Cutting ceiling rustics. Sealing joints in floor slabs. What are rusts

The result of a high-quality renovation is a beautiful and smooth surface on the ceiling. Otherwise, the impression of all the work done will be crossed out. Let's talk about how to repair rust on the ceiling so that the ceiling has a perfectly flat surface.

In old-built houses, the ceilings have peculiar grooves-recesses, the so-called rustications. In those days, the ceiling leveling technologies that are used today did not yet exist. Therefore, the builders left such special grooves, with the help of which it was possible to decorate the transition from one ceiling slab to another.

It is important to remember: if you decide to eliminate rust on your own, you must remember: not always ceiling tiles fit perfectly. As a rule, there are differences between the ceiling slabs. Therefore, without special surface leveling skills, it is very difficult to achieve ideal surface evenness.

We suggest considering the option of leveling the ceiling using one of two methods of plastering the surface:

  1. With the installation of beacons and plastering of the ceiling surface according to the level.
  2. The method of pulling the solution, usually into a plane. This method is more relevant for ceilings with small differences.
    If the differences between the ceiling slabs are large, then without certain skills it is unlikely to be possible to create a perfectly flat surface.

The main sequence of work for leveling the ceiling

The work of leveling the ceiling involves a comprehensive step by step solution Problems:

  1. Sealing rust on the ceiling, as well as preparing the entire ceiling surface.
  2. If necessary, you need to install a plaster mesh.
  3. Installation of beacons.
  4. Plastering the ceiling.
  5. If necessary.

Required materials and tools

  1. Hammer.
  2. Rotary hammer with a “shovel” attachment.
  3. Chisel.
  4. Overlay spatula (narrow).
  5. The spatula is wide (with a blade width of 45 cm).
  6. Polyacrylic seamless roller, with a pile thickness of at least 11 mm.
  7. Rectangular brush.
  8. Polyurethane foam.
  9. Serpyanka (mesh for reinforcing seams, 20 cm wide).
  10. Skin.
  11. Primer.
  12. Plaster of two types:
    • starting;
    • finishing;
  13. Polyurethane foam.
  14. Construction mixer (with its help it is much easier and faster to prepare solutions).

How to properly seal ceiling rusts

Let's consider the sequence of stages of work on sealing the ceiling rust:

  1. Ceiling rustics must first be expanded in depth and width. To do this, we recommend using a spatula and chisel for small cracks:

A little advice: you need to expand a small rust until construction debris stops falling out of the crack.

Large rust, as a rule, needs to be expanded to 3-5 cm in width, or even more.

A little advice: do not hesitate to open cracks in the ceiling, otherwise finishing ceiling, they will behave inappropriately in the best possible way. It’s better to work hard once and do everything so that later the ceiling does not need additional repairs.

  1. Cleared from construction waste rusts need to be primed. This work is most conveniently done using a regular paint brush. Disadvantage in choosing a primer for construction market No.

A little advice: buy primer (and all finishing materials) from branded, trusted manufacturers. This is a guarantee that the repaired ceiling surface will last for a long time, no unpleasant surprises.

  1. We wipe the rust with a damp cloth after the primer has completely dried.
  2. We apply polyurethane foam inside the seams.
  3. After a 24-hour break, we cut off the mounting foam with a knife.
  4. We re-prime the cut area.
  5. We fill the hollow in place of the rust with plaster, applying it with an overlay spatula. Many novice builders when choosing finishing material, are in doubt about how to repair rust on the ceiling? We recommend choosing dry plaster compositions proven manufacturers whose products have been on the market for more than one year and have positive reviews experienced and novice builders. As an option, we recommend using KNAUF-Rotband plaster to seal up rust.

Please note: the plaster must be applied very tightly.

  1. We wait for the entire layer of plaster to dry completely and apply and plaster the serpyanka along the seam in a single piece.

Tip: adding a primer to the plaster solution increases its strength.

  1. We carry out similar stages of work:
    • on all large cracks in the ceiling;
    • in the corners;
    • at the junctions between the ceiling and the wall.

So, the ceiling rusts have been completely eliminated, now you can start preparing the entire surface.

Rusts are the seams between the floor slabs that are on the ceiling. They can still be seen in many apartments built in Soviet times. Knowing how to seal them, apartment owners will be able to get rid of this type of “decoration”, and the resulting ceiling will be beautiful and smooth. In this article we will look at a technology with which you can easily get rid of rust with your own hands.

What is needed to seal rusts?

To repair rust we will need the following tools and materials:
  • primer;
  • gypsum plaster (for example “Rotband”);
  • several spatulas;
  • mixer to mix the solution;
  • brush.

Preliminary work

Before the process of sealing rusts itself, it is necessary to get rid of the whitewash on the ceiling and thoroughly clean the ceiling seams so that between concrete base And building material there was good grip. We are now talking about whitewashed ceilings, since already painted bases in most cases are free from rust, thanks to the preparatory work before painting with acrylic paint.

Instructions for sealing rust yourself


So we looked at how you can get rid of the “decorations” of Soviet times, which have always been a source of irritation for many people.

When installing interfloor floors from prefabricated reinforced concrete flooring slabs, seams remain between the slabs, which are not sealed flush, but are embroidered - pulled out or cut in the form of rustications. Rusts hide the cracks that form.

Before jointing begins, the seams between the slabs are filled with tow and compacted - the windows are sealed so that the tow is recessed into the seam to a depth of 15-20 mm.

For jointing, a simplified board template is used (Fig. 80, a), one side of which is cut into a “mustache” at an angle of 45°, and in the middle of the board, on both sides, reinforcing wire 10 mm thick is secured with nails. The wire is first bent. You can make a regular, small template (Fig. 80, b). Rusts are pulled out using templates using fresh mortar.

Rice. 80. Templates for drawing or cutting rustications:
a - simplified template, b - regular, c - rustication-half-grater

Rusts can be cut using a special rustication cutter (Fig. 80, c) small sizes with a cutout on the canvas.

A steel plate, curved in the form of a half ring with bent edges, is attached to the cutout.

Holes are punched in the edges for attaching the half-ring to the canvas with nails.

The rules are attached to the ceiling using two or three thin slats 10-15 cm long greater than the height of the room (Fig. 81). The slats are placed at an angle on the floor. First, the ends of the rule 1 are pressed with two slats 2, and then the middle of the rule is pressed with an additional slat. Spring slats firmly hold the rule. If the flooring slabs are accidentally not laid at the same level, then make a second template, with one groove lower than the other. Cement or cement-lime mortar is used to fill the joints. To ensure fast setting, no more than 10% gypsum is added to it.

Rice. 81. Attaching the rule using flexible slats:
1 - rule, 2 - slats

The mortar is filled into the joint flush with the slabs and rubbed well. After this, a mortar is attached to the ceiling so that the rustication is in the center of the seam, a rustication trowel is placed on it, and, pressing it with the necessary force, the steel half-ring is moved forward, cutting off the mortar. This operation is repeated several times until the mortar is completely cut off and rust has formed. The cut rust is corrected and rubbed with a small grater.

A smooth and perfectly finished ceiling surface in your apartment is the result of the renovation. Well made, it immediately catches the eye. Your friends, when evaluating the repairs you have made, will first of all pay attention to the ceiling. If there are noticeable flaws on it, then the entire impression good repair will be smeared. Sealing rust between floor slabs is important detail ceiling repair.

Layout diagram of prestressed reinforcement of the floor slab.

Do this work efficiently, do not be afraid to waste a lot of time and effort; the ceiling you have brought to a magnificent appearance will serve you for many years.

Finding a good plasterer can take a long time. Try to repair the ceiling yourself. To do this, study the entire technology of the process of this work.

Can be used different materials for repairing rustications, but the list of main works is the same for all options.

Order installation stretch ceiling you can, on the website art-master.net.

Floor panel installation diagram.

  1. Removing everything that remains of the old one cement screed and plaster. To do this, use a drill, chisel, or spatula. Clean off old filler.
  2. Clean the surface from dust. Primer deep penetration diluted as stated on the label. The width of the hole to be sealed should correspond to the width of the brush. That is, it should go inside easily.
  3. According to the instructions written on the package, we dilute dry mortar. This is easy to do with a mixer.
  4. All cracks are filled with the solution you prepared. In deep rust, apply several layers of solution. Allow each new layer to dry completely. If the seam is wide enough, use other materials to pre-fill it.
  5. After the solution has dried, coat the entire rust with PVA glue and glue the sickle onto it. Its width should be 2 cm larger than the hole itself. Apply putty to the serpyanka, followed by sanding with fine sandpaper.

Preparation for the process

Monolithic floor slab with cold joint.

Rusts - seams between slabs ceiling. They are very common in houses built in the last century. Sealing rust is mandatory if you want to give the ceiling in your room a decent look. An untidy seam on the ceiling will spoil the entire appearance of the room.

It is impossible to repair the ceiling well if you do not properly repair the rusts between the ceiling slabs. During operation, the house may undergo shrinkage, which often leads to differences and displacement of slabs, and the formation of rust. To properly repair and seal them, you will need the following tools:

  • hammer;
  • chisel;
  • perforator;
  • narrow spatula;
  • metal brush.

To carry out work on sealing these elements between the ceiling slabs, you must purchase hardware store materials needed:

  • polyurethane foam;
  • primer;
  • serpyanka;
  • skin;
  • plaster;
  • gloves, safety glasses.

The work ahead of you will be carried out on the ceiling. If you are not going to change the floor, then cover it with paper, oilcloth or cardboard.

  1. Produce preparatory work. Remove old plaster or whitewash. Take a good look at the seams that you have to seal, determine what work needs to be done to ensure that the seal between the slabs is of high quality.
  2. After inspecting the seams, you begin to prepare them for work. To ensure a high-quality seal, you need to expand them. This is done using the tools that you have prepared.
  3. Small seams between the slabs are simply picked out with a spatula or cut with a chisel. Don’t be afraid to make them wider. Level their walls; to do this, use a hammer drill by inserting a spatula-shaped attachment into it.

The configuration between the floor slabs should resemble a cone; this will make the seal stick much better.

Use a wire brush to clean the seams between the slabs until no more debris comes out.

Preparations for the work of sealing the rusts have been completed.

Sealing rusts

The seams are sealed gypsum plaster. Its price varies from 150 rubles and above, it all depends on its weight.

Make it medium thick, without lumps, evenly kneading.

Some home craftsmen use cement plaster, to which are added polymer additives, but for interior work would be better suited gypsum material. It is flexible and sets quickly, making the work much easier.

Floor slab installation diagram.

  1. Before you start sealing the joints, apply a primer between the floor slabs. Do this with a brush, carefully observing so that there are no unprimed areas left.
  2. Without waiting for it to dry, you start sealing the rust. Applying the solution to a fresh primer will provide excellent adhesion to the concrete surface.
  3. Apply the solution with small strokes of the spatula, do it with light pressure, try to make sure that the solution fills the entire cavity between the plates.
  4. Remove all excess mortar with a spatula, while moving it along the rust. When working crosswise, indentations may form.

In parallel with this work, correct other defects on the ceiling, just do not forget to prime them.

  1. Without waiting for the solution to dry completely, perform additional reinforcement; for this, use a serpyanka. Place it so that the seam between the plates is in the middle.
  2. Coat it with a layer of solution not exceeding a few millimeters. Otherwise, instead of an unsightly seam, you will end up with an unsightly hump.
  3. If, when jointing, it turns out to be wide and deep enough, then tow can be used to fill it. Pre-wet it in liquid gypsum mortar and seal well inside the seam.
  4. Apply the serpyanka on top and cover it with a thin layer of mortar. Make sure that the solution completely fills the empty volume between the tow and sickle.

SEALING ON THE CEILING

Sealing with mounting tape guarantees reliability.

  1. The rust from the previous finish is cleared. Then using various instruments(drill, chisel, knife) is prepared and expanded.
  2. The rust is cleared of small debris with a knife, and cleaned with a metal brush.
  3. After stripping inner surface coat with primer solution. It is very convenient to do this with a paint brush.

The primer solution should have a deep penetration effect.

  • After the primer has dried, proceed to sealing the ceiling rusts. The best way to do this is with a construction gun. With its help, the foam will fill to its entire depth;
  • wait until the foam dries and then sharply construction knife trim off excess;
  • prepare the construction mixture. Make sure there are no lumps. You can find out how to dilute it in the instructions written on the package;
  • Serpyanka will help to give the seam greater aesthetics. You apply it to the rust, apply a leveling layer of mortar on top of it;
  • After complete drying, you can perform final leveling with putty.

If you carry out all the work on sealing rust between the ceiling slabs in accordance with the given rules and instructions, then you will forget about the problems with your ceiling for a long time.

When renovating an apartment, one of the most difficult areas is the ceiling. Due to shrinkage of the house, subsidence or soil movement, cracks form between the floors various depths. Create beautiful view interior with cracks in the ceiling will not be possible, therefore, the seams between the floor slabs will have to be sealed. The procedure can be done manually, but has a number of features.

Tools and materials

Sealing the seams on the ceiling will require the preparation of tools and materials. They should be prepared before starting ceiling works with slabs.

Spatula with flexible elastic blade

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the slabs? This type of work requires:

  • deep penetration primer is better. The primer is intended to improve adhesion concrete surface and the material with which it is planned to seal the cracks;
  • cement brand NTs, it is used to eliminate deep recesses. The main difference from the standard composition is the ability to expand and fill holes during the solidification process;
  • for wide cracks, thermal insulation material is useful, the filler is construction foam, polyurethane or polyethylene foam;
  • putty with elastic material (latex);
  • sealant;
  • reinforced mesh with a width of 4-5 cm, if the width of the crack allows you to place a metal base inside;
  • starting and finishing putty.

When treating the ceiling, as well as the floor and walls, you will need basic electrical appliances. The type of tool depends on the seam sealing technology; usually it is enough:

  • spatulas of various sizes;
  • metal brush;
  • spray bottle;
  • construction knife;
  • hammer drill, easy to replace with a drill with impact mode;
  • sandpaper.

What tools will we need?

Before closing the joints of the slabs on the ceiling, you should take care of personal safety: eye protection glasses, a respirator, comfortable gloves and overalls.

How to remove seams on the ceiling: preparatory stage

Before sealing the seams on the ceiling, it is important to carry out the coating preparation stage. The surface should be durable and primed. It is better to remove any coatings with weak fixation: old putty, paint, wallpaper, cement, lime, etc.

It is better to seal the seams of floor slabs in clean room(after wet cleaning). To achieve better adhesion and normal mineralization of the working solution, the room must be dry. Primer is applied on top of the cleaned ceiling surface.

Before proceeding to apply the next layer, it is important to wait until the previous one has hardened. The amount of time depends on the temperature and type of material.

Working with a wide, shallow joint

If there are shallow cracks between floor slabs with a width of 3 cm or more, it is better to use filler, polyurethane foam.


Repairing a seam is quite a labor-intensive job that must be done scrupulously, otherwise the bad work will be visible later

How to seal a seam between ceiling tiles using foam? For this:

  1. Insert into the recess mounting gun and fill the hole with foam.
  2. Wait for the foam to dry, usually takes about 2-4 hours.
  3. All protruding parts are removed with a construction knife; it is better to make a recess of a few millimeters for better grip, but the depth should not exceed 5 mm.
  4. The recess is treated with elastic putty. It is convenient to use the material using 2 spatulas: narrow and wide. The mixture is stored on a wide tool, and the putty is applied with a narrow spatula.
  5. Cover the seams on the ceiling with a wide spatula, removing excess and other defects.

Working with a wide joint of great depth

If you have to seal a seam between tiles on a ceiling with a width of more than 3 cm and a relatively large depth, you should not use foam.

Work algorithm:

  1. Filling the Notch thermal insulation material. Foamed polyethylene and polyurethane foam are suitable for this purpose.
  2. Fixing the insulation using a sealant with maximum resistance to moisture.
  3. After sealing the crack, the gap is sealed with NC cement, but a small groove with a depth of up to 5 mm is left.
  4. After the cement has completely hardened, a latex type of putty is applied on top, and the plane of the slab is leveled with it.
  5. Using a spatula, remove the excess layer of preliminary putty and level it as much as possible.

Instead of foam for sealing deep cracks, you can use glue for ceramic tiles

Working with deep and narrow joints

It is better to seal narrow but deep seams between floor slabs using the same method as in the previous case.

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the slabs? The sequence of work is as follows:

  1. A sealant is applied to a piece of insulation and placed inside the groove. The material should be pushed firmly into the recess.
  2. After high-quality compaction with insulation, there should be about 1 cm of depth left for adding NC cement. It is important to leave a 5mm recess.
  3. To the frozen cement mortar apply latex putty and level it with a spatula.

Next steps

Sealing the seams between the panels is not completed in the previous steps. It is important to carry out the entire processing complex so that defects do not appear in the future. Otherwise, when the soil and the base of the building move, the floor seams will crack again, and all work will be in vain.

The reason for the appearance of cracks may be incorrect calculation of the load on the structure or neglect of construction technology, which causes the building to shrink. It is important at the stage of building a house to take into account the weight of the house insulation and lay the water supply system in advance to prevent destruction load-bearing walls and the foundation subsequently.


Latex putty. This kind of putty is more suitable for sealing seams.

Protection of joints between floor slabs from destruction is carried out in stages:

  1. Wait for the latex putty to harden; complete drying takes about 2 days.
  2. Preparation for reinforcement of the recess. Apply a starting layer of putty, it is laid with a small protrusion beyond the edges of 4-5 cm.
  3. A reinforcing mesh is pressed into the material; a roller or narrow spatula will do.
  4. Use a spatula to run along the putty to remove excess.
  5. After the material has hardened, the surface should be treated with fine or medium-grain sandpaper.
  6. Reapplication starting putty will help create an ideal plane; sanding is done with fine-grained sandpaper.
  7. A finishing putty coating is applied on top.
  8. After hardening, re-treat with sandpaper.
  9. The final stage is painting or gluing the ceiling.

Plastering

If, parallel to the damaged seams, there is a significant slope in the ceiling in any direction, it should be leveled. The best method is plaster compositions; their installation is preceded by the installation of the mesh. All work surface They cover the concrete contact with soil; it contains hard, large particles to improve adhesion to concrete. To cover the ceiling, a mixture of cement and gypsum is prepared.


The seams on the ceiling are most often sealed simultaneously with the repair of the entire ceiling

Closing the hole

Due to being ignored building codes A defect may appear on the ceiling, one of the most dangerous is a hole. Sealing ceiling seams between slabs is performed using one of two methods.

First way:

  1. Use a brush with an extended handle to clean the hole from the inside.
  2. It is important to remove loose dust, creating a strong adhesion; to do this, thoroughly spray the entire surface with a spray bottle containing soil.
  3. Polyurethane foam is blown inside.
  4. After complete hardening, cut off areas with excess material using a sharp knife.
  5. Cut out a cone-shaped recess with a height of 4-5 cm.
  6. The recess is sealed with NTs grade cement and the material is allowed to harden.
  7. The surface is leveled with a layer of putty, and a sickle mesh is placed inside.
  8. Subsequent operations are no different from sealing the seams on the ceiling between the slabs.

There is a second method for sealing the joints of floor slabs with holes:

  1. An improvised frame is created that fits flush into the hole, and it is placed inside the defective area. Any metal wire can be used.
  2. The frame is fixed using sealant; it is better to use one intended for repairing plumbing and walls during wet areas. If the purpose of the material is damp walls, its use for ceiling repair often leads to a better result.
  3. After hardening, a lattice is formed in the cavity; it will ensure strong fixation of the solution.
  4. Prepare a mixture of NC solution; you can use the classic composition, but it is better to add an additive that will improve the setting of the solution. To prevent the cement from falling out, it is supported from below with a piece of plywood.
  5. The plywood is secured from below with a support; it will hold the cement in the required position until it dries.
  6. The wooden board is removed only after hardening, then finishing is carried out.

The most important thing is to strictly follow the sequence and be careful

Joint between wall and ceiling: sealing methods

Characteristically, there are not only noticeable defects in the joints between the floor slabs, but also in the walls. It will not be possible to properly finish the surface without eliminating cracks.

  • construction foam;
  • gypsum mortar;
  • synthetic putty;
  • putty for exterior use.

The simplest and efficient material- foam that expands during the hardening process and fills voids.

If the joints are quite large, it is worth taking care of further protection against cracking. Reinforcing mesh, alternative materials - cotton, linen fabrics that are soaked in adhesive solution. The fabrics are laid over the hole. On final stage a layer of plaster is laid.

What to do if joints are visible on the ceiling: final leveling of the surface

Regardless of the method used to remove defects, it is important to create a high-quality finishing coating. Abrasive mixtures are used to level the surface.


The process of applying latex putty

To create a perfectly smooth and even surface, it is recommended to use non-woven fabric. It is glued to the ceiling up to the finishing layer of putty. The material helps eliminate small irregularities.

It is important to cover the ceiling with primer after the final leveling layer; this will help prevent the destruction of the coating and increase the durability of the putty layer. Now you can paint the ceiling, paste it over or whitewash it.

Constructing a building and creating an attractive appearance is a complex task that requires taking into account many factors:

  • Creation reliable foundation will prevent the appearance of cracks at corners and between floor slabs. Before doing this, it is important to carefully carry out the preparatory work: examining the soil, studying the level of soil freezing, creating the correct markings and compacting the surface. ensures a service life of up to 150 years only if the installation technology is followed;
  • To maintain heat in the room, it is worth eliminating the leakage of thermal energy through the floor. One of the best ways - ;
  • V multi-storey buildings It is better to first study the plan of the floor slabs, this will help determine potential vulnerabilities structures and eliminate them at the repair stage;
  • When building housing, it is better to use composite concrete, it has high technical characteristics and absolutely safe for health;

  • working with concrete in the cold season with a standard cement composition is unacceptable by the manufacturer, but not all companies are ready to stop construction for the winter. So is it possible to pour concrete in winter? – Yes, but you will need to add special mixtures to the composition or electrically heat the concrete;
  • if you plan to build a house from aerated concrete, they must be reinforced every 2-3 rows. The reinforcement is placed inside the block recesses that are created by the wall chaser for aerated concrete;

Holes of various sizes can be sealed if the technology is followed correctly. It is recommended to choose one of existing methods eliminate ceiling defects, they are easy to use and durable.



 
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