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Cable laying in a frame wall. Electrical wiring in a frame house. Hidden wiring

In this part of the article about building an extension to a house, we’ll talk about internal insulation of the ceiling, walls and floor.

Fortunately, I have many friends whose hands grew out of place. It is fortunate that each of them specializes in a certain type of work. Having decided to insulate the newly built rooms from the inside, I called for help from a former classmate who specialized in apartment renovation.

Covering the ceiling and walls with plasterboard

Covering walls with plasterboard slabs allows you not only to insulate the room, but also to level the walls, and also achieve significant sound insulation. Once you invest money and labor in insulation, you will save on heating every year.
There is also a drawback to this construction procedure: covering the walls steals some of the usable space from the room.

Interior work of this kind can be done at any time of the year, especially if the room is heated. Minor temperature changes are not harmful to finished sheets of drywall. It was such a lucky coincidence that during the winter we managed to completely sheathe one of the rooms.

We started by installing profiles on the ceiling. For this purpose, narrow starting UD profiles were screwed strictly according to the level with dowels on two opposite walls, right at the junction of the walls and the ceiling. The wooden ceiling beams to which the wide main LED profiles will be attached go from window to window, so the starting profiles, in order to attach to the beams, must go perpendicular to them.
This means that the starting profiles will be fixed parallel to the beams, in the position of the letter P outward. The main profiles, on the contrary, are secured with self-tapping screws to wooden beams in the letter P position inward. On the ceiling, both edges of each segment of the main SD profile fit into the groove of the starting UD profile and were secured in them with short screws.

The distance between the profiles on the ceiling is 40cm, on the walls 60cm.
I think the principle is clear - keeping even fixed slabs in a horizontal position on the ceiling is much more difficult than when they are in a vertical position. Therefore, we will screw them on the ceiling more often, i.e. more reliable than on the walls.

When calculating the location of the profiles, it is necessary to take into account the size of the plasterboard sheets, because the joint of the sheets must be in the middle of the profile width so that the plasterboard can be secured. The dimensions of 40 and 60 cm were not chosen by chance; they are determined by the width of the plasterboard, which is 120 cm.

The profiles are fixed to the walls and ceiling with suspension plates (I chose universal 60/125 due to the length reserve). Each suspension was secured with two dowels to each wooden ceiling beam, and on the walls every 40 centimeters. This figure is not strict; it is better to attach it to a foam concrete block and brick than to cement joints between them.

Due to the curvature of the walls, the same part of the profile is adjacent to the wall, sometimes closely, sometimes at a small distance. Therefore, the next operation was to vertically align the profile to a one and a half meter level. Having leveled the profile, both edges of the suspension were bent along its perimeter. The suspension was attached to the SD with small self-tapping screws, popularly called “fleas”.

Part of the suspension plate on both sides of the profile remains free. It can be cut, but it is easier to bend it back towards the wall. In case of insulation with glass wool, they will serve as its additional holders.

The profiles are made of soft metal, so at the joints the edges of one part of the profile are slightly crushed by hand and pushed a couple of centimeters into the other part, securing everything with the same “fleas”. In principle, there is no waste left.

If ceiling profiles leveled off starting profile UD, then the two outer ones are first mounted on the walls, the rest are aligned with them.

Convenience of delivery, relative cheapness, ease of installation - these are the positive characteristics of this building material. Another good thing about drywall is the ability to mark with a pencil levels on its surface, the projection of profiles, and places where screws are screwed in with metal screws.

We worked mainly as a screwdriver. We cut the drywall with a special knife for drywall and foam plastic. It looks the same as a paper cutter, only bigger size, blade thickness and length.

The sheet size is 1.2 m by 2.5 m, and the height is 2.35 m, the width and length of the smaller room are 3 and 4.2 m. Therefore, you get a lot of scraps that have to be fitted above/under windows and pipes. It is also good to work with solid sheets because only vertical profiles are needed for them (on the walls). When you “sculpt” the scraps, you have to additionally install horizontal profiles to securely fasten each piece of drywall around the entire perimeter. But in the end, plasterboard slabs create a flat surface. It will become ideal after puttying, then the joints of the plates and the heads of the screws will not be visible.

On the inside interior wall I considered the insulation unnecessary, but due to its curvature I decided to level the surface with plasterboard on one side.

The Izover I bought was wound into rolls of two layers. By unwinding the roll, you get a sheet 5 cm thick, which easily separates into two sheets, each 2.5 cm thick. It is worth noting that this nuance was very prudently conceived by the manufacturer. By buying one roll, you will not rack your brains over the problem of more/less insulation. For example, I laid sheets 5 cm thick on the ceiling, since only the roof protects the building from above, and 2.5 cm on the walls, since they are already insulated from the outside with polystyrene foam and half the thickness of Izover will be quite enough.

I have used this material before, insulating the roof of a barn with it. This is lightweight mineral wool, which is convenient to cut with the same drywall knife.

Since the roof is pitched, we started attaching the drywall in small pieces from the side of the ceiling above which the lower edge of the roof is located. The clearance there is minimal, therefore, having secured the first row of narrow strips of drywall, we immediately inserted the same narrow piece of Izover between it and the roof. Next, solid sheets of plasterboard were fixed to the ceiling, since the distance to the roof had become decent, and it was feasible to lay large pieces of Izover across the entire width of the room.

The same song applies to wall insulation, but the inconvenience here is of a different nature: the insulation must be kept in a vertical position until we fix the sheet of drywall. As it turned out, this issue is solved by primitively engaging the edges of the Isover with the profiles. We cut Izover with a width equal to the distance between the profiles fixed to the walls.

The result of internal insulation work

The internal insulation made itself felt literally the next day after we completed the work. At night I left the radiator in the room on the middle position. In the morning the thermometer showed +24°C, despite the fact that the temperature outside was -5°C.
I hope that the “thermos” effect will keep the indoors cool even in the summer heat.

Everyone who has a country house, no matter whether it is a simple country house or a respectable cottage, eventually comes to the thought that it would not be a bad idea to slightly increase its usable area. Some people need a garage, some are ready for a bathhouse, while others simply need a few square meters to install a small vestibule in front of the entrance to the house. Everyone's goals are different. But there is only one way to achieve these goals, in the vast majority of cases: this is the construction of a small one-story extension, closely adjacent to the main building.

And, what is very surprising, but nevertheless a fact - all home owners want to complete this extension as quickly as possible (before summer is over). And everyone, in a hurry, makes the same mistakes. One of the most common mistakes, or rather, avoidance, is the installation of poor-quality thermal insulation of the attached room. This error is truly widespread, and can be explained very simply. Not all summer residents and gardeners, by virtue of their profession, are involved in construction, and therefore, in the summer, forgetting about the need to insulate the walls of the room is a piece of cake for them. The most interesting thing is that everyone who, for some reason, did not insulate the walls of a wooden extension during construction will still have to do it sooner or later, and therefore will have to spend time collecting and studying the relevant information. Therefore, if you feel that the construction of your extension is not far off, take a couple of minutes and read this article to the end.

So, we are learning how to insulate the premises of an already erected extension.
First of all, it is necessary to determine how the room will be insulated - from the outside or from the inside. Modern building materials and technologies make it possible to do both. However, in relation to the dacha sector, the simplest and most economical option is internal insulation. That's what we'll decide - we'll insulate our extension from the inside.

The next step is choosing insulation. For an extension, a sufficient thickness of insulation is 50-75 mm. The most favorite type of insulation among summer residents is mineral wool slabs. I will not waste my and your precious time on detailed review the corresponding segment of the domestic market building materials, but I’ll immediately point out those manufacturers who produce the best (in terms of price-quality ratio) heat insulating materials based mineral wool:

• "ISOVER";
• "Rockwool";
• "URSA"
• "Izorok."

Price per 1 sq. m of mineral wool insulation from the above manufacturers is in the range of 65-90 rubles.

We sorted out the insulation. But insulation alone is not enough. Here is a list of other materials you will need for internal insulation our extension:

1. Wooden blocks (slats) of rectangular cross-section measuring 5x2 cm;
2. Pasted waterproofing (film or membrane), necessary to protect the insulation from moisture. The cost of waterproofing is approximately 20-40 rubles per 1 sq. m. m.;
3. Gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) 9.5-12.5 mm thick for external finishing cladding of insulated walls. Average cost - 70-80 rubles. for 1 sq.m.;
4. Profiled and fastening metal elements(for making a frame and fastening gypsum board sheets);
5. A little putty for sealing joints between plasterboard sheets.

The materials are complete. All that remains is to mount them correctly. The procedure for properly insulating an extension is as follows:

• Lathing arrangement: nail to inner surface walls and ceilings of our premises wooden blocks or boards (see item 1 of the list of materials) with a step of 50-75 cm (the step size is equal to the width of our heat-insulating boards);
• Installation of insulation: we lay mineral wool slabs along the sheathing of wooden blocks (both on the walls and on the ceiling);
• Waterproofing device: the surface of the installed insulation boards over the entire area is covered with waterproofing (see paragraph 2 of the list of materials);
• Installation of the frame for gypsum boards (see paragraph 4 of the list of materials): on top of the waterproofing coating of walls and ceilings we install horizontal and vertical metal profiles, which will subsequently support the outer plasterboard sheathing;
• Covering walls and ceilings with gypsum plasterboard sheets (see clause 3 of the list of materials);
• Sealing joints between sheets of drywall with putty, followed by cleaning;
• Finishing of the inner surface of walls and ceilings (optional): painting, tiling or any other type of finishing to your taste.

That's all! total cost materials for insulating the premises of a wooden extension with an area of ​​3x4 m and a height of 2.7 m is approximately 8-10 thousand rubles.

Almost every house has an extension in the form of a veranda, where you can spend a pleasant summer evening.

Usually it is built of wood, so it becomes unsuitable for the winter season. But there is a way out - insulating the veranda from the inside with your own hands.

Veranda layout.

The terrace is open area, therefore, as a rule, it is not insulated.

To insulate the veranda you need to stock up the following materials and tools:

• insulation. You can use penofol, mineral wool or some other;
• polystyrene foam. The thickness of the foam sheets depends on natural conditions terrain, as well as the size of the veranda;
• bars measuring 50x50 mm;
• polyethylene or foil;
• polyurethane foam;
• construction tape and paint;
• The tools you will need are scissors, a spatula, a knife, nails, a hammer, screws, a tape measure and brushes.

Warming the veranda floor

It is better to start insulating the veranda from the floor.

Floor boards in wooden houses are usually attached to joists laid on the ground. To insulate the floor, you must first free it from the boards. Next, you need to lay wooden blocks measuring 50x50 mm between the logs and screw them with screws. Insulation is laid between the bars.

Foam or mineral wool materials are better suited as insulation.

It is important to completely fill the space tightly with insulation. Sheets of foam plastic can be easily adjusted to any size of joists, as it is easy to cut with a knife. To protect mineral wool from excess moisture, it is necessary to insulate it using polyethylene or foil. IN empty seats they launch a special polyurethane foam.

The height of the insulation should be slightly below the floor level to ensure ventilation, which will protect the floor elements from rotting and getting wet. At the end, a polyethylene film is stretched over the insulation, fixed at the edges with metallized tape. Now the floor is being laid.

Insulation of veranda walls and ceilings

Option to insulate walls from the inside.

If the veranda is located inside the house, then you only need to insulate external walls, walls in contact with interior rooms no need to insulate.

Before insulating the walls from the inside, they must be covered with waterproof material. Polyethylene or foil is glued in horizontal stripes.

We insulate the veranda for winter living with our own hands

The resulting joints are covered with tape to avoid any air voids. In accordance with the dimensions of the insulation boards, bars are placed on the wall.

The space between the bars is filled with insulation in the form of mineral wool, and the foam is glued to the wall with a special glue. The easiest way to insulate is with polyurethane foam, liquid foam.

It has good protection from cold and a long service life, fills all voids well, forming smooth coating. Insulation boards must be wrapped in polyethylene foam. When using heat reflective material, it should be positioned metal surface inside. Having insulated the walls inside, you can close the structure finishing material, clapboard or something similar.

In order for the room to be truly warm, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling.

If warm air, going up, will not meet a good barrier, he will leave the room. When insulating the ceiling, the heat that comes in will be retained. The ceiling is insulated similarly to the walls. The insulation must be insulated from moisture, then wooden strips must be filled with which the insulation is secured. To fill the voids, special mounting foam is used, and to finish the ceiling, lining or other finishing material is used.

If the veranda mainly consists of window frames, then it is better to use triple frames, since a lot of heat is lost through the windows.

To provide fire safety Non-flammable materials, for example, mineral wool, should be used as insulation. For greater effect, you can also insulate external walls. This insulation can protect the walls from precipitation, thereby increasing their service life.

Thus, any homeowner can properly insulate a veranda with their own hands; the main thing is to prepare all the materials in advance and decide on the scope of work.

If you want to expand the usable area in country house and use it in winter time, it's time to find out how to insulate cold veranda. This procedure will also not be superfluous for creating a more favorable microclimate for the building in this room. Otherwise, it will freeze, become damp, and as a result become unusable. With a competent approach to the matter, it is better to insulate the verandah during the construction stage. But this is not always possible, either for economic or functional reasons.

Each structural element (floor, ceiling and walls) has its own insulation characteristics.

When is the best time to insulate a veranda?

It is worth immediately noting that having correctly solved the problem of how to insulate a veranda for winter accommodation, and by creating a kind of thermos out of it, you can significantly reduce heating costs.

This factor will also be relevant for baths. There are two fundamentally different options, how to insulate a cold veranda for living space: outside and inside. If possible, it is better to use the outdoor option.

It is better to hold the event in warm time years, since there are materials that can only be used at positive air temperatures. That is, when deciding what and how to insulate the veranda of a house from the outside, you need to focus on the season and weather.

If there are negative temperatures outside the windows, then it is worth considering the option of how to properly insulate the veranda from the inside. The event can be held during the construction stage of your country house. But you can solve the problem of how to insulate the veranda with your own hands already during your stay.

Overwhelming majority additional premises country houses are built from wood. Therefore, it is worth noting that there is no fundamental difference in how to insulate a veranda made of boards or a wooden veranda from the inside.

In approximately the same way, adjusted for building materials, warm rooms are arranged in buildings made of concrete, gas blocks, bricks, etc.

We insulate the veranda in stages

When insulating the veranda, you should adhere to the following order:

• roof;
• walls;
• ceiling;
• window;
• doors.

How to insulate a veranda roof

To solve the problem as correctly as possible, how to insulate a veranda in wooden house, first you should inspect the roof structure.

If it is a continuation of the main roof of the house, then there is no need to touch it. If this element is a simple ceiling, then it is necessary to solve the problem of how to insulate the roof of the veranda.

1. First, the structure is thoroughly sealed.
2. Next we lay thick layer insulation material.

   The best option for carrying out the work would be foil insulation. It will allow you to carry out the procedure quickly and with little effort.

3. Don't forget about the vapor barrier so that the roof doesn't get damp.

When insulating this element of the building, care should be taken to securely fasten the structure, since it is difficult to access.

Only after working on the roof can you move on to insulating the veranda as a whole.

How to insulate veranda walls?

To correctly solve the problem of how to insulate summer veranda, you need to start from the walls.

This is advisable, since these structural elements will require less effort from the master. When choosing a technology for how to insulate the walls of a veranda, it is better to focus on the frame method. Practice shows that the insulating structure is more reliable than when using the method of gluing the material. Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam can be used as insulation material. the main objective in the question of how to insulate the walls of the veranda from the inside or outside - this is to stop the access of cold to the room.

1. The frame method of insulation involves the use of timber, its thickness should be equal to the thickness of the insulation.

   Before insulating a veranda in a private house, it is better to treat the wood with impregnation to prevent the appearance of mold and fungi. A cellular structure is assembled from timber using self-tapping screws.

   Cell sizes should be equal in size slabs of material.

2. Now you can begin installing the insulation. The slabs are laid in cells against the frame, without cracks or gaps.
3. After installing the insulation material, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier over the structure with an overlap of 10 cm. It is secured using a stapler and staples. It is better to seal the joints with tape. A vapor barrier will protect the insulation from moisture.

   This is very important point in the question of how to properly insulate the veranda.

4. Then you can sheathe the structure with any finishing material: lining, plasterboard, MDF boards or PVC panels. Once the walls are ready, you can move on to working on the ceiling.

How to insulate a veranda ceiling?

Everyone knows that warm air rises and forms an air cushion near the ceiling.

But its presence does not prevent cold air from entering the room through cracks and gaps. Therefore, it is better to solve the problem of how to insulate the ceiling on the veranda along with other elements of the building. Many people think that these works are quite complicated, but this is not so.

The main thing is to initially choose the right technology: from the outside or from the inside.

The insulation material will also depend on the chosen method:

• Exterior works.

  If you decide to insulate the ceiling from the outside - along the floor of the attic, then it is better to choose frame technology and insulation in slabs, for example, polystyrene foam. Don’t forget to lay a vapor barrier on top of the structure. Attic insulation More often used during the construction of a house, but it can be implemented later.

  The advantage of insulating the ceiling from the outside is that it does not reduce the volume of internal space.

• Interior work. But with the task of how to insulate the ceiling on the veranda from the inside, using frame technology, difficulties arise. If the beams are attached to the surface with screws and do not interfere with the continuation of work, then the insulation in the slabs will simply fall out of the cells under the weight of its own weight. It is recommended to immediately secure it with a vapor barrier. Immediately upon completion of installation, the cladding material should be installed. You can also install an already installed insulation structure.

  The work will be fundamentally simplified if foil insulation is used to insulate the room. Now you can move on to insulating the lower structural element - the floor.

How to insulate the floor of a veranda?

Before you independently insulate a wooden floor on a veranda, it is worth opening up the floor covering and examining the structure to see if there are logs in it and whether they can be used.

If the answer is positive, the procedure can be carried out using insulation material in slabs.

1. Otherwise, you will have to lay the joists on top of the existing surface.
2. Then fill the cells with insulating material, similar to working with walls.
3. And complete the work by laying a vapor barrier.
4. After laying the thermal insulation structure, a solid base can be laid for flooring, for example, OSB boards.

   It is better to seal all seams with sealants.

If you want to make your task easier, you should ask yourself how to properly insulate a wooden veranda floor with foil insulation.

This is a technologically advanced material that allows you to work with structures of any geometric shape. Foil insulation can be used to insulate buildings made of any materials.

How to insulate windows

The main heat loss in any room occurs through doors and windows.

Therefore, when solving the problem of how to insulate a veranda with your own hands using polystyrene foam or other material, special attention should be paid to these openings:

• The best insulation option would be to install PVC windows. You can install single-glazed windows, but this will significantly reduce the temperature balance in the room. The larger the volume of glazing, the lower the heat saving indicators.

• Therefore, it is better not to save money, but to immediately install double or triple glazed windows.
• The tightness of the junction of these elements should be carefully monitored. Double-glazed windows are usually foamed, in in some cases You can put strip thermal insulation.
• But PVC glazing is a very expensive undertaking. If you want to save money, you can add a second one to the existing frame. This is what our ancestors did before the onset of winter. In this case, the cracks are filled with foam rubber or other soft material, and a special tape is glued on top.

How to insulate doors

In this case, the best option would be to install a modern front door.

How to insulate a veranda from the inside and outside during the winter? We insulate a cold veranda

It was originally designed to retain heat in the room:

• Companies that produce and install metal entrance doors usually have several models in their catalog intended for installation in a private home.
• If you want to avoid additional expenses, you need to insulate the structure yourself. For example, it can be covered with felt or an old stuffed blanket.
• It is better to cover the structure, both from the outside and from the inside.
• In order for the door to look aesthetically pleasing, a leather substitute, matting and other materials are mounted on top of the insulation.
• Self-adhesive rubber seals must be installed around the perimeter of the door.
• If you want to radically solve the problem of how to insulate a summer veranda, install a second internal one, this will create an additional air gap.
• After completing the work, you can begin finishing the room and continue to use it in the winter.

Let's summarize

The veranda requires constant maintenance, as does the house itself.

By insulating this room, you will not only expand usable space for use in the cold season, but also save yourself from regularly updating the finish and treating structural elements with protective impregnations. It is better to carry out insulation already at the construction stage. Take advantage of our unique offer and you will receive a functional and comfortable country home at a competitive price.

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The veranda in every home is a special place. It’s nice to spend time here in the summer, but in the cold season it’s difficult to call such a room comfortable. Therefore, every owner strives to solve the question: how to insulate the veranda for winter living in advance.

The best way to insulate a veranda: types of materials

There are many materials that allow you to efficiently insulate your veranda. But among large selection there are a few that have proven to be better than others.

Penofol

1. This insulation has a foil layer, which is additional protection from the cold in a wooden veranda.
2. Penofol can be used either independently or combined with other similar materials.
3. The insulation is environmentally friendly and does not emit toxic substances.
4. Easy to install and considered a fireproof product. It is great for insulating a veranda in a wooden house.
5. It reflects well cold air from the street.

Styrofoam

1. Polystyrene foam is perfect for insulating floors, walls, and ceilings.
2. Insulating a veranda with polystyrene foam is quite simple. Installation of panels can be done either by mechanical fasteners or using special glue.
3. Thanks to its structure, this insulation creates coolness in the room in summer, and keeps heat inside the veranda in winter.
4. This material is non-toxic and insects and fungi do not like it. Therefore, it is often laid under the floor screed or behind the drywall. As additional insulation verandas you can use penofol.

Expanded polystyrene

This product is similar in properties to polystyrene foam. It is very durable and easy to process. An excellent product for insulating a veranda.

Mineral wool

1. This insulation is considered “breathable”. It provides additional air exchange, thereby reducing humidity in the room.
2. Mineral wool is an environmentally friendly insulation material. It is absolutely harmless, odorless, and does not emit toxic substances.
3. Mineral wool is a fire-resistant material. It is especially good to use it for insulating the veranda if the building is wooden.
4. This insulation has proven itself well in the field of water resistance. It is able to repel moisture, which allows you to regulate the internal microclimate of the room.
5. Mineral wool is also an excellent sound insulator. It dampens noise in the veranda coming from the street, thereby providing additional comfort. This insulation is used to insulate walls, floors, ceilings, and ceilings. A wide product range allows you to choose the most best option. This product can both insulate a veranda and a wooden house as a whole.

Basalt wool

This insulation is in no way inferior to mineral wool. It also perfectly protects the house from cold and noise. Excellent resistance to chemical and biological influences. Insulating the veranda with this product has proven itself well in extreme frosts.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

Such insulation can be purchased in three types: rigid panels, flexible plates and inflatable. The advantage of this material is its low weight and ease of installation. But it does not tolerate mechanical stress well, and has a high price.

Flax, tow, moss

Such insulation is used when the veranda is wooden. It is difficult to install such materials. If you plan to insulate the veranda with this raw material, then it is better to do this during the construction of the veranda.

Synthetic insulation for construction

Artificial material has more durable characteristics than natural ones. This material is used to insulate the veranda from the inside and outside. It is successfully used to insulate walls, ceilings, and floors.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the veranda to the house

The veranda is almost always built on the same foundation as the house. As a rule, this is monolithic concrete or concrete slabs. In winter, about 20% of the heat escapes through it. Therefore, before insulating the veranda, you should insulate the foundation. It is not difficult to make such insulation. It is necessary to cover the surface (including the base) with polystyrene foam boards.

Don't buy cheap foam. It absorbs moisture, so in places of contact with the ground it can simply crack. To prevent this, it is necessary to make additional waterproofing with a film between the ground and the insulation.

1. Foundation wooden house dig up to the base and coat with bitumen-polymer mastic.
2. After this, a layer of polystyrene is placed on gravel bed and glued to the surface of the foundation with polyurethane glue.
3. You should also coat the joints between the plates with glue. This is necessary to prevent the penetration of moisture and cold.

Insulation of the floor on the veranda

Insulation of the veranda begins with thermal insulation of the floor. Mostly in such rooms a concrete base is made, this can be clearly seen in the video. If heating a wooden extension is planned using “warm floor” technology, it is better to choose electrical system. It can be turned on as needed. Water heating You should not place it on a wooden veranda, since low temperatures pipes may freeze and become deformed, resulting in a complete replacement of the system.

Insulating the floor in an unheated veranda

The floor of the house is closest to the ground and if it is not heated, a significant part of the cold enters the wooden room from below. Therefore, when deciding the question: how to insulate the veranda, this part should be insulated first. The procedure for insulating the floor on the veranda.

1. At the first stage of insulating the floor of the veranda, crushed stone is poured, sand on top and compacted well.
2. Next, they make a frame, lay down a mesh or reinforcing bars. This is necessary to ensure that the concrete does not burst later.
3. Then concrete is poured in a layer of five centimeters.
4. After the screed has hardened, the floor should be waterproofed. To do this, you need to lay sheets of roofing felt or film; the roofing felt is fastened together using bitumen mastic.
5. At the next stage of insulating the veranda floor, logs made of timber are installed. But before that, they should be soaked with an antiseptic. Insulation is laid between the beams.
6. After this, you can lay the boards on the floor.

Insulating the veranda from the inside

Isolation wooden room can be produced not only from the outside, but also from the inside. Insulating the veranda on both sides will help retain maximum heat in the room.

1. The technology for insulating a veranda from the inside begins with sealing all the cracks.
2. Next, you should make a frame from timber.
3. Then it is attached to the beam waterproofing film. It is more convenient and faster to install it from the inside using a stapler.
4. After this, a frame is made from metal profiles or timber and filled with foam plastic or similar insulation. It is better if the distance between the metal profiles is the same as the width of the insulation.
5. Drywall is mounted on top of the frame.
6. At the last stage of insulating the veranda, the walls from the inside are puttied, painted or a decorative coating is installed.

Insulation of veranda windows

A lot of heat leaves the room through the windows. To eliminate this problem and properly insulate the veranda, you need to carefully consider the junction of these parts of the building. First you need to change wooden windows to plastic ones.

PVC products protect heat in the house much better, and they are also excellent sound insulators. During installation, the joints between profiles and walls are foamed special means. To increase the effect, strip thermal insulation is used. But you shouldn’t save money and install single-glazed windows. Double or triple glazing will help insulate the veranda much better.

If, for some reason, there is no desire to change the windows, you need to insulate them by thoroughly examining the tightness of the wooden frames.

1. The first step is to check all the glazing beads. If they are loose or cracked, you need to remove the glass, clean the grooves and coat them with sealant. After this, the glass is put back, sealant is again applied along the edges and new wooden beads are installed.
2. Next, you should check the junction of the window opening and frame. To do this, use a regular metal ruler to go over all the joints. If there are places where it passes freely, it is necessary to putty them or seal them with polyurethane foam.

The door insulation is also carried out quite in a simple way. It is lined with felt (or other similar insulation) inside and out. Some decorative product made of film or other material that is not susceptible to weather elements, for example, leatherette, is attached to the top.

Along the perimeter wooden box need to put rubber seals. You should also check the connections door frame and opening. If there are holes or poorly adhering finishing material, the old one is removed, cleaned and plastered or filled with foam.

Insulation of the veranda roof

A lot of heat leaves the house through the roof of the extension. If the roof is pitched and does not have an attic, you will not be able to move freely on it. To insulate the veranda with your own hands, you will have to disassemble the entire roofing material. Therefore, it is better to insulate such a roof during the construction stage.

Ceiling insulation

In order for the insulation of the veranda to be truly effective, the ceiling should also be insulated. This kind of work is considered quite difficult. The main thing is to choose the right technology and insulation. You can insulate the ceiling in two ways: along the “floor” of the attic or by tipping the ceiling in the extension.

Attic ceiling insulation is usually done when constructing a veranda. But this can be done over time. This option is considered the best for the reason that the height of the room is not “sneaked” and installation is carried out much faster. Foam plastic or other insulation is simply placed in the rafter frame and covered with film.

The technology for insulating a veranda from the inside is somewhat more complicated. But such thermal insulation of the ceiling can be done using several methods. On our website you can watch the process of insulating the ceiling on video.

Method one

1. First, a frame is made for the ceiling from 30*30 millimeter timber.
2. Insulation of the same thickness is placed in the space between the beams.
3. Next, the ceiling is sheathed with thin plasterboard.
4. At the last stage of insulating the veranda with your own hands, the ceiling is either plastered and painted or covered with siding.

Method two

1. Old ceiling covering replaced with plywood or OSB.
2. Then the hydrobarrier film is attached.
3. Next, a frame is made from timber, into which foam plastic or other insulation is installed.
4. At the next stage, the timber structure is covered with film and lined with clapboard.

Method three

The most simple technology ceiling insulation – frameless. But only hard insulation is suitable for it. Foam plastic slabs are installed directly on the ceiling without additional structures. After this, the ceiling surface is covered with a special mesh and puttied.

Insulation of veranda walls

A lot of cold enters the veranda through the walls. Before insulating a cold veranda, you should think about insulating the walls. They can be used both from the inside and from the street.

External thermal insulation

If the walls are wooden:

1. First, you should seal all the cracks in the wooden veranda.
2. Next, a vertical frame is made of timber. The distance between the bars is about half a meter.
3. After this, insulation is inserted.
4. Then the waterproofing film is attached with a stapler.
5. On final stage covered with siding.

If the walls are block:

1. First they lay foam boards with special glue and reinforced with umbrella dowels.
2. Then the surface of the slabs should be coated with a special adhesive solution and a reinforcing mesh should be secured to them.
3. After the walls of the house have dried, they can be insulated with decorative plaster.

Insulating a house using the “warm seam” technology

A similar technology for insulating verandas is used for wooden structures. This method uses a tourniquet, tow, felt and sealant. Using this technology, a building can be insulated both from the inside and outside. Before work, the seam is cleaned of dirt, a tourniquet or tow is driven into it and sealed with sealant. Insulation of a veranda in a wooden house with technology " warm seam» allows you to significantly retain heat in the room.

Heating the veranda

The easiest way to solve the problem of heating and insulating a veranda during the cold season is a portable heater. To make full heating in the house you will need: project development, approval of the relevant authorities, complex work to carry out heating system etc. It is much easier to use something like the UFO and follow fire safety rules in a wooden veranda.

Insulating a veranda with your own hands: video

You can see how to properly insulate a veranda in this video.

If all insulation work will be executed technologically correctly and with high quality, the veranda will become a room that can be used all year round. Insulating a veranda requires time and material expenditure. But on the other hand, there will be additional living space where it will be pleasant to spend time not only in summer, but also in winter.

Verandas (terraces) of private houses and summer cottages are usually not heated, therefore they are used as living quarters only in summer, late spring and early autumn. In winter, they serve as a kind of vestibule, in which only skis and sleds can survive. Is it possible to turn a cold veranda into an additional room? Yes, you can. A properly insulated terrace will keep the house warm, the walls unheated room They will no longer freeze and become damp, and if you spend money on installing a heated floor or turn on the heater, you can fully use the “summer apartment” on frosty days. The choice of thermal insulation material and insulation method depends both on the solvency of the property owners and on the stage at which the work is carried out: during the reconstruction/expansion of the house or during construction from scratch. How to insulate a veranda for winter living will be discussed below.

How and where does heat go?

On cold days, heat can escape from the house in all directions: up, down and to the sides, that is, you should consider thermal insulation of the entire “envelope”: ceiling, walls, floor, windows and terrace doors. Many homeowners are mistaken in believing that heated air always moves upward. This is only one form of convection, in which warm currents primarily rise from the floor. In fact, they move in all directions. General rule: The greater the temperature difference, the greater the heat flow. Thus, the colder it is outside, the faster the heated air leaves the house.

An insulated terrace will “save” heat throughout the entire house

Is it possible to completely eliminate heat loss? Clearly not. But you can significantly reduce it by insulating the veranda according to all the rules. To do this, you need to know through which parts of the room the heated air “floats”. About 30–40 percent of heat loss typical house falls on the walls. The roof “takes” about 25 percent, windows and doors - approximately 20, and the floor - 10. A fairly large leakage of heated air occurs due to drafts, excessive ventilation and lack of tightness.

Review of thermal insulation materials

What properties do heat insulators have?

Thermal insulators are distinguished by structure: some resemble wool, others have tiny cavities - pockets filled with air, which has low thermal conductivity. The first include common mineral fibrous materials produced in rolls or in the form of dense “felt” slabs. The second are polymer-based insulation materials produced in the form of panels or foams.

Most wood-based products, such as MDF, plywood, and fiberboard, also have low thermal conductivity. That's why wooden doors, finishing MDF walls, covering the hatch to the attic with clapboard helps to retain heat.
Some sealants also “work” as heat insulators. They seal cracks and gaps. One of the cheapest sealants is papier-mâché; it can be easily made from paper and wallpaper glue.

Good insulating materials not only slow down the process of heat loss, but also have other important properties: fire resistance, indifference to chemicals, wear resistance, non-toxic, antimycotic (prevents the development of mold). However, another significant factor is cost, so when choosing thermal insulation materials are guided by the notorious price/quality ratio. We should not forget about the requirements set out in regulatory documents(GOST 16381-77, GOST 22950-95, GOST 31913-2011 and others).

What materials are used to insulate the veranda?

Most often, the following is used to insulate walls, ceilings, floors, windows and terrace doors:

1. Mineral (glass, stone, slag) wool – fibrous material, resistant to high temperature. Thermal conductivity depends on the density of the wool.
2. Expanded polystyrene (foam), including extruded polystyrene, is an inexpensive, fairly durable thermal insulator, the main disadvantage of which is its high fire hazard. When burned, it releases toxic substances. They produce modified self-extinguishing polystyrene foam with fire retardants (marked “C”). Fire-resistant boards are much denser and heavier than the types of polystyrene used for packaging. Extruded polystyrene foam is 50 percent more efficient (for the same thickness) than standard mineral wool products.
3. Penofol - foamed polyethylene, coated on one or both sides with a layer aluminum foil. Such “sandwiches” of metal foil and plastic insulator are used to reflect radiated heat.
4. Polyurethane foam in the form of panels or polyurethane foam(foamed polyurethane foam) - a material with low thermal conductivity (0.03–0.04 W/(m K) and high adhesion. Foam is formed by mixing chemicals. When hardened, it “locks” air in tiny pockets. Because foam can fill cracks and cracks, it is used to seal existing building structures, which helps eliminate drafts. Foamed adhesive tapes used for insulation of windows, doors, attic hatches.
5. Cork sheets made from cork oak bark are an environmentally friendly, but very expensive heat insulator.
6. Expanded clay is porous granules obtained by firing clay. Used as backfill for insulation of floors and ceilings.

Foil penofol reflects about 95 percent of thermal energy

Vacuum insulating panels - innovative technology in insulation

Relatively new material, successfully used in Europe and gradually conquering the domestic market - VIP vacuum insulating panels. They help out in cases where saving space is the main factor influencing the choice of material. The minimum thickness of the insulation allows you to maintain the height of the ceiling and eliminates the need to install a threshold between the terrace and adjacent room.

Thermal conductivity of the panels is 0.007W/(m K). In terms of thickness/degree of thermal insulation ratio, this is the best of all available materials for insulation. VIP systems typically consist of highly insulated vacuum panels and sealing strips of appropriate thickness. Such panels are usually installed along the outer edge. Manufacturers of vacuum panels supply kits with attached instructions demonstrating the optimal layout of panels and sealing tapes, which helps reduce the thickness of the insulation system to a minimum. The new heat insulator has one drawback - the material is expensive.

Ultra-thin VIP vacuum insulation panels are 20 times more effective than traditional insulation materials

How to insulate a veranda from the outside

Pros and cons of external insulation

1. All dirty work is carried out outdoors.
2. The veranda area is preserved.
3. The freezing point extends beyond the outer boundary of the walls.
4. The whole design resembles a thermos: it keeps the room warm in winter and cool in summer.

The disadvantages include the difficulty of performing reconstruction in bad weather.

To carry out work on insulating the veranda, no permits are required, therefore, having decided on thermal insulation materials, we begin the process. It is advisable to carry out thermal insulation of the room from the outside during the warm season.

Ceiling insulation

If the veranda and the house have a common roof and attic, then insulating the ceiling will not be difficult. Most convenient way– filling the frame cells with heat-insulating material.

Important! It is necessary to take care of vapor barrier.

What material should I use? Few a budget option: roofing felt is spread overlapping or the sheets are joined and glued, and a layer of expanded clay is poured on top or mineral wool slabs are laid. If possible, it is better to use foil-coated penofol, which retains heat well and does not allow moisture to pass through.

Ceiling insulation diagram from the attic side

Wall cladding with thermal insulation material

The easiest way is to line the walls with sandwich panels, which use mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam as insulation. The main advantage of such insulation is the combination of thermal insulation with external finishing, and you can choose almost any option for the outer layer: metal, PVC, and so on. When choosing decorative log or siding sandwich panels, the exterior of the house completely changes.

Thermal insulation with panels made of polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam or mineral wool is performed in two ways:

1. If you are insulating a veranda in a wooden house, then first lay sheathing on the walls. The pitch corresponds to the size of the panels used. Then the insulation is attached with special dowels (“umbrellas”), on top of which the waterproofing layer is fixed with a stapler. Insulated walls are covered with siding, plank, clapboard or any other finishing material - the choice is huge.
2. On brick or concrete walls The heat-insulating panels are fixed with mounting adhesive. Then a reinforcing mesh is attached, plastered and painted or a suitable facing material is used.

Insulation scheme brick wall outside

Insulation of windows and doors

Ideally, it is advisable to install a ready-made entrance door with the provided thermal insulation (for a private house). If it is not possible to replace the door, then you should insulate the old one. To do this, foam rubber (you can get by with a blanket) is fixed with a stapler or glue, then leatherette is attached with furniture nails. A seal is laid around the perimeter of the door.

Thermal insulation is provided in ready-made entrance doors for private houses

It's the same story with windows. It is optimal to replace old windows with double-glazed windows. If this option is not feasible for any reason, insulate the outside with conventional plastic film. To do this, slats are stuffed onto the frame, and the film is attached to them with a stapler.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the veranda from the inside

How to insulate a ceiling

If the roof structure does not allow external thermal insulation of the ceiling, you have to “take away” the height from the room and insulate it from the inside. A frame is mounted on the ceiling, taking into account that cross section timber must correspond to the thickness of the insulation boards. Using umbrella dowels, the heat insulator panels are fixed and a film is laid to protect against steam. The resulting “sandwich” is covered with plasterboard. If you don’t want to lower the ceiling height, then use vacuum insulating panels, which take up virtually no space.

Important! Be sure to insulate the hatch to the attic: seal the cracks, lay a seal around the perimeter, and sheath it.

Veranda ceiling insulation technology

Thermal insulation of walls

They begin work by removing the old coating and cleaning the walls from dust. When using mineral wool or expanded polystyrene, first prime the surface and lay a layer of waterproofing. Then the frame is mounted (it is more convenient to use metal profiles) and the thermal insulation panels are attached. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film. The final stage is installation of drywall, puttying and application of the finishing coat.

Changing the location of the dew point when insulating walls from the inside

Experts advise using ready-made heated electric floor modules to insulate walls from the inside and turning on the system on cold days/nights. This method of insulation is very expensive, but it guarantees a dry and warm wall.

Thermal insulation of windows and doors

Double glazing is considered effective way reducing heat loss, however, is relatively expensive. To save money, you can “preserve” the window for the winter in another way: attach a regular film to the frame using double-sided adhesive tape. Yes, it’s not entirely aesthetically pleasing, but it’s warm. It is advisable to seal all cracks with self-adhesive foam strips. You can do it the old fashioned way: with paste and paper, after caulking it with cotton wool or foam rubber. Thick curtains with thermal lining are an additional way to protect the veranda from heat loss through the windows.

Even when installed modern doors with thermal insulation from below it usually “pulls”. In Europe, it is customary to make a special roller and place it under the door. The British jokingly call him a dachshund. Making such a “dachshund” is simple: stuff the stocking with old socks or other rags and tie it (the length of the “sausage” should be equal to the width of the door). The top decorative “pillowcase” can be knitted or sewn.

Insulation of the floor on the veranda

Thermal insulation of the floor from the basement

If there is a basement under the veranda, then insulating the floor is easier - there is no need to dismantle the existing flooring.
Stages of work:

• fasten along the floor beams and the back side of the flooring with a stapler or mounting adhesive vapor barrier material;
• if the distance between the beams significantly exceeds the width of the insulation slabs, the side edges are “increased” with slats, bars or metal profile, leaving a step a couple of centimeters smaller than the size of the material (the mineral wool block should be tightly fixed in the cell);
• install thermal insulation panels;
• lay a layer of vapor barrier;
• installing a rough ceiling.

Wooden floor insulation scheme

Other floor insulation options

If there is no basement under the veranda, floor insulation work is moved indoors. If the owners of the house do not plan to start major renovation terraces, then tearing down the old flooring just to lay thermal insulation is not worth it, since the result will be too labor-intensive and costly a method of insulation. Typically, logs are installed on top of the existing covering, expanded clay is poured in, or insulating panels are laid and a new floor is laid. True, in this case the floor level rises higher and a threshold appears between the veranda and next room. How to avoid this? Vacuum insulating panels “soldered” into MDF can be used. They will raise the floor by only 30 mm. The second way is to dismantle part of the covering and insulate it with ecowool, but this will require special equipment, since the composition is supplied under pressure. Another option is to install a “warm floor” system. You can do with little: carefully seal the gaps between the floorboards, fit the baseboards well and lay a thick carpet on the floor.

Insulating the floor over the existing coating

Note! With any method of insulation, one must not forget about reliable waterproofing.

Video lesson: insulating the walls of the veranda from the outside

Insulation of the veranda, despite the abundance of thermal insulation materials and the apparent simplicity of their installation, is sufficient labor-intensive process. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to specialists from a construction company. They will make the necessary calculations and insulate the veranda according to all the rules.