How to make a stove at home from brick. How to build a simple brick oven with your own hands. Preparation of masonry mortar
Do-it-yourself brickwork for heating your home and cottageEven a novice mason can easily build a brick oven for a house with his own hands. Due to the abundance and accessibility of information, it is enough just to choose a suitable design with the order and detailed description all stages of work, be patient and do the laying carefully and carefully. Let's take a closer look at how to build a brick oven with your own hands.
The furnace starts from the foundation
Even a small brick oven built with your own hands in a country house or in a bathhouse weighs more than a ton. Therefore, you need to place it not on the floor, but on your own foundation.
The upper cut of the foundation coincides with the level of the subfloor. Particular attention must be paid to ensuring that the top plane is perfectly horizontal. This will avoid distortion of the masonry and greatly simplify the work of the stove maker.
Two layers of roofing felt, glassine or durable construction film are laid on the foundation for waterproofing. Placed on top of the waterproofing steel sheet and a layer of heat insulation (so that heat does not escape into the foundation). The bricks of the first layer of masonry are laid on this whole “pie” for the future brick oven with your own hands.
Preparation of mortar for stove masonry
Unlike an ordinary wall, a brick stove is built with your own hands not on cement, but on clay-sand mortar. The compositions of mortars for fireclay and ceramic bricks are very different.
Mortar for fireclay bricks is prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. Minerals are characterized by high fire resistance and can withstand temperatures above 1500 degrees. Dry masonry mixture for preparing fire-resistant masonry mortar is usually purchased in retail chains.
Mortar for ceramic bricks is prepared using ordinary clay, which can be found in your area. Kiln clay is also sold in many construction supermarkets.
For 100 pcs. bricks will require about 40 kg of clay. The proportions of clay and sand are determined by trial batches. This is done as follows:
- The clay is soaked in cold water for a day.
- The batch is divided into 5 parts and a quarter, half, three quarters or an equal weight part of sand is added to each part, respectively.
- All resulting samples are kneaded again until completely homogeneous and allowed to stand for 3-4 hours to remove excess moisture.
We test samples:
- roll them into sausages 1-1.5 cm thick and wrap them around any round object with a diameter of 5 cm.
- If cracks larger than 2 mm have formed on the sample, the solution is unsuitable.
- With a crack depth of up to 2 mm, the solution is suitable for those parts of the furnace where the heating temperature does not exceed 300 degrees.
- If the surface of the sample is not cracked or covered with a fine mesh, this solution is quite suitable for making a stove with your own hands.
Since the cost of sand is much lower than the cost of good oven clay, the essence of the tests comes down to determining the maximum possible proportion of filler in the solution.
DIY brick oven for home video
Brick laying technology
The furnace diagram provided below is distinguished by its simplicity and very high repeatability with a high percentage of successful results. A do-it-yourself brick oven is small in size and is suitable as a heat source for one room or a small garden house. The area allocated for the oven is only 0.4 square meters. m. A very small amount of brick is used for construction, so it weighs very little.
Laying the stove begins from the first row. To ensure perfect horizontal plane under the brick you can pour a thin layer of washed river or mountain sand. The sand will smooth out the difference in the thickness of the bricks, and at the same time will serve as an additional heat insulator.
Basics of choosing building materials
The thickness of the mortar between the bricks should be 2-3 mm. A thicker seam will quickly crumble. For masonry, you need to choose the most even bricks with the same dimensions - since unevenness cannot be compensated for with mortar!
On the second row we install the blower door. To compensate for thermal expansion, it is wrapped around the perimeter with asbestos cord. The door is secured with steel wire fixed in the masonry. To prevent the wire from interfering, grooves are cut into the brick using a grinder for it.
The third row is laid out from fireclay bricks. The grate bars are placed on it after the clay has set.
The fourth row of stoves is laid on edge. If the grate bars do not fit into the free space, the brick must be cut in place, ensuring 3 mm gaps on all sides.
When laying a brick stove, it is important to know!
The rear “kick-out” brick is installed without mortar. It is needed to clean the channels.
On the fifth row, similar to the ash room, a combustion door is installed. The fifth row is laid out flat, and these protruding bricks act as an external heat exchanger.
The seventh - ninth rows are laid out flat again. A cast iron hob is placed on top of the ninth row. Asbestos or fiberglass cord is also used for laying between metal and brick.
Using a cord to seal masonry
Without a sealing cord, smoke will enter the room, and the clay solution will quickly crumble from the thermal expansion of the cast-iron stove.
The last three rows form the installation area light chimney. A metal valve is installed on the penultimate row. It should also be separated from the stone with an asbestos cord.
After the masonry has completely dried, the “knockout” brick is pulled out and removed from the channel construction garbage. To prevent sand from spilling out from under the stove, a plinth is nailed along its perimeter.
Brick stoves for summer cottages video
Choosing pipes for the chimney
The chimney for this stove will be any metal or asbestos-cement pipe with a channel of about 200 square meters. cm, which corresponds to 11.5 cm in diameter for a circular section. The height of the upper edge of the pipe above the level of the combustion chamber grate is at least 4 m. The height of the part protruding above the roof is at least half a meter. If the stove smokes during the first starts, the pipe can be increased by 25-50 cm.
Brick oven finishing
The finished masonry of the stove is whitewashed on the outside with simple chalk whitewash or thin plaster. Fat milk can be added to the water as a binder. And regular blue will help prevent yellowness from appearing.
If you are deciding how to fold a higher level stove - choose one of available options its improvement:
- covering with decorative facade bricks or stove tiles;
- external metal screen;
- decorative jointing or painting the seams with heat-resistant paint.
Laying with bricks and tiles should be planned in advance, since during the construction process the external elements are connected with the masonry. This work requires a lot of experience and is best left to professional stove makers. It is better to install the metal screen not close to it, but at some distance from the body of the furnace. Then it will play the role of an air convector, which will significantly increase the rate of heating of the room.
Bottom line
Knowing how to build a stove in a house with your own hands, you can provide affordable heating to any small room. The experience gained during the first construction will become the basis for further improvement of this sought-after skill.
The construction of complex variants of furnace structures is a painstaking process that requires enormous patience, knowledge, skills and financial costs. Therefore, if you have the funds, it is recommended to use the help of professionals. And those who want to build a stove with their own hands should study the advice of experts on choosing a competent project and high-quality equipment.
Carrying out accurate calculations and strict adherence to the masonry scheme will allow you to obtain a reliable heating unit and, with its further use, will provide protection against fire and poisoning carbon monoxide. Consequently, any stove must meet basic requirements - not smoke, provide heat and guarantee fire safety. For construction beginners, it is better to choose a simple model of the device in order to independently carry out high-quality masonry of the stove.
Construction tools and equipment
For installation work are used:
- acute and rectangular sledgehammers;
- plumb line;
- brackets (mooring);
- combined trowel;
- hammer;
- tampers;
- putty knife;
- level, square and tape measure;
- meter (folding);
- seam joints, markings for openings, templates for channels;
- brick and clay (red);
- cement;
- sand;
- grate;
- doors, stove (cast iron) and valves;
- aluminum and steel fittings (corners and strips).
Procedure
1. First stage.
To ensure the accuracy of the calculations, first lay the masonry according to the finished scheme of the unit, but without using the mixture. The stove is mounted on a foundation that complies with all technical safety rules. To do this, dig a pit (depth 1 m), where sand is poured (layer 11 cm), and concrete is loaded on top. After that, on the hardened surface, following the instructions, place a quadrangle of bricks, which will serve as the base for the furnace. Using a level, check the horizontalness of the masonry. A couple of bricks are moistened with water so that they are easier to bond with the mortar, they are placed on the mixture and pressed down (lightly), and the excess is removed with a spatula and the further construction process continues according to the same principle.
Roofing material (triple layer) is laid on the first level, which performs a waterproofing function. Before performing the 2nd row, attach the oven door, wrapped in wet asbestos cardboard, with special brackets. The third level should consist of fireclay bricks, and a grate is placed above the ash pit. Masonry building material on the 4th tier it occurs on the edge. A chimney is built inside the stove. On the back surface of the device, the masonry is made without mixture so that its edges move slightly out of the main row, which will make it easier to clear debris from the hole for the passage of smoke.
The firebox door is wrapped with asbestos cord and secured to the 5th tier with bricks (temporarily) and wire. The material at this level of masonry, as in the main part of the furnace, is placed flat (along the contour of the previous layer). The edges of the sixth row of the device are hewn, the grate is attached flush, and the bricks are placed on the edge. It is recommended to wipe the chimney with a damp cloth. The bricks (on the 7th level) are laid out flat, and on the back wall of the oven a couple of bricks are attached to the edge. The eighth tier of masonry covers the fire door.
2. Second stage.
Next, work on the stove continues according to the finished pattern until the beginning of the twelfth row. On this tier, a cast iron slab is mounted on the mortar (with a slight offset back), and an asbestos cord runs along the perimeter of the masonry, which is covered with corners on top. The support for the trays is provided by strips of steel, inserted into the walls of the cooking chamber and strengthened from the fourteenth row, through the next two, to the twentieth. This tier contains: a corner, a frame and an exhaust duct made of sheet iron. Before installing the chimney, the gap between its lining and the ceiling is filled with asbestos.
3. Third stage.
After making a heating unit with your own hands, the chimney is cleaned, temporary bricks are removed and painting work begins. The stove surface is dried before plastering and lime whitewash. A mixture of clay, asbestos, sand and cement is used as a coating. First, according to the instructions, a liquid layer of the composition is applied to the outer side of the masonry, and after it dries, a denser layer is applied. Whiten the stove with lime mortar and salt. Drying oil or oil dyes are not suitable for coating masonry, as when heated they emit fumes that are harmful to health.
1. When building a stove with your own hands, you must use durable and properly fired bricks, with a smooth surface and without various damage, since its functioning and duration of use will depend on their quality. The strength of this material is determined independently. To do this, use a hammer to break one brick; if it breaks into large pieces, it means it is suitable for use in the masonry process. In the area where the fire is lit, a fire-resistant type is used that can withstand high heat.
2. The reliability of the furnace structure depends on the optimal ratio of sand and clay in the solution. A composition with a plastic and thick consistency is considered to be of high quality.
3. The thickness of the seams is from 3 to 5 mm.
4. Pre-prepared recesses in the bricks, intended for the installation of a grate, dampers and doors, provide the latter with longer operation. The depth of the grooves must correspond to the thickness of the casting.
5. The bricks on the masonry tiers are placed as close to each other as possible. During the construction of the furnace, the procedure is constantly checked with ready-made circuit devices, which allows you to control its exact compliance.
6. The gap between the masonry and the floor is hidden by installing an iron pre-furnace sheet or plinth. To protect the corners of the structure from possible damage, it is recommended to attach protective devices to the frames (using bolts).
7. It is permissible to begin operation 14 days after completion of installation work. It is recommended to start hardening the unit by burning thin wood chips to prevent it from cracking. After finishing the combustion process, following the operating instructions, the chimney is closed using valves.
Cost of materials and labor
Self-construction of a furnace is much cheaper compared to the services of a qualified worker. The minimum price for a master’s work starts at 25,000 rubles and is negotiated individually when concluding a contract. Payment for work and cost of masonry for different kinds stoves are determined taking into account their volume, design features and location in the house. The purchase price of building material and its quantity required for the construction of the selected type of structure, design and color scheme are the main indicators in determining the final payment. Important role Types of cladding also play a role. Finishing with tiles costs 1200–2500 rubles per 1 m2 (excluding the amount for masonry equipment).
Average cost of construction supplies:
The cost of bricks varies from 20 to 150 rubles per 1 piece. There is also a difference in prices when purchasing castings and other materials for masonry. If the firebox door Russian production costs 400 rubles, then imported - 4,000. One bag of ready-made mixture for building a stove (consumption for 35 bricks) - 400. The estimated price of masonry is determined only after careful study future design, taking all measurements.
During the construction of the stove, it may be necessary to purchase additional equipment. The cost calculation also takes into account the cost of delivery and unloading of masonry materials, which is assigned by carriers.
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There are a large number of different stoves that can be used both for heating and for heating the house and cooking. Some are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and for a particular room the desired option is selected that will be most effective for a given area. In addition, any of the furnaces must be installed with mandatory consideration of the requirements developed by specialists in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.
In the modern information space, brick ovens for the home, drawings with instructions can always be found on the Internet. However, it must be remembered that building this structure yourself is quite difficult, since each stove maker has his own achievements and professional secrets, which are acquired only with work experience.
Criteria for choosing a brick kiln
If you nevertheless decide to carry out such work yourself, then you need to decide on the model - with knowledge of the matter, paying attention not only to appearance and the design of the stove, but also on its heating capabilities in relation to the room that it will have to heat.
When choosing a stove by size, you need to take into account that its side walls give off more heat than the front and back. This factor must be taken into account when planning to install the stove in a particular location.
Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by their form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a protrusion in the form of a couch or stove, and others.
Stoves can only be used for heating living rooms and be installed, for example, between the living room and the bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a dividing wall between the living quarters and the kitchen.
For rooms with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, they will take up too much useful space that could be used for other needs.
Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building, also plays a big role.
Table for choosing a stove depending on the area to be heated and the location of the rooms:
| Room area, m² | Furnace surface, m² | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Not corner room, inside the house | Room with one outside corner | Room with two external corners | Hallway | |
| 8 | 1.25 | 1.95 | 2.1 | 3.4 |
| 10 | 1.5 | 2.4 | 2.6 | 4.5 |
| 15 | 2.3 | 3.4 | 3.9 | 6 |
| 20 | 3.2 | 4.2 | 4.6 | - |
| 25 | 4.6 | 6.9 | 7.8 | - |
All these criteria must be determined in advance, and, based on them, a choice should be made in favor of one or another model.
Types of brick stoves
As mentioned above, the design of stoves can be different - both very difficult to construct and quite simple. The most famous models are “Dutch”, “Swedish”, “Russian”. Modifications named after their designers are widely popular. Thus, stoves made by Bykov, Podgorodnikov, Kuznetsov and other masters are very common.
- Exist heating stoves, which do not have a hob and other elements, but consist only of walls in which smoke exhaust channels, fireboxes, blower and cleaning chambers pass.
- Heating and cooking stoves have in their design a stove for cooking, sometimes an oven, a water heating tank and a drying chamber.
- Another type of heating structure is a fireplace stove, which has two fireboxes in its design - a fireplace and a stove. This model can be used by heating only one of the fireboxes or both at the same time.
- There are also stoves that include the entire complex necessary for human life both in summer and in winter period. They are often equipped with a heated couch, which can serve as the basis for a bed.
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Prices for finished heating stoves
heating stoves
Choosing a place to install the stove
It is also important to provide the correct location for installing the stove. The optimal place is the crossroads of the walls of the house. If he doesn't have large area, then such a stove can heat all rooms at the same time. It is advisable that the structure be located close to the entrance to the building, since the heat emanating from it will create a barrier to the cold air coming from the front door. In addition, if the firebox door opens into the hallway, then it is easier to deliver fuel to it without carrying it through the entire house.
When choosing a location, you need to take into account several more factors that are important for the operation of the furnace:
- The building must be installed in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - this must be taken into account for unimpeded monitoring of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the chambers.
- When constructing a furnace, it is necessary to provide for it separate foundation, not connected to the base of the house.
- The chimney pipe must pass between the beams of the attic floor and not bump into them when it is lifted - this is provided for when building a house, and if the stove is being erected in a finished building, then before laying the foundation for it.
- For fire safety purposes, there must be a heat-resistant flooring made of metal sheet or ceramic tiles on the floor in front of the fire door.
Basic design of a brick kiln
To know how each of the furnace elements works and what it is intended for, you need to consider the basic design of the heating structure:
- The fuel chamber is designed for loading and burning fuel. It is separated from the ash chamber by a grate and connected to internal channels through which smoke and hot gases follow through the entire furnace, redirected into the chimney pipe.
- The ash chamber provides a controlled air supply to the firebox and is a collector of ash from burnt fuel, and therefore requires periodic cleaning.
- An oven, a hob and a tank for heating water - these elements are built into heating and cooking stoves.
- Cleaning chambers are necessary because soot collects in them, which crumbles from the walls of the chimney channels passing inside the furnace. They are used to periodically clean the oven to maintain normal draft.
- The flue ducts running inside the stove may have different configurations in different models. Hot gaseous combustion products, passing through them, heat the walls of the furnace, which release heat into the room.
- The channels direct smoke and combustion products into a chimney located at the very top of the stove and then exiting to the outside of the building.
One of the most important conditions for efficient operation of the furnace is good traction, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the order scheme and periodic cleaning of the structure during operation. In addition, it is necessary to maintain the required height of the chimney pipe and its correct location on the roof.
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Materials for building a stove
An important issue for the long-term functioning of the stove is the choice of high-quality materials for its masonry, so you should not skimp on them. To build a building you will need:
- Red fire brick, the quantity of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading must be carried out extremely carefully.
- Fireclay brick is used to lay the combustion chamber in direct contact with the fire. It will require from 40 to 200 pieces, but exact amount can be found in the diagram of the selected model. This type of brick can withstand temperatures of 1450–1500°; it retains heat for a long time, gradually releasing it to the walls of the furnace.
- Raising the stove cannot be done without brick laying mortar, which is made on the basis of clay. Stove makers advise using the Borovichevsky mortar composition - it is quite plastic during the laying process and fireproof during operation.
- Cast iron elements are doors for the firebox, ash pan and cleaning chambers, valves and grate. If the heating and cooking stove is raised, then one or more two-burner stove, oven and water heating tank provided by the design.
- Steel wire for securing cast iron elements in masonry.
- Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal parts.
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Now, having become acquainted with some of the nuances of building a stove, you can consider several models that should be available for laying even for beginners.
Heating stove V. Bykov
This stove is intended for heating purposes only as it does not have a stove or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses that do not have large area, since it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is capable of heating even three rooms.
The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, with its height without pipe being 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.
The stove is quite simple to install, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, which is why the designer himself called it a “thick warm wall.” The heat transfer from the entire building is 2400 kcal/h, but at the same time side walls accounts for 920 kcal/h, and the front and rear parts of it are only 280 kcal/h. The cross-section of the smoke exhaust duct is 130 × 260 mm.
Due to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, with its front part opening into a third, for example, into the hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.
The entire design of this model is divided into two sections - the upper gas exhaust and the lower combustion chamber. There are two channels in the lower part - ascending and descending. They help heat the combustion part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the entire structure, preventing it from overheating.
The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are ⅔ covered with bricks laid horizontally in the masonry. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The duct walls not only direct the heated air in the desired direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of the oven. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the release of warm air into the pipe.
For this stove model you will need the following materials:
- Red fire brick - 407 pcs.
- White fireclay brick SHA -8 — 197 pcs.
- Fire door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
- Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
- Grate 250×252 mm - 1 pc.
- Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 1 pc.
- Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, size 500 × 700 mm - 1 piece; ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.
Prices for ready-made fireboxes for brick kilns
Firebox for brick kilns
Order of the Bykov furnace
The furnace is laid on a foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the furnace base by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation should be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before starting masonry, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing - roofing felt.
| Order | Description of work |
|---|---|
 | This diagram shows two zero rows, which are located below the finished floor level. Each row will require 22 red bricks. |
 | Masonry located on the same level as the finished floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is covered with heat-resistant ceramic tiles. |
 | 1st row - the blower chamber is formed. Hewn bricks are installed at the entrance to it, which facilitates the removal of combustion waste. To lay this row you need 21 bricks. |
 | Row 2 - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. To lay this row you will need 20 bricks. |
 | Row 3 - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the door lugs is embedded in the masonry seams. For a row you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are laid near the installed door. |
 | 4th row - the front part of the blower chamber is covered with bricks along with the installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the rotary well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks. |
 | Row 5 - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the ash chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which combustion waste will slide into the ash-blower chamber through a grate installed on the same row. There must be a gap of 5 mm between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. You will need 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks. |
 | Row 6 - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the smoke exhaust well continues to be laid out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used. |
 | Row 7 - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of the masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. This row uses 11 whole, 2 ½ and 4 cut obliquely across the entire width of fireclay bricks. |
 | The 8th row is laid according to the pattern, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. It will take 15 bricks per row. |
 | Row 9 - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the stove is placed according to the diagram. |
 | Row 10 - bricks are laid according to the pattern, observing their direction. This row requires 16 bricks. |
 | Row 11 - the brick on the back wall of the firebox and at the entrance to the descending channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks. |
 | Row 12 - the descending smoke exhaust duct and the fuel chamber are being combined. For a row you need 13 whole and 2 ½ fireclay bricks. |
 | The 13th row is laid according to the presented diagram, and it uses 10 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks. |
 | The 14th row is also laid according to the scheme; you will need 10 whole and 6 ¾ bricks. |
 | Row 15 - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾. |
 | Row 16 - bricks completely block the combined downward channel and the fuel chamber. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the gas-air upper part and the lower fuel part. For a row, 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used. |
 | The 17th row is laid out from red brick. A hole in the ascending channel is left in it, and bricks cut diagonally are mounted along its edges. 14 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used. |
 | Row 18 - a horizontal furnace channel is formed; it is the basis for the installation of five channels that will run vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 ¾ bricks. |
 | Row 19 - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the structure, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower combustion part of the furnace. The bricks forming this channel must be cut diagonally from below. 11 whole and 4 ¾ bricks are used. |
 | Row 20 - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal draft. A row uses 7 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks. |
 | Row 21 - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. The bricks laid at the base of the walls separating the channels are cramped from below, as in previous cases. For a row you will need 11 whole, 5 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks. |
 | The 22nd row is placed according to the pattern, observing the formation of channels. For a row you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces. |
 | The 23rd row is also laid according to the scheme and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks. |
 | Row 24 - on this row the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall is cut diagonally from the two upper sides. For a row you will need 9 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two. |
 | Row 25 - this is where the laying of the wall between the second and third vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry you will need 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 5 ½ bricks. |
 | Row 26 - completion of the wall laying between the third and fourth vertical channels. The top brick of the wall is also trimmed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks. |
 | Row 27 - the work follows the pattern, and it requires 9 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks. |
 | Row 28 - it uses bricks made ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called the cap. For a row, 4 whole pieces are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely along the entire thickness. |
 | Row 29 - in it the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. To lay it you will need 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2 - ½ bricks. |
 | Row 30 is also laid out solid, according to the pattern, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 ¾ bricks. |
 | 31 rows are laid out according to the pattern and 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are prepared for it. |
 | Row 32 - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out; it will require 5 whole bricks. |
Stove-fireplace "Swedish" A. Ryazankina
The Swedish type heating and cooking stove is quite popular due to its efficiency. Its design promotes rapid heating of rooms and allows you not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.
Appearance of the “Swedish” Ryazankin
Such a stove is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of the house, positioning it in such a way that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swedish designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both spacious and small buildings, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of the living rooms.
This stove model is heated with wood, has dimensions of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height excluding the pipe. In this case, it is also necessary to provide that the fireplace portal will protrude beyond the building by 130 mm. The foundation must be more sizes the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Shvedka reaches 3000 kcal/hour.
To build this stove model, you will need the following materials:
- Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
- Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
- Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
- Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm - 8 pcs.
- Oven 450×360×300 mm – 1 pc.
- Two-burner cast iron stove 410×710 mm - 1 pc.
- Grate 200×300 mm – 1 pc.
- Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
- Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm – 2 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×920 mm – 3 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×530 mm – 2 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×480 mm – 2 pcs.
- A fireplace grate can be made independently from reinforcing bars.
- Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500×700 mm - 1 pc.
- Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.
Furnace laying
The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all the cast iron elements of the fireplace stove, and a description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.
Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire stove first dry, that is, without mortar, adhering to the diagram and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of a stove maker.
Another trick of experienced craftsmen is to pre-fit and lay each of the rows without mortar during the work process. Any row is first laid out, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or trimmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.
This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be completed much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.
When doing masonry, you need to keep at hand not only a diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the stove. It will also help - it will allow you to imagine all the channels passing inside and the design of the fireboxes.
So, the laying is done as follows:
Order - from 1st to 6th row
- The first, continuous row of the stove is laid on onlaid to ready roofing felt foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first you should mark the roofing material sheet using a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the stove base, observing the dimensions. Then, based on the diagram and observing the configuration of the brick laying, the first row is assembled dry, and then the laying is done with mortar.
- 2nd row. It contains metal elements consisting of segments of reinforcement, onto which the fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element will be completely installed. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme.
- 3rd row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are installed, pre-wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with pieces of asbestos. To fix the doors in place, wire is used, which is threaded into special loops-ears of the cast-iron frame. Next, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is secured with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until final fastening, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.
- 4 row. The work proceeds according to the scheme, but the row is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be placed perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
- It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, just like all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which is wrapped or lined with asbestos to prevent premature burnout.
- 6th row. On this row, a combustion door is installed, wrapped in asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.
- 7th row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme; a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
- Rows 8 and 9 are laid out according to the diagram presented.
- 10 row. The front wall of the stove is strengthened, since a cast iron hob will be installed later in this part of the building. A steel corner is secured to the wall using two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid in place of the slab installation, and the slab itself is installed. The door of another cleaning chamber is fixed in the same row.
- Rows 11 and 12 are laid out according to the pattern without installation metal elements. On the twelfth row, the cleaning chamber door is closed.
Order - from 13 to 24 row
- From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed pattern, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
- 16th row. The construction of the walls of the chamber located above the hob, which is covered with metal strips, is completed. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks in the next row.
- Rows 17 and 18 are laid according to the pattern.
- Row 19 At this stage, two more cleaning chambers are installed, which are secured in the same way as the previous ones.
- Rows 20 and 21 are placed according to the pattern.
- 22 row. Two more cleaning chamber doors are being installed.
- 23 row. The masonry proceeds according to the scheme.
- 24 row. The chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the solution.
- 25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
- 26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
- From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the pattern.
- 31 row. At this stage, the third and final chimney valve is installed.
- 32-33 rows. In this area of the structure there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.
When laying a pipe through the attic floor, it is necessary to isolate flammable construction materials from it. To do this, a metal box with sides with a height greater than the thickness of the ceiling by 100 ÷ 120 mm is installed around the chimney. This “difference” remains in the attic.
If the oven walls are not covered decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.
The Swedish stove can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project is presented in the video.
Video: brick “Swedish” with a bed
And at the end of the article - one more good advice. Before you decide to self-construction furnaces, without having sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended that you first practice the usual laying of bricks with mortar. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance.
Evgeniy AfanasyevChief Editor
Author of the publication 27.08.2015
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Since ancient times, the construction of stoves for the home has been entrusted to stove makers who have the appropriate skills and a desire to improve their skills. High-quality masonry of a heating structure can be considered a certain type of art, although building a stove with your own hands is also possible.
At the same time, it should be noted that building stoves with your own hands is now quite possible. But to do this, you should carefully study the recommendations of professionals. You will need to select the design of the heating unit and quality materials. A home craftsman who has built a stove with his own hands will have the opportunity to admire his creation for many years.
The construction of a furnace with your own hands begins with the choice of its design solution. Not all brick heating units are the same - they differ in parameters and functionality.
According to the classification, the following types of brick kilns are distinguished:
- heating structures;
- heating and cooking;
- special units.
Selection of heating design
When choosing the type of stove, owners of private houses and summer cottages first of all take into account their own material capabilities. Of course, laying a brick heating structure will cost much more than assembling a metal device. Despite the difference in price, most homeowners nevertheless prefer stoves made of brick.Building a stove with your own hands: important nuances
First of all, before building a stove in the house, you need to make a foundation for it. For the heating structure, a monolithic foundation is made of brick. Any concrete can be used for it, but its grade cannot be lower than 300. The required laying depth must be observed, which should be below the soil freezing level.
The masonry of the stoves is made from solid brick using clay mortar. The firebox requires fireclay bricks. The thickness of the seam must be observed. It should not exceed 5 millimeters, but it is better if it is only 3 millimeters. It is not difficult to make masonry mortar yourself. For it, take quartz sand and mix it with clay in a ratio of 4:1. You will also need a sieve with cells up to 5 millimeters. Before preparing the mixture, the sand is sifted.
The technology for laying fireclay bricks is similar to that followed when using conventional ones. For this you will need fireclay clay. If we build a stove with our own hands, many questions arise regarding the installation of doors, stoves, valves and other metal elements. When arranging them, you must comply with the parameters of expansion joints - they must be at least 5 millimeters.
All fittings used must be securely fastened. The head above the roof (chimney) is erected using ordinary sand-cement mortar.
A variety of stove accessories are sold in specialized shopping centers and construction markets. It can differ in cost several times depending on who produced it. Foreign products are more expensive than domestic products, but they have a more attractive appearance. Nowadays, a door with heat-resistant glass is most often installed.
Features of the furnace device
The traditional design of a classic brick oven provides the fastest heating in the part intended for cooking, while the walls warm up more slowly (read also: " "). Many consumers are not satisfied with this feature. To solve this problem, an afterburning system is provided. As a result, there is no point in fully loading the oven for cooking, but you can only get by with the secondary firebox.In this situation, the nozzle that supplies air for afterburning the fuel acts as a blower. In this case, combustion products are removed by adjusting the gate. The chimney is equipped using an iron or asbestos-cement pipe.
The chimney pipe is equipped with thermal insulation elements only when it passes indoors. The outside is insulated with basalt wool, and the top is covered with foil to prevent condensation from settling on the internal surfaces. The junction of the chimney brick with the metal exhaust pipe is caulked with asbestos cord.
When the construction of a heating system brick construction happens in country house, it is not always advisable to equip a shield with wells and channels, as should be done when constructing a Dutch oven (in more detail: ""). To ensure good traction, the height of the pipe must be at least 3 meters. In summer, a side firebox will be sufficient to operate the stove. When starting to cook, you need to load about three kilograms of fuel - peat briquettes or small logs. Read also: "".
Tips from master stove makers on how to build a stove correctly
- A good solution to increase the heat transfer area would be to install a steel pipe to which metal radiators are welded. For this purpose, you can also use any iron products.
- To build a stove you need to use solid ceramic brick. Products made of dinas, resistant to high operating temperatures, should be used when assembling the firebox. The fact is that it transfers heat worse compared to red stove bricks - it takes longer to warm up at a higher cost - almost 2 times (read also: " ").
- Before building a stove in the house, the brick must be placed in water for about 4 hours. When laying, bricks should be placed as accurately as possible, leveling with a mallet. If they are already laid, they cannot be moved from their place. Stove makers usually spread the solution with their hands, without using a trowel. If necessary, use a mason's hammer to trim bricks; you also need to have a grinder.
Materials and tools
To build a furnace, you will need the following materials and tools:- bricks;
- red clay and quartz sand;
- cement;
- stove fittings;
- corner, plumb line, level;
- Bulgarian;
- Master OK;
- workwear.
Some tips for building a stove with your own hands in the video:
Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, given the special atmosphere and homely warmth that a simple brick stove, even made by your own hands, can create. It is often installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, in an attempt to obtain a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick stoves and share the secrets of the stove craft.
Features and secrets of the popularity of brick kilns
A brick stove is not only a functional heating device, but also stylish element interior
There is probably no person who would not like a live fireplace with crackling wood and especially comfortable warmth. But a good old brick oven can please you not only with this, but also with its ability to create the most conducive to health atmosphere. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick releases water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when cooled.
The stove seems to “breathe”, thanks to which the optimal humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes narrower at a temperature of 18–19 °C, whereas when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 °C. In addition, being made from clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that when operating a heating device you do not have to worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.
- Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of the arrangement of the combustion and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary oven of this type has:
- a foundation that serves as the base of the heating device and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
- a grate that allows for lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to regulate the intensity of fuel combustion;
- ash chamber, which makes cleaning the oven easier;
- a chimney that creates the necessary draft and releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere.
Design of a channel-type brick kiln
In addition to their main purpose, wood heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional resting place. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, grill or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to the visual and image component.
The advantages of brick kilns include:
- fast surface heating;
- possibility of using several types of fuel;
- low operating costs;
- eliminates the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heating device;
- especially soft, comfortable warmth;
- the air in the room is not dehydrated;
- wide possibilities in terms of interior decoration.
The units in question also have disadvantages. The most significant of them is the potential danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, which occurs if used incorrectly. Another one is large dimensions and weight. That's probably all. As you can see, this type of equipment has complete advantages and the almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, incidentally, determines its high popularity.
Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design
All existing models of brick kilns can be divided into several types:
- heating devices;
- cooking units;
- combination ovens;
Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that can be folded yourself. In order not to consider the entire variety of stationary units, we will focus on the most popular options:
- Dutch ovens. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in slow combustion or smoldering mode, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the “Dutch” ones rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly due to their low cost and ease of construction.
The classic “Dutch” is an extremely compact structure
- Swedish wood stoves have a chamber-channel arrangement, which allows increasing efficiency to 50%. Just like the “Dutch” ones, the “Swedish” ones take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of heat generators of this type.
A Swedish oven will delight its owner high efficiency and functionality
- have a unique layout, thanks to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the operating features. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the stove. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that will increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.
A Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but will require a lot of space for installation
- Kuznetsov bell furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that promotes the most complete combustion of fuel and maximum heat transfer. A special feature of “blacksmiths” is their extremely clean exhaust and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on maintaining the heating device. As for the disadvantages, these include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the last drawback is compensated by the fact that the construction of a “hood” will require significantly less bricks than for any other furnace.
Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and an oven
You will find step-by-step instructions for laying a Kuznetsov stove with orders in our next article:.
Having considered everything possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heating device that can satisfy all the requirements placed on it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first does not present any difficulties, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you in more detail how to choose a stove according to the type of structure.
- A house intended for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then best option, than “Swedish” or “cap” cannot be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily complemented by other elements - a hob, water circuit, oven, drying niches or a stove bench. If functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a good option is a “Dutch oven” that heats several adjacent rooms.
- Country house "weekend" or dacha. Since these buildings require irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heating device, equipped with a hob. The ideal option is fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since with their help you can heat the room in the shortest possible time. This advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the indoor temperature drops to sub-zero temperatures.
- A stove in a country house with water or another type of heating. In this case, the heating device serves to create a special atmosphere. If the space of the room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or unit with a firebox, fireplace and stove bench.
- Heating device for a bath. For this case, a simple stove-heater is suitable, into which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bathhouse is attached to the house, then instead of a tank you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
- Stoves for open areas. Most often, such heating devices are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.
A barbecue oven will decorate the area and fill the relaxation area with functionality.
Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heating device to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.
Calculation of basic parameters
Before choosing a working design for a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat output of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power removed from one square meter of the surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take the value 0.5 kW/sq. m, and if intensive heating is necessary, which occurs during severe cold weather - up to 0.76 kW/sq. m.
When determining the thermal power of a furnace, only those surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in “Dutch” systems, sections of walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the gas duct, are not excluded from the calculations.
In principle, these values are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.
Drawings and diagrams of brick kilns
Bath stove 
Stove-fireplace Classic "Dutch" Bell stove
Firebox
The dimensions of the firebox are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel fill. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2–3 times larger than the obtained value, which will allow the stove to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the combustion chamber, it is necessary to take into account that the maximum filling should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the firebox and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the stove. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various sizes.
Calculation table for the main elements of a brick kiln
Ash pan
The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove is heated with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.
Chimney
When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP
Unlike gas heating equipment, wood stoves do not require much draft, so best shape the smoke channel will be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross-section of the blower should not exceed the area of its flue, and all values are adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since accurate design requires operating with a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. However, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular section, height from 4 to 12 m) you can use average values for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:
- Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
- 5 – 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
- From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
- From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
- 5 – 14 kW - 200x270 mm.
Recommended sizes are minimum. And yet there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will descend into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. Counterflow, or “swish” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only a deterioration in performance, but also more serious problems.
To calculate the amount of material required, it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.
Calculation of the number of bricks
You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be extended with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often such events are carried out when the aerodynamics of the terrain have changed. For example, after trees grow or taller buildings are erected in the neighborhood.
Preparatory activities
Preparation for construction includes several stages:
- selection of tools and necessary materials;
- determining the optimal location for installing the heating device;
- arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
- manufacturing kiln brick(if necessary) and preparation of masonry mortar.
Required materials and tools
Stovemaker tools
To lay a brick oven you will need:
- Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
- Broom for mopping laid rows.
- Angle, plumb line and level to control the geometric parameters of the masonry.
- Pliers.
- Rubber hammer (mallet).
- Trowel (trowel).
- Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
- Lead scriber.
- Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
- Joining.
- Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
- Sieve.
- Grinder (angle grinder) with a stone circle.
Despite the fact that brick kilns differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains virtually unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:
- Brick - red, silicate, fireproof and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
- Construction mixture for laying stoves. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
- Furnace casting set - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
- Grate.
- Wire for securing cast iron castings.
- Asbestos or basalt cord.
- Steel strips and angles for arranging ceilings and niches.
- Heat-resistant boards for protective thermal insulation.
Fireclay brick ШБ №22
Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight that requires a solid foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for building the foundation:
- Sand.
- Crushed stone.
- Reinforcement mesh.
- Boards and nails for formwork construction.
- Cement.
- Waterproofing.
In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for this work.
Features of choosing a place to install a heating device
Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available space in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is placed in the center of the house, with the firebox and hob oriented towards the kitchen, and the other edges towards the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows what benefits it provides right choice places.
The right choice of location can solve the problem of heating all rooms of a country house
When installing a heating device, you should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum permissible distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances that are determined by the current SNiP:
- from a brick chimney to wooden elements The ceiling or roof must have at least 130 mm of free space. If an uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe is used, the gap is increased to 250 mm;
- a gap of at least 100 mm is left between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the stove;
- the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. WITH protective screen the minimum gap is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
- a gap of at least 0.35 m should be left from the ceiling to the stove ceiling. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.
Construction of the foundation
It is best if the base of the brick kiln is formed simultaneously with the general building foundation. In this case, both structures are performed separately, otherwise subsidence of the building walls will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, or even damage to the heating device. If the furnace will be built in finished house, then the first thing people pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the roof slab elements, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they begin marking and building the foundation.
Considering the weight of the stove, a solid foundation must be used.
If the house has wooden floors, then they are cut out at the place where the stove is installed, 10–15 cm away from the outer contour. After this, a pit is dug, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For middle zone It is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After this, its bottom is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10–15 cm thick is poured, which is also thoroughly compacted. After this, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the sheathing boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement laitance through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with plastic film. At a distance of 5–10 cm from the floor, a reinforcing mesh is installed, for which both metal rods driven into the bottom of the pit and fragments of brick are used.
The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete
By mixing cement M-400, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the surface of the foundation is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the stove base should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours necessary for the solution to pre-set, the structure is covered with film and left for several weeks until completely dry.
Before laying bricks, the foundation must be waterproofed using roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.
Preparation of the solution
Now that ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves can be found in the retail chain, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All you need to do is mix the ingredients with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. However, you can make masonry mortar yourself - this will allow you to save additional money. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.
Cook with your own hands mortar can be made from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the latter component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment by mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After this, balls with a diameter of 5–6 cm are rolled from the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition is considered to be one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.
There are several ways to check the quality of clay
Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower a spatula into the prepared mixture. The adhesion of the solution to less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is necessary to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates that the mixture is greasy, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.
The clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If you want to increase its fat content, then use the method of extraction, which consists of settling clay mortar and removal of its middle part.
How to properly build a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work
Deciding on the type of heating device, making preliminary calculations and preparing everything to start construction is only half the battle. In order to correctly fold the stove, you need to find patterns for laying out the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared several of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can search ready-made solutions on the Internet or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.
Stove ordering diagrams in the photo
Orders of the Swedish stove Orders of the “Dutch” Orders of the Russian oven 
Procedures for heating and cooking furnace 
Orders of a stove for a bath 
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell furnace
Today we propose to build a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite its apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove makers and give the necessary recommendations during the construction process.
Arrangements of an oven with a hob and niches for drying
In the presented arrangement diagram you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish oven. We recommend that you first lay out the structure dry, without using mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Next, the work is done in this order:
- Up to floor level, bricks are laid out on cement-sand mortar completely. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry by level and plumb. How smooth and stable the oven will be depends on the careful execution of the work.
- The first row of the furnace body begins to form the ash chamber.
Installing a blower door
- Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in the masonry seams. To prevent the door from moving and tipping over, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
- In the fourth row, two channels are installed to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.
The grate is not secured in any way other than by very precise placement
- A grate is installed in the fifth row. The recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row will help to correctly lay the cast iron. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is lined exclusively with refractory bricks.
In the oven, the grate is laid on a refractory brick
- Before laying the sixth row, a fire door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, the part is supported from the outside with a metal corner or a wooden strip.
Installation of the combustion door
- Starting from the seventh row, the furnace flues begin to be equipped. Vertical walls The fireboxes are laid out with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.
To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber by a layer of basalt cardboard.
Laying vertical channels
- Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected from the bricks that will cover the fire door. Thanks to this, the structure will look smooth and aesthetically pleasing. Here the cast iron part is finally fastened, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.
To ensure an accurate fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place
- In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.
The firebox is separated from the external walls with basalt cardboard or other fire-resistant material
- From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
- Before covering the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front part of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
- The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
- In the 20th row, a horizontal channel and a door are installed to remove soot and deposits, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
- The door is covered with masonry of the 22nd row.
- On the 23rd row, the horizontal flue is blocked. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
- Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
- From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the stove niche is blocked.
- In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical flues. To do this, first install their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.
Installation of furnace valves
- From the 31st to the 35th row, lay out the transition section of the chimney.
- From the 36th to the 38th row a fluff is constructed.
In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is insulated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this purpose, both mineral insulation and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.
You can make this beauty with your own hands
Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register
Previously, we looked at how oven doors are mounted and secured. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.
Installation features oven
If the design of the oven provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes as large a surface area as possible. Most often, these conditions correspond to the transition area from the furnace to the heat exchanger. Previously, they are placed on the side walls of the horizontal flue. metal corners, and the points of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed using basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.
A water heating boiler or liquid heat exchange register is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place may be in the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the flue, or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use the hob and water heater at the same time, then it top part performed in the form of transversely located metal pipes, which are welded into side containers made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5–15 mm is left between the water heating boiler and the walls of the firebox. Of course, it is necessary to provide for how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For duct and chamber stoves this can be done through the firebox opening, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.
Features of operating and cleaning the oven
You cannot immediately test the oven at maximum settings; you must wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heating device in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one or two weeks. If there is a need to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.
After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5–7 days 2–3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. Complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensation on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after this, the stove is not heated “to the fullest.” Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.
If the unit is heated exclusively with wood, then it is not necessary to clean it of ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is cleared of ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning internal channels and chimney from soot, then this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For these purposes, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After this, the soot is scooped out of the flues with a metal scoop and poker.
The correct choice of fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is considered to be hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen leave virtually no soot. By the way, experienced stove makers recommend using aspen logs for every tenth fire, claiming that this helps remove soot from the ducts and chimney.
It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such “helpful” tips), naphthalene, etc. It is unlikely that a good effect can be achieved from this, but it will benefit nearby buildings and your own health. cause significant damage.
It is often difficult to light a stove after a long period of cooling, for example, in a cottage or country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming gas plugs that are difficult to remove. A proven method will help you regain cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, place it close to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the functionality of the heating device.
You will also find this material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick stoves useful:.
Video: Compact brick oven of original design
A brick oven can create a special atmosphere in a room. warm atmosphere, will become the highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Folding the unit is not only possible experienced craftsmen, but also for green beginners. Of course, you have to be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heating device will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe work for many years of operation.
Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.
