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The floors in the house are made of floor slabs. Floors made of reinforced concrete floor slabs. Joists on concrete floor

Wooden floors on joists are one of the oldest methods of flooring and the only one used in the northern regions of our country. Modern materials They have only improved ancient technologies, due to which the scope of application has significantly expanded and performance indicators have improved. Before proceeding directly to consideration various options, you should familiarize yourself a little with the engineering requirements for calculations.

Logs are distinguished from beams by their smaller size and mobility. If beams cannot be moved after installation, and repairs are very long and labor-intensive, then logs are a mobile architectural element. They are much easier to install and, if necessary, repairs are carried out faster.

Before you start building a floor, you need to study the requirements of regulatory documents for the size of the joists and the distance between them, taking into account the thickness of the floorboards.

Table of lag sections at a pitch of 70 cm

Table of distance between joists depending on the thickness of the board

In order to learn how to independently make calculations based on tables, it will be useful to consider a simple example. Initial data: room length 10 m, take floorboard 30 mm thick.

Calculation method

According to the table, with such a thickness of the board, the distance between the logs is 50 cm; with a room length of 10 m, 20 logs will be needed. The distance between the logs and the walls cannot exceed 30 cm. This means that we will have to increase their number by one piece, the distance between the others will decrease to 45 centimeters.

Important note. During calculations, all roundings should be done only downwards, thus creating an additional margin of safety.

There is no need to calculate dimensions and distances accurate to the millimeter; no one takes such measurements. By the way, during construction the absolute majority architectural elements and structures are measured in centimeters, the greatest accuracy is half a centimeter. Millimeters are almost never used during measurements.

Floor subfloor options

These types of floors can be installed on a wooden or concrete base or on the ground. Each option has its own technological features, which must be kept in mind during work. As for the specific purpose of the premises, taking this parameter into account, the base of the floor and its operational characteristics are selected. The technology of the device itself remains almost unchanged. There are, of course, options for warm and cold floors, but these features also have a common construction algorithm.

Installation of a wooden floor on joists on wooden bases

Such floors can be made in both wooden and brick buildings and can have several varieties. The features of flooring need to be considered at the building design stage. Not only the purpose of each room and its size are taken into account, but also the climatic zone of residence, microclimate requirements and the financial capabilities of the developer. Below are step-by-step recommendations for constructing this type of flooring.

Depending on specific conditions, the algorithm can be slightly modified, but all main construction operations must be completed. The base can be moisture-resistant OSB boards or sheets of plywood. The design of the floor coverings provides for the possibility of laying insulation; the use of rolled and pressed glass wool or polystyrene foam is allowed. If there are insulation materials, then you should definitely install hydro- and vapor barriers.

Step 1. Take the dimensions of the room and calculate the number of joists, taking into account the above recommendations. Prepare materials and tools, make markings. Do the work slowly; mistakes made at this stage are extremely Negative consequences. Eliminating them will take a lot of time.

Step 2. Start installing the logs from the outer wall ones. If the room has subfloors, then the logs can be fixed directly to them. To make work easier, it is better to use metal squares with perforations; such elements significantly speed up work and increase the stability of the joists. Using the mark on the wall, taking into account the thickness of the floorboards, align one end of the joist and fix its position.

Practical advice. When installing the outer joists, do not fix them immediately; first, you should only tighten the screws. This will allow you to make final fine adjustments.

Do the same actions at the second end of the log, constantly monitor its level position. Once the lag lays down normally, you can secure the ends firmly and begin installation intermediate fastenings. The distance between them depends on the thickness of the boards that are used for the logs; it is approximately 70 centimeters.

Step 3. You need to stretch the ropes between the outermost joists; place all the remaining joists along this line. Constantly check with a level; installation accuracy should be ±1–2 mm. There is no point anymore, it takes a lot of extra time. A small difference in height will be removed during finishing of the front surface of the floorboards.

Step 4. If the floors are warm, then you need to lay thermal insulation between the joists; waterproofing and vapor barriers are used to prevent moisture from entering. The distances between the logs must be adjusted taking into account the length and width of the insulation. This can be either mineral wool or polystyrene foam, or bulk types of insulation. If all preparatory work completed, you can begin laying the floorboards.

There are options for installing joists on floor beams. These are so-called ventilated floors and are most often used for non-residential premises. There is no need to be particularly precise; size alignment is done using lags. The logs are attached to the beams with nails or self-tapping screws from the side. The algorithm of work is the same. First, the extreme ones are placed, a rope is pulled between them and all the others are fixed along it.

Ventilation is carried out through special vents in the foundations; the distance between the ground and the floor must be at least fifty centimeters. Otherwise, the air exchange rate does not meet the required indicators, and this causes damage to wooden structures.

Installation of floors on wooden joists on concrete

Such floors are considered more complex, labor-intensive and expensive; all wooden structures must be reliably protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the structures will quickly become unusable and will have to be replaced prematurely. Eat chemical method protecting lags from rotting processes using various impregnations. They are quite effective and actually prevent the process of wood deterioration. But unfortunately, impregnated wooden structures can no longer be considered environmentally friendly, and it is for this indicator that most developers install natural wooden floors.

If the logs are laid over the entire area on concrete, then waterproofing is required between them.

But they can also be secured using metal squares, which allows you to create a gap between the base and the joist. It must be borne in mind that in this case the load-bearing characteristics of the floor are somewhat reduced.

This fixation method has its advantages. Firstly, direct contact of wooden structures with concrete ones is completely excluded. Secondly, logs can also be installed on a black screed. With the help of corners you can eliminate irregularities of several centimeters; there is no need to finishing screed. This saves a lot of time and money.

The second method of laying on a concrete screed is to lay the logs directly on it; a material based on modified bitumen is used for insulation.

Laying logs on the ground

The method is used for outbuildings, baths, gazebos, verandas, etc. Wood must be treated with antiseptics. The foundation is better columnar; if you want to make a more durable strip foundation, then it is necessary to provide vents in advance for natural ventilation.

How is this floor made?

Step 1. Remove fertile layer soil. You can use it to fill the beds or level the area in front of the house.

Step 2. Mark the columns. The distance between them is selected taking into account the load and size of the logs. The posts can be made of concrete, block or prefabricated. The dimensions of the supports are approximately 40x40 cm, the burial depth is within 30 cm. A layer of sand ≈ 10 cm thick should be poured onto the bottom and compacted.

Step 3. Fill the supports with concrete. To prepare concrete, you should use two parts crushed stone and three parts sand for one part of cement. Water is added as needed. There is no need to make formwork in the ground; formwork from boards or OSB scraps is installed above the ground level. During the manufacture of formwork, you need to use a level; all edges must be strictly vertical.

Practical advice. It is much easier to make columns from ready-made blocks. Horizontal alignment must be done along the rope. After the outer ones are aligned with the hydraulic level, a rope is pulled between them. Deviations should not exceed ± 1 cm. This variation is eliminated during installation of the log.

Step 4. Proceed to fixing the lags; you also need to start work from the outermost ones. For precise horizontal alignment, you can use shims. It is not advisable to take wedges made of wood; over time, they will dry out and wobble will appear: the floor will begin to creak unpleasantly while walking. Between wooden structures and concrete surfaces, it is imperative to lay two layers of roofing material for reliable waterproofing.

Step 5. After the outermost logs are laid, a rope is stretched between them and all the remaining ones are laid under it. The logs are fixed with metal squares on dowels and screws. To increase stability, it is recommended to install them on both sides. Floor boards can be laid directly on the joists or a subfloor can be laid first. The final choice depends on the characteristics of the operation and purpose of the room.

Always select joists with a safety margin, especially in cases where the installation method involves bending loads. It must be remembered that correcting mistakes made during the construction of flooring always costs much more than carrying out the work quality materials and in compliance with recommended technologies.

Choose your joist boards carefully. They must be absolutely healthy without signs of rot. The presence of through cracks and rotten knots is completely prohibited. If there are large healthy through knots, then you need to install the joists in such a way that there is a stop under them.

When attaching the logs, do not allow the possibility of wobbling.

Most loose joists cause very unpleasant squeaks in the flooring while walking. To eliminate such phenomena, you will have to remove floor coverings; this is time-consuming and expensive; it is not always possible to keep the dismantled materials in a condition suitable for reuse.

Video - Installation of wooden floors along joists

At first glance, the floor design concrete base is nothing complicated.

However for the right technology installation, it is necessary to take into account many factors that in one way or another can affect its service life.

This is a multi-layered structural element of a house, subject to numerous loads and impacts. external environment, therefore, the design of work must be treated with due attention and responsibility.

Technological requirements

The correct installation of the floor on a concrete slab is carried out in accordance with construction requirements and norms. They characterize the design features of all elements.

In addition, they must comply standard requirements, characteristic for this situation: to be durable, moisture-resistant, wear-resistant.

When making a floor for a living space, you need to think about heat and sound insulation in advance. If we talk about standard technological requirements, we can identify a number of norms characteristic of this situation.

Characteristic	Name, technical specification	Short description
GOST 31358 - 2007	Dry cement-based construction floor mixture	Properties and compositions cement mixture. Use for floor
GOST 10178 - 85	Cement	Technical features and requirements for the material used for the screed
GOST 25328 - 82	Cement for mortar	Regulatory data regarding the composition and characteristics of the mixture
GOST 24640 - 91	Additive for cement	Type and method of use of the additive used for filling floors
GOST 7473 - 94	Concrete mix	Compositions, manufacturing technology and use of concrete-based mixtures
SNiP 2.03.01-84	Concrete and reinforced concrete structure	Installation of reinforced concrete structures, floor screeds with reinforcement
SNiP 3.02.01-87	Earthwork base and foundation	Subfloor installation process
SP 52 – 101 - 2003	Concrete and reinforced concrete structures without prestressing reinforcement	Concrete reinforcement process
SNiP 2.03.13-88	Floors	Floor design, installation requirements

Design, material selection and installation must be carried out based on the requirements presented in these documents. Compliance with the standards will allow you to create a surface that will meet all established parameters.

Among other things, it will have the following characteristics:

1. A smooth and durable base will be created, convenient and practical for the safe movement of people.
2. It will be of high quality, wear-resistant, durable.
3. In accordance with sanitary and epidemiological standards, a foundation will be created that is harmless to humans and provides good living conditions.
4. The operational standard characterizes ease of maintenance and possible repair.

All documents were developed by specialists and engineers, so it is not recommended to neglect them.

Classification

Floors consisting of screed, insulation and floor covering are called separate

Full analysis element allows us to distinguish several categories of genders, divided by purpose. This industrial buildings, residential buildings, public institutions and livestock buildings.

There are several more distinguishing features, first of all, division by type: monolithic, roll and piece. Analysis of the installation site is divided depending on the location: above a heated room, floor construction on the ground, along the interfloor ceiling.

Regarding sanitary standards, there are 3 types of floor installation:

• single-layer, made of material that complies with GOST for heat loss and sound transmission;
• separate structure, made of a separate layer of sound insulation, screed and finishing coating;
• hollow, made along logs (cuts) with heat and sound insulation laid between them.

You can understand how to make a good floor while meeting numerous requirements only after fully familiarizing yourself with the standards.

When faced with the question of which floor is better, many come to the conclusion that a concrete base is one of the most unpretentious.

It is superior to wood for many reasons, the main one of which is its immunity to the formation of decay processes.

In addition, concrete will not creak over time and has a fairly durable surface that is practically resistant to mechanical stress.

Concrete is not susceptible to stress and is durable

Moisture resistance indicators compared to wood are also excellent. However, it should be borne in mind that some of the disadvantages of a wooden floor can be eliminated by using modern technologies.

You should not extol the concrete surface and forget about its disadvantages. You can get rid of a constantly cold floor only after installation additional source its heating (warm floor). Based on this, the most the best option tiles will be laid directly on concrete in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen. For residential premises and living rooms, it is recommended to use other materials with inherent warmth and comfort.

The boards can be glued to concrete or laid on wooden joists

To lay wood on a concrete base, you can use one of 3 methods.

Each of them is rationally different from the previous one, which allows us to talk about different advantages and shortcomings.

The methods are as follows:

• the boards are glued to the concrete base;
• laid on wooden logs;
• stacked on plywood sheets.

All methods of installing a floor on a concrete slab have one thing in common - surface preparation is carried out identically, regardless of further actions.

The screed must be thoroughly dried and leveled.

Convex areas can be removed by grinding with a grinder, depressions can be filled with a self-leveling mixture.

After this, it is recommended to prepare the base for laying communications running under the floor. These could be elements of heated floors, sewerage pipelines, water supply, electrical, television or Internet cables.

The cuts can be made with a grinder

When processing a room with an area of ​​more than 50 m2, it is advisable to make seams that limit the deformation of the slab. In this case, using a grinder with a diamond wheel, several cuts are made. Only after this is it possible to coat the base with a primer.

The antiseptic will act as a waterproofing agent and protect the base from the formation of mold or fungal growths on wooden elements. The most optimal impregnation option is a one-component primer mixture. After making sure that the concrete is completely dry, you can begin laying the floor.

The humidity of the base slab should be no more than 4%.

Gluing

Glue the wide board with polyurethane compound

Bonded floor construction is considered the most common method of installing wood on concrete subfloors. For this purpose they are used Various types compositions that vary depending on the type of board.

The wide massive one is glued using a modified elastic one-component polyurethane adhesive. A narrow solid or engineered board is fixed with a two-component polyurethane compound.

The order of work is as follows:

1. Boards are cut to the required size.
2. The adhesive composition is applied from the far corner of the room to the near one, distribution over the surface is carried out using a notched trowel.
3. 3 - 4 boards are placed on this area and firmly fixed. At the same time, you should press them tightly against each other; this can be done with a tightening belt or wedges.
4. After checking the laid row, the procedure is carried out in the previously described manner. For more information on how to glue finishing material to the floor, watch this video:

The distance between the end board and the wall should be at least 10 - 15 mm.

The logs should be no thinner than 2 cm

This device involves installing boards on wooden logs, firmly fixed to a concrete base. This method can only be used if their thickness is more than 20 mm. Otherwise, they will sag under load.

It is allowed to distribute the timber on the surface according to the approved parameters, depending on the thickness of the board. To independently determine this value, you can use the table below as a guide.

The cross-section of the logs does not play a role in this situation, since they are installed on a solid surface.

The boards are fixed with self-tapping screws

Only after all calculations have been completed and the material has been purchased and cut according to the right size, you can begin self-installation.

At the same time, do not forget to process everything wooden elements construction with an antiseptic that protects it from moisture and fungus.

The order of work is to perform the following actions:

The peculiarity of the design is its higher cost and the ability to place thermal insulation under the floor and hide communications there.

On plywood

It is recommended to lay plywood diagonally

To lay a wooden floor on a concrete slab, sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 16–20 mm are used.

The material must be moisture resistant. The purchased slabs are cut into small strips 50–80 cm wide.

Laying is carried out in a diagonal direction to the location of the coating. The gaps between them should not exceed 3 mm. The strips are glued with glue or fixed to dowels and nails. After installation, the surface is thoroughly sanded and cleaned of dust.

It is important that the plywood is not too thin

The advantage of this method is the ability to level a surface that has height differences of up to 1 cm. The method of laying on plywood is considered the simplest and most inexpensive.

However, when performing installation, you need to take into account several features. First of all, this is the thickness of the sheets, which must correspond to the size of the boards being laid down. In addition, mandatory primer treatment and thorough cleaning.

The advantage over the method using logs is that the height of the ceilings of the room practically does not change.

Sometimes there are opinions from uninformed people that installing a floor on a concrete slab is a rather complicated, expensive and troublesome task. In fact, this is far from the case.

Wide selection of modern construction and finishing materials allows you to solve this problem in a short period of time. At the same time, the coating will be quite warm and durable, although it will be located on a cold concrete slab. To learn how to properly install plywood sheets on joists, watch this video:

The only thing that is required of you in this situation is strict compliance with technological requirements and standards associated with various characteristic properties building materials used to perform the work.

High-quality floor installation on floor slabs ensures comfortable living for people in the room.

Schematic diagram of a wood-chip floor.

Classification of floors is made by type of coating:

• planks;
• parquet;
• linoleum;
• slab.

And by type of structure:

• layered;
• single-layer;
• separate hollow;
• separate voidless.

Required tool:

Scheme of the ceiling over the ventilated underground.

• grinder;
• plane;
• hammer;
• trowel;
• cord;
• rule;
• saw;
• fasteners;
• screwdriver;
• roulette.

Layered floor construction

Mainly used in interfloor ceilings. They are made from several layers over colder rooms (basements, garages). A soundproofing layer is laid on the floor slabs, and a solid layer is placed on top of it. flooring– piece parquet or parquet panels. Plates are used for sound insulation Fiberboard brand 4, 12, 20.

Single layer construction

This floor is made directly on the floor slabs. If unevenness is detected, it is necessary to make a leveling layer. The material for the construction of a single-layer floor can be linoleum on a bioresistant basis, which is not subject to rotting processes. In rooms with high humidity(toilet, bath) a single-layer floor can be made of ceramic tiles or rubber-based linoleum.

Installation of separate hollow core covering

Diagram of a soundproofing floor.

First, a soundproofing layer is laid over the floor slabs, then the logs are strengthened, and the finished floor material is laid over them: parquet boards, tongue and groove boards or wooden panels. If the room has a continuous flooring made of unplaned boards, then fiberboard slabs are laid on top, the thickness of which must be at least 20 mm. Logs for the construction of a separate hollow-core floor on floor slabs must be planed and treated with an antiseptic. The dimensions of the bars (lag) are 80*40 mm. Depending on the thickness of the floor covering, the distance between the joists is determined. The thinner the material, the more often the bars are laid.

Installation of a separate hollow-core floor

Scheme self-installation floorboard.

It is built on the basis of a monolithic screed made on floor slabs. The screed is made from a mixture of concrete and porous aggregate of class B12.5, density grade D1200, the thickness of the screed should be no more than 40 mm. It can't be leveled cement mortar, irregularities should simply be sanded. Between the monolithic screed and the walls of the room around the perimeter, a gap of 20-30 mm is made, which is filled soundproofing material and is subsequently covered with a plinth.

The external covering of such a floor can be linoleum, PVC tiles, parquet, laminate parquet, fiberboard or other materials. A layer of waterproofing material is placed on top of the screed. It is laid overlapping or the joints are coated with bitumen mortar. Then lay a layer of sound insulation made of mineral wool grade 125-150 up to 60 mm thick, fiberboard boards up to 50 mm thick, sand or expanded clay.

Parquet flooring

Floor arrangement diagram.

Beautiful appearance, low thermal insulation and soundproofing make parquet (parquet boards, parquet panels, piece parquet) a popular material for the construction of floors. The installation of such a floor is possible on a solid plank base, fiberboard slabs, cement-sand screeds. Block parquet floors made in a herringbone pattern with or without friezes look good.

First, you need to mark the rows of coverage to reduce waste. A layer of glassine is laid on the prepared base, and the lighthouse “Christmas tree” is laid on it. Based on it, the floor covering is installed with careful connection and fastening of each parquet strip with forty nails, two driven into the side groove and one into the end groove. The caps are pressed deeper into the material using a hammer.

The installation of block parquet floors on screeds is made using a hot or cold bitumen solution in a “Christmas tree” pattern without friezes. When laying parquet, if necessary, level it using a special parquet planing machine or with a hand plane; After sharpening, baseboards are installed, scraping and sanding of the floor are done. The floor is slightly moistened before scraping. The parquet scraping itself is done inexpensively by a private craftsman. The laid parquet is rubbed with mastic or varnish.

Linoleum floors

Floor insulation diagram for the first floor.

Linoleum is a material used for finishing floors. It has such qualities as strength, durability, resistance to impacts chemical substances, elasticity; it is easy to clean and wash. For all these qualities, the material is very popular among developers. Disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation - expansion, shrinkage, warping and swelling. To prevent their appearance, the linoleum is first kept in a rolled-out state for several days to straighten and take the shape of the floor.

The quality of the base for the flooring significantly affects the quality of the linoleum floor. Possessing elasticity, linoleum is able to absorb even the slightest irregularities. Therefore, the bases must be level, clean, dry and strong. The horizontalness of the base must be checked with a special rod. The bases for linoleum can be screeds made of cement-sand mortar, fiberboard slabs, chipboard slabs, slag concrete, expanded clay concrete and plank floors.

To install a new screed on the floor slabs, a sand-cement mortar of 3:1 composition is made, which is laid on a hard and durable preparation in a layer of up to 3 cm and leveled with a rule or a trowel along pre-installed guide rails. The surface of previously made screeds must be clean and smooth. If necessary, the screed can be leveled by laying a new layer cement-sand mixture composition 1:2. Permissible humidity grounds – no more than 10%.

The most labor-intensive process is considered to be the preparation of bases for gluing linoleum on plank floors made on floor slabs.

Floor sound insulation diagram.

They should be quite tough. The base boards should not sag. Before gluing linoleum, the base of the floor must be well treated: the lumber must be dry, planed, treated with an antiseptic or drying oil. All cracks must be filled, cleaned and primed.

When constructing a base made of fiberboard or chipboard, it is also necessary to ensure the rigidity of the base under the slabs with mandatory grouting of the joints between them. The slabs are screwed to the wooden base of the floor with screws, their caps are well recessed into the material, and to the concrete or cement-sand screed The slabs are glued with hot bitumen. The surface of the fixed slabs is leveled by smoothing out the bulges, sealing the seams with mastic, priming and filling with oil putty. Then lay linoleum.

Ceramic tile floors

For installing floors on floor slabs ceramic tiles First, they make a base - a monolithic screed made of cement with the addition of sand (approximate composition 3:1; 4:1), the installation of which is carried out over a waterproofing layer. When installing the floor on wooden base it is necessary to stick hot on the flooring bitumen mastic waterproofing, then put reinforced mesh and put the solution over it. To install the screed, you should use beacon wooden slats, installed level along the walls of the room. Place the prepared solution between the slats. The horizontality of the screed is checked by the rule, the ends of which must rest on the lighthouse slats. After the solution has hardened, the slats are removed. The remaining grooves are filled with solution.

Scheme of floor covering and insulation.

Before laying the tiles, they must be sorted by size and color. Lay out the floor according to the selected pattern of the future covering, after which you should check the rectangularity of the room with a cord, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner, and then determine the width of the frieze and lay two mutually perpendicular rows according to the pattern dry. The distance between the tiles when laying them should be no more than 2 mm.

If the tiles do not fit completely, they can be cut and laid in a row located closer to the wall. Lighthouse tiles are laid according to the marks made on the clean floor. Then corner, intermediate and frieze beacons are installed along the cord and ruler. The prepared mortar is used to seal and lay the first row of tiles. After laying the frieze rows, they begin laying the tiles of the main floor covering pattern. In order not to step on already laid tiles, they begin to be laid from the far wall.

The solution used should be of a plastic consistency, and it is advisable to lay it in an even strip on several rows of tiles at once. Having laid the tile on the mortar, you should slightly settle it with light blows of a trowel or hammer on the block placed on top. Checking the horizontality of laid tiles is carried out as a rule. The seams between them must be free of mortar. Two days after laying the tiles, they are filled with a creamy solution of cement in water, having previously cleaned the surface. The infusion is carried out 2-3 times, as the solution shrinks. Remains of the solution are removed from the surface immediately after completion of work by wiping the tiles with moistened sawdust. Cover the laid tiles with moistened sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and, periodically moistening them, achieve good hardening of the solution.

Installation of laminated parquet floors

A modern building material for covering floors on floor slabs is laminated parquet. This is an environmentally friendly coating, reminiscent of wooden parquet, which consists of several layers and is very convenient to use. It is made of dense, waterproof fiberboard boards, covered with a layer that imitates wood. Dimensions of planks: length – 1.2-1.7 m, width – up to 18 cm, thickness – from 6 to 14 mm. The laminate planks are coated on top with acrylate or melamine resin to protect them from mechanical damage.

There are several technologies for flooring on the ground, depending on operating conditions and owner preferences. The flooring can be laid on a wooden base or on a concrete screed or slab. In the latter case, the slab is either attached to a strip foundation, or a floating screed (self-leveling, dry) is used.

To save construction budget, the basement of the building is most often covered with floor slabs, which automatically become the base of the floor. Monolithic design located above the soil, which does not freeze in the most severe frosts, and is saturated groundwater, radon radiation. Without high-quality natural ventilation, the concrete slab begins to deteriorate, and the health of residents deteriorates with increased radio frequency.

Therefore, in strip foundation or in the base, ventilation openings are created that cannot be closed even in winter. In cottage projects with low base There is not enough space for natural ventilation; the holes are filled with snow in winter. In this case, the only way to construct a floor is the ground technology.

Communications are traditionally routed through the lower level, so to ensure maximum maintainability, it is wiser to install duplicate sleeves and conduct additional systems water supply, gas pipeline, sewerage. If the main pipelines become clogged during operation of the house, in this case there will be no need to open the slab/screed; it is enough to move the risers to the backup life support systems.

What a developer needs to know about ground floor construction

This technology has a high operational life only if the requirements of the SP standards of 2011 numbered (formerly SNiP 2.03.13-88) are met. To understand the design of the floor “pie” on the ground of the first floor of the building, it is necessary to consider the Factors acting on the poured slab:

1. Heaving forces, which usually frighten individual developers, do not occur under most buildings. Cottages based on slabs, strip foundations, grillages resting on the ground or buried in it emit some heat to the lower level. With normal insulation of foundations (pasing the outer walls of the base with extruded polystyrene foam) under the base of the house is always preserved geothermal heat subsoil
2. Any project must have drainage and/or storm drainage, which diverts flood, soil, and water from the power structures of the cottage. melt water. Therefore, high humidity in the ground under a house is most often an aggressive advertisement calling on the developer to increase the construction budget to combat a non-existent danger. In fairness, it is worth noting that in the absence of stormwater and/or drainage system the soil under the building will indeed be constantly wet.
3. Even in the absence of heaving forces, the ground under the house will sag in 90% of cases during operation. The base slab tied to the strip foundation will end up hanging on it, which is not particularly scary with normal reinforcement. In this case, the floating screed will sink lower along with the floor, which will require dismantling and re-fabrication of the slab. Therefore, backfilling is used not with soil extracted at the excavation stage, but with non-metallic materials with mandatory layer-by-layer compaction with a vibrating plate or manual compaction of every 20 cm of sand and crushed stone.
4. A layer of geotextile under the pillow recommended by many companies backfill in this case, it is not only unnecessary, but also harmful. The soil will not be compacted, and the effectiveness of the screed/slab will be reduced to zero. Non-woven fabric used only in the manufacture of pillows before laying external engineering systems(sewage, water supply), paving parking lots with paving stones, paths paving slabs. In this case, the filtering and drainage properties of geotextiles are relevant.

Thus, when choosing a floor-on-ground technology, especially on a strip foundation, it is necessary to correctly position each layer of the “pie”. This will ensure maximum service life, ease of use, and high maintainability of the design.

What layers are needed and their relative positions

With a limited construction budget for a self-leveling screed/floor slab on the ground, the minimum required layers are (from top to bottom):

• reinforced reinforced concrete screed - most floor coverings (linoleum, laminate, carpet, porcelain tiles, floorboards, cork, tiles) or a base for parquet (multi-layer plywood) can be laid on it;
• insulation – reduces heat loss and operating budget (fewer heating registers can be used);
• waterproofing - does not allow moisture to penetrate into the heat insulator from the ground;
• sub-base (concrete preparation) - films, roll materials, membranes are often used as waterproofing, which are easily damaged during reinforcement, pouring the top screed, or with builders' shoes when laying a heat insulator, so a slab (4-7 cm) of low-strength concrete is poured;
• cushion - when vibrating non-metallic material, stability of the geometry of the lower layer is achieved, on which the floating screed will rest.

A polyethylene film between the screed and the insulation is optional.

According to SP standards, 60 cm of pillow (3 layers of 20 cm each) is sufficient for residential buildings. Therefore, if the pit is of significant depth, which is being made for a strip foundation, it is more expedient to fill it with the same soil to the design mark, also with layer-by-layer compaction.

A building on a slab foundation has a ground floor design by default. Therefore, before pouring the slab, it is enough to carry out the following steps:

• ensure duplication of engineering systems - additional sleeves with a piece of sewer + water pipe;
• make a cushion - excavate 80 cm of soil with 60 cm of backfill;
• perform waterproofing - film or roofing felt;
• lay a heat insulator - usually 5-10 cm of polystyrene foam, which retains its properties even when wet or immersed in water.

It is possible to plan the construction budget for a cottage only at the design stage. Therefore, the ground floor must be included in the documentation for initial stage.

Technologies for constructing floors on the ground

If, due to the above reasons, the project does not have a floor slab necessary to fix the floor cladding of the first floor, several options for arranging the substructure are possible. At the same time, pouring screeds from low-strength concrete is recommended in all cases, without exception. The main slab will subsequently rest on it or adjustable joists necessary when choosing parquet or floorboards.

Self-leveling screed

Scheme of a concrete floating floor on the ground

The maximum service life of the structure is ensured by a self-leveling floating screed on the strip foundation of the building. The technology looks like this:

• filling the pit with sand - periodic backfilling with compaction every 10 - 20 cm;
• rough screed– reinforcement is not necessary; film waterproofing can be laid under concrete grade M100 (5-7 cm layer, filler fraction 5/10 mm);
• hydro-vapor barrier - membrane, film or roofing felt in two layers, running onto a monolithic strip foundation at 15 - 20 cm;
• insulation – preferably extruded polystyrene foam, which retains its characteristics even in water;
• finishing screed - reinforced with mesh (mesh 5 x 5 cm, wire 4 mm), filled with concrete M 150 (crushed stone fraction 5/10 mm, river sand or washed quarry sand, without clay).

Also, in the construction of a self-leveling floor, you can easily install a warm floor; to do this, you need to lay polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes for coolant. Each contour of a warm floor must be continuous, i.e. Pipe connections in concrete screed are not permitted.

Scheme of a concrete floating heated floor on the ground

When the groundwater level is below 2 m, according to the experience of operating the site for at least 3 years, the absence of lower waterproofing in the floor structure on the ground is allowed, reducing the thickness of the sand cushion to 15 - 20 cm. In this case, the maximum groundwater level, according to statistics for the region. Any facing materials can be laid on the screed.

Wooden logs

A budget option for ground floor technology is the design of an adjustable floor:

• a concrete screed is poured onto a cushion made of non-metallic material (layer-by-layer compaction of 20 cm), covered with waterproofing;
• logs are placed on adjustable supports, top part which are cut off after installation;
• A heat insulator is placed inside ( basalt wool or extruded polystyrene foam);
• the floorboard or laminate is laid directly on the joists; for parquet cladding, a layer of plywood is required.

Supports cannot be mounted on soil or non-metallic material. However, a concrete screed without reinforcement is cheaper than any other technology.

Dry screed

Floors on the ground can be made using dry screed technology. At the initial stage, the design is similar to the previous case (cushion + rough screed + waterproofing). After which, the sequence of actions changes. Manufacturer Knauf offers a ready-made dry screed solution of the following type:

• positioning of beacons - special strips or profiles from gypsum plasterboard systems, fixed with putty solution;
• filling with expanded clay crumbs - the gaps between the beacons are filled with this material over a layer of waterproofing;
• laying GVL - special two-layer slabs attached to each other with glue and self-tapping screws.

Scheme of a dry floor on the ground using Knauf technology

The ZIPS company offers an original solution for dry screed on a strip foundation of a different type. Here the expanded clay chips are replaced with mineral wool glued to the gypsum fiber board (also two-layer). After installing the gypsum fiber panels, 12 mm plywood is laid on top of them, on which it is also convenient to mount any flooring.

These technologies are successfully used both for the first floor and for any subsequent floor in multi-storey building. In both cases, in addition to thermal insulation, sound insulation of the premises is provided.

Features of self-leveling screed technology

When building a floor on the ground, it is necessary to take into account several nuances:

• inside the contour of the foundation strip, the roots are removed, the fertile layer is removed, which is not suitable for compaction;
• polyethylene film allows radon to pass through, so it is better to use polycarbonate, vinyl acetate, and PVC modifications laid in two layers;
• It is imperative that the waterproofing does not allow steam to pass through, i.e. was a water vapor barrier (or simply a vapor barrier), because moisture in the soil is also in a vapor state;
• It is recommended to run the film onto the strip base around the perimeter 15 cm above the designed screed (subsequently trimmed with a knife);
• the insulation is applied to the height of the slab being poured; above this level, a damper tape is used to provide sound insulation from structural noise.

The floating screed of each floor in the house is created for several purposes. Cutting off the slab from the walls allows you to compensate for internal stresses inside it and prevent cracking from possible shrinkage wall materials, isolate the noise transmitted to the power frame of the cottage by generators, compressors, boilers, and other power equipment.

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Owners of apartments located on the first floors high-rise buildings, as well as private houses, are faced with a problem that brings them significant inconvenience. This low temperature floor surfaces, which negatively affects their durability and creates discomfort for the occupants of the premises. To eliminate the problem during construction, reconstruction or repair, floor insulation is performed. Modern market offers different kinds thermal insulation materials. The methods depend on their choice high-quality insulation concrete and wooden floors.

Attention, cold floor!

Some overly thrifty owners do not attach due importance to the problem of low floor temperature in the apartment. Wanting to save on the cost of materials and work, they arbitrarily exclude technological process laying the insulating layer. The consequences of such an imprudent decision are felt during the cold season:

• the floor covering becomes covered with condensation;
• pathogenic organisms - mold and mildew - develop in a humid environment;
• the microclimate of the room is disrupted - humidity rises, temperature drops;
• heating costs increase;
• The service life of the floors is reduced.

To make living indoors comfortable and safe, you should adhere to the work technologies developed by the builders. Only a properly built and well equipped house with warm floors- a real fortress. Modern materials make it possible to solve this problem quickly and without loss of quality.

7 main types of insulation materials

So that a comfortable microclimate is maintained in the house or apartment on the ground floor at the most cold winter, it is worth choosing for floor insulation best material. It must be remembered that even ideal insulation in unsuitable conditions does not perform the required functions. To select one that suits your specific requirements thermal insulation material, before purchasing, you should familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of its different types.

1. Basalt or mineral wool. The budget option, due to its low price, is extremely popular when building private houses and installing thermal insulation with your own hands. Attractive due to ease of installation, low thermal conductivity, and good sound-absorbing properties. High porosity promotes good vapor exchange, which is necessary to create comfortable living conditions. It does not work well at high humidity; once saturated with water, it loses its thermal insulation properties. When installing, be sure to use protective equipment. The ingress of tiny glass particles onto open areas body and mucous membranes causes prolonged itching and redness.
2. Styrofoam. Another inexpensive and popular insulation material, characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties and low weight. In the absence of point mechanical loads and exposure to aggressive chemicals on the surface, it is durable and reliable. Afraid of being hit directly sun rays, when burned, releases harmful substances. If there are rodents in the house, there is a high probability complete destruction foam layer, even protected by a screed.
3. Extruded polystyrene- improved foam. The developers have retained the useful properties of the old material in the new material and enriched it with additional advantages, in particular, quite high strength compared to foam plastic. Fire retardants included in polystyrene provide low flammability. The material works well even in an aggressive chemical environment, and does not pose a danger to human health. All its components are absolutely harmless.
4. Polyurethane foam. Extremely convenient way applying insulation has gained him enormous popularity. You just need to spray the polyurethane foam evenly over the surface from a special gun - and you can start screeding. Pros - low thermal conductivity and water permeability, long service life. The most advertised property is high adhesion to any surfaces, which is quite controversial. The material adheres really well to porous concrete, but does not adhere at all to polyethylene or galvanized metal.
5. Expanded clay, perlite, vermiculite. These natural materials(clay, volcanic rocks, hydromica) processed in a special way, are environmentally friendly and safe. However, they are characterized by high water absorption, and thermal insulation properties significantly inferior to artificial insulation. To ensure the same mineral wool thermal conductivity will require a 3 times larger layer of expanded clay. Accordingly, high weight increases the load on the base. Therefore, the material is more often used to insulate a concrete floor, which is installed on an earthen or sandy underlying layer; you can read more about it.
6. Foam glass. It is ordinary glass, factory foamed and formed into blocks. Excellent insulation, environmentally friendly and harmless. Not afraid of rodents, moisture, resistant to temperature changes and acids. Does not form pathogenic microorganisms and is completely non-flammable. Disadvantages: high cost, destroyed by pinpoint impacts, melts when exposed to alkalis.
7. Cork. Crushed cork oak bark, pressed into slabs, is an ideal insulation material, the only drawback of which is its high price. The rest of the material has mass useful properties: low thermal conductivity, high strength, environmental friendliness, non-flammability, biological resistance, low weight, good dielectric properties. Insulating a concrete floor with cork is an excellent way to do the job yourself, accessible even to an amateur.

Installation of warm concrete floors

To insulate a concrete floor during renovation or construction, you will first need to prepare a high-quality base, leveled and protected with waterproofing. The old concrete slab is repaired and all uneven areas are filled with thin concrete. The entire surface of the base is covered waterproofing material. To prevent moisture from penetrating into the butt joints, they are taped. Insulation selected according to the operating conditions and material capabilities of the apartment owner is laid on top of the waterproofing.

If you choose to insulate a concrete floor extruded polystyrene boards, they are placed apart. Other materials are laid close to each other, the joints are taped to avoid the formation of cold bridges. A layer of waterproofing is again laid on the insulation, and the resulting cake is protected from deformation by a reinforcing mesh. The next step is the installation of a rough screed. The insulation is poured concrete mixture, compact it, level it and leave it to gain strength for 28 days.

Laying heated floor cable mats under the screed

Another option for insulating a concrete floor is laying cable mats on a moisture-protected base. The technology for installing electric heated floors involves making a screed about 3 cm thick. It is not recommended to lay cable mats in places where heavy furniture or plumbing equipment is installed. Floor coverings are laid on the finished screed - linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc. In rooms with high humidity, ceramic tiles are laid.

Insulation of concrete screed under wooden covering

If the project provides wood covering on joists reinforced on monolithic base, it is necessary to perform thermal and waterproofing of the screed. The technique for insulating a concrete floor with joists is not very complicated and can be done with your own hands. The leveled base is divided into separate sections, the width of which is equal to the width of the insulation. Use as a separator wooden blocks- lags. They are fixed to the concrete surface with self-tapping screws.