≡× MENU

• Interior
• Window
• Walls
• Projects
• The buildings

How to insulate a house made of sand-lime brick. Insulation of the facade of a brick house using modern methods. How to insulate sand-lime brick

Content

Brick is a classic material for building a house, designed to last for many decades of use. The thermal conductivity of brick walls depends on its thickness - the number of rows of masonry. If in the first winter after construction the wall freezes in brick house, this means that the construction technology is violated or the thickness of the enclosing structures is insufficient. In this case, it is necessary to resolve the issue of thermal insulation of the external walls of the building. Priority should be given to external insulation, but its installation is not always possible. Let's look at how to insulate a brick house from the inside, what materials are preferable to use and how to properly carry out the installation of thermal insulation.

How to insulate interiors brick walls home Features of wall insulation

Human activity is associated with a large release of heat and moisture. Bodies radiate heat Appliances. Moisture is released during breathing, during cooking, using water for hygiene procedures, washing dishes, and watering flowers. And the warmer the air, the better it retains moisture.

If the walls are not insulated enough, condensation will form on them when the heated, humid air cools. It will provoke the development of fungus, and dark spots will appear on the surface of the walls and ceiling. Fungal spores are harmful to human health - they enter the respiratory system, causing asthma attacks or allergic reaction. In addition, mold has a destructive effect on the materials from which the walls are built and irreparably damages the finish.

Wall with and without insulation

Before insulating the walls of a brick house from the inside, it is advisable to understand how this will affect the operating conditions of the external walls and the microclimate in the room.

Where to place the insulation?

It is correct to insulate buildings from the outside, otherwise condensation of moisture from steam cannot be avoided when warm air comes into contact with a cold front (dew point). Let's consider three types of brick walls:

• There is no insulation. The dew point is located in the thickness of the wall, so it accumulates moisture in winter months, becomes damp and breaks down over time.
• The insulating layer is located on the side of the room. The wall freezes through, causing the dew point to shift toward the room, to the inner surface of the enclosing structure. Because of this, moisture condenses between the heat insulator and the wall. To avoid dampness of the wall, it is necessary to provide effective ventilation of the room.
• The insulating layer is laid on the street side. The wall does not freeze, so it remains dry and freely releases steam outside. It is important that there is a ventilation gap between the insulating layer and the brickwork to remove moisture coming from the room.

Internal instead of external

Obviously, insulating a brick house from the inside is not the best solution. However, you have to resort to it if:

• The building is an architectural monument, and it is prohibited to make changes to appearance facade.
• The walls of an apartment in a multi-story building freeze. According to current standards, it is forbidden to install structures that change the appearance of the building without permission.
• The buildings are located close to each other, which makes it impossible to carry out work on external insulation of the walls.
• The external masonry of the house is made of expensive facing bricks and it is a pity to cover it new finishing, and laying a new outer layer of decorative brick after installing thermal insulation requires additional serious financial investments.

The disadvantages of insulating internal walls include reducing the space of the room due to the fastening of insulation and the base for finishing. The thickness of the thermal insulation “pie” is usually at least 10 cm.

When installing a heat insulator inside the house, it is important to consider that the insulation internal surfaces walls threatens condensation, which should not be allowed.

Ventilation gap improves the thermal conductivity of the wall

Vapor permeability

In order for the living space to breathe well and the air not to be overly humidified, high-quality ventilation is necessary. It is easy to breathe in buildings with brick walls, since the material is vapor permeable due to its porous structure. And so that excess moisture does not condense under the layer of insulation on the wall, but freely leaves the room, it is necessary to comply important rule– vapor permeability should increase towards outside, i.e. to the street.

This means that when insulating brick walls from the inside, you cannot use materials that allow steam to pass through better than the brick itself. Otherwise, this will lead to condensation settling on the structures. That is, covering a freezing wall with plasterboard will provoke constant dampening of the structures during the cold season.

Material selection criteria

When choosing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside, it is important to take into account the thermal insulation parameters of the material, as well as its vapor permeability. To protect freezing brick walls from contact with steam, choose one of three options:

• They use a polymer heat insulator that does not allow steam to pass through. Extruded polystyrene foam, high-density foam (loose material is vapor-permeable), penofol, sprayed polyurethane foam will help to insulate walls from the inside.
• Mineral wool insulation (as well as loose foam) is laid using high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier. Fiber insulation allows steam to pass through and tends to accumulate moisture. Basalt wool does not collapse under the influence of water, but its insulating properties deteriorate sharply.
• Apply to enclosing structures thick layer heat-insulating plaster.

When deciding how best to insulate your brick house, take into account the method of installing the heat insulator. In almost all cases, you can do the insulation from the inside yourself. An exception is spraying polyurethane foam, since the work requires the use of special equipment.

Properties of materials and installation technologies

Let’s figure out which insulation is best for the walls of a brick house, taking into account the advantages and disadvantages of each option, as well as the installation features of popular materials.

Note! The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is calculated individually, taking into account the heat loss of the house and the thermal insulation properties of the selected material!

Mineral wool

Internal insulation brick walls with mineral wool slabs have a certain specificity due to the vapor-permeable structure of the material. The heat insulator must be covered on both sides with a vapor barrier film, ensuring tightness in order to prevent heated moist air from contacting the enclosing structures.

Scheme of insulation of internal brick walls with mineral wool

Work progress:

• a vapor barrier film is attached to the wall (overlapping the adjacent planes of the walls, floor and ceiling), the joints of the rolled material are securely taped;
• a vertical sheathing is installed in increments slightly smaller than the width of the heat insulator, the depth of the cells should correspond to the thickness of the insulation;
• Mineral wool slabs are inserted into the cells;
• attached on top vapor barrier material with hermetically sealed joining seams;
• a counter-lattice is inserted to secure the sheathing made of chipboard sheets, plasterboard or other materials.

Extruded polystyrene foam

The advantages of modern material are excellent thermal insulation properties, lightness and strength. Extruded polystyrene foam is fire resistant. It is possible to insulate structures with this material by analogy with mineral wool, but the lathing promotes the formation of cold bridges, which lead to the formation of condensation zones.

Scheme for insulating brick walls with polystyrene foam indoors
Let's look at how to properly insulate a brick wall from the inside using extruded polystyrene foam:

• the surface is cleaned, leveled with a thin layer of plaster and primed;
• using polyurethane foam or foam glue, slabs of foamed polymer are glued to the wall - the elements are placed with a shift of half the width to avoid long vertical seams;
• the joints are filled polyurethane foam, after hardening, the excess is cut off.

The best option after this work may be gluing reinforcing mesh and plastering the surface for painting or wallpapering. You can also use “fungi” dowels to attach pieces of metal profiles about 10 cm long, onto which you can then sew drywall. But the use of “fungi” violates the integrity of the heat-insulating layer.

Styrofoam

The advantage of polystyrene foam is its low cost; in all other respects it is significantly inferior to extruded polystyrene foam. The main disadvantage of the material is flammability with the release of toxic substances. Foam plastic with a density of at least 35 kg/m 3 can be used as a heat insulator. To insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside, high-density material (about 50 kg/m3) can be installed using the technology of fastening extruded polystyrene foam, and looser, steam-permeable material can be used as mineral wool. In this case, the joints between the thermal insulation elements and the sheathing are sealed with polyurethane foam.

Scheme of insulating walls from the inside with foam plastic

Penofol

Thermal insulation made of polyethylene foam can have a foil coating on one side or on both sides. The material is characterized by its low thickness and high thermal insulation properties. Penofol with a thickness of 4 mm can replace mineral wool with a thickness of 80 mm. At the same time, it is often used together with mineral wool slabs to increase thermal insulation properties“pie”, simultaneously reducing its thickness. In this case, it is attached instead vapor barrier film after laying the heat insulator into the sheathing.

You can make thermal insulation of walls and partitions from foam foam alone. Slats with a thickness of 20 mm or more are stuffed onto the walls to create an air gap. Mounted using brackets horizontal stripes penofol with a foil layer to the room, gluing the joints with aluminum tape. Then they fill the counter-lattice for cladding the walls for finishing. The foil layer reflects thermal radiation, helping to retain heat in the house.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

Sprayed polyurethane foam will help create a warm wall without cold bridges. The foamed polymer is applied in an even layer to the prepared surface using special equipment. If the estimated layer thickness exceeds 3–4 cm, it is recommended to install formwork lathing, which will serve as the basis for attaching the sheathing for finishing. The disadvantage of the material is the high cost of work.

Internal insulated walls with polyurethane foam

Plaster

Plastering walls – classic way insulation. This a good option, if you don’t want to turn the room into a sealed box with artificial ventilation, because the plaster layer is “breathable”, like the brick wall itself. The disadvantages include the duration and labor intensity of “wet” work - you will have to plaster in several layers to achieve the required thickness of thermal protection.

Application of plaster for brick walls

Conclusion

Knowing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside, using different types of materials, their advantages and disadvantages, it is easier to choose suitable option. If you plan to do the whole complex of work with your own hands, you must follow the instructions, because violating the technology can have serious consequences in the form of mold on the walls and gradual destruction of the brickwork. We must not forget that internal insulation requires arrangement supply and exhaust ventilation which will remove excess moisture.

Energy saving programs are gaining popularity, and many are thinking about the best option for their home. How to insulate sand-lime brick? Which insulation options are better: outside or inside? What features of brick should be taken into account when choosing insulation?

Insulation for home made of sand-lime brick must be selected based on the type of construction and type of masonry.

Insulation of walls should begin with an examination of their features, the type of masonry that was used during construction. In order for the insulation of a house to meet all modern requirements, the following parameters must be taken into account:

1. Brick shape. This indicator directly affects thermal conductivity, on which the required level of insulation will depend.
2. Type of brick. For example, for m-150 sand-lime brick, a minimum insulating layer is sufficient.
3. Type of masonry. The thickness of the wall and its need for insulation will depend on this indicator.

Expert advice! If the house has solid masonry, then it needs to be insulated inside and outside; if hollow masonry is used, then the material is laid only inside the walls.

What insulation materials are available on the construction market

Today the chain of construction supermarkets offers wide choose materials for insulating walls made of silicate bricks. They all have their own characteristics that need to be known and taken into account so that the insulation of the house is of high quality and reliable.

1. Mineral wool.

Despite the fact that this material has been used for a long time, it has not lost its popularity. Buyers prefer it for:

• optimal price;
• ease of installation;
• light weight;
• environmental safety;
• long period of operation;
• complete absence of an environment for the reproduction of rodents, fungus and mold.

Among the disadvantages of the material, the following indicators are distinguished:

• rapid absorption of moisture;
• easily ignites;
• does not retain its shape during deformation processes.

1. Styrofoam.

Many experts suggest insulating sand-lime bricks using polystyrene foam. Its thermal conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool. But among the advantages we can highlight the following:

• the material is resistant to moisture;
• easy to install, no special tools required;
• a light weight;
• environmental Safety.

Polystyrene foam has special water-repellent properties.

If a decision has been made to insulate a sand-lime brick house with polystyrene foam, then you need to know that it easily ignites and releases toxic substances when burned. There have been many cases where a fire ignites and spreads instantly, and the owners only have time to save their lives.

Expert advice! Today construction market offers the new kind polystyrene foam, which has improved characteristics and greater fire protection.

1. Expanded clay.

This material can be used to insulate a house during the construction phase. It is added to cement mortar, which will be used when pouring floors and plastering walls. Expanded clay has a lot of advantages that make it popular in the construction market:

• minimum weight;
• environmental Safety;
• mice do not gnaw it, fungus and mold do not develop in it;
• It has high performance heat and sound insulation;
• does not react with moisture, so it is ideal for the bathroom, kitchen, and toilet.

Among the main disadvantages is the high degree of dust emission.

1. Polyurethane foam.

It is increasingly recommended to insulate a house made of sand-lime brick with polyurethane foam, since this material has the highest thermal insulation and strength. The material itself can be used in the form of slabs or sprayed onto walls. Polyurethane foam requires additional finishing, preferably with fire-resistant mixtures.

The main disadvantage is the high cost.

1. Warm plaster.

This material provides the room with the highest thermal insulation values. Using warm plaster you can easily cover sand-lime brick. Among the main advantages are the following:

• the walls have high levels of heat, noise and sound insulation;
• the material is not subject to combustion;
• does not absorb moisture.

The main disadvantage that prevents the material from gaining popularity is the cost and methods of application to the walls. Warm plaster is applied using special automated equipment. Only a professional team has such systems, which will charge a lot of money for the work.

In addition, the maximum layer of plaster is up to 5 centimeters. The large mass of the layer that is applied to the wall requires the construction of a massive foundation or additional strengthening of an existing one.

1. Fiberglass.

This material has excellent characteristics and is recommended by many experts. The main thing that everyone needs to remember is that this material should be installed only by professionals. It is toxic, therefore, if installed incorrectly, it can harm the health of not only the worker, but also everyone who will live in such a house.

1. Ecowool.

It is used only for internal insulation. The material has optimal thermal conductivity and quickly absorbs moisture.

Insulating the house from the outside

How to insulate a house made of sand-lime brick must be decided individually in each specific case.

If the house has been built and is functioning for a long time, then the insulation of the walls will be external. This type will protect the structure of the house from precipitation and sudden temperature changes, while the dew point will move closer to the insulation. Such insulation of the house makes it possible to increase the service life of the entire building.

Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane, and expanded polystyrene are suitable for external insulation. Sand-lime brick covered with insulation must be additionally plastered or covered with facade panels.

Before you insulate the house from the outside, you need to carry out horizontal waterproofing foundation. For these purposes, you can use waterproofing or roofing felt. Unfortunately, the latter material does not have a long service life. The installed waterproofing layer should not be on the walls of the first floor.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeHkQ5_I8ME

How to insulate a house from the inside

For sand-lime bricks, insulating walls from the inside is considered only in the most urgent cases. In addition to the fact that the useful area will be taken away from the room, when the walls are insulated from the inside, the dew point changes and moves inward. This causes the formation of condensation on the walls, which can only be eliminated after installing a productive ventilation system.

If a decision has been made to insulate the house from the inside, then it is necessary to use the material not only for the walls, but also on the ceiling, floor, and slopes. If you do not carry out such work, then there will be places in the house where freezing will appear.

When choosing a material for insulating sand-lime brick from the inside, you must first of all pay attention to the indicators environmental safety. When heated, all components will be released into the room, which can be harmful to human health.

When insulating sand-lime brick from the inside, you do not need to use a vapor barrier.

It is enough to cover the material with plaster. If there is a need for additional fixation of the insulation, then reinforcing mesh can be used.

When choosing a material for insulation, you should pay attention to the indicators fire safety. All walls inside the house are equipped big amount wires, various devices, which may catch fire.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=02Z2ZHcoUpY

Insulating a house made of sand-lime brick is a necessary and important process that will help save the family’s heating budget, create coziness, comfort, optimal temperature throughout the house. Only an informed choice of material will ensure the desired result for each specific home.

In private construction, brick is still particularly popular for building the walls of a house. Houses built of brick can be found almost everywhere. But, despite its excellent performance qualities, such a house requires insulation. The issue of insulating a brick house is especially acute today, when the cost of energy is quite high and every kilowatt of energy has to be saved. The solution in this situation is to create reliable thermal insulation of the house, which can reduce heat loss to a minimum. All work on arranging thermal insulation can be done on your own, especially since there is nothing complicated in how to insulate a brick house.

Specifics of insulation of a brick house

When planning to insulate a brick house, you must remember that insulating a house is a whole range of work aimed at reducing heat loss through the roof, walls, floor and foundation. And in order to answer the question of how to properly insulate a brick house, you will first have to find out what kind of brick and what kind of masonry the house is built from, consider the types of insulation of a brick house and decide on the materials for its insulation.

Features of brick walls

Unlike concrete or wooden walls, brick walls have a number of characteristic features. Firstly, the walls can be made of solid or hollow bricks. The thermal conductivity of a brick wall depends on this, the indicator of which is in the middle between wood 0.2 W/(m K) and concrete 1.5 W/(m K) and is 0.4 W/(m K). Secondly, the masonry can be continuous and with an air pocket (well masonry). Depending on what type of brick is used and what kind of masonry is made, the thickness of the walls changes, and at the same time the operational characteristics and required thickness thermal insulation layer.

Important! The average thermal conductivity values ​​are shown above. Depending on the type of wood and the materials used for the production of brick and concrete, thermal conductivity indicators may fluctuate in one direction or another. Thus, concrete with the addition of expanded clay has a thermal conductivity of 0.66 W/(m K), solid sand-lime brick 0.7 W/(m K), and pine 0.09 W/(m K). Therefore, before you start insulating the walls of your house, it is important to know what they are made of and how thick they are.

Regarding the masonry method, it should be noted that with continuous masonry, insulation is placed over the entire area of ​​the wall on one or both sides. In this case, the thickness of the layer directly depends on the thickness of the wall: the thicker the wall, the smaller the layer will be required. In the case of well masonry, the insulation is placed inside the wall, between the bricks. This approach is also called in-wall insulation. It can provide additional thermal insulation due to the air gap between the outer and inner walls, and when used thermal insulation material can reduce heat loss by half.

Types of insulation

There are three types of insulation: external, internal, and internal. External insulation is the most popular and involves placing insulation on the outside of the building. This approach will provide additional protection for the walls from various types of natural phenomena. Unfortunately, external insulation of a brick house has its drawbacks - the seasonality of the work and the fairly high cost of materials. Internal insulation of a house, in addition to wall insulation, includes insulation interfloor ceilings, floor, attic and roof. Internal insulation can be carried out almost at any time of the year. The third type is intra-wall insulation; it can only be performed at the stage of wall construction. Therefore, those who purchased an already built house will not be able to perform this type of insulation.

Characteristics of thermal insulation materials

It is necessary to select materials for insulating a brick house with special care, paying attention to their characteristics. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, some thermal insulation materials can only be used for interior decoration, some are for outdoor use only. Secondly, the total weight and thickness of the insulating layer will depend on the density of the material and its thermal conductivity coefficient. Thirdly, from the resistance of the material to various types negative impacts depends on its durability and ability to maintain its performance qualities. Fourthly, than more natural material, all the better. Below are the main characteristics with their brief description, to which special attention should be paid.

• Coefficient of thermal conductivity. The lower this indicator, the smaller the thickness of the thermal insulation layer will be.
• Water absorption coefficient. Just as in the case of thermal conductivity, the lower this indicator, the better. The water absorption of a material indicates its resistance to moisture absorption.
• Density. Essentially, this indicator reflects the mass of thermal insulation. The higher it is, the heavier the material.
• Flammability class. There are four flammability classes in total. Materials of class G1 stop burning without a fire source, so their use is more preferable in construction.
• Durability of the material. With this indicator everything is simple. It indicates how long a given material will last without losing its performance characteristics.
• Vapor capacity. The ability of the material to “breathe”, passing moist air through itself, will be very useful for internal insulation of premises, which will only increase comfortable accommodation in the house.
• Soundproofing abilities. Some heat-insulating materials also have excellent sound-proofing properties, which allows you to significantly save on special sound-proofing materials.
• Environmental friendliness. This indicator only indicates the naturalness of the materials and will be useful for those who strive to make their home as safe as possible for living in it.
• Difficulty of installation. This indicator only affects the speed and ease of installation, which will be especially useful for beginners in the construction business.

IN modern construction Do-it-yourself insulation of a brick house is carried out using various materials. Below are the usual artificial materials and natural ones that are gaining popularity again:

• Mineral wool. Perhaps the most commonly used thermal insulation. Its thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.041-0.044 W/(m.K) and its density is from 20 kg/m3 to 200 kg/m3. Among the disadvantages, high moisture absorption should be noted. More suitable for internal insulation.
• Expanded polystyrene (foam). The second most popular insulation material. Thermal conductivity coefficient 0.033 - 0.037 W/(m.K), density 11 to 35 kg/m3. This material practically does not absorb moisture, but at the same time its vapor permeability is practically zero. In addition, it is fragile, flammable and releases toxic substances when burned. Can be used both inside and outside the building.
• Extruded polystyrene foam. Thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.028 - 0.032 W/(m.K), density is from 25 to 38 kg/m3. Unlike regular foam, extruded polystyrene foam is stronger, but otherwise they are almost identical. Suitable for external and internal work.
• Expanded clay. The thermal conductivity coefficient ranges from 0.10 to 0.18 W/(m.K), density 200 - 800 kg/m3. Quite a narrow range of applications. It is mainly added to concrete for the foundation or construction of a monolithic frame of a house. It can also be used for in-wall insulation.
• "Warm" plaster. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.065 W/(m.K), density 200 - 340 kg/m3. This material has quite a lot of advantages - sound insulation, vapor permeability, low water permeability, non-flammability, etc. But there are two significant shortcomings. The first is that the maximum layer of such plaster should not exceed 50 mm, the second is that it is heavy, which entails the need for a reinforced foundation. But in general, this is an excellent insulation material for both external and internal work.
• Cork insulation. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.045 - 0.06 W/(m.K), density 240 - 250 kg/m3. This natural material perfect for internal insulation due to its performance qualities. The only serious disadvantage is the high degree of flammability. Best used for internal insulation.
• Ecowool or cellulose wool. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.032 - 0.038 W/(m.K), density 30 - 75 kg/m3. Ecowool obtained as a result of processing cellulose perfectly absorbs moisture and does not tolerate mechanical loads. Used only for internal insulation. It is usually used to insulate attics.

When starting to insulate an already built brick house, first of all you need to make a small project, indicating in it all the areas that require insulation with the materials used and their quantity. It should be remembered that for internal and external works Various materials are used. If the house is under construction, then everything necessary calculations indicated in project documentation All that remains is to purchase everything you need and start working.

As noted earlier, this type of insulation can only be carried out at the stage of wall construction. To do this you need to do the following:

1. First we lay the outer wall, where every 5 rows of brick we insert a metal pin made of wire with a diameter of 5 mm into the seam. We select the length of the pin in such a way as to recess it by 2 - 3 cm and the remaining part of the wire should be 2 - 3 cm greater than the thickness of the heat-insulating material used;
2. as soon as an external wall 1 - 1.5 m high has been erected, we begin installing the thermal insulation in place, resting the materials on the pins;
3. Finally, we lay the inner wall, after which we raise the outer wall again. And so on to the very top.

The method described above is suitable for materials produced in mats or slabs, such as polystyrene foam, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam. You can also use expanded clay. To do this, you will have to erect both walls at once to a height of 1 - 1.5 m, leaving a gap of 10 - 15 cm between them and tying them together with metal pins at the seams of the masonry. Then we pour expanded clay inside and continue building the walls. For this method of insulation, you should choose expanded clay of a large fraction. Since it has less density and hence its overall weight will be less.

Important! You don’t have to limit yourself to just in-wall insulation of a brick house. The walls of such a house can be additionally insulated from the outside.

Insulation of a brick house from the outside

External insulation of a brick house consists of insulating the walls, basement and outer walls of the foundation. The technology for insulating a brick house from the outside is to clean the walls of the building from construction waste and dirt for further fixing a multi-layer thermal insulation cake on them or arranging on top of bare walls hanging structure with thermal insulation placed inside. Materials you can use include polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, and “warm” plaster. In this case, one simple rule must be observed - the sequence of arrangement of materials for insulating the walls of a brick house from the outside should be such that the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer increases towards the outer edge.

To insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam, you need to do the following. Perform basic plastering of the walls to smooth out the main unevenness, then clean the surface of dirt and treat it with a primer. Then, in one of two ways, either with glue or with the help of facade dowels “umbrellas”, we fix the sheets of thermal insulation to the wall.

If you chose the first method, then you need to apply glue to the surface of the sheet and press it tightly against the wall. We carry out the work from the bottom up, placing the sheets gradually row by row. In this case, we shift each next row relative to the previous one, arranging the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. In this simple way, the stability of the entire structure is achieved. When fastening with façade dowels, we perform the same operations, with the difference that the glue is applied pointwise to the surface of the sheet in small portions. Then, after gluing, we drill a hole in the wall through the sheet into which we insert the dowel. The resulting surface is reinforced with a special mesh, plastered and finished with paint or decorative plaster.

Video: insulating a brick house from the outside with polystyrene foam

Another popular way of external wall insulation is to create ventilated facade. The creation work is as follows. The first thing you need to do is place a layer of vapor barrier on the surface of the wall, then create and anchor a metal or wooden frame. After this, we place a thermal insulation material between the frame slats, on top of which we lay a layer of waterproofing. For a ventilated façade, basalt or mineral wool is most often used. We fix the heat- and waterproofing materials to the wall using the already familiar façade dowels with a wide head. Finally, we install the outer skin made of siding, porcelain stoneware or other material.

The simplest and most accessible option for external insulation is to use "warm" plasters. The work consists of cleaning the walls from dirt, after which their surface is impregnated with a primer. Next, a plaster mesh and beacons are attached to the wall, along which “warm” plaster will be applied. After the plastered walls have dried, they can be finished with decorative bark beetle plaster, clinker tiles, decorative facade bricks, or simply painted.

Insulation of the foundation and basement of a brick house is carried out by analogy with walls, with the only difference that it is not customary to create a ventilated façade for the foundation or basement. Most often, insulation is performed with polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, clinker tiles or “warm” plaster.

Insulation of a brick house from the inside

Heat loss through external walls constitutes only a portion of the total heat loss. Most of the heat is lost through the roof and floor of a brick house. Of course, to more reliably retain heat, you can insulate the walls from the inside, and this will require very little effort. Let's consider the internal insulation of a brick house as it is being built, starting from the floor and ending with the roof.

Floor insulation in a brick house

It is best to insulate floors in a brick house during its construction. It is also possible to insulate an already built house, but this is associated with increased labor costs. This is due to the need to dismantle and repair an existing wooden or concrete floor. Floor insulation is carried out using polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral and basalt wool or expanded clay. Separately, we should highlight the “warm floor” system, which, in combination with conventional insulation, will retain heat and provide additional heating to the house.

During the construction of a new house, insulation of wooden floors is carried out as follows:

• Having created a structure of joists and a subfloor made of waterproof plywood, we lay a layer of waterproofing on top of them. We overlap the edges of the waterproofing material with each other, and bring the edges along the perimeter up with an overlap of 10 - 15 cm;
• Next, we place insulation in the space between the joists. If desired, a layer of vapor barrier can be laid on top of the insulation;
• the next will be a rough floor made of boards, on top of which the finishing floor and floor covering will be laid.

If the house has two or more floors, then the insulation of the floors of the upper floors will also be insulation of the ceiling in a brick house. In fact, you will have to create a wooden floor on joists with insulation inside on the second floor.

Creating thermal insulation in an already built brick house begins with dismantling and repairing the wooden floor. After which, if necessary, excess soil is excavated, a new substrate of sand and crushed stone is backfilled and compacted. Finally, the structure is assembled from logs and insulation according to the scheme described above.

If a wooden floor can still be disassembled with minimal labor costs, then a concrete floor will require enormous effort and a lot of time to remove old screed. Therefore, it is extremely important to insulate concrete floors during the construction stage of a house. The work itself is as follows:

• After creating and compacting a cushion of sand and crushed stone on the ground, we perform rough screed, lay a layer of waterproofing on top;

Important! To reduce the thermal conductivity of concrete, expanded clay should be added to it. Such concrete will have a thermal conductivity of 0.66 W/(m K), and not the usual 1.5 W/(m K).

• Next we lay the thermal insulation. For concrete floors, polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam are used. In addition to these materials, others can be laid. The main thing is to choose a material with the greatest strength and density of more than 160 kg/m3;
• on top of this multi-layer cake a layer of vapor barrier is laid and poured finishing screed, after which the finishing floor covering is laid.

Insulation of walls from inside a brick house

In most cases, insulation of walls inside a brick house is not carried out due to the presence of external thermal insulation. But sometimes internal insulation is still necessary. Especially when the thickness of the walls or the maximum layer of thermal insulation on the outside is not enough to retain heat. To insulate brick walls from the inside, mineral and stone wool, polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, cork or “warm” plaster are used.

Internal insulation of the walls of a brick house is as follows:

• clean the walls from dirt and saturate them with primer;
• using wooden beams or metallic profile, arrange the frame and secure it to the wall. The frame posts are placed in increments of 40 cm or 60 cm;
• if necessary, having trimmed the thermal insulation to fit the width of the opening between the posts, we lay it inside the resulting structure;
• We cover the top with plasterboard, plaster and apply the final finish.

Important! Internal insulation of a brick house with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam is extremely undesirable due to the toxicity and flammability of these materials.

Insulation of the attic and roof of a brick house

When it comes to the question of how best to insulate a brick house, it is impossible to ignore such parts of the house as the roof and attic. After all, it is through them that up to 40% of the total losses heat. This is due to the simple laws of physics, according to which warm air is lighter than cold air and therefore all the heat goes up. Therefore, in order to maintain heat in a brick house, it is so important to insulate the roof and attic.

To insulate the attic you need to do the following:

• if you use floor beams as joists, you can build the already familiar structure of a wooden floor with insulation, but with minor changes;
• We cover the beams themselves and the space between them with a vapor barrier;
• then fill the space between the beams with ecowool, mineral wool or basalt wool;
• On top, for ease of movement around the attic, we lay a subfloor made of rough boards.

Important! To maintain the performance properties of the attic and roof insulation, it is necessary to equip high-quality ventilation under-roof space.

Insulation of the roof of a house is carried out as follows:

• We lay it across the entire area of ​​the structure between the rafters and secure a vapor barrier. We let the edges of the material overlap each other and glue them with tape;
• We place thermal insulation material in the space between the rafters. This can be polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, mineral or basalt wool, as well as any other insulation with low thermal conductivity and low density;
• We lay another layer of vapor barrier on top and, to maintain the insulation in place, we attach the sheathing in increments of 0.4 - 0.5 m.

Despite the large amount of work involved in creating thermal insulation for a brick house, everything is quite simple. Anyone who knows how to use a tool and has minimal experience in construction work can carry out insulation. In order for everything to be done correctly, it is necessary to adhere to SNiPs and recommendations of specialists.

Practical and high-quality sand-lime brick is a material suitable for the construction of multi-story buildings. If construction technologies are followed and the correct grade of strength is selected, a ten-story building made of sand-lime brick (SBC) will last for decades, delighting residents with its comfort and warmth. In addition, manufacturers offer a large assortment of varieties of slabs, indicated for arranging load-bearing walls, internal partitions, self-supporting structures; the shape of the bars can also be varied, but there are some restrictions. Everything is worth talking about in more detail.

Sand-lime brick: production features

Its structure is almost identical to natural limestone. Today, plasticizers and other components are added to the composition to increase the moisture resistance of the material and strengthen its fragility.

Important! Brick production requires special equipment, so brick can be considered the least counterfeit building material.

Production stages:

1. Preparation of a mixture including sand, limestone, additives and water;
2. Forming and pressing the mass. Important point– the blanks remain in the molds until the last stage, therefore they retain ideal proportions;
3. Autoclave processing involves “acute steaming” at a temperature of 100 C and a pressure much higher than atmospheric;
4. The blanks are inspected and ready for sale.

The production process is similar to the production of foam and gas silicate blocks, so manufacturers often offer a full range of products.

Markings and material types

When choosing to build a house from sand-lime brick, you need to have a good understanding of the types of products. It is worth noting that in terms of frost resistance and density, SK is identical to ceramic, that is, the qualities are extremely high.

Important! All material characteristics are regulated by GOST 379-79.

The standard indicators of the finished product are:

• Strength - grades M125, M150;
• Frost resistance – F15, F25, F35;
• Thermal conductivity – 0.38-0.70 W/m.

Frost resistance means the ability of a material, in a state of complete water saturation, to withstand cycles of thawing and freezing without loss. high quality.

Strength is an indicator of a material’s ability to resist internal and external deformations. Digital designation The parameter shows the maximum permissible load per 1m2.

There are also different types of bricks: solid and hollow. Unlike ceramics, silicates are equipped cylindrical holes, located in the center of the bar. It is important that manufacturers often produce SCs in the shape required by the customer. The parties can be either medium or large.

Important! Production technology requires the use of equipment, the readjustment of which takes long time, therefore, if you are offered a small batch, then you will not be able to build a good house from such sand-lime bricks - it is counterfeit, made with manufacturing violations.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

When deciding to build a residential building from SK, you need to familiarize yourself with the positive and negative qualities of the product. The advantages include the following indicators:

• Increased load bearing capacity. With the strength and density of over 1500 kg/m3, which the bars have, you can be completely confident in the reliability of the structure. This class can withstand pressure up to 30 MPa, so hurricane winds, storms or mechanical damage are not a problem.
• The durability of the material is also extremely high. Moreover, even the appearance will remain unchanged, with a slight change in color. Qualitative characteristics remain ideal until the end of use of the building.

Important! SK facing elements meet higher requirements than the material intended for internal partitions.

• Resistance to fungi and mold. The lime contained in the material does not require additional antiseptic treatment, therefore, in a house if it is built from limestone, there will never even be the smell of mold.

Important! Lime compounds are a natural component, therefore sand-lime brick is classified as environmentally friendly pure materials. Artificial compounds (additives, plasticizers) make up no more than 0.3-0.7% of the total specific gravity.

• A house built from SC accepts and allows any type of finishing: vinyl panels, siding - whatever the owner wants.
• Economy. The material is at least 20% cheaper than ceramic brick, while the variety of shapes and textures allows you to implement the designs of any sand-lime brick houses. The color schemes are yellow, and the houses are made of white brick, photos of which are often found in the best magazines, look extremely noble and “rich.”

But with all the advantages, the material has a number of disadvantages:

1. The main disadvantage is the ability of the SC to accept water. The indicator reaches 11%, so the bars cannot be used when arranging foundations or cladding plinths.

Advice! Provided very good waterproofing, low lying groundwater, sand-lime brick can be used for cladding the base, but the strength characteristics deteriorate over time, which will lead to the destruction of the structure ahead of schedule minimal use.

1. Increased thermal conductivity requires good insulation. Moreover, insulation is needed in any region, since the property of thermal conductivity guarantees rapid cooling and heating of the building.
2. Although the product is fireproof and non-flammable, it does not tolerate excessive high temperature and begins to crumble.
3. Massiveness is another disadvantage of sand-lime brick. This means that you won’t be able to save on the foundation.

To make a choice, you should take into account the factor of evenness of the elements. Thanks to the production process, in which the blanks are released from the mold only at the very end, texture and geometric evenness are maintained throughout finished form. Increased performance properties do not affect the cost - it remains low regardless of the type and grade of material.

Important! The use of SK for lining and arrangement of furnaces is strictly prohibited. In a few years, such a structure will collapse, which can cause not only expensive repairs of the entire structure, but also a fire with complete destruction Houses.

Technological features of building a house made of sand-lime brick

If there is an order, bricklaying is not difficult even for a novice builder. However, you will have to be patient and attentive. The geometricity of the shapes helps to achieve a tight fit, but with the slightest carelessness, the dignity of the material will be lost. To carry out the work, you will need a cement mortar made of cement, water and sand, although many builders use a clay composition.

Important! The masonry mixture must be very thick, since the blocks have increased mass.

A trowel, a hammer for straightening the masonry and a plumb line with horizontal level. Each row needs to be checked for vertical and horizontal alignment. As for the features of the building, they are as follows:

1. Most often, a combination of sand-lime brick and ceramic masonry is used. SK for load-bearing wall panels and partitions, ceramics for cladding. This option significantly increases the strength and service life of the house, while reducing the cost of construction.

Important! The combination is advantageous in terms of the use of high qualities of both materials: internal partitions are rarely exposed to moisture, but must be extremely durable. The cladding often experiences aggressiveness external environment Therefore, excellent strength and resistance to water, snow and other phenomena is required.

1. SK masonry, as shown in the video, is similar to ordinary brickwork, but the first row is laid on a carefully waterproofed base without mortar, all others are laid on a cement or clay composition with a layer of at least 30 mm.
2. Laying is recommended using the “press-on” method, which increases labor intensity, but guarantees strength. To achieve filling of the joints, apply the mixture to the brick in a layer of 1 cm, and then remove the excess.
3. Be sure to wet the silicate before laying so that it does not draw water out of the mixture until it sets.
4. The thickness of the wall depends on the number of floors of the building and insulation requirements. The standard is considered to be one and a half bricks for low-rise buildings, while for more substantial buildings a double layer is required.
5. Additional reinforcement will provide the required strength of the structure. You can use wire by laying it in every third row.

Important! If the insulation parameters require few double bricks, laying is done in two and a half, however, with careful insulation, such laying is unprofitable.

How to insulate a house outside and inside

To insulate a house made of sand-lime brick, you can use almost any materials. The peculiarity of the application is that it is used for cladding external method, which has a lot of advantages:

• Conditions for condensation, that is, the “dew point” remains outside;
• The vapor permeability of SC is reduced, so choosing insulation material is much easier than for any other building material;
• Finishing the outside only, as shown in the video, does not reduce usable area premises inside;
• The insulation solution has little effect on the facade of the building, since beauty flaws can be covered up with any cladding.

There is no advice on choosing a material, since all indicators depend only on the requirements for insulation: if we are building a house in a warm climate, the lightest option is used; in colder latitudes, the shortcomings of the thermal conductivity of the insulating material must be neutralized with good insulation. An advantage for choosing thermal insulation is the low vapor permeability of sand-lime brick.

Important! Considered objectively, this point rather refers to the disadvantages, because of which the material is not recommended to be used in a humid climate, but for insulation, the disadvantages of permeability turn into advantages.

Brick is a traditional material for private construction. But unlike a tree, it necessarily requires high-quality insulation. If this is not done, then life in the house is unlikely to be pleasant and comfortable, especially during the cold season.

Peculiarities

Insulation of a brick house is a large complex of works. It is not enough to perform them only on the walls of the facade; you will need to carry out certain manipulations with the roof, other walls, base and floor. You should definitely take into account what specific type of brick was used, how the masonry was made, and in what climatic region the construction or repair is being carried out.

It will not be possible to insulate solid blocks from the outside using the same method that is suitable for parts with air cavities. The method of laying (continuous or providing an internal air gap) is also important.

When assessing thermal conductivity, you cannot rely only on tabular indicators that can be found on the Internet or in specialized literature. Technologies are changing rapidly, and each manufacturer is trying to introduce their own know-how, vary the recipe and processing modes. Therefore, you should only rely on official information from suppliers.

If you plan to lay the brick in a continuous layer, the insulation can be placed on one side or on both sides at once. The use of façade panels and intra-wall insulation of hollow masonry have their own subtleties.

Best materials

The thermal conductivity coefficient is a decisive indicator for any thermal insulation material. It is equal to the thermal energy that passes through 100 cm of coating in 60 minutes. If we proceed only from this parameter, then it is best to cover the brick wall with polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

But other nuances need to be taken into account, because if a material holds heat well, this does not mean that it is suitable for everyone possible cases. It is very important to pay attention to the intensity of moisture absorption - depending on this indicator, no material can compare with extruded polystyrene foam.

The same method of protection is also the most dense among all. If we take into account flammability (minimum class G1 - combustion stops after the fire ceases), then EPS and polystyrene foam are in approximately equal positions. It is not always possible to use expanded clay; it is only suitable for houses with well masonry.

Such thermal protection is created very simply, but over time it can become heterogeneous, which negatively affects the characteristics. Drywall can be used for insulation only indoors, because manufacturers’ claims about the resistance of some options to high humidity should not be taken seriously.

Using polystyrene, including penoplex, is relatively simple. Large slabs are sometimes equipped with a tongue-and-groove system; they can be glued from the base profile. This solution is suitable for siding, but few people will be satisfied with the level of permeability of the finishing layer for steam. If you still want to choose just such insulation, it is worth equipping the top with a full-fledged ventilated façade.

You can lay penoplex in the most different ways. A typical sheet has a width of 600 mm, length - 1.2 or 2.4 m. In different modifications, the thickness of the sheet varies from 20 to 100 mm. Among all versions, the “Facade” modification deservedly takes the first place, specially designed for finishing and thermal protection of permanent external walls.

Some amateur builders choose to insulate brick walls with aerated concrete blocks. Such a measure is recommended if there is a suitable support point and the entire structure is thought out very well. It is worthwhile in advance, in the process of preparing the load-bearing wall, to install fiberglass reinforcement in the form of releases.

It is not worth using expanded clay concrete for thermal protection of brick structures, since its thermal qualities are not good enough. Insulating a wall made of sand-lime brick with basalt wool is justified because it lasts a long time and is a completely natural solution. Instead of the loose or rolled version, it is best to take cotton wool slabs; they are considered the most reliable.

They began insulating houses with granulated foam glass back in the 1930s, but then it was very expensive and not very practical. The porosity of such a material obtained by modern technology, ranges from 80 to 95%. Coloring depends on what specific raw materials were used. Despite its lightness, the compression resistance of this material is very high, and the loss of heat to the outside is noticeably faster than even wood.

The advantage of foam glass is excellent damping of external noise; but we must not forget that it is quite expensive and can be destroyed by mechanical stress.

Characteristics

The standard thickness of insulation for brick walls is determined using simple formulas. It is better to focus on the standard of thermal resistance established for a specific region of the country. The second indispensable parameter for an accurate calculation is the thermal resistance of the main load-bearing surfaces, and the third is the same, but for thermal protection.

A half-brick wall is assumed to be 12 cm, one brick - 24 cm, and for a three-layer structure the calculation is carried out at a thickness of 0.8 m. A three-layer structure is a very rare and rather expensive option. The main part of the structures is made of one or one and a half bricks, and if there are less than three blocks, then throughout the entire post-Soviet territory it is impossible to do without insulation. This rule also applies to the coast of the Black and Azov Seas.

A common mistake is to insulate walls from the inside; it leads to condensation and other negative phenomena. For siding or ventilated facades, mineral or glass wool with a density of at least 40 kg and 17 kg per 1 cubic meter is most often used. m. respectively. When it is planned to insulate the walls with decorative bricks, it will be necessary to strengthen the foundation by adding mortar.

Whether the wall, after finishing with insulation, will be permeable to water vapor or not depends on the personal preferences of the owners. An exception is made only for the steam room, where the release of fumes to the outside is mandatory.

Which to choose?

Having familiarized yourself with the basic information on insulating materials, it is easy to understand that their choice cannot be dictated solely by financial considerations. An attempt to save money on insulation only results in additional costs during the operation of the building. Please note that depending on the option chosen, the following changes:

• composition of the required hand tools;
• types of machinery used;
• list of components;
• sequence of work;
• execution of the foundation.

A very light base will easily withstand the load created by the foamed polymer, but if ceramic granules are used, it will no longer be reliable. You also need to pay attention to whether external decorative finishing will be needed or whether the thermal protection parts themselves will be quite attractive in design.

If you need to install siding, facing bricks or plaster, you will also need adhesives, fasteners, geotextiles, and so on. This circumstance will significantly complicate the work. You should carefully separate materials for internal and external insulation.

In the second case, the requirements for environmental safety are much lower, but the danger of the destructive effects of moisture and wind increases. External insulation is preferable for another reason: they allow you to leave all load-bearing wall in the area of ​​positive temperatures and completely eliminate its freezing.

Application of internal insulation materials becomes mandatory in the following cases:

• by decision of state supervisory authorities, this is the only way to act;
• an unheated technical room was located immediately behind the wall (this is irrelevant for the facade of the house);
• very severe frosts are likely, which require the most intense protection of the habitable space.

Mineral wool, while not bad in itself, quickly becomes saturated with water. Therefore, you will need to cover it from the outside with waterproof films. If you want to make the thinnest possible “pie”, you should pay attention to extruded polymer mixtures, because they are almost impermeable to moisture and are characterized by increased strength. When assessing flammability, it is recommended to compare actual figures material with the requirements established by the fire department.

The advantage of roll and sheet coatings over liquid options is that they can be easily installed even by non-professionals who do not have specialized tools.

Current technologies

The most the best solution will not look for a suitable option among all the approaches to insulation possible in principle, but will focus on modern methods. They fully meet all regulatory requirements and, in addition, have incorporated concentrated centuries of experience. There are two key areas that are most in demand now:

• Sandwich format. Fully finished walls install a frame (made of wood or metal) into which insulation is placed. Decorative material is applied to the outside of the frame. The advantage of this method is its high strength and reliability, but the foundation of the building must also be strong and solid.
• "Wet façade" The insulation is glued with special mixtures, then it is covered with a reinforcing mesh and finishing. It is worth paying attention that polystyrene foam will be correctly mounted as a substrate for vinyl siding and other finishing materials.

The fastening method when choosing a “wet facade” is approximately the same as when working with foam plastic, namely:

• the first step is to clean the walls from dirt, dust and plaster;
• large cracks are covered with putty, and the surface as a whole should be covered with a layer of primer;
• a starting profile is placed and secured around the perimeter using dowel nails. Be sure to check horizontal lines with a building level;
• in addition to gluing polystyrene foam, sometimes it is attached with anchors or special pastes;
• fastening in the central part of the panels using dowel-nails increases the rigidity of the structure;
• it is necessary to seal the joints of the slabs with polyurethane foam, and to take a reinforcing mesh that is not destroyed by acids and alkalis.

If well masonry is being made, roll materials can be used to waterproof it from the inside. The actual insulation is carried out by filling with special reagents - lightweight concrete, slag, expanded clay and some others. The material must be compacted every 50 cm.

Much attention should be paid to insulating the corners, and the effect of a thermos should be achieved. It is recommended to study carefully chemical composition the coating being installed or the mixture poured inside, in order to be completely confident in their safety and reliability.

How to do self-installation?

Calculations

Even the most modern methods of insulating brick walls are available to ordinary people. The main condition for their use is accurate and competent design calculations. Only it allows you to simultaneously guarantee heat retention inside and minimal costs for performing work. In many cases, the simplest and most effective solution is to insulate walls with extruded polystyrene foam. Calculating the required indicators is quite simple.

For example, a wall is lined with full-weight bricks, each 30 cm thick. Heat transfer resistance is determined by dividing this thickness by the thermal conductivity of the material. This results in the difference between the normatively prescribed and actual thermal resistance.

Now you need to multiply this difference by the thermal conductivity coefficient of the selected insulation. The calculated result must, if necessary, be rounded to a whole value (since roll and slab thermal insulation is produced in multiples of 1 cm in thickness).

When several layers are used at once, their energy characteristics must be added together to avoid errors.

Insulation also has its own subtleties end wall in a house or apartment. In apartment buildings, such manipulation is rarely carried out outside, since it is very expensive and impractical. This must be preceded by a thorough search for possible cold bridges. As in other cases, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or basalt-based materials.

Sequence of work

Ceramic brick not only insulates the facade, but also looks attractive and serves reliably. But this is carried out only on the condition that the masonry is done according to the rules, its seams are completely even and not dirty. The slightest cracks or stains of mortar on the blocks are unacceptable. The mixture for fixing the masonry is formed with M-400 cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3.

It is worth paying attention that river sand cannot be taken, because it leads to rapid shrinkage of the solution if a plasticizer is not added. It is not at all necessary to create a classic gray seam: a wide variety of pigments are readily sold in sets with facing bricks.

The first step in the work will be preparing the waterproofing. For it they take either roofing material or thick polyethylene. Laying begins from the corners, leaving an air gap to the main wall (40–50 mm). The prepared solution should be relatively dense, but not too heavy for working with a trowel. A metal rod with a cross-section from 8x8 to 12x12 mm is placed on the front edges of the masonry.

Next to it, the solution should be level, and on the back side - about 1 cm higher. A vertical seam is created in a similar way. All stripes will need to be rubbed with a small brush after 120–180 minutes, covering any holes or nicks that are found. This will prevent water from getting inside from the external environment.