• Interior
• Window
• Walls
• Projects
• The buildings

Drilling holes in walls. Electric drills. Drilling with electric drills. Installing drills on special columns Drilling various holes with an electric drill

Drilling metal with a drill is somewhat more difficult than wood, brick or concrete. There are also some peculiarities.

For convenience, we have combined practical advice on this type of work into step-by-step instructions.

1. You will need the following tools: drill, drill, coolant (preferably machine oil, but water can also be used), punch, hammer, safety glasses.
2. When drilling metal horizontal surface, we put it under the product wooden block and fix it as best we can. When working in a vertical position, rigid fixation is extremely important, since drilling must be strictly perpendicular.
3. We make markings, then use a center punch and a hammer to mark the center of the future hole.
4. Pour coolant into a small container.
5. We put on safety glasses.
6. Let's start drilling. Do not put strong pressure on the drill, because it works better at low speeds. If the drill is powerful, then the method of short-term activation is suitable until the tool has time to reach maximum speed.
7. Don't forget to cool the drill as often as possible .
8. When drilling occurs not strictly perpendicularly, but at an angle, there is a high probability that the drill will jam. If this happens, put the switch in the reverse position. This way you will avoid injury and will not break the drill.
9. If you did everything correctly, then even at home, using a low-power drill, you can drill a hole in metal up to 5 mm thick inclusive and with a diameter of up to 10-12 mm. Oh more complex tasks we'll tell you below.

Metal drilling work

It is possible, but this is in case of extreme necessity for shallow holes with a small diameter. Unprofitable.

It is better to use either standard metal drills with steel grade R6M5 or improved ones - R6M5K5.

The letter K in the marking indicates that this is an alloy with the addition of cobalt. On the market you can find a drill called “Cobalt”. We will not vouch for all manufacturers; we will only note that reviews of practical use in the vast majority of cases are positive.

How to drill with a step drill in metal?

Step drills are universal – you can make holes with just one different diameters(from 2 to 40 mm). They are most effective when working with thin metal, when you need to get a neat edge. They are better fixed in the cartridge, they are easier to sharpen, and therefore when correct operation They last longer, but also cost more than usual. The principles of working with them are the same, but it is easier to drill large-diameter holes than with conventional twist drills.

Is it possible to drill metal with a Pobedit drill?

The principle of operation of drills for metal is to cut, and with pobedite soldering, crush materials. Brick, concrete, and stone are better suited for this. Therefore, as mentioned above, you can, of course, drill metal with a drill for concrete, but it will quickly become unusable and the victorious soldering will be destroyed.

Revolutions

What is the larger hole diameter? the lower the speed should be. The greater the depth? Therefore, you gradually need to reduce the pressure on the drill. With a drill diameter of up to 5 mm, the torque should not be higher than 1200-1500 rpm. Accordingly, 10 mm in diameter - no more than 700 rpm, 15 mm - 400 rpm.

How to drill holes in large diameter metal?

Usually, most of drills for household use power from 500 to 800 W, which allows you to drill holes with a diameter of up to 10-12 mm.

How to properly drill metal thicker than 10 mm with an electric drill?

In metal up to 2 mm thick, using step drills you can make holes up to 40 mm. With a thickness of 3 mm, bimetallic crowns are better suited.

Bimetallic crown

When drilling deep holes with any tool, you may sometimes need a magnet to remove the chips.

Metal drilling process

Particular attention should be paid to safety precautions, be sure to protect your eyes from chips, and if there is distortion and jamming, immediately turn off the drill and change the torque to reverse movement.

In situations where there is no power or where the noise of the tool operating may disturb others ( read: when can you make repairs so as not to quarrel with your neighbors?)– ideal solution When drilling metal there will be a hand-held mechanical drill, the so-called brace. Low speed and pressure, no overheating, just what you need. Of course, there are also disadvantages - time-consuming and easy fatigue. Using this simple “old-fashioned” method, you can drill holes with a diameter of up to 10 mm.

We hope our tips will be useful to you.

More information in this video.

Coolant for metal cutting

Drilling of rolled metal: types and technology

The drilling procedure can easily be called one of the most important metal processing technologies.

Subscribe to site news

The main purpose of drilling is to produce mounting and technical holes of various diameters, depths and shapes, thread cutting, counterbore and countersinking. This procedure is carried out on drilling machines of various sizes and configurations. The MTS Center company also produces stuffed oil seals.

Using the drilling method, carried out on modern equipment, and the use of special tools, various operations are performed, among which the following can be distinguished:

·​ Drilling holes cylindrical;

·​ Drilling holes with an oval or multifaceted configuration;

·​ Drilling, countersinking and even grinding existing holes.

Drilling technology involves the possibility of producing both blind and through holes in metal structures of various sizes and shapes. At the same time, using special equipment equipped with CNC, it is possible to ensure high accuracy of holes and prepare a product, for example a sliding support, for subsequent assembly or further operations prescribed in the technological process.

This method is used for processing products or workpieces made from various types of steel and cast iron. Naturally, for each material it is individually selected cutting tool(drill, countersink, reamer), as well as processing modes, lubrication and other parameters.

This type of metalworking, such as drilling, is indispensable in various fields of industry, ranging from small enterprises engaged in small-scale production of components for equipment, and in large factories that have a full production cycle for a certain range of products. The processing accuracy, as well as the characteristics of the holes produced by drilling, directly depend on the machines, tools and technologies used.

In a home craftsman's workshop, an electric drill takes pride of place. This is the first power tool invented in the world. An indispensable assistant for drilling holes continues to surprise with its application possibilities. A real lifesaver that is very easy to use. Below we will talk about how to work with this tool, how to insert or remove a drill, and what else is possible.

Main functions of the tool

The main purpose of an electric drill is to drill holes in materials. It was for this purpose that Wilhelm Fein invented it in 1895.

Inside the plastic case there are components:

• electric motor;
• starting switch;
• gearbox;
• reverse;
• retainer;
• capacitor;
• impact mechanism.

A chuck for attachments is attached to the shaft (spindle) of the drill using a thread and a fixing screw.

The fixed drill rotates both to the right and to the left. For this purpose, a reverse switch is placed on the housing. In this mode, you can only remove the drill from the hole or unscrew screws and screws. Turn on for a short period of time at reduced speed.

Drill operating modes

Many had to hammer into the wall with a bolt in order to hang a cornice or a picture. Now this is done with a drill, setting the correct operating mode.

1. Unstressed. Carpentry and plumbing work is carried out in this mode.
2. Shock. For working with concrete, brick or stone foundations. The rotating drill moves in longitudinal direction and makes forward (shock) movements.

Drill speed for different tasks differs and is regulated in two ways.

1. Mechanical. The desired position is set on the scale. As speed decreases, torque increases. The output power does not change, even under load. You can set the speed while the drill is running.
2. Electronic. The speed is controlled by a built-in rheostat. When you lightly press the switch key, the drill rotates at low speed. As you press harder, the speed increases until it reaches the set limit. The extreme value can be limited by a special wheel on the button. The output power with this method is reduced.

Drill fixation mechanism

It is difficult to work with a drill that is inserted incorrectly. It breaks or flies out, resulting in an uneven hole.

The drill has a jaw chuck. An adjusting ring moves along the surface of the hollow cylinder. The chuck is mounted on the drill shaft with a base with a threaded or tapered hole.

How to insert a drill into a chuck

Step 1: The chuck jaws are closed.

Step 2. Rotate the adjustment ring counterclockwise by hand. The jaws inside the chuck diverge to a distance of slightly larger size drill.

Step 3. Insert the drill into the chuck to the full possible depth. The diameter of the clamped tool is allowed 2 - 13 mm.

Step 4. By rotating the adjusting ring clockwise by hand, tighten the drill.

Step 5. Insert the drill key into the hole on the chuck body so that the teeth on the key and the chuck are closed.

Step 6. With slight pressure, turn the key clockwise until it stops to securely fix the drill. There are 2 - 3 key holes, we insert them into each one in turn for uniform clamping.

Step 7. The drill is ready for use.

Before carrying out any maintenance work, remove the plug from the socket.

To avoid losing the key, craftsmen secure it with electrical tape to the drill wire.

Less commonly used is a quick-release jaw chuck, which is tightened without a key. It comes with one or two adjusting sleeves with anti-slip notches. If there is only one sleeve, hold the drill body motionless. If there are two sleeves, the part fixed to the spindle remains motionless. The moving part is turned by hand: when securing the drill clockwise, when removing it counterclockwise.

How to remove a drill from a chuck

The drill can only be removed from a disconnected tool.

While rotating, the drill and chuck become very hot. Do not touch them with bare hands immediately after switching off.

If there are no problems with the drill such as jamming or breakage, it is easy to remove it from the chuck. Operate in reverse ok.

1. The key is inserted into the holes of the cartridge one by one and turned slightly counterclockwise. The clenching of the fists weakens.
2. The adjusting ring is manually turned counterclockwise. The fists inside diverge.
3. Take out the drill.

If the drill has a locking mechanism, first press the locking button.

How to use a drill: basic rules

Beginning of work

1. Before turning on, check the plug and cord. If damaged, do not use the drill. The plug must fit tightly into the socket.
2. The side handle (if present) is put on the spindle and secured in any direction. It gives additional control over the instrument.
3. The drill is tightly fixed in the drill.
4. Set the switch to drilling/drilling mode.
5. To limit the depth, set and fix the position of the limiter.
6. The regulator sets the maximum speed.
7. There are drills with a drill diameter recognition function in the range of 3 - 13 mm. In this case, the automation takes into account the size of the drill and the material being processed. The optimal speed is determined by the autopilot. Automation cannot be used if the drill diameter is larger than the shank. Then the required speed is set manually.
8. Press the switch key. If the speed control is electronic, it is changed by smoothly pressing the trigger.

How to make a vertical, horizontal, corner hole in wood

During drilling, the workpiece or part is tightly clamped in a vice on a workbench or with clamps to the work table.

Under no circumstances should you hold the part with your hands; both hands must be free.

Holes with an electric drill in any material are drilled only at an angle of 90 0.

How to drill a vertical hole

1. Put the drill in drilling mode.
2. Select speed: the thinner the drill, the higher. The diameters of the drill and the screw shaft must be equal. Otherwise, the screw is difficult to insert and the wood will crack.
3. If the hole is through, it is good to place a wooden block under the workpiece. This will prevent the edges of the hole from splitting when the drill comes out.
4. If the hole is blind, its diameter and depth should be the same as that of a screw for screwing in. Even if you screw in self-tapping screws, light pre-drilling will make the job easier.
5. The drill enters the surface only at a right angle. Having fixed the tip of the drill in the wood, turn on the maximum speed. The higher the speed, the more accurately the drill moves and cuts the wood fibers.

Video: how to drill a perpendicular hole using homemade products

For a horizontal hole, only the workpiece is moved. If a hole at an angle is required, the desired position of the part is set in a vice. It is clamped rigidly and skewed so that the drill enters perpendicular to the surface.

If a hole is needed in a part of a non-standard shape (for example, cylindrical), prepare one or more gaskets. They fix the desired position of the workpiece in a vice and guide the drill (preferably with a centering tip) to the drilling point.

The drill only goes into a flat surface. Professionals use a jig device for drilling at an angle, which is attached to the part.

You can make the simplest conductor yourself.

1. In a block 50 - 60 mm thick, drill a hole at an angle of 90 0 with a depth of no more than 5 mm.
2. Without removing the drill from the hole, change its direction to the desired angle. Pre-drilling will prevent it from slipping out. Drill the block to its full depth.
3. The primitive conductor is ready. The drilled hole will serve as a guide for the drill.

If craftsmen do not want to use conductors, they come up with convenient devices for themselves.

Video: angle drilling device

How to drill holes in concrete and brick foundations

If perpendicular holes are drilled during construction work, support post will ensure accurate drill direction. The drilling depth limiter will tell you when to stop. If it is not included with the drill, do it yourself. A wooden cube is “cut” onto the drill that will be used to work. The free area of ​​the drill is equal to the required depth. Or they wrap electrical tape around the drill in front of such a section.

Only a rotary hammer can withstand a long load in shock mode. But for short-term work, a drill is suitable. To do this, set the shock mode and operate at high speeds. It is important to ensure that there are no hidden wiring or fittings in the wall or ceiling.

When drilling such surfaces, a lot of dust and debris gets onto the drill; it needs to be cleaned in a timely manner.

At the end of the work, the cartridge is blown out with a stream of compressed air.

Drills marked “for concrete” with a carbide cutting part will quickly drill through walls or ceilings. It is optimal if they have a hex shank. The maximum drilling diameter in concrete is 16 mm. If the holes are up to 8 mm, it is easy to work with diamond drills.

Video: hole in a concrete wall under the baseboard

To drill a large diameter hole (for an electrical outlet), use a ring bit.

When drilling brick, choose carbide drills with pobedit tip. Drill at high speeds in impact mode. It is important that no electrical wiring runs inside the masonry. The drilling site is marked with a center punch, and the tip of the drill is placed in the hole. Drill perpendicularly so as not to break the drill. The process requires gentle pressure on the drill and regular cooling of the drill in cold water.

When using a drill in impact mode, safety glasses are required. They will protect your eyes from dust, pieces of concrete and brick.

How to drill metals

The maximum permissible drill diameter when working with steel is 13 mm.

For steel, choose drills marked “for metal”. If the part is small, secure it in a vice. Use a center punch to determine the drilling location and lightly hit it. A small depression is formed, and the end of the drill is placed into it at a right angle. Drill metal with constant pressure. If the metal is hard, drilling is slow. Soft metal is processed at medium speeds.

The drill is removed from the drilled metal without turning off the drill. It is turned off when it completely comes out of the hole.

When working with metal, wear safety glasses and tight-fitting clothing with long sleeves to avoid harm from sparks and prickly metal shavings.

For stainless steel, use drills marked “for stainless steel”. A simple drill immediately overheats during operation, and the viscous metal melts. For cooling, special compounds based on sulfur and machine oil are used. The drill is set to minimum speed (100–600). If there is no smooth adjustment, drill gradually: start the tool for 1-2 seconds and immediately turn it off.

Video: how to drill metal correctly

After prolonged operation at low speed, the drill is switched to maximum speed. Let it idle for 2-3 minutes to cool down.

For cast iron, use drills “for cast iron” with special sharpening. But they are difficult to find, so they choose carbide drills for metal. Cast iron is a hard material, but if handled carelessly, it splits easily. The selected place is cleared. Drilling begins with a small diameter at low speed, constantly cooling the drill with kerosene or water-based solution. Haste and increased pressure will only do harm.

Excessive pressure damages the instrument. It is better to start drilling with small drill diameters or with less pressure on the drill.

For the channel, you need metal drills from 3.5 mm to the required one in increments of 2–3 mm. The holes for the drill are filled with a center punch. Drill with light pressure, starting with a smaller diameter, gradually drilling out the hole. Drills are constantly lubricated with machine oil. Diamond drill bits are easier to use.

How to make a groove in wood

The workpiece is securely secured in a vice or clamp to avoid twisting and prevent accidents. It is strictly forbidden to hold it in your hands.

You can make a clean, smooth, even groove only with a milling cutter. In the absence of a milling machine, craftsmen attach a cutter from a router with a shank with a diameter of 8 mm into a drill. The spindle speed of the drill is not enough for serious machining. This option is only suitable for rough work.

An attachment for drilling wood will help you make gutters and channels. The six-edge serrated drill drills at high speed. The wood does not split, the surface remains smooth. Drilling takes place in three directions and succeeds where simple drills fail.

For small rough grooves, use a special drill bit with longitudinal cutting edges and transverse cuts.

Video: drill bit in action

DIY method

They are used when there are no cutters or such a drill.

Markings are made on the workpiece and a furrow is simply drilled, controlling the depth. If the drill is electronically controlled, start at low speeds. When there is no such function, use special drills on wood. They are spiral, made of high-strength steel and have a point for centering. The tip of the drill is fixed in the wood and the maximum speed is turned on.

Jumpers remain between the holes, which are then removed with a chisel and cleaned with sandpaper.

For holes with a diameter of 10–32 mm, ring drills are used.

How to drill tiles

Sometimes you need a hole in a tiled wall. Tiles, tiles and other materials that crack should not be drill in impact mode. If the hole is small, use a drill for glass and tiles to drill into the ceramic tiles until it stops. Then insert a concrete drill and continue working in hammer drill mode. For a large hole, drill the tile with a diamond-coated core drill, then continue working on the concrete.

Why are sparks in a drill dangerous?

An electric drill, like any other power tool, requires systematic maintenance. Spare parts wear out during operation and the lubricant dries out.

Drill brushes require regular replacement. One of the manifestations of the problem is when normal voltage The electric motor does not work in the mains. A bright signal is the formation of a circular fire on the collector. The spectacle is beautiful, but dangerous. In order not to ruin the anchor of the drill, they are changed. It is advisable to buy original ones, not Chinese ones. With them the tool will last much longer.

Please note: brushes are not universal. If you don't know what size you need, take an old one with you as a sample.

The design of the drill allows you to replace the brushes yourself. There are models in which there are installation windows for brushes on the body. Replacement is simple:

1. The plugs are unscrewed from the installation windows.
2. Remove worn brushes.
3. New brushes are installed.
4. Screw in the plugs.

Other models require minimal disassembly of the drill:

1. Remove all screws on the housing. Remove the cover. It is more convenient to leave the screws in their “native” places.
2. Take out the brush holders and remove the worn brushes from them.
3. Insert new brushes, pushing the spring firmly into place.
4. Insert the brush holders into place, tighten the electrical contact of the supply wire well.
5. Close the housing cover and tighten the screws.

Video: how to replace brushes

Nozzles: saving effort and money

If we make a rating of power tools for which manufacturers produce additional attachments and accessories, the electric drill is the leader. The drilling tool turns into a multifunctional machine for repair work. She saws, cuts, mills, grinds and does much more. In terms of performance, it will not fully replace every tool, but it solves short-term tasks for a home craftsman.

To operate, the shank of the attachment is clamped in the drill chuck, like a simple drill, and the drilling mode is set.

Sanding and polishing

For grinding, use an attachment for wheels with Velcro, where abrasive wheels of different grain sizes are attached. Metal and wood are polished with cups or discs. In hard-to-reach places, use a fan nozzle.

A file attachment is a pin that is attached at one end to a chuck. On the other it has a solder in the form of a cone, bullet or ball. They are called cutters. The holes are bored and polished using a nozzle. For rough grinding To remove burrs, use rasp attachments.

The drill becomes an electric sharpener with special attachments. The sharpening angle is adjustable, you can sharpen anything: drills, chisels, disc blades.

Properly sharpened drills provide quality drilling, are less likely to jam, and preserve the tool.

Polishing attachments: soft felt, special for cars, polishing leather ends and others. To work with rotation in any direction, select a speed of 1000 revolutions.

Scissor attachment for drill “Cricket”

With this attachment, the drill becomes a nibbler for thin sheet metal, corrugated sheets and plastic. The shank is attached to the drill chuck. It has two cutting heads that are set at the desired degree. At a rotation speed of 3000 rpm it produces a burr-free cut. You can sharply change the direction of the cut to make shaped parts.

Video: Cricket attachment in action

Attachments that make it easier

Corner. Works in hard-to-reach places as a drill and a screwdriver.

Drywall cutters. Used when installing sockets and distribution boxes.

Flexible shaft. One side is attached to the drill chuck, and the drill chuck is on the other end. Drills where a drill cannot cope without such an attachment.

How else to use a drill

Like a drill press

A well-equipped home workshop must include a stand for an electric drill. Only using this guide attachment can complex work be done. For example, a hole is drilled with extreme precision, down to tenths of a millimeter. Drill stand with attached drill turns into drilling machine.

Necessary when working with hard materials that are difficult to process. Without a strict direction, the drill does not plunge into depth, but only scratches such a surface.

A stand with a rotation of the working head or clamping device by 90 0 or 360 0 is preferable.

If the movable tripods are firmly fixed on the work table, they drill both perpendicularly and at the desired angle to the surface of the workpiece. In addition, tripods keep the drill from moving to the side. The set screws will help you accurately maintain the specified drilling depth.

The drill is clamped into the stand - a compact home drilling machine with a smooth feed is ready for work. Manufacturers allow the use of only tools marked “professional”.

Video: homemade stand for electric drill

If you attach a milling machine to a stand with top position spindle, you get a home milling machine.

Like a screwdriver

A drill easily replaces a screwdriver. To work with screws, screws, or remove jammed attachments, turn on the reverse stroke. Screws and bolts are tightened at low speed.

Be careful, the drill may slip when tightening long screws.

The directions of rotation are switched using the reverse lever after stopping the drill.

Drill as a mixer

Manufacturers produce mixer attachments for drills that mix liquid and powdery materials from the bottom up. The drill will handle a volume of no more than 10 liters. It is better not to practice this regime for a long time. Not suitable for heavy concrete mixtures.

It is better to use special drill mixers. Their design has additional handles. The intended purpose is precisely mixing mixtures. It comes with attachments and works for a long time without overheating. Like a drill, it only supports drilling mode. The price of such units is much higher.

Drill: Unexpected Use

An electric drill is bought for drilling. Then they discover new wonderful application ideas.

• Cut steel rope, copper and aluminum cable sector nozzle.
• Remove dust by connecting the dust extraction attachment to the vacuum cleaner.
• Cut threads in blind holes without fear of breaking the tap, using minimal torque.
• Calibrate PP-R pipes calibrator attachment.
• Pump and pump out liquids using a pump attachment.
• Pluck the bird. The soft striking fingers of the attachment do not damage the skin.
• Cream the honey using a stainless steel attachment similar to a mixer.

Video: interesting homemade products for electric drills

Proper handling prolongs life

In order for a home electric station wagon to help for many years, a number of rules must be followed.

• Do not allow mechanical damage (impacts, falls).
• Constant overload mode is dangerous. When the light is on, the power tool is operating at its maximum capacity.
• Avoid prolonged continuous operation. A non-professional instrument needs frequent rest. The temperature of the body is periodically checked: if you cannot hold your palm on it, the drill is turned off. They recommend 15 minutes of work, then a break until the temperature of the drill matches the ambient temperature. The total operating time per day is 4 - 5 hours, the turn-on and rest intervals are approximately the same.
• Do not use in rain or snow, or in very dusty areas.
• Rooms with an aggressive or explosive environment can have a dangerous effect on drill parts. The power tool generates sparks and may ignite dust or fumes.
• Work with caution in the area of ​​electrical wiring.
• The drill is turned on and off at idle speed.
• The drill is not released from your hands until the rotation of the chuck has completely stopped, so as not to lose control over it.
• After work, remove dirt and dust from ventilation holes on the motor housing.
• During long breaks in operation, the chuck and spindle are covered with a layer of preservative lubricant (technical petroleum jelly).

How do drills usually differ from each other? Power, modes, speed and dialing additional functions. They are different: miniature and large, battery-powered and powered, made of cheap plastic and with fancy anti-slip inserts. But each of them is a queen in the kingdom of home power tools.

Drilling is one of the most frequently performed operations by home craftsmen. And any master has encountered problems when drilling, especially if the work is delicate. And delicate work most often occurs: the drill is missing half a millimeter - the furniture door is skewed or a simple towel hook in the bathroom is askew, and it is impossible to re-drill: the tiles have just been laid. Grace and “oakiness” are incompatible, so you need to know how to drill correctly with a drill.

Safety

In terms of electrical safety, commercially available power tools belong to class II: double working insulation, use without additional grounding is permissible, i.e. Such a drill can be plugged into a regular, non-European socket through an adapter. At “iron bazaars” you can find class I (“industrial”) tools with a grounding terminal on a metal body. It is dangerous to use it in everyday life, and its chuck is most often used for a drill with a conical shank (Morse taper), unsuitable for rotary impact drilling. Therefore, do not buy such a drill, even if it is powerful and inexpensive.

Class I is indicated on the nameplate of the drill, and if there is no designation, the body is partially or completely plastic, and the cord with a Euro plug is a class II tool. Class III - a power tool with an operating voltage of up to 42 V (low voltage) can be recognized by the class designation on the nameplate and by a special plug with flat crosswise contacts. It is suitable for home use, but inconvenient: you need a powerful step-down transformer.

For protection against foreign objects and moisture, power tools and equipment are marked with the letters IP (Ingress Protection) with two numbers after them: the first - from foreign objects, the second - from moisture. If the protection for any position is zero, the letter X is placed instead of the corresponding number. Thus, an IP32 drill can be used outdoors in good weather; IPХ2 - only inside, IP34 - outside in fog and drizzling rain, and IP68 can work during the Samum in the Sahara and under water.

Important: the first digit 2 means that the device is finger-resistant; for example, a household socket has a degree of protection of IP22. But this in no way means that if you grab a drill chuck with the same degree of protection with your hand while working, it will stop on its own. The IP standard is not fool proof.

Cartridge

The regular three-jaw chuck is accurate and good at rotary drilling. When using a rotary impact drill, it quickly becomes loose, and the chuck itself loses accuracy and may completely fail: the threaded race of the cam mechanism bursts. For work on hard, brittle materials, the three-jaw chuck is suitable for occasional use or with a diamond working body in rotation-only mode.

In a quick-release chuck (you can recognize it by its corrugated plastic collar), the drill is clamped by a collet. Such a chuck holds the drill better during impact-rotary drilling, but is less accurate and is of little use for delicate work. Powerful drills are equipped with a two-sleeve collet chuck - clamping and loosening are carried out by different rings.

The SDS cartridge (Steck-Dreh-Sitzt, German “inserted-turned-sits” or Special Direct System, special direct system, English) was invented by Bosh. SDS is ideal for construction work: the system of shaped grooves, see figure, absolutely securely fixes the working element according to the principle of a Chinese puzzle; Replacing the drill is done with just two light movements.

Unfortunately, SDS is not suitable for metalworking and carpentry: the centering accuracy of the drill is insufficient. Adapter with three-jaw chuck does not make sense on SDS: it will become loose from vibration, just like a regular drill. Therefore, the SDS drill is incompatible with the conventional working tool fit.

Note: There are three types of SDS fit: SDS+, SDS Top and SDS Max. SDS Top is rarely used, as an intermediate and generally unsuccessful option; SDS+ is designed for one-handed tools weighing up to 5 kg; SDS Max – for heavy two-handed.

Power and speed

Buying a rotary impact drill for general works, no need to save on power. Power reserve is needed to create the required torque at low speeds. The external characteristics of a series-excited commutator motor used in drills are close to ideal, but the low-power motor overheats at low speeds due to high current. It is also advisable to purchase, if not included, a front slip handle.

The maximum speed of the drill is also important. The diamond tool is literally “eaten up” before our eyes at a rotation speed of less than 1600-1700 rpm; its normal operating speed is from 2500 rpm. Carbide tools require at least 1500 rpm. If you come across a drill at 600-1200 rpm, this is a special tool for work general purpose unsuitable.

For precision work For metal, a simple, low-power drill with only rotation is best - 120-200 W. A stand that turns the drill into a tabletop drilling machine will be very useful. And if you also fork out for Rotary table to the bed, then it will be possible to mill small parts with a dental bur.

Mains or battery?

A home craftsman needs a cordless drill in two cases:

• If you work on the side, this is your more or less regular extra income.
• If you have a non-electrified cottage or garage.

In any case, an expensive professional drill with a lithium battery and a charging time of 10-20 minutes is unlikely to pay for itself. This is an option for professionals who work full shifts day after day. A regular alkaline battery, charged in 4-8 hours, will suit you. In extreme cases, you can “pump it up” to a hole or two in half an hour.

Section summary

All of the above can be reduced to the following recommendations:

• Regular construction works, including metal structures - you need a hammer drill and an impact drill of 350 W or higher.
• Occasional household work – rotary impact drill from 250 W.
• For precision drilling - an additional precision drill for rotary drilling at 120-150 W; preferably with a stand.

Drill

The following types of drill bits are most commonly used:

• Spiral - are made of tool steel, coated with carbide, with a carbide insert and solid carbide. Used for all types of work on any materials.
• Spade bits can be used to drill wood, MDF and plastic. Allows you to drill large diameter holes. They are made either in one piece or in the form of a set of a shank with a groove and several inserts of different diameters. This set is cheaper than a set of solid nibs, but less accurate.
• Crowns (crowns) are used for excavating holes in hard brittle materials - stone, concrete and drilling wide holes in chipboard and fiberboard. Available with or without a centering twist drill. The latter are cheaper, but are only suitable for stone and require strong working skills.
• A circular drill (centre drill, ballerina drill) is used to drill large-diameter holes in thin, durable but fragile materials with a decorative front surface, such as tiles or polished decorative stone. The drilling diameter of the circular drill can be changed smoothly. Rotary impact drilling with a circular drill is unacceptable.
• Diamond drills are thin-walled tubes made of a special alloy coated with diamond. They can be used to drill glass, polished decorative stone, and glazed ceramic tiles. Roads require careful handling and precise adherence to drilling technology.

Drill sharpening

Drill sharpening

Self-sharpening of drills is acceptable for twist and feather drills. The first ones are sharpened with a diamond file - they are made of tool steel. Cheap sets can be made from regular carbon steel; their feathers can be straightened with a regular file.

Spiral drills are sharpened with an emery wheel (carbide - diamond) using a device - a wedge with an angle of 180 degrees minus half the sharpening angle. So, with a sharpening angle of 120 degrees, the wedge angle is needed at 30 degrees. In the hypotenuse (oblique side) of the wedge, a longitudinal hollow or blind hole is made, in which the drill is smoothly turned when sharpening. Best sharpening is obtained using a fine (“velvet”) hand emery wheel, see fig. below.

Different materials require different drill sharpening angles. Metal is most often drilled with drills with a sharpening angle of 116 degrees, concrete and stone - 90 degrees, wood - 60-90 degrees. The exact angles and sharpening methods for different types of drill bits for different materials can be found in material processing reference manuals.

About hard alloys

Carbide alloys for drills are made based on boron, tungsten or zirconium compounds. The cheapest ones are based on boron, but such a drill will take concrete with great difficulty and will wear out quickly. Such drills are marked “by stone”. Drill with them decorative materials You can’t - the edges of the hole will chip. Tungsten and zirconium compounds differ primarily in their durability: zirconium compounds last longer. They cost more accordingly.

What and how to drill

Whenever drilling, the hole locations must be marked. For metal this is done with a center punch, and for glass, ceramics and stone - either with a special diamond center punch, or with half a pobedit roller from an old glass cutter, clamped into a homemade holder. Marking (more precisely, scratching with rotation) hole marks in fragile hard materials must be done manually. Now let's move directly to drilling technology.

Steel, brass, bronze, massive duralumin

Drilling of metal of normal viscosity is carried out at medium drill speeds, 400-1000 rpm depending on the diameter of the hole: 400 revolutions - at maximum for conventional drill drill diameter 13 mm; 1000 – with a diameter of 3 mm. For smaller diameters, the speed is again reduced to the same 400 rpm for 1 mm.

We mean maximum speed at idle. During the drilling process, the regulator itself will reduce them according to the tool feed, i.e. according to how hard you lean on it. Selecting the feed when manual drilling by weight requires a certain skill: if the feed is too low, crumbs will form, the hole will end up with uneven walls. And from the same crumbs the drill will overheat and quickly become dull.

If the feed is excessive, so-called drain chips will form - thick, curling in a spiral. The result is the same. To develop the feeding skill faster, you need to drill even small holes with both hands, with a cap handle. The chips should be thin and fragile. For steels 42 and 44 (regular structural steels), chips with a bluish tarnish color are acceptable.

Bronze and some types of duralumin require special attention: they do not produce flush chips at all, and duralumin sharply loses strength when heated above 160 degrees. It is permissible to monitor bronze by its tarnish: its appearance is undesirable. The duralumin needs to be cooled with liquid machine oil: if it boils, you need to press it lightly.

You can set the idle speed by clicking the regulator. If the drill is at 2800 rpm, and the regulator gives 14 clicks from edge to edge, then 1 click is 200 rpm. The adjusting characteristic of the regulator is not always linear, so you need to carefully monitor the drilling process and then make the necessary correction: know at what clicks of this particular tool you need to drill a given material.

Note: When drilling steel and brass, lubrication is not needed, it will only prevent the formation of correct chips.

Sheet metal

For the same materials, but sheet materials, so that drilling does not lead to bending of the sheet, two methods can be recommended:

• When drilling from the bed, give more revolutions, up to 1500-2000, and quickly “pierce” the sheet, which should lie on a wooden pad. To prevent the sheet from turning and injuring you, it must be secured with nails driven into the cushion at its edges, or pressed to the table with a clamp; better - two.
• When drilling by weight, as soon as you feel increased resistance to feed (this means that the drill is about to come out), you need to drill a hole on the other side, pressing the “pimples” inside with a center punch.

But a radical way to get a wide hole in a thin sheet of metal with a regular drill is to first drill a hole with a diameter equal to the thickness of the sheet, then in one or three steps expand it to the diameter of the required hole minus double the thickness of the metal, and drill cleanly. Each subsequent hole should be wider than the previous one by twice the thickness of the metal. The maximum permissible diameter is 5-6 metal thicknesses. That is, in a 2 mm sheet you can drill a hole with a diameter of 13 mm, and it will be round, and not like a triangle with very smooth corners.

Aluminum is a soft metal, very viscous and fusible: its melting point is only 660 degrees. Because of this, when drilling, it may melt on the cutting edge, the hole will spread out, its edges will bulge and the drill will bite. Therefore, when drilling aluminum, the speed should be one and a half times less than for other metals, cool the drill with liquid machine oil, emulsion or water, and feed the tool little by little, without interference.

The drill bit for aluminum must be sharp, factory sharpened or sharpened on a special machine. Hand-sharpened drills are not suitable for aluminum.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel is drilled in the same way as structural steel, but with a solid carbide drill bit sharpened for metal. Such drills are very fragile, so the tool must be fed easily and without the slightest distortion. It is best to drill with a low-power precision drill in a stand.

Wood, MDF and plastic

Industrial wood is drilled with a twist drill or a feather drill, sharpened to look like wood. Dense woods (oak, beech, walnut) can be drilled with a core bit and a centering drill. Drill revolutions are 400-600 for a twist drill and 200-500 for feathers and crowns.

Drilling of plastic windows, MDF, plastic tiles and polished wood are produced either with a special wood drill (with shaped sharpening and a centering threaded cone) or with solid feather drills. In the latter case, a centering hole of 3-5 mm is drilled in advance; it can be drilled with a regular drill. Turnovers are the same as for industrial wood; The feed is easy, without pressure.

Concrete and reinforced concrete

Drilling of concrete is carried out using special drills for concrete with a super-hard solder or liner, using a rotary impact method at medium or 2/3 of the maximum speed of the drill. Best option – SDS drill. If reinforced concrete is drilled, then the drill hitting the reinforcement most often leads to its damage: the hard tip gets chipped. Therefore, before drilling reinforced concrete, it is highly advisable to determine the location of the reinforcement using a reinforcement detector; This device works on the principle of a metal detector.

Drilling holes in the walls for socket boxes is done with a crown for stone (for brick walls) or concrete, with the same precautions in the case of reinforced concrete. If the hole is drilled with a crown without a centering drill, then it is applied tightly, without distortion, to the wall, pressed, and with sharp, quick pressure, turn on the drill.

There is a special tool and technology for through-drilling walls, but this is the subject of a separate description.

Ceramics and stone

How to drill tiles is, without exaggeration, a whole science. The material is decorative; chipping of the edges of the hole is unacceptable. They drill into already laid tiles, so cracking is also unacceptable. The drill can easily slip on a smooth surface, which is again unacceptable. Drilling - only by rotation.

Drilling ceramic tiles is done as follows:

• A hole with a diameter larger than the thickness of the centering drill web is punched manually with a diamond or carbide center punch; its diameter is 2.5-3 mm. When drilling a large diameter hole, the diameter of the centering drill should be equal to the diameter of the centering rod of the compass drill.
• A centering hole is drilled using a concrete drill. When drilling holes for dowels up to 6 mm, you can immediately drill clean.
• Using a concrete finishing drill, the hole is finally drilled.

Porcelain tiles are drilled in the same way as ceramic tiles. Drill speed is maximum, except for drilling with a circular drill; serving – light, minimal. It is advisable to ensure continuous cooling of the working area with water. You cannot cool the tiles with oil - when heated, it can ruin the decorative surface.

Drilling ceramics with a circular drill requires special care and steady hands: misalignment is unacceptable, and the drill is not balanced. Even experienced workers need to drill with a cetrobur with both hands, placing the front handle on the drill. The revolutions are higher, but not more than 900, because with large ones, an unbalanced drill will break the hole and chip off its edges.

Video: how to drill tiles

Solid stone and glass

Glass, granite and other brecciated (grainy) hard stone with quartz inclusions should be drilled with a diamond drill bit. This is a job for an ace and virtuoso of drilling. A low-power precision drill is set to maximum speed, tried on, aligned horizontally and vertically by eye, immediately turned on “full” and slowly, smoothly inserted the drill into the material. Pressure and distortion are unacceptable.

If the piece being processed can be laid on a table, then glass and stone can be drilled from the bed using the ancient Egyptian method: with a copper tube and quartz (not sea shell) sand:

• A roller 1-1.5 cm high is made from plasticine or putty around the drilling site.
• Fine quartz sand is poured into the formed hole and moistened to a liquid paste.
• A flat, thin-walled copper tube is inserted into the drill chuck.
• The drill is set to MINIMUM speed.
• Drill with a series of short, light pecks with the lightest pressure. Sand eats into copper, and the tips of its grains, which have the greatest strength, gnaw the material.

Note: You won’t get the exact diameter, but you will get a matte spot around the hole.

Video: examples of glass drilling at home

Holes in pipes

If a piece of pipe can be laid in the center or clamped in a vice, then it is better to drill with a precision drill from the bed. If you have to drill by weight, then after punching the mark must be expanded to a diameter exceeding the thickness of the drill bridge. For metal, this can be done with a carbide drill, rotating it with your fingers with light pressure; on PVC - with the tip of a penknife.

Then the tip of the main drill is inserted into the hole with the drill turned off, the tool is leveled and tried on, as when drilling tiles, lightly pressed and turn on the drill, gradually increasing the speed. If the hole diameter is more than 1/5 of the pipe diameter, then first drill a centering hole 2-4 mm in diameter. In general, with some skill, drilling holes in pipes is not a difficult job. You just need to be careful: when drilling while hanging, the drill, if it splashes, can damage the wall or furniture.

Square holes

Is it possible to drill square holes? Yes, you can, if you use a drill in the form of a so-called Renault triangle - the simplest figure, as mathematicians say, of constant width. Renault drills come complete with a fixing frame; it is attached to the drill with a rod and clamp. The corners of the hole will be rounded, but the unnoticed area of ​​the hole will be only 2%.

However, you can only drill square holes with a drill in wood, plywood and not very durable plastic: such drilling requires a lot of power, and enormous lateral forces arise on the tool. Square holes in metal are drilled on special machines, but ceramics and stone cannot be drilled this way at all: lateral forces will tear the part into pieces.

Bottom line

Somehow piercing a clumsy hole with a drill is a simple matter. But drilling a smooth, round and neat hole is a job for a real master, knowledgeable, intelligent and with skillful hands.

The first electric motor was invented in 1834 by the Russian scientist B.S. Jacobi. Over the next 30 years, work tools began to appear based on an electric motor. The first drill began working in 1868 in the office of the American dentist D. Green. Modern look I purchased the instrument in 1916, when mechanics Black and Dekker designed the body in the form of a pistol with a button in place of the trigger.

What is a drill usually used for?

The main purpose of an electric drill is to drill various materials. Calculations of technical indicators when designing new models are carried out based precisely on this task.

During operation, the electric motor rotates the chuck with the drill clamped in it. The speed of movement is regulated using a special rheostat controlled by a start button. The direction of movement can be changed by switching the reverse lever. The function of changing the direction of rotation will help if the drill jams at the exit from the material. In addition, with special attachments, the drill can be used as a screwdriver - tighten and unscrew screws.

The multifunctionality of the tool is provided for by its design.

Drills often have two or more speeds. This is achieved using a gearbox connecting the engine to the working shaft. Change gear ratio gears of the gearbox leads to a change in the rotation speed and power of the working tool.

Video: drill - a look from the inside

Power tools in this category usually have two main operating modes. Standard drilling mode and hammer drilling. Normal mode is used during plumbing and carpentry work. Impact drilling is designed to make holes in stone walls, concrete and brick.

The impact mechanism of the drill consists of two coaxially located ratchets, which, when interacting, give the working shaft additional translational motion. In this case, special drills with carbide tips are used at the end of the working part. The impact force of such a mechanism depends on the external pressure on the drill. In order for drilling to proceed quickly, a force of 10–15 kg must be applied to the body.

Preparing for work

The readiness of the drill for operation is determined by the following conditions:

• the device is connected to an outlet (for drills powered by an electrical network);
• the battery is charged and installed in the compartment (for cordless tools);
• a drill is installed in the chuck.

Attention! To make the hole smooth, the cutting edge of the drill must be sharpened. Take a new drill or sharpen an old one using a whetstone.

You can press the start button to check the power. If the chuck rotates quickly, then electric current is supplied to the motor and the tool is ready for use. If the cordless drill chuck rotates slowly, the battery is discharged - it needs to be charged.

How to insert a drill correctly?

To correctly insert the drill into the chuck, you need to know the following. The hole intended for clamping the tool is no more than 2 cm deep. The deeper the drill is set, the more securely it will hold in the chuck. There are two types of chuck clamping mechanisms:

• manual, tightened by hand;
• key, wrapped with a key.

In recent years, household drill models have been equipped with a manual (quick-release) chuck - it is simpler in design and quicker to operate.

To install the drill in the chuck you need to follow these steps:

1. Turn the cartridge counterclockwise. The jaws should move apart to a distance slightly larger than the diameter of the drill.
2. Insert the drill bit between the jaws until it stops.
3. Smoothly turn the chuck clockwise, making sure that the drill is clamped evenly on all sides.
4. Tighten the jaws by hand or with a wrench.

Attention! Before drilling, turn on the drill and look at the drill bit. A correctly installed tool does not hit and looks like a smooth line.

Video: how to insert a drill and secure it

When fixing the drill in the chuck, considerable force can be applied, especially if the drill has a large diameter. It should be remembered that you will then have to do the reverse operation to remove the drill or replace it with another one. While clamping the drill, look for “ golden mean": fasten the drill securely, but so that it can be removed from the chuck without any problems. The required effort is easily determined after a little practice - muscle memory kicks in.

How to remove a drill from a chuck?

Before removing the drill, make sure that the drill is unplugged from the outlet and ensure that you do not accidentally press the start button of the cordless tool. The drill should be pulled out only after the rotation of the chuck has completely stopped.

Attention! Never brake the chuck with your hands, as this may cause injury.

If the drill is equipped with a keyless chuck, the steps to remove the drill are as follows:

1. Remove your finger from the start button.
2. Wait until the rotation of the chuck has completely stopped.
3. Grasp the cartridge by the base with one hand. With your other hand, turn it counterclockwise.
4. When the jaws of the chuck have moved far enough apart, remove the drill.
5. Carefully place the drill on the table, making sure that it does not roll away.

If the drill is equipped with a keyed chuck, do the following:

1. Turn off the drill and wait for the chuck to stop.
2. Insert the key into the chuck hole.
3. Turn the key counterclockwise so that it moves the cartridge.
4. Unscrew the chuck by hand so that the jaws release the drill.
5. Remove the drill from the chuck.
6. Place the key in the hole on the wire so it doesn't get lost.

Video: how to change a drill

How to use a drill correctly?

A drill is a powerful electrical tool that is a source of danger. Basic Rules safe work with a drill the following:

• Before starting work, securely secure the workpiece in a vice or clamps. Do not hold the part in your hands.
• Firmly secure the drill or accessory in the chuck. Tighten the cartridge by hand or tighten it with a wrench. Be sure to remove the key from the hole in the socket.
• When working with hard and massive materials, hold the power tool with both hands.
• Do not press too hard on the drill body to prevent the drill from jamming. Reduce the pressure on the drill exiting the workpiece.
• Use personal protective equipment: glasses, respirator, gloves.
• Switch modes and change tools only after the chuck has completely stopped.
• Sweep away chips only with a brush.

How to make a vertical or horizontal hole

To make a vertical or horizontal hole, you need to follow these steps:

1. Mark the location for the hole.
2. Install a drill of the required diameter into the chuck.
3. Bring the tool and set the drill to the mark.
4. Smoothly start the engine and press on the drill body.
5. When the hole is ready, remove the drill without turning off the motor.
6. Release the start button and wait for the cartridge to stop.
7. Place the drill on a flat surface.

Attention! You cannot be distracted from work until the hole is completely ready.

How to make a hole perpendicular to the surface or at an angle

If you need to make a hole perpendicular to the surface, you can use a protractor or square. Home craftsmen have figured out how to drill a hole at a 90-degree angle to a surface without a protractor. An old CD is placed on the surface of the workpiece. The drill is aligned so that the visible part of the drill coincides with its reflection in the “mirror” of the disk. In this case, the hole will be made strictly perpendicular to the surface.

When the drill is perpendicular to the surface, the line of the drill matches its reflection in the CD

If you want the hole to go at an angle to the surface, you need to secure the workpiece at this angle. The most accurate holes will come out if you use a special stand-clamp for a drill.

Angle stand secures drill at an angle

How to drill metal

Drilling metal surfaces has its own characteristics. First of all, you need to choose a drill designed for these purposes. A wood or stone drill bit is not suitable for metal, stainless steel or cast iron. These drills differ not only in the grade of steel, but also in the sharpening angle of the cutting edge.

When working, there is no need to rotate the drill at high speed; the drill will slide along the surface without catching the material. The optimal speed when drilling metal is low, when the naked eye can see how thin chips are formed. The pressure on the drill can be significant, but within reasonable limits so that the drill does not break. When drilling steel and cast iron, it is recommended to lubricate the drill with machine oil for cooling.

To ensure that the drill catches on solid material, it is recommended to make a recess at the drilling point with a plumber's core. The drill will not move to the side.

How to drill concrete

When drilling concrete, stone or brick, a lot of dust is released, and small fragments can fly out from under the drill. It is necessary to use a respirator to protect the respiratory system and goggles to protect the eyes.

Advice. You can reduce the amount of dust by moistening the workpiece or drilling site with water.

If you need to drill concrete, then the best option There will be the use of drills equipped with pobedite soldering at the end. These drills do the job best and can be sharpened periodically as needed.

The impact mode is included in the design of the drill for drilling stone objects. You need to use the shock mode carefully. If you are drilling into tiles, you should not turn it on, as the impact will inevitably lead to cracking of the ceramics. The same can be said about hollow brick - it is dense, but fragile.

Attention! When drilling stone and concrete, the drill becomes very hot. Before replacing the tool, wait until it has cooled down to avoid getting burned.

How to drill wood

Wood is a soft and easy-to-drill material that can be easily processed and sanded. When drilling wooden products, it is recommended to use special wood drills.

It is best to start work with markings, marking the location for the hole with a pencil. Next, resting the end of the drill on the intended point, turn on the maximum rotation speed and smoothly immerse the drill into the wood. If the hole is deep, from time to time you need to pull the rotating drill to the surface so that it can free itself from the chips.

Often in modern life you may be faced with the need to make a hole in plastic. Basically, plastic is drilled in the same way as wood, since it is a soft material. Some synthetic materials (for example, ebonite, textolite, caprolon) have great hardness. To process such plastics, it is better to use drills designed for metal.

How to make a groove in a wooden board

If you need to make a groove in a wooden board, this can be done with an electric drill.

The groove in the board is made with an electric drill

To make a groove, you need to do the following steps:

1. Take a wood drill whose diameter corresponds to the width of the future groove.
2. Mark holes along the groove so that their centers are at a distance of half the diameter of the drill.
3. Drill all holes to a depth of 2–3 mm - this way the drill will not lead away.
4. Drill all holes all the way through.
5. Use a file to remove the jumpers (if any remain) and smooth out any irregularities.

Brick is a fairly soft material, so drilling it can be done with a conventional electric drill with a hammer function.

A simple drill can drill through brick

Drilling brick wall is done as follows:

1. Mark the location of the future hole with a pencil or marker.
2. Place a core or old drill on the mark.
3. Apply 2-3 blows with a hammer so that a depression remains on the brick - then the drill will not move away.
4. Place the drill in the drill and turn on the impact mode.
5. Drill a hole by gently pressing the tool.

Note. If the finished hole needs to be more than 10 mm, it is recommended to first drill the hole with a drill of a smaller diameter - 6–8 mm, and then drill it to the desired diameter.

Video: drilling a brick wall

Basic drill malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

No matter how perfect the technology, sooner or later, there comes a time when the technological resource is exhausted, and one or another part requires replacement.

An electric drill is no exception. Here is a list of possible, most common problems:

1. Motor malfunction (power supply is OK, but the motor does not rotate).
2. Wear or burning of the carbon brushes (the brushes spark strongly when the device is operating).
3. Failure of the engine support bearings (the hum of the motor is heard, but there is no rotation, or the cartridge rotates intermittently, with a grinding noise).

In addition, the reasons for the unstable operation of the electric drill may be related to the integrity of the power cord or a stuck start button. Such problems can be solved by replacing the cable and preventively cleaning the button from debris and dust.

To repair a drill at home, you will need many special tools, including electrical ones. If they are not there, it is cheaper to send the drill for repairs to service center. Replacing carbon brushes is within the capabilities of a home craftsman. In all new drill models, the designers have provided quick access to the brush attachment point and easy replacement.

The brushes are hidden under a cover above the engine commutator.

Drill attachments and their installation

In addition to drilling holes, an electric drill is capable of performing many other diverse operations. For this purpose, various attachments have been developed and produced, with which you can grind, polish, cut or sharpen. All attachments are attached to the drill chuck, just like a regular drill.

Polishing attachment

Designed for polishing surfaces using abrasive materials. This can be sandpaper or a felt base onto which GOI paste is applied. The nozzle is a rotating flat surface, which is used to process the sanded material.

Replaceable sheets of sandpaper are attached with Velcro

Attachments for rough cleaning of materials

Wire attachments (brush brushes) are used to clean metal surfaces (for example, pipes). They are a cylinder on the surface of which there are rigid bristles made of metal wire. They are produced with bristles of different hardness, ranging from thin wire to pieces of cable.

The bristles of the brushes are made of galvanized wire

Cricket attachment

The attachment, called a “cricket,” turns the drill into metal nibblers.

The nozzle is clamped into the drill chuck - metal scissors are ready

Using a “cricket” you can cut holes in metal sheets up to 1.6 mm thick. The attachment has proven itself very well in roofing work when it is necessary to adjust and cut metal sheets given form.

Video: metal scissor attachment “Cricket”

Nozzle - file

A nozzle made of abrasive material can significantly facilitate work when performing work on sharpening parts, fitting grooves and holes. Represented by a wide range sharpening stones various shapes and sizes. Among the nozzles there are conical, cylindrical, flat, spherical stones.

Despite their miniature size, the attachments are very effective in their work.

Milling attachments

Drill attachments designed for milling work on wood or plastic are also called cutters. With their help, you can make a groove, groove, recess of specified dimensions.

Balls are available in different shapes and sizes

According to their shape and purpose, cutters are divided into:

• cylindrical;
• disk;
• end and end;
• shaped.

The type of cutter is selected according to a specific task in accordance with the density of the material and the power of the electric drill.

Other attachments

For cutting materials

There is an attachment that can be used to cut wood, metal or plastic. The operating principle of its mechanism is similar to that of an electric jigsaw. The kit includes a set of files with various shapes and number of teeth. This attachment can easily handle cutting wooden boards up to 20 mm thick, as well as chipboard or plywood. For cutting more massive workpieces, it is still better to use a jigsaw.

For drilling large holes

Available for drilling large diameter holes special devices and tools that can be used as accessories for an electric drill. To make large holes use:

• crowns - steel cylinders with teeth or coating - for wood, stone or tiles;
• feather drills - metal plates with a center and two blades - for wood and plywood;
• beam drills - long pins with spiral grooves - for drilling thick wooden beams;
• Forstner drills - a specially shaped tool with numerous cutting edges - for precise and clean holes in wood.

For tightening fasteners

Drill attachments designed for screwing in screws, bolts and nuts have become widespread and widely used. Their diversity is comparable only to the huge range of products that exists in the world of fasteners. With these attachments, provided that the speed range of the drill includes low-speed modes, the electric drill turns into a full-fledged screwdriver or impact wrench.

Set of attachments for screwing screws and nuts

Drill mixer

We also cannot ignore such a useful practical function of an electric drill as using it as a mixer when mixing paints, plaster and other mixtures.

Using a special mixing whisk, you can successfully add the desired shade to paint at home or stir wallpaper glue. In addition, light building mixtures plaster or putty can also be mixed using a drill.

It should be remembered that excessive overloads on the drill can damage the main mechanism of the tool - the electric motor. It is not recommended to use a drill as a mixer when mixing heavy concrete mixtures. There are special concrete mixers and mixers for this purpose.

Attention! If the drill body is hot and the motor is humming strainedly, you should stop and give the device time to cool down.

Drilling machine

The drill can be used as a drilling machine. Drilling workpieces will be much more convenient. Stores sell ready-made stands with a drill clamp, feed lever and vice.

Drill stand turns a household tool into a drilling machine

You can make a drilling machine from an electric drill with your own hands. Such a machine consists of a bed, a vertical stand, a rotation mechanism and a feeder. Despite the simplicity of the design, the machine significantly increases the accuracy of processing parts.

Video: do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill

Among the numerous attachments for electric drills produced by industry, there are also such “exotic” specimens as a pump attachment for pumping liquids or a special attachment for plucking feathers poultry. IN Everyday life they are not as often in demand as carpentry and locksmith tool, which is used in almost every home.

An electric drill can save you money and energy. For home and occasional work, you do not need to buy several professional machines. Special attachments will make the tool universal: drilling and cutting, grinding and turning, kneading and chiselling - this is not a complete list of operations available for the drill. To make work a joy, you must follow safety rules

December 04, 2016 No comments

Drill is one of the most popular tools in household. Without it, it is impossible to complete most of even the most basic work.

A modern electric drill is designed primarily for drilling, the most common type of carpentry work. “Smart” electronics, several operating modes, and improved ergonomics make it a high-performance tool, and working with it is convenient and tireless. The use of additional equipment turns the drill into a universal tool with which you can perform a variety of jobs.

1 - switch with speed controller; 2 - reverse; 3 - electric motor; 4 - impeller for cooling; 5 - mode switch; 6 - gearbox; 7 - cartridge.

Drills are divided into household and professional. For constant operation choose a powerful tool that can withstand heavy loads and work for a long time without interruption - about 6-8 hours daily.

Household options usually have a power in the range of 350-800 W and are designed to work no more than 3-4 hours a day according to a one-to-one scheme: after 15-20 minutes of use, you need to take a break for the same amount of time.

As practice shows, at home, a drill rarely works for more than 30 minutes a year; the most suitable power for such a device is 500-800 W. Purchasing a more expensive tool is justified when there is a large volume of work.

Most modern household models include an additional removable handle, which allows you to securely hold the drill with both hands when performing heavy work - for example, drilling holes in a concrete wall. A stop is often installed on it, limiting the depth of drilling holes to the required one. To improve visibility of the work area, many drills are equipped with a bright LED backlight. The speed regulator is important when drilling holes in different materials, but it is also useful when using a drill as a screwdriver. Thanks to the reverse function, you can both tighten and unscrew the fasteners.

There are two types of chucks: key and quick-clamping. In the key version, the drill is secured with a special key - this fastening is more reliable and it is no coincidence that it is the one that is usually used on powerful impact drills. Quick-release chucks are divided into single- and double-clutch chucks. In the former, it is easy to secure the drill even with one hand. Secondly, you need to tighten the cartridge with both hands, which is less convenient.

Each type of drill is designed to process a specific material. There are drills for wood, metal, stone, and plastic. Some drills are suitable for drilling different materials. Yes, drills from high speed steel successfully used for drilling holes in wood, metal and plastic.

However, to drill, for example, holes for dowels in a stone or concrete wall, you will need more durable carbide drills. Large holes in wooden parts are drilled with hole saws with a replaceable annular working part. To accurately drill holes in wood, drills with a guide center are used.

If spiral or screw drills for wood do not fit in diameter, use simple center and universal (sliding) drills or Forstner drills. For deep drilling, auger drills are used.

Sample set of drills for a home workshop.

1. Three-cutter ballerina (circular adjustable drill bit) for drilling large holes in tiles.
2. Hole saw.
3. Set of metal drills.
4. Set of twist drills for wood.
5. Set of universal high-speed steel drills.
6. Flat-blade drill bits for wood, plasterboard and plastic.
7. A set of flat drills (points) for wood.

Additional equipment

Many additional devices make working with a drill easier and contribute to better drilling.

Others - allow you to perform different kinds works

Twist drills are mainly used for drilling metal workpieces. When drilling holes, it is better to install an electric drill in a drill stand. To prevent the drill from moving to the side when cutting in, the drilling point must be marked. When drilling holes in metal workpieces, the drill becomes very hot and may even lose its cutting properties due to a decrease in hardness.

The drill is protected from overheating with coolants.

For simultaneous lubrication and cooling of drills, combined cutting fluids (coolants) are used. Paste-like cooling compounds (such exist) are applied to the drill before drilling. Liquid lubricant can be injected into the hole being drilled from a syringe or hand oiler during the drilling process, or applied with a brush to the drill, removing it from time to time from the hole. When drilling steel, aluminum, copper and bronze, a special emulsion is used to lubricate and cool drills. Kerosene is suitable for the same purposes when drilling brass and aluminum alloys. In gray
In cast iron, holes are drilled dry.

At home, in the absence of special lubricants and cooling agents, you can use machine oil.

Hammer drill

Conventional drills are effective when working at quite soft materials, for example wood. On concrete they give up - impact drills are needed here. The chuck with the clamped drill of such a tool, in addition to rotational movements, also performs translational movements.

As a result, productivity increases - and holes in stronger materials are drilled without problems. Of course, if necessary, the shock function can be disabled. It is important to note that an impact drill is still not intended for large volumes of work with hard materials. In such cases, a hammer drill should be used.

Lightweight and compact devices designed for working in hard-to-reach places are usually purchased by professionals. The instrument is equipped bevel gear. Angle drills are not impact drills, and their power is low. However, for working in difficult conditions it is possible to use contra-angle attachment with a regular drill.