The floor in a private house is a strip foundation. Floors on the ground supported by a foundation. Strip foundation slabs: panel floors and ground floors. Pouring the floor over the ground

Most developers, when choosing a ground floor floor design, consider two options. The first is reinforced concrete slabs.

Second - wooden beams(lags). Many people have no idea that it is possible to make a high-quality and inexpensive floor on the ground.

Meanwhile, this design cannot be called new. It began to be used after its invention artificial stone called concrete.

We will talk about what a floor covering on bulk soil is, what its pros and cons are, in this article.

At its core, a ground floor is a “cushion” of fine crushed stone or expanded clay, on which lies a reinforced slab of monolithic concrete. Ballast bedding performs two tasks:

  • raises the level of coverage to a given height;
  • transfers the weight of the structure to the ground.

The floor is protected from soil moisture and heat loss by insulation laid on a layer of waterproofing.

The load-bearing basis of such a coating is a layer of soil. Therefore, the main risk factors when installing a floor on the ground in a private house are frost heaving and moisture. The first threat is blocked by insulating the foundation base from the outside with sheet foam. It cuts off the cold bridge that causes water to freeze.

It should be noted that when permanent residence in the house, the temperature of the soil underneath never drops below zero degrees. If the building is empty in winter, then the forces of frost heaving can cause cracks in the concrete screed and deform it. In this case, you cannot do without insulating the base.

Protection from soil moisture is a relatively simple measure only at low levels groundwater(2-3 meters). On raw and marshy areas It is better to refuse the installation of such a coating. The cost of waterproofing and strengthening the foundation in this case increases significantly.

For pile and columnar foundations, a slab on the ground is not The best decision. In this case, the cost of protecting the bedding from frost is higher than when using a foundation “tape”.

Construction technology

There are two ways to install floors on the ground:

  • For concrete preparation;
  • Without a rough layer of concrete directly onto the compacted base (pillow).

The first method is rarely used today. It was developed at a time when roofing felt was used to protect floors from moisture. To glue it, a layer of concrete preparation (subfloor) was made.

The second option is simpler and cheaper. Modern waterproofing materials can be laid directly on the ballast pad without sticking to a solid base.

The process of installing a concrete floor on the ground begins with pouring the underlying layer. Before this, the installation of water supply and sewerage networks must be completed.

For backfilling, you can use any well-compacted soil. For this purpose, fine crushed stone (fraction 5-10 mm), coarse river sand or Sand and gravel. The pillow is poured in layers of 15 cm, spilling each with water and compacting with a manual or mechanical tamper.

Compacting the bedding with a vibrating rammer

To improve thermal insulation top level pillows can be made from expanded clay gravel (10 cm). The total thickness of the ballast “pie” should be in the range from 30 to 40 cm.

Film waterproofing laid under the insulation needs to be protected from damage by sharp gravel and pressing through expanded clay. Therefore, the backfill is completed with a 5-centimeter layer of compacted sand. The thickness of the film laid on the ground must be at least 0.4 mm.

When laying film insulation, its strips are spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, fixing them with construction tape. The edges are let down onto the masonry to a height equal to the total thickness of the insulation, concrete screed and finishing coating. A thermal gap 2-3 cm wide is left between the structural “pie” of the floor and the walls and partitions. It is filled with scraps of polyethylene foam or special thermal tape.

To insulate the base, you can use EPS (extruded polystyrene foam), sawdust concrete or perlite concrete. Often, waterproofing is not laid under foam plastic, since it practically does not absorb moisture. It is covered with a polymer film on top. It protects the insulation from the destructive effects of the alkaline environment of the cement mortar.

Under lightweight concrete On sawdust and perlite, plastic film is needed. The thickness of the listed heat insulators is not the same. For XPS it is 50 mm. The layer of sawdust and perlite concrete should be at least 10 cm.

Having laid the thermal insulation, a concrete screed is made on its surface using fine-grained filler (fraction 5-10 mm, thickness 10 cm). The work is carried out in two stages. First, pour a layer 5 cm thick and lay it on it. steel mesh(cell 10x10 cm, wire diameter 3-4 mm). After this, the thickness of the screed is adjusted to the design level, determined by calculation of the expected loads. Recommended concrete class B12.5.

That's how they get it the right pie floors on the ground with low soil water levels. Draft concrete preparation It is not made under rigid insulation. There is no real benefit from it, and the increase in the cost of 1m2 of the finished structure is very noticeable.

Installing a heating system (warm floor) changes the technology and sequence of work. In this case, first a rough concrete preparation is poured over the compacted pad and a layer of waterproofing is laid out. Having laid the insulation (EPS), pipes are fixed to it and a leveling screed is made of concrete. The reinforcing mesh is laid over the pipes or heating cable.

In passing, we note that floors on the ground can be made not only in brick, block, but also in wooden houses. With the right approach, ballast backfill does not have any effect negative impact on wood.

One of the options for properly pairing such a structure with chopped walls is shown in the diagram below.

Interface with a wooden wall

When the groundwater level is low, a concrete slab lying on clay or on a layer of compacted waterproofed bedding is made in basements. This is a very common option in cottage construction.

Before installing the screed, the area of ​​the room must be divided into strips 80-100 cm wide using a steel U-shaped profile or wooden beacon boards placed on edge. The damper tape is attached to the walls before pouring begins so that it protrudes 1.5-2 cm above the design mark of the finishing surface.

Pouring concrete begins at the far end of the room and moves towards the front door.

Laying is done in strips, filling the cells slightly above their level. For leveling, use a vibrating screed or metal rule, moving it along the beacons.

After allowing the mixture to dry, the beacons are removed from it, filling the resulting seams fresh concrete. After this, the concrete is covered with film and given 4 weeks to gain strength, periodically moistening it with water.

Pros and cons of the design

When planning to lay a floor on the ground, you need to know what its advantages are over other types of foundations:

  • Reasonable cost;
  • Readiness of the base for laying any floor coverings;
  • There is no need to ventilate underground space to avoid the appearance of fungus;
  • Greater durability compared to wooden and reinforced concrete floors.

The disadvantages of this design include:

  • Loss of useful room height (up to 60 cm);
  • Labor intensity of waterproofing work at high groundwater level;
  • Poor compatibility with columnar and pile foundations;
  • High cost of repairing hidden communications.

In this article we will analyze in detail the design and construction of a monolithic concrete floor on the ground. By “floor on the ground”, further in the article, we will mean a concrete floor made inside the contour of the foundation, directly on the ground. Let's consider FAQ associated with this floor, and the structure itself from the ground to finishing coating.

For what types of foundations can a floor be made on the ground?

Concrete flooring can be used when strip foundation, and with a columnar foundation (or foundation according to TISE technologies). The slab foundation itself (by its design) is also a floor on the ground. With a strip foundation, the floor structure is usually adjacent to the foundation wall.

Rice. 1. Connection of the floor along the ground to the strip foundation


Rice. 2. Connection of the floor along the ground to columnar foundation with a low grillage

With a columnar foundation or a foundation using TISE technology, the floor structure along the ground can be adjacent to the grillage (if the grillage is low), or located below the grillage (if the grillage is high).

In the case of a high grillage, the gap between the floor structure and the grillage is closed when the floor is filled, for example, with boards (can be unedged). These boards remain in the structure and are not removed, Figure 3.


Rice. 3. Connection of the floor along the ground to the columnar foundation in the case of a high grillage

The height of the floor on the ground relative to the strip foundation


Rice. 4. Floor on the ground on the expansion of the belt


Rice. 5. The ground floor is adjacent to the wall of the strip foundation


Rice. 6. The ground floor is located above the foundation strip


Rice. 7. The ground floor is adjacent to the top of the tape

There are no constructive mandatory recommendations regarding the mark (height) of the floor installation on the ground. It can be installed at any height shown in Figures 4-7 above. The only thing you need to pay attention to when choosing this option is where the height of the front door will be. It is advisable to attach to the mark of the bottom of the door so that there is no difference between the bottom of the door and the floor, as in Figure 8, or so that you do not then need to cut an opening in the tape for the door.


Rice. 8. Height difference between the ground floor and the doorway


Rice. 9. The floor is level with the doorway

Note: Opening under front door it is better (more correct) to provide for it at the stage of filling the tape. Just do not fill this place, insert boards or foam plastic there, so that there is an opening in the tape. If you forgot to leave the opening, then you will have to either make the entire floor higher (and this will increase the cost of bedding), or cut an opening in the finished strip, cut the reinforcement in it, weaken it, etc.

Thus, if the opening under the front door is made correctly (at the stage of filling the tape), then we arrange the floor on the ground so that the top of the floor is level with the opening under the door (taking into account the finishing coating). In order to correctly calculate the thickness of the floor structure, and determine at what point you need to start its construction, you need to understand what the thickness of all its layers will be, what this depends on. More on this later.

There are no such cases. Even when the groundwater level is high, it is more correct to install a monolithic floor on the ground than a floor on joists, for example. The type of soil, seismicity, level of freezing - all this also does not affect the possibility of installing such a floor.

Note: We do not consider situations where the house is raised above the ground on stilts; it is clear that then such a floor is not suitable.

Options for floor construction on the ground


Rice. 10. Floor construction on the ground with a ground water level higher than 2 m (with waterproofing)


Rice. 11. Floor construction on the ground at low ground water level, below 2 m, with bedding


Rice. 12. Floor construction on the ground at low ground level, below 2 m, without bedding, with pouring instead of rough screed


Rice. 13. Floor construction on the ground at low ground level, below 2 m, without bedding, with a rough screed


Rice. 14. Construction of the floor on the ground in combination with a warm floor

Note: Figure 14 shows the underfloor heating pipes and the reinforcing mesh above them. Between the floor pipes and the reinforcing mesh, - no gap, just drawn for clarity.

Description of the main floor layers on the ground

Let's analyze the main layers (pie) of the floor according to the ground. Let's look at the structure from the bottom up. We will describe all the layers that may exist, without reference to a specific drawing.

  • Compacted soil- the base for the floor must be well compacted;
  • Bedding layers(sand 7-10 cm and crushed stone 7-10 cm). Bedding layers can be used to protect against capillary rise of water and can be used as a leveling layer. The crushed stone in the bedding layer should be of a fraction of 30-50 mm (large). The sand in the bedding layer can be of any kind, both river and quarry (gully). Whether the crushed stone can be replaced with expanded clay depends on the purpose for which the bedding is made; you can read about this in the paragraph Is it possible to replace crushed stone with expanded clay, in the same article, below. It is important that the bedding layers are well compacted. There are conditions when a bedding device is necessary and when it is not. You can read about this in the paragraph What determines the design of a floor on the ground, in the same article, below;
  • Rough floor screed on the ground. This is a layer on top of bedding or compacted soil. Performed by plastic film(it spreads on the ground or bedding), the thickness of the rough screed is 5-7 cm. It does not need to be reinforced. Sometimes the rough screed is replaced with a pour. About pouring - in the next paragraph, about when you can replace the rough screed with pouring - in the paragraph Is it possible to replace the rough screed with pouring, in the same article, below. The crushed stone in the construction of the rough screed should be of a fraction of 5-10 mm (fine). The sand in the construction of the rough screed must be river sand, not quarry (gully);
  • Pouring (pouring) the floor over the ground. It is arranged by pouring a solution onto the bedding layer. The thickness of the pouring is equal to the thickness of the bedding layer. It fits without plastic film;
  • Waterproofing. Constructed from roofing felt, 1-2 layers. You can take the most ordinary roofing material, without sprinkling. There are conditions when waterproofing is mandatory. You can read about this in the paragraph What determines the design of the floor on the ground below;
  • . As insulation for floors on the ground, we recommend using EPS with a density of 28-35 kg/m 3, or polystyrene foam with a density of 30 kg/m 3 and higher. The thickness of the insulation is determined by calculation (depending on the climate zone);
  • Finishing screed. Thickness finishing screed 7-10 cm. The crushed stone in the finishing screed structure should be of a fraction of 5-10 mm (fine). The sand in the construction of the finishing screed must be river sand, not quarry (gully). The finishing screed (as opposed to the rough screed) must be reinforced. Reinforcement is performed with a mesh with a wire diameter of 3-4 mm. How to choose, 3 mm or 4 mm, is written in the paragraph What determines the design of the floor on the ground below;
  • Finish coating. The final finish of the floor on the ground can be anything. Accordingly, the details of the device are different for each type of coating.

Presence and sequence of floor layers on the ground

What determines the design of the floor on the ground:

  1. From the groundwater level;
  2. It depends on whether these floors will be with heat transfer fluids (warm) or not;
  3. From operational loads on floors.

How exactly the construction of a floor on the ground depends on these factors will be discussed below.

1. By the presence of waterproofing. Our recommendations: install waterproofing from roofing felt (1-2 layers) if the groundwater level lies closer than 2 m from the bottom of the floor along the ground. In addition, if the groundwater is located closer than 2 m, we recommend making a backfill of sand and crushed stone, Figure 10. If the level is lower than 2 m, then the floor can be made without waterproofing. At a level lower than 2 m, backfilling with sand and crushed stone is not necessary, Figure 11, 12, 13.

Note: You need to focus on the highest groundwater level that can be in a particular construction site. That is, look at how high the water rises in the spring, during a flood, etc., and take this level into account.

2. If there are coolants in the floor structure on the ground, you need to make a gap between the walls and the floor, 2 cm. This requirement is the same for both water and electric heated floors. The gap is made at the level of the finishing screed (with coolant). All layers below the finishing screed are placed against the walls without a gap, Figure 14. You can read more about the installation of a water-heated floor in the article.

3. If it is planned that something heavy will be placed on the floor on the ground (heavier than 200 kg/m2), then we reinforce the finishing screed with a mesh with a wire diameter of 4 mm. If the load is up to 200 kg/m2, then it can be reinforced with a wire mesh with a diameter of 3 mm.

Important points when installing a floor on the ground

These important points I would like to analyze based on the questions that, as a rule, arise among readers of our portal when installing a floor on the ground.

Can interior walls be placed on this floor?

Yes, you can install a screed reinforced with 4 mm wire interior walls from brick (into brick), from septal block(100 mm), and the walls are half a block thick. By “block” we mean any block (expanded clay concrete, shell rock, aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc.)

Is it possible to replace crushed stone in the bedding layer with expanded clay?

Backfilling is usually done in order to interrupt the capillary rise of water. Expanded clay swells with water and is not suitable as a bedding material. That is, if the bedding was planned as additional protection against water, such a replacement cannot be made. If the backfill was not planned as protection, but simply as a leveling layer, and the water is far away (deeper than 2 m from the base), and the soil is constantly dry, then you can replace crushed stone with expanded clay to install a floor on the ground.

Is it possible to replace the crushed stone in the bedding layer with broken bricks and waste construction materials?

It is forbidden. If the bedding was planned as additional protection from water, then broken brick and other waste will not fulfill its purpose in the bedding. If the bedding was not planned as protection, but simply as a leveling layer, then we also do not recommend such a replacement, since these materials have different fractions and will be difficult to compact well, and this is important for the normal operation of the floor structure.

Is it possible to replace the crushed stone in the bedding layer with expanded clay, pour more of it, and then not put insulation?

To replace 50-100 mm of EPS (this is the average amount needed to insulate a floor on the ground), you will need 700-1000 mm of expanded clay. It is impossible to properly compact such a layer, so we do not recommend doing this.

Is it possible not to reinforce the screed?

You don't have to reinforce the rough screed. The finishing screed must be reinforced.

Is it possible to reinforce the screed with something other than mesh? Instead of reinforcing mesh, is it possible to simply put metal rods in the screed without tying them together, or other metal parts?

No, for reinforcement to work, it must be done with a mesh.

Is it possible to lay waterproofing directly on bedding layers?

No, waterproofing must be laid on a flat and solid base (in our case it is rough screed), otherwise it will quickly become unusable due to uneven loads.

Is it possible not to make a rough screed and put waterproofing or insulation (if there is no waterproofing) directly on the bedding layers?

We discussed waterproofing in the paragraph above. The insulation also needs to be laid on a flat and solid base. This base is the rough screed. Otherwise, the insulation may move, and subsequent layers too, and this may lead to cracks in the floor.

Is it possible to do a wash instead of a rough screed?

Let's look at what we mean by “rough screed” and “shedding”. A rough screed is a layer on top of bedding or compacted soil. It is carried out over a polyethylene film (it is spread on the ground or bedding), the thickness of the rough screed is 5-7 cm. The pouring is done by pouring the solution onto the bedding layer. The thickness of the pouring is equal to the thickness of the bedding layer. It fits without plastic film. Now let’s talk about whether the rough screed can be replaced by pouring. If the water is closer than 2 m, and the backfill (sand and crushed stone) was used as a layer that prevents capillary rise, then watering cannot be done. Because spilled crushed stone will not interrupt the capillary rise of water. If the backfill was carried out for leveling purposes, and the water is deeper than 2 m, then you can use a backfill instead of a rough screed. If there is no bedding at all, and the screed is done directly on the compacted soil, then you can do both a rough screed and a pouring screed. It just turns out that there is no point in doing the pouring, since for it you will still have to pour about 3 cm of sand and about 10 cm of crushed stone, and in this case the sand is river sand, and the crushed stone fraction is about 10 mm. In general, it is easier to do a regular rough screed.

Does polyethylene under the rough screed replace waterproofing?

The function of this layer is to prevent concrete milk from going into the bedding layers or into the ground. This layer is purely technological; it does NOT replace the main waterproofing (roofing felt on top of the rough screed). If the water is deeper than 2 m, then waterproofing (roofing felt) is not needed, but this does not mean that we “replaced” it with polyethylene. It’s just that these layers have different functions and do not replace one another. When installing a rough screed and water deeper than 2 m, a layer of polyethylene is still needed.

Where is the correct place to place the reinforcing mesh in the finishing screed?

Does it matter where exactly the reinforcing mesh is located in the finishing screed layer (bottom, top or center)? If the screed is without coolants, then the mesh should be located 3 cm from the top of the screed (that is, approximately in the middle). If the screed contains coolants, then the mesh must be on top of the pipes, plus 2-3 cm of a protective layer.


Rice. 15. Finish screed without coolants, reinforcement


Rice. 16. Reinforcement of finishing screed with coolants

Let's take a closer look at what a strip foundation is - strips of reinforced concrete that are laid under load-bearing walls and distribute the weight of the building along the entire perimeter. This solution makes it possible to provide sufficient resistance, squeezing out the soil, avoiding distortion and subsidence of the building. As a rule, a concrete floor is chosen for a strip foundation for the first floor.

Step-by-step process of laying a concrete floor for the first floor with a strip foundation


When mounted ground floor or the foundation has been completed, proceed to the next stage - installing the floor on a finished strip foundation. The amount of concrete needed for the floor can be calculated using a self-leveling floor construction calculator. The excavated soil is carefully poured into the resulting perimeter of the building during the construction of the foundation (strip) in the process of preparing the pit. After this, soil is poured to the required level and then thoroughly compacted. To compact the soil, it is spilled with water evenly over the entire perimeter of the area for 2-4 hours. When the soil completely settles, backfill with a layer of crushed stone. It is necessary to select a layer of crushed stone of at least 10 cm, and the fractions of crushed stone themselves can be large, medium or small fractions.

We are installing a concrete floor for the first floor

Along the perimeter of the building area it is necessary to pour a 6-10 centimeter layer of sand and a layer of crushed stone on top. In order to protect the sand layer from moisture, we lay out a polyethylene film. A reinforcing mesh with a thickness of 10-12 mm will be placed on top of the film (depending on the future load). The reinforcing mesh must be knitted with a cell size of up to 20 centimeters. In those places where there will be intersections of the reinforcement, in other words, the corners of the mesh, they are welded by welding or tied using knitting wire. When the mesh is completely tied, it must be raised above the sand level. This is done to create a protective layer during the future pouring of the concrete layer. This solution allows you to protect the reinforcing layer from the adverse effects of precipitation. Bound reinforcement filled with concrete will distribute the entire load evenly.

With a concrete pouring layer level of 20 cm, reinforcing mesh must be raised a few centimeters above the surface. When reinforced mesh raised above the soil, crushed stone, plastic film and a layer of sand and proceed to the beginning of pouring the concrete layer. As a rule, grade 200 concrete is used for this. For correct calculations the required volume of concrete, you should multiply the thickness of the poured layer by the total floor area (for example, 20 centimeters), + 5% for a margin, since most often factories do not add concrete or errors in calculations may occur. Often, when building a house, there are large errors; it is for this reason that it is worth making a small reserve.

For reliable protection The finished foundation and floor will require high-quality waterproofing to prevent moisture from entering.
Watch how to do this in the video:

To correctly fill a concrete floor to a level, it is necessary to stretch a thread (beacons) along two diagonals or straight lines along the room, and when it reaches established level begin to level the concrete surface. A hoe or shovel is used for this. This is a rough base, and the final level of the concrete floor will be removed.


When the concrete floor has been poured onto the ground, the concrete must now be covered with a film to protect it from the influence external environment, prevent rapid evaporation of moisture from concrete. The film can only be removed after 2 days.

The process of installing a concrete floor on a strip foundation is completed. To cover the rough surface, you can use special insulation materials (foam plastic, expanded clay, URSA, etc.), which are covered with fiberboard, JZB, boards and other facing materials.


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Comments:

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  1. Alexei

    Hello!
    Please advise. Eastern Siberia, a strip foundation has been poured, about 50 cm high, I plan for the floor “pie”: sand, 50 mm penoplex, and on top reinforced concrete resting on the foundation. Maybe you can correct something for me with some advice, and whether the floor concrete will expand due to the heated floor in the future?
    Also brickwork the house will have a seismic belt (pillars), are there any special features?
    THANK YOU.

  2. Maksim

There are several technologies for flooring on the ground, depending on operating conditions and owner preferences. The flooring can be laid on a wooden base or on a concrete screed or slab. In the latter case, the slab is either attached to a strip foundation, or a floating screed (self-leveling, dry) is used.

To save construction budget, the basement of the building is most often covered with floor slabs, which automatically become the base of the floor. Monolithic design located above the soil, which does not freeze in the most severe frosts, and is saturated with groundwater and radon radiation. Without quality natural ventilation The concrete slab begins to collapse, the health of the residents deteriorates with increased radio frequency.

Therefore, in a strip foundation or plinth, ventilation holes, which cannot be closed even in winter. In cottage projects with low base There is not enough space for natural ventilation; the holes are filled with snow in winter. In this case, the only way to construct a floor is the ground technology.

Communications are traditionally routed through the lower level, so to ensure maximum maintainability, it is wiser to install duplicate sleeves and conduct additional systems water supply, gas pipeline, sewerage. If the main pipelines become clogged during operation of the house, in this case there will be no need to open the slab/screed; it is enough to move the risers to the backup life support systems.

What a developer needs to know about ground floor construction

This technology has a high operational life only if the requirements of the SP standards of 2011 numbered (formerly SNiP 2.03.13-88) are met. To understand the design of the floor “pie” on the ground of the first floor of the building, it is necessary to consider the Factors acting on the poured slab:

  1. Heaving forces, which usually frighten individual developers, do not occur under most buildings. Cottages based on slabs, strip foundations, grillages resting on the ground or buried in it emit some heat to the lower level. With normal insulation of foundations (pasing the outer walls of the base with extruded polystyrene foam) under the base of the house is always preserved geothermal heat subsoil
  2. Any project must have drainage and/or storm drainage, which diverts flood, soil, and water from the power structures of the cottage. melt water. Therefore, high humidity in the ground under a house is most often an aggressive advertisement calling on the developer to increase the construction budget to combat a non-existent danger. In fairness, it is worth noting that in the absence of stormwater and/or drainage system the soil under the building will indeed be constantly wet.
  3. Even in the absence of heaving forces, the ground under the house will sag in 90% of cases during operation. The base slab tied to the strip foundation will end up hanging on it, which is not particularly scary with normal reinforcement. In this case, the floating screed will sink lower along with the floor, which will require dismantling and re-fabrication of the slab. Therefore, backfilling is used not with soil extracted at the excavation stage, but with non-metallic materials with mandatory layer-by-layer compaction with a vibrating plate or manual compaction of every 20 cm of sand and crushed stone.
  4. A layer of geotextile under the pillow recommended by many companies backfill in this case, it is not only unnecessary, but also harmful. The soil will not be compacted, and the effectiveness of the screed/slab will be reduced to zero. Non-woven fabric used only in the manufacture of pillows before laying external engineering systems(sewage, water supply), paving parking lots with paving stones, paths paving slabs. In this case, the filtering and drainage properties of geotextiles are relevant.

Thus, when choosing a floor-on-ground technology, especially on a strip foundation, it is necessary to correctly position each layer of the “pie”. This will ensure maximum service life, ease of use, and high maintainability of the design.

What layers are needed and their relative positions

With a limited construction budget for a self-leveling screed/floor slab on the ground, the minimum required layers are (from top to bottom):

  • reinforced reinforced concrete screed - most floor coverings can be laid on it (linoleum, laminate, carpet, porcelain tiles, floorboard, cork, tile) or base for parquet (multilayer plywood);
  • insulation – reduces heat loss and operating budget (fewer heating registers can be used);
  • waterproofing - does not allow moisture to penetrate into the heat insulator from the ground;
  • sub-base (concrete preparation) – films are often used as waterproofing, roll materials, membranes that are easily damaged during reinforcement, pouring the top screed, or builders’ shoes when laying heat insulation, so a slab (4-7 cm) of low-strength concrete is poured;
  • cushion - when vibrating non-metallic material, stability of the geometry of the lower layer is achieved, on which the floating screed will rest.

A polyethylene film between the screed and the insulation is optional.

According to SP standards, 60 cm of pillow (3 layers of 20 cm each) is sufficient for residential buildings. Therefore, if the pit is of significant depth, which is being made for a strip foundation, it is more expedient to fill it with the same soil to the design mark, also with layer-by-layer compaction.

A building on a slab foundation has a ground floor design by default. Therefore, before pouring the slab, it is enough to carry out the following steps:

  • ensure duplication of engineering systems - additional sleeves with a piece of sewer + water pipe;
  • make a cushion - excavate 80 cm of soil with 60 cm of backfill;
  • perform waterproofing - film or roofing felt;
  • lay a heat insulator - usually 5-10 cm of polystyrene foam, which retains its properties even when wet or immersed in water.

It is possible to plan the construction budget for a cottage only at the design stage. Therefore, the ground floor must be included in the documentation for initial stage.

Technologies for constructing floors on the ground

If, due to the above reasons, the project does not have a floor slab necessary to fix the floor cladding of the first floor, several options for arranging the substructure are possible. At the same time, pouring screeds from low-strength concrete is recommended in all cases, without exception. The main slab will subsequently rest on it or adjustable joists necessary when choosing parquet or floorboards.

Self-leveling screed

Scheme of a concrete floating floor on the ground

The maximum service life of the structure is ensured by a self-leveling floating screed on the strip foundation of the building. The technology looks like this:

  • filling the pit with sand - periodic backfilling with compaction every 10 - 20 cm;
  • rough screed - reinforcement is not necessary; film waterproofing can be laid under concrete grade M100 (5-7 cm layer, filler fraction 5/10 mm);
  • hydro-vapor barrier - membrane, film or roofing felt in two layers, running onto a monolithic strip foundation at 15 - 20 cm;
  • insulation – preferably extruded polystyrene foam, which retains its characteristics even in water;
  • finishing screed - reinforced with mesh (mesh 5 x 5 cm, wire 4 mm), filled with concrete M 150 (crushed stone fraction 5/10 mm, river sand or washed quarry sand, without clay).

Also, in the construction of a self-leveling floor, you can easily install a warm floor; to do this, you need to lay polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes for coolant. Each contour of a warm floor must be continuous, i.e. Pipe connections in concrete screed are not permitted.

Scheme of a concrete floating heated floor on the ground

When the groundwater level is below 2 m, according to the site’s operating experience of at least 3 years, the absence of lower waterproofing and a reduction in thickness in the construction of the floor on the ground are allowed sand cushion up to 15 – 20 cm. In this case, you should take into account the maximum groundwater level, according to statistics for the region. Any facing materials can be laid on the screed.

Wooden logs

A budget option for ground floor technology is the design of an adjustable floor:

  • a concrete screed is poured onto a cushion made of non-metallic material (layer-by-layer compaction of 20 cm), covered with waterproofing;
  • logs are placed on adjustable supports, top part which are cut off after installation;
  • A heat insulator is placed inside ( basalt wool or extruded polystyrene foam);
  • the floorboard or laminate is laid directly on the joists; for parquet cladding, a layer of plywood is required.

Supports cannot be mounted on soil or non-metallic material. However, a concrete screed without reinforcement is cheaper than any other technology.

Dry screed

Floors on the ground can be made using dry screed technology. At the initial stage, the design is similar to the previous case (cushion + rough screed + waterproofing). After which, the sequence of actions changes. Manufacturer Knauf offers ready-made solution dry screeds of the following type:

  • positioning of beacons - special strips or profiles from gypsum plasterboard systems, fixed with putty solution;
  • filling with expanded clay crumbs - the gaps between the beacons are filled with this material over a layer of waterproofing;
  • laying GVL - special two-layer slabs attached to each other with glue and self-tapping screws.

Scheme of a dry floor on the ground using Knauf technology

ZIPS company offers original solution dry screed on a strip foundation of another type. Here the expanded clay chips are replaced with mineral wool glued to the gypsum fiber board (also two-layer). After installing the gypsum fiber panels, 12 mm plywood is laid on top of them, which is also convenient for attaching any floor covering.

These technologies are successfully used both for the first floor and for any subsequent floor in multi-storey building. In both cases, in addition to thermal insulation, sound insulation of the premises is provided.

Features of self-leveling screed technology

When building a floor on the ground, it is necessary to take into account several nuances:

  • roots are removed inside the contour of the foundation tape, removed fertile layer, not suitable for compaction;
  • polyethylene film allows radon to pass through, so it is better to use polycarbonate, vinyl acetate, and PVC modifications laid in two layers;
  • It is imperative that the waterproofing does not allow steam to pass through, i.e. was a water vapor barrier (or simply a vapor barrier), because moisture in the soil is also in a vapor state;
  • It is recommended to run the film onto the strip base around the perimeter 15 cm above the designed screed (subsequently trimmed with a knife);
  • the insulation is applied to the height of the slab being poured; above this level, a damper tape is used to provide sound insulation from structural noise.

The floating screed of each floor in the house is created for several purposes. Cutting off the slab from the walls allows you to compensate for internal stresses inside it and prevent cracking from possible shrinkage wall materials, isolate the noise transmitted to the power frame of the cottage by generators, compressors, boilers, and other power equipment.

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A fairly common practice in private construction is a ground floor on a strip foundation. This option has gained particular popularity due to its many advantages, including cost-effectiveness and ease of construction, because its arrangement does not require expensive materials and heavy equipment.

Flooring on soil - qualities and features of technology

What is a soil floor? This is a structure in which there is no distance between the ground and the floor - it is located directly on top of the ground, eliminating the possibility of air gaps.

Most often, a floor on soil is installed in houses built on a strip foundation (it is poured between the walls of the base), so it is not load-bearing. The weight of the walls and roof of the building rests on the base, and the floor takes the load from the finishing coating, interior items, non-load-bearing partitions and people.

The structure of this type of floor is multi-layered. Each of the seven levels plays a specific role that affects the quality of the finished structure. The ground floor consists of:

  • Soles
  • Litter layer
  • Waterproofing
  • Insulation
  • Main load-bearing layer
  • Leveling screed
  • Finish coating

Having understood the purpose of each layer, choosing materials for arranging the floor will not be difficult. And thanks to their availability, you can save a lot.

Advantages and disadvantages

The installation of floors on the ground with a strip foundation has both positive and negative aspects.

Among the advantages of this type of floor are:

  • The fact that it is suitable for pouring on most types of soil;
  • Resistance to winter heaving;
  • Low consumption of concrete mixture when compared with a slab base;
  • Easy to install;
  • The ability to bookmark yourself without hiring professionals;
  • No need additional insulation engineering communications;
  • The fact that it is immediately ready for laying any floor coverings;
  • No need to ventilate the subfloor.

Despite the presence of a large number of obvious advantages, soil flooring also has disadvantages:

  • When erecting an impressive base, the deepening of the strip base must be filled with a considerable volume of earth, which is fraught with unnecessary costs;
  • If the development area is different high level groundwater, laying a floor on the ground does not make sense.

Types of flooring on the ground

Installing a floor on a strip foundation does not require large physical and material investments, because everything construction works You can do it yourself without the help of specialists. It is worth knowing that there are two options for arranging the floor on the soil, carried out through:

  • Concreting;
  • Wooden beams.

Both options have their own characteristics.

The concreting method is known as a suspended floor on the soil - the soil in this case is the formwork for the reinforced concrete slab. Finished design It turns out very strong and reliable.

The method using wooden logs differs from the previous one in that it provides for ventilation, achieved by raising the floor above the ground.

To make a choice, it is worth considering the installation technique of each type of floor.

Installation using concrete pouring

Pouring the floor over the soil concrete mixture carried out in several steps:

  • The upper level of installation is installed - the doorway serves as a guide;
  • A filter pad is made. To do this, gravel is poured and compacted; a similar procedure is performed with river sand;
  • Vapor insulation is provided. A couple of layers are laid on the sand embankment, extending onto the walls. plastic film. The thickness of the material should be 3.3 cm. Instead of a film, a membrane is often used;
  • To add strength to the future floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed;
  • Beacons are installed using self-tapping screws and dowels;
  • Getting ready concrete mortar: mix cement, sand and water. The ratio of cement to sand should be 1:3, respectively. To simplify the work process, you can order a ready-made mixture.
  • The solution is poured in strips;
  • The concrete is leveled along the beacons using a rule;
  • Thermal insulation is carried out. Foam plastic, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay or mineral wool. The choice depends on the preferences of the owner of the house and his financial capabilities;
  • The finishing layer is installed.

One of the main advantages of a concrete screed is its evenness, thanks to which the most “capricious” final coverings, such as a 3D floor, can be mounted on it.

Installation using wooden beams

Installing a floor on the ground using wooden beams is done in several steps:

  • The soil is covered with crushed stone - the layer thickness should be 5 cm. The crushed stone is compacted, then covered with bitumen;
  • By using building level beacons are installed, which will serve during the subsequent installation of brick supports;
  • A screed is installed - it will become the basis for the bedside tables;
  • Brick bedside tables of the same height are placed along the floor area (the maximum height of each should be no more than 20 cm) at a distance of 0.8 m from each other;
  • The ends of the supports are wrapped with roofing felt (lap on brick block no more than 4 cm);
  • Beams are laid on the bedside tables (the distance between the joists and the walls should be 2 cm) and fastened with dowels and screws;
  • The tongue-and-groove planks are laid closely and nailed to the beams;
  • The evenness of the resulting structure is checked using a level, all defects are smoothed out with a plane;
  • The nail heads are puttied;
  • The surface is primed;
  • Thermal insulation is provided upon request;
  • The final layer is installed (you can simply paint the surface or varnish the floor).

The main feature of a ground floor is its multi-layer nature, and each level has a special purpose. Thanks to the wide range of different materials on modern construction market any master will be able to equip each layer with high quality. Concrete or wooden floor on the soil - the choice is up to the owner of the future home. Whatever option you choose, the main thing is to follow the installation recommendations and carefully follow the instructions. If the job is done correctly, flooring It will be strong and durable.

Video-1: Details and nuances (mat. part)

Video 2:

Video 3: rough screed



 
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