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Plastering brick walls. To help the home craftsman: how to plaster brick walls. Plastering brick walls

During the renovation process, you often have to apply plaster to the walls. Many people do this, but not many know the correctness of the entire process, that is, the technology.

Checking the horizontal surface using a building level

But from compliance with this very technology and the right choice The material depends on the durability and strength of the plaster. In general, the plastering process can be divided into two types: plastering wooden surfaces and concrete or brick.

The technology for plastering brick walls or concrete walls consists of several stages:

1. Preparation of walls;
2. Preparation of the solution;
3. Direct plastering work.

Preparatory work

The first thing you need to do is to thoroughly clean the wall of unnecessary objects, that is, dust, for example. It is also necessary to remove all oily surfaces from the walls.

This is best done with a five percent solution of hydrochloric acid– they need to process all the brick or concrete wall. If there is no acid, then with the help of a chisel and a hammer such places on the walls can be simply removed.

Next, seams up to one and a half centimeters deep should be cut out on the brickwork; small notches about 3-5 millimeters deep should be made on the bricks themselves. This can also be done using a chisel and hammer.

After this, it is again necessary to clean the surface from the resulting dust. In this case, you can use a damp broom. If we are talking about pure concrete slabs, then in order for the plaster to stick well, you need to make the same notches, the same depth but larger in size - about 10-15 millimeters. After this, the surface should be cleaned with a steel brush and the same damp broom.

The next stage of preparing walls for plastering is perhaps the most difficult stage in technological terms. After making all the cuts and grooves, it is necessary to mark the walls - hang them so that the plaster lies in an even layer, creating an exactly vertical surface.

Simultaneous plastering and leveling of the wall

At the very beginning, you need to drive in a nail, which should be located approximately 20-30 centimeters both from the ceiling and from the perpendicular wall. Let's call this nail nail A. It should not be driven in completely, but so that the head protrudes to the height of the intended width of the plaster layer.

Next, we tie a rope to the nail under the hat itself and lower it to the floor. There we drive in another nail, leaving as much undriven as necessary so that the head can touch the rope. Let's call this nail Nail B.

In exactly the same way you should mark the opposite side walls. Let's call the nails B and G. Now, using these nails, you need to check the evenness of the wall.

To do this, you need to tie nails A and B, C and D together with ropes. We tie the resulting vertical ropes and lightly pull another, but horizontal rope. By lowering it from top to bottom, you can easily see where the wall protrudes and where it has depressions.

It should be noted that the horizontal rope should never touch the wall or approach it at a very small distance, that is, the minimum thickness of the plaster layer.

If on any section of the wall the horizontal rope still touches the surface, then this section should be cut off. Sometimes it happens that it is at a minimum distance on almost the entire surface of the wall.

This means that the nails have been driven in too deep and need to be pulled out a little. You can do the same thing when cutting down a wall is impossible. And so, checking the evenness and establishing the required thickness of the plaster is completed, however, this is not the whole marking. Now you should install the marks, and then use them to install the beacons.

A small amount of solution (or other plastering material, which will be used for plastering) is applied to all four nails. Then it is necessary to level the surface of this layer of solution to the level of the cap. This can be done using a grater.

Next, you need to cut a piece of mortar with a trowel so that you get a square with a side of about 10 centimeters and a nail head in the center. When such marks are installed on all four nails, then you need to attach wooden rule- a rail with a width of 4 to 10 centimeters and a length of about one and a half or two meters.

Now the entire space that has formed between the wall and this wooden batten must be filled with a layer of mortar. When it dries, the slats can be removed, and the resulting strips will be beacons.

Later, at the last stage, that is, at the stage of the soil layer, all these marks and beacons must be removed. If they are made of the same plaster material as the rest of the plaster mixture, then they need to be cut down to a depth of up to 5 millimeters, but if the beacons are made of another, for example, gypsum mortar, then it is enough to simply remove them. All layers of plaster are applied in place of the marks and beacons.

Preparation of the solution

Covering mortar on a brick wall

The solution for each layer of plaster is different, but it consists of the same substances and is prepared in the same way. Their main difference is that the concentration of various substances in solutions is different. The preparation technology is simple: first mix cement with sand until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

Next, mix this whole mass with water, then the condition that is required. In order to increase the adhesion qualities of the solution and its plasticity, you can add various additives, such as a plasticizer, superplasticizer, PVA dispersion or latex.

The last two additives not only impart plasticity to the solution, but also an additional margin of safety. The solution should be applied in such a quantity that it can be used within no more than an hour and a half. During this time, it is allowed to be diluted with water and stirred, then it loses its plasticity and begins to crumble.

Plastering process

The process itself consists of three stages, like myself plaster layer, consists of three layers, which are applied at each stage. The stages are as follows:

1. splash;
2. Priming;
3. Covering.

Spray stage

The spray is the lowest layer of plaster. It should not be spread with a grater or trowel, but thrown onto the prepared surface. It is best to throw the solution onto the walls from left to right, or vice versa - the main thing is that the direction of the throw has a horizontal vector.

The essence of spraying is to cover the entire surface to be plastered with such throws of a small amount of solution. Before you start spraying, you need to wet the surface very well, otherwise the moisture from the solution will go into the wall, which will lead to the plaster losing its strength.

Ground stage

Plastering process using two spatulas

If a practically liquid solution was used for spraying, then for the soil it should be made a little thick. In fact, this is the main layer of the entire plaster. It is this layer that forms the main thickness of the plaster; it is also a leveling layer, that is, when leveling the entire plaster, the soil is leveled.

The primer should be applied to wet surface spray. If it happens that the spray has already dried, then you can simply moisten it with water, but not big amount. You can apply the primer with a trowel or a trowel. Apply the solution to the edges of the trowel and rub it over the wall, making movements from bottom to top. When about 2-4 square meters of soil have been applied, it should be leveled.

This can be done with a grater or the same grater. Movements can be made in any direction, the main thing is that the surface becomes as smooth and even as possible. This operation is needed in order to correct all resulting defects, for example, to re-apply where there is not enough solution or, conversely, to remove where there is a lot of it.

If the thickness of the required layer of plaster should be large, then the soil is divided into several layers, that is, it is applied several times. In this case, the first and subsequent layers, except for the outermost one, do not need to be aligned.

The thickness of each layer when plastering with lime-gypsum mortars should not be more than 7 millimeters; if we are talking about cement mortar, then the thickness should not exceed five millimeters.

Total thickness for ordinary plaster should not be more than 12 millimeters, if the plaster has improved performance - no more than 20 millimeters. All layers are applied only after the previous one has dried a little, but it should not dry out completely. To determine the degree of drying of a layer of plaster, simply press it with your finger: if it does not fall through, it means it is dry enough.

The last stage is covering

The last layer of plaster is the so-called covering. By the time it comes time to apply it, the soil will already be dry in some places.

It needs to be moistened with a paint brush or by lightly spraying with a spray gun, while allowing the moisture to be absorbed into the soil. This is necessary so that the cover adheres well to the ground.

The cover is simply cement applied to the ground. When hardening, cement forms a hard crust that protects the entire plaster from mechanical damage. It can be applied simply as a spray, or with a trowel, with a grater, in general, with any in a convenient way. When it is applied, it would not be a bad idea to lightly moisten it with water and the tool that will be used for rubbing.

Rubbing should be done as follows: the tool blade should be pressed against the surface of the plaster and not too sharp circular movements should be made.

After this, circular marks will remain; to get rid of them, you must now erase the marks. To do this, use the same grater to make sharper movements horizontally or vertically. This double grouting allows you to get rid of all minor defects.

For example, if the plaster has any uneven places in the form of nodules, then by pressing a little harder on the trowel, they are pressed in and the surface is leveled. If it is planned that the wall will be painted, then the plaster should also be ironed. This can be done using a steel trowel.

Wooden walls

The technology for plastering the exterior walls of log houses is somewhat different from the previous technology for plastering exterior brick walls. IN in a general sense it has the same steps:

1. Preparation of walls;
2. Preparation of the solution;
3. Plastering process.

All wooden walls of log houses need to be plastered only after they are assembled after one and a half, or even two years. During this time, the logs dry completely.

Preparatory work

Checking surface flatness

The first step is to test the walls for hardness or strength. You need to make sure that the walls do not wobble, bend or vibrate. In order for the logs to retain their appearance after plastering, that is, to prevent the log from twisting, splitting, and so on, it is necessary to chip a little into each board that makes up the wooden base.

Wooden wedges need to be driven into these splits. They will keep the wood from the above possible defects. Next you should put so-called shingles on the wall. It will help hold the layer of plaster on the wooden wall. The shingles consist of small slats, the thickness of which is no more than five millimeters and the width of no more than 20 millimeters.

You should start filling the shingles from the corner. First, we nail one batten to the wall diagonally. Then, moving from this rail up or down, we fill the second rail in parallel and so on until the very corner, down and up.

The step should be approximately 7-12 centimeters. When the bottom layer is filled, we begin to nail it upper layer. It is nailed in exactly the same way, only the first rail should lie at an angle of 90 degrees to the lower slats, that is, you need to start nailing from the opposite corner.

The first layer of slats is fastened with nails in increments of no more than five centimeters. As a result, cells should form between the shingles. The recommended side of such a square cell should be approximately 45-50 millimeters, so the pitch between the slats should be selected based on this indicator and the width of the slats itself. The top layer of shingles must also be nailed, but the step should be about 10 centimeters.

The second, more effective option would be to use ready-made shields rather than piece shingles. When upholstering a wall with such shields, the joints should be made close to each other, and not overlapping, so that later the thickening of the plaster layer does not occur. Before upholstering walls with shingles, in order to increase sound insulation and to insulate the wall, you should first nail felt, matting or other insulating materials to the wood itself.

Plastering walls with your own hands

As a third option, you can use a metal mesh, the cells of which for walls should be no more than 50 millimeters. To secure it to the wall, you need to drive nails into the base at a distance of about 10 centimeters from each other.

Then we pull the mesh over these nails as tightly as strength allows. The durability of the future plaster depends on this: if the mesh is loosely stretched, it will constantly oscillate, which will lead to cracking of the entire plaster surface and, as a result, crumbling.

You can make such a mesh yourself. We hammer nails onto the wall in increments of 4-5 centimeters and stretch a wire between them, which should wrap around each nail one turn. The wire should also be pulled very tightly so that the resulting mesh does not vibrate.

Before starting such work, all nails and wires must be coated with a primer, which can be cement laitance. This procedure allows you to protect the metal from oxidation and, accordingly, from rust, which is very undesirable. When metal is corroded by rust, it acquires a volume three times greater than the original.

This expansion will cause the plaster to crumble. Also, when preparing the surface, you should remove all oil stains using a five percent solution of hydrochloric acid.

Metal mesh should also be used when connecting two walls made of different materials, for example, wood and brick. It is stuffed onto the mating corner, so that the mesh extends half a meter on each side. Also, at all corners of wooden walls that protrude, a strip should be nailed to the top of the wooden shingles. metal mesh about 20 centimeters wide. The mesh will help strengthen the corners and prevent cracks from forming.

Preparation of the solution

The procedure for preparing the solution is no different from the previous case with plastering brick surfaces. The solution has the same properties. Previously, plaster was produced not with cement mortar, but with a mixture of lime and red clay. This solution is suitable for wooden surfaces.

Plastering process

This process is slightly different from the process of plastering brick walls. There are still three stages:

1. splash;
2. Priming;
3. Covering.

The difference lies in the second stage. The first stage also involves directing the liquid solution and, using movements along a horizontal plane, spraying it over the entire surface of the wall.

The second stage begins with a layer of thicker cement mortar being applied to the wall. Then the alignment process occurs. This is where the difference lies. If the primer is applied in too thin a layer, then the slight unevenness will hardly be corrected later, since the cement simply will not allow the shingles or mesh to be pressed in. Therefore, when applying the solution, you should correctly calculate the layer thickness at the very beginning.

The third stage also involves applying a thin layer of cement and rubbing it in with a float.

Both wooden and brick walls can be plastered using ready-made plaster sheets. Brick walls that have a fairly flat surface can be plastered with ready-made sheets by attaching them to mastic.

If the walls are wooden, then such sheets are attached to a wooden frame. Beams with a maximum thickness and width of five centimeters are nailed to the walls.

All beams should be at an equal distance from the wall, that is, lie in the same plane. The beams can be attached to a wooden wall with nails. Those beams on which the joint will be located must be coated with glue or mastic. The sheets themselves are nailed to wooden frame tar nails, that is, those that have wide heads. These caps should be driven a little into the slab so that it is not visible.

After all the slabs are filled, it’s time to caulk the joints. This work can be done with putty or mastic. After the seams have dried, they should be sanded with sandpaper.

Plastering the ceiling

The technology for plastering walls and ceilings is practically the same. The differences are only in the details, but the principles remain the same.

You can plaster a concrete ceiling only after two months have passed from the date of construction of the house. Since concrete also needs time to dry and reach normal humidity of 2-3 percent. If the concrete is too damp, the plaster will begin to peel off and crumble onto the floor.

Preparatory work

Before plastering, the ceiling should be cleaned of dirt, dust, and all greasy spots. Just as when plastering walls, stains can be removed using a five percent solution of hydrochloric acid, and if this is not available, then any solvent or gasoline will do.

After removing all excess, it is necessary to make the smooth concrete slab a little rough so that the plaster adheres securely to the ceiling. Roughness concrete slab A regular metal brush will help.

After the ceiling has been treated with this brush, it should be washed to remove any resulting dust. A damp, dampened broom works best here. After the ceiling has dried, it must be primed.

Preparation of plaster mixture

Dry plaster mixture It is necessary to pour it into a container and fill it with clean, free of foreign objects, water. Then the plaster mixture should sit for 5-7 minutes. Next you need to mix it thoroughly.

It is advisable that the prepared solution be used at a time, since if it is left for a long time, it will thicken. And if you then dilute it with water, it will lose its qualities and such plaster will not be durable. The same rules apply to plaster mortar made from cement and construction sand.

Ceiling markings

Marking the ceiling is done in exactly the same way as in the case of brick wall. You can make markings using marks and beacons, or you can simply stuff the guide rails and fill the space between them.

In this case, you will constantly have to monitor the evenness of the surface, since the thickness of the slats is much greater than the plaster layer. The second point that should be taken into account when plastering using guide slats is that after the solution applied to the mixture has not completely dried, it is necessary to remove the slats and seal the resulting grooves with the solution.

Application of the solution

Plaster application consists of three stages. First, cover the ceiling with a thin layer of liquid mortar. Then on top of this layer we place the main plaster layer, which should not exceed 10 millimeters. If a layer thicker than one centimeter is required, then it is necessary to apply the solution in several stages.

When the layer of plaster has dried, but not completely, after wetting it, you can apply the next one. If the plaster is applied in one layer, then after it has dried, the surface should be rubbed with a trowel, while constantly wetting the plaster surface. Next we apply the top layer.

To do this, sprinkle the surface of the trowel with cement and rub it into the plaster surface.

Wooden ceiling plaster

The difference between plastering a wooden and concrete ceiling is that these two surfaces are prepared differently. First, all debris and greasy stains must be removed from the tree, then the shingles must be nailed. It is nailed a little differently than to a wall.

First we nail the diagonal slats, then all the other slats in parallel, moving away to the right and left. The distance at which two parallel slats should be from each other must be selected on the basis that the length of the side of the resulting cell should not exceed four centimeters.

When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the width of the rail. The bottom layer of slats is nailed in increments of 3-4 centimeters. We nail the top layer in increments of 6-8 centimeters. When all the preparatory work is completed, we apply a solution that is no different from the above solutions and plaster it.

After this, level the surface with a float and apply a top layer of plaster. If the ceiling is being plastered for painting, then traces of the trowel must be removed by the same rubbing, only not in a circular motion, but from left to right or away from you and towards you. After this, the ceiling needs to dry. With a normal plaster layer thickness of 5-7 millimeters and good air flow, the plaster dries within a week.

Often, in the process finishing works, builders are faced with the problem of primary processing of brickwork. In this case, the question arises: how to properly plaster a brick wall. This process does not require special skills and can be done even by a person far from construction. However, plastering brick walls has its own nuances, without which the desired result cannot be achieved. In this article we will look at how to plaster a brick wall with your own hands, which will allow you to avoid mistakes and shortcomings.

Brick wall without finishing

Selecting a working mixture

The first question that arises in a builder’s mind is what is the best way to plaster brick walls inside a house? Today, there are many different compositions and mixtures used for interior finishing work, but the most optimal choice It is still considered a mixture, the basis of which is cement. If you are still wondering how to plaster a brick wall, then pay attention to cement - this universal material, it is also often used for the primary finishing of the external facades of a building.

The main advantages of cement-sand plaster include the following factors:

1. long service life. On average, a cement finish lasts about 30 years;
2. cheapness. The components of the mixture have a low market value and are therefore available to a wide range of consumers;
3. high ductility due to long drying time. Correction or correction of unevenness in the applied layer is possible even several hours after completion of work;
4. the material has good resistance to high humidity, so it is optimally used when finishing showers or bathrooms;
5. The work does not require special skills or expensive equipment.

Of course, there are also disadvantages that must be taken into account when carrying out finishing work:

1. plastering brick requires some skill and some physical effort, so it is worth first mastering some skills associated with this type of work;
2. As mentioned earlier, the solution takes quite a long time to dry.

Reinforcing mesh for plaster

When carrying out work, you should also know that due to the physical parameters of the solution, the primary layer should not be too thick (up to 3 cm). Therefore, if you need to increase the thickness of the plaster layer, you will have to use a reinforcing mesh. If you are using the solution for exterior finishing, then to increase the strength of the solution it is necessary to add “boiler” (calcium oxide, quicklime).

Important! There is a little trick on how to improve the thermal insulation of a room. To do this, you need to add a certain amount of porous substance (pumice sawdust, etc.) to the solution. This will significantly improve the quality characteristics of the solution and subsequently save you heating costs.

A few words about decor

Plaster of brick walls can also be used as a decorative finish. To do this, the surface is first prepared by applying a base base to the masonry, and then using special tools and application techniques, the room is decorated. This will look very unusual and attractive, and the walls in the room will have increased water-repellent and antiseptic properties. In addition, you can paint the walls with special emulsion paint and create unique interior premises. Currently on the market wide choose paint and varnish materials various colors and modifications, which will allow you to bring to life the most extraordinary design idea.

Surface preparation process

The main stage in finishing work is preparing the surface for the subsequent application of plaster. This process consists of clearly defined stages, each of which has an important role and affects the final result. Initially, the surface is checked for unevenness, dents and cracks. This allows for a preliminary assessment of the “work front”. Next you need to check the presence of all necessary tools and materials.

There is a certain list of tools needed for brick plastering. This is primarily a trowel (or trowel) - for mixing the working mixture, for applying the solution and subsequent leveling the surface. For similar purposes, a falcon and a set of spatulas of different sizes can be used. To remove corners it is worth purchasing special tool, called a “grater” - it is best to use standard and oval. Additional equipment includes a smoothing iron, a brush (or spray bottle), building level, usually a tape measure, a plumb line and a pencil.

Important: It is necessary to take care in advance about purchasing tools and materials for finishing work, so that at the decisive moment it does not turn out that the tape measure is not at hand or there is an insufficient number of spatulas. It is also worth carefully calculating the sufficient volume of the mixture for the work being carried out.

Primary treatment of brick walls

At the first stage of surface preparation, a visual inspection of the brickwork is carried out, and the presence of loose bricks or uneven layers is not allowed. This problem is especially typical for Soviet buildings of the 60-70s, in particular near door or window openings. Serious defects can be eliminated by strengthening the masonry cement mixture(if this material is unavailable, it can be replaced with polyurethane foam).

All small cracks, chips and irregularities must be eliminated by covering them with cement mortar or another similar composition. It is also possible to eliminate unevenness without prior “restoration” of the masonry - as a result, plaster is applied to an unprepared surface in two or three layers. From quality preparatory work the durability and durability of the composition depends, and preliminary correction of the masonry will increase the mechanical stability of the surface.

Surface priming and reinforcement

Do I need to prime a brick wall before plastering? Definitely yes. In the process of finishing brick walls, priming occupies a special place, which prevents the absorption of excess moisture from the cement mortar. In addition, priming creates a special layer to ensure stronger adhesion between the brickwork and the plaster mortar. Moreover, it is recommended to apply the primer composition in two layers.

As for reinforcement, this process is not mandatory. Reinforcement of brick walls is used when finishing surfaces with a large number of cracks, irregularities or dents. Reinforcement technology involves fixing a special mesh to metal fasteners that are “pressed” into the layers between the bricks. It is recommended to pre-deepen the mortar joints for better adhesion of the first layer. Reinforcing elements must be made of materials that are not subject to corrosion - an excellent option would be plastic mesh. The use of metal mesh may cause rust to appear on the surface after some time. surface layer plaster.

Preparation of plaster mixture

This process requires additional study. It would be a good idea to watch training videos on the Internet to be more prepared for work operations. We will look at three main nuances that should be taken into account when preparing the plaster mixture:

• firstly, you can use a purchased mixture to plaster the brickwork - in this case, you should strictly follow the procedure outlined in the instructions;
• secondly, the plaster solution is intended for one-time use only (it can only be diluted once). After which the mixture must be left for a while and water must be gradually added, stirring the composition until the desired, homogeneous consistency is obtained;
• thirdly, if you are going to independently determine the ratio of components in the solution, then pay attention to the conditions further exploitation(on temperature regime, air humidity, surface condition).

After preparing the plaster mixture, you can begin the process of plastering the surface. However, you should first form a small amount of solution for installing the beacons. The working composition is made after the installation of the beacons - it must be new and more liquid.

Installation of beacons

When plastering brickwork, they are used as beacons. metal profiles standard sizes. To save time on installation, it is recommended to “adjust” the profiles in height before preparing the mixture. For cutting beacons, ordinary metal scissors are suitable. At the initial stage, two outer metal profiles are installed. A layer of the prepared solution is applied strictly along one line, and the lighthouse strip should easily fit into the so-called “cakes”. This creates the outer boundary of the plaster layer of the brickwork. Next, the strings are tensioned between the lower and upper ends of the slats (in the vertical plane). This is done to determine a single contour along the level of which other beacons are mounted.

Applying plaster

This is the basic process of plastering brick walls. The solution is applied in two or three layers, and it is necessary to take into account the conditions of further operation. The first layer is applied using the “spray” technology - the solution for the surface layer should be of a fairly thick consistency (in the form of “liquid sour cream”). Before application finishing material The walls need to be moistened with water, and then a five millimeter layer of plaster must be applied. The “spraying” technology involves the use of a trowel, through which the solution is scattered throughout the brickwork. After this, the unevenness should be smoothed out and wait until the solution dries completely.

The second layer of plaster should have the consistency of dough - it is also applied to the walls in places of unevenness or depressions. After the solution has completely dried, the surface is leveled using a flat wooden lath or using a metal profile - when leveling the coating in the bottom-up direction, excess plaster is removed. The final leveling of the surface is carried out with a trowel after applying the third layer.

For the third layer, it is necessary to prepare the most liquid composition. Before applying it, the wall is re-wetted with water. The plaster is laid in a thin layer using neat, smooth movements, and it should slightly cover the surface of the beacons.

The final stage of plastering brick walls

After applying the solution and completely drying, it is necessary to remove the metal profiles. Fill the resulting voids with a pre-prepared mortar, and then completely level the surface of the brickwork.

At the last stage, sanding of the plastered coating is also carried out. This must be done in a circular motion over the uncured mixture using a wooden or plastic “trowel”. The procedure can be carried out in several approaches so that the result is a perfectly flat surface of the brick wall. As practice shows, an excellent addition to sanding the coating is to “finish” the walls using a special grater with a layer of felt or felt.

Plastering brick walls is great way prepare the surface for large-scale finishing work in the shortest possible time. Plastering brick walls with your own hands does not require special construction knowledge and skills, but it can significantly improve the final result repair work– this is especially true for the restoration of brick walls, which are characterized by the presence of a large number of irregularities. In addition to its decorative function, plastering helps improve the technical and operational properties of the surface.

Finishing brick walls indoors requires mandatory work to level them. During construction, even theoretically, it is impossible to obtain a flat surface, so you have to level it. The same must be done when renovating an apartment - the old leveling layer must be replaced. In such cases, plastering brick walls comes to the rescue.

To carry out any construction work You need to have building materials and a set of tools on hand. How to plaster brick walls indoors?

Materials:

• Portland cement M400 or M500 or dry plaster mixtures;
• River sand, washed from clay and sifted;
• Fiberglass fiber - added to plaster to prevent cracking of its surface;
• Plasticizers (PVA glue - to speed up setting, liquid soap to slow down the hardening process);
• Water;
• Primer for bricks (Ceresit CT 16, Condor Tiefgrund LF, Alpina Primer).

Tools and accessories:

• Stepladder (you can prepare a special portable platform - goats) to create more comfortable working conditions at a height of 1.5 m to 2.5-3.0 m;
• A hammer drill will be needed: for filling cracks and deepening seams between bricks; drilling holes for dowels when installing beacons; stirring the solution (when changing the nozzle, use it as a mixer);
• Dowels with self-tapping screws - for fastening the guide beacons to the brick;
• Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver for screwing in self-tapping screws;
• Metal profiles for lighthouses;
• Tape measure - needed for marking beacon lines and determining the thickness of the plaster;
• Plumb line - it controls the vertical installation of profiles;
• The rule with a level 2.0-2.5 m long is used when installing guide profiles of beacons and leveling freshly applied mortar;
• Metal scissors (grinder) for cutting the profile of beacons;
• Hammer;
• Chisel - for removing remnants of plaster and filling cracks;
• Paint brush (spray gun or roller) for applying primer to walls;
• Primer tray;
• Construction (bubble) level;
• Steel brush or scraper (another name is “cutting off”) - for cleaning brickwork from old paint, wallpaper. It also helps to remove unevenness from the old mortar, as well as those formed when applying new plaster;
• Container for preparing plaster (10-15 l bucket);
• Bush hammer is a highly specialized tool for making notches on walls for better adhesion (adhesion) of the mortar to the brick. It looks like a heavy hammer with teeth on the end. Its varieties are Troyanka and serrated;
• Bucket for applying mortar to the wall. Replaces the falcon and trowel, but does not replace them completely. Experienced craftsmen practically do not use it. Therefore, you can safely do without it;
• Falcon - wooden plank with a handle attached in the middle. Used to transfer the solution from the bucket to the wall. First, apply the plaster mixture onto the board with a trowel, and then use it to take the solution from the falcon and apply it to the wall. It is also used to level the applied plaster;
• Trowel also has other names - trowel, plastering spatula. It is a steel blade polished on both sides small sizes with a curved handle. With its help: dose the components of the mixture when mixing it; stir the solution in the absence of a mixer; put plaster on the falcon; throw plaster mortar onto the wall;
• A trowel is used to smooth out the plaster layer after several throws of the mortar with a ladle or trowel. Having an elongated shape and a beveled end, it covers corners and narrow parts of walls well. Due to the fact that it is light and smooth, the solution does not stick to it;
• Grater - for final leveling of the surface. They may have different working surfaces. Graters with replaceable attachments appeared on sale;
• Malka. Used for leveling plaster in the presence of external corners (window and door slopes);
• Smoothing iron - used to smooth the covering layer. Indispensable when applying decorative plaster - with its help you can get the thinnest layer of it;
• Set of spatulas. A narrow tool is used for sealing cracks and joints, while a wide one is needed for applying and rubbing putty when finishing the wall after plastering. A spatula with a rubber surface is needed for plastering shaped and spherical surfaces.

Attention: experienced professionals use two rules. A short one, no more than 1.5 m, is more convenient for leveling the applied plaster, a long one is for checking the quality of the work performed.

What is better to plaster brick inside the house, and what to do outside?

How to plaster brick walls inside a house? For these purposes, you can use any plaster mixtures from:

• cement;
• gypsum;
• clay;
• lime, with the addition of any of the above components to the base.

External plastering of brick walls is carried out only with cement-sand or lime mortar. If you finish the facade with a mortar using gypsum or clay, then very soon the plaster on the outside of the house will begin to crumble - on the street it is damaged by rain, wind and sun.

Preparatory work

How to plaster a brick wall with your own hands? To begin plastering work directly, you should perform a number of sequential operations:

1. prepare the wall surface;
2. install beacons;
3. apply a primer to the brick or install a mesh.

Its durability completely depends on the quality of preparation of the wall for applying plaster. Remains of old plaster mortar, oil stains from paint, poorly cleaned surfaces of bricks from wallpaper residues are the main reasons for the plaster layer to sag.

Experts believe that high-quality plastering is only possible if a third of the time for facing work is spent on preparing the walls for plastering.

The technology for preparing a wall for applying plaster involves performing a cycle of work.

1. Complete all civil and installation work connected to the wall: lay hidden electrical wiring; install door and window boxes; attach various kinds of hooks and pins to the wall for wall furniture and household appliances.
2. Thoroughly clean the wall from any remaining paint, wallpaper, or old mortar. Traces of oil paint can be cut off or removed using oily clay. If this work is carried out poorly, the solution simply will not stick to the wall in poorly cleaned areas.
3. Seal cracks - they reduce sound insulation, increase heat loss, serve as a source of condensation, open masonry seams for better adhesion of the plaster to the wall.
4. Apply notches to the brick to create adhesion between it and the mortar.
5. Treat the entire surface of the walls with a penetrating primer.

Attention: step-by-step instruction on preparing walls for plastering work is described in the material “”.

Installation of beacons

By professionals high level plastering work is rarely performed with the installation of beacons. However, a beginner in this type of facing work will not be able to do without them.

Their installation is quite simple, unlike beacons under the floor screed. To do this, you will need guide profiles, a plumb line, a tape measure, dowels with self-tapping screws and nylon thread (can be replaced with fishing line). The work is performed in the following sequence:

• The guides of the beacons are adjusted to the height of the room using metal scissors or a grinder;
• At a distance of 50-100 mm from the corner of the wall, floor and ceiling, self-tapping screws are screwed into the dowels (holes for dowels are drilled with a hammer drill or drill). Above the wall, the screws should protrude to the thickness of the plaster layer;

Important: if the ceiling is higher than 2.5 m, you must also screw in the screw in the middle of the wall.

• Using a plumb line, the screws are installed in one vertical plane;
• Similar work is carried out in another corner of the wall;
• A fishing line is stretched horizontally between the screws. If somewhere the wall extends beyond the stretched line, the layer of plaster increases (the screws on one of the beacons are gradually unscrewed);
• The number of beacon lines is determined, and the distance between them should be no more than 1.5 m (the optimal value is 1 m);
• Self-tapping screws are screwed into the ends of each line of beacons;
• Small piles of plaster mortar are applied vertically between the screws, into which the guide profiles are pressed. Their vertical is controlled by a plumb line, and the solution protruding beyond the profile is cut off.

Important: after the plaster has set, the beacons and screws are removed, and their traces are sealed with putty.

Preparation of plaster

What is the best way to plaster brick walls inside a house? For these purposes, you can use a solution:

• Based on cement and sand. Most effective in the bathroom and kitchen where there is high humidity;
• Gypsum or gypsum-lime. The addition of gypsum increases the strength of the plaster, but it can only be used indoors, without changes in humidity;
• Limestone (only slaked lime is used).

A detailed analysis of the advantages and disadvantages of the components of the plaster solution is made in the article “”.

The easiest way is to take a ready-made plaster mixture and prepare it according to the instructions printed on the package. More economical option- buy the components of the solution separately and mix them yourself.

It must be borne in mind that gypsum accelerates the setting of the solution. In the absence of sufficient experience in finishing work, plaster based on it will harden in a mixing container - an inexperienced specialist simply will not have time to transfer it to the wall. In such cases it is necessary to use sand-cement mixture. Its preparation is not difficult.

2 parts of sand and one part of M400 cement are poured into the mixing container (if Portland cement M500 is used, 3 parts of sand are taken) and stirred. A little fiber is added and stirred again.

A little fiber is again added to the resulting mixture and stirred again (if the fiber is added in one portion, the output may be lifeless balls, which will have to be removed from the dry solution and discarded).

Only after thorough stirring is water added in small portions until you get a mass similar in consistency to thick sour cream. When applying primer (this is the 2nd layer in the language of builders), the solution is stirred until the dough becomes thick.

Important: if the solution is not used in a timely manner, it begins to thicken. It is strictly forbidden to add water and return it to its previous fluidity - the proportions of the plaster components are violated, which will certainly affect the quality of the work.

Application of the solution

How to properly plaster a brick wall yourself? Here you need to adhere to the following recommendations.

• The volume of the batch should be small in order to have time to place it within 1 hour.
• The stirred solution must be given a few minutes to “rest”.
• Plaster work is carried out in 3 layers - in builder slang they are called spray, primer and covering (the minimum thickness of the plaster layer is 1 cm).
• The solution for the first layer (spray) is prepared in the required proportion of 1 to 2 - increased amount a binder is necessary for better adhesion of the solution to the wall. Consistency: sour cream.

Attention: if the walls have not been primed, they must be wetted before plastering. If this is not done, the wall will take some of the water from the solution, thereby changing its proportions. As a result, the hydration process will be disrupted.

• The first layer starts from the lower left corner. They lead from bottom to top, from left to right. First, the space between the first and second beacons is closed, then the second and third, etc. The thickness of the spray is 4-5 mm, which allows for good adhesion of the solution to the wall. It is applied with a trowel by sharply throwing a small amount of plaster onto the wall (hence the spray). In this case, you need to use a brush, and not your whole hand - this is the only way to ensure that all voids are filled with the solution. The solution is supplied from the container to the wall on a falcon. After 3 minutes, strongly protruding areas are either removed or smoothed. There is no need to level the spray.

The initial layer of solution can be applied using another method - spreading. Its essence: the solution is applied to the falcon with a trowel, brought to the wall and spread over it with a plaster spatula.

• The next layer - soil - is laid with thicker plaster (approximately like dough) and a different ratio of components (cement / sand as 1/3). Apply after the first layer has completely dried. Maximum thickness 20 mm. Application technology: the plaster is applied to the wall with a trowel, mainly on those places where there are indentations after spraying, then it is leveled from the bottom up (the excess is returned to the container with the solution). If there are any depressions left, plaster is thrown over them again and the rule is put into action again. The final leveling of the soil is done with a trowel. They can work up and down or left and right. If the soil layer thickness exceeds 2 cm, then its application must be carried out in two stages.

Important: if the plaster thickness is more than 3 cm, it is economically feasible to abandon plastering the walls and level them with gypsum board.

• Before applying the third layer, covering, the second layer must dry thoroughly. The solution is made liquid and preferably only from cement. When mixed with sand, the parts should be equal, and the components should be sifted on a fine sieve so that there are no lumps or small pebbles. Apply with a trowel no more than 2 mm thick. Before application, the wall is wetted with water. Smooth with a trowel in a circular motion. Here you will also need a wooden (plastic) smoother.

Attention: the cover should slightly cover the guide profiles of the beacons.

After the plaster has set, the beacons are removed and the marks are sealed or cement-sand mortar, or putty.

Final stage

The final work of plastering the walls is grouting. It can be done both on a set but still wet layer of plaster, and after it has completely dried after a few days. To work, you will need a grater and a small amount of solution.

At this stage, minor defects in the plaster are repaired and protruding strips of mortar are removed. According to technology, the grater must always be clean, so it must be constantly washed with water. If grouting work is carried out on a completely dry layer of mortar, then before grouting it must be moistened with water from a spray bottle.

Grouting is done with a trowel in a circular motion. Some specialists do this “overclocking,” which is much more difficult. Experienced craftsmen also use a grater with felt stuffed on the surface.

This completes the plastering work. For further work, the walls need to be thoroughly dried and only then primed, puttyed, painted or wallpapered.

Differences between plastering walls outside and inside

When comparing technologies for plastering brick walls from the outside and inside, we note several important points:

1. When applying plaster to the outside walls of a building - the best option cement-sand mortar.
2. The walls are necessarily covered with mesh.
3. Before installing beacons, the corners of the building, door slopes and window openings upholstered with special plastic corner, acting as a reinforcing mesh.
4. The thickness of the plaster layer should not exceed 15 mm.
5. Before applying the covering, the plaster is primed 2 times.

Otherwise the technologies are the same.

Despite regularly appearing on the list wall materials new items, traditional plastering is not losing ground at all. For brickwork, this type of finishing is especially relevant, since compared to other surfaces, it is characterized by the greatest unevenness.

Even when covering walls with tiles and stones, the base surface has to be leveled. One way or another, the question: “How to plaster a brick wall?”, which invariably worries everyone who wants to do it with their own hands, requires detailed explanation. Our story, as well as the video in this article, will help you understand this issue.

Organization of work

Each master has his own technique for performing certain works, his own preferences in consumables, and even the formulation of solutions - if they are not factory-made, but are made independently, from individual ingredients. As a rule, this is dictated by practical skills, but those who do not have them must first become familiar with the theory.

In order to know how to properly plaster a brick wall, you must first of all be guided by an official document. In this case, these are typical technological maps: in one of them (No. 106-05 TK), given detailed instructions for the production of plastering works on brickwork.

For our part, we will try to convey this information more compactly and give useful recommendations on the use of certain materials. You can also type in the search bar “how to plaster a brick wall video” and visually familiarize yourself with the practical side of this issue.

Requirements for initial plastering

Before plastering brick walls, they must be properly prepared for this. If the house has just been rebuilt, you can start work only at a certain stage of the building’s readiness.

In this regard, the TTN puts forward clear requirements, and this is how they are expressed:

• At the time the rough finishing of the walls begins, all general construction and installation work must be completed. These also include installation of the roof and arrangement of the entrance.
• Wiring needs to be completed electrical wires, laying pipes, as well as sealing all grooves and channels. Regarding heating and plumbing systems, then they must be pre-pressured.
• All internal enclosing structures, door blocks, windows and window sills must be installed, and their junctions with the walls must be sealed.

Before you begin leveling the walls in an unheated house, it is necessary to eliminate drafts in the room, as well as ensure a temperature of at least +10 degrees. Moreover, it must be maintained constantly, starting with pre-warming two days before the start of work, and for 10-12 days after completion.

Quality of solutions

If we are talking about conventional plastering, then the choice of solution is made depending on the operating conditions of the coating. When a building is built according to a project, it has an approved specification for materials. According to this document, plaster mortars are also used (see How to prepare a mortar for plastering walls).

• In private construction and when performing renovations of apartments and residential buildings, the selection principle, as a rule, is as follows: gypsum solutions are used in dry rooms; high humidity cement, and for facades - polymer cement.

• Considering the ease of use of dry building mixtures, which are simply diluted with water, today it would hardly occur to anyone to make the solution themselves - except perhaps when you need to plaster a barn or garage. Despite the fact that the price of a solution mixed independently will be significantly lower, it, like a factory solution, must meet the requirements set out in the set of rules SP 82-101-98.
• Since the vast majority of plastering work is carried out using factory-prepared dry mixtures, we will not focus on the formulations of the solutions. Here the manufacturer has thought through everything for us, and we think everyone is capable of measuring the right amount of water correctly.

Advice! The main thing is to make sure that the mixture is not damp and lumpy - in any case, it must first be sifted through a sieve. At the same time, it is also enriched with oxygen, which means that the plasticity of the solution will be higher.

• It must be mixed in a galvanized, enameled or plastic container, always clean, using an electric mixer. After thoroughly mixing the dry mixture with water, the solution should be allowed to rest for a few minutes, after which you can begin to work.

The volume of the batch should be such that it can be worked out before setting begins. This is especially true for gypsum putties, since after a maximum of an hour they are already setting - and this is twice as fast as cement-based mixtures. If this process has already gone, then it makes no sense to revive the solution by adding water to it - it is simply useless.

Working tools

And of course, for the work you will need a certain list of tools, the set of which depends on the type of plastering, as well as the skills available to the master (see Tools for plastering walls: what you will need for the job).

Appearance and name of the instrument	His purpose
	This tool is used to move a portion of the solution from the container to the wall. With its help, you can also spread and level the mortar during simple plastering.
	The trowel is a multifunctional tool: The solution is usually stirred with a spatula, apply plaster to the surface of the falcon, throw the mixture from the falcon onto the wall.
	Using a ladle, you can throw the mortar onto the wall without a falcon or trowel.
	Plaster trowels and trowels are used directly to smooth out uneven surfaces and grout the surface of the screed. Using a trowel, smooth out the mortar after several throws with a ladle - it is light and smooth, and the plaster does not stick to it. The beveled end and elongated shape make the tool convenient for cutting corners and narrow sections of the wall. The final leveling is done using floats. They may have different work surface, but there are also options with replaceable attachments - this is exactly the grater you see in the photo.
	Steel and rubber trowels are used to smooth the covering layer. Most often, this tool is used when working with decorative plasters, since it allows you to make the thinnest layer.
	The rule represents a long rigid rail with a trapezoidal cross-section. Used for installing beacons and leveling freshly applied plaster. In the first case, you need a tool 2.5 m long, and preferably with a level. For leveling, it is more convenient to use the shorter one and a half meter rule. Without this tool, it is impossible to properly plaster slopes and internal corners.
	Malka is used to level the soil layer when plastering along beacons, and also helps to correctly determine the outer angle. It is used for plastering window and door slopes.
	Spatulas, depending on the configuration, have various purposes. A narrow tool is very convenient for sealing cracks and joints. A wide spatula is used for applying and distributing putty when making a covering layer. A tool with a rubber cloth is simply irreplaceable when plastering shaped and spherical surfaces.

Theory is the best assistant in practice

The technology for plastering brick walls involves dividing work according to quality. Depending on the purpose of the building or room, plaster on the walls can be simple, improved and high quality.

• Simple plaster is intended for temporary and auxiliary buildings, utility rooms, basements, and no longer has a decorative, but a protective function. The total thickness of the screed usually does not exceed 1.2 cm. It consists of two layers: spray and primer, and is most often done using a falcon, without grouting or smoothing.

• As for the improved plaster, it already has at least three layers: spray, primer and covering layer - the thickness of the screed is 1.5 cm. It is carried out as a rule, and the covering layer is smoothed with a trowel. This type of plastering is intended for finishing public and industrial buildings.
• More stringent requirements are imposed on the finishing of administrative, residential and entertainment buildings and institutions. Therefore, the plaster should be more High Quality. This is multi-layer plastering along the beacons, allowing you to achieve ideal evenness of the walls. If there is such a need, the thickness of the screed with high-quality plastering can reach 5 cm.

Note! In cases where a screed thickness of more than 2 cm has to be used to level the surface, a plaster mesh must be installed on the walls.

Depending on the thickness of the mantle, beacons made of mortar are installed on the walls, wooden slats or special aluminum profile. Their position is leveled on the plane using a plumb line and level. During the plastering process, they are guided by the beacons, moving a rule or small block between them.

Preparing masonry for plastering

The question of how to properly plaster a brick wall begins with its preparation. Of course, walls that have just been built from new, high-quality bricks are not difficult to prepare.

But when work is carried out in an old building, where it is necessary to remove old paint coatings and clean the walls from screeds that have long lost adhesion, the complexity of this process often exceeds the complexity of applying a new screed.

So:

• When carrying out major repairs in old buildings, many stains do not have to be washed off. This includes mold, rust, efflorescence, fat deposits, dust and soot. The composition used for washing also depends on the type of contaminants. You can make such products yourself, or use factory-made compounds. If necessary, information on each of them can be easily found on the Internet.

• The preparatory part of the work begins with a visual inspection of the walls. If there are no visible stains on them, examine the quality of the masonry - if the masonry is old, it may have loose bricks, or chips and cracks. The brick may become loose due to mortar spilling out of the joints. In this case, the masonry element is removed, cleaned, and then replanted with fresh mortar.
• Chips and cracks are repaired before continuous plastering begins. The brickwork must be weighed: a plumb line is fixed in the upper part of the wall, and when viewed from the side, all the flaws will be immediately visible. Where there are recesses, put a mark with chalk, for example: -8 mm. If there is a bump on the surface, the mark is made with a plus sign.

• The mortar deposits on the surface of the brick and in the joints of the masonry must be removed. Sampling mortar from the joints helps avoid making notches on the brick wall. After cleaning, sweep the surface with a brush or compressor, and then begin to prime it. So that readers do not get confused about the term “soil”, we will give a short explanation.

Note*. Adhesive primer is an impregnating layer between the base surface and the screed applied to it. It removes dust from the surface and, by creating a film on it, prevents the absorption of moisture from the mortar into the brick. Impregnation of the base helps to significantly enhance its adhesion to the finishing layer. One of the layers of plaster coating is also called primer: it is the second in a row, and is applied after spraying.

Priming the surface of the brickwork is carried out over the entire area and is the final stage of the preparatory work.

Conclusion

Since the solutions, the quality of the coating, and the conditions for its application are different, the technologies for performing the work also have their differences. If you don’t have the necessary skills, the easiest way is to type in the search bar the query “how to plaster a brick wall video” and carefully watch how professionals work, what they do and with what tools. We can only give general recommendations.

• The temperature and humidity in the rooms are always approximately the same, but when plastering the facade you have to be careful. Both frost and summer heat have an equally bad effect on freshly applied plaster, so the most preferable time to carry out work is spring and autumn.

• If you do not want the plaster to crack, you should not start finishing immediately after finishing the construction of the walls, since the masonry must gain full strength. In addition, all wet finishing processes in the house must first be completed, and then you can start plastering the facade.

During the work process, constant quality control is required. To do this, a rule with a level is applied to the surface in different directions.

This is done before the screed has hardened, and if necessary, it is easy to correct the defects. It is impossible to force-dry the screed, therefore, before proceeding with further work, you need to patiently wait for the layer to dry naturally.

Cladding of brickwork is an integral stage of the construction process. When repairing already plastered walls, even in the absence of visible defects old layer it is recommended to remove it. Over time, it will begin to collapse and all efforts to decorate the room will be reduced to zero. We will consider in detail which plaster is better to treat a brick wall, how to properly prepare the solution and carry out the whole process with your own hands.

Types of plaster

The main task of using plaster for brick walls is to level the surface. In addition, it successfully performs several more functions:

• creates a protective barrier when moisture gets on a brick wall;
• increases the heat and sound insulation properties of the surface;
• serves decorative finishing brick wall.

Depending on the purpose, manufacturers offer several types of plaster, including:

• Regular. It is used for basic interior decoration of a room, followed by painting or wallpapering.
• Special plaster compositions are better in structure due to the additional heat and sound insulation properties imparted to the wall; the moisture resistance of the surface also improves.
• Decorative plaster is often used for exterior decoration. After its application, a brick wall can acquire a colored, textured or relief surface.

In order to properly plaster a brick wall with your own hands, you need to correctly select a solution that consists of a binder and sand. The function of the binding component is most often performed by cement; if necessary, gypsum, lime or clay can be used. The composition of the plaster is selected depending on further conditions operation of brickwork, whether it is an internal partition or outer wall, stove in a bathhouse or other purpose.

Tools for work

Organizing the repair process with your own hands requires having all the necessary tools and materials. To work with plaster you will need:

A plaster spatula designed for dosing, mixing components and leveling the applied mortar.

• 1 liter bucket.
• Plaster trowel, trowel and float.
• Rule for leveling the mortar using beacons with your own hands.
• Scoop, falcon, plaster trowel and corner leveler.
• Construction level, plumb line, scraper.

Preparatory stage

Sometimes, in order to shorten the period of repair work, preparing the surface for plastering with your own hands is carried out in an accelerated manner. The idea that preliminary steps only involve removing dirt and fasteners is erroneous. The sequence of actions before starting plastering the walls is as follows:

Remove the old layer, if any, remove protruding reinforcement, and clean the surface of the walls from dust.

• Visual inspection. All gaps between adjacent walls and ceiling must be removed. Any crack not only reduces the thermal insulation of the room, but also contributes to the formation of condensation. Penetration of insects into such recesses is also possible.
• Before you start priming, it is better to treat the brick wall with an antiseptic. The base of the wall is made of various bricks, which differ in porosity, so preliminary sanitation is necessary to prevent the appearance of mold.
• The walls must be primed before plastering with your own hands. Firstly, this prevents moisture from being “pulled out” from the solution, and secondly, it increases the adhesion of the plaster to the brick. If you need to prime a wall made of porous bricks, it is better to use a composition mineral based, which is characterized deep penetration. If necessary, it is applied with a second layer.
• If the surface of the brick wall is uneven, it is better to make reinforcement before plastering. The mesh is fixed on metal hooks, which are “recessed” into the seams between brickwork.

Advice ! The reinforcing mesh material must be resistant to moisture. It is optimal to choose a product made of plastic. The metal product will cause rust stains to appear in the future.

For high-quality adhesion of the plaster layer to the wall, it is better to deepen the seams between the brickwork.

Preparation of the solution

For plastering brick walls with your own hands, two types of mortar are mainly used: cement or gypsum, which have certain differences. The gypsum composition sets faster, so it needs to be prepared in small portions. Cement-based mortar can be applied in large volumes. Complete drying of gypsum-based plaster occurs within 5-6 days. When working with a cement composition, the process lasts 4 weeks.

There are two ways to plaster brick walls with your own hands: with and without beacons. Regardless of the chosen method, the process of preparing mortar for plaster is no different. The same components for the composition are taken in different ratios, depending on the stage of the work - whether it will be the starting or finishing finishing. So, preparing a solution for plastering walls with your own hands includes the following steps:

The introduction of additional components will help to increase the plasticity and adhesion of the plaster solution; their roles are:

• PVA dispersion;
• plasticizer;
• latex.

Over the next hour and a half, the composition for plastering brick walls must be used, otherwise it will lose its properties. If the solution thickens, a small amount of water can be added. After the allotted time, the mass will begin to crumble. You can see what consistency the solution should be in the following video:

Technological process

Finishing of brick walls with plaster is carried out in several stages. Initially liquid solution spraying is carried out brick surface. The thickness of the bottom layer, which is applied by casting, does not exceed 5 mm. Before spraying begins, the wall needs to be wetted, otherwise, upon contact with a dry base, moisture from the mixture will quickly be absorbed, as a result of which the plaster will lose its strength. By penetrating into the pores and unevenness of the brick wall, the first layer of plaster promotes good adhesion.

At the second stage, the surface must be primed. Unlike the previous procedure with a liquid solution, priming the walls requires a composition with a thicker consistency. This layer is the main one in the entire process of plastering a brick surface. In addition to creating thickness, it additionally levels the wall. Before you start priming, the wall surface also needs to be moistened. To work, you will need a trowel or a trowel. The cement composition should be on the edge of the tool; it should be primed by rubbing the solution with movements from bottom to top.

Advice ! The walls are primed in stages, after processing 1-2 m2 they proceed to leveling the composition.

The leveling procedure is carried out using a trowel or float. The direction of movement does not matter, the main thing is to get a smooth surface of the brick wall. When the priming is finished, they move on to the final stage of plastering the brick surface, the so-called covering. The finishing coating layer is 2 mm. According to tradition, before applying plaster, the wall is wetted with a spray bottle or a paint brush. After a short process of moisture absorption, they proceed to the distribution of the finishing coating.