Which wire is best for installing wiring in a wooden house - recommendations for selection and advice. Wiring in a wooden house - design, installation and basic safety requirements (120 photos) Laying electrical wiring on wooden structures
Wooden houses are chosen as housing for many reasons: some people are contraindicated from living in concrete “boxes,” while others like beautiful log houses. However, living in them is closely related to the concept of safety. That is why the electrical wiring in wooden house considered one of the key aspects.
We will talk about how to properly install electrical wiring in a wooden house. Let us tell you what schemes Consumables And electrical installation products used in laying lines along walls made of timber or logs. With our advice, you can create a secure and trouble-free network.
Even if all logs, beams and boards are treated with fire retardants, they remain vulnerable to accidental fire. For this reason, the stages of constructing an electrical system - from design to installation of sockets and switches - need to be known to both skilled “do-it-yourselfers” and owners who supervise the work of hired builders.
According to the legislation of the Russian Federation, for residential buildings with a power consumption of no more than 15 kW, drawing up an electrical network design is not required. But the company supplying electricity must provide a diagram and data on the total power consumption. This is necessary for calculating the allocated power on the line and installing a meter.
Some electricity supply companies, when concluding a contract, still require a project that includes, in addition to the internal wiring diagram, installation points for sockets, switches, junction boxes, and an electrical panel with a meter
In the process of developing a project, you need to take into account all the nuances: the exact location of electrical installations, the choice of cable and wiring method, the need for grounding, etc. How the project is drawn up and preparation for installation work, let's look at it in more detail.
Step #1 - drawing up a diagram and work plan
You can do the design yourself if you have experience in such work, or with the help of specialists by concluding an agreement with a design organization.
A professionally drawn up document contains the following points:
- electrical panel diagram;
- electrical installation plan;
- calculations for installing a ground loop;
- outputs outside the house, if any - autonomous sources of electricity;
- equipment installation plan with specifications;
- if approval is required, a package of permits;
- explanatory note.
But first you should contact Energosbyt to obtain specifications - technical conditions, which are signed in accordance with SNiP.
Owners who apply for a connection with a power of less than 15 kW will have to collect the least amount of paperwork. They need to write a list of electrical appliances and calculate their total power. If the power consumption is more than 35 kW, a linear power supply circuit is required. For 380 V networks, a three-line diagram is drawn up.
Nowadays, wooden houses are already the norm. Everyone wants to live in an environmentally friendly way clean house, but at the same time modern man does not want to give up the conveniences of modernity. We are talking about lighting, the use of household appliances, computers, etc. All this will become possible only if we lay it inside the house electric wires, install switches and sockets, distribution panels. When it comes to a wooden house, which is easily flammable and burns, special requirements are put forward for the installation of wiring, compliance with which is the key to the safety of all residents. Let’s figure out how to properly install electrical wiring in a wooden house and what must be taken into account. The material will help you evaluate your strengths and decide whether it is possible to do all the work yourself or whether you will have to call a professional for help.
No. 1. Requirements for wiring in a wooden house
Wood is one of those types of materials that ignite easily and burn well. can easily catch fire from a normal short circuit in the electrical circuit, so the process is to minimize the likelihood of occurrence short circuit, and if it occurs, minimize the consequences. The following requirements are put forward for wiring in a wooden house::
No. 2. Hidden wiring in a wooden house
Electrical wiring in wooden buildings can be done in two ways:
In the last article I told you about.
Dear readers, you already know that there are several. Therefore, in today’s article we will talk about open electrical wiring in a wooden house.
I have already described the advantages and disadvantages of hidden and open electrical wiring earlier in my articles. You can read it here: and.
In this article, I will not force you to make a choice in one direction or another, but I just want to tell you in detail how to correctly install open electrical wiring in a wooden house.
So let's get started.
How to properly install open electrical wiring in a wooden house?
Before installing open electrical wiring in a wooden house, first of all, you need to think in advance about the places where the electrical points will be installed. Electrical points include: switches (), lamps, lighting panels, power panels and other electrical equipment.
Secondly, you need to decide on the method of laying open electrical wiring in your home.
What methods of laying open electrical wiring exist?
Methods for laying open electrical wiring in a wooden house
There are several ways to lay open electrical wiring:
- on porcelain rollers or insulators (electrical wiring in old apartments and houses, or retro-style electrical wiring)
- on staples
- V PVC corrugated
- in PVC pipes
- V metal pipes
- in a metal hose
- in PVC boxes
- in cable channels
- on cable trays
Let me give you a few illustrative examples. This is what it looks like.
You can read more about each installation method in my article.
Installation of exposed electrical wiring in a wooden house
1. Route markings
Installation of open electrical wiring must begin with markings. In addition to marking the installation locations of electrical points, it is necessary to mark the route for laying cables and wires.
Do not rush when applying markings; think carefully about each step.
Otherwise, you will have to redo the already completed electrical installation.
2. Installation of electrical points (sockets, switches, lamps)
At the second stage of installation of open electrical wiring it is necessary.
Attention!!! The base for mounting sockets, switches, lamps, etc. must be metal.
We cut out the metal plate (base) and attach it to the place where we planned to install the socket, switch, lamp, etc.
3. Laying wires and cables
The third stage of open installation includes laying wires and cables. We discussed ways of laying wires and cables a little higher.
I remind you that passages of wires and cables through wooden structures (ceilings, floors, walls, partitions) should ONLY be carried out THROUGH METAL CELLS (PIPES).
To install a metal sleeve in a wooden structure, you need to make a hole using. We insert a metal sleeve into this hole so that its edges on each side protrude at a distance of 1 (cm) from the wooden structure.
And after all that has been said above, we proceed to laying wires and cable lines.
For information on how to choose the cross-section of cables and wires, read the article on how to correctly and.
The laying of open electrical wiring is carried out with three-core or five-core wires, i.e. by or .
4. Connection
The fourth stage of installing open electrical wiring in a wooden house is cutting and connecting wires and cables to electrical equipment. This is done with the help of tools (I gave a link to the article about tools above in the text).
5. Completion of work
After completing the work, you need to contact electrical laboratory specialists who will carry out acceptance measurements and tests of the electrical wiring:
- RCD measurement
- and etc.
After the measurements and tests have been carried out, the electrical laboratory specialists will provide you with reports in which they will write a conclusion about the condition and serviceability of your newly installed electrical wiring.
P.S. This is the article on the topic exposed wiring in a wooden house I complete. Ask me your questions in the comments or in the feedback form. Subscribe to new articles.
How did you install exposed electrical wiring in a wooden house???
101 comments to the post “Exposed electrical wiring in a wooden house”
I have a hundred year old wooden house. and the wiring used to be on rollers. She is also a hundred years old, no less. Dusty and greasy. Especially in the kitchen. Now we have replaced the wiring. and all of it is in PVC cases. Just a miracle: neat, clean. easy to clean and cleaning the house is no longer scary)))
THANK YOU. I AM NOW COLLECTING INFORMATION ON THE ISSUE OF OPEN AND CLOSED ELECTRICAL WIRING IN A WOODEN HOUSE. EVERYTHING IS AVAILABLE AND EVEN CLEAR FOR ME) THE EXPLANATIONS IN THE PICTURES ARE VERY HELPING
I completely agree about VVGng-LS, many do not pay special attention to this, even they manage to lay PUNP...
I liked the antique wiring on rollers - it looks beautiful, it’s so cool)))
We were just about to change the wiring at the dacha, it’s quite old, so now we’ll do everything according to the rules.
I have two questions:
1. Is it possible to lay a VVGng-LS cable with a cross-section from 1.5mm2 to 4mm2 openly on a wooden wall (with fastening with brackets)?
2. Is it possible to lay a cable of the VVGng-LS brand openly in a metal hose along wooden walls and ceilings in the attic (two attic options: 1) frequently visited; 2) practically none. I’m hinting about rodents).
Thank you in advance!
P.S. And in general, huge respect for your articles. Until you find the answer in books, you will forget the question...
Sergey, I’ll answer your first question. Yes you can. On the second question - I wanted to write a separate article - electrical wiring in the attic. There are special requirements for her.
Thank you for your work!
Will wait.
Hello, please tell me, is there any new way to connect aluminum wires running from the pole to the house to insulators? Previously, they simply twisted the wire (aluminum) around the power supply, then they used nuts, then nuts were banned, then twisting seemed to be the same. So how to connect correctly? in the first case if we connect with copper and the second case if with aluminum. Of course, it would be nice to see the photos... These contacts are very important, there were cases, not uncommon, when the threat of fire was precisely in these contacts. The installation in the house was high-quality and competent, but due to poor contacts at the input, heating and sparking occurred. The introductory machine did not operate due to heat or EM protection.
Konstantin, currently, I recommend using SIP to introduce supply voltage into the house. Where did you get the idea that “nuts” were canceled - this type of wire connection is allowed in the PUE.
At the site, I accidentally met a theorist from Energonadzor and he told me about the nuts, that the wind makes the wire leading to the house shake, and the outside temperature causes the copper to expand and contract, and that the bot connection on the nut becomes loose and the contact is broken, and in short, everything is gone... I bet I didn’t bother with it and, just in case, I first make a twist on the power cable, and then I put a nut on the twist. I heard. that other connections appeared in place of nuts, I even saw them, black with a 10 bolt, when tightened, it clamps both the incoming wire and the one to which I connect. I wanted to ask, has anyone worked with these clamps? And SIP wire for supplying to the house (self-supporting insulated wire) in my opinion stands for this. But I need to connect from the shield inside the house through a metal tube to the wires from the insulators on the house outside. AVVG 2x10 is more suitable for me (it seems to me) and the cross-section should be enough for a small wooden house...
If I find a suitable clamp to connect copper and aluminum correctly, of course I will start copper with 2x6 or 2x10, also some kind of VVGng LS
A few words about the site: of course, thank you for being here and the site is very accessible and very useful. I would like to note only one thing - in a wooden house the base of the sockets must be metal (as you write) and this is absolutely correct, and in the photo on the site - as an example of installing sockets and switches from the Etude company under wood (if I’m not mistaken with the brand) , and the study never made a metal base in sockets or switches. It’s as if someone, without reading the full description, installed the electrical wiring following the example in the photo... I’ve never seen a metal plate specially cut out for an outlet and you can’t see it in the photo.
If the manufacturer of switches and sockets does not produce them with a metal base, then it must be done independently. This is what we did at one of the objects (bathhouse) during installation. It is not visible in the photo, because... I think that aesthetics should be present in the work and making a metal plate larger than the dimensions of the socket or switch itself is impractical.
The walnut consists of three plates, so there is no direct contact between copper and aluminum; their contact occurs through a steel plate. Which is exactly what we need. So you can use nuts in your case with a clear conscience.
The clamp you are talking about are special clamps for SIP wires. I will write a detailed article about them soon.
So if I choose a SIP supply wire to the switchboard, can I connect it to aluminum from insulators with such clamps? or are they only SIP to SIP??? It’s just that when you tighten the bolt, the contacts inside the clamp come out and are quite sharp... I hope I don’t bite the aluminum from the insulators with it.
Good day!
Please tell me, are there any special requirements for connecting electric convectors (floor and wall) in a wooden house with new (2009) open, copper, three-wire wiring?
Tatyana, hello!!! First of all, it is necessary that the cable to the convector has the appropriate cross-section. The cross section is selected according to its installed capacity (according to the passport). It is advisable to power it through an RCD or a differential circuit breaker of the appropriate rating. In principle, that's all. If any difficulties arise, write to me the power of your convector - I will choose electrical equipment for you.
Good health!
I would like to ask about localization ability. When wiring is closed, special attention is paid to this issue. When open, it turns out that almost nothing is spent! If with hidden wiring you need to cover the wiring on all sides with non-flammable material, then with open wiring, in my opinion, at least on the sides adjacent to flammable surfaces! Isn't it logical?
Quote: "Attention!!! The walls of corrugated PVC and plastic boxes (channels) burn out during a short circuit, which, if used in hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house, will lead to a fire.”
Question: Is there no such danger when wiring in a PVC corrugated or plastic box directly over wooden surfaces? It's kind of strange, isn't it?
PUE, PTEEP, SNiPs - these are, of course, laws for electricians; there’s no escape here.
Therefore, it seems that the most correct thing is to lay the wiring in metal pipes. However, I believe that it is almost impossible even for professionals to do it without deviating from the standards. I’m not even talking about the cost. The solution is to lay external electrical wiring.
In my opinion, there is a big myth about rodents and other animals eating wiring (maybe the electricians themselves came up with this?) And all short circuits occur from network overload, unsatisfactory network condition and other chaos.
With a correctly developed project, selection of the permissible load and, accordingly, the cross-section of wires, protection, RCD and, accordingly, high-quality installation, plus periodic testing of electrical wiring and equipment, nothing will happen for 100 years.
Regarding the myth about rodents: I witnessed such a 'sabotage'. When replacing a wire (old) with a new one in the void of the interior partition, the insulation was carefully removed from both wires. Traces of touching each other were visible on the exposed wires. The house was old wooden before the fire one step. After this, all passages through the walls were urgently checked and metal tubes were hammered into the passage points. So this is not a myth.
Why is the boss silent?
Good afternoon.
In my wooden house on the second floor there are unheated cavities on the sides of the rooms, through which you can crawl freely. Is it possible to lay a cable in a metal conduit in them?
Igor, it is possible, if the electrical wiring is laid openly and there is access to it. But if it is an attic, then there are special requirements for electrical wiring in attics.
Igor, metal pipes are the only thing allowed. ground them and move on.
Konstantin, metal pipes with hidden wiring - I agree. But Igor did not clarify the premises and the method of laying the electrical wiring.
How to connect a switch with a socket. Show me the diagram.
Evgeniy, on given time There is no such diagram on the website.
How and at what height to mount the meter outdoors on the wall of a house. And what kind of hooks to install for the liner from the pole?
Is it mandatory to organize grounding in a wooden house when connecting to a single-phase 220V-6kW network?
Nikolai, definitely.
Good afternoon! Thank you for your answer. But if you look at the essence: I have a room without increased danger, there are no water or heating pipes, no iron cabinets, etc., but if I conduct a grounding circuit and ground, for example, a microwave oven, then it appears the possibility of being hit if you accidentally touch a phase wire and a grounded device at the same time.
Nikolay, in such situations, an RCD is installed that will turn off the power if there is a current leak
Hello everyone, I live in an old wooden house, the wiring is the same old as the house, they made repairs in one room and accordingly changed the wiring to new, 2.5 sq. mm copper. (as I thought), but it turned out (after a little reading on this site) to 1.7 sq.mm., thanks to the admin for explaining such things to us mere mortals, far from electricity, for example, when I bought a wire for wiring, I knew that I need a section of 2.5 sq. mm. and bought one, but it turned out to be PUNP, so why change everything now? In the contact of copper with aluminum, heating occurs when you turn on, for example, a microwave, now I want to draw a separate line to the light, sockets and devices such as a microwave, but what about the contact with aluminum (I installed a terminal block, but it’s still some kind of nonsense), if you pull copper before the meter or before the traffic jams, then what should I do, there is aluminum there, will it heat up again or something? Unclear! The terminal block was melting, but if you lay it to the plugs it will start to melt in the plugs??? Thank you!
Oleg, you just need to make a high-quality connection of copper and aluminum - these are all allowed. Leave the PUNP; if it has the appropriate cross-section, then use it; if the cross-section is too low, then load it a little less.
I did the electrical wiring in a wooden house at the dacha on my own. I read the article. Thanks for the valuable information. It turned out that I did the right thing in that I did the wiring openly in PVC boxes. But as it turned out, he committed a number of violations. In places where they passed through wooden walls, I laid wires in PVC corrugation, which is a serious violation. In addition, sockets and switches have a plastic base that is attached to a wooden wall. I have lived with this wiring for five years during warm periods. First of all this year I will install a metal base under all sockets and switches, and in places where they pass through wooden walls I will install metal sleeves. Should the electrical panel in which the machines are located also be metal, not plastic? Or can it be plastic, but must there be a metal base for the shield? The connection point for electricity to the overhead line is not in the house, but in a separate utility unit, and from the utility unit it goes into the house with a cable that lies on a metal cable.
Hello, I have a number of questions.
1. Let’s say I’m laying new wiring with a three-wire VVG. It turns out that I have to connect my own line from the meter (panel) to each socket, since the PE conductor can only be connected to the main switch, and connected to a distribution box. no boxes?
2. Why a metal base for electrical points? Does it need to be grounded?
Stepan, good afternoon.
1. You can connect PE conductors in junction boxes
2. Do you want to attach the socket directly to a wooden surface? What about fire safety - what if you accidentally overload an outlet and it starts to heat up and melt? There is no need to ground the base.
It’s clear, but why then have a main grounding bus at all, if you can simply make branches from one PE conductor?
Hello Stepan.
It is necessary to connect the PE wire according to the standards without breaking. Because PE wire is one of the main ways to protect against electrical damage. it cannot be connected “in a loop” with current. You need to clean the core from the insulation without making a cut, screw on 2-3 threads of the same wire as the core, crimp and solder this place. All this is done in the socket box.
The second way is to use a “VAGO” clamp, in which case the core can be cut. This method is allowed by Energonadzor as an exception. But the main way is by soldering without cutting.
Good afternoon
Can you please tell me what the thickness of the metal plate installed under sockets and switches should be? For example, regular food foil Will it work or do I need something more serious? Thank you.
But this logic proposed by the PUE is really not at all clear. Those. it is strictly prohibited to use a cable duct, PVC corrugation, metal hose, etc. with a closed method of installing wiring on flammable materials (which, no matter how difficult it may be in practice, is understandable and justified) and at the same time allowing the use of the same cable duct, PVC corrugation, etc. with the open method. Does it matter: the cable will pass under wood cladding or along it, if in both cases it is in direct contact with the tree? Is this really allowed only because it is assumed that open wiring is always in sight and if something happens to it, it will be visible. Well, somehow it’s very weak for such a normative document as the PUE to rely on such assumptions in such an important matter as fire safety. Well, you really can’t expect that all the rooms in the house (of which there may be quite a few) are simultaneously under the visual control of the owner. Or what, he must constantly run around the whole house and watch, no matter where a cable channel burns out or a mouse gnaws through a PVC corrugation laid in an open way?! And if you need to leave the house, but at the same time leave some kind of load (for heating, for example)?!!! This is absolutely scary to think about!!! In general, to put it mildly, strange logic!!! I absolutely agree with Ilya (comment-question from 05/18/2013 at 21:13)
What do you think about this, Dmitry? The fact that these are the rules and you didn’t come up with them is understandable. But if you still abstract from the PUE. Just your “private opinion”?
And I would also like to know this:
Are there, in principle, ready-made sleeves available for sale for the passage of walls? Different diameters and lengths? Or you need to take simple gas pipes and make them yourself. And wouldn’t it be more correct to make the length of the pipe-sleeve such that there would be about 10 mm protruding on each side of the wall. Then cut threads at the ends and tighten this sleeve on both sides with thin nuts and washers?
Regarding metal plates for installation between switches. What should be the thickness of this plate?
In my wooden house, I simply wrapped sections of wires passing through the walls with thick metal foil (in several layers, without much tension). Installation is simplified, the wires themselves are not damaged, and there is no direct contact between the wire and wooden surfaces- the same as when using metal sleeves. I also placed the same foil (2-3 layers) under switches with sockets. The most common foil is food grade.
Of course I agree, electrical wiring in a wooden house is a special case (regardless of whether it is open or hidden) and fire safety should not be neglected here. On the contrary, we need to approach this issue more carefully. But the rules are the rules, and I conveyed their requirements to you. I can only speculate and guess why the requirements for open wiring are somewhat relaxed. Most likely because open wiring is always accessible for inspection, and in the event of a short circuit, the location of the short circuit will be clearly visible (traces of soot, melting), a burning smell will appear faster than a short circuit will occur in recessed places inside wooden partitions with hidden wiring.
All feed-through sleeves, bushings and adapters can be found in stores, although more often they are made to order. Well, or do it yourself - it will be much cheaper. The requirements for the thickness of the metal plate are similar to those for metal pipes for electrical wiring, i.e. with a cross-section of the supply cable up to 2.5 sq. mm, the thickness is not standardized, and with 4 sq. mm - 2.8 (mm).
Hello!
Thank you to everyone for the useful and sensible information.
Not being an expert, I'll try to guess:
- so strict requirements to hidden wiring in wooden houses is explained by the fact that houses made of logs or timber are subject to rotting over time (tens of years) and, accordingly, vertical shrinkage and horizontal displacement (leaning huts).
I myself live in such a crooked hut - the maximum displacement from the vertical (between the lower part of the wall and its upper part) is 180 mm with a wall height of 2.5 m.
It seems that hidden wiring (without steel pipes) would not have tolerated such a distortion and would have started a fire.
Apparently, PUEs are written on the basis of painful experience, just like traffic rules.
I thought: it would be nice to read the comments with pictures) to the PUE, similar to the existing commentary-clarifications to the traffic rules.
Good afternoon
Tell me, there are articles on the Internet that say that in a wooden house, each outlet requires a separate cable from the electrical panel. Do you think it is worthwhile to install electrical wiring in this way?
Sayan, these requirements are acceptable not only in a wooden house, but also in an ordinary apartment. The owner decides everything here. If you want maximum reliability of power supply, while spending a decent amount on materials, then go ahead. Personally, I am in favor of this method, but it all depends on the budget and the feasibility of this decision in a particular case.
Good day everyone!
Tell me if I made a mistake somewhere with my new wiring in a wooden house.
The walls are sheathed with plasterboard (the gap from the wall is 5-10 cm. The distribution boxes are in plastic plaster, twisted, I think they can put clamps. Open wiring on the walls in cable channels, VVG ng LS cable 2.5 mm.
I want a suspended ceiling. I will run a corrugated line along the ceiling, and fill the route with fire-resistant plasterboard 12.5.
Input machine 25a.uzo 40 a, 30 mA, and two machines 16 each per room.
What mistakes did you make?
I take this issue very seriously, I don’t want to screw it up.
Good day.
They promised to tell us about the wiring in the attic - it’s certainly interesting.
But for example, I’m wondering what the requirements are for wiring in the basement (especially considering that in the basement there are wooden sheds for storing various things of residents and wooden chests for potatoes) and how to properly lay the wiring there, or rather, let’s say, not so much replace all the wiring, but make a branch line to your shed and make a light and socket there?
And at the same time, what do you think about the method of laying over combustible structures or next to them in a metal-plastic pipe (of course PVC plastic) ?, some practice.
1).Instead of a steel pipe when laying over combustible structures (SC), can you use an aluminum pipe/u with a diameter of 16 mm, a wall thickness of about 1.5 mm? (it seems that the type of metal is not indicated in the PUE or is it?)
2).As a lining on the electrical outlet under the socket/switch/junction box, can I use not a steel sheet, but an aluminum sheet approximately 1mm thick?
3).If there is no grounding, is it necessary to ground the metal pipe (aluminum) in which the wire runs through the electrical network if it is known that no one will touch this pipe? , and is it possible to install an RCD/diff circuit breaker if there is no ground and is it possible to turn off the RCD/diff circuit breaker if there is a phase or neutral wire short circuit to a metal pipe, but no one touches it, i.e. there will be no leakage through a person? - again, if the RCD/differential circuit breaker is not connected to the ground due to its absence.
Metal hose is prohibited for installation in wooden houses without additional fire safety measures, as it does not have localization ability. Localization ability is the ability of a CONTINUOUS STEEL pipe to withstand a short circuit flash. Read the PUE more carefully. It contains all the answers to the questions. Or hire a competent specialist if you don’t want to read.
Correction! I didn’t complete the explanation! metal hose is prohibited for hidden installation! I’ll add my own method: in the open, ensuring a distance from the combustible surface of at least 10 mm and using differential protection for such a line. The metal hose must be grounded and the resistance checked.
What if you don’t earth it, but use this sleeve as a simple thermal and mechanically protecting screen? Or earth, what will happen if double-insulated wires/cables are used?
If you do not ground, then you will lose an important component of the set of safety measures - at your own conscience. These sections of metal hose by default fall under the requirements of the PUE. All And what is so difficult about this task? Financially it’s worth it, it’s just time-consuming.
Hello! I want to replace the input in my private house myself and install an input machine. Do I need to invite electricians from the electrical network before this so that they can make sure that I haven’t broken anything in the wiring, or should I invite them after I’ve done everything so that they can seal the machine for me? and brought the wires to the meter??? Thank you!
Novel:
08/02/2015 at 09:43
You need to notify the energy sales organization, whose representatives will unseal the electric meter
Good afternoon
Please explain what you meant when you recommended placing a metal plate under an outlet or switch when wiring is open on combustible surfaces. Is this a PUE requirement? But then, in theory, the plate should simply be non-flammable - fiberglass or getinax or any other non-flammable material of appropriate thickness. And should it protrude 10 mm from the socket - as when it is required to lay a wire in flammable insulation over a combustible surface. And this requirement applies to all external sockets or only to those that are not protected by anything reverse side? And if they are hermetically sealed (IP54), is a plate also needed? The requirement for a wire distance of 10 mm from a combustible surface is fulfilled automatically, isn’t it?
Good afternoon!!! Tell me how to choose the correct cable channel size for a certain number of outgoing lines????
Good day!
Do you think a piece of ski pole is suitable as a metal pipe to go through the wall? Or, probably, the diameter will not fit...
For your safety, or for formality?
for safety
and a lot of ski poles...
I decided to replace aluminum with copper, laid out the entire backup circuit, but I don’t know how to connect from the insulators, the indicator doesn’t show where the phase wire is - that’s the problem
Hello, I have several questions about wiring in a wooden house:
1. The article says that wiring can be done using brackets. But PUE 2.1.37 says that unprotected wires must be routed over surfaces made of combustible materials, either through something fireproof, or with a 10mm gap. The definition of a protected wire is that it is a wire that, in addition to insulation, has a metal or other sheath over the electrical insulation to protect against mechanical damage. If you do wiring on a VVGNG, then its general external insulation is considered a fur shell. damage? Or VVGNG is not protected by definition, and then they cannot do wiring on brackets. I'm kind of confused, because... half of the articles on the Internet on this topic do not consider the option of open wiring on brackets at all.
2. What is the correct name for sleeves for passing through walls? Cable penetrations? You need to Google it and buy it. Or do they not sell them and you have to cut the pipes yourself and provide them with plastic tips to prevent damage to the wire by the edge of the pipe? In this case, what tags should you use to search for these tips on the Internet for purchase? Or do we have to do them again ourselves?
3. Sockets, switches, etc. must be installed on the met. grounds. Do PUEs somehow regulate their thickness?
4. Is it allowed to lay cables, install switches and sockets on the external walls of the house (from the inside, of course).
5. Is it possible to use the same penetration and the same boxes for power cables and low current?
Thank you in advance!
Gregory:
05/05/2016 at 18:20
1. Turn on the logic.. the cable (CABLE, not WIRE) must be INSULATED from the flammable surface either by a layer of air or by a blanket of plaster. This means that you need: either non-flammable insulators that will push the cable away at a distance of at least 10 mm, or a layer of plaster at least 10 mm. What other staples, really.. that will press your cable to the tree? So that it burns better?) forget.
2. Buy at Leroy STEEL pipe 3\4. Saw off so that the pipe protrudes in both directions above the surface by 2 cm. Buy an electrical pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. It fits neatly inside the 3/4. Cut it off a cm more than the metal pipe. Wrap the ends with electrical tape so that it doesn’t fall out of the metal pipe. That’s it, you’re done.
3. Does not regulate, IMHO. I lay the cable in a tray 0.7 mm thick. Enough for burning. Take 0.7 mm and ground it. Double control.
If you don’t understand, write me an email and I’ll send you a photo.
Gregory.
4. The question is not clear. Expand the topic.
5. The weak point can be different. It’s better not to take risks and throw the weak point separately (against mice) in a PVC metal hose.
I recently installed wiring in sheds, I also did it with staples because I’ve read a lot of different articles about staples, VVGngP/VVGng 2*1.5 2*2.5
I’ll soon be putting it into corrugation and then consulted with electricians/firemen. The general conclusion is that you can use the brackets for yourself, but if the firefighters come to check, they will screw you up and can shut down the house until it is fixed. and again, it’s your own house..
I read the PUE later. but even then, as a non-specialist, some subtleties require consultation.
Regarding the pipe in Leroy, it’s better to go to plumbing stores. Cheaper in Leroy imported pipe, at this moment costs almost 800 rubles for two meters
in a plumbing store 260 rubles for two meters Russian.
Author of the site, please answer the following previously asked questions (and it is better to duplicate the answer in the article itself):
1. Should the electrical panel in which the machines are located also be metal, not plastic? Or can it be plastic, but must there be a metal base for the shield?
2. Are there any ready-made sleeves available for the passage of walls? Different diameters and lengths? Or you need to take simple gas pipes and make them yourself. And wouldn’t it be more correct to make the length of the pipe-sleeve such that there would be about 10 mm protruding on each side of the wall. Then cut threads at the ends and tighten this sleeve on both sides with thin nuts and washers?
And then, where can I get the bushings that are inserted into the pipe on both sides so as not to damage the cable? If I do it myself again, can you advise what to use and how to use it?
3. How to choose the correct cable channel size for a certain number of outgoing lines? (you can even make a separate article about this, since there are many combinations, at least for cables with a cross-section of 1.5 and 2.5 mm and different numbers of them in different, most popular combinations)
Please tell me, I started changing the wiring in a wooden house. I laid a VVGngLS 3x6 flat cable in the cable channel. Then I saw that this cable is round and, apparently, with filler. The question arises: is it allowed to use a flat cable? Can I replace it with a round one?
Don't change anything. Their operational properties are the same. The filler just gives the round VVG a round shape.
Specifically regarding the question, there is no mistake, the PUE does not regulate whether the cable is flat or round. If it is really VVgNgLs, then everything is in order. The flat one closes more conveniently into the cable channel, the round one has a large bending radius.
The second point is what device powers this cable and what rating is the circuit breaker selected to protect this line? This is too large a cross-section for sockets. More like input cable for the main shield.
Thanks everyone for your help.
The cable runs from the box with the meter to the distribution board. The machine is set at 32A.
Any owner of a house or apartment wants the electrical wiring in his home to be of high quality and reliable. If experience and knowledge allow, wiring can be done correctly with your own hands, both in a panel and wooden house.
At first glance, if you install electrical wiring in a wooden house in accordance with the requirements of SNiP, PEU, there will be no problems. However, laying fireproof electrical wiring in a wooden house is actually doable, and you can choose which wiring to use.
Why should the VVGng cable be laid along the wall in a corrugated or cable duct? After all, VVGng is made in non-combustible insulation, and corrugated pipes and cable channels are made of ordinary plastic. Or do you need to use metal corrugated pipes and cable ducts? Something I haven’t seen at anyone’s dacha like this...
Why I can’t move in, from the photo you can see that the cable is all in a cable duct ON a wooden wall, without a cable duct it even comes into contact with the wall, but in my house it goes along the wall in a corrugated bracket on brackets and the wall itself is sewn up in plaster and now I don’t see the difference that I have the wiring done and the one shown here is external. What should I do, change everything or leave it?
Alexey, if the cable is run along a wooden wall, and then the wall is covered with plasterboard along the profile, then this is hidden wiring, not open.
SP 256.1325800.2016 “Electrical wiring in cavities above impenetrable suspended ceilings and inside prefabricated partitions are considered as hidden.” If there is something flammable inside the partition, such as wood, this is flammability class G4, with all the consequences of laying cables in metal pipes..
But according to PUE 7, the cable can be laid in the plaster strip.
Compromise on safety - You first had to sew 9.5mm strips of plasterboard, making a non-flammable gasket between the cable and the wooden surface, cover it with a second strip of the same on top, enclosing the cable in a non-flammable sheath, and then cover the wall along the profile with plasterboard..
Something is not clear in a wooden house, is it possible that installation methods that cannot be used with hidden wiring are allowed with open wiring? What's the point in all this? At first I thought that the authors of the articles were different.
Good afternoon. Everywhere it is written that the passage through the wall must be made of a metal pipe, but when the cable is heated, everything is transferred to the combustible surface, especially if the pipe is thin. Why can't you use a plastic non-flammable pipe? What is it inferior to? The following question is also interesting: is it possible to do the wiring in the box if its dimensions allow it?
SP 31-105-2002 clause 13.5 I would very much like to hear your opinion on this system of regulatory documents in construction.
good afternoon! I have this problem: I have a short circuit on the switch, when you turn it off, the switch sparks and the meter makes a crackling sound!
And what do you turn off that sparks, an ordinary light bulb? In general, the switch cannot but short-circuit, this is its direct job - to close the contacts in the power circuit of the meter/fuse (machine)/switch/lamp/meter.
Good afternoon.
Where is it stated that sockets and switches must be attached through fireproof (metal) socket boxes to a wooden surface?
What rules can I refer to to prove to management?
Arkady Petrovich, there is no clear clause in the Rules that talks about the use of metal plates. The socket may have PVC base, but you just need to know for sure that the base is made of non-flammable material. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. You can’t even imagine how many sockets, sockets and corrugated pipes with the index “ng”, but in fact they actively support combustion. This is precisely why I recommend installing metal plates if you are not sure of the quality of the plastic products used. By the way, some series of sockets have a ready-made metal base, just for installation on wooden and other flammable surfaces, and in this case there is no need to make these same plates yourself.
SP 256.1325800.2016, clause 15.5 In buildings with building structures made of combustible materials of groups G2 and (or) G3, the following is allowed: open laying of single cables and wires in a protective sheath with copper conductors with a cross-section of no more than 6 sq. mm in PVC insulation designed according to GOST 31565 without lining; hidden laying of cables and wires under the plaster in a protective sheath with copper conductors with a cross-section of no more than 6 sq. mm in a flame retardant design, in accordance with GOST 31565 on the plaster cover.
Good afternoon
To the question asked earlier - is it necessary to lay something between the plastic switchboard and the wooden wall (lining) frame house? Thank you!
Dima. This something is a non-flammable spacer. Metal sheet, SML or DSP sheet. Asbestos is prohibited. A metal sheet between the wall and the ASU, connect to the main grounding bus. One hundred percent of the base is metal or stone. Plastic that does not melt at all is not used in sockets and switches. And if you add a little more imagination, you can imagine falling an overheated socket leaking self-extinguishing plastic onto a carpet that spreads fire perfectly (with magnificent toxic smoke to boot).
A certificate of NG plastic will be enough for the authorities to avoid imprisonment, if that happens).
Oleg.
The pipe also ensures that the cable passing through it is not damaged when the wall is deformed. The plastic is soft.
Wiring. It must be positioned so that it is accessible and visible not only to the author of the wiring. The cable usually heats up/burns first in places where there are poor connections. If the wiring is located in a tray/cable duct, in a bundle of transit and terminal cables/wires, in an emergency this will cause damage to the entire bundle. It is necessary to preserve the functionality of the rest of the system by moving the dangerous area outside the main bundle, to the unsoldering. In the event of an accident, repairs will be easier and the damage less severe.
I took a couple of Kopos LKM45 universal boxes for open installation series of hidden installation, costs one dollar apiece. Self-extinguishing PVC 850°C, inside there are markings on three sides for a channel up to 40×20 mm; when installing directly on G4, the manufacturer recommends heat-insulating pads. Kopos’s ones are not metal, I don’t know what they’re made of, but they don’t contain asbestos. Box size 98×98×45 mm.
Next in the photos are frames 80x80 mm and 90x90 mm.
Hello. I’m worried in the full sense of the word: I discovered that the builders installed a PVS cable for lighting in the steam room. He urgently suspended the operation of the bathhouse. I bought RKGM 1x1.5 wire. Now the question is: can these wires (RKGM) be laid in the steam room directly on the lining between the ceiling and the wall and covered with a plinth? Sales consultants say that it is possible because the wire is heat-resistant up to 180 degrees. There is, of course, another option - take it to the outside of the wall and lead it directly into the steam room near the lamps.
Vladimir, the second option is better.
And if you cover it with a plinth, then at least in a corrugation, if space allows.... and don’t forget about the RCD
One of the most important measures when building a house made of wood is its electrification in compliance with fire safety rules. Typically, professional electricians are involved in installing the cables into the house and further laying cables to each point, although some homeowners tend to take responsibility themselves when doing this difficult task. To help those who decide to install electricity in the house themselves, step-by-step instruction accompanied by mandatory rules.
Rules for laying electrical cables in wooden structures
Before working out in a wooden house, you should study some of the features of this activity that are typical for buildings made of timber or logs. Electrification rules wooden structure differ from the wiring and installation of equipment performed in houses built from stone, brick or building blocks. The main difference is the flammability of wood, which requires special care when carrying out all work related to supplying power to each point.
The second feature of a building made from lumber is its significant shrinkage, the degree of which must be taken into account when installing electrical wiring. These features of buildings built from wood building materials dictate the following rules that must be followed when installing electrical wiring with your own hands:
- preference is given to an electrical cable with a copper power core, as it is more flexible and less susceptible to damage from bending and stretching;
- priority is given to the open (external) method of laying wires;
- use of metal (non-flammable) socket boxes and distribution boxes;
- holes in the walls for laying cables between different rooms and when entering the house are fenced off from the wood with metal cases (sleeves);
- when installing electrical wiring in a closed way the cable is laid only in a solid metal tube; the use of corrugated cable ducts for these purposes is strictly prohibited;
- It is recommended to use a wire protected by several layers of non-flammable braiding, the outer diameter of which is at least 40% smaller than the internal cross-section of the case or mounting tube;
- special attention is paid to protection against short circuits (installation of automatic circuit breakers and RCDs), grounding of all electrical appliances with connection to the appropriate circuit, creating effective protection against lightning strikes;
- The electrical distribution panel is mounted to a wooden wall using a reliable dielectric non-flammable plate.
These rules will ensure you maximum safety during the operation of the electrical supply, because more than half of the cases of fires occur in wooden buildings caused by problems with electrical wiring. Due to fire safety, to the detriment of aesthetic preferences, experts recommend using an open cable installation method when wiring around the house.
If, however, hidden (internal) laying of wires is preferred, the laying of metal cases for electrical cables must be done during the construction of walls. This labor-intensive process, which also requires accurate calculations when designing power supplies in order to minimize the likelihood of channel deformation from the pressure of building structures during shrinkage of the house. For this reason, they often give preference to open installation of wiring in a wooden house, as it is safer and more controllable during operation.
With the open method of laying cables, two options for installing wires are used. The first, considered somewhat outdated, involves fixing the wiring to special dielectric insulators, which are installed with a certain step according to the wiring diagram. This method is less aesthetically pleasing, but at the same time it is the easiest to install, safest and least expensive in terms of material investments. Open wiring on insulators is now used less and less, preferring to lay electrical cables in special closed cases that are mounted on top of a wooden wall or ceiling. Laying wires in wall cable channels is convenient, functional and allows you to implement complex wiring schemes that correspond to modern requirements for power supply of private houses.
Electrical design - highlights
Any complex installation work is preceded by design, including the installation of wiring in a wooden house. But first, it is necessary to coordinate the provision of electricity to housing with the organization providing electricity supply services, whose specialists must develop technical specifications - the basis for further design. At the same time, the total energy consumption and the set of necessary electrical equipment for introducing a power cable into the house are assessed.
For private households, according to approved standards, it is considered acceptable to consume electricity within 15 kW at a time, which corresponds to an installation at the input of 25 A. If consumption exceeds the indicated figure, it is necessary to install an additional electric current converter.
Design begins with marking the location of electricity consumers on the construction diagram. Some of them will be powered from the general network (lighting and appliances connected to regular sockets), others will be connected to the distribution panel via a separate cable. This is how devices with increased power consumption are connected (electric stoves, hot water boilers, electric heating boilers). Each of the powerful electricity consumers is connected through an individual circuit breaker.
Depending on the number of devices and their power that will presumably be powered from a particular room, the number of required sockets and the cross-section of the supply cable are calculated. In order to prevent overheating of the conductors, a cable with a core cross-section of at least 1.5 mm is used. Provide at least 2.5 mm to the sockets. The use of tees and electrical carriers is not recommended; it is advisable to install more power consumption points than the number of electrical appliances expected to be used.
Also, during the design, the locations of distribution boxes and their communication paths with lighting fixtures, switches and sockets are noted. In this case, the minimum distances from the laid cable to door and window openings (at least 10 cm), floor and ceiling are taken into account. Cable routing diagram, especially when hidden installation, will help in the future not to damage the wiring when carrying out various installation and finishing works.When designing electrical wiring, not only personal ideas about the convenience of the location of electrical points and cables are taken into account, but also requirements dictated by considerations of safety and expediency, which include the following rules:
- It is unacceptable to connect power supply points along the shortest path - cables are laid only vertically and horizontally, forming direction transitions at right angles;
- switches are installed in the range of 0.6-1.2 m from the floor surface, for sockets the permissible height range of 0.4-0.8 m is determined;
- switches, sockets and distribution boxes must be freely accessible for use, inspection or repair work;
- direct contact of passing wires with metal objects and with each other is excluded (the distance between adjacent cables should not be less than 50 mm).
The connection of copper and aluminum conductors, if any, is prohibited by twisting. To avoid rapid oxidation of such contacts, it is recommended to use special terminal blocks.
Wiring - widely used methods and diagrams
Installation of wiring in a wooden house begins with the choice of wiring diagram and method of laying cables. But first it is necessary to install external electrical equipment, which includes an electric meter and circuit breakers. Typically, the meter and main circuit breaker are installed by specialists from the power supply organization; further wiring is done by hired electricians or independently.
It is recommended to install additional circuit breakers, through one of which the lighting is powered, the other breaks the circuit going to the sockets, the third - for electrical appliances located outside the building . Individual machines are installed on cables supplying electricity to utility and technical buildings, as well as electrical appliances high power, installed in the house and powered using individual wires.
Main power cable is brought inside through a case mounted into a wooden wall and is brought to the first junction box, where it connects to the next main wire going to other rooms. When installing open wiring in a wooden house, before routing the wires from the distribution boxes to the power consumption points, you need to install insulators (for the retro version) or lockable cases (boxes) in accordance with the electrical wiring diagram, designed to accommodate the appropriate number of cables. If the method of installing wires in boxes is chosen, the subsequent steps are performed in this order.
- 1. We put wires in cases fixed to the walls (fastening spacing 50-60 cm), one end of which is inserted into the distribution box, the other into the corresponding socket box. In the box we leave a cable reserve of up to 20 cm, in the socket box - about 10 cm. After laying the electrical wires, we close the box with a lid.
- 2. According to the wiring diagram and connection of electrical consumers in the box, we connect the wires. The easiest way is twisting followed by insulation. We clear all conductors from the braid by about 40 mm, twist them along the entire length of the protected conductors, and then insulate them with special caps.
- 3. A more reliable way to connect wires is using terminal blocks of the appropriate cross-section. We strip the wires to about 7-8 mm, insert them into the corresponding connector of the block and tighten them with a screw. This connection method prevents sparking and oxidation of contacts.
- 4. Next, we connect the contacts of switches, sockets and lighting sources to the corresponding wires. We install sockets and switches in socket boxes and securely fix them with special unclamping “whiskers”.
- 5. Only after installing all elements of electrical equipment can the distribution boxes be integrated with each other and with the central power cable.
For wires supplying high-power electrical appliances, we lay separate boxes designed for one wire. A cable coming from an electric stove, boiler or other powerful electrical installations, must be continuous and open only at an individual circuit breaker installed in the distribution panel. To install wires into the house for individual electrical appliances, you can use the same case as for the main cable of the main wiring. But at the same time, it is necessary to protect each conductor from each other with dielectric non-flammable material.
This is how open electrical wiring is done in wooden houses, and its installation can be done independently. practical implementation. If you want to carry out wiring hidden in a building made of logs or timber, it is better to contact specialists, since this task is troublesome, requires accurate calculations and involves labor-intensive installation process with the installation of complex communication nodes.
A wooden house pleases its residents with lightness and indescribable comfort. But wood, for all its advantages, is a flammable material that requires increased attention from the point of view of fire safety. But since the need to equip a house with electricity is not discussed today, before starting work, you need to carefully read the rules for installing electrical equipment (PUE) and the provisions of GOSTs. There are no particular difficulties in following these rules, but you need to know about them.
Basic requirements for electrical wiring in a wooden house
Codes of rules PUE and SNiP are developed by specialists in the field of safety. This is not the whim of an office official, but a list of necessary standards, compliance with which brings the level of “carelessness” as close as possible to the desired one. We can say that life itself writes these dry chapters, behind which human tragedies are sometimes hidden.
The main cause of fires in wooden buildings is electrical short circuit.
Statistics on fires, unfortunately, leave no doubt that wood construction always on the front line of fire risk. However, if we remember that for hundreds (and maybe thousands) of years our ancestors lived in wooden log houses, there is hope that everything is possible, you just need to competently deal with the wiring. After all, it is this that in the vast majority of cases becomes the cause of fire.
The basic requirements contained in the PUE and GOSTs are as follows:
- The wiring calculation should be made with a margin of up to 30%. This applies primarily to the selection of area cross section wires, since this determines the degree of heating of the insulation and the likelihood of a short circuit during operation. To cover the whole picture of electrification as a whole, it is necessary to prepare a detailed design with detailed diagram and electrical wiring specifications, and upon completion of the work, undergo certification and receive a wiring passport.
- The quality of the connections should not allow the slightest possibility of electric shock to the residents of the house.
- Heating and ignition of cables is unacceptable, as this will most likely lead to the arson of the entire house. The possibility of short circuits must be completely excluded.
The PUE encourages the installation of lighting in wooden houses using 12-volt lamps and LED equipment, which is considered the safest today. For example, in mines and mines, especially in those where there are accumulations of methane gas, and an explosion can occur from a single spark, all equipment is powered by a current of 12 volts. The same thing is done in cars.
A significant obstacle that makes it difficult to independently carry out work on installing wiring in a wooden house is the lack of a single document regulating the installation. The main regulations are dispersed in regulatory documents GOST and SNiP and are not systematized. Therefore, when drawing up a project, it is better to contact a specialized organization that has a license for this type of activity.
Preparation of a power supply project
Project documentation must include all details of future wiring. It displays the location of lighting fixtures, sockets, mounting boxes, and distribution boards. The specification describes in detail the brands of conductors used for wiring, their total number and nominal characteristics. All electrical devices involved in the power supply circuit, such as an electric meter, RAM, automatic machines and others, are calculated in advance to ensure compliance with the loads expected during operation.
An electrical supply project usually includes a wiring diagram indicating the markings of the cables used, the type of devices to be installed and the calculated load on each of them The presence of a project is a sign of a civilized and responsible approach to business.
You can, of course, route the cables without it, but:
- practice shows that installing wiring without a preliminary design usually costs 10–15% more. At the same time, errors are possible, the correction of which also costs money;
- In the event of a fire, the insurance company will require a certified home electrification plan. In its absence, damage coverage will be delayed indefinitely (until the circumstances are clarified). It's good if only one house burns down. In densely populated areas, a fire can spread to neighboring areas. The culprit will be the owner of the wooden structure from where the fire began to spread. The only way to prove your non-involvement is to present a certified plan for the electrification of the premises;
- Having a plan significantly reduces the cost of preventative and repair work on electrical wiring in the process further exploitation, and also helps to quickly find and eliminate the source of damage to the power supply.
A full-fledged project consists not only of drawings, but also of a detailed description of all elements and equipment. It usually includes:
- A graphic representation of all levels of living space, on which, using accepted symbols, the locations of cable routes, consumers and electrical equipment are reflected.
- Single-line electricity supply diagrams.
- Detailed calculations of grounding loops.
- Cross-sectional area of conductors.
- List of switching devices.
- Maximum current and voltage of the meter.
- Calculations of power of electrical receiving devices.
In addition, the project must provide for external lighting of the site and the connection of courtyard buildings - bathhouses, garages, utility rooms.
The electrical wiring project for a private house must contain a calculation and diagram of the installation of external lighting in the adjacent area Project documentation is developed in several stages:
- Formulation of the problem. Power supply is planned in accordance with the technical specifications and conditions. The customer expresses his vision to the contractor orally or using a diagram. As one of the options, a design project can serve as an order form.
- Development and approval of the project. If necessary, the project is protected and approved by representatives of inspection organizations. The parameters of electrification and their compliance with regulatory documentation are being clarified.
- Project implementation support. Sometimes it is also called installation supervision, during which the designer directly monitors the execution of the work.
Calculation of cable cross-section
Calculation of conductors consists of determining two parameters:
In conditions of increased fire safety requirements, the rules require the mandatory use of three-core wires. This measure is dictated by the need for protective grounding of the entire power supply system.
In private houses, wiring should be done with a three-core cable: one core is the phase wire, the second is neutral, the third is grounding Table: selection of cable cross-section depending on current strength
| Cable cross-section laid openly | Single-phase connection, 220 V | Three-phase connection, 380 V | Section of the cable laid in the pipe | ||
| Continuous current when the cable is heated to 60 o C | power, kWt | Continuous current when the cable is heated to 60 o C | power, kWt | ||
| 0,5 | 10 | 2,2 | |||
| 0,75 | 13 | 2,8 | |||
| 1 | 15 | 3,3 | 12 | 8 | 1,5 |
| 1,5 | 20 | 4,4 | 18 | 12 | 2,5 |
| 2,5 | 30 | 6,6 | 27 | 18 | 4 |
| 4 | 40 | 8,8 | 35 | 23 | 6 |
| 6 | 50 | 11 | 45 | 30 | 10 |
| 10 | 75 | 16,5 | 65 | 43 | 16 |
Calculation of electrical installation devices
Electrical installation devices - sockets, switches and distribution boxes are selected based on the technological conditions of their operation.
Selection of input cable and circuit breaker at the input
Proper electrical input into the home is of great importance in ensuring the safety of electrical wiring. When choosing a cable and a circuit breaker, you should take into account that in the future the load on it will only increase - the number of household appliances and units that are used at home increases over time.
The cross-section of the input cable must be calculated for the future: over time, the number of electrical devices used and their total power consumption will only increase The electrician's task is to choose a cable that will ensure the use of electrical devices without the risk of overvoltage of the input conductor. The optimal placement of the input circuit breaker (AB) is considered to be its location in front of the meter. Its task is to turn off the internal network in case of excessive current consumption, for example, during a short circuit. But at the same time, it should not turn off at the maximum permissible load. In order to calculate the rating of the input AV independently, use the formula I nom = P/U x cos(f), where I nom is the rated current, P is the total power of all devices, cos(f) is the power factor, which for most electrical appliances can be considered equal to one. 10% is added to the resulting rated current value and the circuit breaker is selected relative to it. Most often, in a private house, an AB with a nominal value of 25 A is sufficient.
The input circuit breaker must withstand the maximum load from all switched on electrical appliances, but open the network when too high currents occur, for example, from a short circuit Three-phase power supply for a private house
Overwhelming majority wooden houses use single-phase power. But if you plan to use high-power units - for example, powerful electric welding or woodworking machines - a three-phase current supply is required. In this case, to calculate the installation devices, you need to contact a specialist. Calculations are made using more complex formulas and in relation to a specific situation.
Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a wooden house
If you have an agreed project, completed in accordance with all legal standards, you can install the electrical wiring yourself. To do this you need to stock up necessary tools and materials, as well as familiarize yourself with safety regulations. Let's consider the main stages of home electrification.
Installation of distribution board
The distribution board is the main control point for electrical energy. It is a cabinet containing devices for monitoring and metering current consumption. Can be metal or made of dielectric plastic.
The distribution panel contains control and monitoring devices for the electrical network: meters, circuit breakers, residual current devices, etc. The shield is mounted in a place convenient for use, at a height of 1.5 to 1.7 m from the floor surface. Most often, it is placed near the front door in such a way that when leaving you can turn off the electricity, and when returning you can turn it on. An input cable is connected from the power lines to the switchboard, and then the electricity is distributed throughout the house. The following is installed inside the shield:
- electricity consumption meter;
- circuit breakers on DIN rail;
- RCD (residual current device);
- buses for grounding and neutral circuit output.
An input circuit breaker can also be located here, but it is also practiced to locate it outside the house at the connection point overhead line to your home network. This option makes sense, since the risk of excessive load on the input cable is significantly reduced.
Installation of the distribution board is done first. Particular attention should be paid to the selection of automation, using proven and reliable brands devices from well-known manufacturers.
Video: review of a switchboard for a private home
Cable entry indoors
There are two options for introducing the cable from the power line into the house.
- An aerial method that uses a self-supporting insulated conductor.
- Underground method when the cable is brought into the room from underground.
The first option is more common due to its speed and efficiency. The second one is more expensive, but has a number of advantages, such as long service life and independence from atmospheric disasters.
The underground cable entry method is more labor-intensive, but more reliable and durable In any case, the rules require that the cable be inserted into a wooden house through a metal thick-walled (from 2.5 to 3.3 mm) pipe. Its interior must be painted or galvanized, and the installation is carried out at an angle of 3–5 o to the horizontal plane so that the resulting condensate can flow out freely (GOST R 50571.15–97 (IEC 364 5 52 93): clause 522.3.2).
The cable is inserted into a wooden house through a metal sleeve, which is placed at an angle to organize condensate drainage. The installation of the metal sleeve and the cable entry are always carried out from the outside of the wall. The installer must have the appropriate qualifications and approval. Most often, this work is performed by employees of the energy supply organization.
Video: introducing cable into the house and connecting to the switchboard
Installation of switches and sockets
In wooden buildings there are certain nuances in the installation of switches and sockets.
Otherwise, the installation of sockets and switches is no different from installation in a stone building.
- First, the wall is marked. It is best to use this building level or laser level.
- Next, socket boxes or protective platforms are installed.
- The device base is mounted on them.
- After connecting to the wires, the outer casing is attached.
All of the above applies to distribution boxes. It is recommended to design wiring in such a way as to reduce their number to a minimum.
Wire connection
Based on the same premises of increased fire hazard, it is recommended that conductor connections in wooden buildings be made using factory terminal blocks. Twisting is allowed only in case of additional soldering of current-carrying conductors and using plastic caps.
Wire connections must be made using special terminal blocks; twists can only be used as a last resort Grounding and installation of RCDs
A residual current device (RCD) is designed to protect people (and pets) from electric shock in the event of a possible leak on damaged insulation or the metal casing of household appliances.
In the diagram electrical wiring in a private house it is necessary to provide an RCD device that protects against electric shock in case of accidental leaks The device is capable of detecting minimal leakage and responding to it by opening the circuit. The level of sensitivity depends on the brand of the device. The choice is made according to the main parameter - leakage current, which is expressed in milliamps. If the RCD is included in the whole house protection scheme, a leakage current value of 30 mA is sufficient. If the device is intended to protect individual rooms, for example, a bathroom or toilet, select a higher sensitivity of 10 mA. An RCD is installed in the distribution board. The connection diagram provides for the location of the RCD in front of the circuit breakers.
The residual current device for the general circuit of the house is selected for a leakage current of 30 mA Video: connecting a circuit breaker and an RCD
The same tasks are assigned to grounding all electrical installations inside the house. Separately, we can say about the grounding device. In order for the stray current drainage system to work properly, you must adhere to the recommendations for independent arrangement grounding strip.
The grounding loop consists of three metal plates fixed to reinforcing pins To do this, you will need three-meter-long metal fittings and three-meter sections of corners.
Do not forget about the seasonal expansion and contraction of metal under the influence of changing air temperatures.
To prevent the grounding bus from being broken, a “compensation hump” is made in it, which is designed to absorb thermal changes.
Methods for open wiring
In practice, three types of external wiring are used in wooden houses:
The choice depends entirely on the aesthetic inclinations of the residents of the house. All the necessary materials are available for sale to realize your preferences in terms of design solutions.
Video: external wiring in a cable channel in a wooden house
Hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house
If for some reason the customer is not satisfied with the external location of the wiring in the house, the cables are routed in a hidden way. In a wooden structure this is a rather labor-intensive and painstaking procedure. Each wire, regardless of its thickness, must be packaged in a metal pipe. Socket boxes and distribution boxes must also be made of metal. The pipes are supposed to be protected from corrosion. To do this, they must be painted from the inside with moisture-resistant enamels, and small holes must be drilled at certain intervals to drain condensate. For the same purpose, it is necessary to place the pipe at a slope so that drops of moisture can flow out. To avoid damage to the insulation, the ends of the pipes are cleaned of sharp burrs and additionally equipped with plastic tips.
To install hidden wiring in a wooden house, cables inside the walls are laid in metal pipes and brought out into niches covered with metal sockets. 
The big disadvantage of hidden wiring in a wooden structure is the inaccessibility of the cables. If any problems occur, replacing the old cable with a new one will be very difficult. Nevertheless, this type of wiring has its fans. Especially among designers who are primarily concerned with the aesthetic design of the home.
Video: hidden wiring in a wooden frame
Wiring test
After completing the installation, the customer needs to invite employees of the electrical laboratory. The purpose of the test is to measure the resistance of the system as a whole, grounding resistance and check all automation: RCDs, circuit breakers, current flow meter. If all parameters comply with the standard, the customer receives a protocol signed by the responsible person. This document is presented to the service company when concluding an agreement to supply the facility with electricity.
After completion of the work, it is necessary to invite a specialist to check the system and obtain an electrical wiring test report When carrying out wiring installation activities yourself, it is important to observe personal safety measures. Electric shock can cause irreparable harm to health and cause death. Installation is carried out only when the power supply is turned off. Commissioning of equipment is carried out in the presence of an authorized representative of the design organization.
