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What is broaching in electrical engineering? Cable pulling is an important tool for SKSnik! Installation of electrical wiring in corrugated open method

My beloved broke down (and was happily found on the street!) fiberglass broach, which has been in many battles with holes, pipes and channels in the walls in the process of laying networks and even power cables. I looked for a replacement for it for a very long time, and somehow found one that more or less meets my quibbles and requirements. I will try to express my thoughts on this topic in the form of a short review.

What exactly is there? cable pulling? This is usually a flexible, durable and indestructible round structure, with the help of which soft and delicate cables are pulled into communication channels, boxes, corrugations and other similar things. The simplest example applications broaches- these are Internet users who pull twisted pair from floor to floor: a low-current riser is usually clogged with other cables and wires, a twisted pair cable is quite soft and it is very difficult (and sometimes impossible) to push through this mess. And the rigid (and at the same time flexible) broach fits perfectly and, due to its small diameter, passes perfectly through a bunch of cables. Then a twisted pair is attached to it and pulled.

In total, from those that I came across, there are three main types of broaches, classified according to the material from which its internal part is made:

• Fiberglass broaches. They have the greatest rigidity (and, apparently, price too), and withstand all tests of the type “you need to stick it into a small hole clogged with dirt and debris on the other side under suspended ceiling" They cope with a bang in the most difficult situations. Also, due to the structure of fiberglass, they tend to straighten out. This allows it to be used when laying cables in suspended ceilings Armstrong type: the broach twitches and pushes - since it goes almost in a straight line, you can immediately push it about five meters away, open the plate and catch it there. And all this can be done by one person. Here () we pulled the cables just like this. Minuses The problem with this broach is that fiberglass is a fragile material and if you bend it under a small radius and step on it, it will break. Now let’s imagine: we pull a twisted pair cable into an apartment, and there is almost an L-shaped turn. The cable won’t fit... if we pull harder, it’s crack! Minus the broach!
• Steel broaches. It feels like something in between (the price is also average - about 600-900 rubles per 10 meters) between fiberglass and some minimum required for work. Steel broach consists of steel tape or wire wrapped in a nylon sheath (nylon is a slippery material and this property is used in the manufacture of broaches). Due to the steel, it is stronger than nylon in bending and stretching, but at the same time it has greater flexibility in the longitudinal direction, which probably will not allow it to be used like fiberglass when throwing cables under ceilings. On the other hand, this flexibility will be useful when passing L-shaped turns in channels.
• Nylon broaches. I don’t really know why they are releasing them! It has only one plus - the price (150-300 rubles). They are made of pure nylon and do not straighten out at all - it can be useful for complete beginners who have problems with money. It can be used for pulling only in closed channels: boxes, pipes, and maybe a metal hose, since it also has a flexible head. As soon as I bought it for myself, I was immediately upset, and it has been lying around idle since the summer.

Steel broach Estiare (nylon coated)

So here's what I bought. I bought it from the Shop220.Ru store, having found it from a search. Description of broaching from the store - . While driving home, I looked at the packaging and was inspired by the description of possible additional accessories: here you have a device for gripping the broach itself (so as not to pull with your hands), and a special spring for quickly clamping cables, and even gel lubricant (BDSM?! ;))! Another cool thing is that all these devices are simply screwed onto the main part of the broach.

So, let's unpack the box. The bag with standard accessories is glued inside with tape, which prompted my question to the sellers: “Is there anything included in the kit?” - since nothing shook or dangled by ear while I was buying it (but the sellers, after asking about the broach, greeted me with the question: “Oh! And you connect the Internet, right?”) :) There are two accessories: a flexible head and a tail for attaching the broach cable.

The broach itself is heavy and durable in appearance, worth the money and well made. I also liked the idea with replaceable screw-on tips: you can, for example, using a flexible head, insert two meters of this broach into metal pipe, and then screw off the flexible head, put on the tail, attach the cable and pull the whole structure back, instead of pulling out the whole 10 meters (Yes, yes! These steel broaches start at 10 meters in length).

I was a little disappointed about self-straightening - it doesn’t straighten as quickly and strongly as fiberglass, but at the same time it has sufficient flexibility for acceptable work. I immediately decided to try it out: I scattered it around the apartment - in the photo below it straightened out on its own, and stuck it into the relatively clogged channel from the apartment to the stairwell. A little effort and the broach came out the other way. At this point, I recognized such synthetic tests as successful, assembled it and postponed it until the first large order - then we’ll see how it does in real work.

On this moment plastic pipes are the most popular. These include polyethylene pipes low pressure(PND). This material for the production of pipes has been used in our country since 1954. During this time he managed to establish himself with best side. Cable installation in HDPE pipes is carried out to protect against mechanical damage and impacts environment. Let's look at how to stretch a cable in a HDPE pipe using examples.

Varieties of low-density polyethylene products for laying communications

• corrugated- wide range of uses;
• smooth hard- mainly used outside building structures.

They occupied a special niche in wiring. Depending on their strength, they are divided into:

• Lungs- high degree of flexibility, thin walls. They can withstand light loads, so it is recommended to use them under cladding in walls and on ceilings.
• Average- the thickness is slightly greater than that of light pipes. Can be installed in walls and screeds.
• Heavy- low flexibility, thick walls. They are used in screeds and also buried in the ground. For bends it is worth using special couplings and corners.
• Reinforced- high strength indicators thanks to a special steel wire placed inside a plastic sheath.

Using the probe

Depending on the design, HDPE pipes are produced with or without a probe (broach).

A broach is a thin cable or wire that is used to pull the cable into the pipe. To make work easier, it is better to use double corrugation, inner wall which is smooth and made of LDPE, which facilitates the passage of wiring.

1. Start by measuring the desired length. The excess pipe is cut off with a knife or a special pipe cutter, and the probe is cut through with side cutters.

   When cutting the probe, be sure to hold the inner end, otherwise it may get stuck and it will be almost impossible to get out.

2. After cutting, bend the broach and hook it to the outer wall of the pipe. We wrap the cable around the wire or pierce the internal insulation.
3. Having tied the opposite end of the cable to a fixed object, you need to gradually pull the cable through the HDPE pipe. You can carry out this operation independently, or with a partner: one holds, the other holds out.
4. For better glide, it is worth wrapping the clutch of the broach and the cable with PVC electrical tape.

How to stretch a cable using various devices?

In the absence of a probe, cable pulling is possible using various devices. The complexity of the process increases slightly, but the required result is achieved in one of the following ways.

We use ultrasonic testing

A device for laying cable channels (UZK, cable conductor, bush) is an installation device designed for pulling cables. It consists of a rod (steel, nylon, fiberglass) and a nozzle (flexible or rigid). For long bushes, a reel or winding winch is supplied.

Stages of work:

• a device for laying cable channels is inserted inside the HDPE pipe;
• a cable is attached to the bush (you can use a cable stocking),
• The ultrasonic cable, replacing the cable, is pulled out of the pipe.

For ease of use, mechanical, electric or hydraulic winches are used that provide power traction. To improve the sliding of wires along HDPE pipes, special ointments can be used that will reduce the friction force and promote rapid passage.

Ultrasonic testing is not a cheap device; its price can reach several tens and even hundreds of thousands of rubles. It is used mainly by professional installers. For the home handyman it is unprofitable to use. Unless, of course, you can borrow it from friends or rent it.

Working with a vacuum cleaner or compressor

If the product is of small diameter, then inserting the cable into the HDPE pipe will not be difficult. The process is quite simple.

1. We attach a vacuum cleaner to one end of the pipe. On the other side, we insert a light thread/string with a weight (for example: a foam/foam rubber ball or cork) and, as the thread is inserted into the pipe, we unwind the spool.
2. After the thread has come out from the other side, we either fasten the wire, or, if the wire is too heavy, we attach the wire and pull it out reverse side string with cable or wire.
3. In the event that a wire was pulled, it is necessary to attach the wiring to it and pull it back, as in the case of a thread, with the probe inside.

We work with the compressor in the same way, but it must be placed on the side where the thread is inserted.

Magnetic device

The operating principle of this broach is extremely simple. It is necessary to attach a special magnet to the wire or cord being pulled; it reacts to an external magnet that the installer will use. All that is necessary is to insert a lightweight nylon cable with a magnetic tip into the pipe and, moving the magnet along the outside of the pipe, pull the cable through the pipe. From the opposite end, attach the thread to the cable and pull it back.

The method is used for pulling wires in cavities of walls, floors, ceilings and in HDPE pipes significant footage. There are magnetic devices for pulling in cable channels short length. A magnetic tip is attached to the end of the cable, which responds to a magnet attached to plastic rod to run the wire through the pipe.

Step-by-step installation of heating wire

In harsh winter conditions, to protect against freezing, heating of the pipes is required. It is difficult to get by with simple thermal insulation, so you can resort to an additional option -. It maintains the required temperature and prevents condensation.

Before inserting the heating cable into the HDPE pipe, it is worth focusing on some nuances:

• This heater can only be installed if the HDPE pipe diameter is greater than 20 mm.
• The length of the cable must be equal to the length of the heated area.
• The heated area must have a minimum of fittings, turns must be natural.
• Do not pull the wire into the pipe through shut-off valves.
• The installation location must be marked with a warning notice.
• It is forbidden to fix the power cable and coupling with the gland and bushing included in the kit.

Sequencing:

1. The first step is to process the ends. We clean off the insulating shell by about 4.5 cm. The metal cores are not needed, so we cut them off flush with the coating. We remove the protective shell of the matrix.
2. Then, step by step, we cut off part of it. We put adhesive heat shrink on this area and warm it up thoroughly. construction hairdryer. Then we crimp.
3. After it has cooled, cut off the excess. Then we put the heat-shrinkable sleeve of the largest diameter on top of the previous one, and pull it onto the protective sheath of the cable. Warm up, crimp, remove excess. You can use a heat shrink cap.
4. We connect the power cable to the heating cable. Needs to be prepared in advance power cable, at the end of which there is a Euro plug. You must first remove the insulating shell:
   • cutting off 4.5 cm transversely, remove the outer protective coating;
   • twist all the wires into one;
   • remove the insulation, retreating about 2.5 cm, approach the self-regulating matrix with 2 conductors;
   • it is necessary to remove 2 conductive wires, stripping them on both sides.

     To make the job easier, you can heat the coating with a lighter or hair dryer. Having taken out the cores, it is necessary to remove the unnecessary part of the matrix.

5. We thread the power cable into the longest adhesive coupling of a smaller diameter, and into the larger coupling we insert the heating cable into the HDPE pipe. We crimp the edges of the 2 heater cores onto a tinned copper sleeve.
6. On the other hand, we insert the ends of the protected current-carrying wires of the power supply and carefully crimp them.
7. We thread them into couplings of smaller diameter and heat them up, starting from the center.
8. It is necessary to connect the twisted braid to the ground of the power wire. Having cut off the excess, put on the sleeve and carefully crimp it.
9. Then you need to move the heat shrink and insulate the assembly.
10. Lastly, we isolate the grounding unit by moving an external heat-shrinkable pipe of a larger diameter onto this connection and warm it up. We install the heater.
11. To ensure tightness at the entry point, a penetration is used. All fasteners must be carefully tightened. We twist the clamping sleeve with our hands and tighten the connection with a wrench.
12. Before connecting the system, make sure that the cable will not pass through shut-off valves. We connect to the power supply system.

If everything is chosen correctly and the work is done carefully, you don’t have to worry about frozen pipes in winter.

For various reasons, it is not always possible to lay an electrical cable underground to an object that needs to be provided with electricity. In such cases, the technology of laying cables or individual wires through the air on a cable is successfully used. In the article we will look at how to install and lay a cable on a cable to a house or garage, and what types of fastening are used.

Scope of technology

Such technologies are used only in electrical networks with a voltage not exceeding 1000 volts, the requirement of the PUE is Chapter 2.1. In most cases, the laying of cables on cables is used from buildings or power lines to individual structures over short distances. Where installation of power line supports or digging trenches for cables is impossible according to technical specifications production during the operation of facilities, or unreasonably in terms of the volume of work performed, is expensive from a financial point of view.

IN production workshops, warehouses, structures with large areas, high ceilings, the best option for lighting is to use these technologies. Cable cables are used for electrical networks of street lighting in certain areas.

For private home owners, this wiring method eliminates the time-consuming work of digging a trench. It’s easier to stretch a cable through the air from the distribution board in the house to outbuildings:

• workshop;
• summer kitchen;
• gazebo with barbecue;
• chicken coop;
• bathhouse and other possible structures in the courtyard of a private household.

Cable wiring allows you to conduct light three-wire wires for electrical consumers of low power and cables with wires large section for powerful power supply household appliances. Before proceeding with the installation of cable wiring, preliminary calculations are required.

Preliminary measures before installation

At the first stage, it is necessary to determine how much power will be consumed by electrical appliances in the structures that are planned to be provided with electricity. Based on the power consumption, the cross-section of the cable wires is calculated, its length and weight are taken into account. These parameters determine which fasteners to use, the diameter and material of the cable. To calculate power consumption and cable cross-section, a more detailed study of a separate topic is required. In simplified form it looks like this:

• The power of all electrical appliances is summed up, which are supposed to be used in the calculated network. The power of each device is indicated in product passports or nameplates on the housing. The simplest example of a lighting lamp is always written 40 on them; 60; 75 or 100 or more watts.

∑Р = P1 + P2 +…Pn = 3.7 kW. (3700 W) – Total power.

• Determine the maximum possible current in the circuit

I = ∑Р/ U=3700 W/220 V = 16.8 A. – Maximum current.

U – network voltage.

• To determine the cross-section of wires in a cable, use the table

In our case, we choose a maximum current value slightly greater than 19A, taking into account that in the future additional Appliances. According to the table, we obtain a power of 4.1 kW, which corresponds to a copper wire cross-section of 1.5 mm. You need to understand that the cross section is not the diameter, it is calculated using the formula:

Experienced electricians are well aware of the standards of cables and wires and determine the cross-section by eye. For ordinary consumers, there are tables for determining the cross-section by diameter, it is enough to measure the diameter of the wire with a micrometer or caliper and determine its cross-section using the table.

• The next stage of preliminary work, cable length measurement from the distribution board in the house to the switchgear (switchgear) on the building to which the cable structure is stretched. This can be done with a regular tape measure,

Tip #1. Be sure to take into account the cable reserve for cutting and connecting to the control panel; add approximately 30 cm at both ends.

Selecting the diameter and material of the cable

Determine the weight of the cable and other elements that will be attached to it. If the distance between the supporting fasteners is 5-6 m and the weight of the wire is not significant, you can stretch galvanized steel wire with a diameter of 2-3 mm. When the distance is more than 10 m, the cable is heavy, especially if the cable structure is used with lighting elements, galvanized cable is used steel rope with Ø 4-6.5 mm. Such a cable will withstand any cable with a wire cross-section of up to 10 mm/sq.m; larger cables are not used in private households due to limited power consumption. You can also hang up to 5 pieces on such a cable. lighting lanterns in a lightweight housing.

The cable can be wound and weighed on ordinary scales, or calculated by knowing its brand according to the characteristics table, which is included with the sale. The weight of the cable per 1 m is indicated, you need to multiply the specified weight by the number of meters you get total weight piece, which is used for fastening to a steel cable.

For domestic conditions, in order not to waste money, you can hang the cable that was used for hidden wiring. In order for the insulation to last longer, lay it in a corrugated pipe; its weight is not significant. There are reference tables indicating the brand and weight of the cable. You can look it up on the Internet; some sites have calculators for calculating the length and weight of wires and cables.

Tip No. 2 Use the calculator on this site http://kabelves.ru/

Table indicating the cable brand and weight in kg. by 1 meter

For high current loads, it is better to use special cables for overhead cable structures:

• AVT, AVTS, APT already have a built-in supporting steel cable;
• AVRG, ANRG, APVG, AVVG are suspended from a supporting steel cable.

Supporting and tensioning elements of cable wiring

These products are installed on the walls of buildings, structures between which tension is stretched. Depending on the material and diameter of the cable, the fastening design is selected:

• Tension bolt, hook and tension anchor are used for flexible stranded cables industrial production bearing heavy loads, rolled wire with a diameter of up to 6 mm can be used.
• Anchors for tensioning strings with a small diameter are designed for light wires with a cross-section of up to 6 mm at a distance of up to 10 meters, without elements lighting fixtures.
• Anchors for industrial cables and wire rods are capable of supporting heavy cables and lighting elements at a distance of up to 12 m without additional supports.
• Tension fasteners parallel lines often used for dual purposes, for power supply to buildings and placement of lighting lanterns. A power cable with a wire cross-section of 10 -35 mm/sq. is laid along one cable; on the second, lighting fixtures, distribution boxes with copper wire 2.5 – 4 mm.

All these designs have individual features when installed on the walls of buildings.

Requirements for installation of end fastenings and installation features

Never attach end pieces to decorative cladding buildings and roofing details. Devices designed for heavy loads are fixed on both sides load-bearing wall steel plates fastened with through bolts. As shown in the picture for tension bolt with hook. They must be located above pedestrian passages at a height of at least 2.7 m, and above vehicle passages at least 6 m. Anchors for strings with lighter loads can be secured with simple anchor screws for concrete.

Ideally, tension anchor devices are installed in the wall during the construction of buildings according to the project. In practice, this is not always provided for; then you have to drill into the walls with a hammer drill. Under the end fastening, a metal plate with a bolted contact is attached at 20-30 cm for grounding the cable. It is connected by welding to rolled wire with a cross-section of at least 16 sq/mm, which goes to the common ground loop. In some cases, grounding is performed with a separate copper wire with a cross-section of at least 2.5 sq/mm bolted connections.

Laying the cable on a cable when connecting to the wall

Installation and tension of the cable

After installing the terminal fastenings, the cable is attached to the guy wire on the ground, lighting fixtures with junction boxes are fixed and connected. Assembled structure is delivered to the installation site and unwound along its entire length from one mounting anchor to another.

The length of the cable must be at least 2 m greater than the distance between the end anchors. The reserve will be needed to seal the fastening to the terminal devices and bring the ends to the grounding terminals, which are located below the anchors. The end loops of the cable are attached to the tension anchors, after which they regulate the tension. The tensile force should be up to 100 kg/cm for light structures with cables with a cross-section of 4-10 sq./mm. For heavy cables with a cross-section of 16 – 25 sq./mm – up to 500 kg./cm. This parameter is measured by a dynamometer, which is installed between the anchor and the tension loop.

After tensioning the cable, the ends of the cable are grounded, the cable is inserted into distribution devices and connected to protective circuit breakers.

Elements for fastening the cable to the cable

To securely fix the cable with the cable, there are several devices:

The simplest method cable twisting with stretching using ordinary aluminum wireØ 2.5 – 5 mm with insulation. At connections every 50 -80 cm, 7-8 turns of wire are made, tightly turn to turn. To prevent the cable insulation from being pressed through by the fastening wires, the fastening point is wrapped with a rubber plate, and the wire is wound on top. It is recommended to use rubber for gaskets from old car cameras for wheels;

The device is attached to a guy wire, the cable is laid in a groove, covered with a strap, which is threaded into the lock, tightened and securely fixed. The lock is designed in such a way that the strap cannot be pulled out in the opposite direction; to remove it, you can only cut it.

Plates are produced with loops of different sizes. One plate is put on the cable and the other on the cable. In the center of the plates there is a hole with a thread for a bolt; they are aligned and tightened with a bolt.

All connections, regardless of the design, are installed after 50 - 80 cm.

Distribution boxes and lighting devices for cable mounting

To fasten distribution boxes, special galvanized iron plates with cut-out shapes are used. A part of the plate is bent from the cut-out shape, a cable and a box are inserted, after which everything is fixed with bent elements.

To fasten lighting fixtures, galvanized plates of a special shape are used, but the principle of fastening remains the same, shown in the figure.

• Cable;
• Plate;
• Cable;
• Junction box;
• Lampshade with lamp socket.

Frequently asked questions for electricians

Question No. 1. You can tighten the cable, then attach the cable and other elements?

It is possible if the installation conditions on site allow this to be done without compromising safety when working at height. But after this you will definitely have to increase the tension, since the load on it will increase.

Question No. 2. What wire should be used to connect the fasteners under the anchor to the ground loop?

Depending on your capabilities, rolled wire with a welded connection or copper, preferably with yellow-green insulation, as determined by the PUE. The cross-section of the wires must be at least 2.5 sq/mm.

Question No. 3. Can I use a cable as a neutral wire?

Yes, provided that it is properly grounded.

Question No. 4. What type of circuit breaker should I install for the cable routed through the cable?

The design of the cable outlet in this case does not matter; the circuit breaker is installed based on the maximum load current in this circuit.

Question No. 5. Can distribution boxes be hung for outdoor wiring?

In accordance with the rules for installing electrical equipment, corrugated pipes are used when laying low-current networks or electrical wiring. This is due to the fact that the corrugation is a pronounced dielectric that protects the wiring from mechanical and thermal effects.

What is corrugation

Corrugated cable installation

Corrugation, despite its simple design, is considered one of the most useful and sought-after inventions of mankind. Visually, it is a pipe with a ribbed surface, which simultaneously gives it rigidity and flexibility. Corrugation is made from various materials, the most popular are metal, aluminum, and plastic pipes.

Corrugation happens different diameters, indicators range from 10 mm to 2 m. This product has a wide range of applications.

Scope of application of corrugated pipes

Corrugation allows you to lay electrical wiring of any complexity and length with the least number of turns and joints

Corrugated pipes are widely used in different areas industry, as well as for domestic purposes.

• computer networks (white);
• general electrical wiring (gray);
• connecting electrical appliances, household appliances (brown);
• pad telephone lines(green);
• external wiring (red);
• to connect heating systems, heated floor (blue);
• gas supply systems (yellow).

For electrical cables, special electrical corrugations made of polyvinyl chloride are most often used.

How to insert a wire into a hose

Correct connection of the string with the wire installed in the corrugation

1. Remove the end of the wire (a kind of cable or string) from the hose and connect it to the cable being installed. A hole is made in the wire winding, a thin wire is pushed through it and securely fixed by twisting.
2. The hose is leveled along its entire length, only after this can you begin to wind the cable into the corrugation.
3. One worker firmly holds the end of the pipe from which the cable is wound, and the second pulls the wire from the other side. This approach allows the wire to be pushed through efficiently.
4. The fully extended wire must be wound to the pipe to prevent the structures from moving relative to each other.

There are common cases when the wire gets stuck inside the corrugation. This is due to the weakening of its tension or the formation of bends. Until the end of the pulling process, it is important to monitor the condition of the hose.

How to stretch a wire

Scheme of pulling wire into corrugation

You can route electrical cables along walls or ceilings using special clips. Their diameter is selected in accordance with the cross-section of the corrugation. This method is more common because it securely fixes the pipes and has an attractive appearance. In hidden places, it is preferable to use dowel screws or metal staples.

When laying pipes, the joints are connected using a low-cost connecting element - a coupling. If the wires in this section are not insulated, the place of attachment to the pipe coupling can be sealed with sealant. To pass through the walls, special perforated sleeves are used, which, if necessary, are also treated with sealant.

When pulling cables through corrugations, it is important to avoid bends that exceed the permissible radius.

Installation of electrical wiring in corrugated open method

Installation of exposed electrical wiring in a wooden house

Installation of corrugated pipes includes several stages. Algorithm for installing electrical wiring in corrugation open method:

1. To fix the hose, special clips made of high-quality plastic are used. They are characterized different sizes, the choice will depend on the diameter of the pipes used.
2. Clips are attached to surfaces at intervals of 30-40 cm. This is done using dowel screws or self-tapping screws. The choice of parts depends on the material from which the surface is made, for example, wood, concrete, brick, etc.
3. For reliable fixation, the corrugation is pressed into the clip until a characteristic click appears. If the clips were selected correctly, the possibility of spontaneous loss is excluded.

At the design stage, when laying out a schematic wiring path, you need to take into account the following important points:

• The maximum and permissible radius of rotation of the corrugation is 90 degrees. The smoother the angle, the better.
• Turns should not be close to each other, optimal distance between them – 4-5 meters. If this is not possible, for safety reasons the wiring is additionally equipped with a junction box.
• The maximum length of an individual section is 25 meters, the permissible number of turns is 4.

How many wires can be laid in one corrugation

Selection table for corrugated pipes depending on the number of wires and cross-sectional sizes

According to the rules for installing electrical installations, it is necessary to lay the main and backup cables, as well as the cores of emergency and working lighting, through different channels.

Approximate calculation of how many cables can be laid in one corrugation:

• With a diameter of 16, 3 cables fit.
• If it is 20, 4-5 will fit.
• Diameters greater than 25 accommodate 5-6 cables.

The exact quantity is calculated provided that the pipe length is at least 35 meters.

If the integrity is damaged metal constructions soldered using a special acid. If the integrity of the plastic corrugation is damaged, the holes are welded with polyethylene.

The advantages of corrugation are its affordable cost, light weight, which greatly simplifies the process of transportation and installation, high resistance to thermal and mechanical influences, and long service life.

As a rule, there are no difficulties when choosing and installing corrugated pipes. During work, you must observe personal safety precautions when working with electrical cables It is important to de-energize the room and check the voltage in the conductors.

Communication cables are like arteries through which information flows - the lifeblood of our society. A modern city dweller, left without communication, feels blind and deaf at the same time, and therefore, when choosing a provider, a person pays considerable attention to its reputation in terms of the reliability of its networks. Accordingly, the quality of network installation affects their reliability, that is, the reputation of the provider, and therefore the number of its subscribers and the income that these subscribers bring to it. This article was written to reveal some of the nuances of cable laying - some tricks of installers, as well as some mistakes. As experts, we invited installers from one of the oldest providers in Yekaterinburg - the Kabinet company. These people have been working on Yekaterinburg roofs for many years, so it is difficult to find better consultants in the field of cable pulling.

So, the roofs of Yekaterinburg. Some time ago, during the time of a huge number of pioneer nets, a mass of people appeared on the roofs of our city pulling copper, and later optical cables. As a result, some roofs now have a veritable web of cables from a variety of providers. Since the cables were not marked before, it is now no longer possible to establish the identity of some links - some of them have long been dead, but no one is in a hurry to remove their used cables. Now all serious providers mark their cable. Some use tags for these purposes, others mark the cable itself.

In addition, providers are currently trying to maintain all their links in one large bundle, rather than distributing them haphazardly across the entire roof. In new houses, where a smart HOA rules the roost, all operators are allocated certain points for cable entry and exit, and sometimes the entire route along their roof is marked. And they do not give permission for installation; if the provider does not agree to their conditions, the provider is prohibited from installing. As a result, in such houses, trunk and house cables from several operators can run in touching unity in a single large bundle. Although, in order to avoid unnecessary dominance, many HOAs try not to allow a large number of cables into their homes, not only out of a desire to get a kickback, but also not wanting to clog their risers and roofs with numerous cables.

So, on the one hand, the cable is protected from friction by the corrugation, on the other hand, it will soon wear out from friction and temperature changes. And it will be difficult to replace her. The slack that the installers left during the installation to reduce friction seems unnecessary - in winter, icicles are guaranteed to form on it. Wouldn't it be better to make the transition along a metal cable, leaving slack only at the bend line at the edge of the roof? We'll talk more about ways to protect cables from friction below.

Now the input - two cables wrapped in corrugation enter one hole in the wall. The edges of the corrugated tubes are sealed with sealant. But that section of the cable that directly passes through the wall is not protected by anything other than its own insulation. We make an adjustment for the aforementioned slack, which gives windage in the wind, and we get the friction that will certainly arise in the hole. Could it be possible to pass the same corrugation through the same hole in order for the cable to sit more tightly in the hole and receive additional protection from friction?

Another input method is via dormer windows and attics. It is immediately worth noting that no one intended the dormer windows for laying cables. When old houses were built, these windows were usually made of wood, but over time the wood rotted and was replaced by iron.

In one case, the fastening runs parallel to the cable, preventing it from bending. In another, the same fastening leads the cable to a break. Here the installer himself didn’t think enough.

Wire is another matter - the climate is not terrible for it. And not to say that working with wire is much more inconvenient than working with ties. To illustrate his theory, he showed a "trick" of the Kabinet installers - a proprietary wire tie, so to speak. The end of the wire is wrapped into a loop with side cutters, the other end of the wire is threaded into this loop and voila:

Pulling the cable along the roof itself also requires considerable effort from the installer, and he also has to work with his head. On the one hand, there is a technology according to which cables must be pulled over roofs using special masts that have special places for attaching couplings, and space for technological reserves, and special guy wires, of which there must be at least four, and they must diverge in different sides for greater stability of the mast.

But technology is technology, and shortcomings occur even among those who install these masts (and there are few such providers in our city). Pay attention to the lower part of the mast. If you do everything according to your mind, then the mast should have not four, but eight guy wire holders - equally distributed in the upper and lower parts. But the installers of this mast did not go for such luxuries - limiting themselves to only four guys in the upper part. As a result, the top of the mast is quite securely fixed, and the lower one will sooner or later begin to move.

The mast looks new - it hasn't been standing longer than a couple of months. And due to the lack of fixation at the base, it is already tilting. Moreover, on top part This mast is pressed by the weight of the coupling and technical reserve. As a result, this mast can be brought down with a light kick to the base. But even without a kick, such a design will not last very long. Moreover, the stretch marks in the upper part also do not inspire confidence, because they are secured like this:

That is, the cable mount is simply driven into the ventilation shaft pipe. Firstly, this destroys the pipe itself, and the local housing office workers, if they climbed onto the roof, are unlikely to be happy with this picture. Secondly, this method of fastening in itself is short-lived - a strong gust of wind will sooner or later pull out the cable along with the fastening, and then what? Re-hammer it into the pipe? Until the next gust of wind? So soon the pipe will only be holes...

More The right way the mount looks like this:

Around ventilation pipe or other stable structure firmly standing on the roof, a metal cable or wire of considerable cross-section is wrapped around it. You can safely attach the mast guy wires to the resulting loop, although most Ekaterinburg providers attach the cable directly. This solution is much more durable and does not harm the structure to which it is attached.

It is known that a significant part of the masts belongs to Rostelecom (formerly Uralsvyazinform), which inherited these masts along with wired radio networks. Other operators also install their own masts to a greater or lesser extent. Rostelecom masts are actively used by other providers to extend their lines.

Unfortunately, not all installers do this in compliance with technological standards - here is an example of how RT-Ural telephone masts cannot be used.

If RT-Ural installers find themselves on the same roof, they will probably simply cut off someone else’s cable that was thrown through their mast with such impudence. If I were them, I would cut them off.

However, Rostelecom masts are not found everywhere. In their absence, many Ekaterinburg providers are stretching using dormer windows, ventilation shafts and, in general, any large roof structures suitable for cable fastening

It is still worth remembering that using ventilation pipes when pulling cables is not always correct. Here are cases of obvious violation of any laying technology:

In the first case, the cable is attached to an old rusty ventilation pipe, which is already tilting even without additional load. It is unlikely that much time will pass before the cable, swaying under the influence of the wind, tears out this pipe. And the cable will remain without support and the housing office will be saddened.

In the second case, the cable is routed directly through the ventilation pipe. Through this hole, warm air flows from the apartments come out - including hot air, formed over kitchen stoves residents of this house. Under the influence of the jet warm air Any insulation will sooner or later begin to melt.

It would be more correct to choose strong and massive superstructures on the roof as a support for the cable and lay the cable not through them, but along the outer perimeter of such superstructures. To attach the cable to their walls, methods that do not lead to damage to the superstructure are acceptable - the same wire loop around the superstructure. The cable can be secured to massive, durable superstructures using spacers:

What you definitely shouldn’t do is just throw the cable through such add-ons. Equals Rubbing the cable against a corner will damage it.

The technology used by Kabinet's installers provides for transitions in such cases - the guys make one of them right in front of me. In a good way, every time the cable can come into contact with the corner of such a booth, the edge of the roof or the corner of a ventilation pipe, you should put Here's the transition:

That is, if during pulling there is some obstacle that the cable will rub against, then an insert of a metal cable is made in the area in contact with the obstacle, and the cable makes a small wave. This allows you to go around the dangerous area. In this way, you can bypass almost any potentially dangerous areas, be it the corners of buildings or roof railings. Such a transition will not take much time - the experienced Kabinet "sheep with me did it in about five minutes. Those who neglect this simple solution, risk one day seeing your cable frayed:

Rubber gaskets and corrugations do not cope here, since very often they either fray themselves or slide off due to friction:

Corrugations and rubber gasket tubes are good for protecting a cable from another cable. In conditions where the entire roof is entangled with cables, situations inevitably arise when the cables cross and rub against each other. Here corrugated tube just right.