Do-it-yourself chimney for a bathhouse made from a pipe. Installing a pipe in a bathhouse - advice from an experienced builder Stove pipe in a bathhouse when to do it
Before starting work on installing a chimney, you should study its main parameters. From the right choice parameters depend not only on the efficiency of the furnace, but also on the fire safety of the bathhouse and human health. Each boiler manufacturer gives recommendations on the diameter and height of the chimney, depending on technical indicators; they must be followed as much as possible. Don’t think that the stronger the draft, the better the chimney.
Let's look at the main problems of chimneys.
- Insufficient traction. With weak draft, a limited amount of oxygen enters the firebox, the combustion process slows down, calorific value the furnace drops sharply. In addition, there is a risk of gases entering the room, wrong sizes chimneys often cause back draft.
- Too much traction. Hot gases do not have time to give off heat to the furnace, and the fuel begins to “heat the atmosphere.”
Chimneys must meet the requirements of SNiP 2.04.05–91 and DBN V.2.5–20–2001; by the way, they require supply ventilation in the premises. This means that small-sized baths should receive Fresh air. It should be noted that our compatriots very rarely comply with this requirement - they save heat.
There are two calculation options: complex and simplified, but they all take into account the amount of oxygen required to ensure combustion of the fuel.
More important point. To prevent the formation of condensation on the walls of the chimney, the temperature of the gases at the outlet of the chimney must exceed +120°C. Condensation on the inside of the pipe causes soot retention, which quickly reduces draft and requires frequent cleaning.
Optimal characteristics of chimneys
- D – chimney diameter;
- Vr – volume of air.
To calculate, you need to know the firebox area (F) and the chimney area f, divide the first value by the second and determine the percentage. For example, the ratio of the chimney cross-section to the firebox cross-section is 10%. This means that the minimum chimney height is round section is 7 meters, square is 9 meters, and rectangular is 11 meters. The difference in height compensates for the vortex resistance created by each type of chimney.
You must understand that these values only apply to a straight pipe, which is difficult to achieve in a sauna. For the most part, chimney pipes have various turns, this negatively affects draft. To accurately calculate a specific chimney with various curvatures, you will have to invite a “professor”, and we advise you to slightly increase the resulting diameter. All calculations were made with a large margin, plus some increase - this is quite enough for a stove operating on solid fuel.
Several Yet practical advice by chimneys
| Advice | Illustration |
|---|---|
| If a residential building is heated with wood, the rules recommend checking the draft annually before the start of the heating season. |
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| If necessary, the chimney is cleaned. In practice, cleaning is done no more than once every 10–15 years. The baths are heated mainly once a week. Accordingly, chimneys need to be cleaned much less often. Conclusion - you shouldn’t make special ones complex structures for the cleaning. |
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| The main “enemy” of the chimney is wet firewood. During combustion, they evaporate a lot of water, the temperature of the gases drops significantly. There is always condensation inside the chimney, to which soot sticks. In such conditions, the chimney may not last even one season. Conclusion - use only dry firewood. |
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| To increase the temperature in the bath metal pipe The chimney can be connected to several elbows - the heat transfer area increases significantly, the bathhouse warms up faster. |
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| Try not to lead the chimney through the roof; it is much easier to place it at the end of the bathhouse. In this way, it will be possible not only to reduce installation time, but also to eliminate the risk of leaks on the roof. |
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Chimneys can be brick, ceramic or sandwich pipes (double). Let's consider the installation of each of these types.
Laying brick chimneys
First, familiarize yourself with the structure of a brick chimney. This is the existing standard, but for a bathhouse you can simplify the design a little at your discretion. Of course, one should simplify wisely; changes should not cause the structure to self-destruct or lack the necessary traction.
Brick chimney installation
It is better to do the laying from the stove to the ceiling on clay solution, above you can use cement-sand, on above the roof only cement-sand.
Brick prices
How to install a chimney?
Step 1. Make markings for the chimney on the ceiling and roof, the holes must be strictly vertical, use a plumb line or level. Cut holes to the calculated dimensions. Prepare sawhorses and solution.
Step 2. Start laying out the top part. It is placed on the prepared place of the furnace; the nominal diameter of the passage should ensure stable draft under different climatic conditions and furnace firing modes.
Important note - make the internal passage as smooth as possible, immediately seal the seams. Any irregularities cause turbulence in the air flow; a large number of irregularities can significantly impair traction. Even with normal nominal flow rates, the thrust will be insufficient.
Check the position of each row; it is impossible to correct mistakes made during laying; the bricks will have to be removed. In order to constantly control the verticality of the chimney, stretch the thread between the corner of the first row of the nozzle and the corner of the hole in the ceiling. This simple device will allow you to lay bricks vertically. The thickness of the chimney is half a brick, which is enough for a bathhouse.
Chimney- order
Step 3. Laying fluff. This unit not only protects the ceiling covering from spontaneous combustion, but rather serves as an element for fixing the chimney. Fluffing is the expansion of the outer walls of a structure; to increase their stability, you need to use pieces of building reinforcement. The fittings should not extend into the chimney opening and be visible from the outside.
Fluff sizes 
Every new row should protrude slightly (by a quarter) above the previous one; after three rows, the width of the chimney should be one brick. The widest point should be at the level of the ceiling covering.
Step 4. A very important step. The chimney needs to be secured. To do this, nail the edged boards close to the fluff around the entire perimeter. They will hold the chimney and will not allow it to sway during wind loads. The boards are nailed onto the upper ceiling covering. The ideal option is that the fluff is placed close to ceiling beams, but such a situation rarely occurs.
Step 5. We need to turn the fluff into a riser again. Gradually reduce the outer perimeter of the chimney. So lay the chimney before covering the roof.
Step 6. Otter. This structure serves to drain rainwater. The size of the riser is a quarter of a brick. You need to lay it using the same technology as fluff. In order to inner dimensions the chimney has not been changed, use special thin inserts. The height of the otter depends on the angle of the roof. The main condition is that the otter should start from the bottom roofing covering and protrude two rows above the top point.
Step 8 Sealing the joint between the otter and the roof covering. Do all sealing work very carefully, select a specific method and additional elements depends on the type of roofing. There is a huge amount various methods, the decision is made on the spot, taking into account the maximum number of existing factors.
Brick chimneys are among the most complex and expensive types of chimneys, modern materials and technologies make it possible to install simpler, but no less effective structures.
How to install a sandwich chimney
New designs look great, are quickly installed, and have a long service life. All operational characteristics are actually high level. The only drawback is that the price of these structures is at the same high level.
Manufacturers complete their products with a full set of additional elements: elbows, tees, clamps, plugs, ceiling-passage units, heads, protective screens. The specific choice of additional materials should be made taking into account the design features of the chimney.
One of the advantages of a sandwich chimney is the presence of a layer of insulation that protects the outer pipe from overheating. In addition, this layer allows the inner tube to heat up quickly, which minimizes the amount of condensation, which prevents soot from sticking to its walls.
Sandwich chimney installation algorithm
| Step, No. | Illustration | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1 |
| Using a plumb line, mark where the pipe exits through the ceiling and roof, and make holes. Do not forget to leave a distance between the sandwich pipe and wooden structures ceiling approximately ten centimeters around the perimeter of the hole. For thermal insulation, use mineral wool or glass wool, carefully cover the entry point of the pipe into the ceiling. Do not be afraid that the mineral wool will become damp; the high temperature of the pipe will quickly dry it out. |
| Step 2 |
| Take all dimensions and determine the installation location of the unloading unit. It is made in the attic of the bathhouse; it takes on the load of the pipe coming out from the ceiling. In addition, the unloading unit does not allow lateral vibrations to occur. If you have a large distance between the attic floor and the roof, then you need to install an unloading unit; if the distance does not exceed 1.5 meters, then no additional stops are needed. The unloading unit consists of metal corners and installation elements. Metal corners are fixed to the legs rafter system, make the fastening as reliable as possible. |
| Step 3 |
| Install a starter sandwich on the outlet pipe of the stove; it should fit tightly into the pipe; select the dimensions at the time of purchase or change the diameter of the smoke outlet pipe from the stove. |
| Step 4 |
| Please note: the inner pipe must fit into the outlet of the oven, and not cover it. All individual pipe sections are inserted into one another; transitions and bends must be additionally secured with clamp clamps. |
| Step 5 |
| Where the pipe passes through the ceiling should be placed ceiling cutting to close the outlet hole in the ceiling and give the structure stability. A pipe of slightly larger diameter (feeder) than the diameter is welded to the ceiling groove external pipe sandwich, thereby increasing the abutment area and eliminating deformation during the occurrence of strong lateral loads. The passage allows the sandwich chimney to move up/down and prevents lateral vibrations. In order to minimize heat loss through leaks, it is recommended to use mineral wool. Place it under the ceiling groove and tighten it tightly to the ceiling with screws or nails. |
| Step 6 |
| Make holes in the sheathing and roofing. Next, proceed to sealing the chimney outlet, use a roof penetration for this. All joints must be coated with sealant. If you wish and have free time, you can put an additional sheet on the cover. The waves must match; secure it with self-tapping screws and rubber sealing washers. Treat all accessible and “suspicious” cracks with sealant. The chimney outlet should be 50 cm above the level of the roof covering. |
| Step 7 |
| Install a fungus at the top of the chimney. |
How can one notice experienced master, the installation algorithm is significantly simplified. We did this specifically to speed up and reduce the cost of work. At the same time, the functionality and safety of the chimney has not deteriorated. You can, of course, install spark arresters and deflectors, thermal fungi and weather vanes, and other parts. If you have the desire and money, install it.
Video - Sandwich pipe chimney
Video - Chimney installation
New systems are characterized by high performance and performance, are very reliable and beautiful, and are relatively easy to install. They consist of three parts: an internal ceramic pipe, a layer of insulation and external facing ceramic bricks of a special profile. The ceramics have holes in the corners for installing metal fittings. At a higher price than the sandwich chimney, manufacturers produce large quantities various types ceramic chimneys, different appearance and design features.
Do not require additional protection of wooden architectural elements. Disadvantage - they can only be erect. We will look at the easiest way to install chimneys of these types in a bathhouse.
Step 1. Prepare the installation site, it should be level. Chimneys can be installed on a separate foundation near the stove or on the upper surface of the stove, it all depends on the characteristics of the bathhouse. For masonry you need to use a special glue; the solution does not provide sufficient strength.
Prepare metal reinforcement ≈ 1 meter long, the diameter of the reinforcement is within the limits. 5÷10 mm. With its help, we will additionally fix the structure, this will make it possible to completely eliminate violations of the integrity of the chimney. Make holes in the ceiling and roof; there is no need to provide a margin of size; a ceramic chimney will perfectly protect wooden elements from high temperatures.
Step 2. Install the first two halves of the ceramic, lubricate the lock with glue, check the position of the halves, and align them if necessary. Insert metal reinforcement approximately one meter high into the side holes. The gaps between the reinforcement and the ceramics need to be filled with glue. You should not try to completely fill the hole; it is enough for the glue to connect the reinforcement and ceramics in several places.
Step 3. Wrap thermal insulation around the ceramic pipe, pull it slightly to the pipe with metal wire or a special clamp. Do not tighten too much, do not allow the heat insulator to shrink. As a rule, a layer of pressed mineral wool is used as a heat insulator.
Step 4. Insert the pipe into the hole in the ceramic and check its position. To speed up the process, you can immediately wrap all ceramic pipes with insulation; the number of pipes should correspond to the height of the chimney.
Step 5. Place the second ceramic on the glue and check the position again. Now you need to insert another pipe. It is placed in the socket first on the glue. It is difficult to get to the lower bell; you need to make some basic adjustments. Take a small plastic bag made of thick film and cut off one corner. It should look like a package that women use when spreading cream on cakes. Through the cut corner, the glue will lie exactly in the pipe socket. Remove the remaining glue from the inner surface of the pipe immediately, do not allow any drips to appear. They swirl the air currents and significantly worsen the draft of the chimney.
Step 6. Repeat the described operations, constantly monitoring the position of the chimney. If the length of the protruding reinforcement becomes shorter than the height of one block, insert new rods into the holes. Exit the chimney to the attic of the bathhouse.
Step 7 Carefully seal the gaps between the chimney and ceiling coverings. For these purposes, you can use ordinary wooden skirting boards or decorative baguette.
Step 8 Reinforce the chimney in the attic. Cut the boards to fit the opening, lay them around the perimeter of the chimney and nail them firmly to the attic flooring. If the height of the attic does not exceed one and a half meters, then such fixation is sufficient. If the height is greater, you will have to make another structure to fix the vertical position of the chimney. Secondary fixation is performed to rafter legs as high as possible. You can make stops from wood or use metal corners. Choose a specific design taking into account the location of the chimney exit and the characteristics of the truss system of the bathhouse.
Step 9 Seal the roof where the chimney exits. Select the sealing method and materials depending on the characteristics of the roofing. These works in themselves do not require great skill; they only require attention and strict implementation of all technological operations. For sealing, you can purchase factory-made additional elements or make them yourself. We recommend choosing the first option; the roof is not the place where you can experiment. All leaks inevitably cause big problems.
Video - Installation of a ceramic chimney
Video - How to install a ceramic chimney
We strongly recommend that if you have only seen brick and trowel on TV, do not immediately start laying a chimney. Lay out at least 10 rows of bricks on the ground, “teach your hand and eye”, learn how to tie, widen and narrow the wall. And further. Don’t read articles that start with the words “it’s very easy to make a brick chimney yourself.” Such articles are written by those who have not done anything themselves and have not seen how others do it.
It’s better to practice laying a chimney in advance without using mortar
After completing all the work, you need to check the “functionality” of your design. For brick kilns This is not easy with brick chimneys. At first there will never be any draft; the stove and chimney must “dry and heat up.” If it’s summer and you have time, open the windows in the bathhouse, the blower and furnace doors in the stove, and the dampers in the chimney. In this position, the chimney should dry for about two weeks.
If you don’t have time, then heat with wood; it should only be completely dry. You need to heat it every day, but without too much enthusiasm, do not throw away a large amount of firewood. Take only a few dry logs for each fire. After the wood burns out, do not close the firebox and valve, let the masonry dry until the next day.
When designing a bathhouse, it is important to provide a well-equipped chimney so that combustion products can easily leave the room without creating a danger for those steaming. How to remove a pipe from a bathhouse through the ceiling correctly with your own hands, step by step? We will consider this issue in this article.
One of the options for venting the chimney is to vent it through the ceiling space and roof. This option is more reliable and durable.
To make such a chimney, you can use different types of materials, but, in any case, you must follow the rules of finishing technology.
Types of pipes
Today, several types of chimney pipes are used:
Increasingly, people are beginning to pay attention to more expensive options for chimney finishing, preferring reliability and safety. Conventional metal chimneys can cause a fire in the room, while a brick pipe or sandwich chimney reliably protects the bathhouse from fire.
Rules for installing a chimney pipe
There are several rules that should be followed when installing a chimney:
- Before installation, it is important to carefully plan its location;
- the section of pipe located horizontally from the furnace to the insert should not be more than 1 meter;
- a metal pipe must have a gap of at least 1.5 m to flammable finishing elements;
- the chimney should be installed so that its cut does not fall on the leeward zone. This will significantly reduce the force of natural traction;
- In the gas duct, provision should be made for cleaning the pipe, including from condensate.
Professionals also advise protecting the single-wall pipe with a layer of thermal insulation material.
Basalt fiber is most often used for this. From the outside, the insulation layer is covered with a casing made of galvanized steel. This will prevent condensation from forming and protect the attic from fire.
Stages of installing chimneys in the ceiling
Conventionally, the process of installing a chimney pipe in the ceiling space can be divided into several stages.
Stage 1: Design
You must first create detailed plan chimney location.
It is important that the chimney is located conveniently for steamers, is not located too close to the load-bearing beams and rafters, and also provides the necessary clearance to flammable finishing materials.
Stage 2: Purchase of a chimney and necessary materials
At the design stage, it is also worth deciding what type of chimney will be installed in your bathhouse. Once the choice is made, you can safely go shopping. Don’t forget to also check with the consultants in the store what Additional materials will be needed to install the chimney.
Stage 3: Marking the ceiling surface for the chimney opening
In order to correctly determine the location of the future chimney, you will need a construction kit, with which we mark the place where the pipe outlet from the stove should be located.
Stage 4: Cut a hole for the pipe
Using the markings made earlier, we make a hole in ceiling surface for the future chimney. It’s not scary if the hole is a couple of centimeters larger than it should be.
On the inside, the gaps will be closed with a special box, and on the attic side, the gaps can be insulated with stone wool or other suitable material.
Stage 5: Marking the roof for the pipe
This is no less important stage work, which involves marking the roof surface for the chimney. The fact is that the roof surface usually has a slope. Accordingly than more slope roof, the larger the area of the hole cut for the chimney should be.
Stage 6: Preparing the hole in the roof
The hole in the roof is cut out in the form of an oval, and the greater the slope, the larger area oval To close the hole from the street side, special rubber seals are subsequently used.
When choosing a sealant, it is very important to consider the slope of the roof.
Stage 7: Installation of the chimney
When choosing a metal chimney you must:
The asbestos sheet is pre-moistened in water to avoid cracks and breaks when wrapping, and is also wrapped with wire on top to prevent the material from slipping.
In a steam room, the resulting hole is covered with a thin metal sheet or asbestos to reduce heat exchange between the chimney and finishing. On top of the metal sheet you can fill it with expanded clay or put basalt insulation.
To cover a hole in the roof rubber compressor will not be suitable as it will not withstand high temperatures. A sheet of metal should be used, which is laid over the hole, and the resulting cracks should be sealed with rope asbestos, generously soaked in cement mortar.
Sandwich chimney
The easiest to install would be a sandwich chimney, which is easy to install and ensures the fire safety of the building.
Sandwich pipes usually consist of several metal sheets, between which fire-resistant material is laid.
Work plan:
- a unit is installed on the roof of the bathhouse to tightly fix the chimney pipe;
- the pipe is installed in the prepared hole in the roof;
- the space formed between the sandwich pipe and pipes of larger diameter is filled with sand or expanded clay;
- if using pipe bigger size it is undesirable, you should use a box for sandwich pipes, the cavity of which is also filled with expanded clay;
It is important to maintain the interval from the sandwich pipe to the finishing materials. Under no circumstances should they touch each other so as not to create a fire hazard.
Brick chimney
The most reliable and preferable, but also quite expensive, design is a brick chimney. Before installing it, you need to carefully plan everything, not forgetting the fact that installing such a chimney in small baths is impractical.
Work plan:
- a hole is made for the pipe, the diameter of which should exceed the diameter of the pipe by 20 cm;
- then the chimney is discharged through the roof surface and insulated with a metal sheet;
- the structure is sealed by placing the edge of the metal sheet under the roof;
- then a metal umbrella is attached to the installed pipe, protecting it from moisture;
- The final finishing of the chimney is to apply heat-resistant paint to it, which will protect the metal parts from corrosion.
Having completed the installation outside, we proceed to installation inside the steam room.
First, the box is insulated with basalt and lined with foil insulator, and the first chimney element adjacent to the stove is installed.
Then the second chimney link is installed, and the box is filled with expanded clay. Afterwards, all remaining segments are fixed, and a metal umbrella is installed.
This completes the work on installing the chimney through the ceiling. As you can see, this is not such a complicated step-by-step procedure, which, however, requires certain theoretical knowledge and professional experience.
In any case, with a little determination you can do this work independently, without the help of professionals.
Useful videos on removing the chimney from the bathhouse
Theoretically, the combustion of any fuel is accompanied by the release of carbon dioxide and water, but in practice this is far from the case. Insufficient combustion of fuel, even if it is ideal, results in the formation of soot and carbon monoxide. In addition, the combustion materials themselves are far from ideal and contain a large amount of impurities that will be added to the indoor air in the form of combustion products.
All this together will not only pollute the bathhouse and create a stench, but also a threat to human life, since carbon monoxide is poisonous. Poisoning with it can have serious consequences and can even be fatal. Therefore, the real way out of the situation is a chimney. It's pretty simple and useful device, providing natural removal of combustion products and access of oxygen to the combustion zone. In this article we will look at the main types of chimneys such as steel, ceramic, glass, sandwich. And we'll talk from how to make a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands step by step instructions and video. So, where to start?
Choosing a chimney for a bath: criteria
Choosing a chimney for a bathhouse is a rather serious undertaking. We can say with some confidence that choosing a stove is much easier. The furnace equipment market is represented by a wide range of products, so choosing a furnace will not be particularly difficult. The chimney is a separate component, a complete system, to which increased demands are placed.
If the installation of a chimney is not taken with due responsibility, then a lack of rarefaction may occur in the smoke channel or, as people say, reverse thrust. Which will prevent the removal of combustion products, resulting in smoke, which, in turn, can cause a fire. Therefore, the safety of your building, and effective work stove equipment directly depends on how well the chimney is manufactured and installed. Nowadays, chimneys are made of concrete, ceramic, steel, brick and even glass.
The chimney must be strong and durable. Be resistant to the influence of high temperature conditions when burning fuel, remove smoke under conditions low temperatures, counteract the influence of condensation products, and also comply with regulations fire safety. Now it’s worth thinking about the option of a chimney duct. Will it satisfy the requirements set by the manufacturer of the already selected furnace unit?
Thanks to the development of science and technology, a significant number of chimney channels have been developed, but the classic of the genre was and remains a brick chimney. This option has long been time-tested and is still used to this day. But it was replaced by alternative devices made from new materials that had not previously been used in the manufacture of chimneys. For example, sandwiches, ceramic and glass chimneys. Now, before deciding on the choice of material for the chimney of the future bathhouse, you need to study the technical and operational indicators of the equipment that you decided to install. After all, when installing it, you need to take into account the internal cross-section of the chimney, its length and height. What material should I use for smoke channel- this is a different choice.
Material for the chimney in the bathhouse
Brick chimney
As already mentioned, brick used to be the main material in the manufacture of chimneys. The advantage of building a brick chimney has always been the low cost of the material. Construction was the most economical and low-cost. Sand and clay, water and brick are what have always been within reach. Unfortunately, at this time, finding a furnace specialist is associated with certain difficulties. And in a brick chimney, quality operation directly depends on the professionalism of the stove maker. Therefore, the price for the services of a qualified specialist has increased significantly. Rectangular section contributes to the creation of local turbulence in the smoke channel and leads to its clogging. It needs to be cleaned at least once every six months. However, if a brick chimney is built correctly, then this is a guarantee that it will last for many years. But a brick chimney is not always suitable for installation in a bathhouse. First of all, from the financial costs of installing it.
Steel chimney
The time of using brick as the only material for smoke ducts is over. An alternative solution was metal. Application of heat resistant of stainless steel in the arrangement of smoke channels for a bathhouse was a breakthrough in smoke exhaust technology. Two-pipe designs have gained wide popularity. They are two pipes different diameters with non-flammable insulation between them. The insulation protects the chimney from excessive condensation and its effect on the pipe. Such structures are called sandwich. As a rule, the outer pipe is made of either stainless steel or galvanized steel. Galvanized steel is more a budget option, which does not affect performance characteristics. Inner tube is made only from heat-resistant stainless steel with a thickness of 1 mm or more. When choosing a pipe, pay special attention to this parameter. Thermal insulator based on basalt rocks that can withstand high temperatures. Such smoke channels have a cylindrical shape, which makes them less susceptible to contamination.
Ceramic chimney for a bath
A new material that has recently appeared on the furnace equipment market is ceramic fireclay pipes. They have absorbed all the advantages steel structures. At the same time, they are characterized by the reliability and long service life of brick smoke ducts. They consist of an internal fireclay pipe, a heat-insulating layer of basalt rocks and an outer casing made of stainless steel or lightweight foam concrete. The price of such a pipe is much higher than steel chimney, but thanks to the long service life, the cost more than pays off. This material competes brick structures in terms of reliability, durability and fire safety. In principle, this is the same pipe; assembling it is as easy as steel sandwiches. Although in some cases it requires reinforcement of the foundation. There are special elements for assembling pipes into a finished structure. When purchasing a ceramic pipe chimney kit for your specific application, all of these elements and materials are included in the delivery. The cost of ceramic chimneys is approximately an order of magnitude higher than steel sandwiches.
Glass chimney
The ideal option for chimney systems is a glass smoke channel. This material has enormous advantages: absolute absence of corrosion, moisture resistance, low thermal inertia. But the cost of such chimneys is very high, and if you add the huge installation costs, then such material simply has not found distribution due to the enormous price. Although some optimists claim that glass chimneys are the future and the time will come, when all smoke channels will be made of glass.
I would also like to dwell on chimneys made from asbestos pipes. This is a material that cannot be used for the construction of chimneys. It is carcinogenic and fire hazard. An asbestos-cement smoke duct can cause a fire in your bathhouse.
To summarize what has been said, we can come to the following conclusion:
· Chimney made of brick, labor-intensive installation, requiring certain qualifications of performers.
· Steel chimney from pipes - not expensive, but has a short service life.
· A chimney made of ceramic pipes is durable, but the cost is much higher than that of steel chimney structures.
· A glass chimney has virtually no disadvantages, but the price of the material and installation costs are expensive. Didn't get distribution.
· Chimney ducts cannot be built from asbestos cement.
The design of the chimney in the bathhouse
By location, smoke channels for baths can be divided into the following:
· internal, the chimney passes through inner space buildings;
· external, the chimney duct from the stove equipment is directed outside the room and passes through an open space.
Advantage internal location smoke removal is the use of the temperature of combustion waste to heat the sauna room. This design facilitates the creation of draft in the chimney duct.
The external structure of the chimney facilitates the installation of the structure, but requires additional fuel costs, since the heat of the smoke heats the outdoor space, and not the bathhouse. In addition, there is an urgent issue about the formation of condensation and soot in the chimney duct. To avoid these problems, it must be additionally insulated.
Structural elements of the chimney system
The ideal design of a chimney duct in a bathhouse is a straight structure, running strictly vertically upward from the stove. This chimney is made of brick. A special feature of this oven is its location. As a rule, it is installed in the middle of the bathhouse structure, taking into account the location of the beams and rafters.
The advantage of steel and ceramic chimneys is the presence of additional elements. They allow the stove to be placed almost anywhere in the room, and if there are obstacles, they make it possible to design a chimney duct with a bend or a horizontal part in order to bypass the obstacles encountered.
But it is necessary to take into account that the total distance of the horizontal or inclined section should be no more than 1 meter. If this size is exceeded, it will negatively affect the operation of the chimney duct. Products of incomplete combustion of fuel will collect in the horizontal section, and the movement of smoke will be difficult. The maximum number of turns allowed is no more than two.
The connection of horizontal and inclined sections is ensured by the presence of various shaped parts of chimneys. When installing them, it is necessary to initially resolve the issue of further cleaning of the chimney. The knee is where soot accumulates. Here the output is considered to be an element such as a tee. The presence of a removable glass in it allows you to clean the chimney easily and without problems.
The tightness of the connection between pipe joints is ensured not only by good traction, but also prevents smoke from entering the bathhouse. For safe and fireproof passage through the chimney wooden ceiling and roofs, special pipes are used. A pipe is inserted at the intersection.
Wall brackets are used to fasten steel pipes, which are not light in weight. Installation of fasteners is carried out at a distance of no more than two meters from each other. Where the chimney exits to the roof, a roof cut must be made to prevent precipitation from entering the bathhouse.
The entry of rain and snow into the smoke duct is prevented by installing a protective fungus.
Chimney design and installation
When carrying out the design and installation of a chimney yourself, you must:
1. Choose the cross-section of the smoke duct pipe wisely. Small size will not allow the complete removal of fuel combustion products. The wide cross-section will ensure the rapid passage of smoke, which will not allow the bathhouse room to warm up. This will increase the time and amount of fuel spent on heating. The cross-sectional size of the pipe depends on the power of the furnace. Its indicator ranges from 140 to 270 mm.
2. Optimal shape chimney - round. Smoke passes through this channel easily. It is less clogged and easier to clean.
3. If you place the chimney closer to interior wall baths - this will improve thermal insulation.
4. The height of the chimney duct is indicated in the stove equipment passport. But if the instructions do not contain specific dimensions, and you install the structure yourself, then you should install a chimney of at least 4.5 m.
5. The height distance from the roof ridge to the chimney head must be at least half a meter.
6. The smoke channel is equipped with a damper to adjust the draft.
7. As additional protection for walls and ceilings in the chimney area, it is recommended to use basalt wool, copper sheet or other non-combustible materials.
8. To increase fire protection and prevent fire at the point where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to increase its thickness with non-combustible materials by at least 5 cm.
How to make a chimney in a bay with your own hands: step-by-step instructions
Chimney installation can be divided into several stages.
Stage No. 1. Preparatory.
Before you begin installing a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands, it is necessary to protect the places where the smoke channel passes through the ceilings. This area will require application special element, which is called a through pipe.
Stage 1. We start by preparing the pipe. We place a layer of basalt wool along its outer surface.
Stage 2. Then we move on to insulating the inner surface. We mark the installation point on the ceiling and use standard dimensions to prepare a rectangular hole for the future smoke duct.
Stage 3. We install an additional insulating layer where the pipe touches the ceiling, then install the pipe.
Stage 4. A minimum gap must be left between it and the smoke channel for additional heat removal.
Stage No. 2. Roof work
Now let's start cutting the roof.
Stage 5. We take measurements from the outside and inside, not forgetting to take into account the slope of the roof.
Stage 6. From the inside in the roof we cut out the necessary hole for the chimney.
Stage 7. We take galvanized sheeting, with a pre-made hole for the smoke duct, and attach it to the roof.
Stage No. 3. Installation work.
We propose to consider installation operations using the example of assembling the most popular dual-circuit system.
Important point! The chimney assembly is performed only from the bottom up.
Stage 8. We begin connecting the chimney from the stove. We connect the sandwich module to the special outlet of the oven. We do not insulate the area near the heating device, because the temperature in this place is too high. Regardless of the quality of the chimney material, due to maximum temperature conditions, this section will fail within a short time.
Stage 9. We insert each subsequent internal module into the previous one. Then put on the outer pipe. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the new module is connected to the previous narrow end. This will ensure that the condensate formed during operation will flow freely down the pipe and will not flow into the joints.
Stage 10. After installing all structural elements, we fasten the tees with prepared fasteners and seal all connections with clamps.
Stage 11. Upon completion of work, remove the protective coating and apply a fire-resistant sealant that retains its properties even when high temperatures. And so, you built a chimney in your bathhouse entirely with your own hands!
Chimney cleaning
The bathhouse was built, the chimney was installed. You enjoy the delights of the bath ceremony. Like any device, the smoke duct requires Maintenance. In our case, this is cleaning it. Over time, a layer of soot forms on the walls of the chimney, which impairs draft and can cause a fire, which in turn can lead to a fire.
The most common and in an effective way is mechanical cleaning. To implement it, you will need special rods, preferably dismountable ones with brushes, weights, and sometimes even a sledgehammer. This procedure is quite labor-intensive, and most importantly, dirty. Therefore, before cleaning the smoke duct, it is necessary to remove all things from the bathhouse premises and cover the walls, ceilings and floors with plastic wrap.
Another way to clean a chimney is to burn off the soot. To do this, you need to heat the stove with wood that creates good draft and intense heat, for example, aspen. This will cause the soot to burn out and be carried out in the form of ash through the chimney.
IN Lately gaining popularity chemicals for cleaning chimneys. But they are no longer a means of cleaning, but preventative measure, to increase the time period between cleanings.
Mistakes during chimney construction
It is worth paying attention to a number of mistakes that are made when building chimneys by non-professionals:
- Use of unsuitable materials such as asbestos and aluminum. This may cause a fire.
- An unauthorized change in the diameter of the chimney can reduce efficiency or destroy the structure of the bathhouse.
- Combining several chimney systems into one.
Several more typical mistakes in chimney construction are shown in the video presented.
Sometimes it seems that you can quickly build a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands, without anyone’s advice. But the construction of a chimney is quite a responsible procedure, requiring compliance with the rules, the availability of skills and the study of modern techniques. This will save you from mistakes, and the chimney you built in the bathhouse will serve reliably and for a long time.
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Our bathhouse is associated with light steam and the pleasant crackling of wood in the stove, hot stones in the heater and the smell of a freshly brewed broom. But living fire is connected with smoke, and if you don’t make the pipe correctly, you will get poisoned carbon monoxide possible in 20–30 minutes. The pipe in the bathhouse is planned before the construction of the bathhouse; it must be assembled efficiently and correctly. This is the only way the bathhouse will be safe and will not cause harm to its owners. We will tell our readers how to remove a pipe in a bathhouse with your own hands, what features and subtleties you need to know.
The pipe in the bathhouse is removed in two ways: inside and outside the structure.
Planning a chimney in a bathhouse is always associated with the choice of design. It is necessary to understand all types, know how to correctly calculate the size, display and install. Before drawing up the project, it is necessary to briefly study these aspects.
What pipes are used for baths?
The chimney in a bathhouse can have two devices: external and internal. Each has its positive and negative sides:
- External arrangement is less fire hazardous, do-it-yourself installation and fastening is also easier. The disadvantages are that the pipe goes outside and heat loss increases.
- The interior arrangement is complex, but all the heat gets into the bathhouse. The main disadvantage is a high degree of fire hazard.
The sandwich pipe is easy to install with your own hands. Design flaws can be prevented by using high-quality insulation. We advise you not to save on time and effort and install an internal chimney; although it is more difficult to install, it will reduce the cost of heating the steam room structure. For small bathhouse at a summer cottage, it is easier to remove the external chimney. In any case, the choice is up to the user.
Various materials are used for the chimney: red brick, ceramics or metal. They withstand temperatures above +100 °C and are durable.
It’s easier to buy a ready-made sandwich chimney. It is easy to assemble and install, and the internal asbestos lining makes the device safe.
Design of external and internal chimneys
The design of the chimney is selected depending on the characteristics of the selected stove. The pipe package includes several units, each with its own functional features. For a bath with brick stove You can use brick, metal, ceramics, and for a metal stove - a ceramic or metal chimney. You can use brick, but laying the pipe yourself will be difficult. You will have to hire a bricklayer - a stove maker.
The main components of the chimney (design lists start from top to bottom):
- Head (probe) - prevents sparks from hitting the roof and neighboring buildings, as well as from flooding during rain.
- Master flush.
- PPU ( Ceiling assembly where it goes through).
- Chimney made of double sandwich or brick.
- Single iron pipe.
When choosing a brick structure, you need to be prepared for complex cleaning and maintenance. A massive foundation is needed for the stove, since a brick chimney weighs a lot, and the entire load will fall on the stove.
A simpler assembly that does not require special knowledge is a ready-made structure made from sandwich pipes. It consists of a double structure between which asbestos is laid. More heat-saving and lighter. They are made up of individual elements: elbow, deflectors, tees, rain protection, adapters and gate. Fastened using brackets that are mounted with clamps.
What to pay attention to during installation
It is necessary to remove a pipe in a bath taking into account a number of its features (material, design). The installation is influenced by sanitary and environmental standards, the material from which the bathhouse was built. Do not forget that traditionally this is a tree.
Compliance with certain rules and regulations will make the structure reliable and safe:
- Any one must be insulated with environmentally friendly and non-flammable material: expanded clay, asbestos, stone wool.
- Thermal insulation of the place where the chimney passes is necessary only with foil material. It is often confused with materials covered with Dacron foil, but it is highly flammable and melts at temperatures above 300 °C.
- The chimney is installed so that the structure does not touch any wooden elements: floor beams, roof, walls. To insulate the joints, they are sheathed with metal sheets. The outlet area can only be insulated with non-flammable mineral wool or expanded clay mound.
- Inside the ceilings you need to install a special iron box, into which the structure is placed and covered with expanded clay. There is no need to make a box for the sandwich.
- On top, to avoid contact with the roof, a casing of metal sheets is made around it.
- All joints and seams can be sealed with special iron foil tape or foil.
How to choose the size and shape of a chimney
Diagram of the pipe outlet in the bathhouse.When designing a chimney in a bathhouse, you need to adhere to the standard shape and size. The best option cylindrical shape. Related simple form Since any bend in the elbow will additionally create areas for the accumulation of ash and soot, the structure will have to be cleaned frequently. And cleaning a structure with numerous bends is more difficult.
The main dimensions that need to be determined are the diameter and height of the structure. They must be taken from SNiP.
Bath pipe diameter
The power and choice of stove are directly related to the choice of diameter and height of the chimney. Here are some values for a rectangular and square chimney in the form of a table:
| Furnace power, kW | Chimney diameter, mm |
| Up to 3.5 | 140x140 |
| 3,5–5,2 | 140x200 |
| 5,2–7,2 | 140x270 |
For a round stove, the diameter of the chimney is taken equal to or greater than the outlet of the stove. In order to calculate the diameter, you need to know the formula, which stipulates that for 1 kW of stove power, take at least 8 m2 of pipe. So, for a 20 kW stove, the chimney area will be at least 160 m2. It is at least 14 cm in diameter.
Bathhouse chimney height
The height is calculated depending on the type and height of the roof ridge. Neighboring buildings must also be taken into account, especially if the bathhouse is attached to the main house. According to SNiP, the height of the bath chimney must correspond to the indicators indicated in the table:
For flat roof The height of the smoke exhaust of the bathhouse must be at least 1 m. For a high pipe (more than 1.5 m), it is necessary to install special braces; they will strengthen the structure.
It is important to take into account the moment of the sloping and horizontal elements of the chimney. A length of more than 1 m is unacceptable. The permissible size will prevent soot from accumulating on the walls of the bathhouse pipe and will not interfere with traction.
DIY chimney installation
Before work, you must purchase all the necessary materials and components. All work takes place in stages: preparing holes for the pipe outlet, installing a protective box, assembling the pipe.
Preparing holes for pipe outlets
Do not install a pipe with too much a large number bends. It is better to make holes in a new bathhouse under construction at the stage of assembling the floors and roof. In already assembled structure you'll have to do it from scratch. If installation is chosen inside the bathhouse, then holes are cut out in the ceiling and roof; the external one is provided in one in the wall near the bathhouse stove.
The holes must be sheathed on both sides with sheets of metal 0.5 mm thick. They will protect the surface from fire. The holes are made with a square section of 450x450 mm. Dimensions depend on the sandwich pipe adapter. For a brick chimney, the size of the hole must be equal to the specified width of the chimney masonry. More information about how to properly make a hole in the ceiling of a bathhouse is described in the video:
Manufacturing and installation of a protective box
Factory-made protective box for a sandwich pipe. You can make an adapter for a metal and sandwich pipe with your own hands: Take 2 metal sheets measuring 50x50 cm and cut out an outlet for the pipe in the middle. A box is made from 4 sheets, which is connected by welding. The box is insulated with stone or basalt mineral wool and covered with metal foil. A pipe will be inserted into it, it will protect the ceilings from heating.
Next, attach a metal protective apron to the roof. You can buy it ready-made “Flash Master”. The box is installed in place between the ceiling transitions and screwed in place. For brick pipe There is no need to make a metal protective box. Next, a chimney is installed.
Installation of a chimney
The assembly of the pipe in the bathhouse must be completed by installing an anti-rain fungus. To attach the pipe, you need to drill places for fastenings opposite the chimney outlet hole. The sandwich pipe is made in such a way that all parts are simply installed into each other.
First, the first link from the stove, 50 cm long, is mounted. It is fixed into the prepared holes using metal fasteners to the wall and the stove. Next, the second link is brought out into a metal box. If the diameter of the second link is smaller than the outlet of the first, then use a special adapter.
Having installed the second link, the box is filled with expanded clay into the adapter. If the stove is not located strictly under the hole in the ceiling, then use an elbow. You should not use more than three bends in one pipe design; soot and soot will accumulate in the bathhouse pipe.
A fungus is mounted on top of the pipe; you can make it yourself from a sheet of metal or an old tin can. It's easier to buy ready-made.
Outer pipe It is assembled with one difference: first the elbow is mounted to the wall and only then the main structure. A transition box, insulated and filled with expanded clay, is placed in the wall in the same way. The main pipe goes out from the box to the street. On the outside of the bathhouse, a tee is attached to the pipe, where an inspection with a window is located. They will help clean the building from soot. All parts of the pipe from the outside are attached to the wall in stages. On the façade of the bathhouse, you can only use a double sandwich structure, and only a single one on top of the roof. The wall under the pipe is insulated with metal or asbestos material.
There is no need to rush to assemble the pipe; it is better to carefully secure each link. How fireproof the bathhouse will be depends on how well the bathhouse pipe is installed. Safety is not only important wooden walls and transitions of the bathhouse, but also the people who will use the building. You should not skimp on insulation; it is better to make it high quality from expensive material. This is the only way the steam will be light and the sauna safe.
The chimney is an integral attribute of the steam room, ensuring fire safety, rapid heating, air purity and low fuel consumption. The installation of a chimney in a bathhouse should be approached with all responsibility, because in case of improper installation, the operation of the building will be impossible.
Attention! When making a chimney, you should remember all the nuances of the process, because if the draft force is incorrectly calculated, smoke will enter the room and the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning will increase.
Choosing the right chimney design is already half the success when arranging a bathhouse. All existing species can be divided into two groups.
Attention! Regardless of the chosen design chimney must be installed above the ridge at least 50 cm.
Key points
Any heating device needs a system for removing combustion products. Particular attention should be paid to this system when building a bathhouse - a structure almost entirely made of wood.
1. Material and shape
A brick chimney is the most reliable and safe option, but it is quite difficult to make with your own hands. Moreover, in case of traction failure, re-transfer will be required, which entails additional temporary and material costs. For this reason, it is better to use a simpler option for a steam room - a stainless steel sandwich chimney.
Attention! To ensure good draft and minimal resistance to smoke movement, it is advisable to opt for the design cylindrical. Inner surface at the same time, it should be as smooth as possible - this will prevent the accumulation of soot during operation.
2. Dimensions
The thickness of the chimney walls should be at least 1 mm, the cross-section should be 14 cm. Moreover, the presence of horizontal sections longer than 1 m should not be allowed.
3. Insulation
The quality of insulation directly affects the efficiency of the chimney and the fire safety of the stove. Also good insulation will reduce the amount of condensate formed and protect combustible materials located near the chimney.
- The chimney in the bathhouse must be carefully closed next to the combustion chamber and at the junction with the ceilings. To protect the walls, steel sheets with a fire-resistant coating are used.
- For increasing efficiency A special mesh is installed in the pipe, on which stones are poured. Warming up with smoke, they will additional source heat, which will slightly reduce fuel consumption and heating time of the steam room.
- The chimney is carried out exclusively from the bottom up.
- Each subsequent section of pipe is inserted into the previous one, as a result of which condensate will accumulate inside the system.
- If necessary, the pipe should be easily dismantled (sooner or later it will burn out), so care should be taken to have a removable elbow.
- The chimney pipe above the roof must be covered with a special “umbrella” to protect it from precipitation.
- If possible, installation is carried out away from the walls.
Let's consider the main stages of making a chimney in a bathhouse.
Stage 1. Base for the pipe
Mounted sandwich pipes are installed on a special base built into the furnace body. For this, a heat-resistant - cast iron or ceramic - pipe is used, which is removed above the body from the combustion chamber. A special fitting is put on top of it, to which the chimney itself is connected.
Stage 2. Assembly
As already mentioned, for a bath it is better to use a multilayer stainless steel pipe. Such a pipe consists of:
- outer shell made of stainless steel;
- insulation (mineral wool glued to foil);
- the core is a steel pipe coated with titanium, which is put on the fitting.
Step 1. The first section of pipe is connected to the fitting.
Step 2. The remaining segments are connected to it. For fastening, steel clamps are installed (in increments of 1.5 m, as well as at each corner connection).
Step 3. Holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the ceiling and roof. In this case, you need to leave a small gap: in the roof - 20-25 cm, in the ceiling - 40-50 cm.
Step 4. To insulate the connections, special heat-resistant nozzles or a combination of metal sheet + gasket are used.
Step 5. To ensure heat conservation, an insulated cap is installed on the outside of the roof.
Step 6. External part The pipes are covered with a protective “umbrella” or mesh.
Stage 3. Arranging a passage through the ceiling and roof
As mentioned above, after installing the chimney, you need to seal the remaining holes. This must be done strictly according to the instructions.
Step 1. Cover the ceiling with a sheet from below fireproof material with a round hole in the center. It turns out that the pipe must be passed through this hole during installation. Self-tapping screws are used to secure the material.
Attention! The top of the ceiling does not need to be covered with anything - you just need to cover the “window” covered with a sheet with clay or cover it with granular thermal insulator.
Step 2. The roof is arranged from the outside, the head with the frame is installed. Can also be installed from the inside of the roof a metal sheet with a hole of the appropriate diameter, but this is not necessary.
After arranging the chimney and passages for it, construction can be considered complete.
Video - Installation of the Vulcan sandwich chimney
Common Mistakes
Often during the construction of a chimney, typical mistakes are made, which in the future will affect the efficiency of the system.
Mistake #1. Using the “wrong” materials
The use of materials not intended for chimney construction (asbestos cement, for example, or aluminum) can lead to the most dire consequences. Moreover, even brick is not always suitable for this - if the heating is gas, it will quickly collapse in an acidic environment.
Mistake #2. Combining several chimneys
If you plan to combine several chimneys, then all the necessary engineering calculations should be entrusted to a specialist.
Mistake #3. Independent change of pipe diameter
Whatever the reason for such amateur activity, before starting work you must definitely consult a professional, otherwise the efficiency of the entire system will decrease, and in the worst case, the entire structure will collapse.
Do not neglect the rules and techniques for constructing a chimney in a bathhouse. In the absence of special knowledge and skills, it is better to entrust the work to a professional stove-maker, otherwise mistakes made during installation will be very expensive.
Chimney cleaning
Bathhouses are often heated with solid fuel stoves, as a result of which soot accumulates in the chimney. If there is a deterioration in draft, but there is no visible damage to the chimney body, it means that the pipe is clogged and needs to be cleaned of soot.
- Usually, a weight with a cable or a brush is used for this, but mechanical cleaning, as you know, is impractical, because you have to take everything valuable outside and cover the furniture with rags so that soot does not get on it.
Attention! In this regard, it is better to light aspen wood in the stove - it will create intense draft and knock all the soot out.
Video - Chimney cleaning
conclusions
That's all the nuances of building and cleaning a chimney for a bathhouse. We can only hope that the article was useful and you learned something new from it. And finally, one last piece of advice: experts recommend cleaning the chimney immediately after rain.
