How to strengthen a half-brick garden house. Features of half-brick brickwork. Brickwork tools
Half-brick walls - 125 mm for a residential building in Omsk or the region - are too small.
Moisture vapor that gets behind the wall cladding plasterboard sheets, will erode due to the presence of an air gap. However, on the surface of cold stone walls In the autumn-spring period, moisture condensation may occur. This phenomenon can be observed indoors, for example country house, which was not heated during this period, and then the owners came for the weekend and heated it. Moisture condensation forms on the surface of walls shaded by some pieces of furniture because there is an obstacle in the path of heat rays. Then, of course, the wall will dry out, but the dampness will do its job.
So it is in your case. Blocking the brick wall interior decoration, You have thereby shifted the dew point in the wall structure to inner side. Therefore, condensation will form behind the lined surface when the furnace is fired, and if there is insufficient air exchange, dampness will be provided to the walls.
To eliminate the cause of dampness formation, you should arrange insulation brick walls With outside
. For insulation of walls of a residential building Various thermal insulation materials can be used. Results of calculating the thickness of the thermal insulation layer in the structure outer wall residential building are given in Table 1. However, if foam or polyethylene-based materials are used to insulate the walls, then insulation should be applied around window and doorways fulfill non-flammable materials on a mineral wool basis, the width of the framing strips is 200-300 mm.
Table 1.
| Item No. | Name of insulation |
Layer thickness |
Layer thickness existing structure, mm |
||
|
drywall |
brickwork |
||||
| 1 | Rockwool "LAIT BUTTS" | ||||
| 2 | Rockwool "VENTI BUTTS" | ||||
| 3 | "URSA P-30" | ||||
| 4 | "URSA XPS N-III-I" | ||||
| 5 | PSB-S 25 T (17.1-25.0 kg/m 3) | ||||
| 6 | PSB-S 35 (25.1-29.0 kg/m 3) | ||||
| 7 | "EXTRAPEN 35" | ||||
| 8 | "TEPLEX 35 ECONOMY" | ||||
| 9 | "PENOPLEX" type 35 or 31 | ||||
| 10 | "PENOPLEX" type 45 | ||||
Notes. 1. The calculation was carried out provided that:
- Omsk city;
- estimated indoor air temperature +20ºC.
3. This calculation is advisory in nature. An official calculation can be made by an organization licensed to design building structures.
Added: 05/31/2012 09:43
Discussion of the issue on the forum:
Eat country house made of brick, the thickness of the walls is half a brick. I realized that it’s not a good idea to insulate it from the inside, while I plan to sheathe the walls with plasterboard on beams from the inside, and eventually do external insulation. The question is: there will be air between the drywall and the wall, and mold and dampness will not appear there, as with internal insulation. We live in Siberia and the heating is still on.
The easiest to perform is half-brick masonry. It is often used to create interior partitions from bricks, cladding buildings, constructing fences for garden beds, etc. Walls laid out in this way cannot be load-bearing structures, however, they are strong enough to hang some decorative items or furniture on them. Half-brick masonry will save resources during the construction of secondary partitions, while the consumption of brick and mortar is reduced by at least 2 times. In addition, the operating time is reduced, which saves not only materials, but also effort and time. How such brickwork is carried out, what is required for this and where it is advantageous to use it will be discussed below.
Description, application
Often, when building simple structures that will not bear serious mechanical loads, people try to save money. Therefore, when construction work cheap ones are often used Construction Materials(for example, drywall), which do not always have required characteristics. Good decision for the construction of simple structures there will be construction brickwork half a brick. At the same time, in the case of indoor construction, the floor does not require reinforcement - its strength is often sufficient to withstand the mass of half-brick masonry.
First similar type masonry appeared around 7000 BC. Archaeologists have discovered objects that belong to the ancient Indian culture in India and Pakistan.
Over the past time, masonry technology has remained virtually unchanged. It is carried out in such a way that the visible part will consist only of the tray parts of the brick. The laying principle is quite simple - the bricks are laid one row at a time on a layer of mortar. In this case, the masonry is carried out in a checkerboard pattern so that the vertical seams between the rows of bricks do not form one line. Failure to comply with this rule leads to deterioration in the strength of the structure. This masonry provides a wall thickness of 12 cm - the width of the brick (if there is no additional wall finishing). This thickness allows you to withstand the weight wall furniture, however, will not be able to support the weight of the building structure. Therefore, such masonry cannot be carried out for construction load-bearing walls(after all, according to SNiP and the Construction Law, the thickness of load-bearing walls should not be less than 38 cm).
Any structures (for example, roof rafters) can be supported on such walls only after an examination and a special permit (project) has been issued from the regulatory services. In this case, you should limit the load on such a wall - it can withstand a weight of about 120-130 kg. Therefore, you need to hang furniture and equipment on it based on these figures (for example, hang a 150 liter electric water heater You can’t go on such a wall). In the case of the construction of walls, one side of which is outside the building, additional strengthening (reinforcement) of the masonry structure is necessary. To do this, the reinforcement is laid so that it forms a transverse “lattice”. The reinforcing grid is fastened by welding to the backfill elements in adjacent walls. The lattice pitch is 3-4 bricks (rows) thick. The fittings can be supplemented metal mesh, which is placed in the seam.
You can build such walls for the following purposes:
- For fencing beds. This type of masonry is especially often used to fence flower beds on the street in front of the entrance to the yard. This will prevent accidental or intentional collisions with flower beds.
- For the construction of interior partitions. Such masonry will create a durable wall that will have good sound insulation, and will also allow finishing with any materials. It is important to take into account the weight of the finish (for example, the total weight of the plaster) and not to overload the wall.
- Construction of auxiliary buildings. For example, dog kennels, small sheds, coal bunkers, etc. When constructing such objects, it is strongly recommended to organize a foundation for masonry (more details will be discussed in the section “ preparatory work»).
- Construction various kinds fencing: to prevent soil sliding (if the site is on a slope), to visually separate any objects, etc. However, such masonry cannot be used when constructing full-fledged fences, since the wind load at a wall 1.5 meters high and more than 2 meters long exceeds 350 kg.
About how to make similar masonry for various needs and for different conditions, read below.
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Preparatory work
Before you begin building the wall, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory work, which will differ significantly between laying the wall indoors and outdoors.
The first thing to do is make a diagram. The diagram is drawn up based on the actual dimensions of the wall. This is done to count required quantity materials (brick + mortar). Having the exact dimensions of the wall (and knowing its thickness), the amount of material is calculated. Yes, on 1 square meter 61 pieces of standard brick or 45 pieces of one-and-a-half bricks are required. In the diagram they also try to draw the brickwork.
Next, the construction site is cleared. If you plan to build indoors, then the floor is carefully leveled, removing unnecessary areas or filling depressions with cement. Similar work is carried out with the ceiling - the surface must also be perfectly flat. If there are cracks, they should be cleared of debris and filled with cement or concrete mortar.
In the case of building a wall on the street, it is necessary to prepare a foundation for it, since it has a large mass. To do this, dig a trench approximately 30-40 cm wide and 50-60 cm deep. Then formwork is made from boards, metal sheet, slate and other available materials. A “cushion” is placed at the bottom of the trench. To do this, pour an 8-10 cm layer of sand, which is leveled and compacted, the same layer of gravel (or crushed stone), which is also leveled and compacted. Then they begin to fill the foundation with cement or concrete mortar. Then the foundation is given time to dry and the formwork is removed. Laying on the foundation should be done so that the longitudinal axis of the wall coincides with the axis of the foundation (i.e., the bricks are placed in the middle of the foundation, leaving a protrusion of the foundation on both sides). This completes the preparatory work.
To properly insulate walls on your own, you will need the desire and some funds to purchase required material. And for this you need to know how to cover a half-brick house: the builder’s advice will help with this.
Action plan
As soon as a decision is made to insulate a house, a lot of related questions immediately arise:
- What material is needed;
- How to insulate walls;
- Thermal insulation must be inside or outside;
- Will the house really be warm?
- How to properly insulate walls.
Any builder will tell you that it is imperative to insulate the walls of a house half a brick from the outside. Internal thermal insulation is resorted to only in extreme cases, but not everyone knows why.
To figure it out, you need to look at the diagram, where you can see the condition of the wall with external insulation, internal insulation and without insulation. In general, the dew point is where moisture collects. The diagram shows the location of positive and negative temperatures.
With internal thermal insulation of the room, the wall will be exposed to the cold and will be constantly damp, because the layer of material will not allow it to warm up due to home heat.
Moisture will accumulate at the dew points, and its location will move closer to the home. Consequently, the formation of condensation here will be greatest, and internal thermal insulation will prevent drying.
Over time, this will definitely cause various microorganisms. The insulation will contribute to their development. Don't reassure yourself. These microorganisms have a harmful effect not only on the external attractiveness of the house, but also on the well-being of the residents. When looking at the diagram you can see that without thermal insulation, on inner surface walls, the amount of moisture will be less than when insulating from the inside.
External thermal insulation
The wall is protected from the outside thermal insulation material from cold air and dampness, and from the inside it is warmed by the warmth of the room itself, which will also help it dry out if moisture suddenly accumulates. The dew point moves in the direction of the street, therefore, condensation also moves in this direction, as can be seen in the photo.
External insulation will help preserve the comfort and warmth of a half-brick home. It can be concluded that there are quite good reasons not to resort to internal insulation Houses. This is only possible in desperate situations.
Expanded polystyrene
First, external cleaning of dirt and dust will be required, then they should be leveled, since otherwise there is still the possibility of a void occurring between the polystyrene foam board and the surface, which can cause deformation. The next step will be priming if you use glue when installing the insulation.
Next, the plate is glued using special glue or “fungi”. For greater reliability, you can use both options simultaneously. When insulating with extruded polystyrene foam, the surface for applying glue must be rough. And finally, everything is plastered or faced with brick.
Installation of expanded polystyrene using a frame made of slats is also used, if there is no further brick cladding or use of plaster. Slats thicker than the slab are attached to the wall, the distance between which should be optimal for a tight fit of the slabs.
Mineral wool
Mineral wool is a fairly hard material, so installation work occur using the frame method. The frame is made of slats, between which insulation is laid. If the walls are made of brick or concrete, the slats are fastened with dowels and nails, and if they are made of wood, then with self-tapping screws. It is also necessary to provide waterproofing over this material and build protection against rodents.
If brick cladding is planned in the future, thermal insulation is laid between the main and facing walls, using certain bonds that will hold the mineral wool.
Polyurethane foam
This latest technology, quite expensive. It will make it possible to both strengthen a half-brick country house and, of course, insulate it. Has the following advantages:
- the material expands after application and fills all voids;
- excellent grip;
- once hardened, it becomes very durable;
- excellent heat and sound insulation qualities.
But there are also unpleasant moments:
- this low-density material allows steam to pass through well;
- afraid of fire;
- high price;
- professional help is required;
- over time it loses its properties.
Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam should be carried out by specialists, because funds will be required personal protection due to the release of harmful elements during the insulation process.
Facade insulation will help maintain comfort and warmth in a half-brick house. External insulation is aimed at good heating of the walls and a shift in the dew point to outer surface. Thanks to this, condensation does not accumulate, which allows the previously wet wall to dry due to the divergence of steam.
For thermal insulation of external surfaces, foamed polystyrene and polyurethane, gas-filled polymers are used. These materials have proven themselves to be excellent due to their moisture resistance, lightness, stable shape and strength.
Materials for insulation from the outside
Protection of walls with thermal insulation material from the outside from cold and humid air, promotes their drying out due to excessive accumulation of moisture. Insulation materials include:
- Mineral wool is a solid and semi-solid slab made from silica and basalt. Processing by special means to impart waterproof and vapor-tight properties. It has a density from 80 to 150 kg/m3 and thermal conductivity - 0.030 W/m. The material is divided into the following types:
- simple;
- lamella - due to the perpendicular arrangement of the fibers, they are excellent for insulation uneven surfaces and brick walls.
- Expanded polystyrene is a durable and easy-to-process material with low water absorption. Has a density from 15 to 50 kg/m3. It is relatively cheap. The average service life is from 25 to 35 years. After the expiration date, the material begins to partially crumble, which reduces the thermal resistance of the wall. The thickness of the slabs is from 1 to 50 cm. Suitable only for external insulation. But it has a number of disadvantages:
- easily ignites;
- does not allow steam to pass through;
- not suitable for insulating internal walls;
- attracts mice.
- Polyurethane foam is a compound of polyisocyanate and polyol, which forms foam when heated. Thermal conductivity from 0.019 to 0.035 W/m3. It allows air to pass through well and has a semi-elastic structure, which contributes to excellent sound insulation. Resistant to acids and chemicals. Waterproof and low-flammable material has a service life of 20-30 years. However, there are also negative points:
- high price;
- does not come into contact with mineral acids and organic solvents;
- is a steam transmitter;
- during installation you need the help of specialists;
- loses its properties at the end of its service life.
How to insulate a half-brick house?
External insulation prevents pests from entering. When choosing cladding, the material of the building, the nature of the residence are taken into account and it is determined whether the work will be carried out from the inside or outside. It is better to insulate a house from the outside for the following reasons:
- The usable area does not change.
- The original tightness of the material remains intact.
- Protection against temperature changes.
- Additional protection of the original masonry from pests.
- The service life of the house is extended.
Insulation with mineral wool
The material has a rigid structure, so mineral wool slabs are cut with a knife or saw. Scissors are not suitable for use, since when cut they compress the material, destroying the structure of the thermal insulation. For dense filling when cutting, a margin of 0.5 to 2 cm is needed. The cut of the rolled wool is made rolled up, and the slabs are cut separately. The thickness of insulation on building facades must be at least 10 cm. Insulation methods:
- Mineral wool is taken in slabs, the dimensions of which are used to build wooden frame. The wall is smeared with adhesive and the “windows” are filled with cotton slabs. Waterproofing and thermal insulation is done between the main and external wall. The house is faced with brick.
- Along the entire perimeter of the main masonry of the house, anchors are inserted, which serve as the base holder for the mineral wool slabs. All walls are lined with insulation and secured with clamps. The house is faced with brick with a small gap. The seams are rubbed and leveled. The house is covered with siding or additional plaster, which is applied to the reinforcing mesh, and then painted.
