• Interior
• Window
• Walls
• Projects
• The buildings

Insulation of the internal wall of a wooden house. How to insulate a wooden house from the inside as effectively and durable as possible. Installation of the building envelope

12.06.2018

Wooden houses are usually insulated on the outside to protect the wood from moisture condensation and destruction. Sometimes thermal insulation is carried out on both sides, but in some situations it is necessary to focus on internal insulation alone. For example, if a mansion is a cultural heritage site, and according to the law, nothing can be changed in the design of the facade. The owner of a cottage made of rounded logs, for whom the authenticity of the house is the basis, can come to the same decision landscape design plot. In any case, using modern materials, you can insulate a wooden house from the inside without endangering the external walls. To do this you need to select suitable insulation and follow all installation rules.

Preparatory stage

Before you begin directly laying the insulation, preparation is necessary. It will allow you to avoid many troubles in the future: condensation, getting wet or freezing of walls, the formation of cold bridges, the appearance of pests and mold inside the tree and on its surface. In addition, two other important points need to be taken into account.

• Any wooden structure shrinks. Due to drying of wood, logs or beams can change geometry, fitting closer to each other, or, conversely, forming gaps. Therefore, it is worth carrying out insulation 2–3 years after the construction of the house. This will save the heat-insulating layer and interior decoration from deformation.
• You still need to decide how much usable space you are ready to lose by insulating your house - this affects the choice of materials. For example, if the rooms are not spacious enough, you should pay attention to insulation such as PENOPLEX. It allows you to achieve high level thermal protection with minimal wall thickening.

Rules for carrying out insulation work

If the house is ready for thermal insulation, it’s time to take care of the preparation directly for the installation itself. You will need the following tools and materials:

• insulation for sealing cracks in walls: tow, jute, sealant;
• for laying natural sealants - a set of chisels, for synthetic ones - a spatula;
• fire-retardant composition for wood processing;
• roller, wide brush or spray bottle for applying fire and bioprotection;
• hydro- and vapor barrier films;
• foil tape;
• construction stapler;
• wooden blocks and slats for installing sheathing;
• self-tapping screws;
• insulation calculated based on the area of ​​the walls with a small margin;
• tool for cutting material;
• level and plumb line, tape measure, screwdriver, screwdriver, hammer.

Types and types of insulating materials

For wall insulation wooden house are presented especially inside strict requirements. Among them: low thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, health safety and durability. These qualities will allow you to preserve and increase the advantages of a wooden house, and protect the people living in it from the vagaries of nature. When choosing a material, focus on the one that best meets your priority requirements. Sometimes decisive factor may be the price or ease of installation.

For internal insulation of wooden cottages they use the following types insulation:

• PENOPLEX (extruded polystyrene foam). It is manufactured in the form of slabs, convenient for installation. If ordinary polystyrene foam (foam) is short-lived, absorbs moisture, and can emit harmful substances and therefore not recommended for internal insulation, then PENOPLEX does not have these disadvantages. Its safety for health is officially confirmed by a hygienic certificate. It has the lowest thermal conductivity of all the materials described, does not absorb moisture, and mold and mildew do not form on it. Its other advantages include good soundproofing qualities and lightness. Extruded polystyrene foam boards are strong and durable - they will last more than 50 years. When using it, the internal volumes of the room do not decrease as noticeably as when laying other heat insulators, because the plaster can be applied directly to PENOPLEX. In addition, the material is ideal for vertical installation- its compressive strength is at least 15 tons per square meter! This means that the insulation will not be subject to deformation or shrinkage during prolonged use.
• Mineral wool. Copes well with thermal insulation and is good for soundproofing structures. But this material easily absorbs moisture, losing its heat-protective functions, and also has low strength. Cannot be applied directly to it finishing, you will have to close it with a strong smooth material, for example, drywall. Taking this into account, as well as the thickness of the mats, such insulation will significantly reduce the volume of the room. During installation, care should be taken to protect the skin, eyes and respiratory tract, as fine particles mineral wool is hazardous to health.
• Ecowool. This material is a loose, homogeneous mass, which is either blown into an insulating cake using pneumatic equipment, or diluted in a special paste and applied according to the principle of plaster. The insulation is made from shredded waste paper, so it absorbs moisture and needs to be protected from it. Has a higher thermal conductivity index than PENOPLEX. And over time it shrinks.
• Polyurethane foam. This is a spray-on thermal protection. Requires mandatory cladding, which increases the cost of insulation. The material itself is very expensive in Russia, 2-3 (two - three)!!! times more expensive than other types of insulation. Requires work in protective equipment. In addition, special equipment is required for application. A very expensive insulation option.

Preparing the surface for insulation

Work begins with preparing the surface of the walls. Wood is a comfortable natural environment for the development of microorganisms. Therefore, before thermal insulation, it must be treated with bioprotective compounds. Liquid bioprotection can be applied with a brush, roller or spray gun. After this, you need to wait until the applied composition dries completely.

IMPORTANT! As the house shrinks, gaps may appear between the logs, even if they were initially laid perfectly. In addition, the wood gradually dries out, causing cracks to form in it. To prevent heat from escaping through the seams and moisture from getting inside, you need to seal problem areas synthetic or natural sealant.

Natural fibrous materials, such as tow and jute, are laid into cracks and crevices, forming rollers from them. Using chisels, the fiber is driven into the hole. And the cracks are sealed using a method called “warm seam”.

• The protruding cushioning material laid between the logs or timber during the assembly of the log house is trimmed.
• A polymer seal is placed in the seam. It is available in the form of a tape (for small cracks) and a cord (for large gaps). Installation of sealant is required. In this case, the sealant applied on top of it will stick only to the logs or beams, without adhering to the filler itself. Thanks to this, the structure will be resistant to compression and stretching during further shrinkage of the wood.
• When all problem areas are filled, using mounting gun apply synthetic sealant. Use a spatula to smooth out the seam and remove excess sealing gel.

Ventilation and vapor barrier

Having closed all the cracks in external wall, it is possible to avoid heat loss. But a new problem appears: the air stops circulating, and the moisture has nowhere to go. To prevent it from accumulating and destroying the tree, you need to take care of two things: ventilation and vapor barrier.

The first of them is worth thinking about even at the stage of building a house. The best option- forced ventilation using supply and exhaust systems. If the budget does not provide for them, it is advisable to equip windows and doors with special slotted valves. Ventilation will save the room from the “greenhouse” effect, when high humidity accumulates in it during the cold season.

Protection of insulation from moisture is achieved in another way - using a vapor barrier film. It is mounted indoors on top of the already glued heat insulator. Fixing it with a construction stapler, the vapor barrier is placed tightly, and at the joints it is laid with an overlap of 15 cm and then taped.

Note! Laying a vapor barrier is mandatory if hygroscopic materials are used as insulation: mineral wool, ecowool. When using PENOPLEX, this step can be skipped, since extruded polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself technology for insulating wooden walls inside a house

For different materials she is different. In this article we will look at the installation procedure for PENOPLEX. Laying can begin after the surface has been prepared and dried.

• Leaf or slab material It is more convenient to start mounting from below. And PENOPLEX is no exception. We fix horizontal bar as a beacon and begin work.
• On each slab we apply special adhesive PENOPLEX® FASTFIX® in strips - it does not change the properties of the insulation, which is important. This material is sensitive to certain substances in other adhesives.
• Then we attach the sheets to the wall in a checkerboard pattern.
• For greater reliability, we fix each of them with dowels in the corners.
• The joints can be filled with PENOPLEX® FASTFIX® adhesive foam. But since they have L-shaped grooves that fit tightly into each other, this point is not mandatory.

So, let's summarize. To obtain high-quality thermal insulation by spraying polyurethane foam or blowing in ecowool, it is worth hiring specialists. Firstly, you will need professional equipment, secondly, it is difficult to calculate the density of the layer yourself, and make installation without gaps.

PENOPLEX, on the contrary, will not require the costs of attracting outside forces. No specific skills or tools are required to carry out the work. It is only important to follow all the recommendations and, of course, purchase original material from the manufacturer.

Just a few decades ago, insulating the walls from the inside of a wooden house was not required: to keep the room warm, it was enough to increase the thickness of the walls. But using more material to build a thick wall leads to increased financial costs, so owners think about how to properly and whether it is even possible to insulate the house from the inside. Yes you can, modern construction market offers many different thermal insulation materials for internal insulation wooden houses.

What you need to know about wall insulation

Wood is a material with high thermal insulation properties, but when the thickness of the walls decreases, the need for insulation arises. It is not possible to carry out external insulation, as this will deteriorate appearance wooden building. Additional heat losses occur due to poor-quality joining of logs, under the influence of natural shrinkage of the house. Therefore, insulating a wooden house from the inside is an urgent problem, which modern thermal insulation materials help solve.

Before you start choosing insulation and conducting thermal insulation works, you need to figure out two details:

It is best to plan home insulation work for spring or summer. A newly built house is not insulated - you need to wait a year for the building to shrink. Otherwise, the work will be useless: after shrinkage, cracks and gaps between the logs will appear again, and additional work will have to be carried out.

Choice of insulation

Not only the warmth in the house, but also the health of the residents depends on the quality of the insulation.. The following requirements apply to materials used to insulate the walls of a wooden house:

• Low thermal conductivity.
• Fire safety.
• Mechanical strength.
• Ecological cleanliness, safety for human health.

Many modern materials have been created that have excellent thermal insulation properties. The following types of insulation are used:

Proper organization of work and a thoughtful approach are the lion's share of success in this difficult task. Next, the main steps in insulating a room will be described. Preparatory stage

Before starting thermal insulation work it is necessary to prepare the walls. The first operation is checking and sealing the joints. For this purpose, synthetic sealants, jute fiber, and tow are used. Preparing walls for the application of polyurethane foam includes cleaning the surface from dirt, old paint, greasy stains. After filling the joints, the next stage begins - treating the wood with fire-retardant compounds.

Treatment with compounds that prevent fire and infection mold fungi very important, because the wood after thermal insulation will be hidden from free access for many years; The condition and service life of a wooden building depend on the quality of processing. Fire-retardant compounds are used to treat not only wooden walls, but also enclosing structures, even if they are made of other materials.

Ventilation device

When carrying out thermal insulation work you need to remember about ventilation: without it it is impossible to achieve the correct microclimate in the room. Some insulation materials have low air conductivity, which negatively affects indoor air quality. To ensure air circulates properly, arrange ventilation gaps- leave a small gap between the wall and the thermal insulation material. In this gap, free air circulation occurs, thereby maintaining normal humidity of the insulation and walls.

Materials such as basalt wool, pressless polystyrene, glass wool require additional device vapor barriers. To do this, use a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the ventilation sheathing.

All thermal insulation materials require construction of enclosing structures- without them it is impossible to fix the insulation to the wall. To do this, use wooden blocks, which are installed at a distance from each other equal to the width of the insulation. In order for the material to fit more tightly to the fence, the distance between the bars is made smaller the right size by 1 cm. After laying the insulation between the fencing bars, it is additionally secured with cords or dowels.

After installation on the wall, insulation with high porosity requires additional waterproofing. For this they use waterproofing films with vapor-permeable membranes, thanks to which the humidity of the insulation will always be equal to the humidity of the air in the room. Drywall is used as a finishing coating for thermal insulation, wooden lining, plywood.

The technology for insulating a wooden house from the inside is not complicated and does not require professional skills from the owners. You can carry out thermal insulation of walls yourself, you just need study the technology of work and purchase quality materials.

Insulation of walls in wooden house Of course, it needs to be done from the inside. After all, penetrating moisture contributes to the destruction of wood and not only does the structure become unusable, but as a result of this the room will be damp.

Today we will look at how to insulate walls in a wooden house from the inside. Also in the video in this article and photos you can see the entire process of completing the work clearly.

Preparation for main types of work

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside is done according to certain rules and in compliance with the required sequence. The quality of the work performed will depend on this.

Before starting work, it is necessary to take measurements and calculate the material. And also, it is necessary to make calculations for further choice insulating material, taking into account, among other things, its properties (see Material for insulating walls inside: characteristics). Do not forget that in such work, membranes are used (vapor insulating and waterproofing).

When calculating, it is established:

• Dew point output. This is one of the most important points in this type of work. Everything is explained very simply - how humid the room will ultimately be depends directly on this, even in cases of high-quality material and well-done work. Both the location of the membranes and their properties are taken into account (in different manufacturers they may differ), and of course the properties of the insulation (density, resistance to getting wet).
• Calculation of the total area of ​​the room, taking into account that it will decrease. It may not be a comparison (increase in slopes, and if there is a stove, the safe distance between the wall and the stove will change, which is unacceptable for fire safety).

Important: The need for work to establish the dew point is not discussed. This is an inseparable part that ultimately provides the meaning of the whole work. You need to understand that the humidity of the room depends on the location of the dew point, and humidity means rotting, smell, and, ultimately, premature disrepair.

Rules for performing insulation work

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house is done if there is quality materials. Preference should be given to trusted brands; you can save a little on Chinese material, but you will lose significantly in performance.

What you will need to carry out the work

Insulation wooden walls The inside is made with insulation, there are quite a lot of them. But you have to start from the structure itself and what you want to get in the end.

By definition, the insulation must meet the requirements:

1. Have low thermal conductivity;
2. Meet fire safety requirements;
3. Comply with environmental and chemical safety standards.

Attention: When choosing insulation, the density and heat transfer qualities are determined, taking into account the place of its application, weather and temperature conditions, as well as the condition of the building itself.

• The material used must not support combustion, release hazardous compounds into the air, or contain hazardous chemical elements. For interior work, the material is selected with special care, environmentally friendly and safe. This is important because - in a confined space, with constant contact, even a seemingly insignificant deviation from the norm can turn out to be dangerous, both for people and pets.

Types and types of insulating materials

When deciding which method to use, you first need to decide what material will be used. This is interconnected, since the method and method directly depend on the type of material.

From possible ways, used indoors – use:

Now let's figure out how to insulate wooden walls from the inside with practical point vision.

Sealing cracks, preparing the surface for insulation

From the moment the building is built, during its operation, the wood dries out, the house “shrinks,” and there is a constant movement of materials. As a result, cracks and cracks form that need to be sealed to stop heat loss.

• The joints between the logs (or beams) are caulked. This is done available material, or the same as what was done before (tow, jute, sealant). As a result, heat loss must be stopped.

12.06.2018

Wooden houses are usually insulated on the outside to protect the wood from moisture condensation and destruction. Sometimes thermal insulation is carried out on both sides, but in some situations it is necessary to focus on internal insulation alone. For example, if a mansion is a cultural heritage site, and according to the law, nothing can be changed in the design of the facade. The owner of a rounded log cottage can come to the same decision, for whom the authenticity of the house is the basis of the landscape design of the site. In any case, using modern materials, you can insulate a wooden house from the inside without endangering the external walls. To do this, you need to select the appropriate insulation and follow all installation rules.

Preparatory stage

Before you begin directly laying the insulation, preparation is necessary. It will allow you to avoid many troubles in the future: condensation, getting wet or freezing of walls, the formation of cold bridges, the appearance of pests and mold inside the tree and on its surface. In addition, two other important points need to be taken into account.

• Any wooden structure shrinks. Due to drying of wood, logs or beams can change geometry, fitting closer to each other, or, conversely, forming gaps. Therefore, it is worth carrying out insulation 2–3 years after the construction of the house. This will save the heat-insulating layer and interior finishing from deformation.
• You also need to decide how much usable space you are willing to lose by insulating your house - this affects the choice of materials. For example, if the rooms are not spacious enough, you should pay attention to insulation such as PENOPLEX. It allows you to achieve a high level of thermal protection with minimal wall thickening.

Rules for carrying out insulation work

If the house is ready for thermal insulation, it’s time to take care of the preparation directly for the installation itself. You will need the following tools and materials:

• insulation for sealing cracks in walls: tow, jute, sealant;
• for laying natural sealants - a set of chisels, for synthetic ones - a spatula;
• fire-retardant composition for wood processing;
• roller, wide brush or spray bottle for applying fire and bioprotection;
• hydro- and vapor barrier films;
• foil tape;
• construction stapler;
• wooden blocks and slats for installing sheathing;
• self-tapping screws;
• insulation calculated based on the area of ​​the walls with a small margin;
• tool for cutting material;
• level and plumb line, tape measure, screwdriver, screwdriver, hammer.

Types and types of insulating materials

Particularly stringent requirements are imposed on the insulation for the walls of a wooden house inside. Among them: low thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, health safety and durability. These qualities will allow you to preserve and increase the advantages of a wooden house, and protect the people living in it from the vagaries of nature. When choosing a material, focus on the one that best meets your priority requirements. Sometimes the deciding factor can be price or ease of installation.

For internal insulation of wooden cottages, the following types of insulation are used:

• PENOPLEX (extruded polystyrene foam). It is manufactured in the form of slabs, convenient for installation. If ordinary polystyrene foam (foam) is short-lived, absorbs moisture, can emit harmful substances and therefore is not recommended for internal insulation, then PENOPLEX does not have these disadvantages. Its safety for health is officially confirmed by a hygienic certificate. It has the lowest thermal conductivity of all the materials described, does not absorb moisture, and mold and mildew do not form on it. Its other advantages include good soundproofing qualities and lightness. Extruded polystyrene foam boards are strong and durable - they will last more than 50 years. When using it, the internal volumes of the room do not decrease as noticeably as when laying other heat insulators, because the plaster can be applied directly to PENOPLEX. In addition, the material is ideal for vertical installation - its compressive strength is at least 15 tons per square meter! This means that the insulation will not be subject to deformation or shrinkage during prolonged use.
• Mineral wool. Copes well with thermal insulation and is good for soundproofing structures. But this material easily absorbs moisture, losing its heat-protective functions, and also has low strength. You cannot apply finishing directly to it; you will have to cover it with a durable, even material, for example, plasterboard. Taking this into account, as well as the thickness of the mats, such insulation will significantly reduce the volume of the room. During installation, attention should be paid to protecting the skin, eyes and respiratory tract, since small particles of mineral wool are hazardous to health.
• Ecowool. This material is a loose, homogeneous mass, which is either blown into an insulating cake using pneumatic equipment, or diluted in a special paste and applied according to the principle of plaster. The insulation is made from shredded waste paper, so it absorbs moisture and needs to be protected from it. Has a higher thermal conductivity index than PENOPLEX. And over time it shrinks.
• Polyurethane foam. This is a spray-on thermal protection. Requires mandatory cladding, which increases the cost of insulation. The material itself is very expensive in Russia, 2-3 (two - three)!!! times more expensive than other types of insulation. Requires working in protective equipment. In addition, special equipment is required for application. A very expensive insulation option.

Preparing the surface for insulation

Work begins with preparing the surface of the walls. Wood is a comfortable natural environment for the development of microorganisms. Therefore, before thermal insulation, it must be treated with bioprotective compounds. Liquid bioprotection can be applied with a brush, roller or spray gun. After this, you need to wait until the applied composition dries completely.

IMPORTANT! As the house shrinks, gaps may appear between the logs, even if they were initially laid perfectly. In addition, the wood gradually dries out, causing cracks to form in it. To prevent heat from escaping through the seams and moisture from getting inside, you need to seal problem areas with synthetic or natural sealant.

Natural fibrous materials such as tow and jute are placed into cracks and crevices to form rolls. Using chisels, the fiber is driven into the hole. And the cracks are sealed using a method called “warm seam”.

• The protruding cushioning material laid between the logs or timber during the assembly of the log house is trimmed.
• A polymer seal is placed in the seam. It is available in the form of a tape (for small cracks) and a cord (for large gaps). Installation of sealant is required. In this case, the sealant applied on top of it will stick only to the logs or beams, without adhering to the filler itself. Thanks to this, the structure will be resistant to compression and stretching during further shrinkage of the wood.
• When all problem areas are filled, synthetic sealant is applied using a mounting gun. Use a spatula to smooth out the seam and remove excess sealing gel.

Ventilation and vapor barrier

By closing all the cracks in the external wall, heat loss can be avoided. But a new problem appears: the air stops circulating, and the moisture has nowhere to go. To prevent it from accumulating and destroying the tree, you need to take care of two things: ventilation and vapor barrier.

The first of them is worth thinking about even at the stage of building a house. The best option is forced ventilation using supply and exhaust systems. If the budget does not provide for them, it is advisable to equip windows and doors with special slotted valves. Ventilation will save the room from the “greenhouse” effect, when high humidity accumulates in it during the cold season.

Protection of insulation from moisture is achieved in another way - using a vapor barrier film. It is mounted indoors on top of the already glued heat insulator. Fixing it with a construction stapler, the vapor barrier is placed tightly, and at the joints it is laid with an overlap of 15 cm and then taped.

Note! Laying a vapor barrier is mandatory if hygroscopic materials are used as insulation: mineral wool, ecowool. When using PENOPLEX, this step can be skipped, since extruded polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself technology for insulating wooden walls inside a house

It differs for different materials. In this article we will look at the installation procedure for PENOPLEX. Laying can begin after the surface has been prepared and dried.

• It is more convenient to start installing sheet or slab material from below. And PENOPLEX is no exception. We fix the horizontal bar as a beacon and begin work.
• On each slab we apply special adhesive PENOPLEX® FASTFIX® in strips - it does not change the properties of the insulation, which is important. This material is sensitive to certain substances in other adhesives.
• Then we attach the sheets to the wall in a checkerboard pattern.
• For greater reliability, we fix each of them with dowels in the corners.
• The joints can be filled with PENOPLEX® FASTFIX® adhesive foam. But since they have L-shaped grooves that fit tightly into each other, this point is not mandatory.

So, let's summarize. To obtain high-quality thermal insulation by spraying polyurethane foam or blowing in ecowool, it is worth hiring specialists. Firstly, you will need professional equipment, and secondly, you have to calculate the density of the layer yourself, and it is difficult to install without gaps.

PENOPLEX, on the contrary, will not require the costs of attracting outside forces. No specific skills or tools are required to carry out the work. It is only important to follow all the recommendations and, of course, purchase original material from the manufacturer.

An important stage in construction modern houses is their thermal insulation. The main goals of insulation are to create comfortable temperature indoors and more economical consumption of energy resources used for heating.

Both wood and stone buildings need thermal insulation.

According to building regulations, thermal insulation should be done from the outside. The reason is that the dew point is located at outside rooms in insulating material or in the front layer of load-bearing structures. With this method of thermal insulation, condensation will not form on the walls of rooms.

But this insulation option is not the only one. Thermal insulation is carried out not only from the outside, but also from the inside. In some situations internal insulation– this is the only correct option. For example, if the owner of a home wants to maintain the external presentability that distinguishes wooden buildings, or the architectural appearance of the house has historical value.

We suggest you learn how to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands. different types thermal insulation materials.

Causes of heat loss in a wooden house

As a rule, wooden houses are very comfortable. It is cool in such buildings warm time year and warm in winter.

A decrease in temperature inside a wooden house is caused by two main factors:

• improper vapor barrier;
• cracks that appeared in an old building due to the drying out of wood over time.

Is it possible to insulate a wooden house from the inside? Of course, and if the house is old, it’s even necessary! In order to perform thermal insulation from the inside, it is necessary to choose the right materials and follow the technology provided for such a task.

Insulation work on both new and old wooden houses is carried out in stages.

How and with what to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside with your own hands? Let's consider the stages of internal wall insulation and select environmentally friendly insulation for internal thermal insulation.

Preparation

All actions related to the construction and improvement of residential buildings must be preceded by calculations - this rule also applies to the insulation of a wooden building.
Calculations make it possible to find out the degree of thermal insulation efficiency and find out whether it is, in principle, possible to carry out insulation from the inside.

Insulating material always fulfills its purpose, but the location of the dew point plays a decisive role. Under no circumstances should it be placed on the inside of load-bearing structures, especially in insulating material, and the task of the calculations is to demonstrate this.

When placing the dew point from the inside the room will be quite comfortable temperature regime, but in winter there is always dampness, leading to soaking of thermal insulation materials, rotting of wood, and the formation of mold.

Provided that the dew point does not end up in the inside of the room even in winter, thermal insulation can be done from the inside.

But at the same time it will inevitably be necessary to sacrifice inner space residential premises.

Selecting materials

There are a number of requirements for materials used for internal thermal insulation of wooden houses:

• low heat conductivity;
• fire resistance;
• strength;
• environmental Safety.

Thermal insulation methods are selected based on the materials used for this purpose.

How to insulate a house from the inside? Currently, several types of insulation for house walls are produced:

Modern insulation materials have big amount advantages: lightness, flexibility, excellent thermal insulation parameters.

Seal the joints

Having decided to take on the task of insulating a wooden house with your own hands, you need to take into account one important point. A wooden structure shrinks, a process that takes several months. In addition to shrinkage, when brought into operating mode heating system Wood in the rooms begins to dry out at high speed. This is reflected in the configuration of logs and beams.

Initially densely spaced wooden elements at junction points they can form large gaps, releasing heat into the street.

For this reason, the first step in thermal insulation of a wooden household should be sealing the seams.

For this purpose, sealants and other materials are used. It is convenient to seal the cracks with a wide chisel.

If the gaps are large, use rolled tow.

At this stage the main thing is to stop the exit warm air through the cracks.