What kind of soil does indoor violet like? We select the correct soil for violets. Ready-made soil mixtures and their composition

Substrate is the basis on which plants are grown. For example, vermiculite or perlite are substrates for rooting cuttings. The substrate may include various components: high-moor peat, low-lying peat, sand, vermiculite, perlite, sphagnum moss, coconut substrate, humus, black soil, charcoal and etc.

Earth, earth mixture or soil - all pure components or mixtures thereof, which include natural organic earths. Their main property is a rich supply of nutrients, which ensures the growth of plants planted in them without additional feeding.

Landless mixture - made on the basis of peat or coconut soil with the addition of inert cultivators (perlite, vermiculite). Distinctive feature- practically does not contain the nutrients necessary for growth, but allows you to specifically control nutrition with the help of fertilizing. The big advantage of the soilless mixture is the absence of phytopathogens.

Substrate requirements: - lightness; - moisture capacity; - breathability; - sufficient phosphorus and potassium content, as well as essential microelements; - nitrogen content in sufficient quantities, but not in excess; - acidity close to normal pH 5.5-6.5; - the presence of living and favorable microflora that helps fight painful bacteria; - absence of pests and their larvae;

One of the important indicators of soil favourability is air capacity. Air capacity is the ability of soil to hold a certain amount of air. It depends on the porosity and moisture of the soil. The higher the porosity and the lower the humidity, the greater the air capacity. The more structured the soil, the more large pores free of water it contains, and, therefore, the higher its moisture capacity. Sprayed, structureless soils have little air.

It is necessary to buy soil containing reddish-brown, coarse-fibered high-moor peat. It is not recommended to take “Polish” violet substrate, Saintpaulia “Biotech”, Saintpaulia “Garden of Miracles”, For violets “Vegetable Garden” - the soil is made on the basis of lowland peat, it is too black, it cakes. ASB GREENWORLD, Germany - this soil can be called the most optimal for violets

But based on some of them, a suitable substrate can be prepared. To grow violets, soil mixtures are usually used containing the violets necessary for growth and flowering. minerals. In any case, at a suitable time purchased soil you will need to add raising agents such as vermiculite, charcoal, polystyrene foam, perlite and sphagnum moss. They absorb moisture well and then gradually release it. Better yet, prepare your own mixture.

In general, two approaches to compiling soil mixtures should be distinguished. The first is the use of an extremely simple peat substrate with rippers. In this case, constant feeding is necessary. The second is the preparation of a complex balanced mixture containing nutrients required for growth over a period of time. The care of the plant will depend on which option you choose.

The soil for violets should be airy and retain moisture well. Perlite is an essential component for growing violets, since it provides the roots with air access, while vermiculite makes the soil mixture loose and absorbs moisture. The peculiarity of sphagnum moss is that it absorbs moisture and gradually releases it to the roots of the plant. It is useful to add a small amount of finely crushed charcoal. The amount of rippers in the composition of the soil for violets should be 30-50% of the total volume.

Violet prefers loose, neutral soils with pH 5.5-6.5. The optimal substrate for its cultivation is high-moor peat, but not in its pure form, but with adjusted acidity. Since in its pure form peat is an acidic environment, which is not suitable for the development of violets. If you replant violets twice a year, changing the soil, the plant will receive enough nutrients from the new soil and no additional feeding is required.

It is not the finished substrate that should be subjected to heat treatment, but those of its components that may contain eggs and larvae of pests - leaf, turf, manure humus, all purchased substrates, as well as soil whose origin is unknown to you. There is no need to process those components that can be destroyed during processing (pure peat and peat soils, washed sand, perlite, vermiculite, moss, fertilizers)..

The most common methods of cultivating land are dressing chemicals, calcination in the oven at high temperature, pouring boiling water and steaming over boiling water in the microwave. Place a small amount of soil in a regular plastic bag. And in the microwave. On one side 3 minutes, on the other 3 minutes. That's all. No bugs, no spiders, no worms or mushrooms.

All living things, as is known, consist of at least 70% water, which is also heated inside insects. At this temperature, no one can survive inside the body. The temperature is lethal for animals, but not for the decomposition of nitrogen and microelements. The soil is perfectly sterilized within 7 minutes at a power of 800 W. But it is better to do two sessions of 2-3 minutes each. And the soil does not deteriorate, and does not smell, and what kind of thing, but sterilization.

Steam in an old saucepan and a colander that fits into it without gaps, a lid that closes it tightly. Place a double layer of gauze in a colander and fill it with slightly moistened soil without compacting it. Cover the colander with a lid and place it on the pan so that the water in it does not reach the bottom of the colander by 3-4 cm. At least an hour should pass from the moment the water boils until the end of steaming. After the earth has completely cooled, you can add all the “clean” components to it - peat, various cultivators and fertilizers. In order to restore the microflora, you can use ready-made biological drugs, containing microflora beneficial to the soil, for example, Trichodermin, Glyokladin, Alirin-B, etc.

Sterile soil needs to be approached differently. It is empty in terms of vital population. And in nature, if emptiness occurs, it is for a very short time. So, you steamed, calcined or spilled the soil with potassium permanganate or fungicides, thus destroying everyone - both good and bad. After a few days, the first spores of fungi attacked from the air and bacterial cysts will begin to germinate in the soil. And here one person will take over, filling the entire soil space in a very short time. The ability to quickly reproduce in sterile conditions, the absence of competitors and a good food supply will make its population a leader.

Post-steaming toxicosis is eliminated by spilling the soil with the drug Trichodermin and others. These preparations contain billions of spores of soil “defenders” in one gram. We can recommend Fitolavin-300, which contains a phytobacteriomycin-producing strain. The microorganisms with which these preparations are saturated suppress the initial explosion in the number of leading populations after steaming, preventing the further activation of pathogenic flora.

A good prevention of rot is to spill the substrate with solutions of fungicidal and bactericidal preparations. The most commonly used - 3% solution hydrogen peroxide, solution furacilina light yellow color and pink-raspberry solution potassium permanganate. Fungus development or growing point rotting is less likely if you spill the substrate when preparing phytosporin or trichodermin. When cooking soil mixture You can use Fitosporin-M in powder form; this version is also commercially available. Apply 10 grams per approximately 6-7 liters of soil with thorough mixing.

A white coating on the surface of the soil in a pot can be caused by the development of fungal microflora from overwatering and to get rid of it, you need to water the plant only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried. Collect the top soil and sprinkle activated crushed carbon in the pot, this protects against rotting and mold growth. Mold, even with normal watering, in especially sad cases, grows and permeates the entire soil in the pot. Then you need to replant, completely change all the soil, use fungicides.

The Sciarides often annoy violet growers ( fungus gnat). These are small flies that fly around the outlet. Their larvae are dangerous - white worms 3-8 mm long with a dark head, damaging young roots and disturbing the soil structure. The drug Grom-2 helps here. Simply powder the soil when mixing. If you do this regularly, there will be no mosquitoes.

An example of the composition of soil for violets:

Greenword soil and Peat – 50%.

Perlite and Vermiculite – 20%.

Moss-Sphagnum or Coconut fiber – 20%.

Nutrient soil - 10% with the addition of crushed charcoal.

If necessary, a deoxidizer is added (dolomite flour or finely ground egg shells, or, in extreme cases, fluff lime). Number of components approx. For Saintpaulias different ages, different varieties different proportions are needed. So the soil for rooting leaves and children should contain more raising agents.

Since the materials are bulk, they can be measured with any container - you can take liter jar, and if you need a little substrate, you can take a glass or mug. In other words, for 1 cup of nutrient soil, add 3 cups of Greenword soil, 2 cups of peat, 1 cup of perlite, 1 cup of vermiculite, 1 cup of sphagnum moss, 1 cup of coconut fiber, plus crushed charcoal. Remove all large fractions from purchased substrates with your hands: lumps, unrotted plant residues, sticks.

The above recipe is just one of many possible ones; it is not at all necessary to copy it with all care. So feel free to use this recipe as a starting point for your own compound primer. All these components can be mixed and their shares and proportions in the mixture can be changed. Ready mix should turn out light, airy and fluffy, well permeable to water and air and so that didn’t track for as long as possible.

Storage option ready land: take a shoebox (you can take any lockable box), “dress” it in bags from the inside, and pour earth into it. Close the box with a lid. Store so that the soil does not dry out and at the same time there is access to air.

For wick irrigation a soilless peat-based mixture is required, with the addition of a large amount of rippers. This is necessary so that the roots do not get wet.

Continuation :

Violets - popular beautiful houseplants, the cultivation of which requires significant effort from their owner. In order for them to delight with their decorativeness, you need to create for them favorable microclimate and place in necessary conditions. This flower makes special demands on the soil.

Features of growing and caring for violets

The main conditions that need to be created for such flowers are warmth, bright light, high air humidity. They should be placed in a well-lit place with diffuse lighting and at the same time protected from sun rays. Daylight hours should be 13-14 hours. IN winter time additional lighting needs to be installed.

The optimal place for the flower to grow is north-eastern and north-western window sills. When grown on the south side, shading is needed.

Did you know?A collector from Odessa collected 3.5 thousand varieties of violets in his apartment, including those grown by astronauts in orbit. This is the largest collection in Europe. It takes a gardener 800 liters of water a week to water his flowers, and he spends $30–40 a month on lighting them.

The best decorativeness and stable growth are observed in those plants that are grown at temperatures of +20...+22°C. Violets cannot tolerate 3 mistakes in care:

  • excessive and frequent watering;
  • exposure to drafts;
  • severe drying out of the soil.

Therefore, the flower must be protected from these factors.

Watering should be moderate and must be carried out in a tray or using a wick method (connecting a pot with a violet and a container with water using a cord, through which water seeps). It is recommended to apply 1-2 moisturizers every 7 days.

For irrigation, use rainwater, filtered water, or water that has been left standing for 2 days. room temperature. After 30–40 minutes have passed after moistening, the remaining water in the pan must be drained. There is no need to allow it to stagnate - this increases the risk of root rotting.

The flower does not like spraying. To maintain the required high air humidity, at the level of 60–70%, you need to install a humidifier, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth, spray the air next to the flower so that drops do not fall on it, place the pot on a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay.

Important! It is not recommended to water the violet from above. Drops falling on leaves and stems can cause the development of burns and rot.

During the growing season, flowers need to be fed. This will help preserve the beauty of the leaves, achieve long-lasting and abundant flowering, bush health. At a young age, more nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied, at a mature age - potassium and phosphorus. Use liquid root baits designed specifically for violets.
Violets degenerate very quickly and are usually renewed every 2-3 years. Transplantation is carried out once a year using the transshipment method.

These flowers can grow in any pots - plastic or ceramic. But it is important to select them according to the size of the plant, because in fairly large containers they will refuse to bloom, and in small containers they will grow poorly. It is also important that the pot has drainage holes.

In specialized stores you can purchase special pots for violets - they provide a place for draining unnecessary water and special hole to supply moisture.

Required soil composition for violets

For normal growth and development of a flower, it needs a special soil - loose, light, with good air and water permeable properties. Its acidity level should be between 5.5–6.5 pH. Ignoring this indicator leads to the fact that the plant poorly absorbs nutrients from the soil and stops growing.

Changes in leaf color may also occur. Acidity is reduced by adding dolomite flour to the soil. Increase - by mixing peat.

The soil mixture for planting violets must include the following mandatory components:

  • nutrient soil;
  • fillers;
  • drainage.

Nutrient soil

basis soil mixture become:

  • leaf soil;
  • turf.

Leaf soil is collected under deciduous trees. Turf - in areas where perennial grasses grow. Soil should be taken from clean areas, away from landfills, garbage cans, and polluting enterprises.
Vermicompost and compost can also be considered as the main substrate.

Fillers

Fillers for soil for planting violets are:

  • coniferous soil - it is extracted from the lower soil layer in areas where conifers grow;
  • peat soil.

Moisture holders and leavening agents

The main mixture is supplemented with the following loosening components:

  • vermiculite;
  • perlite;
  • charcoal;
  • sand;
  • sphagnum moss;
  • coconut fiber.

Good drainage is important for violets. It is necessary to drain water, prevent its stagnation and the development of rot.

Drainage is made from:

  • expanded clay;
  • pebbles;
  • broken bricks;
  • coarse sand;
  • charcoal.

How to choose ready-made purchased soil

Soil for planting flowers can be purchased at a specialty store. On the package suitable soil indicated: “Saintpaulia”, “Violet”, “For sowing seeds and planting seedlings”.

The most popular manufacturers:

  • ASP GREENWORLD;
  • "Terra-vit";
  • "Academy of Growth";
  • "Bereginya."

The purchased substrate has one important advantage - it is already pickled and ready for planting. There are no bacteria, fungi, microbes or pests in it, so additional processing it does not need, it can only be doused with boiling water - while hand-made soil is subject to mandatory disinfection.

The disadvantage of this soil is that it is very light: when watering, all the water passes through it without stopping and settles at the bottom. Because of this, many gardeners prefer to supplement purchased soil with various additives.

One option: mix 5 liters of prepared soil with 0.5 liters of vermicompost, 0.5 liters of perlite, 0.5 liters of vermiculite and 0.5 liters of finely chopped sphagnum. Such soil will have all the necessary properties for comfortable violet growth.

Also, some gardeners buy a base for soil and add elements like the above to improve its characteristics. Usually the soil is taken from high-moor peat.

Did you know? Violet is valued for its delicate aroma. The violet scent is included in perfume compositions by famous perfume brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Hugo Boss, Elizabeth Arden, Gucci, Christian Dior.

How to make a substrate with your own hands at home

There are several recipes for making soil mixture for violets. Each violet owner can choose a ready-made one or create his own, combining the ingredients listed above. The main thing is that the end result is a loose, light, homogeneous substrate that can conduct air and water well to the root system.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with one of the most accessible recipes.

DIY soil mixture for violets: video

It will require:

  • light loose ready-made substrate on high-moor peat containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and microelements - 10 l;
  • crushed activated carbon - several tablets;
  • agroperlite - 1-2 pinches;
  • vermiculite - 1-2 pinches.

All ingredients are combined in one container and mixed well.

Important! When working with components, it is necessary to protect your hands with rubber gloves, and your respiratory tract with a respirator. Dust from agroperlite microparticles can settle in the lungs and cause serious harm to human health.

What fertilizers do violets need?

Both purchased and home-made soil must be fertilized before planting. Charcoal and ash are used for fertilizing. It is also recommended to add crushed eggshells as a source of calcium and potassium.

If the above elements are difficult to obtain, then you can purchase ready-made mineral supplements and complex fertilizers in the store.

Earth laying technology

Do-it-yourself soil must be disinfected - poured with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate or calcined in the oven (microwave) at a temperature of +90...+100°C.

After the soil has been disinfected or spilled with boiling water, it must be left for a month to restore its properties. Then they fertilize it and begin the process of placing it in a pot.
The laying technology is as follows:

  1. Place on the bottom drainage layer, which should occupy 1/3 of the height of the pot.
  2. Cover with a small layer of soil.
  3. Set violet roots.
  4. Cover with the remaining soil without compacting it.

When placing a flower in the ground, you must ensure that the growing point is not covered, the roots are not bent, and the lower leaves do not touch the ground. The first watering will need to be done after a week, and the first fertilizing will need to be done no earlier than 2 weeks later (if additional fertilizers were not applied during planting).

To summarize, we note that growing violets involves certain hassles. The most important thing is to choose for her right place With good lighting and soil recommended in composition, as well as ensure proper watering. But all the effort in care is more than compensated unique view bright and abundantly blooming violets.

As a child, I naively thought that for planting indoor flowers It’s enough just to collect soil in the garden, because there is nutritious black soil there. And to prevent scary worms (of which I was very afraid) from getting into the pot, I collected soil only in a molehill, since my mother assured me that the mole hunts for worms, so there are guaranteed to be none in its hole.

But later I realized that not all crops thrive in 100% black soil. For example, my favorite violets simply faded away in it. Well, I was lucky to find out in time about the ideal components of the earth for such flowers. Transplanting into the right soil managed to save my bright pets!

First of all, it must be airy: it must allow oxygen to pass through well, allowing the roots to breathe, and not retain water.

Acidity is also important. Violets love soil with neutral acidity. If you prepare the substrate with your own hands, it is difficult to accurately guess the acidity, but if you buy soil, look for pH numbers from 6.5 to 6.8.

Buy or make it yourself

Buying is the simplest solution. Moreover, there are a lot of soils for violets on sale, and they are relatively inexpensive.

But experienced flower growers We are sure: in most of these soils the main component is peat. When watering, it begins to “caking” and hardening, and then three months pass, and the roots of the planted Saintpaulia no longer receive required quantity oxygen.

Therefore, you can either replant the flower often (but it does not like such procedures), or carefully select soils, re-reading the compositions on the packs and reviews on the Internet.

But the best thing is to make the substrate yourself.

Although, of course, if you have just started to get interested in violets or flowers in general, you probably won’t have a bag of vermiculite in your apartment and so on. similar materials. The best decision for you it is still a purchase of soil. The girl consultant will tell you how to choose it in the store:

What components are used to prepare the substrate for Saintpaulia?

  • Leaf humus. If you prepare it yourself, look for birch - it provides the best raw materials for such humus.
  • Turf. This is the top ball of soil in a deciduous forest, intertwined with the roots of grasses and other plants.
  • Perlite and/or vermiculite. Small pieces of minerals, sold at most flower or gardening stores. These substances come in different fractions (sizes). Take small pebbles. They are added to the soil to loosen it. Vermiculite can retain moisture after watering, and then slowly release it to the roots of the flower.
  • Sphagnum moss. Another option is to fluff up the soil. It is added to the main soil composition or used instead of vermiculite. Moss can be bought in a store or found in the forest, swamp, or near a pond. Conveniently, sphagnum moss can be used both raw and dried. Have you collected a lot of moss and have no time to dry it? Freeze the sphagnum moss and just let it thaw before using it the next time.
  • Sand. You need a large one, a river one. This additive also makes the soil airier, simultaneously protecting the substrate from drying out.
  • Peat. Be careful with it: on the one hand, it is nutritious and light, on the other, as I already said, it can thicken. So add it little by little.
  • Coconut substrate. This is a purchased substance, although you can also prepare it if you buy coconuts. Like peat, it is used as a minor nutrient additive to the basic composition of the soil.

Important! Collected in wildlife(even in the most eco-friendly reserve) the ingredients must be thoroughly disinfected. Humus, turf and peat can be calcined in the oven or kept in a water bath, rinse the sand, then calcine it too, and pour boiling water over the sphagnum moss.

And of course, after purchasing/procuring all these substances, immediately plan to purchase drainage for the bottom of the pot. Fill the vessel chosen for Saintpaulia at least 1/3 full with expanded clay, then add a layer of charcoal (it will additionally nourish the flower and also protect it from rot), and only after that add soil.

Best Recipes

  • For newbies. 3 shares of leaf humus and turf, 2 shares of sand and sphagnum, 1.5 shares of perlite and 1 share of vermiculite, a handful of peat and coconut coir (substrate).
  • For the pros. If you have been growing violets for more than one year, then you probably put all the ingredients by eye. This is the recipe for success... If, of course, you know well what the right soil for violets should look like.

Another proven composition flower soil you can hear in this video:

And one last thing. Even if you have already bought ready-made soil, it can be enriched with perlite, sphagnum and coconut briquettes. This will only make him better.

Is it worth adding fertilizer here?

When talking about fertilizers, many people think of store-bought bags of whitish mineral powder. But when planting violets, you can also use natural ingredients that are less dangerous to humans.

  • Charcoal or ash. These substances also contain a lot of minerals. I already said above that it is convenient to lay large pieces of coal on top of expanded clay. But small coals can be added to the soil, the main thing is without going overboard. In addition, you can crush several tablets of pharmaceutical activated carbon; it is no less useful for Saintpaulia.
  • Mullein (“cakes” that cows lose everywhere). Another natural source of microelements important for flowers. The violet, which is pampered with such nutrition when transplanted, blooms especially brightly and richly. Just don’t throw large pieces of mullein into the ground, chop them up. You can also add “cakes” later, when the flower is already planted - soak them and use the water for watering.
  • Eggshell. Potassium and calcium are what gets into the soil from the shell. It also reduces acidity. By the way, some gardeners use it instead of expanded clay and are very pleased with this drainage.

Important! If you have purchased soil, you should not add additional nutrition to it. Surely the manufacturer has already taken care of feeding, and too much nutrients can be dangerous for the flower.

Features of planting violets

Flowers can be planted in freshly created soil. But experienced gardeners advise letting the soil you mixed sit for 2-3 weeks.

Before planting, immerse your hands in the soil and feel it. Remove large pieces of any ingredient.

Immediately after planting the flower, water it a little.

Choosing a pot

Some people believe that violet is good only in plastic pot(and this could even be disposable cup or cut out bottle). But for me these flowers live in beautiful ceramic pots and are also quite happy with life.

My opinion: the main thing is that at the bottom of any vessel there is a hole for drainage excess water. Well, and the pallet, of course. I most often water my flowers through it.

Instead of an afterword: briefly about the most important things

  • A good soil composition for Saintpaulias: leaf humus + turf + perlite or vermiculite + coarse sand + sphagnum.
  • What to choose, store-bought or home-mixed soil? Of course, the second, especially if you have access to the forest where you can harvest turf and moss.
  • Homemade soil can be made more nutritious by adding crushed eggshells, charcoal, and mullein.
  • When planting or transplanting violets, do not forget that this crop requires drainage. Expanded clay is good for this.

The main components of soil for violets:
High-moor peat or soil mixtures based on it , such as "KLASMANN", "GREENWORLD", "TERA VITA", "Seliger-Agro" and others.

Perlite- almost neutral material. Rock of volcanic origin. It is added to the soil up to 30% of the volume, making the mixture lighter, more breathable, looser, which prevents caking, clumping, and compaction. Thanks to these properties, the plant’s roots develop well and air exchange is not disturbed.

Vermiculite - natural material, refers to the types of mica. It increases the acidity of the soil. It is added to the soil in the same way as perlite, up to 30% of the volume. Vermiculite provides air exchange and oxygen delivery to the roots.

Perlite is convenient to use together with vermiculite. When used together, they compensate for each other's shortcomings. It is advisable to purchase a large fraction and be sure to rinse before use.

Sphagnum moss- has antibacterial, disinfectant and antifungal properties, thanks to the anti-putrefactive substance. It also makes the soil hygroscopic and breathable.

Charcoal- a good antiseptic, it prevents rotting and acidification of the soil, and also absorbs salts and improves the structure of the soil. The use of charcoal reduces the risk of bacterial diseases of the root system of plants.

When composing the soil, you can use more or less of some components, omit some or replace them with similar ones (coconut, pine needles, bark, sand), the main thing is that the substrate is breathable, moisture-absorbing and loose.

Here are a few examples of the composition of soil mixtures for violets:

6 parts of purchased soil;
- 1 part perlite;
- 1 part vermiculite;
- 1 part sphagnum moss;
- 1 part coal

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4 parts of peat-based nutrient soil (soil for violets and begonias)
- 1/2 part perlite
-1/2 part vermiculite
- 1/2 - 1 part crushed moss
-1/2 part coconut substrate
- 2-6 tablespoons fine charcoal - depends on the volume of soil made.

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6 parts of nutritious soil (“Seliger-Agro” universal for flowers, “Vermion”, “Zashita”, “AB5, Greenworldn”)
- 1 part perlite,
- 1 part vermiculite,
- 1/2 part of coconut substrate,
- 1 part chopped sphagnum moss,
- approximately a tablespoon of fine charcoal.

These are the recipes of our famous collectors and breeders, published by Irina Shchedrina on the Violet House forum:

Recipe by Olga Aksenkina:

Vermiculite: perlite = 1:6

Charcoal 1 pack per 10 liters

Fertilizers "Plantofol" - concentrations are 4 times less than recommended. After transplantation, the plants receive clean water, during the second watering and then with a fertilizer solution.

Recipe from Olga Artemova:

Adult violets on the wick:

White high-moor peat "Klasmann"

Fertilizer "Etisso" for flowers 1ml/1l. with every watering,

Children (wick not used):

White high-moor peat "Klasmann"

Fertilizer "Etisso" according to the instructions for the fertilizer

Recipe from Irina Danilina

Adult violets and children (I do not use a wick):

"Greenworld" - 1h

Vermion elite - 1h

Perlite-Vermiculite - 0.5 packs

Charcoal - 0.5 packs per 10 l

Adult violets on the wick:

"Greenworld" - 1h

Perlite - 1 hour

Charcoal

Fertilizer Schultz (Schultz) - according to instructions, every watering

Recipe from Nina Starostenko

Adult Saintpaulias and children are grown on mats:

Terra Vita (Floral or universal) - 10l

Coniferous substrate - 1 pack

Charcoal - 1 pack

Perlite + vermiculite in a ratio of 4:1 - 10-20% of the mixture volume

Fertilizer "Etisso" - not regularly

Replant as needed.

Recipe from Tamara Kopeikina

Adult violets on the wick:

Greenworld - 10 parts

Perlite - 7 parts

Fertilizer: "Etisso" for flowers 1 ml per 1 l, constantly

Kids (I don’t use a wick)

According to the same scheme (fertilizers with each watering).

Recipe from Alexey Kuznetsov

For miniature violets:

Mature violets on the wick

fine peat (from nature) - 25%

Perlite - 75%

Fertilizer:

alternating "Etisso" for flowers (1 ml per 1 l) and for decorative foliage plants (2 ml per l) every watering

Replant after each flowering.

Children without a wick:

The soil is the same

Fertilizer:

"Etisso" (for decorative foliage) 2 ml per l each watering

Choose, experiment and you will find your own soil composition that you and your violets will like. These soils can be successfully used in growing other Gesneriaceae, such as streptocarpus.

I will add that never reuse any components. earth mixture, because harmful microorganisms could already begin to multiply there!

Good luck and success in growing your violets and other favorite flowers.

A beautiful and not particularly noticeable flower at first glance, the violet, or rather its distant relative, wild Saintpaulia, once grew between the stones in the African savannah.

In 1930, active selection of this plant began.

On this moment There are already more than 8,500 varieties of indoor Saintpaulias.

If you decide to grow violets at home, then the first thing you should do is figure out what kind of soil you will use. If you accept correct solution, the plant will take root well and will delight you with its beauty.

In today's material we will tell you in detail about which soil is best suited for Saintpaulias. Varietal Saintpaulias, for example, are especially demanding on the substrate.

The choice of soil for violets should be taken responsibly, it depends on appearance the future plant, and its ability to flower. In addition to the presence of nutrients, the soil must meet certain criteria:

  • Breathability. Soil saturation with air.

    This can be achieved by adding raising agents to the soil: vermiculite, coconut fiber, perlite.

    Without them, the soil can quickly turn into a compacted lump, which will cause rotting of the roots.

  • Moisture capacity. The ability of soil to hold a certain amount of water.
  • The presence of phosphorus and potassium. Their lack in the soil will negatively affect budding, which means your Saintpaulia will not bloom. Subsequently, the leaves will turn yellow and curl.
  • pH 5.5-6.5.

All these indicators are applicable for violets grown in room conditions. In their natural environment, they grow in different soils and adapt well to them. Indoor relatives of Saintpaulia are more delicate and will not grow in poor soil.

Soil in nature

Preferences greatly depend on the specific variety of this flower. Some Saintpaulias prefer sunny meadows, hills, mountain slopes, while others feel great in shady gorges and bushes. Still others grow well on marshy soil, and still others tolerate drought and poor soil very well.

These plants are distributed from the Arctic to Tierra del Fuego, hence the different soil requirements. Some varieties thrive even in semi-deserts, prairies and coastal dunes.

Some of the varieties are distinguished by lush and very spectacular flowering, for example violets, and.

Ready-made soil mixtures and their composition

Many people ask us the question - which soil to give preference to - purchased or made independently. We believe that a soil mixture “assembled” with your own hands will be of better quality. Buying soil from a store can lead to some problems. They are related to the following points:

If you decide to purchase soil in a store, pay attention to the color; it should be reddish-brown, with coarse-fiber peat.

This table presents optimal soil for planting violets.

IMPORTANT! Before planting the plant in the ground, make sure that planting material sterilized and not infected. All purchased soil, as well as turf, leaf and manure humus must be disinfected.

Here are examples of soils that consist of low-lying peat and quickly cake:

  • Saintpaulia "Biotech";
  • Saintpaulia "Garden of Miracles";
  • Saintpaulia "Vegetable Garden".

These mixtures are not suitable for growing violets, but can be used as a basis when preparing the substrate manually.

Making your own substrate

To any purchased mixture you will have to add baking powder. But it is best to prepare the mixture yourself. It can be compiled in two ways:

  1. Peat and baking powder. In this case, you will have to systematically feed the plant.
  2. Making a complex mixture, which includes all the necessary components.

Before mixing the soil, all ingredients must be sterilized.

The most convenient and common methods of disinfection are treatment with chemicals, calcination in the oven or spilling with boiling water.

Expert opinion

Klimkina Elena Vladislavovna

Florist, businessman. Organized her own business on a country plot of land

After you have cultivated the soil, it must be watered with a solution of Trichodermin or Fitolavin-300. The fact is that in sterile soil microbes that live in environment. Using these drugs, you populate the earth beneficial microorganisms, which will independently fight pathogenic ones.

Here are some recipes good soils for violets:

  1. .
    • 50% soil + peat;
    • 20% perlite;
    • 20% moss;
    • 10% nutrient soil + charcoal.
  2. .
    • 70% nutrient soil;
    • 10% moss;
    • 10% perlite;
    • 10% charcoal.
  3. .
    • 3: 1 peat and nutrient soil;
    • 1 part perlite;
    • 1 part charcoal.

In addition to the main components, you can add to the soil: ground eggshells, dolomite flour, compost, river sand, coniferous soil. In any of the above options, the soil should be loose, airy, well permeable to air and water.

You can store it in a box (covered inside with polyethylene) with the lid closed; you should try to avoid drying out and limit air access as much as possible.

Use of additives

To ensure that the land in which plants are grown is as beneficial and safe as possible for them, the following additives are used:

Name Usage
Perlite

(acidic volcanic glass)

  • Keeps you warm.
  • Protects against hypothermia.
  • Drainage.
  • Reducing soil acidity.
  • Loosening.
  • Dries faster than vermiculite.
Vermiculite
  • Mulching.
  • Aeration.
  • Drainage.
  • Reducing soil acidity.
  • Protecting roots from temperature changes.
  • For rooting cuttings.
Sphagnum(moss)
  • Bactericidal, antiputrefactive, antifungal properties.
  • Increases the looseness of the soil (cut moss).
  • Creates a slightly acidic environment.
  • Mat for extra moisture for plants.
  • Rooting leaves.
Peat- the basis of all soil mixtures.

(organic matter)

Horse (light)
  • Makes the soil light, loose, breathable.
  • Creates an acidic environment, pulling away limescale.
  • No bacteria.

Lowland (dark)

  • Retains water.
  • Rich in organic substances.
  • Cannot be used in its pure form.

Remember! All beneficial features moss exists only in a “living” form. Moss and vermiculite must be washed before use.

You can adjust the amount of additives used at your discretion. You can use our soil recipes as recommendations.

Even the most best soil will not contribute good growth violets if you fill it. ? Find out in the material via our link.

Fertilizers for Saintpaulias

For full growth and development, each plant requires not only light, water and warmth, but also fertilizers.

The plant receives them from the soil, but the nutrients contained in it are washed out over time and “eaten” by the roots. Therefore, violets need periodic feeding.

There are two types of fertilizers:

  • Mineral;
  • Organic;

Fertilizers come in liquid form, in sticks, granules, etc. You choose the forms that are convenient for you.

N nitrogen– necessary for young plants, enhances the growth of green mass

P phosphorus– needed for buds and flowering

K potassium– prolongs flowering

Vitamins and amino acids– roots absorb nutrients better.

The basic feeding rules should be followed:

  • Feeding is applied from above;
  • It is better to underfeed a violet than to overfeed it;
  • Be sure to read the instructions before use;
  • Apply fertilizers on time;
  • Fertilizer does not replace fresh soil;
  • It is necessary to periodically change the diet;
  • Fertilizers must be applied to slightly moist soil;
  • A sick plant is not fertilized.

If you follow these simple rules, then you will grow into a healthy plant that will delight you with beautiful flowers for a long time.

Violet is a beautiful and unpretentious plant. However, if you do not provide her with proper care, she will die. To prevent this from happening, create comfortable conditions for her. By planting Saintpaulia in high-quality soil, you will get large and healthy flowers, and your plant care will be reduced to a minimum.

Useful video

If you want to make the perfect soil for violets yourself, you will find the following video helpful.



 
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