Fastening gypsum boards to wooden sheathing. Wooden frame for drywall: preparation and installation. Procurement of necessary materials, devices and tools
If you are faced with the task of leveling walls with plasterboard and you want to solve it by installing plasterboard, then the option of using a wooden frame may be the most optimal.
The presence of a wooden frame will allow you to place a sound and heat insulation layer in the space between the walls, which of course will increase the comfort of the room.
True, it is necessary to take into account some important factors related to the specifics of this material.
Of course, from the point of view of ease of work (with installation of drywall on wooden frame a beginner can handle), the cheapness of the material, its availability, the wooden frame is superior to most alternative options.
However, it can only be used in rooms with average or even low humidity. Wood is subject to rapid rotting, danger of damage by insects, this material is fire hazardous: therefore, if you want your structure to last a long time,
it is necessary to subject this material to special treatment, in the form of impregnation.
Installation of a partition on a wooden frame
In addition, a wooden frame can only be used for simple rectangular structures.
The main difficulty in installing such a frame may arise if you are dealing with uneven wall. In this case, when adjusting the structure to one plane, you will either have to place wedges under the sagging bars, or cut off part of the thickness of the block in places where the plane of the wall bulges.
Finished wooden cladding frame
But first things first.
First of all, we sag the wall. To do this, using a system of plumb lines we determine optimal location the plane in which the drywall sheets will be located.
It is necessary to ensure that this plane is completely vertical. Next, we install two vertical bars along the edges of the wall so that the outer side
the bar was strictly in our intended plane. To do this job, you will need an assistant. The bars are attached to the wall using a plastic dowel. To do this, a hole is drilled in the wall, the diameter of which corresponds to
diameter and length of the dowel. The dowel is carefully driven into the hole. There is a certain subtlety to this work: it is practically impossible to drill a hole in the timber for a screw in such a way that it exactly matches the dowel in the wall.
Therefore, they proceed according to the opposite scenario: they apply the timber to the wall and first drill a hole in the timber for the screw, when the drill forms a through hole in the timber, it marks on the wall exactly the place where
You can now safely drill a hole for the dowel. When all the holes for a given block are drilled, the dowels are driven in, the block is again applied to the wall and firmly screwed in with screws.
If you are installing a massive beam, you can immediately drill through holes through the beam with a drill, without a drill. However, you should use screws with large heads.
The distance between the screws should not exceed 50 cm. When two vertical bars are fixed, the rest of the structure is mounted between them.
Laying soundproofing material into the sheathing space
In this case, simple rules should be followed: the lathing should be evenly distributed over the wall,
excluding the presence of extensive voids. In places where increased load on the surface of the walls is expected (the presence of shelves, hangers, mirrors, etc.), the lathing must be strengthened.
As a rule, for each sheet of drywall, at least two vertical bars are needed. Vertical bars are mounted in increments of about 60 cm. Those bars to which two sheets of drywall will be attached must be wider than 80 mm.
Places of horizontal joints of drywall are reinforced with additional horizontal bars. The same must be done with the lathing of any openings or holes - they are lathed around the perimeter.
The main task, namely ensuring that all external sides of the sheathing are located in the same plane, can be solved in two ways.
The first is that a cord is stretched between two vertical bars and the remaining structural elements are mounted in such a way that the outside lightly touches the cord.
The second way is to place additional horizontal bars at the top and bottom, using the rule to ensure their location in the same plane as the vertical bars.
Now the rest of the sheathing is applied.
Finished wooden frame with insulation from mineral wool
The next step is to install the insulating layer. Materials used: polystyrene foam, mineral wool, foam rubber or combinations of these materials.
Hard-to-reach places are treated with polyurethane foam.
You can learn about the technology of installing drywall on a metal frame.
It is necessary to ensure that the interior space is filled as tightly as possible with insulating material.
Naturally, this material should not protrude beyond the plane of the sheathing, as this will complicate the subsequent installation of drywall.
Finished wall cladding with ceiling frame
Finally you can start final stage work - installation of drywall sheets. Installation begins with whole sheets. The screws are screwed in at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edge of the sheet, in increments of 30-40 cm.
When screwing screws, you should monitor the degree of force applied, avoiding stripping the thread - turning the screw.
Over time, every house and apartment needs to be renovated. This becomes especially important with the appearance of children in the family. To create a children's room in one-room apartment, it is not necessary to build brick wall. , created with your own hands, will delimit the room and at the same time improve the design. The frame of the partition for plasterboard is created from wooden beams or metal profiles.
Plasterboard partition for room zoning
In both cases, you should carefully study the action plan and become familiar with the generally accepted rules.
To create a partition made of plasterboard on a wooden frame, you need to take into account some factors that will determine the service life of the structure and its functionality.
- The wooden frame is installed only in a dry room.
- The partition is placed in a room without sudden changes in temperature.
- A wooden frame is installed in apartments and houses without obvious movements.
- In a private house, there is a high probability of damage to the tree by insects and rodents.
Creating a frame for a gypsum plasterboard partition on a wooden frame If all of the above factors are excluded, the room is conducive to the construction of a partition with a frame made of wooden beams.
Materials for the wooden frame of the partition
To create a wooden frame you will need materials. Before starting work, you should prepare some materials.
Required condition when creating a partition, the wood for the wooden frame must be dry Wooden beams for the partition frame
What kind of wood is needed for the partition frame? For a high-quality frame base of the partition, ash, beech, pine, maple wood is used - grades I-II. Conifers contain a large amount of tree resin, which prevents rotting; they are less susceptible to damage by insects and rodents.
The size of the material is selected based on the size of the partition. You will need bars with a cross section of 60x80 mm. For greater stability, 50x100 mm bars are purchased for the base of the frame (top, bottom).
Wooden blocks 60*80, 50*100 Before using wooden beams for installation, you need to carry out some operations:
- All wood used to create the frame base should be dried. This may last up to 1 week.
- After drying, the wood is treated with an antiseptic. On construction market There are many solutions for treating wood. Pricing policy depends on the manufacturer.
Antiseptic agent for wood treatment To ensure confidence in processing, drying oil is used. It takes a long time to dry, but it is 100% processed material. For processing, drying oil should be heated in a water bath. When warm, the product penetrates deeper into the wood. The ends of the beams should be very carefully treated with drying oil. In some cases, the beam should simply be lowered with its end into a container with an antiseptic.
Prepared drying oil in a water bath When dried, 20% of the wood changes its appearance, what to consider when purchasing.
Other materials
Tools
To create a frame from wooden beams for plasterboard partition you will need a set of tools:
- Pencil or chalk.
- Meter, plumb lines, level.
- Hammer.
- Screwdriver.
- Saw or hacksaw.
- Roller.
- A set of spatulas with different spatula sizes.
Kit necessary tools for working with plasterboard If it is not possible to purchase a power tool, you can rent it.
Work plan for installing a wooden frame for a gypsum plasterboard partition
To build a durable wooden frame for a plasterboard partition, you should follow the plan.
Preparatory work and drawing
The first step in installation is surface preparation. This requires an analysis of the surface of the floor, adjacent walls, and ceiling. The entire surface must be flat. If you attach a flat wooden beam to the wall, there will be a gap of 0.3 mm. This is not critical, but a gap of 0.5-0.8 or more will affect the structure, since when the beam is fixed it will bend. Therefore, the entire surface must be flat.
The deviation of the surface from the norm should be no more than 0.8 mm. The room must be dry and clean. To do this, remove all objects that interfere with installation. Clean out debris, remove dust and cobwebs. It is advisable to treat the surface boundaries with a primer mixture with an antiseptic.
When the surface is prepared, you can begin drawing on paper. First you need to decide on the type of partition. Will it be up to half the room or as a wall? Will there be windows, doors or an arch? This should be reflected on paper.
The next step is taking measurements. All measurements taken along the perimeter, as well as the proposed window and door openings, are applied to the drawing of the partition.
Scheme of a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame Vertical posts are placed every 40 cm. Horizontal jumpers are installed at the joints of plasterboard sheets. At the location of the doorway, the horizontal beam is reinforced. In the place of the niche, which will be functional, there is also reinforcement. In the case of covering the partition with two layers of gypsum plasterboard, calculations will be required for the horizontal jumpers of the first layer of gypsum plasterboard (joints) and the second layer of sheet joints.
Markings for the wooden frame of the partition
For marking you will need a level or laser. It is required to accurately mark horizontal lines on the ceiling and floor, and a strictly vertical stripe on the wall. Fastening points are marked on these lines. Boundaries should also be noted. doorway.
Markings for future plasterboard partitions In order for the marking to be accurate, plumb lines should be used. They are lowered from the ceiling. The cone of the tool does not reach the floor by 1-2 mm. A fixed plumb line on the ceiling line with its end of a weight shows an exact point on the floor. Plumb lines should be hung at least at three points across the entire width of the partition.
Installation of a wooden frame
Installation of the frame base begins with attaching a wooden beam to the ceiling. There are some nuances here. If the ceiling is wooden (private wooden house, shingles), then ordinary wood screws 3.5*35 are used. If the base is concrete or brick, then the wooden beams are fastened to the wall and floor with dowels and nails, and to the ceiling with a wedge anchor.
Initially, a wooden beam is attached to the ceiling All guide (main) bars are attached in increments of 30-40 cm. This will give reliability and strength to the entire structure. If plaster layer unreliable, there is an option to replace the dowels with wooden pegs. They are driven tightly into the wall, sometimes coated with alabaster solution on top, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed in.
Vertical beam fixed on the wall After attaching the guide at the top, attach the beam at the bottom. This should be done very carefully, since the evenness of the septum depends on this procedure. The last beam is fixed to the wall, thereby connecting the floor and ceiling fixed materials. There should be a frame. In all internal corners 90 degree fastening metal corners. This is an additional fixation of the reliability of the frame. The corner is made independently in the absence of furniture parts.
Installation of vertical racks Now you should install the vertical posts. They are created from wood of the same section as the harness. The racks are fixed using wood screws. For strength, metal corners are installed. In the area of the planned door, the vertical posts are reinforced (2 knocked down bars).
Horizontal jumpers are installed at the junction of the plasterboard sheet. And also reinforced horizontal lintels are placed in the places of the created niches and at the top of the doorway.
Installation and fixation of the horizontal jumper In the place of the doorway below, a wooden beam will serve as a threshold. But, if this element is not provided, the tree is cut out, and the edges of the beam are additionally secured with self-tapping dowels.
Wiring
In this type of design, communications are impossible. But, if you need to make a backlight, a socket, a switch, then along the path of laying the wires, small diameter holes are made in the wood with a drill.
It should be noted that wiring through holes in wood should only be done using corrugated wires or inserted metal tubes to avoid fire.
Wires run into these holes. Wiring must be done in accordance with the electrical diagram. It should be preserved. In areas of switches and sockets, space should be allocated for the box.
Installed boxes for sockets and switches in a wooden frame When working with gypsum boards, a variety of materials are used. More often, builders prefer frames made of metal profiles. But there are also floors made of wood.
Plasterboard finishing wooden house
Some people prefer to use wooden floors due to the environmental friendliness of the material despite its shortcomings. These are: biological corrosion, flexibility to climatic influences and flammability. Special treatment will increase resistance to the listed influences. When making a wooden frame under drywall, you should know important points, which ensure reliability.
Installed frame for gypsum board sheathing To build a partition with your own hands, use beams coniferous trees With various sizes sections, the choice of which depends on the method of cladding and the height of the partition being built.
Basic requirements, subject to which the structure will last longer:
- The indoor humidity level is less than or equal to 18%;
- For partitions whose height does not exceed 3 meters, the riser is a section of 6x5 cm, the sheathing is 6x4 cm;
- For partitions over 3 m - sheathing and riser with the same cross-section, which is 6x5 cm.
- The choice of gypsum board depends on the height of the partition. The ratio of the height and thickness of the sheet is directly proportional; the higher the structure, the thicker the gypsum board;
- Regardless of the selected height, section and thickness, the step is 60 cm;
- Treatment that reduces the ignition index of the material is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the first fire safety group;
- Fastenings are made using nails, screws, and tenons. Using last view fasteners, the connection becomes stronger and will last longer;
- For sound insulation, mineral wool with a thickness of at least 5 cm and no more than 6 cm is used;
- The thickness of the new partition with the highest value is 132 mm and the smallest is 85 mm;
- The insulation index is calculated based on the selected partition thickness. It varies between 41 – 51.
DIY drywall finishing Before installation begins, the wood lies for a couple of days in the conditions in which the frame will be erected. During this time she will undergo acclimatization.
Chemical treatment no less than important stage than fire protection. It is aimed at productively combating various factors of biological origin. Let's take a closer look:
- Mold and mildew render the used lumber unusable, which is fraught with further destruction;
- Natural decay - necrobiosis, decay. Antiseptic treatment prevents these natural processes;
- Insects. Many species of these representatives of the fauna render the material unusable;
- Rodents are no less dangerous. A special composition is able to repel them.
Antiseptic There are a variety of antiseptics chemical compositions. Due to its effectiveness, preference is given to sodium fluoride. It is a light gray powder that dissolves in hot water. The structure of the bars allows sodium to pass deep. An indisputable priority is the poor washability of the solution; it does not decompose, has no unpleasant odor, is non-toxic and does not have a corrosive effect on the metal.
Sodium fluoride is also used, to which soda ash is added. This combination turns the first substance into a pure sodium fluoride compound.
Antiseptics with an oily structure are prohibited for use in residential premises. This:
- Anthracene oils;
- Shale;
- Coal;
- Creosote.
They are toxic and can cause considerable harm to people.
Wood damaged by insects Assembling the partition frame
Installation begins with tracing - marking. It is applied to the floors used for construction - walls, floors, ceilings. Initially, the gap where the partition will be placed is measured. The width of the gypsum board used is additionally measured from the intended line.
For these purposes, it is advisable to use a ceiling-wall line. Having marked the required point on ceiling, it is moved down, this can be easily done with your own hands using a plumb line. At the selected point, a nail is driven in, to which a plumb line is attached, and a mark is made at the opposite point where the plumb line points. Connecting the dots forms the first line. Then a perpendicular is drawn along the wall.
The resulting point, after drawing a perpendicular, is transferred to the ceiling using the same plumb line or bubble level. This creates the third line. The fourth is created by connecting two open points. As a result, a rectangle emerges, which acts as the basis for the partition.
Tracing Frame and features of its installation
Frame is a structure consisting of vertically and horizontally located beams and a frame. Its installation begins with the construction of the frame. The bars are fixed along the previously outlined lines. If the walls in the room are made of wood, then it is better to choose spikes or screws as fasteners. Otherwise it's screws and dowels. The frame is secured with brackets or hangers.
Installation involves the use of integral beams. Especially when it comes to a doorway. Wherever it is located (in the middle or near the wall), there must be solid bars on its sides. The holes are made with an impact drill used for concrete surfaces.
Formation of the future door
After the installation of the frame is completed, they proceed to the construction of the opening for the door. To ensure that the work done with your own hands is done efficiently, follow the sequence of actions:
- The risers are mounted on each side of the opening, taking into account the size of the door being installed. The opening is approximately 5 cm wider;
- The risers are reinforced with bars to provide additional rigidity;
- The horizontal partition is mounted a couple of centimeters above the box by connecting to a rail mounted on the ceiling. To do this, take two beams and install them vertically. They serve as a joining place for gypsum boards and provide greater rigidity.
Ready frame The final stage of work
Installation requires a minimum spacing of 60 cm between the posts. If the size of the gypsum board is less than the height of the ceilings, install horizontal jumpers, which will serve as a place for attaching additional sheets.
It is easy to determine the location of the vertical jumper (above the door frame). It is enough to attach the installed gypsum board and put a mark. The edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the jumper.
For people who do the installation themselves, the craftsmen give advice: it is better to connect the beams with metal plates and corners, which are used during assembly rafter systems. They are reliable and can withstand heavy loads.
Maintain horizontal and vertical alignment of lintels and racks. To determine them, a level is used. When installing racks with your own hands, place them so that the maximum number of whole sheets of gypsum board can be attached to the wall. This saves material and time.
Collect one wooden structure easily with your own hands, without the help of a second person. The technology for covering a gypsum board wooden frame is similar to that in the case of working with metal structure. Those who have doubts can watch the video and be convinced of the truth of these words.
To construct a wooden partition, high quality lumber is used.
Isolation is necessary
If the partition serves not only a decorative function, craftsmen advise insulating it. Installation of insulation is carried out after covering one side of the wooden structure with gypsum boards. Foam materials or mineral wool are more often used.
It is not difficult to complete this stage with your own hands, because the distance between the material and the racks is almost the same. The material is laid and fixed. Hard insulation materials secured to the inside of the lined partition. If cavities are found during installation, they must be filled with mineral wool. This combination will give the partitions an additional soundproofing effect.
In contact with
There are several ways to create in the interior of the house smooth walls and ceilings. In one of them, drywall is attached to a wooden frame. It is made from pine or spruce bars, the cross-section of which must correspond to future loads. To create a partition with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a beam of 50×60 or 50×70 mm is suitable.
The beams for the frame for drywall are made from spruce or pine trees and are carefully dried and processed.
Requirements for lumber used to create sheathing
The timber must be checked carefully. It may be a faint yellow or light brown color with no black or blue spots. Each part must have the correct geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks or deviations in straightness.
During construction and finishing works It is recommended to use wood with a moisture content of about 15%. It is impossible to check this on your own, so when selecting material you just need to make sure by touching your hand that it is not wet. Before installation, it is advisable to keep the bars in the room where they will be installed for several days.
To protect against biological decay, mold, wood beetles and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can use ready-made mixtures For interior work or make your own 4% sodium fluoride solution by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to the bars with a brush in several passes and the material is allowed to dry thoroughly.
Tools and materials for installing a wooden frame
A master who begins to install a wooden frame for drywall should have on hand:
- hacksaw;
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- hammer;
- building level or plumb line;
- coated thread;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- self-tapping screws;
- dowels, anchors, brackets or anchor plates;
- steel angles or mounting plates.
In the process of creating a partition, in addition to the bars, you will need gypsum board sheets, mineral wool, primer, putty and finishing materials.
Marking
Before you start making a wooden frame for drywall, you need to determine the plane in which it will be installed and mark the lines of its intersection with the floor, ceiling and walls. In this case, you need to remember about the thickness of the plasterboard and take it into account when applying markings.
The starting point is chosen at the line where the ceiling meets one of the walls. Applying a plumb line to it, find the corresponding mark near the floor. Both points are connected by a vertical line. Drywall sheets are manufactured with sufficient precision to be used to determine right angle. To do this, we apply the gypsum board at an angle to the mark on the floor with the narrow side close to the wall. Continuing the perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the next mark. Using a plumb line or level we rise to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines using coated thread or a pencil with a ruler.
Installation of a wooden frame
The basis of the wooden frame is made up of beams located along its perimeter. They are attached in accordance with the applied markings. The manufacture of the frame begins with a support beam, which is attached to the floor using screws, dowels or anchors, depending on the base material. If there is a doorway in the partition, two beams are taken, diverging from the passage to the walls.
When installing the frame, it is necessary to take into account that the plasterboard sheets are fastened so that the joints of the two sheets are in the middle on the block.
The beams are secured to the ceiling and walls in the same way. Then vertical posts are installed in the central part of the frame. They start with the bars framing the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm larger than the outer size door frame.
The racks are installed strictly vertically with their ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling bars of the frame. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws using steel angles or fastening plates intended for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will ensure reliable communication. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm, the racks are connected with a horizontal jumper.
Between the opening and the walls, the required number of racks are placed evenly in increments of 40 - 60 cm. At large sizes its partitions will have to be covered with several sheets of plasterboard. Attach drywall to wooden slats so that the junction of the two sheets falls exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of racks is carried out taking into account the future cutting and installation of gypsum boards.
For the same reason, if the ceiling height is greater than the length of the plasterboard sheet, horizontal bars are fixed at the junction of the first and second rows.
Covering the frame with gypsum board sheets and finishing work
Installation of gypsum boards on a wooden frame begins from the lower corner of the partition or from the doorway. To do this, use 35 mm wood screws. They are installed in increments of up to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. In this case, the heads of the screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for high-quality finishing walls.
If cutting is necessary, the plasterboard is cut construction knife followed by a break at the cut site. The sheets are joined together with factory edges facing each other, and the cut edges are turned towards the walls and ceiling.
After installing the gypsum board on one side of the partition, it inner space for sound insulation, it is filled with briquettes of mineral wool, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Electrical and information cables are laid, protected from damage corrugated tubes. Then sheathed back side walls.
After covering the frame with plasterboard, it must be primed, and then the joints and screw heads must be well puttied.
The installed plasterboard sheets are treated with a primer. After it dries, all joints and screw heads are covered with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely flat surface is obtained. After two days, it is primed again and wallpaper is pasted, ceramic tiles or apply any other type of finishing finish.
Plasterboard covering uneven walls and ceilings
If the size of the room allows part of the space to be occupied by plasterboard, you can use it to quickly and accurately close uneven walls and ceiling. For this purpose, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.
When covering the wall, you need to repeat all the operations described for installing the lintel, installing the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take bars and slats of a smaller cross-section, since they can additionally be attached with brackets or anchor plates to the wall being closed.
Some craftsmen assemble the frame on a flat floor, and only then place it in the right place and secure it. All cavities between the bars are filled thermal insulation materials. Install drywall on the slats, trying to avoid the presence of joints above the door and window openings, since there will be no supporting vertical posts.
When installing gypsum boards on the ceiling, the frame bars are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and at the same level. After this, the internal lathing is performed, securing it to the outer bars and to the ceiling slabs. Ceiling plasterboard It has a slightly smaller thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install.
This article provides instructions on how to attach drywall to wood studs and make installing drywall onto wood frames easy and quick.
Is it possible to install drywall on a wooden frame?
Cladding of walls and ceilings interior spaces– it is fast, inexpensive and quite labor-intensive modern method interior decoration of civil and public buildings.
There are several options for covering with plasterboard sheets (GKL):
- Direct installation, it can be done using gypsum mortar or special adhesive mastics, if the walls and ceilings have a smooth prepared base
- A wooden or metal frame for drywall should be used if working surface has distortions, strong waviness, lumpiness and other irregularities
Both profiles made of galvanized metal sheet and wooden elements- lath, timber, board. A possible frame for plasterboard made of wood may be preferable to a profile made of metal, since installing plasterboard on a wooden frame with your own hands is not particularly difficult and does not require special skills. Wood can be easily processed - drilled and sawn.
Is it possible to install drywall on a wooden frame? Yes, and besides, this allows you to save on finishing by refusing to purchase rather expensive metal profiles. However, it is not recommended to use a wooden plasterboard frame when the room has high humidity- in bathrooms, boiler rooms, showers and bathrooms.
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Do-it-yourself wooden frame for drywall
How to make a wooden frame for drywall? If a partition is sheathed, it is usually a three-layer construction made of edged boards 25-30 mm thick. The outer layers are formed from vertical boards, and the inner layer is made of horizontal ones. If the installation of the partition is done carefully and competently, without distortions, then such a partition actually forms a frame for drywall made of boards, to which, without any preparation, gypsum plasterboard panels can be attached using self-tapping screws.
The use of boards for the manufacture of frame structures in other cases is impractical, as this will lead to excessive consumption of material and an increase in the cost and labor intensity of the work. For cladding concrete, brick, logs, as well as old warped walls and ceilings, it is better to use a frame made of timber under plasterboard.
Many people are interested in whether it is possible to attach drywall to wooden slats? Since the difference between wood products (such as beams and slats) when applied to the installation of gypsum boards is insignificant, installation of drywall on wooden slats and installation of drywall on bars are practically no different from each other.
Fastening drywall to the wall on a wooden frame
Is it possible to attach drywall to wooden blocks, if they are simply mounted on the walls or ceiling? This option is possible, but it is better to make a frame for drywall from wooden blocks. A short instruction on how to install drywall on a wooden frame made of timber will help you learn how to attach timber to drywall.
For plasterboard, panels with the following dimensions are most widely used: width 1200 mm and length 2500 mm. In this case, the installation of panels on a wooden frame structure different types and characteristics (moisture-resistant, hardened, etc.) has the same scope of work.
Procurement of necessary materials, devices and tools
For determining required quantity GKL slabs should be drawn up with a sketch plan for the layout of the walls and ceiling with all door and window openings, slopes and technological niches (for example, under heating radiators). After calculating the working area, its value should be divided by the area that one plasterboard has. The resulting value will need to be increased by 20% (for trimming and unforeseen expenses), which will be the number of panels required.
- for fastening adjacent slabs - with dimensions 80 x 25 mm (first type)
- for intermediate vertical and horizontal fastenings - with dimensions 40 x 25 mm (second type)
It is necessary to draw on the plan the vertical and horizontal axes along which the frame elements will be installed on the wall, ensuring the fastening of the drywall to the wooden blocks. His design diagram will be:
- two vertical beams of the first type, 2500 mm long, at the edges of the slab with a distance between them along the axes of 1200 mm
- two vertical beams of the second type, 2500 mm long, with a distance between themselves and the beams of the first type in the axes of 400 mm
- six horizontal bars of the second type, installed in the upper and lower parts of the slab
- three intermediate ones, which must be installed along axes located at a distance of 1250 mm from the upper and lower edges of the slab; the length of the outer beams will be 400-80/2-40/2 = 340 mm, the length of the middle ones will be 400 – 40/2 – 40/2 = 360 mm
Additionally, beams of the second type should be used to frame window and doorways And technological niches. If the height of the room exceeds 2500 mm, the upper horizontal beam is replaced with a beam with a section of 80 x 40 mm and installed so that an additional 40 mm is used for fastening the top panel from a gypsum board sheet cut to the appropriate length; the length of the vertical beams of the first and second must also be increased type and the upper beam of the second type is installed.
After calculating the total length of the required number of beams and also increasing it by 20%, they can be purchased on the construction market or made in a woodworking workshop. Particular attention must be paid to ensure that they are free from cross-cutting and excessive knotting.
Before use, the entire set of wooden beams must be kept in the room in which they will be used for at least one week. After this, rejection should be carried out, and the remaining ones should be treated with special compounds - antiseptics that prevent rotting and damage by fungi and mold, fire retardants that impart fire retardant properties. Impregnations are currently available for sale deep penetration, providing protection for wood and preventing warping when indoor humidity fluctuates within a fairly wide range.
When manufacturing and installing the frame, you must follow the drawn plan.
Required Tools
Tools and equipment that will be required to complete the work:
- wood hacksaw
- construction knife
- construction corner
- steel rail-rule 1200-1500 mm long
- bubble level
- water level (for ceiling cladding)
- plumb line
- hammer
- electric screwdriver
- ladder, stepladder, it is allowed to build and use homemade construction trestle scaffolding
- protective equipment (hand gloves, goggles, respirators)
General provisions
Assembling the frame and installing it from individual prepared elements with your own hands directly on the ceiling or on the wall presents some difficulties - constant alignment and adjustment is required in horizontal and vertical planes with the constant use of a plumb line, level, construction square and rule slats.
If the length and width of the room allow, the enlarged assembly of large fragments of the frame can be done directly on the floor. In this case, it will be much easier to mount the frame, both on the wall and on the ceiling, and align and attach it in the vertical and horizontal planes, respectively.
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The horizontal and vertical elements are well connected to each other using pieces of tin metal strip of the required width (25 mm) bent at right angles or through small blocks. Both are secured in the required places with screws.
Installation of frame fragments on the walls and ceiling can be done using wood screws, if the walls and ceiling are wooden, using so-called “plugs”, when a hole is drilled in a brick or stone in the right place, at a predetermined point on the wall, into which it is installed. a wooden chopstick, into which, in turn, a nail is driven through the frame element or a screw is screwed in; instead of a chopstick, a plastic dowel with a metal screw can be used.
After installing and leveling the frame, if there is significant bulge and distortion between it and the wall (or ceiling), gaps may form that need to be filled gypsum mortar(if the wood was previously protected with moisture-proof impregnation), use polyurethane foam or wooden wedges and pads together with wood glue, such as PVA. Otherwise, the wooden frame for plasterboard on the wall (or ceiling) will have increased instability and may be deformed when installing gypsum plasterboard panels.
Installation of drywall on a wooden frame
After installing and leveling the frame structure on the wall or ceiling, you can begin attaching the drywall to the wooden frame by directly installing the gypsum plasterboard panels. The following instructions will help you on how to attach the bars to drywall.
To mount plasterboard sheet, it must be pressed tightly against the mounted wooden frame structure, so that the long edges of the sheet lie exactly along the axes of the first type of timber with a section of 80 x 25 mm at a distance of 40 mm, and so that it is possible to fasten an adjacent sheet to the remaining 40 mm.
Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm. Using a screwdriver, you need to start fixing the gypsum board sheet to the frame, starting with the middle intermediate horizontal element of the second type. In order not to make a mistake with twisting, on a sheet of drywall from the outside better with a pencil draw lines corresponding to the axes of the frame elements.
After this, you need to secure the sheet to the upper and lower horizontal frame elements. If the panel is to be mounted on the wall, its verticality and absence of distortions should be checked using a plumb line, and on the ceiling - using a level.
The sheet can then be fastened to the vertical posts. When tightening the screws, please note that the distance from them to the edge of the sheet must be at least 20 mm. The pitch between adjacent screws should be 100-120 mm.
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The instructions on how to install drywall on a ceiling are not much different from how to install plasterboard on a wall. On horizontal surface The ceiling is also equipped with a horizontal sheathing in the form of a frame, which should be attached to the ceiling structures and leveled horizontally using a water level. For ease of installation, it is also better to pre-mount the enlarged frame elements on the floor.
In order to mount a frame made of timber for plasterboard on the ceiling and cover it with gypsum plasterboard, your own hands may not be enough. An assistant may be required for installation. In exceptional cases, you can use supports and braces, which can help you install plasterboard on the beams alone, but this method should be used with caution, as unforeseen situations may arise related to the fall and destruction of plasterboard sheets.
