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Insulating the walls of an old frame house from the inside. Various options for insulating a frame house. Disadvantages of basalt wool

This question is asked by every novice builder who has to carry out the process of insulating a building.

It’s not enough to build a house with your own hands, you need to create comfortable living conditions in it, and without insulation this is difficult to achieve.

At the moment, there are a large number of thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate frame house with your own hands. They differ in composition, which, in turn, implies differences in the use of material and the positive and negative sides of each insulation.

Consists of 80 percent insulation. Insulation does not have a heating effect; its task is to prevent heat loss. Since during the heating process heat can be dissipated, transmitted through the walls of the building to the outside, the insulation acts as a kind of barrier that does not allow the room to quickly heat up in hot weather or cool down in the cold season.

Insulation materials

The most common material for insulation is mineral wool. It is a fibrous substance that has good thermal insulation and sound insulation properties. But the main disadvantage of the material is its toxicity. In addition, mineral wool does not perceive moisture well, losing its protective characteristics upon contact with it, so in order to insulate a frame house with this material, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing.

The next material is ecowool. Unlike the previous one, it is completely natural material, which allows you to create environmentally clean house. Its components are safe for health and non-toxic.

Ecowool is shredded paper impregnated chemical composition. One of them - boric acid, which does not prevent the insulation from rotting and makes it non-flammable. The insulation has good characteristics heat and sound insulation, quick to install. However, this material is difficult to install yourself, as a result of which you have to resort to the help of specialists or assistants.

Insulation such as polystyrene foam is used quite successfully. Its disadvantages are low noise insulation, high degree of flammability, emission harmful substances during combustion. But if you approach the operation of a building insulated with foam plastic, be as careful as possible, following the standards fire safety, then such a building will last a long time without causing discomfort to its owners.

Polystyrene foam has its advantages. It does not absorb moisture and therefore does not require additional waterproofing. It is very light in weight, which is convenient during delivery of material and carrying out insulation works. In addition, the material will be much cheaper than using ecowool.

Another material on this list of insulation materials is polyurethane foam. Being the most modern material, polyurethane foam has absorbed all the best qualities of its predecessors. It is non-flammable, non-toxic, provides good thermal insulation when low temperatures. Insulation of a house using polyurethane foam occurs quickly, which is due to the method of applying the material - two components are sent into the sprayer, which are mixed under the influence of air, after which they fall on the surface in the form of foam, which hardens in a short time. The only drawback of the material is its high price.

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The process of insulating a house

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Preparing and insulating the house

To insulate a house with your own hands, the first thing you should do is check the condition of the walls of the building. Once any defects are identified, they must be eliminated. Before insulating a house, it is recommended to carry out a whole complex of preparatory work, which will allow you to prepare a frame house. This list includes cleaning the walls of the building from dirt and removing foreign objects, such as protruding nails. In addition, it is necessary to seal the existing gaps between the structural elements with polyurethane foam. Required construction hair dryer to dry damp areas of wood.

To insulate a frame house, you will need tools and materials such as:

1. Construction hair dryer (for drying walls).
2. Nail puller (for removing protruding nails).
3. Drill and screwdriver.
4. Self-tapping screws.
5. Insulation.
6. Polyurethane foam.
7. Putty.
8. Construction stapler.
9. Construction adhesive.
10. Reinforcing mesh.

It involves two stages of work: installation of waterproofing and installation of a thermal insulation layer. The waterproofing material must be cut into strips corresponding to the size of the walls of the house. Next, the material is secured to the racks, followed by complete covering of the frame using a construction stapler.

A good material for waterproofing a frame house is glassine. When using this material, moisture absorption can reach 20 percent. Next, the moisture is removed to the wood, which, in turn, dries naturally. The glassine strips are overlapped. The layer of material is 10 cm, fastening is carried out every 12 cm along the joint.

This type of work is intended only to insulate a frame house from the inside. External waterproofing makes no sense, since moisture will remain between the layers without coming out, which will ultimately lead to rot and further destruction of the building.

After the installation of waterproofing is completed, the thermal insulation material is laid. The material is placed between the frame posts, having previously been cut to certain sizes that will correspond to the dimensions of the wall. Please note that the size of the thermal insulation material is allowed larger size walls by about 5 cm. This will allow for more dense installation. Cutting sheets of thermal insulation is carried out with a regular knife.

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Internal and external insulation

Heat leakage from a frame house, like any other structure, occurs through the walls. Therefore, it is not enough to insulate a frame house from the inside; attention should be paid to both sides. Most practical option is external insulation, for this the best material would be polystyrene foam.

Insulation using foam plastic involves phased implementation work. First you need to level the walls, this will allow the slabs to fit snugly against the walls. Therefore, it is necessary to remove dirt and dust, eliminate wall defects and apply a primer.

The next stage of insulation is the installation of slabs. For this purpose, construction adhesive is used, which is used to treat the surface of both the wall and the slabs themselves. To ensure the most durable connection of the slabs to the wall, it is recommended to additionally fasten them with dowels.

After completing the installation of the slabs, apply protective covering. For this purpose, a reinforcing mesh is installed, on top of which two layers of putty are applied. Two layers of material will increase the strength of the insulation. To give the wall a more beautiful and aesthetic look, you can use decorative plaster, which allows you not only to improve appearance building, but also to protect the building from temperature fluctuations.

The insulation of walls from the inside is exactly the same as from the outside. The only difference is that besides decorative plaster and putty, plasterboard is used as a finishing component. But it is worth paying attention that with internal insulation, the space of the room also decreases. In addition, if there is a slight malfunction in the heating system, the rooms quickly cool down. For this reason, insulation of walls from the inside is carried out in cases where it is not possible to carry out insulation from the outside.

Frame houses are an excellent option for quick and inexpensive individual construction. However, despite these advantages, they have one significant drawback: taking into account the climatic conditions in most of the country, they require specific “rework” in the form of large-scale insulation work. How and with what help can this task be accomplished? There may be several options. It makes sense to dwell on the most popular methods of insulating a frame house.

Options for insulating a frame house

Insulation of a frame house with mineral wool

Mineral (stone) wool is chosen quite often as a thermal insulation material.

• This is explained by its excellent sound absorption and heat retention properties. It is environmentally friendly and non-flammable material, and its five-centimeter layer can easily replace brickwork almost 60 cm wide (if we compare them in terms of thermal insulation characteristics).
• The main task when installing basalt wool is competent and reliable protection rockwool from moisture.
• The formation of condensation on the material will negate all its wonderful characteristics.

Therefore, if such an expensive material as mineral wool was purchased for insulation, then saving on special membranes and vapor barrier films does not make sense.

Insulation of a frame house photo

Sequence of work when installing stone wool

• Basalt wool slabs are placed in cells formed by the frame. It is assembled in such a way that its vertical guides have a pitch of strictly 60 cm. This is the width of the material produced in a roll. The cut slab should fit between the posts with a little force and hold tightly, without sagging. As for the thickness of the insulation of a frame house, it varies depending on the region of the country. In areas with a milder climate, a layer of 10 cm is allowed. Where winters are severe, a layer of 15-20 cm will be required.
• To prevent the formation of “cold bridges” in the latter option, it is recommended to perform installation as follows. The first two layers of mineral wool (each 5 cm thick) are laid in the cells of the lathing. And the final one is done in such a way as to overlap the frame guides from above.
• Frame houses have a mandatory layer of vapor barrier on the outside, so there is no need to duplicate it before laying stone wool. But after all the layers of insulation have taken their places, you need to create a protective layer on top from moisture and condensation. You won't be able to get by with just one piece of material. Therefore the joints vapor barrier film carefully and carefully taped with construction tape.
• Mineral wool is also used to insulate the floor in a frame house. But its layer must be at least 20 cm. The work is carried out in the same way as with thermal insulation of walls.

Insulation scheme for a frame house

Insulation of a frame house video

Ecowool - an alternative way to insulate a frame house

This material belongs to the category of affordable insulation.

• This is possible due to the fact that it is produced from two main inexpensive components: waste from the production of cardboard, paper and waste paper.
• Both components form 80% of the total material, a little more than 10% is an antiseptic to prevent the development of microorganisms.
• The remainder of this percentage is the additive, the purpose of which is to minimize the flammability of the insulation.

Disadvantages of the material

• Areas of application for ecowool include small-scale construction, but owners of private houses do not always choose it. This is explained by a number of features of the material, which for some craftsmen are significant disadvantages.
• Good thermal insulation performance, which is attributed to ecowool, decreases over time due to the fact that, under the influence of natural processes, the insulation is compressed and its volume decreases. Losses can reach up to 1/5 of the total mass. To avoid such troubles, the material is laid with a similar reserve. An excess of 25% will guarantee that the thermal conductivity of the material will remain at the same level for the entire period of operation.
• Like anything that has a paper base, ecowool can absorb a significant amount of liquid. The indicator for this parameter ranges from 9 to 15%. And with each of them, the properties of the material to retain heat are lost. Therefore, it is extremely important to organize the insulated space in such a way that it is ventilated and there is a possibility of moisture removal.
• Only special equipment can provide a uniform volume of insulation injection. It is believed that professional technology makes it possible to control the density of the “stuffing” to minimize shrinkage. Consequently, you will have to either hire professionals or gain experience yourself, risking getting a level of thermal insulation of lower quality than expected.

• You can use the “dry” method of filling voids. Its negative point is the formation of fine dust, the contact of which on the mucous membranes and respiratory organs is best avoided. The “wet” method of application requires drying the insulation layer for two to three days. Depending on the weather, the waiting time may increase. Given the limited time to build a house, this is considered a big disadvantage. Although, of the two methods, it is the wet application method that allows you to achieve the best results.
• The rigidity of ecowool does not allow it to be used without constructing a frame when it comes to insulation horizontal surfaces.
• Despite additives that make the material less flammable, complete fire protection cannot be achieved. Therefore, the use of ecowool is not recommended near fireplace pipes, chimneys, and especially near open flame sources. To eliminate the possibility of smoldering of the insulation, a protective barrier is constructed between it and the heat source. It is used as stone wool with foil coating or asbestos cement slabs.
• Particular attention to compliance with the standards for filling with ecowool is required when insulating walls or inclined structures. Ignoring the recommendation for material consumption at the rate of 65 kg per 1 m² will lead to rapid shrinkage and the formation of areas left without insulation.

Advantages of ecowool as a heat-saving material

It may seem that with such an extensive list of shortcomings, the use of ecowool is inappropriate. This is wrong. If the technology is followed, the advantages of the material become even more obvious.

• You need to start with the fact that not so much material is required. The above norm of 65 kg per m² is not always required, and the minimum consumption of ecowool is 28 kg per m³.
• The insulation provides a decent level of sound insulation. A layer of one and a half centimeters does not transmit sound up to 9 dB volume.
• The environmental friendliness of this material does not need confirmation, if you remember what is its basis. Actually, this is what the name says. Due to the “fault” of ecowool, allergies do not arise in the residents of the house during operation.

• The only thing you should pay attention to when studying the composition indicated by the manufacturer is what substance was used as an anti-flammable additive. Fire retardant best quality considered to be borax (sometimes called borax). Ammonium sulfates and boric acid can be the culprits of an unpleasant, persistent odor, and they do not provide long-term protection from fire.
• Thanks to seamless installation, the material fills the space without leaving voids, therefore, there are no unprotected areas left.

• The affordable price of insulation, coupled with good performance characteristics, often plays a decisive role when choosing a material.

Technology of insulating a frame house with ecowool

As mentioned, there are two main ways for insulation with this material: “dry” and “wet”. The second option can be water-based or using adhesive composition. But no matter how excellent the result it gives, the simplest and most popular method is considered to be the method of backfilling with dry insulation. So, to do the work manually, you will need to perform the following manipulations.

• It is a little easier to insulate floors. The purchased material must be loosened with a special apparatus, after which the pressed briquette, weighing 15 kg, will increase three times in volume.

• Ecowool prepared in this way is poured between the joists. This must be done gradually, leveling the layers. At the end, the material should form a small mound. Why this surplus is needed has already been mentioned. It will compact under the weight of the boards.
• To carry out work on the walls, a layer of vapor barrier material is attached to the guide posts or immediately sheathed with sheets of plasterboard or OSB. This is not done completely, but a gap is left through which the ecowool is poured. It will gradually fill the space, compacting under its own weight. But at the final stage it will have to be compacted.
• All actions are carried out using protective equipment (goggles and a filter mask), and the filling process can be optimized by using an installation that blows out the material while simultaneously loosening it. Some construction companies provide the opportunity to rent such equipment.

Polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene for insulating the walls of a frame house. What to choose

Both of these materials are used in frame houses. They insulate facades on the outside and inside of the building. Despite some similarities, polystyrene foam is inferior to its opponent in most respects, but due to its good thermal insulation characteristics and low cost, it is in demand. Among the obvious disadvantages are:

• not very good sound insulation,
• release of harmful substances during combustion
• and obvious interest in it from rodents.

Insulation of a frame house with foam plastic from the outside

• The surface will have to be prepared along with all supporting structures. To do this, nails and remnants of other materials must be removed, and cracks must be sealed. A flat surface will eliminate air gaps between the wall and the foam. After leveling the surface, it is treated with a primer intended for exterior work. The composition consumption starts from 150 ml per m².

• After the primer has dried, a system of vertical suspensions is constructed in increments of 60 (70) cm. Thanks to this, it will be possible to prevent distortions when attaching the slabs of material. The polystyrene foam is placed on glue, which is applied at five points in the form of small piles, and an adhesive strip is completely drawn along the perimeter of the slab. The canvas with glue is pressed tightly and forcefully to the base. Subsequent rows are laid in the manner brickwork, that is, at a run. A portion of the diluted composition must be consumed within an hour.
• If, as a result of laying, inconsistencies are formed between the sheets of material or unevenness is obtained, then all such defects are eliminated using a sharp and heated knife. The resulting cracks can be sealed:
  1. a mixture of crushed foam and glue,
  2. penoizol (liquid analogue of the material),
  3. polyurethane foam.
• Plastic dowels create additional fastening for the insulation. They will be required in quantities of at least five pieces per plate. Next comes the entire structure being secured with fiberglass for extra strength, and special profiles for the corners will create reliable stiffeners. It is better to apply putty in two layers, and the final finish can be, for example, facade paint.

Insulating a frame house with foam plastic from the inside

The technology for performing indoor work is similar. The surface preparation stage differs only in the use of primers for interior work.

• As an adhesive composition, you can use the usual tile adhesive for ceramic tiles. The use of dowels is also desirable.
• As for the cell sizes on the reinforcing mesh, they can be from 3 to 6 mm. It must be fastened by forming an overlap and pressing tightly against the foam.
• Drywall is often used as the final layer. We must not forget about the mandatory sealing of seams.

Insulation of a frame house with penoplex

• Expanded polystyrene in installation differs from foam plastic in increased requirements for creating protection from moisture and sunlight. The technology of wall mounting has no fundamental differences.
• What exactly to prefer, you will have to decide for yourself. Both materials really differ, including in price. The latter costs more, but it is more durable and dense.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame house with glass wool

Some do not take glass wool into account, considering it a material of the last generation, but in vain.

• Modern representatives of insulation in this category differ from their predecessors in improved characteristics. In addition, it costs less than its “brothers”, and is able to retain heat quite well.
• The principle of its installation is the same as that of stone wool. That is, in order to insulate, for example, floors, the material is cut from a roll so that it is a couple of centimeters wider than the distance between the joists.

• Before installation, a waterproofing layer is created. It can be either roofing felt or polyethylene.

How the frame house will be insulated in the end is not so important, the main thing is to proceed from own strength and opportunities and comply with technology in everything.

To achieve comfortable stay in the house during winter period it is necessary to think about insulation at the construction stage. This will prevent cold air from entering the room and ensure compliance with temperature and humidity conditions. You can do the insulation of a frame house yourself. Step-by-step instruction for each type of structure is given below.

Why is it necessary to insulate a house?

Using thermal protection of structures in contact with cold air, the following problems can be solved:

• condensation from inside the premises;
• the appearance of dampness, mold and mildew;
• increased heating costs;
• non-compliance temperature regime living space and a decrease in the comfort of living in it.

Besides competent technology Insulation of a frame house can extend the service life of the main structures of the building.

Materials for thermal protection

House insulation can be carried out using the following materials:

• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;

Types of mineral wool

There are two classifications of this insulation. The first is based on the raw materials used for manufacturing:

• basalt;
• glass;
• slag

The most popular is the insulation of the walls of a frame house and other structures with basalt mineral wool.

The second classification is based on the form of insulation:

• rigid slabs;
• roll material.

It is worth noting that glass wool is only available in rolls.

For floors, rigid slabs that can withstand fairly high loads are suitable. Insulation of the walls of a frame house can be done using both slabs and rolls. For attic roofing, it is best to use slab material. This will allow you to easily install mineral wool insulation between the rafters.

Insulated frame house structures

Before insulating a frame house, you need to decide which structures require this additional measure.

You can protect the following building elements from the cold with your own hands:

1. first floor floor;
2. attic floor (if the attic is cold);
3. attic roof;
4. exterior walls.

Do-it-yourself insulation work can be done both outside and inside. It is best to install thermal insulation between the racks, as this will ensure proper operation of the material. Insulating a wooden house with mineral wool from the inside of the wall will greatly simplify the work and allow events to be carried out in any weather conditions.

Double-layer insulation – guarantee of 100% thermal protection

An insulation scheme from the outside is possible if the insulation from the inside is not sufficient and additional insulation is required. Peculiarities:

• external thermal insulation material should not create a barrier to steam. Otherwise, the resulting condensate from water vapor will accumulate between two layers of insulation, which is fraught with the formation of mold and mildew;
• thickening the house wall

Based on all of the above, it follows that thermal protection of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool should be carried out only in exceptional cases when the scheme from the inside is not applicable.

Wall insulation

Double-layer insulation (double frame)

To guarantee a comfortable stay during the winter period, it is important to take care of the thermal protection of the walls. To reliably insulate walls with basalt or other wool from the outside with your own hands, you need two-layer insulation. Adhere to the following layer order:

1. interior decoration;
2. vapor barrier;
3. insulation with mineral wool (2 layers with offset racks);
4. windproof membrane;
5. OSB-3 for sheathing;
6. external decoration of the facade.

It is important to remember that the scheme for using this type of insulation requires the presence of a ventilated layer with a thickness of at least 4 cm. This is necessary due to the high hygroscopicity of the material. In order for the insulation to maintain its performance characteristics, it is necessary to remove excess moisture from its surface. This is ensured by the circulation of cold air outside the surface of the mineral wool.

Most often, the technology for insulating the walls of a frame house is the following scheme: the material is not laid on any side, but between the frame posts. This allows you to reduce the overall thickness of the wall and significantly reduce the construction time of the building. Mineral wool is fixed between the frame posts, after which sheathing is done on both sides.

When carrying out DIY work, vapor barrier and wind protection are positioned similarly to the previous cases: steam protection is on the inside, and wind protection is on the outside.

When thermally protecting walls from the inside under curtain façade The order of layers is as follows:

1. interior decoration;
2. vapor barrier;
3. mineral wool;
4. superdiffusion membrane;
5. wall design;
6. façade finishing.

Insulation of floors

A wooden frame house is characterized by ceiling beams. When arranging thermal insulation with your own hands, insulation boards are laid between the load-bearing structures of the floor. You can also use rolled materials, but spreading them will require preliminary installation of the bottom sheathing or continuous flooring.

When insulating with mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs, the step wooden beams It is better to take the ceilings so that there is a clear gap of 580 mm between them.

This will ensure maximum ease of working with 600 mm wide slabs and complete filling of the space with heat-insulating material.

When doing things with your own hands, you need to remember that the vapor barrier is located from the inside of the room, and the waterproofing is on the cold air side. In the case of interfloor ceilings, protection from steam should be provided from the ceiling. Insulation

attic floor

It is also important to remember that when working with any type of mineral wool, it is better to prevent particles of the material from getting on your skin and into your lungs. For this, it is best to use gloves and a mask. Workers must also have special clothing that completely covers their arms and legs.

Insulation of pitched roofs The DIY installation technology is similar to ceilings.

The work is performed in the following order:

1. installation of the rafter system;
2. laying a waterproofing layer on top of the rafters;
3. thermal insulation;
4. installation of vapor barrier;
5. top and bottom sheathing;
6. laying roofing material;
7. interior ceiling decoration.

Preparatory work

Before properly insulating a frame house, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces. To do this, follow simple steps:

1. treating all wooden house structures with antiseptic compounds to prevent damage by various microorganisms;
2. cleaning the surface from dirt and dust;
3. elimination of significant irregularities.

These simple do-it-yourself manipulations will ensure that the insulation is securely attached to the structures and has the longest possible service life.

Over the past half century frame house construction spread and became common technology in countries Western Europe and America. The technology achieved such rapid (on a historical scale) success thanks to the properties of buildings - economy during construction and practicality during operation.

Worldwide frame construction did not go unnoticed in Russian spaces. All larger number owners of suburban plots are chosen for construction frame option. The choice of thermal insulation material is critical for such a building. Expertly selected insulation for the walls of a frame house will allow you to get comfortable and warm housing without going beyond your budget. In our article we will tell you which insulation is better for a frame house, and which one should not be used.

Work on external insulation of the wall of a frame house Source iobogrev.ru

Types of frame houses and the principle of their insulation

Houses that fall under the definition of frame houses are built using several similar technologies that do not have fundamental differences. In addition to traditional half-timbering and high-tech frame-panel technology (which includes buildings using German and SIP panels), other methods are actively used. The most popular options for frames include the following varieties:

Frame-panel houses. They are often called shield, Canadian or Finnish houses. Panels (boards) of a given size are manufactured in the factory. This preparation saves time construction site. The panels are quickly fixed to the frame and then insulated.

Post-frame houses. Insulation for the walls of a frame house is distributed between the racks, and sheathing is placed on top. Then wind and waterproofing is installed, the walls are sewn up, and interior and exterior decorative finishing is carried out.

One of the technologies for insulating the roof of a frame house Source iobogrev.ru

Which insulation is better for the walls of a frame house in each special case is thought out at the planning stage, and the issue must be approached competently; A house in which not only the walls, but also the roof and foundation are insulated will be truly warm. It should be taken into account that for different surfaces thermal insulation materials with different properties will be required.

The optimal way to insulate a frame is to use cross technology, when the wall is formed by two frames - the main one (power frame, which performs the function load-bearing structure) With vertical posts, and cross (external), with horizontal ones. With such an organization of the walls, the probability of the formation of cold bridges (in case of shrinkage) becomes vanishingly small, and the energy efficiency of the building increases significantly. Work on insulating a frame house is carried out in the following order:

External insulation. Only carried out under favorable weather conditions. Work will have to be delayed if it rains or snows.

Internal insulation. It is carried out using the crossover method. Its disadvantages are considered to be a shift in the dew point into the room (in case of errors in the construction of the wall) and a reduction in precious living space.

Thermal insulation of floors, ceilings, windows and doors.

Double cross frame; the main circuit is not insulated Source: seattlehelpers.org

Insulation for a frame house: selection criteria

Having set out to choose best option for insulation, you should decide on the selection criteria, as well as familiarize yourself with the offers available on the market. After comparing these two categories, you can determine which insulation is better for a frame house. Thermal insulation of frame walls is selected according to the following parameters:

Life time. The operating time of the structure and insulation must coincide.

Thermal conductivity. The lower this indicator (expressed through the thermal conductivity coefficient), the more reliably the building saves heat. The thermal conductivity coefficient is used to calculate the necessary and sufficient thickness of thermal insulation; The value of the coefficient is indicated by the manufacturer.

Water absorption. The lower, the better, since wet (moisture-absorbed) insulation can significantly increase the thermal conductivity of walls. You can say goodbye to the thermal efficiency of a home with wet insulation in its walls.

Classical frame pie Source palacestroy.ru

Shrinkage. A common problem with frame dwellings assembled by hand. Some types of insulation are subject to compaction, which is sometimes forgotten to be taken into account when choosing and installing. As a result of material subsidence, cold bridges appear and heating costs increase.

Fire safety. Construction Materials divided into groups according to flammability (ability to resist flame). For insulation of frame houses, materials of the NG group (non-flammable) are often chosen.

Environmental friendliness. Since insulation occupies the bulk of the walls and surrounds the inhabitants of the house on all sides, the question of its harmlessness is of concern to any adequate owner. The main problem is that not all materials can boast of naturalness, and the best technical indicators belong to synthetics. But even here everything is not so bad: certified products do not have a dangerous effect on the health of the inhabitants of the house.

Bioneutrality. Insulation for a frame house should not become a haven for rodents, insects, molds and microorganisms.

Insulation inner surface roll material Source obustroeno.com

Knowing the strengths and weaknesses of each insulation, when choosing, they take into account not only the price, but also additional criteria:

Climate of the region. Weather ( winter temperatures, duration of autumn rains) in the place where a country house is being built affect the choice of not only the thermal conductivity coefficient, but also the size of the insulation for a frame house.

Location of insulation. Materials with different densities are used for different surfaces. To insulate the floor, choose a denser (and, accordingly, more durable) insulation. This parameter can be ignored when insulating walls and roofs, where the use of denser (and more expensive) material will only increase the cost of construction.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Insulation materials: types and characteristics

Before choosing insulation for a frame house, you should familiarize yourself with its varieties. Materials used in construction are usually classified according to method of application:

Backfill. Backfill method - insulation using ecowool, expanded clay, foam glass or sawdust.

Sprayable. “Wet” technology is suitable for ecowool and polyurethane foam.

Slab (roll). The thermal insulation layer is fixed between the racks or in the ceilings frame structure.

Proper floor insulation in a frame house is the key to comfort Source strojdvor.ru

Insulation materials are also divided into two large groups based on their origin:

Natural. This includes materials of natural origin that have long been used in construction: moss, sawdust, peat, straw. They are available, cheap and environmentally friendly. The main disadvantages of natural insulators are flammability and high hygroscopicity, leading to the appearance of mold fungi. Do not discount insects and rodents, who also highly value naturalness and environmental friendliness.

Synthetic. Materials that have emerged through progress and human ingenuity. They are often non-flammable, easy to transport and use, and biologically stable. And, although synthetics are not without their drawbacks (they are more expensive, and when burned they release dangerous toxic compounds), they are valued in construction for their convenience and valuable properties.

Synthetic insulation for frame walls is conventionally divided into soft and hard. The soft insulation is covered with sheathing on both sides; then you can install vapor and waterproofing, then decorative cladding.

Floor insulation scheme with synthetic material Source patter.ru

Mineral wool materials

Mineral wool - common name universal and professional group thermal insulation materials, the use of which in insulation reaches 70%. This spread of mineral wool is due to its advantages: low weight, non-flammability, thermal efficiency and sufficient vapor permeability. The basis of the material is fibers obtained from the melt of the feedstock; Cotton wool is produced in the form of mats and rolls.

One of the indicators of the quality of mineral wool is the acidity module. The higher this value, the more waterproof and durable the wool is. The quality of wool is also affected by the binder - the component that holds the fibers together into a single whole. Several types of binders are used in production:

Based bitumen.

Based bentonite clays.

Synthetic. Based on phenol alcohol, phenol formaldehyde or urea resin

Compositional(most common). The composition includes synthetic resins (up to 2% by weight) and additives with hydrophobic (water-repellent) properties.

Video description

About mineral wool in the following video:

There are several varieties of this fibrous material, differing in the method of production and properties:

Stone wool. The starting materials are rocks (basalite, diarite, porphyrite), but more often basalt. In construction, a second name has taken root - basalt wool, although this particular variety is more often used for thermal insulation of industrial equipment and pipelines. Stone wool is durable, non-flammable and environmentally friendly material with high heat retention capacity. The small shrinkage of this slab material during operation prevents the formation of cold bridges.

Glass wool. It is made from molten glass, produced in slabs and rolls, and has characteristics similar to mineral wool. Glass wool has increased strength, elasticity and vibration resistance. However, glass wool fibers are fragile, and debris poses a health hazard. Working with the material requires the use of a respirator and special clothing, as well as installation using special technology. Glass wool is cheaper than mineral wool, but its service life is shorter.

Glass wool requires careful handling Source pinterest.fr

Slag wool. The raw material is molten blast furnace slag. This type of filler is similar in properties to glass wool; It is recommended to use it only for dry rooms. The main advantage of slag wool is its low cost.

Walls, ceilings and roofs are insulated with cotton wool; layer thickness in a country house year-round residence should be 200-250 mm. The peculiarity of cotton wool is its hygroscopicity, which is neutralized by the use of steam and waterproofing membranes. The density and thickness of the material affects not only the cost, weight and load resistance, but also the way it is used:

Rolled fabric(often laminated, foil-coated). Effective heat retaining material. Used for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces, has a density of 35 kg/m 3.

Plates. Material with a density of 75 kg/m 3 is used to insulate the floor, ceiling and interior partitions, with a density of 125 kg/m 3 - for facade insulation. More rigid slabs (200 kg/m3) are used for interfloor ceilings, installation of roofs and floors under screed.

Element roofing pie- mineral wool with foil coating Source pinterest.cl

Ecowool

Cellulose wool (known to the general public as ecowool) is an example of an environmentally friendly product. It consists of 80% of newspaper waste paper and waste from the cardboard and paper industry, and 20% of additives that perform a flame-extinguishing function (boric acid and sodium tetraborate). In appearance it is a loose material of various shades of gray.

Ecowool has proven itself well as sound and heat insulation; it insulates all parts of the frame structure. The disadvantages of ecowool are its high cost and the use of special equipment during installation. Insulation frame structure ecowool is carried out in one of four ways:

Dry backfill. Manual labor-intensive method, limited in application. Suitable for insulation and soundproofing of small-area interfloor ceilings, ground floor floors, and attic floors.

Dry blowing. The most preferred (fast and high-quality) method, suitable for insulating any cavities. It is carried out using blow molding equipment.

Video description

About ecowool insulation of the second floor of a frame house in the following video:

Wet glue method. It is used if it is necessary to insulate a large surface area or the project does not provide for cladding. In this case, water is added to ecowool if untreated wood is to be protected; or PVA glue, which increases the adhesive (adhesive) properties of the mixture. Can also be applied using a blow molding machine.

Liquid plaster (liquid wallpaper). Variety wet method, applied using the grout method. If the layer will serve not only as insulation, but also as a cladding, it is possible to add dyes.

Penoizol

Urea-formaldehyde foam, better known under the brand name Penoizol (aka Mettemplast or Poroplast), is a universal thermal insulator with low density and thermal conductivity. It is produced and poured into foam; after hardening, penoizol resembles polystyrene foam with its white fine-cell structure.

Penoizol has an impressive service life (up to 80 years); The composition of the material is based on nitrogen, so it is classified as a low-flammable substance. For thermal insulation, not only foam is used, but also a slab version, as well as crumbs (thermal wool), which allows you to create a seamless layer with excellent insulating and sound-proofing qualities.

Ceiling insulation with foam insulation Source barberosalon.ru

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

Exists large group Polyurethane foam, with different properties and various areas of application, from filling car seats and toys, to bumpers and shoe elements. In construction, polyurethane foam is used in the form of ready-made sheets or a self-foaming composition for pouring with a density of 5-40 kg/m 3.

PPU is considered universal material, allowing you to effectively insulate a house from the basement to the roof. It is cheap, has low thermal conductivity and excellent adhesion, which allows it to be applied (sprayed) to surfaces of any quality, from brick and metal to wood and roofing felt. Solid varieties of polyurethane foam are produced using the slab method. Unlike soft insulation, they serve as the basis for waterproofing and facade cladding.

Styrofoam

White material with a fine-mesh structure, fragile and short-lived. Despite this, it is considered a proven and convenient sound and heat insulating material due to its availability, low weight (15-35 kg/m3) and ease of installation (using glue). It is advantageous to use polystyrene foam for external insulation - it does not require additional vapor and waterproofing.

Elastic and resilient polyurethane foam is easy to use Source zemkadastr45.ru

Polystyrene foam used in construction (and for packaging) is not toxic, but when burned it emits extremely harmful substances to health. chemical compounds, knowledge of this feature forces many customers to choose another insulation.

Video description

We will dwell in more detail on insulating a house with polystyrene foam. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:

Expanded polystyrene (penoplex)

Expanded polystyrene is a popular thermal insulation material due to its long service life, low cost and excellent sound and heat-saving properties. The material demonstrates high hydrophobicity (absorption volume is no more than 3% of weight), compressive and bending strength, fire resistance and non-toxicity.

Penoplex boards are attached to the frame posts with glue. Experts advise protecting the material from solar ultraviolet radiation.

Expanded clay

The material is the most common and proven fill-type insulation; It is used in thermal insulation of floors, floors and walls. Expanded clay is based on refractory clays, which are subjected to heat treatment during the production process. The result is granules, crushed stone or sand with a characteristic porous structure and attractive parameters, including good thermal insulation and light weight, environmental friendliness, chemical inertness and vapor permeability.

Various fractions of expanded clay Source stroyfora.ru

Expanded clay is not flammable and does not lose thermal insulation properties with temperature fluctuations. The only drawback of expanded clay is that its heat-protective properties are inferior to synthetic materials.

Foam glass

Not only expanded clay is produced in the form of granules, but also foam glass - a material with more high level thermal protection. Sand and broken glass are used to make it, which automatically turns the material into the safest and cleanest product. Granulated foam glass is indifferent to bio- and chemical agents, moisture-resistant, and its only (and tangible) disadvantage can be considered its high cost.

Video description

About the insulation of an American frame house in the following video:

The importance of high-quality vapor barrier and wind protection of insulation

In order for mineral wool insulation to cope with its duties perfectly, they need well-designed steam, water and wind insulation:

Vapor barrier. Serves as a barrier to moisture coming from the room. In the absence of such a protective layer, mineral wool absorbs moisture, and its ability to retain heat drops sharply.

Hydrowind protection. Both a windbreaker worn over a sweater and a protective membrane on the outside of the wall help retain heat. This protective material has a complex multi-layer structure - it not only retains heat, but also allows water vapor to pass out, while at the same time preventing atmospheric moisture from penetrating inside.

Modern protective membranes are capable of maximally insulating the insulation (and, therefore, wall structure), which cannot be said about plastic film, which thrifty (or those not familiar with physics) builders strive to use. Polyethylene will inevitably create the effect of a thermos inside the wall without the possibility of ventilation, which leads to damage to the insulating layer throughout the entire volume of the walls.

Wind protection of a frame house is an essential component of construction Source: seattlehelpers.org

Conclusion

The final decision on the question of how best to insulate a frame house remains with the owner of the future home. To prevent the wrong choice of material and technology from leading to disappointment in a frame house, you should pay the most attention to the features of insulation. Correctly selected thermal insulation material and its installation, carried out taking into account technological requirements, will make the house truly warm and energy efficient.

Frame houses are comfortable and reliable. Their construction requires relatively small financial costs. At the same time, the walls of such residential buildings require mandatory insulation.

Insulation for Canadian homes – is there a choice?

Built using the so-called Canadian technology, they are characterized by a considerable number of advantages. Their construction is beneficial from an economic point of view. For frame buildings, it is not necessary to pour a powerful and deep foundation, or to involve heavy and special equipment in the work. All activities are carried out quite quickly. Moreover, the construction of houses is carried out from environmentally friendly and safe materials.

An important stage in the arrangement of frame residential buildings is the thermal insulation of their walls. It can be produced internally and externally using products that must have the following qualities:

• low thermal conductivity;
• convenience and ease of independent use;
• counteraction to moisture accumulation;
• durability;
• reasonable cost without compromising performance;
• stability of sizes and volumes;
• resistance to mechanical stress and destruction;
• Fire safety.

Properly selected and installed insulation ensures a significant reduction in heat losses in the house, creating favorable microclimate with constant humidity and temperature. Nowadays, as thermal insulation products for Canadian houses the most commonly used are mineral wool, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. Insulation can be installed using different technologies - by installing slabs, spraying, backfilling. Often combined methods of thermal protection of a building are used (for example, mineral wool is placed inside, polystyrene foam is placed on the outside, which is covered with decorative finishing, facing materials).

Mineral wool - so different and so popular

Mineral wool is a well-known insulation material. It has excellent noise protection and thermal insulation potential. The thermal conductivity of wool depends on its density, thickness and humidity level. When carrying out insulation work, this must be taken into account. Mineral wool is always covered with vapor barrier film membranes, as well as waterproofing products. And the thickness of the layer of its installation is determined depending on the weather conditions in a particular area.

It is recommended to thermally insulate frame walls not with rolled wool, but with products produced in the form of slabs. The thickness of the insulation layer varies between 13–25 cm. Installation protective products produced layer by layer. Each subsequent layer of insulation should be placed with some offset relative to the previous one. Then the probability of cold bridges occurring is reduced to zero. The thickness of each layer of wool should not exceed 5 cm.

The material we are interested in is usually divided into several types. There are slag, glass, eco- and basalt (stone) wool. Slag is produced using blast furnace slag, which is characterized by acidity (residual). For this reason, the material can negatively affect various surfaces and metal bases. It is undesirable to use slag wool for insulating facades, as it tends to quickly absorb and accumulate moisture.

Glass wool is considered more environmentally friendly. She is described enough high rate strength and elasticity, resistance to extreme sub-zero and negative temperatures (from +50 to -60 ° C). glass wool is difficult because its fibers are very prickly. To work with similar material you have to use protective equipment. But they do not always protect inexperienced professionals from injuries and injections. From this point of view, the use of stone wool looks more preferable. It does not prick, and is characterized by minimal flammability (the fibers can melt, but not burn).

Basalt wool is made from diabase with the addition of dolomite, limestone, and clay. It also contains formaldehyde resins, which can cause negative impact on human health. Such problems do not exist if ecowool is used for insulation. This material is not subject to rotting or burning. When installing it yourself, you do not need to use moisture and vapor barrier films. Ecowool is a natural heat insulator with excellent sound and thermal protection properties. It is classified as sprayed thermal insulation.

Thermal protection of walls with mineral wool - what to consider and how to do?

The technology for using mineral wool, as you understand, requires the formation of a completely sealed layer of thermal insulation, protected from condensation and moisture. In addition, it is necessary to provide a special ventilation gap between the installed vapor barrier and the finishing cladding of the walls of the frame dwelling. Important point. There is no need to install a vapor barrier layer from the inside. But it must be mounted outside.

The diagram for self-insulation of frame buildings with mineral wool is given below:

1. 1. We measure the parameters of the walls that will be insulated. We prepare insulation corresponding to the obtained dimensions, as well as waterproofing.
2. 2. Sheathing waterproofing material building frame. We fix the products with staples using a construction stapler.
3. 3. We install a vapor barrier. As such we use foamed polyethylene. We fasten the material to the frame posts using the already mentioned stapler. We place the vapor barrier films overlapping (10–12 cm). And we must seal all the seams between them. Double-sided tape is best suited for these purposes.
4. 4. We place the insulation from the inside of the house between the frame posts (in the existing gaps). Here it is important to lay the material so that there are no gaps between its individual parts (plates, sections of rolls). We cut pieces of insulation boards (if necessary) with a knife or scissors.
5. 5. We sew up the walls from the inside with sheets of plasterboard or OSB products.

The last piece of advice for those who plan to insulate frame walls with mineral wool. It is strictly forbidden to press too hard on the material during installation. Due to pressure, the layer of wool will decrease, which will lead to a decrease in its heat-protective qualities. Otherwise, the DIY process is quite simple and quick.

Foam plastic is an effective and uncomplicated technology for external insulation

Polystyrene foam is recommended for insulating frame dwellings from the outside. It withstands mechanical loads well, has very high moisture-repellent capabilities and thermal conductivity. And most importantly, when using foam plastic, there is no need to use moisture and vapor barrier materials. Another advantage of this insulation is its versatility. It can be used for the interior and floor of any residential buildings.

Polystyrene foam also has disadvantages. Firstly, when burned, it releases a whole bunch of harmful compounds into the air. Secondly, a variety of small rodents love to live in it. Thirdly, the material described is considered non-ecological. Despite all these disadvantages, foam plastic is actively used to protect the walls of frame houses from the cold. The following must be taken into account:

1. 1. Everything wooden elements frame structure, before installing the foam, it is necessary to treat it with an antiseptic composition.
2. 2. It is recommended to perform insulation with non-pressed foam sheets.
3. 3. Measures for thermal protection of the walls of the house from the outside can only be carried out at temperatures above 0 °C.

Step-by-step instructions for installing polystyrene foam will be simple. First we need to properly prepare outer surface walls We clean the frame from dirt and dust, remove all existing protrusions from it that may interfere with the installation of the material. The walls should be as smooth as possible. Only in this case will we be able to achieve a tight fit of the foam sheets to the surfaces. If there are chips and clearly visible cracks on the frame, they need to be treated with a wood primer. It is recommended to sand the remaining unevenness (minor).

After preparing the wall, we begin the main work. Take the glue for attaching the foam and mix it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply adhesive to the surface. This operation will additionally level the wall and ensure effective fixation of the insulation sheets. Then we apply glue in strips along the edges of the foam products, as well as in cakes over their area (in 5-7 places). In most cases, the adhesive must be used within 60–90 minutes after mixing. Therefore, we work carefully, but quickly.

We apply the sheets of heat insulation to the wall and press it. The joints of individual parts of the insulation should not match. After gluing the first row, you need to make a shift (preferably by half of the sheet used). Similarly, we move the slabs in all other rows. We cut the foam with a regular knife. The pros advise warming it up a little before using it – the cutting will go like clockwork!

When we secure everything foam boards, most likely there will be small gaps on the wall between separate sheets. Nothing wrong with that. The geometry of sheets is never absolutely correct. We will need to seal the cracks that appear. There are two options here. You can mix crushed pieces of polystyrene foam with the glue you use and cover up the holes with this mixture. It's even easier to buy polyurethane foam and blow out the gaps with it.

Since the foam is very light, a strong wind can tear off the glued sheets, it is necessary to take care of additionally attaching the insulation to the wall bases. It's simple. We make additional fixation of the heat insulator with special self-tapping screws (those that have disc-shaped and wide-sized caps) or plastic dowels. We install hardware only after the glue has completely dried. It is not advisable to install more than 5 screws or dowels on one slab.

The foam slabs are treated with acrylic plaster on top, which must be additionally reinforced. The operation is performed using a fiberglass mesh. Putty is applied on top of it (to be safe, we do two layers). At the corners of the walls, it is advisable to secure the slabs of insulating material with profiles. With this approach, the layer of thermal insulation on the walls will, without exaggeration, last forever.

The final work is lining the insulated surfaces. Most often they are painted or decorated with wild brick, which is popular today. Let us add that foam plastic slabs can also be used for internal insulation of frame dwellings. The principle of performing the work will be the same - we prepare the wall, apply a primer to it, install the insulation with glue, treat the resulting surface with putty, paint (use other decorative coating).

Polyurethane foam is a relatively new way to protect your home from the cold.

An effective option for thermal insulation of frame houses is the use of sprayed materials. On the domestic market they are represented mainly by polyurethane foam. This insulation is not afraid of water, demonstrates high heat-shielding properties, is truly durable, and can be evenly applied to hard-to-reach areas both outside and inside the house.

Polyurethane foam is sold in the form of containers with two liquid components. Before use, they should be mixed with each other, and then air should be supplied to the resulting solution under a certain pressure. This operation is performed using special equipment. It foams polyurethane foam. The resulting foam is fed into the gaps between the frame walls, where it quickly hardens.

Disadvantages of polyurethane foam for insulation:

• Reduced thermal insulation properties when exposed to ultraviolet radiation. Direct Sun rays deprive the material of all its operational advantages. Therefore, polyurethane foam should be protected from ultraviolet radiation.
• The need to use special equipment for insulation.
• High price. Insulating a square wall costs $40–$45.

But all work can be completed in the shortest possible time. And be sure that the sprayed insulation made will reliably protect the house from the cold. At the same time, financial resources for insulation are slightly reduced due to the fact that the polyurethane foam coating does not require additional protection from steam and moisture.

Other methods of insulation - modern and almost completely forgotten

Ecowool, which we have already discussed, is considered one of the most promising materials for thermal insulation of frame dwellings. It can be applied in three different ways at once:

1. 1. Dry technology. It essentially involves pouring insulation into the space between the frame elements. Ecowool can be used both for insulating walls, and for ceilings between floors, and floor foundations.
2. 2. Glue technique. In this case, a little glue is added to the material. For frame houses, this technology is not rational. It is indispensable for insulating concrete and metal surfaces.
3. 3. Wet thermal insulation. Liquid (ordinary water) is added to ecowool, which increases its adhesion and makes it possible to process inclined bases.

Let us also recall the technology of thermal protection of walls, which is very rare these days. It involves the use of natural insulation materials. Sawdust concrete and a mixture of clay and straw are usually used as such. They just need to fill the voids between the frame supports and enjoy the warmth in your home. It turns out cheap and cheerful. But modern experts do not recommend working with such materials. It is believed that they begin to rot within 3–4 years after insulation. We will argue with this statement. In the vast expanses of Russia you can find many country houses that were insulated with sawdust concrete back in the 1970s and 80s. Believe me, they are still reliably protected from the cold.

Insulating a house using clay and sawdust

The main disadvantage of natural mixtures is that they cannot be purchased in ready-made form in construction stores. You will have to order all the required components (sawdust, straw, etc.), and then use your own with my own hands make a heat insulator from them. It won't be easy. The process is very labor-intensive and lengthy. You will have to chop straw, mix clay and concrete (by hand). If you perform these operations together, in 7–8 hours of work you can do a maximum of 2–3 cubic meters insulation mixtures. And for thermal insulation of the walls of a small frame dwelling with a plan of 8x8 m, at least 60–70 cubic meters will be required. Think about whether you are ready to spend that much time. Maybe it’s better to overpay and purchase ready-to-install insulation? Answer this question for yourself. Good luck!