Wooden floor in a private house. Do-it-yourself concrete floor in a private house: tools for creating a floor, step-by-step instructions. How to make the right floors in a private house - forming a concrete surface
Wooden floors allow you to retain heat in your home using minimal technical and material means. It is thanks to this feature that such floors have remained and remain the most widespread throughout their centuries-old history and do not yield their leadership even to the most modern high-tech flooring and coatings.
Floors made from high-quality wood, with proper care, retain their performance characteristics for centuries, are relatively inexpensive, universal (they can be installed on any type of base), harmless to the human body and look very impressive. If necessary, they themselves can serve as the basis for installing floors of a different type. In addition, wooden floors are quite easy to install and can be installed in a private house or apartment with just one person.
General principles for constructing wooden floors
Directly genital boards are always laid on joists, but the logs themselves can be laid either on concrete or even earth foundation, and on supports - usually brick, wood or metal poles. Rarely, but still used is a technology in which the ends of the joists are embedded in opposite walls or laid on specially provided ledges near the walls and operated without intermediate supports. However, in this case it is very difficult to cover wide spans - very large logs are required. large section and weight, and it’s almost impossible to install them correctly alone...
Device wooden floors on a concrete base practically no different from installing floors in an apartment with floors made of reinforced concrete slabs. The situation is much more complicated with installation of flooring on the first floor of a private house, since in this case it is highly desirable to arrange a ventilated and DRY underground. Its presence largely determines the strength and durability of the finished floor, especially in cases of high groundwater.
A few words about the instrument
The chosen method of installing the floor determines what tools you will need for the job. But in any case, you can’t do without:
- laser level; as a last resort, you can use a hydraulic level, but you will need an assistant to work with it;
- a regular or cross construction bubble level with a length of at least 1 meter; a cross level is preferable, as it allows you to align the plane simultaneously in two directions;
- a hammer weighing no more than 500 g;
- chain or circular saw, or a good hacksaw.
- jointer and/or grinder.
The usual carpenter's tools - a square, a small axe, a plane, a chisel, a nail puller - will also not be superfluous.
Floor installation on support pillars
Traditionally, a wooden floor is assembled from the following “layers” (from bottom to top):
- the basis of the entire flooring is logs;
- rough (“bottom”) floor;
- waterproofing layer;
- thermal insulation layer;
- directly wooden floor (finish flooring);
- finishing floor covering.
This entire multi-layer “sandwich” is usually supported by supporting pillars - concrete, brick, wood or metal.
Installation of brick pillars
The best choice today is brick pillars, which have acceptable strength characteristics, are quite affordable from a financial point of view and do not require special labor costs during construction. The only limitation is the height of such support pillars should not exceed 1.5 m; if it is larger, in order to maintain the strength of the supports, their cross-section will have to be increased, which will lead to a sharp increase required quantity brick and, accordingly, increase material costs for construction. For columns with a height of up to 50-60 cm, a section of 1x1 brick is sufficient; for a height of 0.6-1.2 m, the section is made of at least 1.5x1.5 bricks; for columns up to 1.5 m high, at least 2x2 bricks are laid out.
Anyway under brick supports it is necessary to pour concrete “nickels”, the area of which exceeds the area cross section columns at least 10 cm in each direction. The distance between the centers of the sites is selected within 0.7-1 m ALONG the logs and 0.8-1.2 m BETWEEN logs with a section of 100...150x150 mm. After marking, holes about half a meter deep are dug in the places where the pillars are erected; the main thing is that the bottom should be below the fertile layer of the earth. At the bottom of these mini-pits, a sand and gravel “pillow” is made, onto which the concrete mixture is poured. It is desirable that the surface of the resulting “penny” be several centimeters above ground level.
It is at the stage of laying out the support pillars the horizontality of the future floor is laid, and it is at this stage that it is best to use laser level. With its help, the level of the LOWER EDGE OF THE JOINT plus 1 cm is marked on the walls, a construction cord is stretched between the opposite walls along this level, and the height of the pillars is adjusted according to its level. It is not at all necessary to extend it strictly to the millimeter - a gap of a couple of centimeters is quite acceptable. When calculating the total thickness of the floor, it should be taken into account that at least its upper plane must be higher than the level of the building’s basement - otherwise it will be extremely difficult to avoid “cold bridges”.
Some features of support pillars
It is worth providing in them availability of fastenings for joist beams. Typically, vertical “studs” with threads embedded in 10-20 cm depth are used as such fasteners or anchor bolts– subsequently, through holes are drilled in the logs in appropriate places, with which the beams are “put on” the resulting pins, and tightened with nuts and washers. The protruding excess threads are cut off with a grinder.
The side surfaces of the columns and, especially, their upper plane, on which the logs will be laid, preferably cover with a layer of durable plaster– it will further strengthen the structure and play the role of additional waterproofing. Lay on the surface of the finished columns 2-3 layers of small pieces of roofing felt.
After complete drying and hardening masonry mortar(this takes about a week) you can now lay logs on the finished support pillars.
Laying logs on brick columns
The length of the joists is selected depending on the floor structure. When laying on support pillars, there are only two options for such structures - “floating” and rigid.
Floating or hard floors?
In the first case, the entire “sandwich” of the floor lies and is supported solely by posts, without being rigidly tied to the walls or. In the second, the ends of the joists are rigidly attached to the walls in one way or another; This design practically eliminates the “walking” of the flooring, but when the building settles, it may well lead to deformation of the finished floors.
With a “floating” floor option, the length of the joists is 3-5 cm less than the distance from wall to wall. In the second case, the gap should be no more than 2 cm - otherwise it will be difficult to firmly attach the logs to the walls. If necessary, logs can be made from two or more pieces, connecting them into “half-legs” - but the joint must fall on the support post and be nailed or (for lag cross-sections up to 10x100 mm) screwed with self-tapping screws.
If the final length of the logs is less than three meters, then they can be laid directly on the supports (not forgetting about the waterproofing gaskets made of roofing felt!); however, it is much better to place flat pieces of board 25-50 mm thick between the roofing felt and the lower plane of the joist beam. In the case of joint joists, this must be done!
Alignment of logs
After laying the logs on the prepared support pillars, they must be “aligned” according to the level. This is done as follows: using wooden spacers small thickness the two outer beams are laid strictly horizontally, according to a pre-calculated and marked height level. Spacers are currently used only on the outer support pillars; for now, you can ignore the intermediate ones. The ends of the exposed logs are nailed to the walls; In the case of “floating” floors, this fastening will be temporary.
On both sides, at a distance of 0.3-0.5 m from the walls, along the upper planes of tightly laid joists The construction cord is stretched. All other intermediate beams are derived from it; then, if necessary, spacers are installed between the remaining posts and joists. ALL gaskets must be RIGIDLY tied (nailed) to the joists, and, if possible, to the support posts. The beams must lie tightly on the pillars; in extreme cases, gaps of no more than 2 mm are allowed - but not on adjacent pillars.
Subfloor
After laying the joists, a subfloor is made. To do this, a narrow beam (“skull” beam) is nailed along the entire length of the lower cut of the log on each side. Untreated boards with a length equal to the distance between the logs are laid on it between the lags. After laying, these boards are completely covered with a vapor barrier film, onto which insulation is applied or poured. From above, everything is completely covered with a windproof fabric.
Underfloor ventilation
When installing the floor on brick pillars V underground space ventilation must be provided– forced (with a large cubic capacity of the underground) or natural. Required element such ventilation - the so-called "produkhi": through holes in or walls located below floor level. Such openings should be located along the entire perimeter of the building and under internal partitions, the distance between them should not exceed 3 m.
The dimensions of the vents are usually chosen 10x10 cm, the center of the hole should be at a height of 0.3-0.4 m from the ground level (above the thickness of the winter snow cover). It must be possible to block the vents in winter time. In addition, in order to protect against rodents, the ventilation openings are covered with a fine-mesh mesh.
When if the underground is not too deep(no more than 0.5 m) and the installation of vents is difficult, ventilation holes are made in the floor itself - usually in the corners. These openings are covered with decorative grilles and must always be open.
How to lay floors correctly
Before laying the floorboards, the insulation is covered with a windproof cloth. The choice of board depends on what exactly the surface of the finished floor will be. If it is intended to be natural, a tongue-and-groove floorboard (with a lock) will be required; if you are laying linoleum or laminate, you can get by with regular edged board. BUT IN ANY CASE, THE WOOD MUST BE WELL DRYED!
Attach the tongue and groove board to the joists
The first board is placed with a gap of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, and not close to it, with the tenon to the wall. The next boards are pressed against the previous ones using some kind of stop (clamps, for example) and a pair of wooden wedges. Boards, especially if they are thicker than 25 mm, are nailed - self-tapping screws are not suitable in this case, they do not attract the board well to the upper surface of the joist. The specified gap of 1-1.5 cm must be maintained along the entire perimeter of the room. The existing joints of the ends of the floorboards must be placed in a checkerboard pattern.
Final finishing of the laid floor
After laying the floorboard, the floor is ready for finishing treatment, which consists of grinding (scraping) and coating with paint or varnish. It is almost impossible to do this manually - you should use an electric jointer or grinder. After this very dusty procedure, it is recommended that all “opened” Treat cracks and crevices between boards with wood putty made on the basis of drying oil. Last operation Before painting, fasten the baseboard around the perimeter of the room.
The sanded surface is painted or coated with varnish, for example, yacht varnish; modern paints and varnishes allow you to imitate almost any type of wood or surface of the material. Usually at least two layers of coating are applied; paint roller and a good respirator. If you want to get a matte rather than glossy floor surface, you can use wax or oil.
To build a private house, you have to work hard, and all the processes performed require significant costs.
In an effort to save money, some do some of the work themselves, so the question arises: how to make a floor in a private house without calling in construction crews for help?
Anyone who has all the necessary materials, suitable tools and certain knowledge can do such work.
Types of floors
Diagram of a single and double plank floor Before starting work, you should decide what design the main coating will have.
Among the most popular types it is necessary to highlight following types floors:
- single;
- double;
- concrete.
The choice of each of them is determined by the design features of the building in which it is planned future installation, and conditions of further operation.
Features of flooring
Single floors are recommended only for summer cottages
A single floor is, as a rule, a fairly simple design that does not require spending a lot of materials and time. The floorboard is fixed directly to the joists using nails.
The disadvantage of this plank floor is its limited use. This coating is most often used only in the country, or in small houses and fully performs only the functions of holding the weight of all objects and people located indoors, combined with moderate cheapness.
In the room where it is planned year-round accommodation, such designs are used less and less.
Double floors consist of a finishing and rough screed and are thermally insulated A double floor is a structure suitable for installation in a room where people will be all year round. What should the floor be made of so that it is warm even when it’s cold outside?
This design consists of two layers: rough and finishing screed. Waterproofing and thermal insulation materials are laid between them. They perfectly protect not only the floor, but also the entire house from blowing and dampness from destruction.
Floor arrangement diagram The rough coating is made from unedged boards, and finishing - from tongue and groove. All the processes required to build a floor in a private house can be done with your own hands.
The concrete floor is a regular poured screed. To accomplish this, first implement preparatory work to dismantle the old coating and place the guides, then a waterproofing layer is laid and a solution is made with which the prepared area is filled.
So that the floor is of high quality and ready for further finishing works, he should be given the necessary time to set.
Concrete consumption table for poured floor.
Installation of a single floor made of wood
The instructions presented below will help you understand the question of how to properly install a floor in a private house, while observing the order of all actions.
- The installation of a single floor will be carried out on poles, which, as a rule, are mounted during the construction of the main structure. At the same time, the interval between the pillars should be maintained at 80 cm. Subsequently, beams 10 cm thick are laid on each of the supports.
- On top of this structure we lay a grid of logs, which should have a cross-section of 5x5 cm. If the board prepared for the ceiling has a cross-section of 3 cm, then the distance between the logs should be maintained at 50 cm. Place the system below the level using special wedges and firmly fix it with nails.
- A rough floor made of unedged boards is laid on this structure with your own hands, and a floor covering, usually linoleum or laminate, is laid on top of this layer.
For such floors, thermal insulation does not play a big role, since they are constructed for temporary or ancillary buildings.
However, when placed in residential buildings Before laying the subfloor, the space between the joists should be filled with sheets of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Positive properties are low cost and speed of construction.
Double wood floor
The structure of this design is somewhat more complicated. It includes, along with a rough screed, layers of steam, heat and water protection with a tier located on top finishing coating. Last layer, as a rule, is made from tongue-and-groove boards.
How to build a floor that will keep you cool in the summer and keep you cool in the winter pleasant microclimate? Read more about correct device watch the floor in this video:
You can do all the processes yourself if you follow the step-by-step instructions:
When placing the boards, it should be taken into account that there should be an air pocket of at least 2-3 cm between the vapor barrier and the layer of finishing boards.
For good ventilation, special through holes should be made in the air pocket, which must be covered with decorative sheathing.
Concrete floor
Initially, markings are made to make such a coating. To do this, you should use a laser level, which will accurately help you set the marks along which the threads will subsequently be pulled.
Calculation and tools
Concrete floor installation To carry out all processes, you must have:
- vibrating rammer;
- roofing felt;
- fine expanded clay;
- durable polyethylene film;
- foam boards;
- reinforced mesh;
- spirit or laser level;
- slats.
Only by making a durable, perfectly level concrete floor can you hope for high-quality arrangement floor covering.
Concrete floor installation
Before making floors in a private house, you need to read the instructions, which will help you carry out all the processes in strict accordance with the rules and regulations:
- Initially, the base of the surface on which the concrete floor will be made is prepared. For this purpose it is being prepared rough foundation, which can be made from interlayers broken bricks or crushed stone using M100 concrete.
- The next stage involves installing a waterproofing layer. It is very practical in this case to use roofing material.
- After this, you need to take care of thermal insulation. You can use expanded clay or foam boards for this purpose. IN middle lane It is advisable to place both of these layers at the same time, starting with the foam.
- It is best to place a small wooden sheathing on top of the laid layers, followed by laying a chain-link mesh.
- On top of the erected frame, starting from the corner farthest from the entrance, a smooth pouring of concrete begins with simultaneous leveling according to the rule along the marked beacon lines. Filling is carried out in one go.
- The final stage is leveling the top layer with liquid cement mortar or a special self-leveling compound. To learn how to properly fill a subfloor, watch this video:
To successfully complete your floor pouring tasks, you should follow the included instructions and purchase quality Consumables and devices.
The floor in the house may vary. The most environmentally friendly and comfortable are wooden floors. This warm material, which will create comfort and better retain heat indoors. In addition, wood preserves the environmental friendliness of a wooden cottage. Concrete materials more durable and stable, but they also require serious finishing and good insulation. A design that combines concrete and wood is considered popular today. Let's look at how to make a floor in a private house with your own hands.
Installing a concrete floor
To properly install a concrete floor with your own hands, first make markings and fill the soil with gravel for thermal insulation. A layer of sand is poured on top of the gravel, each layer is carefully compacted. Then the sand is covered with waterproofing material in the form of polyethylene film or sheets of roofing material.
Insulation in the form of crushed stone or another layer of gravel is laid on top of the waterproofing, then the waterproofing is laid again and only then a concrete screed is made. The solution is used only of fresh grade not lower than M-300. To increase the strength of concrete, special plasticizer compounds are added to the mixture.
It is important to dry the concrete properly. Typically this takes three to four weeks. During drying, the surface should be covered with film and the screed should be periodically moistened with water. Do not use heating elements and do not turn on the heating in the house before the concrete has dried! Otherwise the surface will crack.
To enhance the thermal insulation of a concrete floor, you can use additional insulation. The concrete is covered with wooden materials on top or a “warm floor” system is laid.
Wooden floor installation
Wooden floors are installed and secured to logs, which are made from bars. Wooden bars are usually installed on a concrete screed. Such a multi-layer structure is a must for a house with a basement or ground floor. A lot of interesting projects country cottages and country houses made of wood you will find in the “MariSrub” catalogue.
Since the floor is constantly exposed to mechanical stress, the wood for the structure must be strong and High Quality no chips, cracks or rot. For floors in a private home, it is better to choose well-dried wooden materials with humidity up to 12%. Give preference to coniferous species, including pine, larch and cedar.
If you decide to lay the flooring in your house with your own hands, follow the following sequence of actions:
- Concrete screed and subfloor;
- Waterproofing and installation of logs;
- Thermal insulation;
- Another layer of thermal insulation and vapor barrier;
- Laying the main floor and finishing.
First, a concrete screed is made, then a waterproofing layer is laid. For waterproofing, it is better to take several sheets of roofing material and plastic film. Then the logs are installed so that the support pillars are located at a distance of one meter from each other. If there is a basement or plinth, the spans can be made larger. Insulation is placed between the joists and covered with a vapor barrier film on top.
For maximum effect double floor is used. First, a subfloor is made from untreated boards, which are laid on the floor. This design will protect the finished floor from displacement when the wooden floor shrinks. Afterwards the finishing floor is installed. At the MariSrub company, the subfloor is already included in the price of the house kit!
To ensure that the structure lasts a long time, wooden materials and each wooden element are treated with special protective equipment. These are antiseptics, fire retardants, special varnishes and paints. Such compositions preserve natural wood from negative impact moisture and insects.
Finishing the floor in a wooden house
Floor finishes vary. A rational option for a house made of logs or timber would be wooden materials. They look harmonious in wooden building, preserve the environmental friendliness and special atmosphere of wood. In addition, wood is easy to install and process. You can easily finish the floor with your own hands, as well as achieve the desired color, shade and shine of the surface. The wood is pleasant to the touch. It retains heat for a long time and does not overheat.
Today, the following types of wooden flooring are distinguished:
- Floor boards are edged and planed boards that are characterized by aesthetics, neatness and simplicity. Standard floorboards are perfect for a cottage, bathhouse or summer house. They create coziness and comfort, while being inexpensive.
- Parquet is a common option for finishing floors This is an affordable, easy and quick to install material made from natural wood. After coating with paint and varnish, the surface of the parquet looks elegant and luxurious. It is suitable for finishing a spacious cottage and a home for permanent residence;
- Laminate - fibreboard with high density. It is more affordable than parquet, since it is not entirely made of natural wood. But if you install and treat this flooring correctly, it will look attractive and last a long time;
- Cork covering - modern version finishing with increased sound and thermal insulation properties. Cork flooring is characterized by its elegant appearance and resistance to moisture, making it suitable for any type of room.
- Solid board is an expensive material made from natural elite wood. Such a durable and high-quality coating lasts 40-50 years. The array looks luxurious and impressive, but at the same time does not tolerate increased humidity. It is suitable for finishing the floor in the living room.
For the kitchen, bathroom and toilet it is better to choose ceramic tiles, and for the basement or ground floor- linoleum. Wooden floors and coverings in such premises are subject to strong impact moisture, so they quickly break down.
Installing and finishing the floor in a private house with your own hands is a complex process that requires certain knowledge and skills. If installation is not done correctly and not processed wooden elements protective means, then soon the structure will crack, rot and lose original appearance. To avoid such problems, contact professionals!
The masters of the MariSrub company will help you choose suitable materials, calculate the size and cost of floors. They will reliably and promptly complete a design drawing, install a rough and finished floor, install any floor covering and finishing tree in country house.
To provide comfortable temperature And favorable conditions Living in a house requires a reliable, even and warm covering – the floor. When considering methods for laying a floor base, building owners decide which floor needs to be laid in own home. It is important to choose the right material, the strength and properties of which determine the level of thermal insulation and reliability of the base. Let's figure out how to build floors with your own hands in a private house. Let's consider the technology according to which the wooden base is installed, concrete pouring floor, as well as installing plywood on a dry layer of sand.
Choosing a floor base and a method for constructing a good floor
Arrangement of the floor in country cottage, at the dacha or in your own home is a serious and responsible task that many try to solve on their own. However, without studying the features of the technology, it is problematic to give a clear answer on how to make a floor in a private house. It is important to think through not only design issues, but also decide on the method of installing the floor base and the materials used.
A serious and responsible task: arranging the floor in a country house
The most common in the private sector are the following self-installed flooring options:
- wood. The main advantages of wood flooring are environmental friendliness and increased thermal insulation characteristics. At the same time wooden boards are characterized by increased hygroscopicity and require effective waterproofing protection. The wooden floor is laid on support beams located above the ground surface, on wooden beams, resting on brick pedestals, as well as on planks laid on a concrete or cement screed. Building a wooden floor is not difficult. The plank base is durable, maintainable and attracts attention with its original texture. Correct selection material for plank base determines performance characteristics. It is important to use dried wood, the moisture concentration of which does not exceed 12-14%. The use of boards with defects in the form of cracks, falling knots and chips is not allowed. The material used is conifers trees, as well as hardwood. Impregnation of boards with antiseptic compounds ensures the durability of the structure;
Environmental friendliness and increased thermal insulation characteristics are the main advantages of wood flooring - concrete. He is superior in strength characteristics and service life of all types of floor bases. By doing concrete screed increased height, additional reinforcement of the concrete mass is made with reinforcement lattice. It prevents cracking of the monolith. However, the concrete base has a serious drawback - increased thermal conductivity. To ensure a comfortable temperature of the concrete floor and reduce heat loss, be sure to lay insulation in the form of granulated expanded clay, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. A waterproofing material is placed on top of the insulating layer, and then the concrete mixture is poured. It is important to use a fresh concrete solution made from Portland cement grade M400 and higher. To improve appearance and improve thermal insulation concrete base combined with wood;
- floor base in the form of a dry screed. This type of floor has gained popularity relatively recently and is a progressive solution in construction industry. A dry screed is also called a loose floor or a floating floor structure. This type of base attracts with its ease of formation and accelerated pace of work. Dry screed is performed on a planned base, which is waterproofed and then logs are laid. Fine expanded clay, slag or sifted sand are poured into the space between the joists. Then you need to pull off the bulk composition and distribute it evenly over the entire area. On final stage dry screed structures are laid or sheet plywood is installed. is durable and prevents heat loss.
When choosing installation methods and material for the future floor, you should study the design features of the floor base, as well as analyze its advantages and weaknesses.
All types of flooring subfloors are superior to concrete flooring We make floors in a private house using wood
Wooden floors are often preferred due to their attractive appearance and environmental friendliness of the material. To ensure the reliability of the plank floor, you should not only decide on the wood, but also choose a design option. Wood floors are constructed various methods. In this case, logs made of wooden beams are an integral element of the structure.
The logs are laid on the following bases:
- beams fixed to the walls of the building;
- columnar supports made of bricks or blocks;
- concrete screed reinforced with reinforcement.
Depending on the wishes of the customer, builders construct a single-layer version of a wooden floor or form a two-layer wood base laid along subfloor from unedged boards or concrete. Let us dwell in detail on the technological aspects of the construction various options wooden floors.
Due to their attractive appearance they prefer wooden floors We lay floors with our own hands in a private house on the ground on beams
Beginner developers are interested in how to make floors in a house from scratch using wood. They mean the situation when the walls of the building have already been erected, the roof has been installed, and the floor base is ordinary soil.
So, the construction of a plank floor on a beam base located above the ground is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- Deleted surface layer soil 8-10 cm thick.
- The stones are removed and the surface is ensured to be level.
- A sand-crushed stone mixture is poured onto the soil surface in a layer of 10-15 cm.
- The bedding is leveled, watered and compacted.
- A layer of waterproofing made of sheet roofing material or polyethylene is laid.
- Logs are laid ensuring an interval of 0.6-0.8 m between wooden beams.
- The joists are attached to the foundation walls using steel plates.
It is important to ensure that the joists are horizontal and that they are correctly adjusted to their level during installation. Wooden supports are used for this. A floor made of planed boards is installed on the prepared base.
Wooden floors are secured to joists The following types of installation of the plank base are possible:
- with additional thermal insulation of the floor. The technology for arranging a wooden floor provides for the possibility of laying thermal insulation material into the space between the joists. Mineral wool, expanded clay granules or expanded polystyrene sheets are used as insulation. After insulation, finished floor boards are attached to the joists;
- without insulation wood covering. With this method of installing the floor, no insulation is used. Boards are attached to the upper plane of the support beams, performing the functions of a subfloor. A second layer of finishing boards is laid on the rough base or the finishing coating is installed in the form OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood.
When carrying out work, gaps of 20-25 mm should be provided between the foundation base and the logs to compensate for temperature expansion.
How to make a warm wood floor on support pillars
Having decided to make the floor in a private house themselves, many people prefer wooden structure, formed on support posts. This installation method is used when it is necessary to raise the floor surface, eliminate distortions in the floor base, and also when the distance between the walls is increased. Indeed, in the absence of additional supports, there is a high probability of violation of the integrity of the joists under the influence of loads.
If necessary, raise the floor surface, use support posts When constructing a wooden floor on additional concrete supports, follow the given procedure:
- Remove fertile layer soil and plan the surface.
- Determine the coordinates of the location of the support pillars.
- Extract the soil according to the markings and prepare pits for the support pipes.
- Fill the bottom of the pits with a mixture of sand and crushed stone.
- Level the bedding and compact it thoroughly.
- Assemble formwork of the required height around the perimeter of the pits.
- Place roofing felt inside the formwork for waterproofing.
- Assemble the reinforcement grid and place it in the formwork.
- Pour the concrete solution and compact it.
The concrete hardening process lasts 4 weeks. After the concrete has gained operational strength, dismantle the formwork and lay supports of the required height from bricks or blocks on the concrete surface. Lay roofing material on the surface of the formed pedestals, designed to protect wooden beams from ground moisture.
Floor on support pillars When performing work, the following dimensions must be maintained:
- the interval between supports is 1-1.2 m;
- the distance from the foundation to the outer pedestals is 0.4 m;
- location of the base of the pits from the zero mark at the level of 0.4-0.5 m;
- thickness of crushed stone-sand cushion – 0.1-0.15 m;
- cross-section of columnar supports, amounting to 0.4 * 0.4 m or 0.5 * 0.5 m.
It is important to control the location of the upper plane of the supports at the same level. This will prevent distortions and create a flat floor. Remember that the technology allows the lags to be made in composites with the beams connected on the central support with an overlap of 0.15-0.2 m.
Tips for laying floorboards or plywood on a concrete base
Often concrete or cement strainer. Massive interior items can be installed on a wooden floor formed on a base of concrete or cement. A plank, plywood or tiled floor, built on joists attached to concrete, reliably insulates the floor of the room and has an increased load capacity.
Concrete or cement screed is often used as a floor base Follow the following procedure for constructing a wooden floor using a screed:
- Level the concrete base and seal the cracks.
- Fill with self-leveling mixture if necessary.
- After the mixture has hardened, lay down the waterproofing material.
- Mark the surface of the base for laying the lag.
- Make holes in the concrete and attach pins to secure the planks.
- Drill holes in the beams corresponding to the coordinates of the studs.
- Place the strips on the studs and check that they are level.
- Remove the parts of the studs that protrude beyond the top plane of the beams.
- Fill the space between the joists with sheet or granular insulation.
- Install a finishing covering of boards or plywood to the joists.
Do not forget to provide gaps to compensate for temperature deformations between the end plane of the joist and the walls of the room.
How to make the right floors in a private house - forming a concrete surface
It is advisable to equip buildings whose walls are made of concrete blocks or bricks.
By advance installed beacons Floors are being poured in a private house Let's look at how to make a floor in a private house by pouring a rough screed:
- Remove the layer of turf from the soil, level the surface and compact the soil.
- Fill the surface with a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick and compact it.
- Place plastic film over the compacted crushed stone for waterproofing.
- Lay sheet insulation or pour expanded clay granules.
- Assemble the reinforcement grid and lay it on the insulation.
- Fill the screed and carefully level the surface.
Remember that the pouring of floors in a private house is carried out according to pre-installed beacons, which make it easier to level the screed using the rule.
Dry floor screed under plywood sheets
The technology for forming floors in rooms using dry screed is quite simple. The essence of the method is to use crumbly material as a floor base, evenly distributed over the area of the room.
Are used different kinds bulk materials:
- small expanded clay granules;
- sand concrete mixture on a quartz or silica base.
Enough simple technology forming floors using the dry screed method A distinctive feature of the materials is the absence of shrinkage after leveling. This flooring lasts for a long time and retains heat well in the room.
The procedure for constructing a floor using the dry screed method:
- Lay a layer of waterproofing on the prepared surface.
- Secure the strips that serve as guides.
- Fill the space between the beacons with the dry mixture and level it.
- Compact bulk material floor base.
- Attach plywood boards to the guides using self-tapping screws.
- Seal joints between sheets of plywood.
- Place the finishing coat on the prepared base.
When performing work, check that the slabs are laid horizontally and move away from front door deep into the room.
Let's sum it up
Regardless of the chosen flooring option, work should be carried out in strict accordance with the requirements technological process and use quality materials. It is important to properly waterproof the floor and also insulate it. When deciding on the floor design, give preference to environmentally friendly, warm and durable materials. A properly installed floor will last long time and will not cause any trouble during operation.
Most Russian houses were built during the Soviet era and now need major renovation. You need to start updating old structural elements in a private house by repairing the floor, since it is through this that the water leaks out in winter. most of heat. It is best to start restoring the floor in a private house from scratch. Therefore, first of all, you should dismantle the old structure and buy new materials that will make it possible to create a floor with good thermal insulation.
The old elements in the house should be updated by repairing the floor, because in the cold season it is from it that heat leaves.
How to make the floor yourself in a private house reliable and warm? There are many options. The choice of technology, first of all, depends on how much money people are willing to invest in repairs. Depending on the available budget for repairs, you can determine the materials and method of reconstructing the floor in a private house.
It is preferable to completely redo the floor in a private house, but this will require more Money. If allocated for repairs minimum budget, you can limit yourself to updating the old design.
Floor repair: sequence of actions
You can make a floor from scratch in a private house with your own hands. First you need to remove the old structure, which is usually made in the form of a system of logs and wooden covering in an old private house. If you plan to create a floor covering from ceramic tiles, you need to make a screed. On wooden base tiles cannot be laid. For other types of flooring, for example, linoleum or laminate, you can restore the joist system and insulate the structure.
A new floor in a private house with a screed is created in the following sequence:
- The old structure is dismantled and the base surface is leveled.
- A cushion is constructed from gravel or brick chips and sand.
- A layer of film or roofing felt is laid to prevent moisture from penetrating from the soil.
- The level of the future screed is determined and marks are placed on the walls.
- Insulation is laid (expanded clay, polystyrene foam, mineral wool).
- Reinforcing mesh is laid.
- The base is divided into sections of 2 m using slats. The height of the slats must correspond to the height of the future screed (at least 7 cm).
- Kneaded cement mortar and is poured into each section.
- The solution is leveled using the rule.
- The finished subfloor is covered with film and left to dry for 2 weeks. Concrete should be moistened periodically.
- After the concrete has dried, a leveling screed is made.
- The flooring is being laid.
Concrete base can be used for any type of flooring.
A multilayer cushion of crushed stone and sand serves as a shock absorber in case of subsidence and heaving of the soil.
Scheme of pouring a heated floor with concrete.
In addition, it is a container for all communications that exist in a private home. Pipes and wires are insulated in special boxes and hidden under a layer of sand and crushed stone. The bulk pillow is created as follows:
- A layer of gravel (5 cm) is poured, then it is leveled, moistened and compacted.
- A layer of sand (10 cm) is poured, moistened and compacted.
- A layer of gravel (10 cm) is poured and compacted again.
Concrete flooring is more reliable and durable than wooden flooring on joists. It can serve for decades, maintaining its qualities. Concrete does not contain harmful components, retains its strength, remains dry, and does not deform due to temperature fluctuations.
Wooden structures are susceptible to external factors. Logs can be destroyed by pests. When temperature fluctuations occur, the boards become deformed and cracks appear in floor covering, the boards begin to creak. Mold may form on wood when high humidity. But creating a wooden structure is more economical way make a floor in a private house.
