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Floor boards: wood species, sizes and quality classes. Floor board - any size, simple installation Wooden floor board thickness

Construction market offers a huge variety of construction and finishing materials. And floor coverings are no exception - you can choose to suit every taste and budget. However, one of the most popular is flooring boards. After all, natural materials are always in price, and wood has excellent visual characteristics, strength and durability. Although it is not without its drawbacks, it is therefore important to choose this material correctly.

Floor board

Floorboards are main element for laying wooden floors. Unlike parquet boards, which are glued together from separate layers, floor boards are made from solid wood and have all the advantages of wood, since no artificial materials are used in production.

Batten

Because this is the material for finishing, the following requirements are imposed on it:

• the wood must be well processed, the surface free of knots and flaws;
• the wood must be kiln dried - if you put damp boards on the floor, they will warp and become unusable.

To connect the elements, a tongue-and-groove design is used. A protrusion is made on one side of the wooden plank, and a groove is made on the other. During installation, the material fits tightly and there are no gaps left. This type of lock is called tongue-and-groove; in addition to ease of installation, it prevents cracks from forming when the planks dry out. Stands out separately edged board, it comes without locks.

The floor board is made from different breeds wood, the most popular:

• elm;
• ash;
• maple;
• pine;
• larch.

Beech and oak floorboards are dense and heavy, and therefore place increased demands on fastening and preparation of the base. These are one of the most expensive breeds. Larch and pine are cheaper, but also softer, so they have a shorter service life. The floors are also made of alder and walnut.

Oak slats

Pros and cons of wooden flooring boards

By the floor of natural wood Both advantages and disadvantages are noted. And the main advantage is 100% natural origin.

• environmental cleanliness;
• great appearance;
• variety of wood textures;
• durability and strength;
• good additional noise and heat insulation;
• the material can be restored.

• wood is afraid of moisture;
• the material is classified as fire hazardous;
• installation of floors is labor-intensive;
• Mold and mildew may appear on the wood.

Boards for making floors from the manufacturer are sold unfinished, so the material requires decorative processing. On the other hand, this can also be called a virtue. After all, as the varnish coating wears off and defects appear on the wood, the surface can be sanded and repainted, resulting in, in fact, new floors.

Important! Wood requires mandatory treatment with moisture-protective agents.

Types of boards

This material is divided into several varieties. To understand which board is suitable for the floor, you need to understand them.

• terraced;
• parquet;
• sexual

Each of these types has its own differences and is intended for use in a specific area of ​​construction.

Terrace board

Parquet board

This is a glued lamella, which is made of three layers of wood:

• bottom - acts as a substrate, made from coniferous species;
• medium - the thickest, provides strength to the material. Made from either fiberboard high density, or from coniferous wood;
• the top layer is veneer or a solid sheet of valuable wood. Can be made from oak, beech, ash, alder or other types of wood.

The final layer is varnish coating. It is applied in several layers, and a special moisture-proof impregnation is required.

The thickness of the parquet board ranges from 7 to 25 mm. The thinnest material is rarely used, since it quickly fails, and the small thickness of the top layer of veneer does not allow sanding and restoration of the coating.

The most popular material is 15-20 mm thick - for private premises it has the best price-quality ratio. A parquet board 25 mm thick is used for public spaces where increased demands are placed on the strength of the material.

Parquet

Terrace board

This is the same sex, only intended for use on outdoors and in places with high humidity. Its main difference from other types is its wavy front surface. This makes it not so slippery, which is why this material is often used for decking near swimming pools.

However, due to the ribbed front part, this coating is quite difficult to process, so when purchasing, you should pay attention to the quality of the wood. Make sure that the slats are equipped ventilation ducts, which are located along the bottom. The thickness of the decking board for the floor can be very different, but the most common is 35 mm.

Sexual

This type of material is made of solid natural wood with a smooth front surface. Floorboards, as already mentioned, are divided into types:

• grooved - equipped with special locks that facilitate installation;
• edged - ordinary planed wood.

For finishing, it is better to choose tongue-and-groove material. It is easier to work with and is not as prone to drying out. However, edged boards are cheaper, and they are suitable in those rooms where there are no increased requirements for the tightness of the boards. It is used in baths - such a coating will ensure free passage of water between the slats. Edged material is used to construct a subfloor.

Floorboards come in different sizes, the most popular thickness being 25 mm. When choosing, you should pay attention to the quality of the surface, the degree of humidity and the rock. The service life of the coating directly depends on this.

Trimming strips

Board sizes

This material is available in different sizes. The choice is made based on the following criteria:

• room dimensions - for large room A wide floorboard will do; its massiveness will come in handy;
• area of ​​use - residential or utility room;
• planned loads.

When choosing, the purpose of using the material also plays a role. For rough coverings, a 20 mm floorboard is suitable. Moreover, low quality material is used for these purposes.

Thickness

This is one of the main parameters of the material. The thickness is selected based on the expected loads and the design of the lag. The larger their step, the thicker the board is.

When laying on beams:

• at a step of 60 cm, a 35 mm floorboard is laid;
• with a step of 30 cm, a thickness of 25 mm is needed;
• at a step of 100 cm – 50 mm.

Important! A thin edged floorboard is cheaper than a thick one, but you will have to lay logs underneath it more often.

However, the terms of use must also be taken into account here. If heavy loads are expected on the floor, then it is better to choose a thickness with a margin. Therefore, the most popular floorboards for residential premises are 45 and 35 mm. If a rough base is being made, the best option will use 25 mm material.

Board width

The width of the planks is selected based on the geometry and dimensions of the room. The most popular sizes are from 80 to 140 mm. However, there are others, they are just used less frequently.

The wider the material, the more difficult it is to install. Such boards are more demanding in preparing the base. On the other hand, installation is faster.

However, planks that are too wide are susceptible to deformation due to fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Therefore, it is recommended to choose a material with a width of 100-120 mm. The length is also varied - from 3 to 6 meters. When choosing, again, the dimensions of the room and the ability to reduce waste are taken into account.

Wide slats floor

Selecting boards

When deciding which board is best to use for the floor, you must first determine the requirements for the coating and its operating conditions. A financial question also arises - not everyone wants to spend money on an oak or beech floor.

To make the right choice, consider the following rules:

• For open spaces (verandas or gazebos) right choice– terrace lamella. And the best species are oak, ash and larch. They are resistant to temperature changes and high humidity, therefore suitable for the street. A special corrugated surface prevents water from accumulating on the floor surface.
• if the material is selected for use in residential premises, it is better to take tongue and groove boards. Any breed is suitable, but preference should be given to valuable species. Oak or alder floors look rich, are durable and strong. On the other hand, softwoods are cheaper and the variety finishing materials allows you to make high-quality decorative finishing;
• If a rough wooden floor is being made, then the most cheap material – unedged board coniferous species;
• When choosing a material for a bathhouse, you should not use pine and other conifers. At high temperatures, such lamellas release resin, and they are also susceptible to moisture. That's why optimal choice- this is larch.

So, what kind of boards are needed for building a floor determine the conditions of use.

tongue and groove lamellas

What to look for when buying

When buying wood, there is a risk of running into low-quality material. Therefore, you need to know how to choose the right floorboard, especially since there are not so many criteria for selection.

What to look for when purchasing:

• Humidity within 15-20%. If a dry floorboard is laid on the floor, it will last a long time and will not deform. If you install the material with a natural level of humidity, after some time they will dry out and warp;
• The tongue and groove floorboard must have the correct geometry - the planks are the same length and width. Another point is the plane of the panels; if they are misaligned, this will cause problems during installation;
• The general appearance must correspond to the class of the material;
• If you buy a tongue and groove board, make sure that the lock is easy to assemble and its parts fit tightly together.

These simple rules, will help determine the quality of the product. After all, this requires only a thorough visual inspection.

Important! Any wood is afraid of moisture, so when arranging the floors you will have to take care of waterproofing and make a ventilated subfloor.

Wood plank classes

Another one important characteristic material - these are classes of boards or their grade. There are four varieties in total:

• The highest grade or extra class is the material itself High Quality. The 36 mm premium quality floorboard has no knots and has a uniform color and pattern. These strips are suitable for finishing colorless varnishes, since they have no visible defects;
• The first grade is somewhat worse than the highest. The 28 mm floorboard of this class has small knots. In this case, color unevenness is allowed. This material is also used for finishing coatings, since wood has few defects;
• Second grade - here knots are present in large quantities. Cracks and resin inclusions are allowed. It makes sense to use such wood for painting or for covering;
• Third grade - it is used only for rough work, the abundance of defects simply does not allow the use of such wood for finishing.

For every area construction work the appropriate type of material is selected.

Second grade wood

Wood type

Another characteristic by which to choose flooring material is a breed. After all, each has its own characteristics and the best area of ​​application.

The most popular breeds:

• Oak is one of the most durable species. Oak board 44 mm in strength exceeds coniferous board sixty. It is durable, strong and moisture resistant. Wood has 44 mm beautiful colour and drawing. Oak refers to valuable species, so purchasing this material will be expensive. However, the service life compensates for this cost;
• Coniferous species are the most common. They are characterized by low cost at good quality. Used at all stages of construction - from roughing to finishing;
• Alder is a soft species, but its interesting pattern and richness in natural antiseptics make alder popular for finishing baths, dining rooms and children's rooms.

In addition to these, other species are used: linden, aspen, beech, ash. Therefore, there is plenty to choose from. When purchasing, it is important to focus on the area of ​​application of the material; for example, it is better not to make alder floors outdoors.

Choosing a floorboard is a process that should be taken seriously. Rough coating or fine when purchasing, you should take into account a number of required characteristics: quality, type of wood and dimensions of the board. The service life of the floor depends on how well the material is selected. After all, it bears the main mechanical load.

There are several parameters by which to choose wood covering. The dimensions of the floorboard are not the last thing to choose. This characteristic depends on the following factors:

• place of use (residential premises, outbuildings, street, verandas);
• what kind of coating it is (rough or finishing);
• load on the planned floor layer.

The length is selected based on the parameters of the premises so that there is a minimum number of joints and waste. Fortunately, the building materials market allows this to be done. Existing size range– 2, 3, 4, 6 m.

The choice of floorboard thickness depends on the intensity of use and the distance between the joists. The higher it is, the thicker the board will be required. For example, if the distance is up to 700 mm, then it is better to choose a board thickness of 35–40 mm, above this size – 40–50 mm.

The width of the board is selected taking into account design ideas. Large canvases are more susceptible to shrinkage, which will further affect the quality flooring. Types of sizes from 85 mm to 140 mm.

The most popular board size: length – 2–3 m, width – 105 mm, thickness – 20-35 mm.

Which board is best for the floor?

Building and renovating a home is not a cheap project. That's why " Which board is best to use for the floor?» – actual question. Correct selection material will significantly save money without losing the quality of the floor:

1. For roughing, slabs and unedged blades are used. Quality, low price. An edged board should be used for the subfloor if it is planned to have a finishing coating that requires a flat base (laminate, parquet, linoleum). Coniferous rough board is the most popular type. It has sufficient strength at a low price.
2. Deciduous tree species such as linden and aspen are used for the bath. These coatings are resistant to high temperatures and high humidity, will not release resin when heated. Making a floor in a bathhouse from untreated material is a big mistake (this is fraught with splinters during operation). The presence of resin will cause burns.
3. For homes and apartments, the finishing flooring is made from different types of wood. The choice depends on financial capabilities and stylistic decisions. Coniferous fabrics are often used. But there is also a place for expensive tree species: larch, oak, cedar. It all depends on the planned design, load, and intensity of walking. The board used is processed. Best option– . This material forms a smooth, durable coating. By inside ventilation grooves must be made. This allows the flooring to “breathe” regardless of the base.
4. Larch and oak are used on the open veranda. These materials have high strength data and are also not susceptible to rotting or fungus formation. For open verandas The board goes on the floor, corrugated. This coating does not allow moisture to accumulate; it flows down the grooves. This terrace floor has a pleasant roughness. In winter, the corrugated larch surface will prevent you from slipping.

Which board is best to use for the floor depends on each specific case. But correctly selected material for one or another environment, microclimate, type of room will help save money on further work for rework. You should pay attention to the level of drying of the planks. This will prevent gaps from forming after shrinkage.

Video: Choosing a floorboard

Having decided to use a natural material for the finishing coating, you should study its properties. This will help you make the right choice in favor of a certain type of wood. Which will best suit your needs specifications. The following species are used for wooden floors.

Conifers (pine, spruce, fir). Optimal ratio price quality. The canvases contain natural resins, which are natural antiseptics. This means the floor will be less susceptible to rotting and fungus. Another important property – good vapor permeability. It allows coniferous floors to maintain normal moisture levels in the room. The floor made of pine and spruce boards releases ethereal odors into the microclimate of the room, which have a beneficial effect on health. Another representative of the coniferous species began to appear on the building materials market - fir. This material contains a smaller amount of resins, which means it will require additional processing antiseptic means of protection.

Oak. The nobility, durability, and unique texture of this breed are difficult to dispute. But the price for such material is quite high. If we consider the service life of cheaper species and oak, then the cost becomes quite affordable. To the positive characteristics you can add resistance to moisture. Oak becomes even stronger under the influence of water. It is not susceptible to rotting, the formation of fungus, mold, has a wide range of textures and low thermal conductivity. Oak also has good sound insulation.

Siberian larch. According to the main characteristics, this material is close to oak.

Has the same properties:

• durability;
• not susceptible to rotting, mold, mildew;
• maintains an optimal microclimate, releases antiseptic essential elements;
• good thermal conductivity, sound insulation properties, resists direct exposure to moisture;
• high strength data.

Along with the listed advantages, this material has 12 different shades.

Alder, aspen. These types of wood do not have particular strength or durability. But when heated, tannins are released into the indoor microclimate, which have a positive effect on health. This natural floorboard is used for finishing baths and saunas. Alder has found its place in the decoration of children's bedrooms. Where there is no intensive walking, but family members stay for a long time.

Cedar, linden. The first option is very expensive. But this cost is due healing properties, unique texture, strength, resistance to moisture. Cedar contains essential oils, which have a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the home and health. If the budget allows, then this flooring will greatly delight the family. for a long time. Linden is considered available material. Has healing properties, soft texture, low thermal conductivity, has a flavoring effect. Disadvantage: susceptible to rot and fungus formation. Requires antiseptic impregnation.

What boards are needed is determined by the budget and technical specifications. You can use exotic materials, but how relevant is this because of the price?

There are four types of wood:

1. Extra class;

Extra class is mainly used for finishing coatings. The canvases have no visible defects, practically no knots, and have a uniform shade.

Class A, B have found their application as finishing coatings. The presence of knots is determined, resin pockets, cracks may be present, but not through.

Class C is usually used as a roughing board. The canvases have visible defects that cannot be corrected mechanically.

Laying floorboards on joists

This process can be broken down into several stages:

1. Installation of logs;
2. , insulation of the underground space;
3. Installation of the finishing coating.

Wooden coverings will require a device ventilation holes(outlet). At the first stage, it is important to determine the distance between the lags. It is better if it is 600 mm. The logs are laid across the length of the boards. It will be easier to lay the floor if the timber is laid out level.

The second stage allows you to organize additional thermal insulation and protection from moisture.

The third stage is the most important. Laying the floor begins with a gap of 10 mm from the walls. Natural floorboards have high plasticity and mobility. The first board is laid tongue-and-groove against the wall and secured with self-tapping screws with a flat head with a recess. The second panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one and fixed. If you have to lay boards on joists in two rows along the length of the canvas, then it is recommended to do an offset. This technology of work will give the finishing additional strength. After installation, a plinth is installed that will cover the technical holes between the boards and the wall.

Video: The process of laying floorboards with your own hands

Conclusion

The modern building materials market makes it possible to purchase any wooden floor covering. But choose the right species, type, size of panels, class of wood and make high-quality installation not everyone can do it. And the service life and quality of the floor depend on this. If you don’t have confidence in your abilities, it’s better to hire professionals to do the flooring.

Video: Tips for laying floorboards

The choice of materials for floor construction and finishing is quite wide. But only a plank floor combines both load-bearing and decorative qualities. The only exception is engineered flooring, which is a type of parquet. Not only the aesthetics of the future coating, but also its service life depends on how correctly the boards were selected, how they were prepared for laying, and on compliance with the flooring technology.

Optimal parameters for a quality board

It is necessary to select floor boards based on several parameters. First of all, this is the design of the board itself. There are tongue and groove regular boards. Distinctive feature the first are locking connections at the ends. That is, in the right end you will see a groove, and in the left a tenon of the same size. When laying boards, the tenon is inserted into the groove, which guarantees reliable connection and prevents cracks.

Regular or technical floor boards have straight ends and are laid end-to-end. Of course, the cost of tongue and groove boards is slightly higher. But a good wooden floor can last you a lifetime if used. So is it worth saving? You've probably seen a still strong wooden floor, the appearance of which is far from perfect: the center of the board sagged, the edges rose, and cracks appeared between the boards. This can only happen with an ungrooved board. The conclusion is that such material can only be used as a subfloor.

Important! The only exception to this rule is oak floorboards. Due to the hardness of the wood, such boards do not “change” over time, and you can safely use non-grooved material.

The type of wood is the basis

Now we have come close to choosing the type of wood for your floor. Let's look at the most common ones:

• Oak– it is certainly expensive, but very beautiful and practical. Having spent money on such a board, you can be sure that you will not have to change the floor, and if proper care it will also serve your grandchildren. So, when deciding what boards you need for the floor in your home, think about whether you want to replace them after a couple of decades or are willing to pay once for quality.
• Siberian larch- also quite expensive wood. On average, its cost exceeds the price of pine by 2-3 times. However, due to its special hardness and high resin content, larch flooring practically does not rot or wear out. It's great for wet areas or for houses where the owners do not live all year round.
• Alder and aspen– are not particularly durable, but have a number of other advantages. First of all, the enzymes secreted by these wood species have an excellent effect on human health, especially on children's bodies. So most often these breeds are produced in children's rooms and bedrooms, where the load on the coating is not great, and the healing abilities can manifest themselves most fully.
• The most common softwood flooring boards are: fir, spruce, pine. For residential premises where it is not customary to wear street shoes, this flooring is quite suitable. We can say that this is the most a budget option. Having chosen pine lumber, give preference to tongue and groove boards. Only in this case can you count on the fact that in a few years your floor will not go in waves.

Wood moisture content

The wood must be well dried. Otherwise, having made a floor from boards with your own hands, after just a couple of weeks you may be surprised to find that some of its fragments have been twisted with a “screw”, so much so that the screws have been torn out of the floor. Naturally, such a floor will have to be redone, which means additional time, effort and money. Optimal humidity floorboard - 8-10%, maximum - 12%.

Board thickness

The thickness of the floorboard also depends on the type of wood chosen. Yes, you can use Oak planks thickness from 20 mm. For pine, the ideal thickness is 40 mm. The tongue and groove board is produced according to slightly different standards. Its thickness ranges from 28 to 36 mm. When choosing, you need to proceed from how large the load on the floor is planned: the greater the load, the thicker the board is needed.

Using a tongue and groove board will allow you to be sure that the floor will not “lead” in a few years

Board width

Few people know that the durability of a wooden floor largely depends on the width of the board. This is especially true for non-grooved material. The width, in turn, is selected depending on the moisture content of the wood: the higher the humidity, the narrower the board needs to be taken. Optimal width is considered 100mm, but if you are sure that the wood is properly dried, you can use a board 180-200 mm wide.

Acclimatization stage

Before making a floor from planks, you need to let the material get used to the temperature and humidity of the room. To do this, just fold it in the room and leave it for several days.

Important! In order to save money, sometimes floors are installed from boards with high humidity - up to 20%. In this case, it is recommended to lay them immediately after delivery, without acclimatization. However, this option is very risky. It is difficult to predict how the board will behave when drying.

What should the foundation be?

The base for a plank floor can be almost anything. The main thing is that it is strong enough to withstand the additional load. It can be:

• concrete floors;
• logs;
• interfloor floor beams;
• old wooden floor;
• plywood base on screed.

Methods for attaching boards to the base

The method of fastening the boards depends on their type. So, a non-grooved board is attached to the joists with nails or screws at an angle of 90 degrees to the base.

Fastening the tongue-and-groove board with screws through a tenon allows you to leave the floor surface absolutely smooth

The tongue and groove board can be fastened in the same way, or it can be laid, hiding the screws. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

• We attach the first board through the front surface at a distance of 7-10 mm from the wall with a groove towards it.
• In the next board, from the tenon side, we drill a hole at an angle of 45-50 degrees.
• We install the second board so that the tenon and groove coincide, leaving no gap between the boards. To do this, you can gently hit the end of the board several times with a hammer through a wooden block.
• When the board is in place, screw it with self-tapping screws through the prepared hole.
• We also attach the last board through the front surface.

Important! If the board width is more than 140 mm, it is advisable to additionally fasten it in the middle, recessing the head of the screw into the array and closing the hole with a dowel.

That's all. The floor is ready. All that remains is to apply protective covering and you can use a beautiful, durable and environmentally friendly floor for many years.

Wood floors are coming back into fashion. This is due to a change in guidelines in the decoration of residential premises towards environmental friendliness and safety. And wood, as we know, fully satisfies these requirements. At the same time, the plank floor has an attractive appearance. Ah, thanks wide choice lumber in color, pattern and texture, this coating matches the design of almost any interior. What characteristics should be taken into account when choosing a floor board in order to get a beautiful and durable floor that will last for several decades - read below.

The floorboard can be used in both residential and non-residential premises. The most popular and suitable material for finishing floors living rooms in a private house - oak wood. Less commonly used are ash, alder, and aspen. These breeds are different high performance wear resistance, durability, look expensive and attractive (especially if the coating is treated with varnish and not paint).

For finishing the floor, it is better to choose tongue-and-groove boards that have good cohesion: a non-groove wooden board is susceptible to drying out, which can cause significant gaps to form in the floor.

Hard wood species are distinguished by a fairly high price. More affordable option there will be boards and pine and larch trees. Pine is pleasant to the touch and has a beautiful milky tint. This material is quite soft, so it is best to choose it for finishing floors in bedrooms. Larch is suitable for finishing other rooms. It is resistant to mechanical stress and has high strength. It is highly undesirable to use poplar and linden boards for flooring.

When choosing boards for finishing the floor, you should take into account many other factors, which include the operating conditions of the floor and the type of finish.

So, in order for the floor to last a long time, look stylish and attractive, you must follow these recommendations:

1. The finishing should be done with a tongue and groove board: due to the treated side surfaces, it is easier to install such a board.
2. For finishing indoors, choose Eurofloor or dry boards, the humidity of which is no more than 10%.
3. For laying subfloors, grade B wood is good, with a moisture content of no more than 15%.
4. Before laying the boards, you should adapt the lumber to the microclimate (keep it in the room for two weeks). Damp boards, after laying, can change their dimensions, which will lead to the formation of cracks and crevices in the coating.
5. Before purchasing lumber, you need to calculate the quantity and boards for a specific size (you can do this yourself using an online calculator).
6. It is recommended to lay the boards along the line of light: this way the longitudinal ties will not be noticeable.
7. To avoid shadows between the boards (which will visually reduce the space and disrupt the geometry of the floor), installation should begin from the sources natural lighting or diagonally (from one corner to another).

In addition, the boards for installation must be dry, free from knots, cracks and other defects that can affect not only the appearance of the floor, but also its performance characteristics.

Technical board: main advantages

The two-layer technical board for floor finishing is highly wear-resistant and durable. Such performance indicators are achieved due to the fact that the proverb consists of two layers: an upper wood layer and a lower one, represented by plywood. The wood layer is most often made from durable hardwood (oak, ash, walnut).

In addition, the main advantages of the technical board include:

1. This coating does not require maintaining special temperature conditions and a certain level of humidity.
2. Laminated, two-layer timber is less susceptible to deformation than completely natural wood.
3. A technical board floor can be repeatedly sanded, polished and varnished.
4. Laying technical boards does not require the organization of plywood flooring or underlay.
5. More high level sound insulation than when using a regular board.

Caring for engineered (technical) boards is quite simple: most models have a smooth coating without pores (which easily get clogged with dirt and dust). The only disadvantages of the coating include its high cost compared to conventional wooden board. But repairs to such a floor will not be needed soon.

Floor board size

The main characteristics of the floorboard that should be taken into account when choosing a material include the length and width of the floorboard. For today, in construction stores You can find lumber with widths from 800 mm to 150 mm and lengths from 3 to 6 meters.

In domestic construction, it is most popular to purchase boards with a width of 150 mm: they look attractive in any interior and have high performance indicators.

The choice of lumber width depends on the design of the room. Yes, for small rooms You should not choose floor elements that are too wide. Good for little ones premises will suit board with a width of 800 mm. Wide lumber in spacious rooms will emphasize the advantageous size of the room.

It should be taken into account that the fewer longitudinal joints the board has, the easier it is to install the plank floor and maintain the intended geometry.

The length of the lumber must meet two requirements: the wooden strips must have a minimum number of joints during installation, and the installation itself must be as waste-free as possible. You can reduce the waste of cutting lumber by choosing a Euro board, which comes with a length of 2 meters.

Floorboard thickness

The quality and durability of the coating depends on the thickness of the board. Thus, thick boards will be less susceptible to moisture and temperature, will last longer without losing their attractive appearance and characteristics. Don’t forget about the ratio of the thickness to the width of the board: too wide, too thin a board will be subject to deformation.

The choice of wood for finishing the floor thickness is determined by the loads that the coating will experience.

What thickness should I choose for finishing the floor? Today, lumber sellers offer boards with a thickness of 2 to 7 cm. For bedrooms, it is better to use a board with a thickness of 3.5-4 cm. For rooms with high traffic (for example, corridors, hallways, living rooms), lumber with a greater thickness is needed .

The minimum thickness of the floorboard in residential premises should not be less than 2.2 cm. Permissible deviations from the nominal dimensions of the elements are determined by state standard 8242-88.

When choosing board thickness, you should also take into account the distance between the base joists. If the distance between the elements is 0.6 m, then for a high-quality coating a thickness of about 3-3.5 cm will be sufficient. If the distance between the logs exceeds 0.6 m, then it is recommended to use boards with a width of 4-4.5 cm.

When choosing boards by thickness, you should take into account that the larger this indicator, the higher the cost of lumber.

Therefore, the choice of boards in terms of thickness should be appropriate. You should not buy thick materials for finishing dressing rooms, storerooms, etc. The thickness of the boards will not have any effect on the service life of the wooden floor in these rooms, and financial side This type of finish will hit your pocket.

How to install a floor board (video)

Plank flooring is a stylish, environmentally friendly and durable covering. But such a coating can only be if the lumber is selected taking into account the intensity of use, the purpose of the room and finishing. Today, choosing floorboards suitable for the interior of a room will not be difficult. The main thing is to select lumber taking into account the ratio of their width and thickness, the length and extent of the room. And then you will receive coverage that fully meets your expectations!

The boards can be used both as a finishing coating and as a base for other coatings and subfloors. Since this layer of the floor cake is covered by others on top, the board for it may be inferior in quality to the finished floor board. But it still has to meet a number of requirements.

Requirements for the board for the subfloor

Features of the subfloor

• Hidden from view, so cosmetic defects, the appearance of the board, selection do not matter
• It takes on part of the pressure that is applied to the finishing coating, but is affected indirectly. Therefore, it is important for boards mechanical strength, but not abrasion resistance, Suitable for soft wood
• Can be located above the ground to protect against biological damage boards must be treated with an antiseptic
• Should be fairly level to ensure simple and high-quality work, and this is possible when using even boards
• Should not have any gaps

The board for the subfloor should not be:

• Raw
• Affected by fungus (rot, mold) or wood-boring insects
• Twisted, uneven
• With long cracks

If there are several boards in the batch that have twisted due to improper drying technology, they can be separated into wedges, chips and used as pads to level the subfloor and seal cracks. But it is impossible to lay a floor, even a rough one, from such boards.

Selecting boards

For a subfloor, a board with the following characteristics is suitable:

• Grade B or C, with wood defects that worsen the appearance of the board
• Quality standard - it is not necessary to purchase a board that complies with GOST; one made according to specifications or other less stringent standards will do.
• Wood species - pine, spruce - the cheapest varieties with low abrasion resistance, but for the subfloor this does not matter. For damp and open rooms such as terraces, larch, which is more resistant to rot, is preferable
• Processing of edges - if finances allow, you can purchase a tongue-and-groove board; when laying it, a minimum of cracks will form. But you can use a regular edged, uncalibrated or even unedged board. If an unplaned board with an insufficiently flat surface is used, it must be scraped after laying.
• The optimal thickness is 25-35 mm, depending on the expected load on the floor. In gyms, on industrial facilities you need a board of greater thickness than in residential premises

If an unedged board is used for the subfloor, there is a possibility that the uncut edge (wane) is infected with fungus or insects and will become a source of infection. Also, such boards are difficult to join tightly. To solve these problems, the wane is trimmed, the side edges are made as smooth as possible, so as not to waste extra effort for sealing cracks.

Exists old technology double flooring wooden floors on the ground:

1. Logs are mounted on support columns
2. 30x50 bars are placed on the lower part of the logs on the sides
3. The subfloor is laid with support on the bars (selection), the boards do not need to be nailed
4. The selection is coated with clay or lime mortar
5. After the composition has dried, it is laid
6. A layer of dry sand, slag, expanded clay, and other bulk insulation at ¾ of the height of the log, covered with a layer of waterproofing
7. On top part lag in the standard way the finished floor is laid

With this technique of work, you can use unedged boards, slabs, and the cheapest lumber for selection.

Price

In various online lumber stores you can find the following prices for boards that are suitable for constructing a subfloor:

• Pilomaterialy.rf - edged boards of 2 grades from pine, spruce, 25 mm thick of different quality standards - 63-73 rubles. for a 6-meter board 10 cm wide (area 0.6 m²), 95-110 rubles. for 1 board 15 cm wide (area 0.9 m²)
• City-edged wood, grade 2, natural humidity, from coniferous species, thickness 25 mm - from 3300 rub./m³, from aspen, thickness 25-50 mm - 4300 rub./m³
• Arkhangelsk Forest - edged coniferous boards of 2 grades, 25 mm thick - 4800 RUR/m³, 40 mm thick - 5200 RUR. m³
• Gostles LLC - unedged board – 3500 rub. m³
  Mastma - edged board grade 2 TU with tolerance - 4850 rub./m³, larch floorboard, grade C, thickness 30 mm, 700 rub./m²
  Eurolining - dry planed board grade C, 20x140 mm, 179 RUR/m²
• Northern Forest - edged board 2nd grade - from 4350 rub./m³, tongue-and-groove floorboard class C, thickness 28 mm - 349 rub./m²
• Forest Product – 2nd grade softwood edged board, 25 mm – 3300 RUR. m³, 40-50 mm – 4800 RUR/m³
• MegaRoofing – unedged board, grade 2, thickness 25 mm – 3800-4100 RUR/m³, depending on the batch size

Video

Which board is not suitable even for a subfloor. External signs of fungal infection.

Bottom line

For the subfloor, you can use a board with big amount wood defects, but they should not affect it strength characteristics. Rotten, rotten wood affected by other diseases will not be suitable for these purposes.

Severely uneven, warped boards can be used as supports, but not for subflooring. It makes no sense to buy expensive wood with high wear resistance or aesthetic appeal for the subfloor,