Do-it-yourself insulation of the bathhouse ceiling from the inside. Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: thermal insulation of concrete, stone, brick structures. Insulation of steam room walls
The technology for insulating a bathhouse involves three successive stages: then the walls and, lastly, the floor. The technology is, in general, the same for all types of buildings, but there are some features. In this article we will try to figure out how to properly insulate walls in a bathhouse.
Before starting work, be sure to eliminate all defects: seal and insulate the cracks, treat the walls with fire retardants and antiseptics, if you think necessary, check the tightness of the connections, etc. After finishing preparatory work You can begin installing thermal insulation.
The pie itself general case looks like that:
- a wall on which bars are packed;
- heat insulator laid between the bars;
- vapor barrier;
- a lathing made of planks that holds materials and serves for installation of finishing.
Main conclusions:
- There is no need to leave a gap between the insulation and aluminum foil in the bathhouse;
- It is advisable to leave a gap between the aluminum foil (or other foil material) and the lining so that condensate can flow down freely. Otherwise, the lining will rot very quickly.
We tightly lay the heat insulator between the bars. The thickness of the insulation corresponds to the thickness of the bars You also need to decide on the direction in which the bars will be nailed to the wall. They can be nailed vertically and horizontally. Moreover, there are constantly debates about how to do this better. Some builders claim that when horizontal position heat insulator, and therefore the bars, there is less heat loss. Their opponents say that vertical placement provides better ventilation. What is more important is that everyone chooses for themselves, as well as whether or not the bars need to be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
Advice! It makes sense to think not about how to fasten the bars, but first of all about how the lining will be fastened: horizontally or vertically. It is more practical to mount the lining horizontally. In this case, condensation, which will inevitably form on the vapor barrier, will be able to flow down without hindrance, so the sheathing under the lining will be attached vertically.
The pitch of filling the bars under the insulation is determined by the width of the selected heat insulator: the distance between the bars should be approximately 1 cm less than the actual width of the insulation(in this case the insulation will fit tightly to the bars).
Advice! Be sure to measure the width of the insulation before attaching the bars. Do not trust the data on the packaging: firstly, there may be factory deviations, and secondly, during storage and transportation the edges may wrinkle, thereby reducing the actual width. Any gap or loose heat insulator is a place where cold will penetrate and condensation will form. These areas are also called cold bridges.
Step 2. Insulation is placed tightly between the padded bars, without gaps, with little effort. With the correct distance between the bars, the heat insulator holds well on its own, but to be sure, you can fasten it with hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel screws and washers of large diameter (about the choice of fastening materials for a bathhouse).
If the heat insulator you choose is foil, to ensure tightness, cover each connection with a patch of aluminum tape, and on top you need to secure another piece of foil with an adhesive backing - tightness is very important: most heat insulators lose their properties in the presence of moisture. For example, the thermal conductivity of wet basalt wool is much greater than dry one. For this reason, the insulation should not be allowed to get wet.
In this case, you also need to carefully approach the sealing of the joints of foil thermal insulation and bars: they need to be glued with the same foil tape, ensuring that there is at least 5 cm of overlap on both the insulation and the bars.
For a steam room, the best material to prevent moisture from penetrating into the insulation is foil. It not only retains moisture well, but also reflects heat back into the room, greatly reducing heat loss. If you choose such a material, the time required to heat the room will be significantly reduced, the costs of maintaining the required temperature will be reduced, the stove will operate in a more gentle mode, and therefore will last longer.
In other rooms, you can lay any other material that is suitable for its performance characteristics.
The strips of the selected material are laid so that they overlap by at least 5 cm. All joints are additionally carefully glued using foil tape, which is sold in the same place where vapor barriers are sold. Attach it to the bars using staples and a construction stapler. To maintain tightness and prevent steam from entering the thermal insulation, it is advisable to seal the joints with the same foil tape.
The video below shows how insulation is installed in Finnish sauna and covered with aluminum foil.
When insulating the ceiling, there should be an “entry” of the heat and vapor barrier onto the walls. When installing wall insulation, run it over the top of the wall “pie”, and then carefully seal the joints (use foil tape again).
Step 3. After the installation of the “pie” is completed, a sheathing of planks is stuffed onto the protruding bars. It will hold the materials and also serve as the basis for attaching the interior decoration.
This is what the wall may look like after all the work is completed: 1 - insulation, 2 - vapor barrier, 3 - lining Features of insulating walls made of different materials
The technology and sequence of insulation layers remains virtually unchanged for various rooms and types of buildings. Only some parameters can be changed. For example, for the steam room, the thickness of the insulation is recommended to be twice as thick as for other rooms: This is where it is very important to retain heat for the maximum amount of time.
The thickness of the insulation also differs for buildings made of different materials. A log bathhouse itself retains heat well, and when decorating all rooms except the steam room, you can do without insulation at all, or choose a material of small thickness - if the winters in your region are harsh.
The video below explains why there is no need to additionally insulate the walls log bathhouse(plot of the program “Manor”).
Wall insulation brick bath from the inside There is practically no difference, except for the fastening methods: it is more difficult to drive nails into a brick wall; you can use dowels. You can use galvanized profiles instead of wooden blocks, but when purchasing them, pay attention to the fact that they are suitable for use in rooms with high humidity. And the choice of sizes is much more difficult here: there are not many standard sizes, and metal can become a conductor of cold. Insulation brick walls a bathhouse from the inside requires a greater thickness of thermal insulation than in a bathhouse made of logs: minimum – 10 cm, but this parameter depends on many factors: wall thickness, external insulation, region, etc.
Insulation of bathhouse walls made of foam blocks the composition of the “pie” is no different. The whole difficulty is that this material does not hold fastenings well, even special ones. It tolerates excessive loads no better. Therefore, when choosing materials, pay attention to their weight. It should become one of the decisive factors.
The sheathing must be fastened so that the main load falls on the floor and not on the walls. To do this, you can make U-shaped structures that are attached to the floor and ceiling, just fix their position in the walls with a pair of dowels.
Advice! To further reduce the load on foam concrete walls, you can not fasten the slats tightly to the wall, but make clamps from pieces of galvanized steel that will only hold the slats in a vertical position. The entire load will fall on the floor.
Place the insulation tightly between the slats, and you can fix it so that it does not fall using thread and a stapler (shoot the thread against the slats). A vapor barrier or vapor barrier can also be attached to the planks using staples, but do not forget to overlap the panels, glue and seal the joints with foil tape, and cover the staples with patches.
The last stage of insulating the walls of a bathhouse made of foam blocks is the installation of lathing under interior decoration. This is a similar frame made of U-shaped sections, the load from which is distributed mainly on the floor. This frame is attached to the first one in several places to the bars.
This is only one solution that allows you to insulate the walls of a bathhouse made of foam blocks, but it is simple to implement and quite reliable.
Materials for bath insulation
Choosing a material for insulation is a rather complex process: you need to take into account not only specifications insulation materials but also their environmental friendliness, harmlessness, and fire safety. It is especially problematic to choose the right insulation for a steam room, since it not only has high humidity, but also heat, which causes the release of toxic substances from some types of insulation.
Classic mineral wool
Not so long ago, almost everyone advised using mineral wool to insulate a bath, but latest research showed that in production, a composition containing phenol-formaldehyde resins. They have a harmful effect on humans, they are a carcinogenic substance, which in itself is unacceptable, and in a bath or sauna with its high temperature it is generally very dangerous. Yes, the certificates indicate that the release of these substances does not exceed the threshold, but do you need it?
Even basalt wool"Rockwool" or "TechnoNIKOL", any other mineral wool manufacturers known or not, releases phenol-formaldehyde substances. In general, according to doctors and experts, any mineral wool is harmful to health. In this regard, the question arises: “what is the best way to insulate a bathhouse?” There are several materials about which negative opinions No. At least for now...
New generation mineral insulation
URSA PUREONE material is presented as a new generation of mineral insulation. Acrylic is used as a binder - a chemically neutral substance that does not react with other substances and does not emit harmful substances under any operating conditions.
URSA PUREONE material is one of the harmless insulation materials The safety of URSA PUREONE is confirmed by the EcoStandard group (classified as an M1 Eurofins material, EUCEB certified).
Insulation made of glass, peat and paper
FOAMGLAS® foam glass is foamed glass. It does not burn, does not lose its properties over time, is stable in shape, environmentally friendly and safe. Its only drawback: high price and quite heavy weight.
There are also insulation based on peat - peat blocks . The crushed peat is soaked in water, filler is added - straw, sawdust, etc., and blocks are formed from the resulting mushy mass, which are used as a heat and sound insulator. The resulting material not only reduces heat loss, but is also a “breathable” material - it absorbs moisture well and also releases moisture well, has a bacteriostatic effect, does not burn or rot.
Despite all positive traits peat blocks are not the most common material, and there are few manufacturers of this material. The most famous is the GeoCar company from Tver. If all the declared qualities are confirmed, then this is a good alternative to mineral wool.
There is also such a heat insulator as ecowool . This is a cellulose substance for the most part consisting of recycled newspapers to which safe (according to the manufacturers) fire retardants have been added – boric acid and borax salts. Everything would be fine, but this material strongly absorbs moisture and is not suitable for thermal insulation of a bathhouse.
Fiberboards - are made from crushed wood chips, but using a different technology than the well-known fiberboard - without chemical binders. The wood chips are ground, diluted with water, and distributed over a grid. The mass simply dries, after which it is cut into sheets.
Among the safe insulation materials one can also name natural insulation materials made from flax, wool, moss, and reeds. Sawdust, reeds and straw are also used as insulating material. But all these substances are flammable, and without treatment with special compounds they cannot be used to insulate a bathhouse.
Modern foil insulation
In this article we could not help but talk about what modern insulation materials Finns use it in the construction of saunas. Hot Finnish guys use insulation boards SPU Sauna-Satu, specially designed for insulating walls and ceilings in a sauna.
SPU Sauna Satu slabs are made of polyurethane foam and have an aluminum laminate coating on both sides.
SPU Sauna-Satu stove SPU Sauna Satu slabs can be attached to walls even without lathing. The process of attaching slabs to stone walls And wooden sheathing ceiling is shown in the video.
On this moment, it is the SPU Sauna Satu slabs that can be considered the most suitable insulation materials for baths and saunas.
conclusions
The main problems of insulating a bathhouse are related to the insulation of the steam room, since it not only has very high humidity, but also high temperature. Under the influence of high temperatures, many insulation materials begin to release toxic substances that can harm human health. For this reason, it is necessary to carefully select mineral wool-based insulation, since many of them contain phenol-formaldehyde resins, which act as a binder.
You should not use foam and polystyrene foam as insulation, which when heated to 60 degrees Celsius begin to release toxic substances.
In fairness, it should be noted that many, harmless when normal temperature natural materials, when heated, can release substances that can be harmful to human health.
The warmer the sauna itself is, the less wood will be consumed to heat it and the longer the heat will be retained in it. In general, insulating a bathhouse is a complex process. And the relaxation room, steam room and dressing room can be insulated in completely different ways: due to their constant microclimate. So how to properly insulate a bathhouse? Let's figure it out.
Insulating a bathhouse from the inside: photos, diagrams and videos
So, how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside, depending on what material it was built from.
Features of log house thermal insulation
For a long time, no one has ever insulated a log bathhouse - not even the floors. Just changed the logs from time to time and repaired them lower crowns. But today, when good log house and a real Russian steam room is almost a rarity; the question of high-quality insulation is far from the last. After all, its longevity depends on how protected the bathhouse is from moisture and cold.
In general, insulation in wooden bath it is necessary only when the dimensions of the timber are small; in all other cases, caulking and good waterproofing are sufficient. For internal insulation Steam baths made of timber use a traditional “pie” with mineral wool - except that the thickness of the working layer itself can be 2 times less than for a steam room made of brick.
Brick bathhouse and its insulation
How to insulate a bathhouse made of foam, cinder blocks and concrete
Cinder blocks and foam blocks themselves have quite good thermal insulation materials due to its porous structure. But here they are freezing in winter time after all, they can, and therefore it is necessary to additionally insulate the block bathhouse. Otherwise, all its walls will be pleased with unaesthetic dark damp spots in frosty weather.
Mineral wool and fiberglass are most suitable for such a bath. But in general, the whole pie must be covered reliable vapor barrier– they really don’t like any blocks high humidity in the air, and they absorb water like sponges. In general, it can be used as insulation and foam.
The first task when insulating aerated concrete walls baths means removing the icy mass of concrete from the heating circuit. Why should the frame inside the entire structure be made indented from the walls? Moreover, the resulting space must be well ventilated - for this, at the top of the bathhouse and at the bottom you need to make outside special vent windows. During bath procedures, they need to be closed, and while drying the bath, they need to be opened. And then the usual “pie” of insulation in the steam room and washing room is made. The most standard one looks like this: an aerated concrete or block wall - a frame for insulation with an indentation from the wall - insulation - a board - vapor barrier where the steam room is - finishing with aspen or cedar boards. Thus, the ice walls do not have to be heated - that’s all the tricks.
Rules for insulating a frame bath
Option two: the insulation of a frame bath occurs according to this scheme. A vapor barrier made of parchment (or roofing felt, or roofing felt) is laid directly on the frame, which is secured by wood sheathing. Between the resulting internal and external walls you need to put polystyrene foam, fiberboard boards or heat-insulating reed boards. All this is covered on all sides with layers of asbestos cement, which makes the frame bath both stronger and warmer.
More insulation frame bath can be done using sawdust, gypsum and wood chips. All this is mixed with lime in a ratio of ten to one and laid in a thick layer between the outer and internal lining. The main thing is that the sawdust is well dried and the layers are treated with iron sulfate.
Features of ceiling and floor insulation
For pre-bath and washing room the baths are ideal ceramic tile– but there should also be thermal insulation underneath. Here is the most common scheme for insulating the floor in a bathhouse: a cranial block is sewn to the beams, on which a subfloor made of boards is laid. After this comes a layer of vapor barrier, and then the space between the beams must be filled with the selected heat-insulating material - expanded polystyrene or expanded clay, for example.
On top of this is placed reinforced metal grid and is poured concrete screed. After the latter has dried, the floor is waterproofed with waterproofing. Again the screed is 3-5 cm thick and a heated floor system can be built in if desired. And finally, ceramic tiles are laid on the screed.
But in the steam room and relaxation room, the floor must be made of wood - so that the so-called “heat stroke” does not occur.
Making a “pie” when insulating the ceiling
Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside always begins from the ceiling - after all, the highest temperature is always at its level, and therefore this part of the steam room needs to be given special attention. The ceiling should be arranged as follows: vapor barrier - insulation - sheathing - beams - ceiling boards.
If the attic or the second floor in the bathhouse is residential, then the insulation cake will look a little different: the ceiling boards need to be smeared with clay in a two-centimeter layer and covered with wood chips up to 20 cm, either with expanded clay or use some kind of insulation. The main thing is that it is the right thickness.
This is how a bathhouse is insulated from foam blocks, logs and bricks. Each type of structure has its own technology, and knowing at least its basics will help you always keep your steam room warm.
Owners of suburban areas where steam rooms have been built are probably wondering how to insulate the baths from the inside with their own hands, so that you can stay and relax in them truly comfortably at any time of the year.
As you know, today baths are made from a variety of materials, all kinds of designs and shapes, but in each of them they strive, first of all, to provide effective thermal insulation.
It is high quality and good thermal insulation everyone interior spaces is prerequisite for each such building.
A brick, frame, timber, cinder block or foam block bathhouse can be insulated both from the outside and from the inside, but many experts recommend carrying out all the work in its internal space.
Of course, every room in the bathhouse should be provided with effective thermal insulation, but first of all you need to pay attention to the steam room.
The insulation scheme can be very different, including using different materials.
It is best to insulate the walls, ceiling, and floor of the bathhouse at the same time, using only high-quality material.
In order for the internal microclimate in the bathhouse to be truly beneficial to health, it is necessary to properly arrange its thermal insulation and this can be done both from the outside and from the inside.
Despite the fact that this process is quite lengthy and labor-intensive, since it is necessary to properly process both the walls and the ceiling, you can do all the work yourself.
At the same time, before starting all work, you should correctly assess your capabilities and thoroughly study the technology for carrying out the work.
When choosing any material as insulation, first of all, you should pay attention to its practicality and quality characteristics.
A brick, frame, timber or cinder block bathhouse is insulated according to the same principle.
In any case, the walls and ceiling from the inside must be vapor- and waterproofed, protected from fire and be environmentally safe.
Currently, both natural and artificial insulation.
In the case when the main emphasis during insulation is on environmental friendliness, then you should choose only natural materials, such as moss, felt, tow, and so on.
It should be noted that if the walls and ceiling in the bathhouse are insulated using natural materials, they will first have to be treated with special compounds to prevent the subsequent formation of mold, mildew, and the appearance of insects.
Some natural insulation materials can be seen in the photo below. A simpler option is to insulate the bathhouse from the inside using artificial materials.
As a rule, such insulation materials have fire resistance, good vapor barrier and are not subject to rotting and decomposition processes.
In addition, installing them is quite easy to do with your own hands. Artificial insulation can be used to insulate both brick and frame bathhouses, as well as those built from cinder block or timber.
Some artificial insulation materials are shown in the photo above. More details about how to insulate the walls and ceiling of a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands are described in the video posted in our article.
Material selection
Before you insulate a frame bathhouse or one built from timber or cinder block with your own hands from the inside or outside, you should first decide on the material that will be used for these purposes.
We must pay attention not only to its naturalness and safety, but also to its purpose, as well as appearance and, of course, the price.
By mechanical characteristics All existing insulation can be roughly divided into various backfills, blocks, slabs, mats and plates.
Insulation materials may also differ in some of their chemical properties.
Thus, there are organic and inorganic origins, technical insulation materials, as well as insulation materials based on certain plastics. Each of these materials has both its advantages and disadvantages.
For example, those materials that are based on plastics are best used for outdoor work.
In turn, those materials that are of organic origin can be used only after special processing.
More versatile and practical are those materials that are of inorganic origin. They are equally suitable for work both inside and outside the bathhouse.
For example, when insulating a steam room, it is better not to use polystyrene foam and similar materials. For these purposes, you can use mineral wool.
When carrying out work to insulate the space of a bathhouse from the inside, you should not forget about its vapor barrier. As a material, you can opt for roofing felt, glassine, and aluminum foil.
These materials protect the bathhouse space well from the inside, are fire-resistant and safe for health.
In any case, before you insulate a frame bathhouse or one built from timber or cinder block with your own hands, you need to carefully study the properties of each material and choose the most optimal one.
You can see more details about how to effectively insulate a bathhouse in the video posted in the section.
Wall insulation
As a rule, the insulation of a bath is carried out in a complex, using several different components.
The most common scheme for insulating a bathhouse involves the simultaneous use of fibrous types of insulation and lining.
In order to implement it, it is necessary to first make a kind of frame on the surface of the walls in the form of a sheathing made of timber.
After this, it is necessary to lay a layer of vapor barrier, and for these purposes it is best to use aluminum foil. Next, the entire surface is covered with fire-resistant lining.
This method of insulating a bathhouse from the inside is the most effective and common. Its disadvantages include duration and high labor intensity.
Currently, you can find insulation for baths that simultaneously combine vapor barrier and waterproofing properties.
Their use greatly simplifies the process of insulating a bathhouse and reduces the amount of work. To such universal materials This includes, for example, foil foam.
If the walls in the bathhouse are made of any panels, then it is best to use those insulation materials that have a relatively low weight, such as reed slabs or polystyrene foam.
In this case, they will additionally have to be treated with special compounds that will increase their fire-resistant properties.
It is best to insulate the frame surfaces of walls in a bathhouse with special slabs made from fiberboard or reeds.
In any case, the use of insulation in the form of blocks that have the appropriate characteristics makes the work easier.
Ceiling insulation
At the final stage of insulating the bathhouse, it is necessary to properly insulate its ceiling.
It should be noted here that it is the ceiling of the bathhouse that experiences the highest temperature, which means that only fire-resistant materials should be used.
If the bathhouse has an attic, then first the ceiling boards should be treated with ordinary clay, which will retain moisture.
Also outside the ceiling in attic space As insulation, you can use polystyrene foam in the form of blocks, which should be laid tightly and all seams hermetically sealed.
For those baths that do not have an attic, the ceiling insulation scheme is slightly different from the previous one. In this case, the materials used should be laid in layers.
For example, to begin with, a vapor barrier is attached to the surface, followed by insulation and a layer of sheathing.
The procedure may change, but in any case, the technology for insulating the bathhouse ceiling should always remain the same.
When insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse, special attention should be paid to the place through which the chimney pipe passes.
At the joints, it is imperative to make an indent and separate the insulation material from the surface of the pipe.
In any case, it is only necessary to insulate the bathhouse from the inside quality materials, which have the appropriate characteristics.
More details about how to insulate a bathhouse from the inside are described in the video posted in the article.
A visit to the bathhouse is a pleasant and useful pastime, and high-quality insulation baths from the inside will significantly improve all its characteristics. Thanks to the thermal insulation of the walls and ceiling of the steam room from the inside, you can simultaneously save on fuel material and ensure the preservation of heat in the room.
Why is insulating a bathhouse from the inside a good idea?
The bathhouse has a unique microclimate, so thermal insulation is an important aspect in the proper arrangement of any bathhouse. Insulating the walls of a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands, as well as the ceiling in principle, is a labor-intensive process, but nothing is impossible. When insulating a steam room, several factors should be taken into account: the material used for internal insulation, your capabilities, skills and desires. The choice of material for insulation should be based on its quality characteristics. Required properties must be:
- vapor barrier;
- waterproofing
- fire resistance;
- environmental friendliness of the material.
There is a division of insulation into natural and artificial. If you strive for authenticity and environmental friendliness when building a steam room, then naturalness is your choice. Natural insulation materials include moss, cuckoo flax, felt, hemp, tow, sphagnum, etc. Such materials have their own disadvantages in operation. Without proper processing by special means Insects and mold will appear.
It is much easier to insulate a bathhouse from the inside with your own hands by using artificial materials. They have the best performance qualities: fire-resistant, not subject to rotting, copes well with the task of vapor barrier. Installation of such insulation will take less time than installation of natural materials.
Materials for insulating a bathhouse from the inside: what to add to your shopping list?
Buying insulation for a bath comes down not only to the ability to choose natural or artificial materials, you should also take into account some factors: the purpose of the materials, appearance and price. Depending on the mechanical properties, materials for thermal insulation can be divided as follows:
- backfills of various densities;
- mats, plates, fibers;
- wall blocks and slabs.
By chemical composition insulation materials are distinguished:
- organic (ecowool, fiberboard, wood concrete);
- inorganic (glass wool, mineral wool, basalt fiber);
- techno-insulation materials (technoblock, technovet);
- insulation materials based on plastics (expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam).
All these materials have both advantages and disadvantages. For example, it is better not to use plastic-based insulation to insulate a steam room from the inside. This is due to their easy flammability. But they are well suited for thermal insulation of other rooms in the bathhouse: dressing room, rest room.
Organic substances, in turn, are environmentally friendly and relatively cheap, but without treatment with special means they are also highly flammable. Inorganic substances are more versatile and practical: fire-resistant, durable, moisture-proof, and not susceptible to rotting. This explains the popularity of using mineral wool in insulation.
Materials used for vapor barrier of the bathhouse from the inside:
- roofing felt;
- glassine;
- polyethylene;
- aluminium foil.
Roofing felt and glassine cannot be used for vapor barrier in a steam room, since under the influence of high temperatures they begin to emit harmful chemical substances. Glassine is often used in the insulation of baths, having proven itself well in combination with lining - aluminum foil - mineral wool - log house.
By choosing aluminum foil for the steam room vapor barrier, you will significantly reduce energy costs to maintain the required temperature. The foil, like a mirror, will reflect the heat in the bathhouse.
Operation ‘do-it-yourself insulation of bathhouse walls from the inside’
There is a fairly common, one might say traditional, scheme for insulating walls using fiber insulation and lining.
- It is necessary to create a frame on work surface load-bearing wall. A horizontal and vertical timber sheathing is attached to the wall. The thickness of the timber should exceed the thickness of the insulation itself by 20–30 mm. Such a reserve is necessary so that the insulation layer does not wrinkle, does not slip and retains its properties.
- The wall is covered with mineral wool (or other material of your choice).
- A layer of vapor barrier (foil vapor barrier, foil) is applied on top of the insulation. It needs to be overlapped, the joints are sealed with thin slats. There should be a distance of about 3 cm between the vapor barrier and the mineral wool.
- The lining is placed on a vertical sheathing 30–50 mm wide. The remaining distance thus creates a gap for ventilation.
This method is proven, but labor-intensive. Now Construction Materials can greatly simplify the entire insulation process. Modern heat insulators combine several properties at once: insulation and waterproofing. Foil foam is just such a material. This insulation has high fire resistance and is easy to use and install.
The described scheme is well suited for a timber bathhouse. Panel and frame buildings have their own characteristics of wall insulation. For insulation panel walls Light materials are used: polystyrene foam, reed slabs, mineral wool. Additional requirement in this case, the heat insulator is treated with lime milk and then dried thoroughly. This will protect the material from rotting and increase fire resistance.
Bath with frame walls in cold climatic conditions insulated with fiberboard or reed slabs. If the area has a warmer climate, then you can use gypsum, sawdust, cement and shavings. To insulate walls, make a mixture, for example, of sawdust and gypsum (proportion 1 to 10). The resulting mixture is poured between wall cladding layer of 200 mm.
Windows, doors, corners and pipes require special attention. To treat the joints in these places, you can use vapor barrier tape. This way you will be sure that the waterproofing layer will not allow moisture to pass through.
Insulating a steam room from the inside: procedure for working on the ceiling
Thermal insulation of the bathhouse from the inside is completed by insulating the ceiling. The ceiling has the highest temperature, which can reach 160 °C. Insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse with your own hands is a process that depends on its design. The ceiling can be with an attic or with another superstructure on top and without an attic.
If the building has an attic or attic, the insulation process is as follows: the ceiling boards must be coated with a 20 mm layer of clay. Clay effectively copes with the task of retaining moisture. You need to fill the cracks between the boards with wood chips. You can use any other material that has thermal insulation properties, such as expanded clay. The layer of such coating must be at least 200 mm.
In bathhouses without an attic, be it a log or panel building, the insulation scheme looks something like this: material for vapor barrier, insulation, layer of sheathing, beams, ceiling boards. The order of the layers of ceiling insulation in a bathhouse with your own hands will be different depending on the design of the room and the materials used.
Particular attention should always be paid to the junction of the pipe and insulation. To avoid breaking the rules fire safety, it is necessary to make a space of 200 mm between the pipe and the heat-insulating material. This problem can be solved by constructing rafter legs a box that will separate the pipe and insulation on the roof. The space inside the box is filled with fire-resistant insulation, such as stone wool.
In any case, the roof and ceiling of your bathhouse must be designed so that there are simply no places through which warm air can leave the room, and the cold one can get outside. The main goal is also to avoid condensation. Moisture is, first of all, the enemy of building materials.
Not all materials are suitable for ceiling insulation. It is not recommended to use thermal insulation made of plywood, chipboard or fiberboard, etc. Similar materials may become deformed and release harmful substances under the influence of high temperatures. Plastic ceilings
will also be a bad solution - condensation will accumulate on them. It is better to use natural insulation or mineral heat insulators.
Have you decided to insulate the bathhouse from the inside yourself, but you have no experience in this matter? Help and advice from specialists will always come in handy. Check out the available information: photos, videos, master classes on this issue. All this can be useful. The following recommendations for insulating a bathhouse with your own hands will not be amiss:
- It must be remembered that the insulation of a bathhouse differs from the process of thermal insulation of other buildings. This is due to high temperature and humidity.
- When insulating the walls of a bathhouse from the inside, a number of rules should be followed:
- In order to avoid the appearance of cracks and voids, insulation must be laid very tightly to the wall. Thus, the likelihood of cold air entering and the formation of condensation moisture will be reduced;
- we should not forget about ventilation gap which will ensure drying of the insulation;
- it is necessary to treat the floors with a wood antiseptic to protect them from destruction.
- When insulating the ceiling, you should not forget that:
- at the top is the highest air temperature;
- To insulate the ceiling, you cannot use materials that can be deformed;
- You cannot use insulation and vapor barriers that release harmful chemicals when exposed to temperature;
- Plastic materials collect condensation moisture.
- When insulating a bath room from the inside, use safe, high-quality and environmentally friendly materials.
- When working, follow safety regulations.
They build baths according to different technologies from different materials. Inner like necessary element baths, depends on it common device. Brick and foam block baths require mandatory insulation and waterproofing.
The need to insulate log houses from is considered in each individual case.
Which bathhouse needs insulation from the inside? Which ones to use? How to insulate a bathhouse from the inside? Let's figure it out.
Insulation of a bathhouse from the inside: Materials for insulation
ATTENTION! Between the vapor barrier material and the lining it is necessary to leave small space. The air gap becomes an additional heat-insulating layer and allows it to function natural ventilation inside the walls and ceiling.
wooden bath
If . A bathhouse built from logs or beams retains heat better than others. The need for insulation depends on the thickness of the wall material.
block baths
Choice heat-insulating materials is determined not only by good heat retention, but also no release of toxic substances with strong heating. Pay attention to combined insulation, they can significantly simplify work.
For finishing you need to use soft wood. The lining must be carefully processed and in no case coated with any chemical compounds.
The work of insulating all parts of the bathhouse from the inside: floor, walls, ceiling, etc. is quite complex, but quite doable even without special knowledge of construction.
