How to add additional rooms to the house. Options for making extensions to a wooden house. Foundations for half-timbered buildings
Before you begin constructing a living room extension to an individual residential building, you must obtain permission from the department of architecture and urban planning of your city.
Find out more about how this is done to avoid mistakes when self-construction brick walls.
Insulating the roof from the inside is not very expensive and will save money on heating your home. Read about how to perform insulation and what materials to choose.
To do this, you will need to provide documents for land plot(lease agreement or certificate of ownership, cadastral passport), documents for the house (certificate of ownership, technical certificate), construction and architectural projects(in principle, there can be only one project, but it must contain sections that affect the construction and architectural part of the extension being built) and, of course, write a corresponding application for permission.
Foundation for extension
After receiving permission, we begin construction. Construction, of course, needs to begin with the construction of the foundation. To do this, along the perimeter of the future extension, we dig a ditch at least half a meter deep; the width of the ditch should be approximately the same.
We fill the bottom of the ditch with sand and gravel. This is necessary in order to increase the density of the connection between the foundation and the soil, as well as to reduce the risk of foundation subsidence.
Then we begin to pour the foundation. The solution for the future foundation is prepared based on climatic conditions your region, the characteristics of the soil, the size of the future room and the weight load it places on the foundation (all this should be reflected in the project). In addition, the foundation must be below the freezing level of the soil.
If the foundation is higher than this level, then the moisture accumulated in the soil will swell and expand when freezing, and thereby cause additional uneven loads on it. Such an impact on the foundation will lead to its deformation, as a result of which cracks of various sizes may appear on it and the walls of the future room.
After the foundation is poured, it should be watered abundantly. You need to start watering eight to ten hours after finishing work on its construction. This is necessary to avoid the appearance of cracks on it and its uneven drying. This procedure must be performed for three to four days in a row.
In order not to constantly run with a hose, the foundation can be evenly covered with wet sawdust. The foundation will dry completely after three to four weeks. But this does not mean that you can immediately start building walls. Let it sit for a year. During this time, the foundation will completely subside and “find” its place.
When pouring a foundation, it is better to give preference to the type of its construction that will be similar to the construction of the foundation under the main house. If the foundation under the main house protrudes beyond its boundaries from the outside, then the new foundation can be “linked” to it to add strength and avoid additional subsidence.
Walling
The walls of the room can be built from brick, cinder block, or from rounded logs, or other suitable building material. A block extension to the house is also a viable option, although not the best. Here everything will depend on your preferences and financial capabilities.
But better, from an aesthetic point of view, the material of the walls of the new extension should be similar to the material of the walls of the main house or combined with it (unless, of course, you are going to carry out external finishing walls of the entire house with modern finishing materials). An example would be a frame extension to wooden house, it’s easy to do and looks aesthetically pleasing.
Wall (ceiling) height new extension should be slightly lower than the height of the main building. It should be lower exactly as much as is required for arranging the roof.
When building the walls of a new room, you need to decide on their “connection” with the wall of the main house. In this case, experts do not recommend using a rigid connection. Since the weight and “age” of the main structure exceeds those of the new extension, which in turn affects their uneven subsidence. A rigid connection in this case will lead to the appearance of cracks. And not only at the junction. It is best to use an “elastic layer” in such cases.
The “elastic layer” is installed as follows. The wall of the extension should not be adjacent to the wall of the main building. Between them you need to leave a small distance of two to three centimeters. The remaining space is filled with a special sealant (Vilaterm or polyurethane foam) for expansion joints and gaps.
Making a roof
It was already mentioned above that the height of the extension should be slightly lower than the main house. So, when installing the roof of a new room, you need to ensure that the roof goes under eaves overhang home, forming a smooth transition. The connection between the two roofs should be such as to prevent as much as possible the entry of precipitation into the extension in the form of snow, rain or other moisture.
It is best to make the transition from galvanized steel at the junction of the roofs. iron corner. We place one part of such a corner thirty to forty centimeters under the roof of the main building and leave the same amount on the roof of the new extension. The resulting space between the roof and the edge metal corner carefully seal.
Beams for the roof of a new room can be made, for example, from wooden beams. We lay the beams themselves on pre-prepared grooves in the wall. To cover the roof of the extension, we choose a similar material for the roof of the main building. We definitely insulate the ceiling. Expanded clay can be used as insulation or mineral wool, or similar material. Self ceiling can be either wooden or reinforced concrete slab. The same goes for gender.
By the way, to level the floor, it is best to resort to a dry screed. In terms of its qualities, such a screed is no different from others. In addition, it requires less labor and financial costs.
The interior decoration of the new room will depend on its purpose and your design abilities. But before that, do not forget to first conduct new room all necessary engineering support networks, for example, electricity and heat supply.
And in the end I would like to say that everything construction works for the construction of an extension to a residential building must be carried out in strict accordance with the project submitted to the department of architecture and urban planning.
Any deviation from the project will entail certain legal consequences, up to the impossibility of legitimizing the house as a whole. If at the stage of construction of the extension you deviate from the project for any reason, then it is better to immediately inform the department of architecture and urban planning, get their approval and make appropriate changes to the project.
After the addition of a new living room has been erected and accepted by the commission for commissioning buildings and structures, you can safely go to the registration chamber and make appropriate changes to the title documents for the house.
Over time, owners of private country houses and cottages with year-round use are faced with the need to increase the usable area of their home. For example, one of the reasons may be the birth of a child or simply the desire for space, since the available area is too small. The frame extension in this case is seen as one of the best solutions. The features of the construction of such a structure and the procedure for its legalization will be discussed in this short article.
Features of the extension
The great advantage of a frame extension is the ability to pair it with a house built from any material, be it logs, bricks, blocks or bars.
Design features in general view are presented in the diagram below, however, they are almost completely identical to the nuances of building a full-fledged frame house.
How to make a frame extension to a brick or wooden house?
To build with your own hands, you will need some set of tools. The figure below shows standard version such a set.
It is also advisable to have at least one assistant, since some work cannot be done alone, and working with someone is always more fun.
Pairing with the main house
Regardless of the quality of the foundation, due to the difference in the magnitude of the load that the cottage and the extension exert on the ground, there is still a possibility that over time they will move relative to each other. For this reason, experts strongly do not recommend a rigid type of connection between an extension and an old house; it is more advisable to use a connection similar in principle to a tongue-and-groove connection. To install it on the wall of a permanent structure, you need to fix two beams, and between them install a vertical beam, which is an element extensions. This type of connection will ensure leveling of mutual movements. Of course, you can use a metal frame instead of wood, then all the embedded elements will also be metal. Or you need to use a bolt-on hinge.
However, the connection of the extension is not limited to just the walls; it is also important to connect the two roofs correctly. To do this, the rafters need to be connected at one end to the top trim of the frame, and at the other end they need to be fastened to the rafter system of the roof of the old house. The sheathing under the roof is mounted in such a way that the junction of the old and new roof is between the elements of the sheathing.
As a roofing material, you should only use one that has some degree of flexibility, e.g. soft tiles or corrugated sheeting with a wave height of no more than 10 mm. But slate or ceramic tiles are no longer suitable for these purposes.
Step-by-step instruction
1. Installation of the foundation
The first stage of construction is foundation work. Usually they arrange for an extension separate foundation, which needs to be connected to the base of the old house using special embedded fittings.
Of course, the most preferable option is the common foundation laid at the stage of construction of the first house, however, few of our compatriots look that far, which, however, in everyday life is quite understandable and understandable. When laying a new foundation, it is necessary to ensure maximum identity not only in shape, but also in the depth of both structures.
If it is impossible to achieve full solidity, then between the two foundations you need to leave the so-called expansion joint so that when the soil moves in the spring, cracks do not form on the walls of the extension and at the very foundation.
Strapping is the second stage of building an extension. The thickness of the walls of frame frames is usually 20 cm. They are rarely placed in extensions. living rooms, which allows you to reduce the thickness of the wall to 10 cm. Therefore, the diameter of the timber for piping and the cross-section of the vertical posts will also be 10 cm.
The figure below shows possible scheme installation bottom trim extensions:
When assembling the frame, the greatest attention should be paid to fastening the racks. The figure below explains its features.
The upper harness is fastened according to the same principle as the lower one. The side view is shown in the figure below.
5. Sheathing and insulation of the ceiling
The ceiling, like the walls inside, is best covered with clapboard. This is the most favorable option from a price and aesthetic point of view. Pine eurolining will last at least 30 years, and with proper care even more. To insulate the ceiling, in order to save money, you can use expanded clay, pouring it on top in a layer of 10–12 cm.
Possible variant installation rafter system shown in the figure below:
The process of attaching roofing material does not differ in any nuances, except for one thing: top part sheets should be placed under the roofing material of the main building. To do this, you may need to remove some of the fasteners. An approximate diagram of the roofing “pie” is shown in the figure below.
The ultimate goal of any construction work is to create a durable structure in which living will be comfortable and cozy. The quality of the wall “pie” has the most direct and decisive influence on achieving this goal. During wall insulation frame house or extensions, you need to remember that properly installed vapor and wind insulation is the key to long service without loss of performance characteristics of any type of insulation. If you forget about this, the insulation will very quickly absorb moisture from environment and will become worthless.
If we consider the layers of the wall “pie” from the inside of the frame extension, then they should go in this order:
1. Internal lining,
2. Air gap (10–20 mm),
3. Vapor barrier,
4. A layer of insulation,
5. Windproofing,
6. Exterior finishing.
Traditional roofing felt or glassine can be used as wind protection.
The second option is more preferable, since it does not deform when exposed to high temperature environment. When installing vapor barrier membrane materials, you need to place them smooth surface towards the thermal insulation layer, and the fleecy one towards the room. The fibers prevent condensation from forming on them, which prevents excessive wetting of the insulation.
Insulation of the extension is one of the most important factors comfortable stay there in the future. In fact, all the nuances concerning the insulation of a frame extension completely coincide with the insulation features of full-fledged houses built using frame technology. For insulation you can use the most different materials both traditional and more modern: ecowool, sawdust, basalt mineral slabs, extruded polystyrene foam and much more. In terms of speed and simplicity installation work
Still, perhaps, mineral slab insulation is optimal. Such insulation must be placed tightly between in several layers, but without kinks and pinches, which over time can lead to the formation of “cold bridges”. An important feature during the work is the need to shift the joints between the slabs relative to each other in adjacent layers. This principle must be observed not only when insulating walls, but also ceilings and floors.
Possible mistakes
Build and re-plan already existing structure It is always more difficult to build from scratch, so it is worth once again paying attention to possible errors in the process of constructing a frame extension.
The first and main thing is that many inexperienced builders rely on factory processing of all lumber. However, this is incorrect; before assembly, all frame elements must be thoroughly dried and treated with fire-retardant impregnations. Window frames and the doors must be installed strictly level and secured to already installed vertical posts, that is, the dimensions of all openings must be calculated at the planning stage.
How to legalize an extension to a house?
When all the construction work on the construction of the frame extension is completed, many of our compatriots begin to think about the need to legitimize the resulting masterpiece of architecture. However, it is better to think about this before starting work, since the process of legalizing an unauthorized structure is a little more complicated, you will have to go to court, and besides, the result may not be in favor of the plaintiff and then you will have to demolish all the resulting beauty, and at your own expense. Of course, you can avoid going through the circles of bureaucratic hell and leave everything as it is, but this will entail the impossibility of selling, renting, bequeathing or donating the entire house, and not just an extension.
When applying to the courts, you will need a whole set of various documents, among which the most important are the following:
- Certificate of ownership of the land plot;
- Certificate of ownership of a residential building (dacha);
- Certificate from the BTI;
- Permission from the housing and communal services organization;
- An extract from the house register about the number of registered citizens in the residential building;
- Frame extension plan;
- House project;
- Control shooting of the extension on a scale of 1:500;
- Consent of neighbors if the extension borders their site;
- Epidemiological service report.
In some cases, you may need a photo of the site, residential premises and an extension to it.
The preparation of a statement of claim must be taken with full responsibility, since the process may be lost due to errors made in it. Most courts will provide you with an application form and help you fill it out.
After filing a claim, you need to wait for a response, which should be sent by mail. To make sure that the application has been accepted, you can call back after 10 working days and clarify the information. It should be borne in mind that judges have only 2 legal reasons for rejecting a claim: the presence of a court decision regarding the legalization of a given building or an incorrectly drawn up claim document. In the second option, you must submit a second application.
Defendant during court session will become the municipality, and the owner of the house to which the extension has been made, accordingly, will be the plaintiff. If the court makes a decision in favor of the plaintiff, he will need to receive a payment receipt from Rosregistration for payment of the state duty and make the payment, after which the owner will be given all Required documents, legitimizing unauthorized construction.
As for other cash expenses, approximately 10,000 rubles will be spent on collecting all necessary information(consultations with lawyers, etc.), the price of the state duty is currently 500 rubles, 20,000 rubles costs an entry in the Urban Planning Cadastre, and about 60,000 more rubles will be required by specialists for a forensic construction and technical examination. Thus, in addition to direct construction costs, about 100,000 rubles will be needed for all bureaucratic delays.
Video
Watch a video about how construction work was carried out on a frame extension to the house.
When, for various reasons, there is a need to expand the living space of a private house, the most economical and technologically simple option is a frame extension. Its advantage is the speed of construction with your own hands with minimal skill in working with carpentry tools. Step-by-step instructions for the construction stages with photographs will help you make a useful and beautiful extension, like in the video, that will last for many years.
Purpose of the extension
To ensure that the extension does not subsequently have to be transformed, the design nuances should be considered even at the planning stage. To begin, decide about intended purpose new premises.
- Additional room. Building an additional room is equivalent to building a small house. All structures of a new building must be thoroughly insulated, otherwise heating such a room will be ineffective due to large heat loss. You should not skimp on waterproofing and insulating the foundation, otherwise dampness and mold on the walls will make it impossible to live in such a room.
- Kitchen or bathroom. Take care of the installation of utilities before you start building the foundation. Places where water mains or sewer pipes through the foundation it is necessary to insulate well. This is easier and cheaper to do during the construction phase.
- A veranda is a lightweight extension to an open or glazed house. Used for summer holidays. The building is not heated, so the design is extremely simple: the flooring, walls and roof are on supports. Do not forget about harmony; the veranda must be combined with the house in scale, style and materials of construction.
Selecting the base
The veranda can be attached or built-in. If the second is planned at the stage of building a house, then a separate foundation will need to be built for the first. With a gap from the wall of about 40 mm. Otherwise, when shrinking monolithic base will be destroyed due to different weights verandas and houses. The seismicity of the soil and the weight of the future building are taken into account. A lightweight foundation built on soil prone to heaving will “lead” and the extension will move away from the house. This base is designed for light walls, under the weight brickwork shrinkage is inevitable.
Different materials are used for construction: concrete, brick, stone, piles made of wood, metal or concrete. It is important to choose the right depth and type of foundation for the extension:
- tape;
- slab;
- columnar;
- pile;
- pile-grillage.
In private construction, when constructing a base for a veranda, columnar or strip structure. Let's take a closer look step by step instructions arrangement of foundations.
Strip foundation
For large and heavy buildings, a strip type of base is chosen. It is advisable to make it from concrete in this sequence.
Important. Before erecting walls, waterproofing must be applied to the foundation. Use roll materials or mastic.
Columnar foundation
For a light frame veranda, it is appropriate to construct a columnar base, which is made of brick, rubble stone or concrete. Or combine these materials. Holes for pillars are dug to a depth below freezing of the soil. The step between the pillars is about 60 cm. Sequence of work:
- dig square holes 50 x 50 cm. Sand is poured onto the bottom and compacted thoroughly;
- lay a layer concrete mortar, and after complete setting, they begin to erect brick supports. Use a level to ensure that the masonry is strictly vertical;
- a concrete support is made similarly to a strip foundation: it is wrapped inner part formwork waterproofed and inserted reinforced frame. The form is filled with concrete, and the top is leveled. Wet the concrete a couple of times a day to avoid cracking;
- after complete drying, the formwork is removed, waterproofing is applied to the pillar, and the top is covered with several layers of roofing material - the material will protect the wooden floor beam from getting wet;
- the remaining voids are filled backfill: soil mixed with crushed stone is filled in; compaction is carried out every 15 cm of the layer.
Important. The height of the foundation pillars is calculated so that the distance to the finished floor of the extension is 30 cm.
Floor: wood or concrete
A concrete or wooden floor is installed on a strip foundation. The base on pillars is obviously designed for arranging a wooden floor. Let's look at both technologies.
Construction of frame and walls
Wall structures are erected from timber, attached to previously assembled crown beams. The wall elements are assembled on a flat area in a horizontal position, and then the finished wall panel is mounted in a vertical position or each beam is connected to a beam in series. Step-by-step instruction:
- On lower bars make a cutout for vertical posts every 50 cm.
- Mount the racks, securing them with corners and self-tapping screws.
- Assemble the top harness.
- The veranda is connected to the house by attaching a vertical beam to the wall.
- Secure all posts adjacent to the house with anchor bolts.
- It is better to immediately sheathe the finished “skeleton” of the veranda on the outside with plywood, boards or OSB. This will give the structure rigidity.
- After erecting and insulating the roof, install windows and doors.
Ceiling and roofing
The shed type of roofing can be combined with almost any roof of the house, therefore it is the most common configuration. Let's consider it.
Insulation of walls and floors
Mineral wool is used as insulation material for walls. The mats are easily and quickly laid between the frame bars, as can be seen in the photo. When laying insulation in several layers, the mats are shifted relative to each other to prevent heat loss through the joining seams. The insulation is covered on both sides with steam and wind insulating material, which will protect the material from moisture accumulation, and the top is sheathed finishing material. Internal walls can be sheathed with chipboard, plasterboard and covered with wallpaper or lined with clapboard. For outer wall use wood, siding or materials that match the finish of the home.
Wall pie towards external wall looks like that:
- internal lining;
- vapor barrier;
- insulation material;
- windproofing;
- external cladding.
Floor on wooden joists insulated in the same way as walls: mineral wool is laid on the subfloor between the joists, having previously covered the boards waterproofing membrane. A second layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation and then leveled with plywood. After this, the finished floor covering is installed.
A concrete floor can be insulated similarly to a wooden one, apply a dry screed, make concrete screed and install water or electric heating.
DIYers often overlook the need to comply with safety regulations. Use the funds personal protection and well-oiled reliable tool and then you will have only the warmest memories from the construction of the extension.
Frame extension on stilts: video
Frame extension to the house: photo
Quite often it happens that the construction of a private house was carried out without the construction of outbuildings, but then the need for them arose. Modern projects houses often assume only the utilitarian function of the house - they will live there. What if the person will also lead some kind of economic activity- No. In addition, sometimes there is an urgent need to increase the living space of the house. Extension made of foam blocks, brick extension, wooden - the creation of these structures will help solve this issue once and for all.
Types of extensions
The type of building is determined depending on what exactly should be in it. This could be a room, a toilet, a garage, a kitchen, or anything. By the way, in middle lane In Russia you can often find a structure in the form of a greenhouse in which you can grow fruits and vegetables even in winter.
Diagram of the garage-extension After all, in this case, you can easily get everything you need from home. engineering Communication. Of course, the construction of a structure must be approved, even if we are talking about wooden terraces or simply adding a veranda to the house.
Creating a project and choosing the location of the extension
Projects and construction of such structures involve the following stages:
As for the choice of materials, it is better to be guided by the following rule: you need to create projects and build an extension from the same materials that the house itself consists of.
Construction of a frame house in section For example, if you need to attach terraces to a wooden house, then it would be better if it was wooden. Of course, this rule cannot always be observed.
Let's say a person wants to raise chickens, he needs a high-quality, windproof, warm brick extension. In this case, this option should be preferred, despite the fact that the house is wooden.
Options for the location of extensions to a standard wooden house Estimate calculation
Actually, drawing up the estimate itself is not so difficult, it is necessary to take into account the following:
An example of a veranda attached to a wooden house 
Construction estimates should be drawn up immediately after the projects are ready, regardless of whether terraces will be added or just wooden utility blocks. This will avoid unpleasant surprises in the future.
Construction of the foundation and connection of the foundation
In Russia, bathhouses are often attached to wooden houses. Even the construction of an ordinary terrace for a wooden house involves the creation of a new foundation for it. The option of lengthening the old foundation disappears immediately: it is impossible to do this, but connecting both foundations into a single whole later is not only possible, but also necessary.
For example, even for wooden terraces you will need to make exactly the same foundation as the main house. So, first you need to decide on the type of foundation itself.
General scheme frame house pediment devices Actually, there are 3 foundation options that can be used as a base for an extension:
- Monolithic;
- Columnar;
- Tape.
Columnar foundations are used extremely rarely in Russia, since they can only be installed on very hard soils such as mountains.
It can be used, for example, to build a gazebo, however, such buildings are usually not attached to the house, but placed next to it. By the way, for a gazebo, instead of a foundation, you can use old tires - this will be quite enough.
Layout diagram for an extension made of foam blocks A monolithic foundation will be the most durable, however, its installation is not always advisable.
Monolithic - the most solid foundation, as they say, “for centuries.” However, the cost of its construction, as you might guess, will amount to a tidy sum, and the labor costs will be very, very impressive. In general, it is better to choose a classic strip foundation, which is ideal for any extension to a wooden house.
Placement of communications
An example of a garage extension to a wooden house As noted above, placing any communications in the extension is as easy as shelling pears, because the room will be adjacent directly to the house itself. What does this mean?
For example, it is enough to just extend the existing water supply, sewerage or heating system- that’s it, no pits and grueling welding work. The same applies to gaskets electrical wiring, which probably even the most careless worker can implement with the help of a hammer drill.
It’s a different matter if we are talking about really complex engineering systems. Let’s say you need to install a branch from the main gas pipeline into the extension. Firstly, no one will let you do it yourself.
Construction of a veranda attached to the house Secondly, this will require, speaking without exaggeration, colossal expenditures. So it's worth thinking about. For example, in Kuban you can often find kitchen extensions to wooden houses.
And even if gas is installed in the house itself, there will still be gas in the extension. gas cylinder or the same electric stove(the oven is also a common option). Such nuances must be taken into account.
Communication with other premises
The question of how to make an extension to a house, even if we are talking about such a type of work as adding a veranda or another extension made of timber, should also involve solving the problem of communication between the attached structure and the rest of the house.
There are 2 solutions to this problem:
Covered terrace - great option extensions - An extension to a house made of timber can communicate with the house using doorway made in the main wall of the house;
- The entrance can be from the street (an extension to a house made of timber makes it easy to implement both options, but another material made of wood does not).
In the first case, the solution will be convenient, because, in fact, the living area of the entire house increases. But there is one extremely important nuance: the approval process in this case can last for many months, because changes must be made to many documents.
And the load-bearing wall of the house can be seriously damaged. If the owner of the house is ready for such a development of events, then, of course, it is better for him to prefer this option rather than any other.
Cutting an opening in a load-bearing wall must be done with extreme caution!
If Money If there is not enough and there is no desire to go through the bureaucratic circles of hell, then the option with an entrance from the courtyard will not be so bad. Moreover, in terms of cost it will be much cheaper.
Video
You can watch a video on how to do it frame extension to a wooden house.
A good extension to a wooden house can not only increase its usable area, but also emphasize style and originality.
Wooden houses continue to be popular even now. Wood can compete with the most modern building materials without being inferior to them.
We will build
Sometimes, over time, a house needs to be expanded. Some people do not have enough living space or, due to the addition to the family, they need another bedroom, children’s room or bathroom; others want an open summer veranda with a transparent roof, while others need access to the garage directly from the living room.
Everyone’s desires are different, but all of them can be equally easily realized. An extension to a room, veranda or garage is done in almost the same way - it is not difficult to build it with your own hands.
Despite the fact that the house itself is wooden, construction can be carried out with any material. Whatever material is chosen for the construction of the extension, the work begins with the project.
The project is needed to take into account all the nuances on paper and avoid mistakes in the work.
It is necessary to sketch a plan to scale and calculate the consumption of materials. You can make several options and then choose the best one.
When drawing up a project, you must comply with all building codes and regulations, since finished projects must be agreed upon by the BTI and the housing sector.
If it is impossible to draw up a project and draw a plan yourself, then you can turn to specialists for help.
Once the project has been drawn up and approved, construction can begin. Law on this moment does not prohibit starting construction even before the project is approved, however, if errors or violations are found in the project building codes, then the owner may be required to demolish the unauthorized building.
When adding non-permanent structures - open veranda, terraces - the project does not have to be coordinated, this only applies to capital structures.
Finally, the paperwork is done and the project is signed. The first step is to inspect the wall to which the building will adjoin and the adjacent part of the foundation.
If something needs to be strengthened or patched up, then this must be done before the main construction begins.
If you plan to add a full-fledged room, then the finishing and plaster from the wall must be removed.
In the case of adding a garage or terrace, this can also be done, but not necessary. When the extension is provided with an entrance from the house, it must also be cut through before construction begins.
This must be done correctly so as not to damage the strength of the wall or weaken it.
The basis of the future is, of course, the foundation. The quality and durability of the structure depends on it.
Laying the foundation for an extension occurs in the same way as laying the foundation for a separate building.
But there is one subtlety here: it is important to correctly connect the new foundation to the foundation of the old house.
Both parts must be one monolithic structure. If this cannot be achieved, then the difference in the foundation will cause cracks in the walls, and in a few years the extension may collapse.
Therefore, when starting construction, it is very important to pay due attention to the foundation connection.
To do this, you need to completely free the foundation from finishing and dig it to its full depth.
After this, it is necessary to drill holes in the foundation with a diameter of at least 10 centimeters and a depth of about half a meter.
These holes should be located at a distance of 40 - 50 centimeters from each other. In addition to these connecting holes, it is necessary to drill holes for the reinforcement.
The reinforcing wire inserted into them must be welded to the frame of the future foundation. Before pouring concrete, the foundation of an old house is thoroughly wetted with water - this will ensure best quality binding.
After the solution has dried and the fences have been removed, the new foundation will be tightly tied to the old one. On it you can create any desired extension with your own hands.
What material can the extension be made from?
Without a doubt, wood goes best with wood. But, despite the fact that the house is wooden, an extension to it can be made with your own hands from any material, and not just from wooden beam.
There is only one detail that needs to be given due attention when building with your own hands - the extension must have a permanent connection with the old house.
This single requirement can be met using any material. Some materials will be easier to work with, while others will be a little more difficult. Here you need to choose what will be more convenient to work with.
The following options may be considered:
- construction made of wooden beams;
- brickwork;
- frame extension;
- construction from foam blocks;
- aerated concrete and other materials.
Construction of verandas, terraces, summer kitchen It is easiest to carry out using a frame structure.
The frame extension is erected a little faster than other projects, but is practically not inferior in quality to them.
The extension frame itself can be assembled from either wood or metal. Reliable connection it with the old structure seems the simplest.
The frame beams are connected to the load-bearing wall of the house using bolts or long screws. Details between each other metal frame welded. If the frame is wooden, then it is fastened with self-tapping screws.
After assembling the frame, it is insulated with glass wool, foam plastic or penoplex. The insulation can be placed in several layers, as it must fill the entire area of the frame. The joints can be fastened using construction tape or other means.
After insulation, the frame building is sheathed with any selected material. Outside, it is good to use siding, lining or other finishing materials.
Typically, the same materials that were used in the main construction are used to finish the extension.
However, when building a veranda on a frame basis, the materials may be different to emphasize the individuality of the structure.
Inside, plasterboard, plywood or other options are used for cladding.
The roof of the veranda can be made of translucent polycarbonate roofing, but if the room is permanent, then the new roof should be connected to the old one.
The roof can be either gable or single-pitch, the main thing is that the connection is reliably sealed.
The roof is covered with metal tiles, slate or any other options roofing materials, except, perhaps, corrugated sheeting. Pretty corrugated sheet cold material, besides, practically does not isolate sounds.
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The connection of buildings made of wooden beams is made using a channel. The size of the channel must be selected based on the size of the timber used - so that it fits into the channel quite tightly.
First, the channels are secured to the walls of the house with bolts, and only then a new beam is attached to them.
You can use self-tapping screws for this. To protect against rust, metal channels are primed. The joints between timber and metal are sealed using polyurethane-based sealant.
Adding a veranda made of wooden beams with your own hands is a fairly reliable structure. If the insulation of timber walls is carried out correctly, the room can be used all year round.
A little about blocks and bricks
If construction is carried out from brick, foam blocks or aerated concrete, then the connection can be made with steel reinforcement. Metal rods must be cut into pieces of at least a meter in advance.
After laying out a row of blocks, the reinforcement is driven into the logs of the old house so that its free half falls strictly into the seam between the rows of material.
After the construction of the walls is completed, the gap between the old and new walls must be properly sealed.
A brick extension to a wooden house is strong and durable. Masonry load-bearing walls must be made of at least three bricks. In the case of adding a veranda, the walls can be laid with one and a half bricks.
Since brick is colder than wood, such an extension must be properly insulated.
To insulate an extension with your own hands, you can use the following materials:
- Styrofoam;
- polystyrene;
- glass wool
If the extension is made of foam blocks or aerated concrete, then additional insulation they don't need it.
Buildings made of aerated concrete, foam blocks and other blocks based on foamed concrete are themselves quite warm due to the air contained in the pores of the material.
A significant disadvantage of such blocks is that they all absorb water to a greater or lesser extent. Therefore, save on external waterproofing buildings made of foam blocks are not worth it.
Which blocks are best to make an extension from? If we compare between aerated concrete and foam blocks, then although they look similar, they have different qualities.
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Aerated concrete blocks are much stronger than foam blocks and practically do not shrink. A structure made of foam blocks can shrink up to three millimeters per meter.
However, the absorption capacity of aerated concrete is much higher than that of foam blocks, so due attention should be paid to their waterproofing.
On the other hand, a building made of foam blocks or any other concrete blocks also needs to be waterproofed, so the question remains open.
Everyone has the right to decide for themselves. Foam blocks are somewhat cheaper than aerated concrete blocks, which can play a decisive role in the choice of material.
