Laying wooden floors in a private house. How to properly make floors in a private house with your own hands? Insulated floor with unheated underground space
Every morning, waking up in his home, a person lowers his feet to the surface with which he will come into contact all day. Regardless of what kind of home it is, be it a high-rise apartment or private property, the floors in it are a three-layer structure, including a rough base, a leveling layer and a finishing coat.
Peculiarities
The floor in a private house is somewhat different from the one installed in an apartment. In order for it to last long enough, it must be protected from interaction with water, that is, waterproofed. Waterproofing is an independent procedure aimed at protecting the surface from the adverse effects contained in environment moisture, which can cause harm to any substance.
Kinds
Depending on the materials used, floors in a private house can be concrete or wood. The choice of flooring material depends mainly on what the walls are made of. If the walls are wooden, then the floor is made of wood. If the walls are brick or concrete, then the floors will be made of concrete.
Often the concrete base acts as a substrate for a wooden covering. Whatever type of device is used, it is important to strictly level all its layers, otherwise you will get an uneven surface.
Wooden Wooden flooring is environmentally friendly safe covering with good thermal insulation characteristics . If there is good waterproofing, such a floor will last for many years.
- Depending on the technologies used, a wooden floor is built:
- on joists on the ground;
- on support pillars;
on a cement screed.
Concrete Concrete floors are considered perhaps the most impact-resistant and durable. Cement monolith, which acts as concrete surface , will become an insurmountable barrier to fungus, mold and other microorganisms. Its disadvantage is that, When using concrete, it is necessary to provide additional floor insulation
, since concrete cools quickly, it does not retain heat at all.
Which ones to choose? The preference given to one design or another depends on the purpose of the building. IN or at the dacha, which are used in the summer, there is no need to create complex structures. In this case, the boards are laid on the logs. Of course, such a floor will not retain heat.
IN capital house used for living all year round, it is better to use more massive structures.
If there is no basement, then the most cost-effective and less complicated to implement is the installation of the first floor floor on the ground. In this case, two options are possible: either use a concrete base (the so-called screed), or install multi-layer wooden floors on joists.
What the floor will be like on the second floor is directly dependent on the method of constructing the floors between the floors. At wooden bases use beams and joists. If the floors are reinforced concrete, then only logs are used. The floor on the second floor, as on the first, can be on beams, on joists, on concrete slabs.
If the building has a basement or cellar, then the floor in it must meet certain standards. Due to the proximity of the land, it must be as insulated and stable as possible. The material is chosen depending on the further purpose of using the room: if a living room is planned in the basement, then wood is preferred; if a workshop is being created, then it would be appropriate concrete screed, and if a cellar is being equipped in which supplies will be stored for the winter, then there is nothing better than clay.
In order to avoid unpleasant surprises, when constructing a cellar, it would be a good idea to find out the depth of the cellar. groundwater.
Step by step guide
During construction country house is often preferred wooden surfaces. This is explained by the fact that wood is an environmentally friendly material. In addition, laying such a floor is easy to do from scratch yourself. Installation does not take much time, and there are no difficulties with repairs in the future. The poor thermal conductivity of wood will help the wooden covering keep the house warm. It will also be a big plus long term service and attractive, “natural” appearance.
New floor
New flooring in your home begins with choosing materials. The final result depends on the correct choice. So, you will need:
- Wooden beams or round timber for making logs. The logs represent cross beams, on which the floor is located. In this case, the height of the cross-section of the beam should be one and a half or even two times greater than its width.
- Unedged board for rough coating.
- Tongue and groove floor board for finishing flooring.
- Material for thermal insulation: sawdust, expanded clay or mineral wool.
- Materials for waterproofing.
The following example will help you determine how many boards you will need. Let's say you plan to lay floors in a room measuring 5x6 m. The lath is 2 m long, 0.13 m wide and 0.05 m thick. For such a board, the logs are laid in 1 m increments. Calculations are carried out according to the following algorithm:
- The length and width of the room are multiplied to obtain its area. In this case, 6*5 = 30 m2.
- Find the volume of required lumber in cubic meters by multiplying the thickness of the board in meters by the area of the future floor: 30 m2 * 0.05 m = 1.5 m3.
- Calculate the volume of one board by multiplying its length, width and thickness: 2 m * 0.05 m * 0.13 m = 0.013 m3.
- The number of boards is determined by dividing the total volume of required lumber by the volume of one board: 1.5 m3/0.013 m3 = 115 boards.
The amount of building material for the rough covering is determined in the same way. Since the floor surfaces in the house are subject to mechanical pressure, for their construction you need to choose high-quality wood without cracks and chips with a moisture content of up to 12%. Pine, cedar, and larch are considered more suitable. Before starting work, all building materials are treated with an antiseptic and impregnated with fire. protective compounds.Install the wooden floor in the following sequence:
- Remove a layer of soil around the perimeter of the room.
- Install support pillars.
- Fill with gravel at least 10 cm thick.
- Add a layer of sand.
- Compact.
- Lay roofing felt or other material on the support pillars waterproofing material
- Prepare the logs. If round timber is used as lags, then it is necessary to trim one side.
- Secure the logs to support posts.
- Make double insulation. For this purpose, sheets of plywood are laid on the sides of each joist, on which a heat-insulating base is placed.
- Post rough coating, tightly fitting the boards to each other and fastening them with self-tapping screws to the joists.
- Leave a gap up to 2 cm wide between the walls and the flooring around the perimeter. This will provide ventilation and protect the walls of the house when the floor expands while it dries.
- Lay a waterproofing layer on the subfloor. To do this, you can use thick (from 200 microns) polyethylene film. The joints of the polyethylene strips are glued with wide tape, the edges are wrapped on the walls to the height of the finishing coating.
- Lay a clean surface. If the floor surface in the house remains wooden, then the finishing coating is made immediately from a tongue-and-groove board, which just needs to be varnished. Varnish will highlight the beauty of natural wood.
If you plan to lay laminate, linoleum or other decorative material, then the expensive tongue-and-groove board is replaced with cheaper plywood.
If you need to make a concrete floor in a room, then it is poured according to the following algorithm:
- preparatory work.
- Clear the soil from the top layer and compact it.
- Add a layer of gravel and compact it.
- Add a layer of sand and compact it.
- Cover the entire area with thick plastic film for waterproofing
- Cement strainer.
- Set levels.
- If the screed is more than 5 cm high, or it is planned to install a heated floor, then a reinforcing mesh must be laid on the waterproofing.
- Prepare a solution consisting of cement grade no lower than M-300, sifted sand and water. For additional strength, add a plasticizer to the solution.
- Pour in the solution.
- Level the surfaces in the direction from the wall to the door.
- After the concrete has set, remove the beacons and fill their traces with the same concrete. Fill and level all cracks.
- Cover the floor with polyethylene and leave to dry for at least a month, periodically moistening it with water.
- Do not turn on the heated floor until the concrete has completely dried, as this will lead to cracking of the surface.
- Lay the top decorative covering.
If the technology is fully followed, the floor will please the owners both in hot and cold times, without requiring costly repairs.
Warm cover
The floor in the house should not only be beautiful, but also warm. Modern technologies allow you to install a heating system into the floor during construction or renovation. Most often, preference is given to the following systems:
- Cable floor using a special heating cable. The cable generates heat as it passes through it electric current. The installation method depends on which cable (single-core, two-core or self-regulating) is used in the system. This flooring is usually installed under tiles.
- Heating mat, unlike cable flooring, it does not require a cement screed. It is a thin cable attached to a synthetic mesh. A heat insulator with a reflective surface, such as foil, is laid under the final coating. The unfolded roll is secured on top with tape or glue. To change the direction of the layout, it is necessary to cut the base without damaging the cable. A finishing coating is laid on top. You can use tiles, laminate and other materials.
- Film or infrared floor is a special film capable of emitting infrared radiation when an electric current is passed through it. The film is ultra-thin, and the infrared radiation it emits is harmless to humans. All the advantages lie in simplicity: just spread the film and cover it with any floor covering. If several canvases are used, they are connected by wires. The heating temperature is controlled by a thermostat.
Installing floor heating using modern technologies will not only provide comfort in use, but will also not cause any particular difficulties in case of repairs. All renovation work comes down to replacing a failed element or section.
How to properly care?
You should take care of the floor based on the rules for caring for the material of its finishing coating. The floor is one of the main elements of the interior, so it is important to adhere to the established requirements when choosing materials for the floor. The coating is selected depending on the purpose of the room. For example, linoleum cannot withstand heavy loads, and parquet does not like moisture.
Materials used for finishing coating can be classified different ways: hard and soft, stone and wood, synthetic and natural. Each type of material has its own installation characteristics and methods of care.
Hard materials include tile and stone. They are durable and not afraid of moisture. Modern technologies make it possible to lay tiled floors not only in the bathroom and kitchen, as before, but also in other rooms. If desired, the tile can easily be replaced with another one. Tiles can be made from natural stone: marble, granite, and if financial possibilities allow, then from malachite, jasper, rhodonite.
Synthetic materials, such as, for example, vinyl, concrete, are practical, but are afraid of humidity, temperature fluctuations, as well as chemical and mechanical influences. Rubber for flooring is a mixture of cement, cork, rubber, marble chips and chalk. It is flexible, durable, resistant to mechanical stress and temperature changes.
Natural, oddly enough, is linoleum. It is made by applying a hot mixture containing resin to a fabric base, beeswax and linseed oil. Natural linoleum- This is an expensive but very effective material.
The most common surface is wood. Wooden coverings are made from various breeds wood. The most durable and very expensive is oak flooring. Maple, beech, elm, ash, linden, birch, cherry, and pine are also used. Modern wooden material is a laminate, which is represented by a multilayer structure. He has upper layer, made of wood. Laminate flooring is easy to install, inexpensive, and looks like natural wood.
Construction of a private house is a long process that requires a lot of time, labor and finances. Many, in an effort to save money, decide to carry out some of the work themselves. How to make floors in private homes without resorting to the services of builders? It’s quite possible to make the floor yourself if you have necessary materials, tools and knowledge.
Which floor design to choose?
Before you begin work on the construction of floors in a private house, you need to decide on the type of construction of the future coating. Experts distinguish three types of structures:
- Single;
- Double;
- Concrete floor.
The choice of one type of construction or another depends on the characteristics of the building in which the floor is laid. The operating conditions of a private home can be considered the determining factor. Single floor represents the most simple design, the construction of such a floor does not require a lot of time and materials, since the floorboards are attached with nails directly to the joists. The main disadvantage of a single plank floor is the limited use of it: such a coating would only be appropriate in small areas. summer houses and at the dachas. For a home where it is planned year-round accommodation, single design doesn't fit.
Scheme of the possible implementation of a “double” floor and a concrete one. If you want to do a private house, suitable for living at any time of the year, then you will have to arrange a double floor. This type of construction is warmer, reduces heat loss and provides comfortable accommodation in the house during the cold season. A double floor consists of several layers, the main ones being rough and finishing coatings. Between these two layers, hydro- and thermal insulation materials, protecting both the floor itself and the entire house from destruction.
Most often, the rough covering in a private house is assembled from Not edged boards, and the finished floor is made of tongue-and-groove floorboards. All work, including laying thermal insulation from sawdust or expanded clay, can be easily done with your own hands.
Boards for the subfloor. Third possible type floor construction in a private house involves pouring a concrete screed. Compliance with all rules preparatory work, laying waterproofing, pouring cement mortar and timing its drying will allow you to get a solid, high-quality floor, ready for finishing with any decorative coating.
Installation of wooden floors
When building a private house, many people prefer to make the floor out of wood. Such a desire to have quality underfoot wood flooring is explained by the desire to use environmentally friendly materials, which include wood. In addition to being highly environmentally friendly, such a floor has a number of other advantages.
Wooden floors are easy to install and easy to repair during use. Due to the low thermal conductivity of the material, such a floor will retain heat inside the house without letting it out. Plank flooring made from high-quality wood has a long service life and an attractive “natural” appearance.
To make a floor in a private house, you need to choose the right wood. The choice of source materials should be based on the design features of the structure itself. The installation of a floor in a country house must necessarily include the presence of a subfloor that acts as an air gap. If such a layer is missing, the wooden floor will quickly become unusable due to exposure to moisture. In addition, for a good floor, it is important to have all the layers of the structure, including joists, rough flooring, hydro- and thermal insulation, and a finishing coating.
The floor in a private house is subject to significant mechanical loads, so for its construction it is necessary to choose wood with good technological characteristics. The boards must be well dried, the recommended moisture content is no more than 12%. Any chips or cracks on the surface of the material are not acceptable. Experts recommend giving preference to wood coniferous species, pine, larch, fir, cedar are suitable. To increase the service life of the future floor, all boards must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardant.
Installation of a wooden floor begins with determining the locations for the support posts and their installation. The fertile layer of soil around the entire perimeter of the house is removed and removed, gravel is poured in its place, and sand is poured on top of it. Layers of gravel and sand must be compacted well. Waterproofing material is laid on the ends of the support pillars; most often, ordinary roofing felt is used for these purposes.
Backfilling with gravel. Next, we make beams that need to be secured to the posts with metal corners. It is better to make floors in a private house with double insulation. Experts suggest first laying on the sides of the beams plywood sheets, and then place mineral wool or other insulating material on them.
When the insulation layer is ready, you can begin laying the rough covering. The boards of this layer should fit well to each other; ordinary screws can be used to attach them to the beams. It is better to leave some distance between the flooring and the walls of the house: a gap of 1.5 cm can be considered the norm for this part of the floor. These gaps provide ventilation to the entire floor structure and protect the walls from expansion of the floor boards as they subsequently dry out.
A layer of vapor barrier made of polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns is laid on top of the subfloor. The joints of individual pieces of film must be taped, and the edges must be folded onto the walls to a height of about 20 cm - the height of the final coating. When the film is laid and secured, you can proceed to assembling the finished floor.
The finished floor is assembled from solid wood boards or plywood sheets. Plywood sheets are easier to attach, but in the end they don’t look very attractive. Therefore, if you want to leave wooden floors in your home, then it is best to immediately assemble the finishing coating from a tongue-and-groove board, and if you plan to cover it decorative material– just secure the plywood sheets. After assembling the finished floor, plank floors must be coated with varnish, which will not only protect the material from external influences mechanical and chemical nature, but also emphasizes decorative qualities natural wood.
Pouring a concrete floor
The installation of a concrete floor in a private house begins with preparatory work. First, markings and gravel filling are made on the site of the future floor. The soil is first cleared of plants and the top layer, and then compacted. Next, a layer of gravel is poured, which also needs to be compacted well. In the construction of a concrete floor in a private house, gravel will act as thermal insulation. Sand is poured on top of the gravel. After compacting it, a thick polyethylene film is spread on the surface, acting as a waterproofing material.
How to make a concrete floor in a private house? After installing the waterproofing layer, you can begin pouring the screed. A cement screed in a country house is poured in the same way as a screed in an apartment: levels are set and the mortar is poured, which is leveled from wall to door according to the rule.
When pouring a concrete screed, several features should be taken into account. The solution for pouring must be fresh; for its preparation it is recommended to use cement of a grade not lower than M-300, screening out sand and water. To increase the strength of the concrete layer, you can add special compounds to the solution - plasticizers, which will give the future coating additional strength.
When pouring screeds with a height of 5 cm or more, you can use reinforcing elements or reinforcing mesh, which is laid on waterproofing layer before pouring. In the case of installing warm water floors in a private house, the use of reinforcing mesh and the addition of plasticizers to cement mortar are mandatory procedures.
When the concrete hardens a little after pouring, you can remove the beacons. The voids left after their removal are filled with the same solution. After filling and leveling all the cracks, the floor is covered with polyethylene and left to dry. Drying a concrete floor is a long and responsible undertaking. The concrete must dry on its own within a month; if you have a heated floor system, it is prohibited to turn on the heating until the screed is completely dry. By turning on the heating elements, you will help the concrete crack before the room is used. When drying, it is recommended to periodically moisten the concrete screed with water and cover it again with polyethylene: if this requirement is met, the coating will gain maximum strength and will not crack.
To do it right cement pouring, remove the beacons and dry the concrete, it is recommended to look at photos of the work of builders who specialize in arranging floors in private homes.
Finishing
Making just a finished floor in a private house from scratch is quite simple, but sometimes additional installation is required decorative covering. You can also cope with this problem yourself. How can you cover the floor in a private house?
The most the best option For a private house, a double floor made of boards can be considered. Finish coating This design does not need to be covered with anything additional. This option is practical and beautiful, and also has a long service life. proper care. Before use, the boards should be treated with protective compounds and coated with varnish, which will protect them from sand, dirt, water and chemical substances. For coating, you can choose either a transparent varnish, leaving the natural color of the wood, or a colored one, giving the floor a different shade.
A concrete floor in a private house requires a top layer of decorative coating. As a floor finish, parquet or parquet board. This coating is quite expensive, but differs highly environmentally friendly, good antistatic and thermal insulation characteristics. It makes no sense to make parquet, but in a house where you plan to live permanently, such a covering will look appropriate.
As analogues to parquet, you can consider more affordable laminate, linoleum, carpet and ceramic tiles. Laminate will do for living room and bedrooms, ceramic tile It will look appropriate in the kitchen, bathroom and hallway. It is also better to place linoleum only in the kitchen or hallway. The use of carpet is more limited: the material is suitable for finishing floors in bedrooms.
The range of modern colors and textures of the listed materials allows you to choose a coating to suit every taste. In a private home, floors with natural patterns that replicate the texture of wood or natural stone would look appropriate.
It's no secret that the comfort of living in a home largely depends on high-quality floors. Installation basement floor It is produced using various materials: wood, concrete, special mixtures using self-leveling floor technology. Floors in a private home must be smooth, durable, retain heat and have aesthetic qualities.
Types of floors
The question of what to make the floor of a house from often arises when building your own home. Therefore, there is a need for a detailed study of the types of floors, taking into account their advantages and disadvantages.
Wooden covering
Wood floors look impressive, they meet environmental requirements, combine practicality and long service life, and allow for repairs as necessary.
Installation of a wooden floor requires the presence the following materials: timber with a thickness of at least 15 cm, edged boards with a thickness of at least 2.5 cm, waterproofing and vapor barrier elements, insulation. Timber and boards must be taken dry, their humidity should not exceed 12%.
Polyethylene film or roofing felt is suitable as waterproofing. There are a huge variety of vapor barrier membranes on the market. The insulation can be mineral wool slabs, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam, or expanded clay. You will also need nails and screws, metal angles, a hammer and a screwdriver.
Installation of a wooden covering goes through several stages. The first thing to do is to carefully level the ground, on which a sand cushion is then created. It is necessary to lay waterproofing on it. If roofing felt is used, the overlap between the strips is at least 15 cm.
Next, a strapping beam is installed along the perimeter of the house, to which, using metal corners logs are attached. All bars are pre-treated with protective compounds. The distance between the joists should be equal to the width of the insulation. If mineral wool slabs are used, they are installed by surprise. This must be taken into account when installing logs.
Then, over the joist and insulation, the overlap is stretched vapor barrier membrane, the joints of which are glued with special tape. The final stage involves the installation of boards. They are also recommended to be treated with protective compounds. The boards themselves should be nailed as tightly as possible to each other.
Note! Kitchen in a private house - 100 photos of design and layout ideas
When the wooden floor is ready, it can be varnished or linoleum laid on it.
Concrete floors
Most often, concrete floors in a private house are installed in utility rooms, but this option is also possible in residential areas. The floor is poured according to the following scheme.
If there is a need, a small pit 10 cm deep is first dug in the area of future filling. Then a sand cushion at least 5 cm thick is made, which is carefully compacted. A reinforcing mesh is laid out, beacons are placed, which will help you monitor the evenness of the surface.
Concrete will reach its nominal strength in 28 days, after which it will be possible to begin finishing. Options for such finishing are tiles or linoleum on a thick base.
Linoleum is used in living rooms, tiles are laid in the hallway, bathroom and toilet, and in the kitchen. Linoleum is glued to concrete with special mastics, or it simply lies freely, secured along the walls with plinths. A special adhesive is used to lay the tiles.
Self-leveling coating
To install such a floor in a private home, special mixtures are used, which self-level after application. This is one of the most popular methods of installing floors in country houses. The cost of a self-leveling floor directly depends on the manufacturer and brand of the mixture.
In addition, there are flooring options with a pattern or color, which is also reflected in the price. The base of self-leveling floors is a concrete screed, the surface of which is treated with special primers to improve adhesion. Using a drill with special nozzle, carry out breeding bulk mixture water. The solution is applied to the primed base in small portions and rolled out with a needle roller to remove air bubbles.
For better strength gains, the finished floor is covered with plastic film, if this is specified in the instructions for the mixture. After the solution has completely hardened, it can be coated polyurethane varnish to add shine.
The coating will be ready for full use in a week, and you can move on it within 12 hours after pouring. The peculiarity of this floor is that it is often used as the main one. But you can also lay carpet on top, lay parquet or laminate.
If you have the financial opportunity and the floors are being made in a residential area, then it is best to use three-dimensional or decorative self-leveling floors. To do this, you need to think about what kind of pattern will be placed on the floor, and then contact a company that specializes in these issues. She will take a photo of the floor in the house, printing it on a banner of the required size. Subsequently, using a special technology, this banner will be installed on the floor, making the room stylistically very attractive.
Warm floor technology
The most convenient and practical option- this is the installation of a heated floor in a private house. There are floors with water and electrical system. Electric floors are popular in non- large rooms apartments or country houses. The main condition for installing electric floors is the presence of a power supply line capable of operating under heavy loads.
The only drawback of an electric floor heating system is that it consumes more electricity.
In the case of floor heating in large rooms, in which there is also no central heating, it makes sense to use water floors, since they can significantly save energy.
The water floor as a heat source has water heated by a boiler, circulating through pipes built into the floor. Role heating elements is given metal-plastic pipes(there are options for using plastic pipes). They are laid on the subfloor and connected through a distribution mechanism to the supply and return manifolds. The water circulating in the pipes has a temperature of +35-45°C. More high temperatures would make the floor uncomfortable and subsequently lead to its destruction.
A water heating system has a number of advantages:
- heating costs are reduced due to the low temperature of the coolant;
- as an independent unit makes it possible effective use living space (in the absence of radiators);
- economical compared to the system electric heating floors, despite high installation costs
What kind of flooring to install in a private home is always decided on an individual basis in each case. In this case, it is necessary to balance the purpose of the floors, their price and the quality of the materials used. Knowing the intricacies of all the options, the advantages and disadvantages of this or that type of flooring, you can ultimately achieve a unique result, while getting the best floors for yourself.
Photo of floors in a private house
From the author: Hi all! As you know, all people are divided into two types - those who like to live in apartments and those who like private houses. So, my friend Ivan belongs to the second, for which he paid. When he and his wife bought their living space, he knew absolutely nothing about renovation, but the building needed improvements, and there was no money for professional builders.
I had to learn a lot, but now Ivan can do all the construction work and even lay the floors in a private house with his own hands. Most useful information he learned from best friend(that is, me). If you also want to furnish your home yourself and save on labor costs, then you have come to the right place. Let's get started.
During home construction, the question always arises: “What flooring is best?” Indeed, under any circumstances, it must satisfy such requirements as the creation of healthy living conditions and safe operation. The floor must be, first of all: smooth, durable, hygienic and non-slip. Device flooring there are several types:
- A wooden floor is considered a favorite of residents of private sectors, since wood is not only an environmentally friendly material, but also, compared to concrete, warm;
- for those who prefer strength to warmth, concrete floors are suitable;
- Floating and screed floors are just gaining popularity, but I think that over time they will outshine even wood floors, because they only take 1 day to install.
Before choosing one of these coatings, I recommend taking a closer look at each one individually.
Several ways to lay a wooden floor
It is possible to build a wooden floor even without the help of specialists; to do this, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the technology of laying it on different types grounds. Wooden covering comes in one or two layers (with a subfloor). If we talk about the advantages of wood flooring, we would like to note its environmental friendliness and ease of installation. Aesthetically pleasing, practical and durable, wood flooring can enhance any home.
Installation of coating on support pillars
The second name for this installation is “floating floor”. This type of coating is produced mainly when the connection of walls with joists is impossible. The work proceeds according to the following scheme:
Source: http://otdelkaexp.ru
- We begin by forming holes in the underground, into which we will install brick supports in the future. We cover the bottom with a 20-centimeter layer of bulk material, for example, gravel, sand or crushed stone, fill it with water and carefully compact everything.
- We begin laying brick supports on the compacted material (it is advisable to use red brick). There is also a second option: it is necessary to install reinforcement into the constructed formwork and pour a mixture of cement and gravel. If you decide to form the supports using the second method, then the cross-section should be 50*50 cm. We check the height with a level and adjust if necessary.
- We insert anchors into the pillars from above or threaded rods to a depth of 15 cm (beams will be attached to them). In a small home, the floor can be made on support pillars in almost the same way as in a spacious one. The only difference is that the pillars are placed only around the perimeter of the room and the beams are chosen to be more massive.
- After completing the preparation of the pillars, we lay 3-4 layers of roofing felt on them. It will act as waterproofing.
- We make holes in the beams for the mounting pins.
- We place logs or beams on our roofing material, hook them onto studs and adjust them with a laser or water level. After laying the base, we secure the lining to the logs using nails. We also need to fix the logs themselves on the posts using nuts and washers.
- We cut off the excess height of the studs using a grinder.
- We fill the surface of the underground with expanded clay sand, a layer of 20 cm. I recommend using expanded clay, as it perfectly insulates floors.
Source: http://izolexpert.ru
If you decide to make two-layer floors, then you must immediately lay floorboards on the beams, and completely fill the underground with expanded clay sand, leaving no more than 10 cm between layers.
Installation of rough covering
The subfloor can be installed using several methods. The method is selected depending on the insulation material used in the work. If it is slag, then the coating must be made continuous, from floorboards that are attached to the lower cut of the beams.
- We cover all the cracks with clay, and after it dries, pour insulation into the cells.
- We attach a layer of vapor barrier film to the bottom boards and beams and lay thin plywood.
- Next, we put insulation and again cover everything with a vapor barrier, fixing it to the beams with staples.
- We attach 10*3 cm logs to the beams, which will become a support for thick plywood or floorboards.
You can clearly see how to make a subfloor in the video:
Installation of wood covering on the ground
Installation of wooden coverings can be done not only on support pillars, but also on the ground. However, the scheme of work here will look different:
- We compact the soil well and pour a 20 cm thick cushion of gravel, crushed stone or sand on it.
- We compact the bulk material and lay roofing material or any other material for waterproofing on it. The approach to the walls must be at least 10 cm.
- On top of the waterproofing layer we place a support for the beams on the mortar (you can use concrete blocks or bricks). The distance between the beams must be at least 60 cm so that insulation can be placed there.
- We place insulation (foam plastic, mineral wool, etc.) in the free spaces between the beams.
- We install on supports made of blocks or bricks wooden beams, level them and fix them with a corner.
- Whatever coating you choose, it is better to additionally insulate the surface with mineral wool slabs.
- We cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film and lay the floorboards, securing them with nails.
- In order for the floor to be ventilated, we leave gaps of 1-1.5 cm near all walls.
Installing a wooden floor on a concrete base
If as a basis under wood covering protrudes or screed, logs can be laid directly on it. When the floor needs to be raised by 10-20 cm, installation is done on threaded studs. Do not try to save on logs - the reliability of the entire coating and the duration of its operation depend on them.
Let me immediately note this point - on concrete base There must be a rough coating. But this should no longer scare you, because we already figured it out earlier. So, installation is carried out according to this scheme:
- We mark the placement of the logs (the distance between them will be 60 cm).
- On the lines marked with color, we put dots at intervals of 30–40 cm and in these places we make holes into which we insert the retaining pins necessary to hold the beams, in which we will also make slits.
- Use a level to adjust the horizontal level.
- We drive the nuts screwed onto the studs into the drilled holes. If there is any excess left, you can cut it off with a sander.
- Now you can install the subfloor (see above) and decorative coating.
Installing joists on the screed
It is not at all difficult to install logs on a concrete screed, especially if you have all the necessary equipment.
During the construction or renovation of a private house, the owner is forced to look for answers to many questions - what materials to use in the construction of walls and decoration, what methods to use for construction work, how to protect the building inside and outside from negative impacts etc. Among them is the problem of flooring - how and what to make it from. One of the most popular options on this moment is a concrete floor in a private house. And you will learn how to arrange it in two main options - on the ground and on the floors - in this article.
Let's start by considering the advantages and disadvantages of using concrete when creating flooring in private construction. The advantages of flooring made from this material are as follows.
Also, every owner of a private home should be aware of some of the disadvantages associated with the use of concrete floors.
Tools needed to create your own concrete floor
Before we start reviewing step by step instructions for arranging a covering from concrete mortar, we present a list of tools that the master will need to complete this job.
Table. Concrete floor in a country house - tools for work.
| Tool name | What is it used for? |
|---|---|
| Mixing concrete from the main components. |
| Leveling soil, sand and gravel, mixing concrete, excavating soil for the floor pit on the first floor. |
| Storage and transportation of cement and other concrete components. |
| Compacting the soil, as well as cushions of sand and gravel, to create reliable support for the concrete slab. |
| Monitoring the position of beacons, applying markings before starting work on arranging a concrete floor. |
| Making the newly formed concrete screed smooth and even. |
| Working with small volumes of mortar, initial leveling of concrete for floor screed. |
| Elimination of small cavities with air in the thickness of uncured concrete screed. |
| Transportation of sand, cement and other bulk construction materials. |
| Removing “cement laitance” from hardened concrete. |
electric concrete mixer
Important! When working with floors large area It makes more sense not to mix all the concrete yourself, but to order it along with a truck with a mixer - the time savings will cover the increased costs.
Do-it-yourself concrete floor on the ground - step-by-step instructions
When arranging the floor on the first floors of private houses, one of the most popular options today is to create a concrete covering directly on the ground, without laying any floors. First, let's look at the conditions under which such work should be carried out. Next, let's move on to describing the main stages of creating a concrete floor on the ground.
Installation of a concrete floor on the ground
Concrete pavement laid on the ground consists of several layers different materials, each of which performs specific task. The first layer is the soil itself. It must be dry and thoroughly compacted. Pillows of sand and gravel are poured on top of it - they are necessary for additional leveling of the surface and distribution of point loads over the area. These layers also help to reduce the effect of soil heaving, which occurs when temperature changes. In some cases, when creating a simplified concrete floor, only sand is poured over the ground, without a gravel cushion.
Important! It should be understood that a concrete floor on the ground is allowed only if certain conditions are met - the groundwater level should be located at a depth of 4-5 m or more, and the ground should not be waterlogged. Also, various movements and heaving of the soil at the construction site should be minimal, otherwise such a coating will quickly become unusable.
Next, if a large load on the floor is expected, a rough concrete coating is placed. A film for vapor and waterproofing and insulation is placed on top of it. The latter, as a rule, is extruded polystyrene foam. high density. On top of them, a clean concrete screed with a thickness of 30-50 mm or more is created, reinforced with reinforcing mesh.
vibratory rammer
Preparation and carrying out measurements
After purchasing materials and missing tools, you need to prepare construction site. First, clear it of debris that will interfere with work - stones, vegetation, pieces of brick and other unnecessary things. Next, if the walls have already been erected, mark the lowest point of the doorway in the room - this is the level of your future floor. If necessary, make an adjustment for the thickness of the finishing coating in the form of parquet, tiles or linoleum.
Now you need to make a solid line around the perimeter of the room, indicating the level of the concrete screed. For convenience, first make it at a height of 1 m from the bottom edge of the doorway, and then repeat this pattern at the bottom - where the floor is on the ground and will end. After this, use a shovel to remove the soil to the depth of all layers of the coating you are creating.
Compacting the soil, adding a layer of sand and insulation
Now let's move on from preparation to step by step description arrangement of all layers of concrete floor on the ground.
Step 1. Level the soil with a shovel and rake so that it lies more or less evenly over the area. Remove stones from it if you see it.
Step 2. Compact the soil in the area where the concrete floor will be installed. Most often, a hand rammer is used for this - with this tool they go around the surface with a “snake”, evenly tapping the ground with force. If necessary, repeat this step two or three times.
Important! If you don’t have a factory-made manual rammer, you can make it yourself from scrap materials found on the site. For this, either a piece of log with a hand or metallic profile with a fairly heavy and thick steel sheet.
Step 3. Prepare the sand for backfilling. To create a cushion under a concrete screed, use quality material with a minimum amount of foreign inclusions. Pour sand onto the area where the floor will be built and distribute it evenly over the area. The minimum permissible layer thickness is 10 cm.
Step 4. Distribute the sand more evenly over the area using a rake.
Step 5. As in the case of soil compaction, take a manual or mechanical rammer and “snake” it across the entire area of the future floor.
Step 6. Pour water over the sand - this will make it denser and it will be possible to compact it even better.
Step 7 Go again with the rammer over the entire area of the sand cushion. If necessary, repeat this operation until there are no deep shoe marks left on the sand - only in this state will it be sufficiently compacted for a concrete screed.
Advice! For achievement best condition After compacting the sand cushion, level it horizontally using a rule or just a fairly flat wooden board.
Step 8 On sand cushion lay polyethylene or any other suitable film to create a layer of vapor and waterproofing. “Adjacent” pieces of film are connected to each other with an overlap, which should be at least 5-10 cm - thus reducing the likelihood of moisture or water vapor penetrating through this layer from soil to concrete screed.
Advice! If the construction of a concrete floor on the ground is carried out when the walls have not yet been erected and there is strong wind on the site, then temporarily protect the film from blowing away with the help of boards or other objects.
Step 9 Lay a layer of insulation on top of the vapor and waterproofing, using high-density polystyrene foam. As a rule, working with it is not very difficult - individual panels can be easily adjusted to each other. If necessary, they can be cut using regular construction knife with retractable blade. When laying insulation, remember that the rows of slabs are joined according to the same principle as bricks with laminate - the transverse seams should not be on the same line.
Pouring concrete cover
After creating the auxiliary floor layers, we will proceed to a step-by-step description of the arrangement of the most important part of the structure - the concrete screed.
Step 1. Prepare and install a reinforcing mesh over the insulation. Using plastic supports, slightly lift it so that it remains in the lower half of the concrete layer - the reinforcement will take on the tensile loads of the concrete slab on an elastic base made of insulation and sand cushion.
Step 2. Mix a sufficiently dense cement mortar to secure the beacons. They can be made from ordinary steel or aluminum profile, cut to fit the width of the room. Each beacon is fixed at several points, each of which is a small amount of dense solution. The interval between beacons must be less than the length of the rule. The optimal figure is 70 cm.
Step 3. Wait until the cement mortar holding the beacons dries.
Step 4. Mix the concrete, its grade should be at least M150. At the same time, try to minimize the amount of water used - this way you will achieve High Quality material and a small number of cracks and microcracks formed during hardening. When mixing concrete, it’s a good idea to add special plasticizers to the mixer, which can be purchased at any large hardware store.
Important! Some craftsmen, when mixing concrete, use liquid detergent as a budget replacement for specialized plasticizers.
Step 5. Place the mixed concrete between the beacons and do the initial leveling with a trowel. Then take the rule and form as smooth a surface as possible, corresponding in level to the beacons. Work with in small areas concrete. Having finished with one of them, repeat the same steps - lay out the material, level it with a trowel and finally bring the surface to a smooth state using the rule.
Step 6. Cover the concrete with plastic film to protect it from drying out too quickly - otherwise the risk of a large number of microcracks or cracks, but quite large ones, increases. In some cases, it is possible to moisten the concrete screed with a small amount of water. Wait until the mixture gains strength and hardens, and then apply a layer of self-leveling self-leveling floor - this will give you a perfectly flat surface suitable for any type of finishing.
Important! If there is an excessively large amount of water in the concrete, it comes out and washes away a certain amount of cement. As it dries, it remains on the surface in the form of a crust. light color, also known as laitance. It must be cleaned off, otherwise the coating underneath will have less strength and durability than it should.
Video - Do-it-yourself floors on the ground
Video - Floating floor screed. Types of solutions, filling methods, nuances and subtleties
Floating screed on the interfloor floor in a private house - differences from the ground floor
According to the process of its creation, the concrete screed interfloor ceilings does not differ significantly from what was stated in the previous section of the article. But there are several nuances that you need to be aware of.
When creating a concrete floor in your cottage yourself, remember that only strict adherence to technologies and standards will provide you with a reliable and durable coating that will be able to last for decades.
