How to feed actinidia during fruit ripening. Actinidia. Growing in cold climates (Actinidia - the berry of the future). Actinidia's relationship to environmental conditions
Actinidia is winter- and frost-resistant. Actinidia is photophilous (it grows in the shade, but does not bear fruit). Actinidia is a dioecious plant (plants are planted in pairs to obtain a harvest). Actinidia grows on any soil and is not picky about its composition. Actinidia is moisture-loving ( root system located at the depth of the arable layer, so it is afraid of drying out). Actinidia is a liana-like shrub and therefore requires support.
Actinidia is a perennial climbing liana-like shrub of several species (the most common are Actinidia arguta and Actinidia kolomikta).
Actinidia is a wonderful decoration for a gazebo, hedge, or arch. The shoots do not have aerial roots, the vines are completely harmless to buildings, so they can be planted near the house and allowed to climb along the walls.
The first harvest of actinidia occurs 3–4 years after planting; maximum yields are obtained from actinidia aged from 7 to 50 years.
Actinidia has a climbing stem that climbs up trees and wraps around them. Actinidia leaves are leathery, finely toothed at the edges.
Actinidia is a dioecious plant, but there are specimens with bisexual flowers. As a dioecious plant, it requires the replanting of individual male specimens. Before flowering, it is impossible to determine the sex of actinidia by external signs.
actinidia color
Actinidia flowers are white, less often golden yellow or reddish. The fruit is a berry with small seeds.
All types of actinidia are beautiful ornamental plants with the qualities of good fruit plant, which annually produces sweet-sour, tender and aromatic fruits.
The disadvantages of actinidia are the non-simultaneous ripening of berries, their easy shedding and poor transportability.
Actinidia fruits in raw and processed form are nutritious, have excellent taste and aroma, and contain a large amount of vitamin C (more than in black currant and lemon).
Actinidia fruits make good jam; they are dried and frozen.
The root system of actinidia is delicate and vulnerable; it dries out very quickly. outdoors(when planting dried roots, actinidia gets sick for a long time and does not take root well). The root system of actinidia is located at the depth of the arable layer, so deep tillage should not be done.
For the first few years after planting, young actinidia seedlings should be protected from animals (including cats, dogs) so that they do not eat the shoots (they are attracted by the smell). For protection, young plants are protected with a metal mesh.
Choosing a place to plant actinidia.
Since actinidia is good ornamental plant, it is used for decorative landscaping of houses, terraces, and estates.
These plants are shade-tolerant, but can bear fruit well only with sufficient light. In strong shade, actinidia sheds its leaves; young shoots begin to form not from below, but higher up (where there is more sun), so the vine is exposed from below.
It is preferable to place the vines against a wall facing east or west, in partial shade or where direct sunlight reaches at least half the day.
Actinidia planted on the northern side of the building begin to bear fruit later - when their shoots reach a height where nothing blocks the sunlight.
When growing actinidia south of a building or in an open space, the plants do not get sunburn on leaves, shoots or fruits. However, with this placement it is important to prevent overheating of the top layer of soil with the root system. This is quite achievable through timely mulching of the soil and watering, and regular spraying of foliage in the morning and evening hours.
Actinidia is unpretentious to soil composition, but develops and grows well on cultivated, fertilized and moist loamy and sandy loam soils.
Actinidia planting time.
The best planting time is spring or early summer. But you can plant it in the fall, 2-3 weeks before the first frost.
Requirements for seedlings.
two-year-old actinidia seedling
When buying a seedling, pay attention not to the height of the shoots, but to the quality of the root system, which must be powerful and healthy (must have 2-3 main branches at least 25-30 cm long). The roots must be fresh and moist; if the roots are dry and weathered, the seedling may take root, but will grow slowly. 
The bark on the trunk and branches of the seedling should not be wrinkled (otherwise the seedling was dug up a long time ago and would have had time to dry out). By pinching off a small piece of bark, you can find out whether the seedling is alive (if the green bottom is exposed, then the seedling is alive, if it is brown, then it is dead).
When purchasing a seedling in the fall, the existing leaves on the branches are carefully removed without damaging the buds on the leaf axils.
When transporting, the roots of the purchased seedling are wrapped in a damp cloth and placed in a plastic bag.
If it is found that the seedlings are very dry, they are immersed in water for 2-3 days (no more).
If it is not possible to immediately plant the purchased seedling, then it is buried in a shaded place in the country house. Dig a shallow elongated hole sloping to the south. The seedling is placed in the hole at an angle. They fall asleep so that both the roots and half the length of the shoots are underground. Water generously. In this form, seedlings can be stored for 3-4 weeks without compromising quality.
Preparing actinidia seedlings for planting.
It is necessary to remove broken, diseased, dried roots. The same must be done with the above-ground part of the seedling. Before planting, to avoid drying out, dip the roots well in a clay mash.
Planting actinidia.
On permanent place 1-3 year old vines are planted, because older plants tolerate transplantation very poorly.
Actinidia is planted in single plants or in rows with a row spacing of 3 meters and at a distance of 1.5-2 meters between seedlings. It is advisable to place the rows from north to south, then in summer the bushes are evenly illuminated.
The size (width and depth) of the planting hole should be such that the roots are placed in it correctly, according to their shape.
The planting hole is dug with a depth of 30-50 cm, a width of 40 cm in diameter, depending on the size of the root system of the seedling.
Drainage made of pebbles, gravel, broken brick or expanded clay is laid at the bottom in a layer of 10-15 cm.
The following is added to each planting hole:
- a bucket of humus;
- 200 g superphosphate;
- 50 g ammonium nitrate;
- half a liter jar of a glass of wood ash.
All fertilizers are mixed well with regular soil so that the hole is filled 1/3 of the volume. Then add a layer ordinary land up to half the volume of the pit. A bucket of water is poured out. When the water is absorbed, a seedling is placed on top, in the middle of the hole. The seedling is planted so that the root collar is at ground level. Next, straighten the roots so that voids do not form. The hole is finally filled with ordinary soil (from the top layer).
They trample the ground a little. Again, water and mulch the soil with humus, peat or other organic matter (grass, hay, straw) in a layer of 5-10 cm.
The top of the planted seedling is pinched.
Actinidia care.
Basic care (fertilization, loosening, control of weeds, pests and diseases) is carried out as for all fruit and berry plants.
In the first year of planting, in dry weather, actinidia seedlings are mulched several times during the summer to maintain loose moisture around them. surface layer soil. In the morning and evening, the foliage is sprayed and, if necessary, shaded from the hot weather. sun rays, especially the first 2 years of life on the site. Remove weeds regularly. The soil around is loosened carefully, taking into account that the densely branched root system of actinidia lies at a depth of up to 30 cm.
For the winter, the seedlings are covered with fallen leaves (layer 10-15 cm).
Caring for fruit-bearing vines.
Every year in the spring, immediately after the snow melts, the soil around the actinidia is loosened and covered with humus, compost, straw or sawdust that has been lying under open air at least a year. Several times during the summer, add soil under the bush to prevent the root collar from being exposed. In autumn, the soil around the plants is not dug up, but carefully loosened to a depth of 3-7 cm.
Actinidia need to be watered frequently, as the soil around the root collar must be constantly moist. Leaves also require a lot of moisture. For the growth and normal development of vines, high air humidity is required. Therefore, in dry weather, actinidia are sprayed. It is advisable to do this in the morning and evening.
Winter shelter for actinidia.
Young actinidia seedlings, in the first 3-4 years of life (before fruiting begins), are covered for the winter with peat, humus, and fallen leaves.
It is advisable to spread rodent poison under the winter shelter. Mice do not eat actinidia shoots, but make nests in them.
The cover from the vine is usually removed in early April.
An adult, fruiting actinidia no longer requires such shelter.
Feeding actinidia.
For each adult bush (from the moment of fruiting, in the 3-4th year after planting) the following is added annually:
- 30 g ammonium nitrate;
- Bucket of compost or humus.
At the beginning of summer, annually, under each adult bush, pour 10 liters of fresh mullein diluted with water (1:5) or a bucket of diluted bird droppings(1:10). These fertilizing can be replaced by adding it to the top layer of Agrolife soil.
At the end of summer, annually, 0.5 liters of wood ash (instead of potassium fertilizers) and 100 g of superphosphate (after fruiting) are applied to each adult bush.
Actinidia harvest.
Actinidia bears fruit every year. During the period of full fruiting average harvest from an adult vine it weighs from 10 kg.
Actinidia berries begin to ripen in late summer - early autumn. They ripen at the same time (within three weeks).
Ripe fruits become darker green or slightly yellowish, some become translucent, so that small seeds can be seen through the walls of the fruit.
Berries in the shade ripen much earlier than in the sun.
Some vines ripe berries do not crumble. However, often ripened actinidia fruits crumble and break if they fall on a hard surface.
Actinidia berries ripen in the shade, in a ventilated area, for a week. You can’t dry washed berries or dry them in direct sunlight.
Actinidia berries can be consumed fresh; you can make jam, jam, juice, wine, compote, and jelly from them. You can wilt the fruits. The crumbled soft actinidia berries are good to use for wine fermentation and making wine.
“Raw” jam” is the most valuable product of actinidia processing. Ripe fruits are peeled from the stems, crushed with a wooden pestle and sugar is added (for 1 kg of berries - 1 kg of sugar). After 3-4 hours, when the sugar has dissolved, pour the jam into jars (under nylon lids) and store in the refrigerator until spring. This jam is used as a component for compotes and as a pie filling.
Actinidia varieties:
Actinidia arguta.
The largest of the actinidia. A powerful vine with woody rope-stems up to 30 m long and 8-10 cm thick. It twines around trees. In the absence of large trees, actinidia is transferred from one tree to another or spreads along the ground, forming dense thickets. Actinidia arguta is a dioecious plant. Blooms from late June to late July. The flowers are greenish-white. It begins to bear fruit, reaching a height of 6-8 m.
Actinidia kolomikta.
The fruits are round, blunt, laterally compressed, greenish, juicy, sweet, tender, with a strong pineapple aroma, weighing from 1.5 to 10 g, ripening in September-October. The plant is winter-hardy, productive, sometimes produces up to 30 kg of fruit from one vine.
A tree-like vine-like climbing plant, reaching a height of 7 m. In open places, it spreads along the ground and forms thickets. It grows slower than actinidia arguta, but is more frost-resistant.
The fruits are dark green, blunt-conical, sweet, with delicate aromatic pulp. Productivity is up to 5-7 kg per bush.
Actinidia pineapple.
A winter-hardy variety, it begins to bear fruit in the 7th year, the yield is up to 5 kg per bush. The bushes are widely spreading, reaching 6.5 m in height. The shoots are smooth, brown, with brown spots. The leaves are oval-pointed, double-serrate.
The fruits are laterally flattened, dark green, juicy, sweet with a slight acidity, tasty, with a strong pineapple aroma, weighing 2-3 g, ripen at the same time (August-September), slightly crumble, stored no more than 3-4 days; suitable for consumption in fresh and processed form.
Actinidia pests and diseases.
Actinidia are harmed by leaf spot caused by the fungus Philoxicta actinidia. Other pathogens of spotting have also been identified - ramularia and discosis.
A leaf disease in the form of a powdery cobweb coating was noted on actinidia arguta. The damage caused by these diseases is similar; they are expressed mainly in leaf spotting.
Actinidia fruits are affected by fruit rot, as well as gray and green mold. The fruits of Actinidia arguta are most severely affected by rot.
Among insects, leaf beetles cause significant damage to Actinidia kolomikta. At the beginning of the growing season, they eat away the swelling buds, and from June the beetle larvae eat the pulp of the leaves. When beetles multiply en masse, only veins remain from the leaves.
The leaves of Actinidia kolomikta are also damaged by the caterpillars of the moth moth. Unlike the leaf beetle, they gnaw large holes on the leaves. Minor damage to actinidia by lacewings, bark beetles and other pests was noted.
Disease control measures include spraying bushes and mechanical collection of damaged plant parts (leaves, twigs, fruits). For the purpose of prevention, 1% is used for spraying. Bordeaux mixture and 0.4% cuprozan. The first time is treated after the buds emerge from the bark, then the treatment is repeated after 10-15 days.
Plants are treated against powdery mildew with ground sulfur and 0.5% soda ash solution; the treatment is repeated after 10 days. In the fight against Fusarium wilt of seedlings, you should first of all disinfect the seeds by dusting with granosan and disinfect the boxes, boxes and frames of greenhouses with a 5% formaldehyde solution.
All actinidia berries are similar in shape and taste, but may differ in color and sugar content. But the berries of all types of actinidia are very useful in terms of vitamin C and microelements.
But they like to consume them not only for their vitamin content, but also for their resemblance to exotic ones. Therefore, they are consumed fresh, but when big harvest The preparations are made using the cold method.
Actinidia kolomikta berries
Kiwi fruits are emerald green, oblong, large, the size of a large gooseberry and weighing up to 4g. Kiwi berries are very sweet with a sugar content of 4.4%, acidity 2%, with a pleasant pineapple smell, although they resemble kiwi in appearance, and ripen in August. In the nature of the Far East, actinidia fruits are more similar in taste to gooseberries, which is why local residents call them Far Eastern gooseberries.
Actinidia arguta
Homeland: Far East of our country, China, Korea, Japan. A powerful tall vine with a thick trunk and shoots up to 20 meters, frost-resistant. In nature, such a liana lives up to 100 years. It blooms in early summer, the flowers are large, kiwi fruits up to 3 cm long ripen in September, and have a pronounced pineapple taste. Actinidia arguta is characterized by high productivity; in some years, up to 50 kg of fruit can be collected from one vine. The berries of Actinidia argut are dark green in color with a strong and delicate aroma, have a pleasant sweetish taste, sometimes a cloyingly sweet taste. They contain up to 12% -16% sugar with an acidity of 3%. Dried berries of actinidia argut resemble raisins.
Actinidia polygamy
Bright when mature orange color. They are also sweet, they contain up to 8-9% sugar with an acidity of only 1.5-1.6%. But it is only so sweet when ripe. The unripe fruits of Actinidia polygamy have a bitter taste and a burning sensation like hot pepper. The superiority over the fruits of other types of actinidia is that the fruits of polygamy contain 1.5 times more carotene than black currants, in addition they contain a large amount of vitamin C and microelements.
Actinidia quinensis
Chinese actinidia (quinensis) or kiwi, cultivated plant China, from there it came to us. It has pubescent leaves and fruits. The fruits are pubescent, green, and large in appearance and resemble kiwi, but the taste is the same as that of Actinidia kolomikta. When eating, the fruits must be peeled.
Preparation of actinidia berries
Actinidia fruits do not ripen simultaneously, which allows them to be consumed fresh longer. But on the other hand, this also creates inconvenience when collecting these fruits, and rapid falling of the fruits is also possible. Also, the fruits cannot be stored for long periods of time and quickly deteriorate. Therefore, it is necessary to collect fruits in a timely manner, choosing ripe ones from the vines and immediately processing them or consuming them fresh. Of course, fresh actinidia berries will bring more benefits, but if there are too many of them, then you can make preparations from actinidia.
Actinidia is harvested only in a cold way without heat treatment in order to preserve as many vitamins and nutrients as possible.
Actinidia juice
The juice from actinidia is extracted in a cold way; you can use a small press to squeeze it out. The berries are very juicy, so the juice is easily released and there is almost no juice left. The juice must be pasteurized enamel dishes under the lid, heating to 80 degrees. Quickly pour into prepared jars and seal tightly .
Actinidia sprinkled with sugar
To prepare actinidia berries for future use, you need to wash and dry them, then put them in a jar, sprinkling them with sugar at a ratio of 1:1. Keep refrigerated.
Cold actinidia jam
You can make cold jam from actinidia fruits. To do this, the berries must be crushed and mixed with sugar at a ratio of 1:1.5. Place in jars and seal with paper. Keep refrigerated.
Actinidia jam
Actinidia berries are very juicy, so the jam will be larger and will resemble “five-minute jam” or compote. The berries must be washed and placed in a bowl for making jam, covered with sugar. Put 500g of sugar per kilogram of berries, let stand until the juice is released. Then bring to a boil and cook for 15 minutes. Pour hot jam into prepared jars and seal.
Actinidia belongs to the genus of tree vines and the Actinidia family. Under natural conditions, this vine can be found in the Himalayas, in South-East Asia and on Far East. China is considered to be the birthplace of actinidia. As many people know, the closest relative of actinidia is kiwi, but kiwi does not grow here, it freezes, which cannot be said about actinidia. At one time, around 1910, Ivan Vladimirovich Michurin literally fell in love with actinidia. He was engaged in this culture all his life and praised actinidia so much that he considered crops such as gooseberries and grapes to be secondary and requiring replacement with actinidia.
Actinidia is currently being grown for the most part in private sector gardens. There are no industrial plantations dedicated to this crop in Russia. In culture you can often find species of actinidia - arguta, polygam, Giraldi and kolomikta, as well as hybrid. Most of the space is occupied by Actinidia kolomikta, because this type It is distinguished by high winter hardiness and relative undemandingness to growing conditions; actinidia arguta and polygamous are also grown in the center of Russia.
The main differences between actinidia species
Actinidia kolomikta (Actinidia kolomikta) is a vine up to ten meters long with a trunk diameter of only 2-3 cm. The variegation of leaves is clearly visible: the tip of the leaf changes color from snow-white at the beginning of summer to bright crimson at the end. The flowers of this species are very fragrant. Fruit weight up to 6 g.
Actinidia acute, or Actinidia arguta (Actinidia arguta) is the most powerful vine, it can grow up to three tens of meters. In perennial plants wildlife The trunk diameter reaches 20 cm. The plant is dioecious (male and female individuals grow separately). The fruits weigh 6 g and ripen towards the end of September.
Actinidia polygamous (Actinidia polygama) – reaches a length of five meters. The trunk diameter is 2-3 cm. The fruit weight is up to 3 g. It is often confused with Actinidia kolomikta, but polygamy is less winter-hardy.
Actinidia Giraldi (Actinidia arguta var. giraldii) - similar to actinidia arguta, but has larger and more palatable fruits. It is extremely difficult to find these plants in nature.
Actinidia purpurea (Actinidia arguta var. purpurea) - named for the purple color of the fruit. The main drawback is that it is practically not winter-hardy. The fruits are dark burgundy, weighing about 5.0 g.
Actinidia Hybrid is a hybrid of Arguta and Actinidia purpurea. The result was a winter-hardy hybrid with large fruits.
Currently, actinidia: Giraldi, purple and hybrid in plant taxonomy are usually considered as subspecies of Actinidia arguta
Description of actinidia
As we already know, actinidia is a liana; it has bizarre leaf blades, usually thin and leathery, and very interestingly colored. At the beginning of summer, about a third of the leaf at the tip has White color, she seems to be immersed in white paint, during the season this place turns pink. Scientists have found that in this way actinidia attracts pollinators to its flowers, which, by the way, have a unique, simply magical aroma (especially in actinidia kolomikta), some reminiscent of the smell of jasmine, but only “sweeter”. The stems and shoots of actinidia are quite thin, they require mandatory support, otherwise they will spread along the ground, thicken and lose their decorative look. The buds of actinidia are interesting; they are hidden in the scars of the leaf blades and are turned downwards with their tips.
Boy or girl?
Actinidia is a dioecious plant, that is, one plant can have both only male flowers and only female ones, like sea buckthorn flowers. Therefore, in order to get a harvest, representatives of both sexes of actinidia must be planted on the site. However, there are individuals that have both male and female flowers, but it’s not worth the risk; it’s better to choose planting material trust the professionals. You can only understand what gender the actinidia seedling is in front of you during the flowering period by carefully examining the flowers: female specimens usually do not have stamens, and male specimens do not have pistils. There are, however, female flowers that have stamens, but they are poorly developed and have sterile (non-viable) pollen, while the pistil is much better developed.
Actinidia flowers form in the axils of leaf blades. During the flowering period, it is not always possible to notice the flowers; they seem to be hidden under the leaves. Sometimes, in order to see a flower or take a spectacular shot, you need to lift part of the vine. The flowering of actinidia is quite long, but it depends on the weather: if it is hot, then the flowers please the eye for no more than a week, if it is cool, then the flowering is brighter, the aroma is strong, and it lasts 10-12 days. After pollination, the ovary begins to develop, which ultimately turns into small actinidia fruits of an elongated shape and most often of a rich green color.
Actinidia fruits ripen towards the end of summer - beginning of autumn; when fully ripe, they soften and can be eaten. The taste resembles something between kiwi and strawberry, sometimes there is a pronounced strawberry aroma. Each berry is a storehouse of vitamins and minerals, but there is especially a lot of ascorbic acid in the fruits of actinidia - up to 3000 mg%, which is close in value to rose hips.
Planting actinidia
Actinidia can be planted both in spring and autumn, but given the southern roots of this plant, it is preferable to do this in the spring. For planting, we recommend choosing actinidia seedlings from the nursery that are at least two years old; the fact is that one-year-olds take root rather poorly and the older the seedling, the better. Ideally, it is better to buy a seedling with a closed root system that is three or four years old; in this case, the chance that it will take root is maximum.
After you have bought an actinidia seedling, you need to choose a good place for planting it. It is better to choose the most open and well-lit place, level, without depressions and depressions, with a level groundwater no closer than one and a half meters to the soil surface. Ideally, the actinidia plant will be protected on the north side by a house wall or fence. Of course, you need to choose a place with the possibility of installing supports in the future, that is, there should be quite a lot of free space. Taking into account the advice of professionals, you should not plant actinidia near large trees, such as apple trees, because the powerful root system of the tree will consume most of the moisture and nutrients from the soil and oppress the vine. Actinidia can be planted next to shrubs; it will not harm anyone.
As for the type of soil, the ideal option is, of course, loose, nutritious soil with plenty of moisture and a neutral reaction.
Spring planting of actinidia
So, spring is the best time to plant actinidia. This must be done before the buds open, otherwise the seedling may not take root. Before planting, the soil in the selected area must be dug up with a shovel full of weeds and 2-3 kg of well-rotted manure or humus, 250-300 g of wood ash and a tablespoon of nitroammophoska incorporated into the soil. When the soil is ready, you can start digging planting holes. You need to dig them in accordance with the planting pattern, and it is determined by what species you are planting. If you place actinidia arguta on the site, a very vigorous vine of no modest size, then between the holes you can leave one and a half or better two meters of free space, and if you plant actinidia kolomikta (polygam, Giraldi, hybrid), which grows less actively than arguta, then You can leave the meter. If you decide to wrap a vine around a gazebo, a house wall or a fence, then you can plant the plants a little more often, leaving 75-80 cm between them. You should not plant more often, because it will be difficult to care for the plants; the vines can intertwine, shading each other friend.
Before planting, prepare actinidia seedlings, inspect them carefully, and if you notice broken shoots, remove them. Dip the roots into a mixture of clay and nutrient soil in equal parts. Next, when the locations of future holes are marked, you can start digging them. The size of the holes usually depends on the volume of the root system of the seedling; if the actinidia seedling is small and has few roots, then there is no need to dig a large hole at all. The main thing is to dig it in such a size that the roots fit freely in the hole, there is room left for drainage from expanded clay, pebbles or broken bricks at the base, in a layer of a couple of centimeters, and for a couple of kilograms of a mixture of nutritious soil and humus in equal parts, with the addition of 45-50 g of ammonium nitrate, 120-130 g of superphosphate and 50-100 g of wood ash. Next, you can pour about half a bucket of water into the hole and place the seedling on nutritious and moist soil, carefully straightening the roots. All that remains is to fill the hole with soil, making sure that the actinidia seedling (more precisely, its root collar) is at the same depth as before it grew in the nursery, compact the soil, pour a bucket of water and mulch the surface with a 1-centimeter layer of humus.
After planting for about a month, you need to shade the seedling from direct sunlight and protect it from cats; they love the aroma of actinidia and can literally eat the seedling.
Autumn planting of actinidia
The subtleties of planting actinidia here are the same as in spring time, the main thing is to have time to place the seedling on the site before the onset of frost, 15-20 days.
Support for actinidia
When an actinidia seedling has lived on the site for two or three seasons, it will definitely need a support; of course, you can install it right away or plant the seedling with the expectation that the vine will cling to an existing support in the form of a house wall, fence, etc. If we talk about an artificial support, then it can be absolutely any shape - such as an arch or a pergola, or just a pair of pillars with three or four rows of wire stretched between them, onto which the vines will gradually be thrown and tied to it with ordinary twine.
Actinidia care
Caring for actinidia is not very difficult. At their core, these are standard processes: loosening the soil, removing weeds, watering, fertilizing, pruning, covering, harvesting.
Loosening the soil
It is advisable to loosen the soil under actinidia in the first 3-4 years after planting the seedling, then the vine will grow and the need for loosening will disappear by itself. At the initial stage, you need to loosen the soil after each heavy rain or watering to prevent the formation of a crust.
Weed control
You need to fight weeds for four or five years after planting; later on, you can simply mow down the weeds in the bush area.
Watering actinidia
Actinidia loves moisture, but moderate moisture; under no circumstances should the soil be over-moistened. Do not allow the soil to dry out excessively. It is advisable to water during drought, pouring 2-3 buckets of water under the plant. Actinidia also loves to bathe, about once a week you can water it well in the evening by sprinkling, wetting as much of the leaf surface as possible. The main thing is to try not to water during the flowering period, this can worsen pollination.
Feeding actinidia
Feeding actinidia not only allows the shoots to grow and develop normally, but also increases the yield, as well as the drought resistance and winter hardiness of the plant. In the spring, it is advisable to feed actinidia with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. You can use both nitroammophoska (a tablespoon for each plant) and individual elements - 25-30 g of nitrogen, 18-25 g of phosphorus and 12-20 g of potassium. It is advisable to carry out the second feeding as soon as the ovaries begin to form; Nitrogen fertilizers are needed here in minimal quantities, 16-19 g is enough, but more phosphorus and potassium can be used - 20-22 g for each plant. The last time in the season, actinidia can be fed after harvesting, this is approximately mid-September. Nitrogen fertilizers You can’t add it during this period; you can add a tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium salt under each bush. It is better to apply fertilizers dissolved in water; if applied dry, then first loosen the soil and water it with water, and then mulch with humus in a 1-centimeter layer.
Actinidia pruning
Actinidia grows quite actively, especially in nutritious soil, so it can begin to thicken. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to periodically prune actinidia, which is appropriate to begin from the fourth year of the seedling’s life on the site. Actinidia pruning is best done in the autumn, after leaf fall. There are no clear instructions here, you just need to visually inspect the trellis, find out which shoots compete with each other, interfere with each other, thicken each other. If you notice dry shoots, they should be cut out immediately. If you see immature shoots with green tips, it is better to pinch them, so they may have time to ripen.
As soon as the vine reaches the age of 12-13 years, you can begin rejuvenating pruning. To do this, it is advisable to trim the actinidia heavily, leaving only parts of the growths 30-40 cm long from the ground. Anti-aging pruning of this degree of force should only be carried out late autumn.
Harvesting actinidia
If you do everything correctly, then actinidia will begin to produce fruit from the age of three, sometimes it can bear fruit a year later. Of course, at first it will be just a few berries, then the yields will begin to increase and will reach their maximum by the age of six or seven years, and with systematic anti-aging pruning, the vine can bear fruit for several decades.
On good, nutritious soil, with plenty of moisture and good care actinidia will produce up to sixty kilograms of delicious fruits from one bush. The fruits ripen at different times; sometimes, in order to collect the entire harvest, it is necessary to carry out up to five harvests. You shouldn’t rush and pick the first ripened actinidia berries, you can wait a little and harvest in two or three steps, but you shouldn’t delay it too much; overripe berries may begin to crumble. The first fruits of early varieties actinidia usually ripen in mid-August; the latter can be found on vines at the end of September. Immediately after harvesting the entire harvest, the vine can be fed; either wood ash in the amount of 250-300 g per bush or a tablespoon of potassium salt and superphosphate per bush is suitable for this.
Preparing actinidia for winter
Actinidia kolomikta is a completely winter-hardy crop, in southern regions it tolerates winters without problems, but if you grow another species or live in more northern regions, you will have to cover the actinidia. To do this, around the end of October, when stable cool weather has established, the vine must be removed from the supports and carefully laid on the ground. After this, the vines need to be covered with dry leaves or spruce branches. To cover actinidia, you can use any covering material such as lutrasil. The main thing is to provide protection from mice; for these purposes, you need to place poisoned baits under the shelter or next to it. It will be possible to remove the shelter in the spring, when the temperature is stable above zero, in the center of Russia - this is the month of April.
Reproduction of actinidia
If you want to propagate a varietal plant while preserving all its cultural characteristics, then you must use only vegetative propagation methods. This can be propagation by layering (usually arcuate), as well as by green or lignified cuttings.
Reproduction of actinidia by arcuate layering
This method of propagating actinidia is quite simple and guarantees the receipt of a small amount of but high-quality planting material. They begin propagation in this way in the spring, immediately after the leaf blades bloom. You need to select the longest, youngest and well-developed actinidia shoot(s), then tilt it with the crown to the soil and pin it with a wooden or metal corner. The attachment site itself must be covered with soil, a layer of 12-14 cm, and then watered abundantly (3-5 liters of water), but the resulting mound from the shoot must be mulched, either with sawdust or with humus. The main thing is that the top of the shoot itself is not covered with soil. Next, during the growing season, you need to water the soil near the actinidia bush and moisten the mulch, as well as fight weeds. The cuttings, which will definitely appear from the mother shoot that we have bent down, must be separated, trying not to damage the young roots, and planted in a permanent place. This is best done in the spring.
Propagation of actinidia by green cuttings
This method of propagating actinidia is the most effective in terms of obtaining planting material, but it requires the presence of a greenhouse covered with film. Usually, young growths are cut and cut into cuttings 12-15 cm long around mid-June, although the timing, depending on the region, may shift in one direction or another. It is advisable to cut actinidia cuttings in cloudy weather and in the first half of the day, when they are saturated with moisture. Try to cut the cuttings so that each has three buds and a pair of internodes. Ideally, the lower cut should pass directly under the bud and be oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees, but the upper one is better made above the bud a couple of centimeters; it can be either straight or oblique. After this, you need to remove all the leaves except a couple at the top or one if they are very large. You don't have to remove the leaves, but cut them in half. When actinidia cuttings are ready for planting, they can either be soaked in a solution of any growth stimulant (kornevin and the like), or planted in a greenhouse without soaking. In the greenhouse by that time, you need to prepare the soil, which should consist of equal parts of humus, turf soil and river sand. At the base of this mixture you need to put drainage, in the form of expanded clay, a couple of centimeters thick. You need to pour river sand 2-3 cm thick on top of the mixture and moisten it well. It is into this mixture that the actinidia cuttings will be buried. All that remains is to water the soil well and plant the cuttings, deepening them to 2-2.5 cm according to the 5x5 cm pattern. Next, you will need to monitor the soil moisture in the greenhouse; it will have to be watered frequently: in hot weather 6-7 times a day, and in cloudy weather – 4-5 times a day. It's great if you have the opportunity to install automatic watering in a greenhouse, if not, then it is advisable to water from a watering can with a nozzle that has the smallest holes, and use settled water room temperature. Usually, by autumn, a full-fledged root system is formed on actinidia cuttings, but it is not advisable to dig them out of the greenhouse in the fall. The greenhouse needs to be opened, the already independent plants need to be insulated with dry leaves and left like that until spring. In the spring, actinidia cuttings with roots should be carefully dug up and planted in a bed with loose and nutritious soil according to the 10x10 cm scheme for one more season, for growing, after which two-year-old actinidia seedlings can be planted in a permanent place.
Reproduction of actinidia by lignified cuttings
This method is used less frequently because lignified cuttings root less well, but it also gives a positive result. Harvesting lignified Actinidia cuttings, unlike green ones, should be done not at the beginning of summer, but almost at the end of autumn. After harvesting cuttings 12-15 cm long, like green ones, they must be placed vertically in boxes and covered with river sand. Cuttings should be stored at a low plus temperature of +2-4 degrees. If there is nowhere to store it, actinidia cuttings can be cut before planting, that is, in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, but strictly before the start of the growing season. Next, in the spring, the cuttings should be planted in a greenhouse with the same mixture as for green cuttings, but they should be watered much less frequently - usually once a day. In the fall, actinidia cuttings should form roots; it is also better to dig them up and plant them in a garden bed for growing in the spring.
Actinidia varieties
In the State Register on this moment There are 44 varieties of this wonderful crop. First of all, it is worth paying attention to the new products, these are actinidia cultivars: Dachnaya (2016), Kivaldi (2016), Red Maiden (2017), Monty S (2016), Solnechny (2016), Hayward Russian (2016) and Allison (2016) .
Let's look at these varieties in a little more detail.
Actinidia variety “Dachnaya”- obtained from actinidia arguta, it is very winter-hardy and does not require shelter in the center of Russia. The leaf blades are not variegated. The weight of the fruit is about 9.7 g, the maximum reaches 13.6 g. The fruits are green in color, elliptical with medium-thick skin. The taste is pleasant, but the acidity is noticeable, so the taster rating is 4.7 points. The fruits practically do not fall off. Resistant to pests and diseases.
Actinidia variety "Kivaldi"» - more suitable for the North Caucasus region. Has no variegation. Requires pollinators. The fruits are very large, up to 101 grams, dark brown in color, elliptical in shape, densely pubescent and have a thin skin. The taste is pleasant, assessed by tasters at 4.8 points. Alas, it does not have winter hardiness.
Actinidia variety "Red Maiden"- obtained from actinidia polygamous. Strong variegation of leaf blades. The fruits weigh up to 5.7 g, their color is orange, their shape is cylindrical, the skin of the fruit is thin. The taste has no signs of acid, but is somewhat bland, which is why the tasting score is 4.6 points. The variety does not require shelter and is resistant to pests and diseases.
Actinidia variety "Monty S"- this variety is slightly winter-hardy and is more suitable for the North Caucasus region. The fruits reach a weight of 85 g, they are brown in color and obovate in shape, heavily pubescent and thin skin. There is no fruit shedding. The taste is very good - up to 4.9 points. Pollinator varieties are required.
Actinidia variety "Sunny"- a variety from actinidia arguta, it is winter-hardy enough to do without shelter in the center of Russia. It is a good pollinator and does not produce fruit itself. There is no variegation. Quite winter-hardy. Does not get sick and is not affected by pests.
Actinidia variety "Hayward Russian"- intended for warm regions of the North Caucasus. There is no variegation. The fruits weigh up to 135 g, are brown in color, elliptical in shape, pubescent and have a thin skin. The taste is pleasant, although the acidity is noticeable, and is rated by tasters at 4.7 points. A pollinating variety is required.
Actinidia variety "Ellison"- suitable for warm regions of the country. There is no variegation. The fruits weigh up to 66 g, are brown in color, pubescent and have a thin skin. The taste is pleasant, with the aroma of strawberries, tasting score 4.7 points. A pollinating variety is required.
The ripening of Actinidia kolomikta fruits in the Far East occurs at the end of August, and some fruits ripen in early October.
When using fruits en masse, they can be harvested in one or two steps, after a week or 9-10 days after the first fruits ripen.
Harvested fruits, which have not yet reached the full stage of maturity, as mentioned above, are capable of ripening when stored. In this case, not quite ripe fruits are scattered in a thin layer in a room protected from sunlight.
Ripe fruits are sent for processing. It is characteristic that, despite the sufficient acidity of the fruits, the acidic properties in the products of their processing are very little expressed, and the sensation of organic acids is almost not perceived during a taste test.
Therefore, as a starting material for some types of processing, it is possible to use not only actinidia fruits, but also add highly acidic raw materials growing in the same areas (such as lemongrass fruits, etc.). When using actinidia fruits for processing, I.V. Michurin recommended making marshmallows from them together with pumpkin and lemongrass.
In order to preserve actinidia fruits on long time they are subjected to natural or artificial fire drying. At solar drying fruits undergo significant oxidation of ascorbic acid (vitamin C); however, the taste of the product is high.
Pre-treatment of fruits with sulfur dioxide before drying is usually not used. Meanwhile, the use of this method could significantly contribute to the preservation of vitamin C.
The local population carries out fire drying in slightly cooled ovens (temperature 50-60°). The use of fruit and vegetable dryers will undoubtedly contribute to obtaining a more valuable product.
Thanks to good qualities, the high vitamin activity of actinidia kolomikta berries can be widely used in the vitamin industry for the production of concentrated products rich in vitamin C, in the confectionery - for the production of a large group of products, in fruit and berry winemaking, the drying industry, etc.
Vitamin C is well preserved in actinidia fruit processing products (in appropriate sealed containers).
The fruits of Actinidia arguta are an excellent raw material for fruit and berry winemaking; The wines made from them have exceptionally good qualities.
They can also be used in boiling and cooking, to obtain dried fruits, candied fruits, compotes, jelly, and also boiled with honey, etc.
Actinidia is frost-resistant - tolerates frosts up to 45°; propagates well by cuttings, which are prepared in autumn or summer (July); When propagated by seeds, the plant begins to bear fruit in the 6-7th year.
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Actinidia kolomikta is a plant that can be used not only as decorative element for your garden, but also as a fruit and berry crop. Michurin himself noted the high quality of the fruits of this plant and foreshadowed that it was very likely that the time would come when actinidia would completely replace grapes. First of all, it owes such laudatory ode to its high winter hardiness and good tolerance of our climate. In this article you can find the information you are interested in about this plant, the principles of planting it and caring for it.
Description and winter hardiness
Type of this plant the best way can be described as a woody vine. The trunk of actinidia can reach 5 cm in diameter, multiple shoots of a brown hue extend from it, smooth to the touch, with curly or straight branches, capable of climbing to a height of up to 15 meters. The presence of small lentils is noted on young shoots. When confronted with an obstacle, the shoots wrap around it counterclockwise.
Did you know? The Greek name of this plant comes from the word “aktividio”, which literally translates as “ray”. This name is probably due to the radial arrangement of the ovary columns.
The main feature of the leaves of this plant is their constantly changing color: at first they have a bronze tint, which turns into green over time; just before flowering begins, the ends of the leaves become bright white, and at the end this process become pink, crimson or red. Each leaf is located on petioles 3-7 cm long, has the shape of an ellipse or egg, the leaf itself is quite thin, has a small number of hairs along the veins, and is smooth underneath. 
The flowers have a pleasant, delicate aroma, most often white in color, actinomorphic, located on thin stalks, unisexual, drooping, sometimes bisexual specimens are found. Each flower includes five petals and the same number of sepals. The calyx of the flower remains with the fruit after it dries. Blossom this plant begins at the age of five, usually the period of active flowering occurs in June-July and lasts 20-25 days.
The fruits are dark green berries, with big amount longitudinal stripes of an even darker color than the main one. They have a somewhat elongated, elliptical shape, sometimes they can be round. 
If you pick them when ripe, they will surprise you with their sweetness, mild taste and spicy aroma. Inside each berry there is a fairly large number of small seeds (up to 90 pieces) of a dark brown hue. The fruiting period begins at the age of nine.
Did you know? Actinidia kolomikta is a long-lived plant. Under favorable environmental conditions, its lifespan and active fruiting can reach up to 80-100 years.
Varieties of actinidia kolomikta
This plant can be cultivated by a gardener on a plot for two main purposes: as a fruit and berry crop and as one of the elements landscape design. Breeders have bred many different varieties this woody vine, you can find a small list of the most popular of them below.
- "Magpie". Produces bushes of medium size. The ripening period is average. It is characterized by extremely high winter hardiness. The average weight of the fruit is 2.5-3 g, the taste is very sweet, and the berries have a specific actinidic smell. In the center of the berry there is a core, occupying up to 1/3 of the entire diameter of the berry;
- "Queen of the Garden" Bred at the Moscow VNIIR. Is different early fruit ripening, has high resistance to diseases and pests, winter hardiness is average. The fruits have cylindrical shape, compressed from the sides, olive in color, have a sweet and sour taste, the aroma has pineapple notes. The average weight of the fetus is 3.4 g.
- "Large-fruited." Early ripening. The main distinguishing feature is the extremely rapid growth and early onset of fruiting. The average weight of the berries is 4.4 g. The fruits are cylindrical, olive in color, with a kiwi aroma and a sweet and sour taste. They tend to fall off when fully ripe. Refers to self-fertile;
- "Commander". It has moderate winter hardiness and high resistance to pests and diseases. It is a male pollinator and therefore does not produce fruit. Flowers are collected in inflorescences of 1-3 each. There are no ovaries on flowers;
Actinidia male and female: differences
It must be said right away that almost all varieties of this plant for normal fruiting and adequate flowering processes require planting actinidia of different sexes next to each other or grafting branches with different sexes onto one bush. Sometimes it happens that your vines bloom consistently every year, but no berries are formed on time or after it. Most likely, this phenomenon is due to the fact that actinidia of only one sex grow on your site.
VIDEO: HOW TO DISTINGUISH FEMALE ACTINIDIA FROM MALE ACTINIDIA Here's how to distinguish female plants of this species from male ones:
- on male plants, flowers are most often collected in inflorescences of 3 pieces;
- there are no fruit embryos in the center of male flowers;
- a large number of stamens can be found in a male flower;
- during the flowering period, many fallen flowers can be found under the male plant;
- flowers on female plants are often placed one at a time on a long stalk;
- in the center of the flowers female plants a clear ovary of the future fetus is determined;
- The flowers of female plants have fewer stamens, and they are much shorter than those of male plants.
Important! Upon landing male plants try to position them in relation to the female ones so that they are on the windward side. To improve pollination processes, you can also install a hive with bees next to them.
How to choose seedlings when purchasing
It is best to purchase seedlings of these plants in specialized stores, nurseries or breeding centers, since when buying young plants at spontaneous markets or second-hand from sellers, you risk purchasing a variety that is not the one that was originally declared, a variety with unsatisfactory organoleptic properties, and possibly even that instead of actinidia they will sell you a completely different plant.
First of all, when choosing a seedling, it is recommended to carefully examine its root for damage, both mechanically (by human hands) and natural (various fungal infections, damp areas, frostbite, etc.). The root of a normal actinidia seedling should, in its overall size, proportionally correspond to the trunk (that is, be neither thinner nor thicker than it).
Next, you should pay attention to the condition of the trunk and leaves. If you see traces of obvious painful manifestations on them (white, gray or black spots, holes, bitten spots, etc.), then you should not purchase such a seedling. In addition, you should not buy a seedling whose top has clearly been cut. Seedlings that have not yet reached 4 years of age are suitable for planting in the ground. 
Landing rules
In general, planting actinidia is no different from planting any other fruit and berry bush, however, due to some biological features of its structure, there are aspects that should be mentioned separately. Below we will discuss such nuances in more detail.
Optimal timing
The most optimal time spring is the best time for planting actinidia, but planting in autumn term, best 2-3 weeks before the first frost. If you decide to plant actinidia in autumn period, then it will be necessary to properly mulch the bushes with peat or rotted compost.
Where to plant on the site
This plant does not tolerate stagnant water quite well, so you should not plant it near drains and places where groundwater accumulates, but at the same time, planting it under the wall of a house or stone fence will help her better cope with harsh winter conditions and increase her chances of successfully surviving this period. 
Important! As already mentioned, actinidia is a climbing vine, so it would not be amiss to prepare in advance for it a certain number of supports along which it will crawl upward. The number and height of supports directly determines how high its yield will be.
This plant shows the best growth and development indicators in partial shade, this is primarily due to the fact that under natural conditions it mainly grows in sparse forests. Open places and constant exposure to direct sunlight have a detrimental effect on this plant.
Soils with an alkaline composition are very unsuitable for it, but at the same time it is quite undemanding in terms of the content of minerals and minerals in the soil. organic fertilizers and takes root well and shows significant growth rates in soils poor in nitrogen and phosphorus. It is undesirable to plant this plant in soils with a heavy, clayey composition.
Step by step planting process
An approximate planting algorithm is as follows:
- First, you need to prepare planting holes measuring 50x50 cm. The distance between the bushes with the bush planting method should be 1.5-2 meters, and with the vertical method - at least 50 centimeters.
- A drainage layer is placed at the bottom of each hole, preferably broken brick, shell rock or crushed stone.
- Next, a layer of chernozem, 10-12 kg of humus, 150-200 g and several glasses are added to each hole.
- A layer of fertilizer is sprinkled with a thin layer of soil in order to protect young roots from possible chemical burns.
- After this, the seedling is placed in the hole so that the root system is completely expanded in it, and they gradually begin to sprinkle it with earth, compacting it.
- Next, water the planted bush (1-1.5 buckets of water) and mulch the ground around it with peat, sand or fallen leaves.
VIDEO: HOW TO PLANT ACTINIDIUM CORRECTLY
Important! If you are replanting actinidia from a pot of soil, then try not to shake off the earthen lump from it, as this can significantly damage the delicate root system of the plant.
How to care for actinidia
Caring for actinidia does not require any special skills from the gardener, however, even in such a simple task there are some subtleties that are worth focusing your attention on.
Watering
These bushes do not require particularly active watering, however, in extremely dry and hot weather, it is recommended to water them at least once a week at the rate of 1 bucket of water for each plant. In dry air and a long absence of rain, it is recommended to spray the plants with water from a spray bottle in the evening.
This plant, as already mentioned, is extremely sensitive to excessive waterlogging, so it is recommended to check the soil for moisture before each planned watering. This can be done using a simple stick: dig up the soil in the tree trunk circle to a depth of 3-5 centimeters and see if the plant needs additional moisture.
Mulching
To better retain moisture, reduce the frequency of watering, and also to provide the plant with more comfortable conditions for wintering, it is recommended to mulch the tree trunk with sand or rotted leaves. Every few months the layer of mulch must be renewed, and once every six months it must be completely changed.
Support is one of the very useful devices, which will serve you especially well if you grow actinidia for fruit production. The fact is that on supports the vine has the possibility of almost unlimited upward growth; accordingly, the area where ovaries are likely to appear on plants increases, which, in turn, leads to an increase in productivity.
For these vines, supports 2-2.5 meters high are best suited; to increase the usable area, it is recommended to bend them with a canopy at an angle convenient for you at the height of human height. Thus, the stems of the plant, when they reach the highest point, will not stop growing, but will continue to curl along the support, but at an angle to the vertical support.
Pruning is a fairly important aspect of caring for this plant, as it sets the further vector of development of the entire vine and helps provide you with an abundant and high-quality harvest. It should be noted that spring pruning for some reasons (actinidia “cries” very actively, which is why it can even die) is extremely undesirable. 
It is best to prune during active flowering or late autumn, after all the foliage has completely fallen.
First of all, it is worth removing all thin, dried and weak shoots. In addition, it is recommended to cut off all young shoots that have not yet become woody, since they can significantly reduce the quality of wintering of your vine.
In addition to the already mentioned pruning and mandatory mulching trunk circle, it is also recommended to remove the plant from the support and place it under polyethylene or a canvas bag. However, if the winters in your area are not particularly severe and are quite snowy, you can do without this.
VIDEO: SHELTER OF ACTINIDIA FOR WINTER So, we hope that this article helped you find answers to many questions regarding Actinidia kolomikta. Treat all areas of your garden with love and respect, carefully monitor the condition of each plant, follow all recommendations for caring for them, and then you and your family will definitely receive a generous reward in the form of a bountiful harvest!
