.
What needs to be taken into account when designing a structure frame for cellular polycarbonate
When designing a cellular polycarbonate coating, it is important to consider:
- standard sizes of sheets of material and their economical cutting;
- exposure to snow and wind loads;
- thermal expansion of polycarbonate panels, for example, with seasonal temperature changes from -40 to +40°C, each meter of cellular polycarbonate sheet will undergo a change of approximately 5.2 mm;
- while creating arched structures permissible bending radii of panels;
- the need to complete cellular polycarbonate with mounting elements (screws, thermal washers, connecting and end profiles, self-adhesive tapes).
Repair of polycarbonate greenhouses
A polycarbonate greenhouse, like any other structure, requires regular maintenance and sometimes repairs. This article will tell you about proper care of the greenhouse, as well as techniques and repair methods.
Repair of polycarbonate greenhouses
Types of repair and maintenance of greenhouses
To maximize the service life of a polycarbonate greenhouse, it is necessary not only to eliminate any malfunctions and damage that have occurred, but also to prevent their occurrence. With proper care of the greenhouse, most troubles can be avoided.
Polycarbonate greenhouse
Preventative maintenance of a greenhouse includes:
- the washing up;
- visual inspection;
- pulling self-tapping screws;
- updating the protective coating of the frame;
- checking the strength of the structure;
- strengthening the greenhouse for the winter.
Planned repairs of any polycarbonate greenhouse include inspection of all parts of the structure for damage, painting and cleaning of elements, strength control
If malfunctions occur, repair work is carried out:
- full or partial replacement of polycarbonate;
- sealing cracks and punctures;
- purging internal cavities from water and dust;
- frame repair;
- foundation repair.
All work must be carried out in a timely manner - this way the damage will be minimal and you will avoid extra costs. Best time for scheduled maintenance of the greenhouse - spring or autumn, when there is a stable above-zero temperature outside, but there are no plants in the greenhouse. TO repair work It’s better to start right away, since most breakdowns lead to further destruction of the greenhouse.
Greenhouse inspection and repair
Cleaning a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall
After the garden is harvested, the harvest is harvested, and pickles and preserves are lined up in dense rows on the pantry shelves, you want to enjoy the fruits of your labors. However, it’s too early to rest, because you need to prepare the greenhouse for the winter.
Scheduled repairs and maintenance of the greenhouse
Planned work is carried out annually, at the beginning and end summer season. The list of works may vary and depend on the condition of the greenhouse. Sometimes during the process of scheduled repairs hidden defects are discovered, in which case they are also eliminated.
Cleaning the greenhouse
Preventative maintenance traditionally begins with wet cleaning. Washing is important not only for disinfecting and cleaning the greenhouse - after removing dirt, defects in the frame coating may appear that require repair. In addition, cracks and cloudiness are better visible on washed polycarbonate, and it is easier to assess the degree of its transparency.
Cleaning the greenhouse before inspection
The greenhouse is washed inside and out using a medium-pressure hose, and in the presence of heavy contamination, using a soft sponge or rag made of nonwoven fabric and not aggressive detergents. Thoroughly wash the polycarbonate itself, the joints between it and the frame, and the places where the elements are attached. After washing, open the doors to the greenhouse and dry it well.
Note! It is better to wash the greenhouse in calm weather - in strong winds wet surface The dust will settle quickly.
Inspection of foundation, frame and covering
The inspection begins after the greenhouse has completely dried in good daylight and pay attention to:
- clouding and yellowing of polycarbonate;
- cracks, punctures, dents in the coating;
- polycarbonate fastening strength;
- water and dirt in internal cavities;
- pockets of peeling paint on the frame;
- traces of corrosion on metal parts;
- pockets of mold and mildew on wood;
- softening of wood areas;
- overall stability of the greenhouse;
- cracks in the foundation.
All these damages require repair and sometimes replacement. structural elements greenhouses. The urgency of implementation depends on the type of fault and time of detection. Thus, pockets of corrosion or rotting of the frame can be left until spring - in cold weather these processes proceed quite slowly. It is also best to replace polycarbonate in case of clouding in the spring.
Cracks in the foundation and instability of the greenhouse must be eliminated before the onset of frost and snowfall. Water that gets into the cracks will freeze and expand, causing them to enlarge and possibly destroy the foundation. If there is general instability or softening of the frame wood under the weight of snow, the greenhouse may collapse.
Small cracks in the foundation may increase over the winter
Pulling screws
Even properly fastened self-tapping screws weaken over time, and the mobility of polycarbonate increases. This may cause it to deform during strong winds. Pull the screws through with a screwdriver, simultaneously removing any dirt and dust that has gotten under them.
The degree of tightening should be such that the polycarbonate is firmly held in place, but does not bend under the washer. If the self-tapping screw turns and does not hold well, it is replaced with fasteners with a larger length or diameter.
Renewal of protective coating
Greenhouses made of polycarbonate can be either metal or wooden frame. These materials must be covered with a protective coating - in conditions high humidity metal rusts and wood rots.
The greenhouse frame can be made from wooden slats, metal and plastic pipes, reinforced iron or metal profile
For metal, nitro enamels are used over a layer of primer; for wood, paint or an antiseptic is used. Over time, the coating layer may be damaged, especially often in the areas where elements adjoin and fasten. There is another weak point on the metal frame - welds. Corrosion is possible on them even under a layer of paint.
Alkyd enamel Nitroenamel NTs-132P
Coating restoration sequence
Step 1. The polycarbonate at the work site is temporarily removed or insulated with film, cardboard, and glued to it with tape. Clean areas with poor coating condition with a spatula, sandpaper or sander down to the base.
Polycarbonate is removed before painting the greenhouse
Step 2. Metal is treated with an anti-corrosion compound, wood with an antiseptic. Dry the frame for the time indicated on the packaging of the product.
Step 3. A layer of protective coating is applied, similar to how the greenhouse frame is painted. For metal, weather-resistant enamels, including hammer enamels, are used. For wood - enamel for exterior use or latex-based impregnation.
Painting the greenhouse frame
Antiseptic “Senezh Bio”
Protective texture coating for wood
Primer enamel for rust
Universal enamel for wood and metal
Step 4. Dry the paint, remove the protective film from the polycarbonate or fix it in place. Ventilate the greenhouse until the smell disappears. After this, the greenhouse is ready for use.
After painting, the polycarbonate is fixed in place
Note! Polycarbonate is not resistant to some types of solvents, so all cleaning and painting products must be used very carefully!
Checking the strength and stability of the structure
The strength of the structure is checked by a physical method - by resting alternately on the ends of the greenhouse, they try to swing it in different directions. If the greenhouse moves easily, it is necessary to tighten the bolts of the frame and secure it to the foundation.
Checking the strength of the frame
The greenhouse is also checked for level. If there is a strong deviation of the vertical planes, the greenhouse may collapse under the weight of snow. In this case, the greenhouse is straightened and additional ties made of wire or wooden planks are installed diagonally along the walls.
Additional ties in the greenhouse
Note! In a properly installed greenhouse, both diagonals of each wall should be equal.
Strengthening the greenhouse for the winter
Mandatory measure for northern regions with a large snow load, especially when installing the greenhouse on summer cottage when regular monitoring of the condition is not possible. The vaults of arched greenhouses are usually strengthened - they are most prone to deformation under the weight of snow.
To strengthen it, T-shaped supports are placed under the ridge of the greenhouse. wooden beams or thick board. For the greenhouse standard sizes 3x4 m or 3x6 m, three supports are enough - at the ends of the greenhouse and in the center. For longer structures, their number must be increased.
Strengthening the greenhouse for the winter
Note! Do not drive the posts too tightly between the ground and the frame! When freezing, the soil may swell, the stand will rise and bend the greenhouse upward.
Repair of greenhouse elements
Repairs are usually considered urgent work; if they are not done on time, the damage increases and the operation of the greenhouse becomes impossible. If defects are corrected in a timely manner, repair costs can be significantly reduced.
Full or partial replacement polycarbonate
Partial replacement is performed when individual sections of polycarbonate are damaged. They are cut out sharp knife along the lines of the frame, the sections are insulated with special tape. A part is cut out from a new piece of polycarbonate according to the size of the damaged area removed and connected to the existing sheets using a connecting profile.
Connecting polycarbonate sheets using a profile
Complete replacement of polycarbonate may be necessary in several cases:
- in case of clouding and yellowing of sheets, due to improper installation or operation, as well as poor-quality material;
- with large area faults and cracks;
- in case of multiple minor damage, for example from heavy hail.
Replacing low-quality polycarbonate
When completely replacing, the polycarbonate sheets are removed and new ones are attached in their place using conventional technology. In this case, it is better to fasten it through existing holes in the frame using self-tapping screws with threads of a larger diameter. If this is not possible, all holes in the metal frame are sealed with sealant. Otherwise, moisture will get into them and corrosion will begin.
Note! Yellowing of polycarbonate is possible if it is mounted incorrectly - with the UV protective layer facing down. If the transparency of the sheets has decreased slightly, it is permissible to remove the polycarbonate and fix it correctly. This will stop further clouding.
This coating will definitely have to be replaced
Sealing cracks and punctures
Cracks and small punctures in polycarbonate can be repaired with transparent silicone sealant. To do this, water and dust are removed from the cavities, the edges are cleared of burrs, and sealant is carefully introduced into each hole using a mounting gun.
Sealing punctures with sealant
It is necessary to fill all damaged polycarbonate honeycombs with sealant to create sealed chambers. You should not smear excess sealant over the surface of the sheet; it is better to wait until it dries and carefully cut it off with a sharp knife.
Large longitudinal cracks can be glued together with a special sealing tape on both sides or secured using a special connecting profile. Transverse cracks are connected in a similar way, having previously sealed the internal cavities.
Sealing tape for polycarbonate
Blowing out internal cavities from water and dust
When the internal honeycombs of polycarbonate are filled with condensate and dust, transparency decreases by 20-50%, which leads to a decrease in illumination in the greenhouse. This happens when installed incorrectly without using sealing tape and an end profile.
To clean internal cavities use compressed air- for example, from car compressor. The sheets are removed or the fastenings at the bottom of the arch are removed, and a stream of air is directed into each cavity until it is completely blown out.
After cleaning, the ends of the polycarbonate are glued with perforated sealing tape and an end profile is installed on them. Then the sheets are mounted in place.
Frame repair
Damage to the frame is possible due to severe corrosion or rotting, as well as under the influence of the weight of snow. In case of severe deformation, it is easier to disassemble the greenhouse and, having purchased new elements instead of damaged ones, reassemble it. If the deformation of the frame is insignificant, it can be repaired.
Fracture of the strut at the site of active corrosion
Bent parts metal frame removed, straightened, clamped in a vice, and then installed in place. In this case, touch-up paint may be necessary - if the metal is deformed protective covering usually cracks and peels. In case of severe corrosion, the damaged area is replaced or an additional stiffener is welded above and below the damaged area.
Metal frame repair
A wooden frame is repaired by replacing damaged parts or reinforcing them with a block, board or metal strip. After fixing, be sure to treat with an antiseptic.
Note! To avoid similar damage in the future, the weak points of the greenhouse are strengthened with the help of additional supports or jibs, and areas of corrosion are regularly treated with protective agents.
Foundation repair
Cracks found in the foundation are repaired cement mortar. To do this, take 1 part of Portland cement brand M400, 4 parts of sand, mix with water to form a thick solution. The edges of the cracks are cleaned to a solid base, moistened with water and sealed with mortar. For small cracks, epoxy glue can be used.
Sealing cracks in the foundation with epoxy resin
Extensive foundation damage can be repaired as follows.
Step 1. The fastening of the greenhouse to the foundation is unscrewed or weakened. The greenhouse is raised and placed on wooden blocks so as to provide access to the surface of the foundation. Weak and crumbling places in the foundation are removed, the side surface is cleaned of dirt using a metal brush.
Remove crumbling parts of the foundation
Step 2. Formwork is made from boards or panels around the foundation at a distance of 5-7 cm. The height of the formwork should be slightly higher than the upper plane of the foundation.
Formwork around the foundation
Step 3. The space between the formwork and the foundation is filled with M250 concrete, being careful not to fill the mounting holes. The concrete is punched to remove air bubbles.
Concrete for pouring the foundation
Step 4. Drying of concrete (as well as gaining operational strength) occurs within 3-4 weeks, but the formwork can be removed and a greenhouse can be placed on it in 2-3 days. By this time, the initial setting of the concrete will occur.
Greenhouse on a repaired foundation
Note! The foundation of the greenhouse can be made of timber. When it rots, the damaged beams are replaced with new ones, pre-impregnated with an antiseptic or waste oil.
Timely maintenance and repair of the greenhouse will extend its service life by 2-3 times, while the time and money spent on repairing damage will be minimal. At good care A polycarbonate greenhouse will serve you for at least 15 years, delighting you with an excellent harvest.
Repair of polycarbonate greenhouses - types of damage and solutions!
Find out how to repair polycarbonate greenhouses! Types of damage step by step instructions how to eliminate them, tips, photos + videos.
It is often necessary to make thicker ones from thin polycarbonate sheets, fix the plates together or supplement the fixation with fasteners. In such cases, polycarbonate glue is used. We will talk about its main characteristics in this article.
Types of adhesives and their features
Before choosing an adhesive composition for polycarbonate, you need to understand whether it should be one-component or two-component, and also decide on its purpose and characteristics.
If you need to glue simple elements, it is better to use an easy-to-use one-component adhesive. They can be used to glue polycarbonate to plastic, metal, rubber, etc. Bonding occurs quickly and for a long time. Moisture and temperature changes will not interfere with the strength of such a connection. It does not contain solvents.
If necessary, glue more complex designs It is recommended to use two-component adhesive. The strength of this composition and the reliability of the connection are at the highest level. 
Regarding the components on the basis of which the composition is produced, glue is distinguished:
- polyurethane;
- silicone;
- ethylene vinyl acetate;
- hot curing;
- acrylic foam.
Silicone glue should be used when creating complex and large structures. It is highly durable, withstands temperature changes well and does not affect the appearance of the product. But before applying it, the surface must be degreased with isopropyl alcohol or primed. For application, you can use a pouring tube, syringe or plastic bottle with an applicator. Often silicone glue is called ordinary sealant. The disadvantage of silicone glue is that it is not produced in a transparent form (only white, gray and black colors are available).
When gluing small products for which high strength is not a top priority, you can use hot-curing glue or ethylene vinyl acetate (has high molecular weight polymer compounds, is elastic and waterproof) glue. They are applied with special heat guns. Cellular polycarbonate can be glued using a sealing compound.
Polyurethane adhesive gives higher joint strength. They are great for gluing polycarbonate to aluminum, plastic or wood. For application, a pneumatic or mechanical gun is used, that is, this type of glue can be called difficult to use. Polyurethane adhesive is highly transparent.
Using Hot Curing Adhesive
On a note: Using a hot-melt gun with special glue sticks - great option for quick gluing of cast polycarbonate sheets.
The rods are melted and applied in doses. Thus, cast sheets are perfectly attached to rubber, glass, metal and other materials. You can buy any pistol suitable price. There are many of them on the market. Chinese products are the cheapest. More common brands cost more but are of high quality.
U modern models There are glue sprayers that can be used to glue large surfaces quickly and inexpensively.
When using a heat gun, the consumables are special rods that need to be selected relative to the model.
Household pistols require rods with a diameter of 7 and 11 mm. In industry, rods of greater thickness are used, up to 43 mm.
Usually the gun is sold complete with short rods (5 cm). Longer rods (20 cm or more) are sold separately.
In most cases, ethylene vinyl acetate rods are used. They are made of translucent, elastic and non-hygroscopic material and are designated as EVA.
In addition to translucent rods, matte and multi-colored ones are available.
This composition can be used to glue almost all materials, but they must first be cleaned and degreased.
The most reliable seam is obtained when using polyamide; it is designated RA. It is even more rigid, durable and melts better than ethylene vinyl acetate. This material can only be used for pistols with “hot mode”. It melts at a temperature of 150 degrees, while the melting point of ethylene vinyl acetate is almost half that. However, with high humidity, polyamide reduces the adhesive strength over time.
Cold cure adhesive
Modern one-component compositions produce a seam that is resistant to various influences. The appearance of the product does not deteriorate.
Based on popularity and quality, experts single out one-component formulations made in Germany. The most famous are Weiss (COSMO series) and RohmGmbH (ACRIFIX series). German Cosmofen products are also quite common.
Thanks to the availability large number models, it is possible to select a composition with the desired parameters regarding transparency, curing speed and degree of viscosity.
All types of such compositions have the following properties:
- ensuring high reliability of the seam;
- maintaining temperatures over a wide range;
- moisture resistance;
- preservation of qualities under ultraviolet rays.
Quite popular is the one-component composition Acrifix 192, which contains no solvent. This composition has excellent characteristics regarding its operation.
Acrifix 116,117,118 adhesive does not contain dichloroethane, as does Acrifix 192. However, it is produced on a solvent basis. It adheres slightly less well than the polymerizing compound and can have a negative effect on the surface of the polycarbonate.
What components are present in polymer adhesives?
Various compositions for gluing polycarbonate differ in the following characteristics:
- How easy it is to use.
- Viscosity degree.
- Fast and strong bonding.
- Transparency.
- Withstands temperature fluctuations.
- Waterproof.
- Resistance to physical impacts.
Glue that can only be used for polycarbonate is not produced. For this purpose, construction adhesive for plastic and other polymers is used. When choosing a more suitable composition, you need to make sure that it has a long-lasting effect and that there is no risk of damage to the appearance of the structure.
For polycarbonate, single-component and multi-component adhesives are used with a base of silicone polyamides, ethylene vinyl acetate or polyurethane.
Some adhesives used for other materials may not be suitable for monolithic or layered polycarbonate.
Polycarbonate is resistant to mechanical stress and temperature changes, but certain chemical elements may have an adverse effect on him.
You should not use compounds containing alkalis and solvents for gluing polycarbonate.
What is not suitable for fixing polycarbonate?
As noted earlier, for polycarbonate you should not use compounds based on alkali and solvents. Due to their high activity, they are able to destroy the structure of the material. After such gluing, the material may darken, and bubbles and cracks may also appear on it after some time.
Molded plastic cannot be glued with solvent-based compounds, as they contribute to its cracking.
Compositions independently obtained from a mixture of polycarbonate and solvent are capable of holding the surface together, thereby forming a rough seam that can come apart under the influence of strong mechanical loads.
Also not allowed for wide application and a composition containing dichloroethane solvent. This substance is very harmful to human health, as it has carcinogenic properties. This glue can only be used for production purposes.
How to glue polycarbonate to polycarbonate and other materials?
To secure flat polycarbonate to other materials, use double-sided adhesive tape. The 3M company produces a sample of type 4830, which has excellent adhesion due to the presence of acrylic adhesive in it.
Before using the tape, you need to thoroughly clean the surface to be glued and degrease it.
To glue polycarbonate to polycarbonate, in the case of small structures and cast material, you can use a one-component adhesive. The best glue hot hardening in this case can be called a polyamide-based composition. As for cold-curing compositions, the guarantee of their reliability lies in the worldwide reputation of the manufacturing companies.
What if the design involves a large load during operation?
If the structure requires high strength during operation, it is better to use silicone or polyurethane glue.
To use two-component polyurethane glue, you will need a gun and replacement cartridges. The seam will be optically transparent, and the gluing will be strong.
Silicone adhesive is also very effective, holding cast polycarbonate sheets well even under heavy loads. The market leader is silicone adhesive Q3-7098 from the English company DowCorning Ltd. Chinese Silliconemastic glue also produces good results (there is no need to pre-prime the surface, but the glue does not transmit light well).
To the famous transparent adhesives relate:
- one-component adhesive Kosmopur K1 based on polyurethane;
- two-component compositions Acrifix 190 and Cosmoplast 460;
- Chinese adhesives HE 17017, HE 1908 from Engineering Chemical Ltd.
Compositions of several components are also used. This is Acrifix 5R 0194. It contains 5 components, the base is methyl methacrylate. Even when gluing thick sheets of material with it, the seams will be almost invisible.
Before gluing a polycarbonate structure, it is necessary to perform preparatory procedures that will significantly affect the strength and durability of the result:
- First of all, you will need to treat the material with isopropyl alcohol to make its surface clean and grease-free.
- Then, using a suitable device (gun, syringe, tube with nozzle), glue is applied.
- If the adhesive contains a solvent, then no amount of degreasing can guarantee a strong connection. This element should not be in glue.
Conclusion
When choosing what to glue polycarbonate with, you should not skimp on the composition. A few hundred rubles saved may not work in your favor.
Typically the cost of glue is approximately as follows:
- A standard tube of silicone glue (310 grams) costs about 900 rubles.
- Hot-curing composition - 500 rubles (excluding the cost of the gun).
- Two-component composition - about 300 rubles.
Thus, the cost of high-quality glue cannot be called critical. After all, using them will result in a durable and reliable structure.
Video on the topic
Today, polycarbonate is a fairly common building material. As practice shows, polymer material is actively used for the construction of greenhouses. Feature finished products is high level strength, wide product range, attractive appearance and light weight. It often happens that during the installation process the wrong thickness of the polymer sheets was chosen, as a result of which, under the weight of snow from a heavy load, a process of deformation and damage occurred. As a result, it becomes necessary to seal the polycarbonate on the greenhouse. It is important to take into account the fact that on the market of goods and services you can find monolithic and cellular products for sale for the construction of a greenhouse. Since each option has certain advantages, disadvantages and features, before gluing the polymer, you should first carefully study all the available nuances.
Features of gluing polycarbonate
Before you start gluing polycarbonate at home, you need to take into account some nuances that can have a significant impact on the final result. In this case, it is recommended to take into account exactly what materials need to be glued - polymer products or it will be a combination with other materials. You will need to choose the right adhesive composition.
If you choose an adhesive composition based on a solvent for installation work, then during operation you will see that damage appears on the greenhouse at the gluing points, which over time becomes more noticeable and much larger. Such phenomena appear literally 6-12 months after installation work.
Advice! Many experts argue that to improve the quality of the connection, it is necessary to choose an adhesive that does not contain a solvent.
How to glue polycarbonate
As practice shows, transparent adhesive for polycarbonate can be found on sale in the goods and services market. Before deciding what kind of glue to seal the greenhouse with, it is recommended to first take into account what type of product was used during construction - cellular or monolithic. This is what will depend on further choice. Many experts recommend taking into account the fact that each construction product has certain characteristics, which is why it is necessary to take into account everything possible nuances before installation.
How to glue cellular polycarbonate
Cell phone use polymer material for the construction of greenhouses has a number of advantages, among which the following points can be highlighted:
- high level of reliability;
- structural stability;
- long service life;
- reasonable cost of finished products.
In order to get a greenhouse with an attractive appearance, it is recommended to use a technology that requires gluing the polymer so that a single structure is obtained. For these purposes, it is best to use panels and special glue.
To glue polymer products in a greenhouse, you do not need to have any special tools or skills. To glue monolithic polycarbonate together, it will be enough to apply a special composition to the surface of the polymer, and then press polymer sheets until the composition hardens. It is important to take into account the fact that the hardening process of the adhesive composition is quite fast.
Important! For a more comfortable installation, you can use a glue gun.
How to glue monolithic polycarbonate
As practice shows, monolithic building polymer is actively used for the construction of greenhouses Not big size. A special feature in this case is the high level of strength and reliability. If necessary, monolithic polycarbonate can be glued using the following adhesives:
- polyurethane;
- silicone;
- hot curing.
If damage appears on individual elements or on small-sized products, then in this case for greenhouses you can use special guns for which hot-curing glue is suitable.
When it is planned to erect a large structure that will bear a large load, excellent choice will be silicone glue. Silicone adhesive for greenhouses made of polymer products can be used even without preliminary preparation surfaces with further application of a primer. If necessary, you can not only seal the greenhouse, but also combine polymer products with other types of materials, for example, glass, plastic or metal.
Attention! When choosing an adhesive for monolithic polycarbonate, many experts recommend giving preference to compositions based on polymer substances, thanks to which you can achieve excellent results.
How to glue polycarbonate together
It is important to take into account the fact that an excellent result can only be achieved if you take a responsible approach not only to the choice of glue, but also to the preparation process. Only this approach will significantly increase the service life of the greenhouse. Before gluing monolithic polycarbonate or cellular polycarbonate, many experts recommend pre-treating the surface, so that you will not have to be distracted during the process of gluing polymers.
It is necessary to prepare in advance all the tools that will be needed for the work. It is recommended to use a special gun for glue, which will greatly facilitate the application of the adhesive to the greenhouse. In addition, as a result of careful application of the composition, it is possible to achieve more High Quality finished design.
How to seal polycarbonate in a greenhouse if a hole has formed
Glue the polycarbonate if oblong cracks appear on it, if necessary, you can use regular tape. If a small crack or gap appears on the greenhouse, you can stick plastic film or tape to the surface, and then iron it thoroughly. The edges of the tape must be ironed so that its ends adhere as tightly as possible to the surface of the polymer building material. Thanks to this approach, it is possible to prevent moisture from entering under the material. After the tape is either polyethylene film glued, you need to use a regular hairdryer and warm the material well. In addition, it is important to understand that this repair is temporary.
Important! Cracks and crevices in polycarbonate can appear due to temperature fluctuations, mechanical damage and natural phenomena.
In order to glue polycarbonate in a greenhouse, it is recommended to follow some tips:
- You can glue not only polycarbonate together, but also insert other materials, for example, plastic, metal, glass;
- glue should be chosen depending on the requirements for the appearance of the finished structure;
- for polycarbonate, you should not choose an adhesive that contains solvents;
- for convenience, it is best to use a special gun;
- for large greenhouses, which will account for high load, it is recommended to use silicone glue.
In the case when a flat polymer was used to construct the greenhouse construction material, then glue it to flat surface possible with double-sided adhesive tape.
Will need
- A piece of polycarbonate for the patch.
- Silicone plumbing sealant (preferably transparent!)
- Wood screws (4 pcs.)
- Phillips screwdriver.
- Stationery knife.
- Alcohol or solvent.
Filling up a hole in a greenhouse
So, we take the prepared piece of polypropylene and use a utility knife to cut out a square patch with a margin of about three centimeters more from the edges of the hole.
Next, clean both surfaces to be glued with alcohol or solvent. Apply plumbing sealant continuously around the entire perimeter of the hole.
We apply the patch to the hole in accordance with the strips available in the polycarbonate and the wall of the greenhouse and simply screw it to the wall of the greenhouse!
The length of the screws does not really matter, since we will unscrew them later. Now we wait for the time indicated on the label of the plumbing sealant for complete hardening (in our case, gluing). After the sealant firmly sticks the patch to the wall of the greenhouse, apply sealant to the joint between the patch and the greenhouse along the entire perimeter of the patch, unscrew the screws and, again, seal the screw holes with sealant.
Now no rain will penetrate inside the greenhouse through this structure, and precious heat will not escape in the fall or in early spring. If the holes are small, up to five millimeters, you can simply cover them with the same sealant. You can also coat the joints between sheets of polypropylene, in any case, it definitely won’t make things worse. Why did I decide to use plumbing sealant and not some kind of glue? Because plumbing sealant is made and intended for use in aggressive environments, such as sewers. This means that in simple, natural conditions it will not only cope with loads perfectly, but will also last much longer.
