Mesh fencing (chain-link mesh) is a favorite choice of summer residents. Technology for installing a metal mesh fence Decorating a chain-link fence
Rabitz - great option for fencing summer cottages. The ventilated material allows sunlight to easily enter the area and visually makes it open. Air currents and rays of the heavenly body reach vegetation and contribute to the production high yield . If desired, the owner can decorate the mesh fence special materials
, which hide what is happening on the site from prying eyes. These materials have varying degrees of shading.
- Other benefits of mesh fencing include: Easy installation
- . Anyone can install a chain-link fence. Practicality and reliability
- . The fence fully performs its functions; you just need to decide on the size of the cells. If the structure encloses the entire yard, it can be surrounded by a large mesh. If the material will separate only part of the territory, for example, for keeping birds, it is better to buy a net with small cells. Through them, the chicks will not be able to leave their assigned place.
Availability and reasonable price
. Chain-link mesh is easy to find at construction markets and in related stores. It is sold in rolls, which makes transportation easier. The rolls can be placed on a trailer and taken to the country.
Types of mesh metal fencing As befits any building structure, mesh fencing is divided into certain types.
- Their differences are based on several points:
- Presence/absence of stiffeners.
- Cell shape. The holes are square, diamond-shaped, rectangular.
The shape of the top line of the fence. The criterion depends on the chosen design. The edge can be smooth, angular, wavy, in general, anything.
Metal braiding is the brainchild of a German mason named Rabitsa. It is made from low-carbon steel wire using the flat knitting method with one leno. The cellular structure of the fabric guarantees the stability of the enclosing structure, since the material is not afraid of stretching and tearing.
- On the building materials market, consumers expect three types of chain-link mesh:. The product is made of black wire and needs protection against corrosion. Its scope of application is the installation of temporary fencing. When unpainted, the canvas lasts no more than 3 years, while the mesh protected by paint functions properly for 7 to 10 years.
- Galvanized . Chemical element protects the chain-link from rust, which affects the cost of the material. But galvanized mesh is quickly sold out by consumers due to its durability and easy maintenance. The finished fence does not require painting and can withstand any weather conditions.
- Plasticized . Chainlink with polymer coating looks more impressive than her “naked” friends. Dyes are used during production. This opens up space for the imagination of the designer engaged in refining summer cottage. Plastic sheet can withstand cold and high humidity. It serves for as long as possible without losing its appearance and protective properties.
Cells and type of canvas
The mesh of the mason's chain-link differs not only in the type of wire. The shape of the material and the cell size are also important in construction. Empty “cells” can be diamond-shaped, rectangular, square, etc. The shape is not important in construction; it is taken into account for design purposes. As for the cell size, it deserves careful selection, since there are options on the market with sizes ranging from 25 to 60 millimeters or more.
Small cells strengthen the canvas, but the light transmittance of the material deteriorates. Wide cages allow sunlight into the garden, but do not protect it from the invasion of stray animals or neighboring animals. Therefore, the choice of mesh for creating a fence should be based on the purpose of application. It is optimal to fence the area with a chain link with a cell size of 40 - 50 mm.
When purchasing a mesh, it is important to pay attention to indicators such as:
- wire thickness;
- type of canvas;
- material dimensions.
For fencing summer cottages, rolls 1.5 m high are selling well, although 2-meter products can also be used for building a fence. According to the “thickness” criterion, the greatest demand is for mesh with a density of 2 – 2.5 mm. It is heavy, it requires reliable support pillars and complicates the installation of the structure.
The “web type” parameter allows you to select a mesh with curved lower ends or curled upper ends. It will be difficult for intruders to get over such a fence, so a chain-link mesh with twisted ends will become a reliable guard for an area that is empty for a significant part of the year.
How to build a mesh fence
There are several options for fastening sectional mesh.
Using mesh roll
Steel mesh will not sag over time if a distance of 2 - 2.5 m is maintained between the load-bearing parts of the structure. But the aesthetics of such a fence are lame, and
The space under the mesh can be easily penetrated by a naughty child or an adult hooligan; just raise the bottom line of the fence.
Reliable and beautiful view have fences with carefully stretched mesh. It is fastened using wires with a diameter of up to 5.5 mm. The elements are pulled between the columns.
Panels and frames
Very solid look They acquire those mesh enclosing structures that have wooden veins at the bottom. The thickness of the wood is about 35 mm. The board is attached to the posts with screws, then the mesh is attached.
A mesh fence assembled from sections and frames made from steel corners will also be strong and reliable. The result is a panel fabric. The mesh is attached to the frames using electric welding equipment. The classic size of sections is 1.3 x 2.3 m.
Mesh panel fencing is a common type of fence in suburban construction. Their popularity is due to the possibility self-assembly and installations.
Installation of support pillars
You can install a mesh fence on timber or strong wooden poles purchased from hardware store. But the service life of wooden supports is short, so it is preferable to install metal supports. If the owner nevertheless decides to base the structure on wooden poles, when choosing, he should choose sanded wood. It is necessary to remove the bark. At home, this work can be done using special equipment or a hatchet.
All wooden posts must be the same length, capable of supporting the fabric of the future fence. It is important to add to the height of the supports the approximate depth of the holes into which the posts will be immersed. To prevent the supports from deteriorating from the effects of pests and precipitation, it is necessary to walk on their surface with special protective equipment, and paint the top.
To avoid wood rotting, the bottom of the post must be treated waterproofing mastic. The product is used to paint the columns at both ends.
Metal columns of square or round section. They are sold painted and with mounting hooks. During the installation process, the chain-link mesh is hung on these hooks and at the next stage is welded to the posts. To protect iron posts from rust, it is also recommended to cover their lower part with waterproofing mastic.
The installation of support posts begins after marking the line of the future fence. The reference point will be a pillar that will support entrance group. Thus, the installation of the mesh fence is carried out from the location of the gate.
- Measure the panel along its length.
- From the first pillar, the length of the panel is marked along the entire perimeter.
- Holes are made using a hand drill.
- The bottom of the pits is covered with a “cushion” made of sand and gravel.
- The posts are inserted and the holes are filled with concrete, controlling the vertical position of the supports.
- Rest for 7 days, waiting for the solution to completely harden.
Panel installation
Fastening mesh fencing panels requires careful attention. The owner must position each product horizontally so that it is level with the support posts. No errors are allowed. After making sure that the perimeter and installation planes are perfectly even, proceed to welding work. Each panel is attached to the load-bearing parts separately.
Make the job easier by welding the panels on both sides and along the entire length of the joint with the supports. Observe the thickness of the seams and the distance between them. These indicators should be 5 and 50 cm, respectively.
Final works
The service life of mesh fencing can be extended by protecting the weaving and welded areas from corrosion. Clean the welding points, and treat the posts and frame themselves with a primer and paint. Thread a cable or wire into the top row of “cells” and wind antennae out of them along the edges of the mesh. These simple steps will give the fence a complete look and will prevent the outer loops of the canvas from unwinding in the span.
When designing a fence for a dacha or country house Many property owners choose a chain link fence. There are logical reasons for this. This structure, the basis of which is a lightweight wire mesh, is ideal for fencing a plot, garden or vegetable garden.
1
Installing a mesh fence allows you to mark the boundaries of your property immediately after purchasing it. In order to build a chain-link fence, there is no need to use heavy construction equipment and hired workers. It is quite possible to install this type of fence with your own hands.
In most cases, garden fences are made from this material. The dacha is a place that is visited quite rarely. Based on this, installation of the fence capital type unprofitable, since its price will far exceed the value of the property in the house.
Chain-link fence
A chain-link fence has the following undoubted advantages:
- Affordable price. The cost of components for the fence is quite low. This allows you to install long fencing without any special expenses.
- Easy to install. This type of fencing can be installed in an open field, without electricity or complex equipment. Regular household tools are sufficient.
- Fast installation. Unlike the construction of permanent fences, the installation of a chain-link fence is carried out within a few days.
- The fence passes freely sunlight. This allows you to plant plants in close proximity to the fence.
- Visual lightness. The wire fence practically does not create a visual barrier to observing the surrounding environment. This allows you to create a feeling of unity with nature and get rid of the effect of a closed space.
- Can be combined with berry bushes or flowers. Such combinations are quite effective and practical.
- Easy to maintain, repair or replace. Damaged wire can be taken out in the trunk passenger car to a scrap metal collection point.
Advantages of this design
The durability of the fence directly depends on the material from which it is made.
2
The construction of a mesh fence is quite simple. It consists of a mesh and supports. Before you install a mesh fence, you need to decide on its choice components. The main part of the fence is the mesh. It is made from steel wire. Available in rolls 10 m long and 150 cm wide.
Depending on the design options, you can purchase the following types of mesh:
- Unprocessed. It is a regular black wire. Has the lowest cost. The service life of such a product is no more than 10 years. You can protect the material from corrosion by painting or treating it with special compounds. This procedure is quite long and expensive.
- Galvanized. A fence made of such material is impervious to corrosion. However, due to the constant friction that occurs when the fence is deformed, the zinc coating wears off. After 3-4 years, it becomes necessary to regularly treat the mesh against corrosion. Partial painting will be necessary every 2-3 years.
- Plasticized. These types of mesh have polymer spraying on the wire. Polyvinyl chloride is used as a coating. This material is impervious to temperature changes, humidity and ultraviolet radiation. PVC is resistant to mechanical stress and abrasion. Country fences made of plasticized mesh can last for decades. You can find products on sale in a variety of colors.
Galvanized mesh in rolls
Supports are of great importance for the strength, durability and aesthetics of the fence.
The construction of a chain-link fence can be done using supports made of materials such as:
- round pipes;
- steel profile;
- reinforced concrete pillars;
- wooden racks.
Steel profile fence
The most acceptable and convenient option is to use a square or rectangular section. This configuration is better suited for attaching wire.
Manufacturers produce ready-to-use supports with welded strips and hooks.
This slightly increases their cost, but significantly reduces the time for building a fence. So, let's build a fence.
3
Before making a fence from wire mesh, you need to decide on the method of securing the supports.
There are two ways:
- Concreting. It is used in places with normal and weak soil. This method is quite time-consuming, but guarantees the strength of the supports.
- Clogging. Used where the soil is rocky or has a high density. Typically used for quick installation of temporary fencing.
Since the fence around the dacha must last a long time, the choice is made in the direction of concreting.
Concreting supports
To work you will need the following tools and materials:
- manual, electric or motor drill;
- building level;
- roulette;
- Bulgarian;
- welding machine;
- wire rod or steel angle;
- paint brush;
- bayonet shovel;
- shovel;
- steel supports;
- Rabitz;
- dye;
- ingredients for concrete mortar (cement, sand, crushed stone);
- trace cord.
The wire rod or angle is purchased depending on what kind of fence is planned, tension or sectional. Sectional is much stronger. Tension fencing is cheaper and quicker to install.
Sectional type of fence
Once all the property has been prepared, work can begin.
The production of the fence begins with tracing the place where it will be installed. A cord and stakes are used for this. Considering that one roll has a length of 10 m, the distance between the posts is taken to be 2 m or 2.5 m. It is not worth making a larger distance, as the wire rod will sag.
Thus, to find out how much wire mesh you need, you need to divide the total length of the route by 10. You can get the required number of supports by dividing the length of the route by 2 or 2.5. Marks are made in places where there will be holes. After marking, practical work begins.
4
Since the supports will be subject to stress from the weight of the wire mesh and wind, they must be firmly anchored in the ground. Depending on its density, the depth of the holes varies from 60 cm to 120 cm. The holes can be dug with a shovel or drill. Since this event is quite labor-intensive, it is advisable to rent or buy garden auger. Such an acquisition will be useful, since there is always a need to manufacture pits in the private sector. The pits should be made with a diameter 2-3 times larger than the diameter of the supports.
Drilling holes for supports
After the holes for the pillars are made, the following manipulations are carried out:
- the pillars are prepared for installation (cleaned of rust, primed and painted);
- the bottom of the pits is well compacted and covered with a layer of sand;
- the sand is abundantly moistened with water;
- the supports are lowered into the pits, leveled and rigidly fixed with spacers made of broken bricks or stone;
- corner supports are reinforced with braces;
- levels are checked installed poles in height and their adjustment;
- concrete solution is poured into the holes;
- After pouring, air is removed from the solution with a steel rod.
Installation of pillars
On supports from steel pipes or rectangular profile, it is necessary to install plugs. This will protect the supports from corrosion and the accumulation of debris in them. The best option is internal PVC plugs. In this way, you can not only insulate pipes from the inside, but also decorate them. Installed supports must stand undisturbed for at least 3 days for the concrete to gain the necessary strength.
5
After the concrete in the pits has hardened, the wire mesh is installed. Given the certain specifics of this process, it is better to involve an assistant.
Wire mesh installation
Installation is carried out in the following sequence:
- Tensioners are installed on the corner supports. Purchase 6 devices for each pole.
- Wire is measured the right size. Typically, 3 lines of wire are used. This avoids the mesh sagging in the center.
- The supporting wire is inserted into the tensioners and tensioned as much as possible.
- The wire rod is fixed on support posts. This is done using wire, hooks or plastic ties.
- The mesh roll is unrolled.
- The spirals unwind from above and below. The mesh is attached to the wire.
- Steel pins are inserted into the side edges of the mesh.
- The pins are rigidly attached to the support.
- The mesh spirals are attached to the middle guide wire.
After that, you can think about how to decorate finished design. The decor can be varied. You can hang various crafts and light souvenirs in the form of plates on the fence.
Decorating a chain-link fence
Sectional fences are built somewhat differently. First, the frames are made. They are made from angle steel, pipes or timber. Then the mesh is fixed in the frame. This is done using reinforcing pins, steel brackets or welding. The next step is to attach the sections to the planks on the supports. It is advisable to leave a small gap between the frame and the ground. This will protect the structure from dampness and accumulation of debris. Finally, the entire structure is painted.
Chainlink fencing is practical and in an accessible way designate your land holdings. Having shown creativity, you can quickly and inexpensively make a beautiful and practical fence that will last for many years.
Mesh is widely used for fencing summer cottages. Anyone can install a chain-link fence with a minimum of tools on hand. If installation technology is followed and quality materials are selected, such a fence will last 15-20 years. Before starting work, you need to study the types and characteristics of the mesh, as well as study the instructions in detail to avoid mistakes.
The mesh is made from black and galvanized wire, so the quality of the chain-link varies. Black wire mesh is the cheapest and most short-lived. It becomes covered with rust after the first fog or rain, and after 3-4 years it becomes completely unusable. You can extend the service life of non-galvanized chain-link by using paint or liquid rubber, which should be applied to the mesh before its installation, and then periodically update the protective layer.
A mesh made of galvanized wire is not afraid of corrosion, and therefore lasts longer. It costs a little more than black, but does not need any protective treatment. made from galvanized chain-link, they look neat and attractive.
Plasticized chain-link is becoming increasingly popular. This metal grid covered with a dense layer of anti-corrosion polymer, due to which it has increased resistance to atmospheric influences. In addition, the polymer is colored, the mesh looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. And although such chain-link is quite expensive, the demand for it is constantly growing.
In addition to quality, chain-link mesh differs in mesh size, wire thickness and roll height. Cells can have sizes from 10 to 65 mm, wire diameter 1-5 mm. The roll height is from 0.8 to 2 m, but the most popular is 1.5 m. Standard length mesh in a roll is 10 m; rolls of 20 m are made to order. The smaller the cells, the more expensive cost mesh, because this increases material consumption.
| Type of mesh | Wire diameter, mm | Mesh width, mm | Live mesh cross-section, % | Estimated weight of 1m2 mesh, kg |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1,20 | 1000 | 55,0 | 4,52 | |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,20 | 1000 | 61,0 | 33,73 |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,20 | 1000 | 69,8 | 2,78 |
| woven mesh with rhombic mesh | 1,40 | 1000 | 65,5 | 3,8 |
| 1,20 | 1000,1500 | 75,3 (78,9) | 2,20 (1,94) | |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,40 | 1000,1500 | 71,5 (76,2) | 3,00 (2,57) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,40 | 1000,1500 | 76,3 (77,0) | 3,24 (2,74) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,60 | 1000,1500 | 73,3 (77,0) | 3,24 (2,74) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,80 | 1000,1500 | 76,0 (78,9) | 3,25 (2,75) |
| woven mesh with rhombic or square mesh | 1,60 | 1000,1500 | 77,5 (80,9) | 2,57 (2,17) |
| 1,4 | 1000-2000 | 83,6 | 1,77 | |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,4 | 1000-2000 | 87,0 | 1,33 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,6 | 1000-2000 | 85,7 | 1,74 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,6 | 1000-2000 | 88,0 | 1,39 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 87,0 | 1,76 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 89 | 1,46 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 87,9 | 1,81 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 1,8 | 1000-2000 | 91 | 1,1 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 90,7 | 1,36 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,0 | 1000-2000 | 91,7 | 1,23 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 90,7 | 1,70 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 89 | 2,44 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 92 | 1,41 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 92 | 1,74 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 2,5 | 1000-2000 | 94 | 1,10 |
| woven mesh for fencing | 3,0 | 1000-2000 | 93 | 1,53 |
Prices for mesh netting
Rabitz
Types of mesh fences
Chain-link fencing can be sectional or tensioned. The first option involves the production of rectangular metal sections, inside of which a mesh is fixed. For sections use metal corners, profile and round pipes of small diameter. They are connected by welding or bolts, if not. This type of fence looks more aesthetically pleasing and attractive; the metal frame prevents the mesh from sagging.
A tension fence is quicker and easier to install; its design consists only of support pillars and the mesh itself. The mesh is secured using steel wire, clamps, or hung on hooks welded to the posts. Pipes of different diameters, concrete pillars, and wooden beams are suitable for pillars.
Installation of fence posts
For both sectional and tension fences, the marking, preparation and installation of pillars is carried out using the same technology, only in the first case the pillars must be stronger. This is due to the additional load from the metal sections; if the supports are too thin, the fence will definitely warp.
To work you will need:
- roulette;
- wooden pegs;
- a skein of thin rope;
- building level;
- hand drill;
- crushed stone and sand;
- solution;
- profile pipes 60x40 mm;
- Bulgarian;
- primer.
Step 1: Installing Corner Posts
The area allocated for the site is cleared of vegetation, leveled if necessary, and the location of the outer pillars is determined. Experienced builders It is recommended to make corner posts from pipes with a larger cross-section than intermediate ones, and dig them deeper. For example, if for intermediate supports they take a 40x40 mm profile pipe, then for corner supports it is better to take 60x40 mm and 15-20 cm longer.
Start installing the pillars:
When the solution has hardened a little, you can remove the spacers and begin marking for the intermediate posts.
Step 2. Marking
A rope is pulled tightly between the corner supports at a height of 15 cm from the ground - this will be the fence line. The line must be divided into equal segments corresponding to the width of the span. The optimal span width for a chain-link fence is 2-2.5 m; if you increase it, the mesh will definitely sag. They retreat from the outermost post to the required distance and drive a peg into the ground, and so on until opposite corner. All pegs must be in contact with taut rope and be at an equal distance from each other.
Video - New way to install support poles
Step 3. Installation of intermediate supports
In place of the pegs, holes are drilled for the posts and the bottom is filled with sand. To make it more convenient to control the height of the supports, along the top edge corner posts They pull another rope. Now the pipes are inserted into the pits, leveled in height and vertically, covered with crushed stone and soil and compacted tightly with a crowbar. Concrete is poured on top and the surface is leveled.
If you plan to install a tension fence, and the soil on the site is quite dense, intermediate supports You can just hammer it into the ground and not concrete it. To do this, drill holes to half the required depth, insert pipes there and hammer them in with a sledgehammer. To protect the top edge of the posts from deformation, take a piece of pipe bigger size, weld a steel plate on one side and place it on top of the post. After driving in the supports, the pits are filled with crushed stone and sand, spilled with water for better compaction and compacted thoroughly.
Step 4. Welding the hooks
After about a week, when the concrete has sufficiently hardened, installation can continue. You can secure the mesh to the poles with wire or clamps, but it is more convenient to hang it on hooks. There are profile pipes on sale with already welded hooks, but if you have a welding machine, it is cheaper to make them yourself. For this purpose, pieces of steel rod, screws, nails, even thick wire are suitable - anything that can be welded to the pipe and bent. On a pole 2 m high, it is enough to make 3 hooks: at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, 10 cm from the top of the pipe and in the middle.
Video - DIY chain-link fence
Step 1. Attaching the mesh
A roll of chain-link is placed near a corner post, unwinded a little and the cells are put on the hooks. To securely fix the edge of the mesh, you need to take a piece of reinforcement with a cross-section of 8 mm and a length of 1.5 m and thread it into the cells of the first row. After this, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. Now, when tensioning the roll, the mesh will not sag. Having secured the end of the mesh, the roll is transferred to the next support, carefully unwinding it.
Having retreated 10-15 cm from the junction of the chain-link with the pipe, a steel rod is again threaded into the cells. This time there is no need to weld it, it will simply help to tension the mesh evenly. When the mesh is put on the hooks, the rod is removed, the roll is unwound another span, the reinforcement is inserted again, and so on until the very end of the fence. To connect two sheets, use wire from the outermost vertical row of one of the rolls.
Step 2. Fixing the canvas from sagging
Even a well-stretched canvas sags a little over time, so at the installation stage you need to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the posts. You will need 6 mm wire and a welding machine. The wire is threaded into the second or third row of cells horizontally along the entire fence. Where the mesh adjoins the posts, the wire is welded. Then the lower edge of the mesh is strengthened in the same way, and finally the hooks are bent. Now the fence canvas is securely fixed on the supports and will not sag or sag.
Step 3. Final stage
Once the fence is installed, the finishing touches need to be completed:
- place plastic plugs on top of the pipes;
- paint the posts;
- Twist the upper tendrils of the chain-link in pairs into 2 turns and bend down.
At this point, the installation of the tension fence is considered completed.
Video - Connecting a chain-link into one roll
Installation of a sectional fence
Manufacturing of sections
Step 2. Preparing the racks
Rectangular plates 20x5 cm and 4-5 mm thick are cut from sheet steel. Take one plate, apply it perpendicular to the pole at a height of 20 cm from the ground and weld it. The second plate is welded at the top, 15-20 cm away from the edge. The plates are attached to the remaining supports in the same way.
Step 3. Installation of sections
The first section is placed between the pillars, raised and leveled. Then they weld the sides to the plates and move on to the next span. It is very important to correctly align the sections in height so that top bars the frames formed a single line. After installing all sections, the welding areas are cleaned, the fence frame is primed and painted.
Read step-by-step instructions on how to do it in our new article.
Video - How to make a chain-link fence
3D mesh made of metal rods is one of the most popular materials for constructing a fence structure. The mesh fence is distinguished by high strength, long-term performance characteristics, low price. Such characteristics determine the wide demand of customers for 3 d mesh.
How 3D mesh is made
3 d mesh is made of hot-dip galvanized wire. The production process is fully automated. Treated wire various diameters is cut into metal rods of the required diameter, from which the panel is subsequently welded. For welding, a spot method is used, the use of which does not deform the 3 d mesh.
A V-shaped bend of 100 mm is made on the finished panel, which increases the rigidity of the structure.
After cleaning, washing and drying, the panel is painted and then baked in a polymerization oven, due to which a highly durable material is formed on the section. polymer layer, protecting ready product from corrosion.
Assortment of 3 d mesh for fence
Our company offers a wide range of 3D mesh for fences and all the equipment necessary for a complete fencing installation.
Standard line components:
3d mesh for fence - 1730x2500 mm, 2030x2500 mm, 2030x3000 mm, section rod diameter - 3-5 mm;
pillars 60x40x1.4, height 2000 - 3000 mm;
gates 1530x1000 mm, 1730x1000 mm, 2030x1000 mm, d.p. 3 - 5 mm;
gates 1730x4000 mm, 2030x4000 mm, 3, 4 mm.
fastening - set Clamp 40x60, bracket with bolt or self-tapping screw;
set of tops V-shaped and for L-shaped SBB 500
AKL SBB 500/50/3 Bay (10m)
wire clamp
Color ready-made solutions standard line - green (RAL 6005).
Coating type: just galvanized and galvanized + polymer
Our company has own production, so we can also make custom fencing according to the dimensions of an existing project.
Size range of non-standard solutions:
3d mesh for fence - height 1530 - 2930 mm, width up to 3100 mm, length 3 - 5 mm;
pillars - wall thickness 1.4 - 3.5 mm, section 60x40, 60x60, 80x80, height 1000 - 12000 mm;
gates - height 1530 - 2930 mm, width 1000 - 1000 mm;
gate - height 1730 - 2930 mm, width 3000 - 6000 mm.
Any color from the RAL line is used for painting.
How to buy 3 d fence mesh
Buying 3D fencing mesh from our company is profitable due to the absence of an intermediary markup. In addition to the low price, you get high quality, backed by product test certificates and a service life guarantee of up to 60 years.
In our company you can buy 3D mesh of any standard size from the standard line of ready-made solutions or place an order for production.
To contact a customer service specialist, leave a request for a call back or call the regional office yourself. You can also request a calculation based on your volume by sending a request by email.
The manager will advise you in detail on all items, inform you about availability, calculate the cost, organize door-to-door delivery and turnkey installation. A wide network of warehouses throughout the country allows the customer to buy 3 d mesh directly in their region.
How to install a 3d fence mesh.
Installation of 3D fence mesh is quite simple. Most often, the use of special equipment is not required, as is the case with concrete and brick fences.
You will need a team of at least 3 people and working tools for installation. Before starting work, we recommend that you read the installation instructions for the fence mesh 3 d.
If you need to fence your summer cottage quickly and inexpensively, perfect option– chain-link fence. The material itself has many positive properties, in particular flexibility, which allows you to make rounded turns. Regarding durability, some types last 4–5 years, others – 30 or more.
Installation is carried out in several ways - you can simply manually pull it between the supports or make separate sections using welding. A variety of pillars are used – wooden, metal, brick. The choice of design depends on its purpose. If everything is done thoughtfully, step by step, the work goes easily.
Chain-link mesh - features of different types
All products use black low-carbon metal wire with a diameter of 1–6.5 mm, intertwined with each other. The cells have a strict square or rhombic shape with angles of 60°, sizes from 2.5 to 100 millimeters. The thickness of the material and clearance parameters affect the scope of application. The main purpose is to create fences, but it is also used in construction, cages for breeding poultry and animals.
Some manufacturers pre-treat raw materials, but this is not required condition.Depending on this, there are three types of chain-link:
- 1. Made from ordinary wire without protection, which leads to rapid corrosion, which shortens the life of the mesh to 4–5 years, after which dismantling is required. Accordingly, this is the cheapest material of all. Mostly used temporarily with the expectation of replacement in the future. Painting will prolong service life, but should be applied immediately after installation and then repeated at least every three years.
- 2. Galvanized mesh is more expensive, but due to the protective layer it also lasts much longer. The best option in the price-quality ratio, therefore it deservedly enjoys the greatest popularity.
- 3. Relatively recently, plasticized chain-link has appeared; polymer paint was initially applied to its metal wire base. She is not afraid of precipitation, is more beautiful than her predecessors, has different colors. Mostly green, but there are products with burgundy, black, and light shades.
An alternative option, the gitter mesh, is confidently advancing on the market. It is made from high-quality steel rods with a diameter of 3–6 mm, held together spot welding, which gives reliability and durability - up to 50 years. Appearance resembles a lattice, which is why it got its name.
Individual elements are bent - stiffening ribs are obtained. They simultaneously perform two functions - they give strength and decorativeness. Its approximate cost is 390 rubles per square meter made of metal 4 mm with polymer coating. For 1 m2 of products made from 5 mm rods you will have to pay 550 rubles.
A chain-link fence has the lowest cost of all fencing options. Despite its relative cheapness, if installed carefully, it will decorate any area. If you show your imagination, it is created unique design with your own hands. Possible options:
- 1. Weaving openwork patterns. It is performed on a coarse mesh with thin wire.
- 2. Landscaping. Climbing plants are planted along the fence.
- 3. Artificial flowers. They are woven into cells, made from insulated wire, pieces of plastic.
- 4. Drawing on a grid with small cells. Aerosol paints create various images.
In addition to the financial component, other advantages of the material also make you choose it:
- light weight, which allows you to do without a massive frame or foundation if necessary;
- resistance to external climatic influences, which differs for different types of mesh, as well as mechanical resistance - chain-link fencing is difficult to destroy;
- does not create shadows, so all plants feel comfortable even next to the fence;
- does not require any maintenance, except for structures made of ordinary unprotected wire;
- a wide range allows you to make a choice in quality, price range, size - the material is available in every hardware store;
- It is installed quickly, only a sectional fence is a little slower, but in any case, two people are enough and a significant result is visible in a day.
Of course, there are some disadvantages, but they are avoided if you choose high-quality products and install the fence in accordance with the recommended technology.
Preparation - drafting, materials
To build a fence, you will need a mesh, support pillars, everything else depends on the chosen design. Drawing up a project will allow you to correctly calculate their number. To do this, measure the area around the perimeter and draw a sketch on paper. Access roads, trees, and various buildings are taken into account.
The features of the relief are taken into account in order to determine what is more profitable when it is uneven - to remove the soil or to make a fence in a cascade with differences in height. The drawing indicates the location of gates, gates and pillars.
Installation methods
Preliminary sketches, which so far contain only general data, allow us to calculate the amount of certain materials: mesh, pillars. To find out how much everything else you need, you should stop at one of possible technologies.
The simplest, but not very reliable, involves stretching the mesh along the supports and screwing them to them. A significant drawback is that sometimes it sags. How a temporary solution can be applied. If you insert wire into the cells around the entire perimeter, it will support the fence. At a minimum, it is stretched from above, better - additionally at the bottom, and the most advanced version - also in the middle. The required footage is equal to the perimeter multiplied by two or three.
The most attractive look is a fence consisting of separate sections. In length they are equal to the gap between the pillars minus a few centimeters of space from the support to the frame, and the height is determined as desired. Corners are used for manufacturing. Required amount metal is counted along the perimeter. This is the most labor-intensive and expensive project, but the most reliable and durable. It is used on uneven terrain to create a cascading fence.
A less expensive option is obtained when reinforcement, which is cheaper, is used for the frame instead of corners. It is not necessary to make individual elements from it; it can be stretched in cells from below and above, and welded to supports. Detailed drawings will help determine the quantity required material, location, which is especially important for sectional fencing with changes in terrain.
Grid selection
The main parameters are taken into account: wire diameter, mesh size, coating. The chain-link is supplied in rolls, usually 10 m long, 1.2–1.5 m wide, sometimes two-meter and even 3 or 4 m long. The height of the fence depends on this. Required length equals the perimeter. If you plan to use sections, then the size of one is multiplied by the total number. For significant volumes, correct calculation will save money.
The material and coating were discussed above. Another important indicator that affects the quality of the design is the cell size, which ranges from 25 to 65 mm. The smaller it is, the more expensive and durable the product. The shape - square or diamond-shaped - does not play a significant role.
Choose from purely practical point view, taking into account the purposes for which it is planned to be used. If for an internal fence where chickens or adult birds will be located, there are one set of parameters, but to prevent larger living creatures from entering, there are others. For an external fence, the indicators are different - the priority is the cross-section of the wire and its type.
The thickness of the metal directly affects the strength. For capital long-term structures, a mesh thinner than 2.5 mm is not used. The combination of low thickness with large cells makes it unsuitable for fencing. It soon becomes deformed, sags, and holes appear.
Taking into account all the indicators, it is recommended to use a chain-link mesh with cells of 40–60 mm, with a wire diameter of 2.5 mm, galvanized or plasticized, for the external fencing of a summer cottage. She has optimal ratio prices and quality.
Another important sign good stuff– condition of the roll edges along the width. For products manufactured at large enterprises using modern equipment, they are curved, which greatly simplifies installation. And private firms mostly have only a primitive machine, unsuitable for this operation. It is expensive to do them manually, so the buyer has to bend them.
What kind of poles are used?
From all points of view, the greatest advantages are metal pipes. To install them, minimal priming or painting of the part that will be in the ground is required. Any fastening can be welded to such poles without any problems. The recommended diameter of the round profile is 60 mm, the cross-section of the rectangular one is 40×60 mm.
You can also find the material at the nearest scrap metal purchase, which will cost much less. Painted pipes with hooks specially designed for sectional fences have appeared on sale. They cost a little more than usual, but there are fewer worries. It is preferable to use a rectangular profile - it is stronger due to the stiffening ribs that are formed due to the geometry. It’s easier to weld fasteners to them and they look more beautiful.
Wood, as a material for supports, is quite common due to its availability. This is the simplest solution, which then often turns into trouble. Wood has significant drawback– it is unstable to weather conditions, it is destroyed by microorganisms. Dense rocks are very expensive, while soft ones are affordable, but extremely short-lived. True, if you properly treat them against fungi and rot, and constantly paint them, they will last for 20 years.
In practice, wood is used extremely rarely for permanent fences. While the metal parts still last (at least twice as long), it already has to be replaced - troublesome and unwise. But if the quality of the mesh matches the pillars, then it is quite acceptable to buy the material for 70 rubles. per linear meter.
Other types of pipes, such as asbestos-cement pipes, are also used. They are quite durable, relatively inexpensive - for one piece three meters long you will have to pay 350 rubles. It is not easy to mount the mesh on such a support; it must be done special devices in the form of clamps or clamps. Since they are hollow, it will be necessary to install plugs, otherwise the water collected inside will freeze in winter and tear the support.
Brick pillars, so popular today, are rarely used for chain-link fencing. These materials are very different - impressive massive construction made of brick and light air mesh. Maybe a sectional fence. Besides, you can’t just put them on the ground—you need a foundation.
Concrete supports are affordable and their strength is beyond doubt. At good quality they can last for centuries. But it’s inconvenient to attach, you have to invent something, and this extra expenses metal and time. In addition, delivery to an area remote from the store will be a problem - in the salon passenger car no luck.
Marking the territory and installing poles
They start by cleaning the area where the fence will go. It’s better to do this in advance and around the entire perimeter, so that later you won’t be distracted or irritated by the garbage lying under your feet. Then pegs are placed in the corners and a cord is pulled between them. Next, mark the locations of the pillars. A distance of 2–2.5 m is recommended, no more, because the mesh tends to sag.
Calculate the number of supports by dividing the length of the straight section of the fence by 2 or 2.5. An integer value is unlikely to work. Then the total length is divided by the average value. For example, a side is 37 meters. If you divide by 2 it’s 18.5 columns, by 2.5 it’s 14.8. An intermediate number of 16 is chosen. When 37 meters are divided into 16 racks, the distance between them is 2.3 m, which is quite acceptable.
Marks are made along the line of the stretched rope. Holes are made with a shovel or drill. It is important that their level is 15–20 cm below the freezing point of the soil. However, not all craftsmen agree with this statement. In each area the indicators are different, but in any case it is not less than one meter. The mesh fence is quite heavy, and if the supports are not deepened enough, it can tilt. In some cases, half a meter is allowed, a little more, but this is determined by the properties of the soil - it is dense, clayey.
If the soil is loose or heaving, install below the freezing depth. Then the pole will definitely not be pushed up in winter. Another way is to make a hole twice as wide, throw small stones and gravel into the space around it and tamp it down. Concrete is placed 40 cm from the top. Drainage is created at the bottom; the supports will definitely not move. It doesn't matter what material they are made of, even wood. This is the most reliable way fixation.
Metal pipes can be hammered with a sledgehammer, but top part must be protected from deformation with a piece of board or plywood.
It is sometimes quite difficult to achieve an exact vertical position with this installation method. They use a compromise option - they dig a hole halfway, install a support and finish it to the required depth.
Before installing the pillars, they are prepared. Wooden ones are treated with an antiseptic down to the level of deepening into the soil. Instead, many owners use recycled engine oil, resin, or burn it over a fire. The metal is cleaned of rust and coated with an inhibitor to prevent corrosion. Can be painted with primer or bitumen. It is important to follow the installation order, then all the supports will be on the same line.
- 1. Install pillars in the corners. When pulled, they bear the heaviest load, so they are reinforced with spacers. Next in line are the pillars where the fence breaks.
- 2. They all act as landmarks between which the rope is pulled. Next comes the turn of the gate and wicket. The supports for them are often reinforced and must be concreted.
- 3. The intermediate posts are placed last, maintaining the same distance between them, which is especially important for a sectional fence. Amendments may need to be made. They monitor not only the location on the same line, but also be sure to control the verticality with a plumb line.
In an area that has a significant slope, it will not be possible to stretch the mesh. There is only one way out of the situation - terracing the relief. At the site of the height difference, a longer support is installed. A mesh is attached to it on one side, and the canvas is separated along the width. The second part is set on a different level. A sectional fence is mounted according to the same principle.
Tension fencing - successive steps
A few days after installing the pillars, when the concrete has hardened, the final stage begins. They start by pulling the cord along the line where the top of the fence will go. It is determined in such a way that the bottom of the net does not touch the ground, but is several centimeters higher. When metal comes into contact with the ground, even galvanized metal, it begins to rust faster.
Next, they provide for attaching the chain-link to the supports. If they are metal, welding is used - with its help, small, 3-4 centimeter sections of rod are installed. The thickness is chosen so that you can bend them later without much effort. If the pillars are wooden, nails are driven along the entire length every 15–20 cm. For asbestos-cement and concrete, soft wire or plastic clamps are prepared.
Start with a corner support. This is explained by the fact that when going around it, it is difficult to tighten the mesh well. You will have to separate the whole piece, and this is extra work. The roll is installed vertically, the outer cells are secured in any way. It is recommended to stretch a long rod into them, which is connected by welding with hooks, nailed, bending them, or wrapped with wire. This will ensure even tension.
The work will require the help of one more person, or better yet two. Unwind the roll to the next post. A piece of reinforcement is threaded into the cells that are located a little further behind it. Two people - one on top, the other below, grab it with their hands and pull it towards themselves. The third attaches the mesh to the support. The process is repeated until the roll runs out, and this can happen between the posts.
Then the cells are connected to each other. This is done simply. Remove the wire from the outermost row, apply the finished fabric to the next one and weave it between them. The result is a continuous mesh without seams. It is better to foresee that it will end so that the remainder is not too short. Then it is laid on the ground and secured in this position, which is more convenient than hanging it in weight.
You may come across advice to carry out the procedure with all the rolls in advance, making one large and continuous sheet. You shouldn't do that. The mesh will get in the way, lying under your feet, and it will be uncomfortable and difficult to work due to the large weight.
To prevent sagging, wire or reinforcement is passed through the cells at the same time, which is fixed on the supports. Make one top row or several depending on the height of the fence. If it is long, tensioners are installed in the form of a hook with a long thread or a lanyard. These are two screws that are screwed into a special long nut from different sides. At the ends they have hooks or clamps where the cable is threaded.
If the antennae on the mesh are straight, they are folded down. This protects against injury and creates additional strength of the canvas. The remaining piece is separated by retreating one cell from the last pillar. All that remains is to paint the supports if you used welding. When wire or clamps are used for fastening, this is done in advance.
Sectional fence - assembly instructions
All preliminary work is similar to the device tension fencing. You need to make a frame inside which the mesh is mounted. The material is a corner with shelves 30–40 mm and a thickness of 4–5 mm. Its length parameters are 10–20 cm less than the distance between the supports, and its width differs from their height by 10–15 cm. The metal is cut to size using a grinder and welded into a rectangle.
Unwind the roll, separate the piece, removing the wire. Sometimes the mesh is wider than the section, then the excess is removed with a cutting wheel. But it is advisable to foresee this and calculate everything so as not to create additional worries for yourself - buying a chain-link according to the size of the frame.
It is more difficult to tighten the mesh inside the section than without it. To do the work with your own hands efficiently, do everything step by step:
- rods 4–5 mm thick are threaded into the outermost cells;
- on one side they weld it inside the corner;
- the fittings are installed below and above in the same way;
- they grab it by welding from the side where the mesh is already fixed;
- tension and finally fix the fencing element inside the frame.
Another method involves welding pieces of wire with a diameter of 4–5 mm as often as possible internal parties corners. A mesh is put on them, then folded over. Here it is important to calculate where to install the hooks. To prevent the fence from sagging, they are welded at the top of each cell.
When the sections are ready, strips of metal 4-5 mm thick are attached to the posts (by welding, on clamps, nailed - depending on the material). On both sides of the supports they should protrude enough to allow the frame to be attached. Two pieces are required on each side, installed at a distance of 20–30 cm from the edges.
A sectional fence is more difficult and more expensive to make than a simple tension fence, but its appearance is much more attractive.
Cost of a chain link fence
Financial costs are determined by the design of the fence and the materials used. There are many companies offering turnkey construction of chain-link fences. Cost of one linear meter from 320 to 430 rubles depending on the diameter of the wire and the height of the fence.
Many people prefer to do it themselves, winning in financially. It is not necessary to adhere to any scheme; various combinations are possible - metal with wood, concrete, and the like. The most expensive are sectional fences, which require a lot of iron. The proposed tables are based on retail prices of large manufacturers as of 2018.
| product name | Dimensions | price, rub. | |
| Cells, mm | Rolls (width and length), m | ||
| Chainlink mesh with PVC coating | 55×55×2.5 | 1.5×10 | 956 |
| 1.8×10 | 1147 | ||
| 2.0×10 | 1274 | ||
| Chain-link mesh, not galvanized | 10×10×1.0 | 1.0×10 | 944 |
| 15×15×1.0 | 1.0×10 | 596 | |
| 20×20×1.4 | 1.5×10 | 956 | |
| Galvanized mesh | 55×55×2.5 | 1.5×10 | 1283 |
| 1.8×10 | 1539 | ||
| 2.0×10 | 1711 | ||
Cost table for 1 linear meter of metal products
Prices may vary in different regions, but the data presented allows you to navigate when choosing a chain-link fencing model.
