Do-it-yourself MDF wall panels installation: options for installing MDF wall panels with glue and frame. Installing plastic or PVC panels - step-by-step method How to connect a PVC corner panel
It is not for nothing that polyvinyl chloride has gained such wide popularity in construction industry. A wide variety of materials are made from it, which are used in construction and decoration. Installation of PVC panels on walls and especially ceilings is a fairly common occurrence, and today every team of builders offers similar services. However, due to the simplicity of the device and installation, it is quite possible to produce self-installation PVC plates.
Where to begin?
The first thing that sometimes receives insufficient attention is measurements and planning. It is not enough to measure the length and width of the ceiling and simply buy the required number of panels; all aspects of preliminary preparation must be taken into account. If the surface is perfectly flat, then simple gluing of slabs on the ceiling or walls will be enough for unpretentious tastes. In the case where the plans include giving the room not only aesthetic appeal, but also practicality, it is worth thinking about installing a full-fledged frame in which it is possible to hide various kinds communications, for example, the same lighting.
Of course, it is difficult to imagine a job in which there is no need to use a tool. In this case, you will need the following:
- a hammer drill or drill with a hammer function to the delight of all neighbors during installation work,
- stepladder (for working in apartments with a standard ceiling height of 2.5 meters optimal choice there will be an inexpensive aluminum stepladder 1.8 meters high),
- hacksaws for wood and metal (a hacksaw for metal is best suited for cutting PVC panels, allowing you to make the edges of the cut as smooth as possible),
- tape measure and building level,
- a painter's knife or shoemaker's knife (a well-sharpened piece of steel will also work; the blade should be tilted at 60 degrees, optimal width blades - 10 centimeters),
- hammer,
- self-tapping screws or wallpaper nails with which PVC panels are fastened to the frame.
Finishing with PVC panels requires the mandatory use of the specified tools for work, since without them it is impossible to accurately perform the installation (the only exception is a hammer drill, which is needed to quickly level the problem surface). After selecting the tool, you should proceed to the first stage of work, marking.
Preliminary preparation and measurements
First, the markings are applied to the entire work surface. Since PVC ceiling slabs have standard lamella sizes, it all depends on preference. The most popular solution is “lining” - long strips that are 10 cm wide. It is necessary to draw lines to install the profile every 400 millimeters. The first mark is made along the width of the PVC panel, starting from the lowest point on the ceiling. After this, using building level Marks are drawn along the perimeter of the surface for attaching anchors or dowels, depending on preference, with the help of which the frame will be mounted to the surface of the wall or ceiling.
Please note that the profiles of the main supporting frame are always attached perpendicular to the location of the PVC plates. Experts recommend using not only a system of marks and a level for marking, but also an ordinary thin rope for quick marking. How to make it? Simple enough. You should simply “color” the rope with colored chalk and press its ends to the surface - in this case, the marks made with chalk will remain on the wall. This method will significantly speed up the marking process, which will save time spent on preliminary work. Finishing any surface with PVC panels, be it a wall or a ceiling, begins with assembling the frame.
Frame assembly
Initially, the frame consists of profile connections made from different materials. The following types of frames are distinguished:
- wooden frame,
- plastic sheathing,
- metal profiles,
Each variety has its own advantages and is used depending on preference.
A wooden frame is built infrequently, since such a design has more disadvantages than practical advantages. Wood is afraid of moisture and freezing, as well as drying out due to heat, for this reason the question of the need to install a wooden frame, especially in those rooms in which the influence of climate is noticeably felt (balcony or loggia, for example) is quite controversial.
If there are no contraindications, wooden beams They are attached to the covering every 60 centimeters using dowels or impact screws; to level the level of placement of the boards, it is necessary to use a lining. In general, this type of frame is inferior in its properties to similar structures made of plastic and metal.
Plastic U-shaped profiles have many advantages, among which are:
- low cost,
- light weight (which is especially important when carrying out installation work on the ceiling),
- ease of fastening,
- insensitive to moisture and heat.
Such profiles are attached quite easily. According to pre-drawn lines, every 30 centimeters, dowels or screws are installed, which are screwed in every meter. It is important to pay attention to the fact that when joining profiles, especially at an angle, it is necessary to use a hacksaw and a miter box (which is a tray for cutting boards at an angle of 45, 30 and 90 degrees). In this case, the cut will be barely noticeable, and the joints will be smooth and tightly adjacent to each other. Another advantage plastic sheathing They highlight the fact that the internal grooves form cable channels for laying communications (wiring for lighting, for example).
A frame made of a metal profile is most suitable for the construction of vertical areas and is most often used for finishing walls with plasterboard (since sheets of this material have significant weight). PVC wall panels, due to their light weight, do not require a powerful and strong frame; for this reason, preference when choosing a design is given to plastic. When using metal, cable laying for lighting must be done in corrugated PVC pipes(PVC) to ensure fire resistance and prevent damage to the braid power cables on the sharp edges of the metal frame.
Installation requirements
Despite the ease of working with polyvinyl chloride products, the panels also require compliance with certain requirements. Among them the following stand out:
- before installation, the material must be allowed to rest for a period of time, this is especially true for those conditions when it was stored at a temperature below 10 degrees Celsius,
- PVC slats are positioned perpendicular to the frame slats,
- if the room humidity is high, it is necessary to make ventilation cuts in the frame,
- When installing, gaps of 5 millimeters must be taken into account to take into account temperature changes in PVC coverings,
- when installing coverings with a pattern, work is always carried out from the left corner to the right (this does not apply to plain coverings),
- installation work cannot be carried out in those rooms whose internal temperature exceeds 40 degrees Celsius (that is, the specified PVC panels are categorically not suitable for creating interiors in steam rooms and baths),
Installation of ceiling panels
After the frame has been mounted, it is worth starting to install the PVC panels. The strips are cut along the length of the ceiling and installed in order, starting with the outermost one. The first strip is attached to the very corner, using self-tapping screws, to the transverse profiles, which form additional rigidity of the frame. The next panels are already inserted into the grooves of the previous ones, so the installation is carried out to the end.
There is a possibility that difficulties may arise during the installation of the last panel, since the material will need to be cut to width. There is another option for attaching the final panel: when it is turned over with a fastening lock in the other direction and the groove is trimmed from the side to the required length.
After the installation of all panels has been completed, it is time for the final work, namely installation ceiling plinth. It is installed quite simply: on inner part a layer is applied liquid nails, after which the plinth is pressed against finished ceiling and hold for 10 seconds for the glue to dry. After that, all that remains is to remove excess glue from the surface and the ceiling is mounted.
It is worth noting that liquid nails on moldings dry out almost instantly, so removal of sagging should be done as quickly as possible.
PVC panels are suitable for the design of any room, since there are a huge variety of models with a wide variety of external styles, but the biggest advantage is their use for interior decoration bathroom and toilet due to the distinctive ability of polyvinyl chloride to resist moisture. This is a significant plus in case of flooding of the bathroom by neighbors above. The panels will withstand the load and there will be no need to make major repairs. In addition, PVC boards are easy to clean and are not susceptible to the formation of mold and bacteria, which allows them to be used for kitchen decoration. Soot and fat resulting from cooking can be easily washed off using simple means household appliances, so the choice of such material will be correct.
Installation of PVC plates on walls
PVC wall panels allow you to quickly and without special costs give the premises a cozy interior. The installation process is not too different from similar work on installing a ceiling, and is described literally step by step:
- a frame made of metal profiles(this is due to the fact that PVC slabs for walls are thicker and heavier, and to hold them requires a more powerful frame than a plastic one),
- then the first panel with a corner is inserted into the profile and mounted against the wall. The second and third panels are inserted into the groove at an angle and attached to the first using gluers (this is the name given to plastic brackets with jagged latches that allow you to securely fix the panel on the metal frame guides),
- after that, all subsequent panels are mounted on the guides in the same way,
- the last panel is inserted into the U-shaped corner and installed together with it on the frame.
After which they are carried out finishing work related to fastening corners and cornices. It is often possible that the wall must have access to electrical sockets and light switches, which will add some complexity to the installation process. In this case, the installation of boxes and laying of power cables must be done before the installation of PVC boards begins. Then, when covering with panels, it is enough to simply cut out the required size hole for the sockets.
It is important to remember the following at any stage of working with panels:
- PVC material is quite fragile, so you should not apply significant external influence on it when laying panels. A strong hand press on the panel is enough to cause a crack to appear on its surface that cannot be repaired.
- The panels must be carefully placed one against the other without any force. If necessary, it is allowed to use an improvised tool, for example, a stationery knife, the narrow blade of which will allow you to guide the edges plastic PVC panels.
At the moment, PVC board, which can be purchased without difficulty in almost any variation and color, is one of the most popular materials for finishing a room, both internal and external. Before purchasing, you just need to check the quality of the product by looking at the absence of transverse uneven stripes and the number of stiffeners - to make sure that the product meets the stated expectations, and then the installation of such a coating will not cause trouble, and the PVC panels themselves will last long enough.
Plastic panels (lining) are used for finishing the inside of houses and apartments. They are actively used to give the desired appearance. various rooms, such as balconies, bathrooms, baths, shops, offices. Installation wall panels Do-it-yourself PVC is a simple task that can be done by anyone who has the desire to make repairs themselves.
First of all, you should decide what is hidden behind the abbreviation PVC. There is nothing difficult or scary about this. Under the three letters lies a simple one - polyvinyl chloride, or even simpler, it is a type of plastic. It has many advantages that are successfully used in the manufacture of finishing materials.
PVC wall panels To be more convincing, we should list those positive traits, which are available for PVC panels. So:
- The technical characteristics of this product allow them to be used in rooms exposed to moisture. This material is completely indestructible and does not absorb water. The only thing that can reduce the effectiveness of using plastic panels is improper use of the frame.
- If you have sufficiently smooth surfaces, you don’t have to deal with additional wall finishing. Installation of PVC wall panels does not require much effort and time.
- They can keep theirs for quite a long time appearance. Namely, do not fade under the influence of sunlight, do not absorb various fumes. To clean them, you don’t need any special tricks - just wash the products with soapy water and wipe dry.
- If a frame is used, additional sound insulation is created. This is achieved due to the air cushion between the wall and the panels. If desired, this space can be used for additional insulation premises, as well as to hide communications.
- The cost of this material is quite low compared to other types. Do not think that such an attractive price category greatly affects the quality of the product. Naturally, if you purchase panels that have neither factory packaging nor certificates, then you can run into a cheap fake.
- Long service life. Yes, such lining can serve for many years. The only thing they are afraid of is temperature changes. This can cause the panels to become unusable. You should also pay attention to mechanical stress, which can damage the integrity of the structure.
PVC panels are very popular due to their low price, as well as many other advantages It becomes clear that this product can be used in different cases. Of course, it is better to avoid installing panels when making renovations in children's and bedrooms.
Material selection
Any hardware store has a large selection of plastic panels. They can be various sizes, colors and textures. Modern technologies make it possible to obtain products that can add a certain elegance to any interior.
Plastic panels are an excellent alternative ceramic tiles for finishing the bathroom, but subject to the right choice material What do you pay attention to when choosing this material:
- The panels are quite light, but you should immediately be wary if the weight is too light. This may indicate that a fake is taking place. Unfortunately, this happens even in large specialized stores.
- There should be no flaws on the front or back side. Namely, any cracks, chips, color inhomogeneities immediately indicate that the product is of poor quality.
- When choosing PVC panels, you need to pay attention to the release date of different packages. It is better to select ones that have the same markings. Otherwise, significant variation may occur.
On a note! When choosing PVC products, do not hesitate to ask the seller for everything Required documents. This is a guarantee of safety and long service life of the material.
Various methods of installing wall panels
To carry out renovation or decoration work plastic panels PVC, there are two main options.
1. Installation of the frame.
This is the simplest option. To implement it we use various materials. The following can be distinguished:
- Wooden beam. Great for many spaces, but cannot be used in areas with high humidity.
- Plastic strips. These are specially designed products that allow you to quickly install panels.
- Metallic profile. The same option is used that allows you to install gypsum board sheets. But this method quite expensive, although very reliable. It is better to use for the ceiling.
2. Installation of panels without sheathing.
Installation of panels directly on the wall This method requires some skill and fairly smooth walls. But if you understand how it happens this process, then the skills come quite quickly. Available significant drawback– if one of the elements becomes unusable, you will have to tear down the entire wall.
Each option is selected individually. It is necessary to take into account the size of the room, its shortcomings and climatic features.
VIDEO: How to properly attach PVC panels to a wall without lathing
Preparation stage
Produced using ordinary tool, which can be found in almost every home owner.
You will need the following:
- tape measure and level;
- pencil and meter ruler;
- drills and screwdrivers;
- self-tapping screws (nails) and dowels;
- stapler;
- jigsaw (saw).
Don't forget that you will also need consumables. These are primarily drills, bits, files and staples. It is better to prepare everything in advance, then the repair time will be significantly reduced.
Do-it-yourself installation of wall panels should not be carried out immediately after purchase; you need to give them time to adapt to the conditions of the room. To do this, they are unpacked and allowed to rest. It's better to spend a day on this.
On a note! If during repairs the installation of plastic panels is planned without using a frame, then the surface is first primed. To do this, use solutions that are selected based on the material of the walls.
Making a frame
As already noted, the lathing can be of several types. In principle, they are all similar in their installation conditions. The installed frame allows you to correct significant unevenness and imperfections in the walls. And also create an additional layer of thermal insulation and hide numerous communications.
On a note! It must be taken into account that the distance between the guides should be from 30 to 45 cm.
Installation of plastic elements
After installing the frame, you can begin installing the facing products. Do-it-yourself installation of PVC panels is carried out according to the following scheme (let’s look at the example of a wooden frame):
VIDEO: Installation of panels on the sheathing
Installing wall panels on the frame is not difficult. In the absence of sheathing, everything is done using glue, which is applied to the finishing element. The main thing is to do everything quickly and do not forget that correcting the shortcomings will be extremely difficult.
PVC material, great for self-installation, therefore, the installation of plastic slats is accessible to any person who gets down to business, having previously prepared the tools and materials:
* square, electric drill, pobedit drills, jigsaw, water level, screwdriver, stapler (10 mm staples or more), pliers, tape measure, hammer, CD foam, ladder;
* dowels/nails, plastic material, starting strips, corners and connecting elements, sheathing strips and bars, ceiling and floor plinths, a can of liquid nails.
The process of installing plastic sheathing step by step
1. We make a lattice base so that it serves frame structure to secure the panels. The size of the beams for the sheathing is 30*40, 30*50, 50*50 mm, but not less than “twenty”. We recommend treating the wood with antifungal impregnation if the dampness in the room is high, and maybe even choosing a galvanized profile.
The bars are fastened to concrete with dowel nails (6 mm diameter, length from 60 mm), and to wood - with self-tapping screws. The sheathing must be leveled when it is secured to the surface using plywood pads. The distance between the slats should be up to 500 mm. It is necessary that the slats are perpendicular to the panels and must be located at the beginning and end of the surfaces to be covered (floor-ceiling, window openings).
We make lathing for installing panels
2. On the prepared sheathing at the junction of the walls, from where the installation of the panels will begin, a starting strip is secured using a furniture stapler\clips\screws\nails (this is a strip with an “L”- and “U”-shaped section). If the wall is higher than the length of the panel, joining elements - "H" - will be required.
3. We insert the first PVC panel into the groove of the profile, making sure that the connection is tight and that there are no gaps between the panels. Be sure to check the location of the first panel with a level. Then we attach the wide shelf to the sheathing with staples.
4. Install subsequent panels in the same way, inserting a narrow shelf into the fixed groove. The sequence of work is as follows: insert a narrow shelf into the groove, snap it into place, check with a plumb line, fix the panel with a stapler on the sheathing. We fix the last panel in the corner profile. It is advisable to trim it so as not to crush the corner strip.
5. The gaps formed when joining plastic elements are sealed with special slats with corners (there are external and internal, we select them according to location). You can use a starting strip, which in cross-section looks like the English letter F, that is, F-shaped, when finishing a joint with a window, a corner surface or a doorway. Bringing the plank to the floor, cover the gaps with plinth. End strips, baseboard finishing will help give the surface a finished look.
Requirements when working with PVC materials
* constant room temperature, if there is a difference, then within 20°C;
* installation only in warm time year, so that the environment is warmed up to at least +10 degrees, the need for “tracking” plastic materials warm before installation;
* holes are needed in the lattice lining, if there is high humidity, to ventilate the space;
* transverse installation (horizontal) means that the edge on the facade should be at the bottom to prevent water from flowing in;
* plastic changes in length, “growing” by one tenth of a percent with every ten degrees, leave gaps.
Pros and cons of using PVC panels
Many colors, ease of installation, good sound and heat insulation are the advantages of the material. And let's consider the disadvantages fire danger PVC and the need to disassemble the entire coating if one element is damaged.
Video - installation of plastic panels
As mentioned above, the performance qualities of large-panel houses largely depend on the design of the joints between the panels and with other elements of the building.
The joints between the panels of the external walls must be sealed (i.e., have low air permeability and prevent the penetration of rainwater into the structure), prevent the formation of condensation at the joint (due to insufficient heat-shielding properties), and have sufficient strength to protect the joint from appearing in it. cracks
When designing large-panel buildings, it is also necessary to take into account the characteristics of the walls. If in brick walls the loads are distributed evenly, but in large-panel ones they are concentrated at the junctions of the panels. In addition, under the influence of temperature changes, the linear dimensions of the wall change. This occurs due to the influence of positive (from the inside) and negative (from the outside) temperatures on the surface of the panel, as a result of which its linear dimensions change. The resulting forces lead to the formation of cracks.
According to their location, the joints are divided into vertical and horizontal.
Vertical joints Based on the way the panels are connected to each other, they are divided into elastic and rigid (monolithic). When constructing an elastic joint (Fig. 10), the panels are connected using steel ties welded to the embedded parts of the joined elements. The wall panel of the internal transverse wall fits into the groove formed by the quarters to a depth of 50 mm. The panels are connected using a strip steel plate welded to the embedded parts of the panels. To seal the joint, a sealing cord of gernite with glue or poroizol with mastic is inserted into its narrow gap. From the outside, the joint is coated with a special mastic - thiokol sealant. To insulate against moisture penetration, the inside of the joint is glued to bitumen mastic a vertical strip of one layer of waterproofing or roofing material. The vertical joint well is filled with heavy concrete.
The disadvantage of resilient joints is the possibility of corrosion of steel connections and embedded parts. Such fastenings are flexible and do not always ensure long-term joint operation of the mating panels and, therefore, cannot protect the joint from cracks. This happens because the heating during welding causes the embedded part to tear away from the concrete in which it was embedded during manufacture. Atmospheric or condensation moisture penetrating into the gap destroys the lower surface of the embedded part.
To protect against corrosion, they are coated at the factory on all sides with zinc by spraying, hot-dip galvanizing or galvanizing. After welding during panel installation protective layer on the front side of the embedded part and the connection-plate is restored using gas-flame metallization. In addition, galvanized steel elements are protected by embedding them with cement-sand mortar (1:1.5...1:2) with a thickness of at least 20 mm.
Rigid monolithic joints are more reliable in operation. The strength of the connection between the joined elements is ensured by embedding the connecting steel reinforcement with concrete. In Fig. Figure 11 shows a monolithic joint of single-layer wall panels with looped reinforcement outlets connected by round steel brackets with a diameter of 12 mm. A vertical air cavity is formed between the sealed joint zone and the sealing, which serves drainage channel, which diverts water entering the seam and releases it outside at the level of the base.
For device horizontal joints The upper wall panel is laid on the lower one cement mortar. In this case, through a horizontal joint tightly filled with mortar, rainwater can penetrate mainly due to capillary suction of water through the mortar. That is why such a complex geometry of the horizontal joint was adopted (Fig. 12). It contains a so-called rain barrier or a tooth in the form of a ridge going from top to bottom. On the inclined part, the solution is interrupted and an air gap is created, within which the rise of moisture through the capillaries stops. Thus, we see that to ensure normal performance of walls made of large panels, various materials are used for making joints, having a wide variety of physical and mechanical properties: fastening (steel), insulating (mineral wool liners), waterproofing (roofing felt or insulation), binders and compacting (concrete and mortar), sealing (poroizol or gernite and mastics). All these materials have different durability and often much less than the service life of the building. That is why, when designing panel joints and their execution, special attention must be paid to ensuring high quality production construction work, using for this purpose only materials with good physical and mechanical properties.
The connection of panels of internal walls of frameless buildings (Fig. 13) is carried out by welding connecting rods with a diameter of 12 mm to the embedded parts along the top of the panel. The vertical seams between the panels are filled with elastic gaskets made of antiseptic soft fiberboards wrapped in roofing felt, and the vertical channel is filled with fine-grained concrete or mortar.
In Fig. Figure 14 shows a unit for supporting floor slabs on an internal panel and connecting the panels using a self-locking bolt.
Often, the horizontal joint between the load-bearing panels of transverse walls and floors is designed as a platform type (Fig. 15), the peculiarity of which is that the floors are supported by half the thickness of the transverse wall panels, in which the forces in the upper wall panel are transferred to the lower one through the supporting parts of the floor panels.
The seams between panels and slabs are made using mortar. However, if the joints are not completely filled with mortar in certain areas of the panels, there may be a danger of stress concentration. To prevent this phenomenon, cement-sand plasticized paste is used for butt joints, from which thin joints with a thickness of 4...5 mm can be obtained. This paste consists of Portland cement grade 400...500 and fine sand with a maximum particle size of 0.6 mm (composition 1:1) with the addition of a plasticizing and antifreeze additive sodium nitrate in an amount of 5... 10% by weight of cement. This paste seems to glue the panels together.
During the construction of large-panel buildings, there are many other joint designs, but the requirements for them and the principles of execution are general.
Frame-panel buildings and their structures
In the construction of public and partially residential buildings, frame frames are widely used. design diagrams. A frame-panel building is a building with a load-bearing base made of a prefabricated reinforced concrete frame with curtain walls or floor-supported walls. Column grid 6*3, 6*6, 7.2*7.2. Floor height depending on the functional purpose of the building and its premises.
Advantages:
Separate functions of load-bearing and enclosing structures
Reducing concrete consumption and building weight by approximately 2 times
Wide variety of volumetric planning solutions with the possibility of implementing flexible planning
Good conditions for modernization and redevelopment
Possibility of solving external walls in different options
There are frame systems, frame-braced and braced.
Frame system(Fig. 16) consists of columns, rigidly connected to them by floor beams, located in mutually perpendicular directions and thus forming a rigid structural system. Connections of columns and crossbars are complex and very labor-intensive, requiring significant metal consumption. The columns of buildings with a frame system have a variable cross-section along the height of the building. If the frame is made in a monolithic version, then it is more rigid than a prefabricated one, but at the same time more labor-intensive. This system has limited application in the construction of multi-story civil buildings.
In frame-bracing systems(Fig. 12.19) the joint work of frame elements is achieved by redistributing the share of frames and vertical bracing walls (diaphragms) in it. Diaphragm walls are located along the entire height of the building, rigidly fixed in the foundation and with adjacent columns. They are placed in a direction perpendicular to the direction of the frames and in their plane. The distance between the tie walls is usually 24...30 m. They can be flat and spatial. Transverse diaphragm connections are arranged through the entire width of the building. In terms of the degree of ensuring spatial rigidity, metal consumption and labor intensity, frame-braced frames occupy an intermediate place between frame and braced frames. These systems are used in the design public buildings up to 12 floors high with unified structural and planning grids 6x6 and 6 x 3 m.
For public buildings of higher storeys they use communication systems frames with spatial connecting elements in the form of walls or spatial elements rigidly connected to each other at an angle, running along the entire height of the building, forming the so-called “stiffness core” (Fig. 18). These spatial bracing elements of rigidity are fixed in the foundations and connected to the floors, forming floor-by-floor horizontal connections - diaphragms (disks), which absorb horizontal (wind) loads transmitted to the walls. The consumption of steel and concrete in buildings with braced systems is 20...30% less compared to frame and frame-braced ones.
Spatial connecting elements are usually placed in the central part
The rigidity of the building is ensured by: creating a horizontal disk using floor slabs. Wall panels in this case are self-supporting or hinged.
Spatial rigidity of frames high-rise buildings is ensured, in addition, by the creation of special horizontal hard disks, forming the so-called technical floors. They are also used for the location of engineering equipment. Such spatial horizontal disks, together with vertical ones, provide good rigidity to buildings. In the practice of constructing buildings of 60...100 floors, bracing systems are used in the form of lattice unbraced or braced trusses, rigidly fastened in the corners and forming, as it were, an external shell box in which the building is enclosed. This is very efficient system, since it has high spatial rigidity and, together with the internal rigidity core, absorbs horizontal loads.
To reduce the total weight of structures of frame high-rise buildings, lightweight concrete is used, which makes it possible to reduce the weight of the above-ground part of the building by almost 30%. External walls are usually used as lightweight curtain walls.
The crossbars can be located in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
Elements of the precast reinforced concrete frame (Fig. 20) include rectangular columns of one or two floors with one console for the outer row and two consoles for the middle row; T-section crossbars with one or two shelves for supporting floor slabs and flights of stairs; floor slabs (hollow-core or solid), consisting of intercolumn slabs, wall slabs with grooves for columns and rows) with a width of 1200, 1500 mm.
The pairing of frame elements made to the support is called a node. The node includes:
column joint (Fig. 21, a, b). The column is supported through the concrete protrusions of the heads, welding the outlets of the reinforcement and caulking the joint;
resting the crossbar on the column console (Fig. 21, c) On the surface, the console is secured by welding embedded parts, at the top - with a steel plate welded to the embedded parts of the column and crossbar, then the seams are sealed with mortar;
resting the floor slab on the crossbar (Fig. 21d). The slabs laid on the shelves of the crossbars are connected to each other with steel ties, the gaps between them are sealed with mortar.
During renovations, you don’t always want to deal with “wet” work - laying tiles, for example. There are more simple technology- wall decoration with plastic panels. You can handle it yourself, even without much experience in construction work, and in a day or two you can carry out repairs in the bathroom, toilet, balcony/loggia and kitchen.
Types of plastic panels for wall decoration
This type of finishing material is made from PVC - polyvinyl chloride. In a semi-liquid state, this polymer is squeezed into a mold. A drawing is applied to the finished panels. It can be first printed on film, then glued and varnished (laminated panels). Moreover, these panels may not have a smooth, but a textured surface. The design applied using this technology retains paint for a long time, but similar materials cost about twice as much.
Another technology is to apply the design directly to the plastic, and then cover it with two layers of varnish. Cheaper technology, but the service life and quality of the drawing are lower.
Ceiling and wall
There are two types of plastic panels - for ceilings and for walls. Those intended for the ceiling have a thickness of 5 mm and thinner partitions, and those for walls have a thickness of 8 to 10 mm and thicker walls and partitions. You can determine which species is in front of you by looking at the cut. This type of finishing material is distinguished by the fact that it has a smooth surface and, when joined tightly, the seams are not very noticeable.
There is another standard size, which is also called plastic lining - with a thickness of 10 mm, the panel has a width of 10 cm and shaped edges that are more typical for plastic lining. If you decorate the walls with this material, the surface will not be flat, but embossed, similar to wooden lining.
Sizes and prices
The width of plastic wall panels is most often 25 cm and 37 cm, length - 2700 cm and 3000 cm. There are other non-standard sizes, but these are the most common. There is quite a wide variation in price - it depends on the wall thickness, type of printing, manufacturer, complexity of the design, etc.
| Title/photo | Parameters (width/length/thickness) | Type of staining | Manufacturer | Price for 1 panel |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Pink violet  | 250 mm * 2700 mm * 8 mm | V-Plast, Russia | 120 rub. | |
Kanamala  | 250 mm * 2700 mm * 9 mm | lamination | Vivipan | 220 rub. |
PVC Panel Mosaic Turquoise  | 950 mm * 480 mm * 3 mm | Russia | 128 rub. | |
Scarlet  | 250 mm * 2700 mm * 8 mm | Cronoplast (Russia) | 215 RUR |
Thin PVC wall panels
Above we discussed products that consist of two layers of plastic connected by jumpers. Along with a lot of advantages, they have a rather serious drawback: if you apply enough force, they can be pushed through. This is often the reason for refusing to use them. Therefore, thin plastic wall panels appeared on the market not long ago. Their thickness is 3 mm and there are no cells. Only a layer of plastic with a pattern applied to the surface. Accordingly, there is nothing to push. The dimensions of this type of panels are 950 * 480 mm or so.
Their installation method is different - they are glued to the walls. Due to what this has finishing material It is cut at a very small thickness with scissors and, moreover, takes up very little space from the room - 3 mm.
What to look for when choosing
It is clear that the choice begins with color and pattern. But to avoid any difficulties during the installation process, you need to keep track of some points when purchasing:
It is also worth checking the quality of the polymer used. You need to take one plank so that it bends by about 30% and straighten it. After that, examine it. If there is no damage to the plastic or pattern, everything is fine.
The correct technology for installing plastic panels on walls
The good thing about decorating walls with plastic panels is that you can do it yourself and it takes a little time. Well, one more plus - you need the usual tools:
This is all that may be needed when installing PVC panels on walls. The time required is one to two days, depending on the availability of experience and the area being repaired.
What to make the sheathing from
PVC installation panels on the walls according to the technology should be made on the lathing. The sheathing is made from:
Of the three listed materials, it is best to use plastic for installing plastic panels in the bathroom. It reacts little to temperature changes, does not react in any way to changes in humidity, does not rot or crack. Galvanization feels good in a humid environment, but it must be good quality Otherwise it will still rust. The most unimportant material is wood, but even with proper treatment they can last for years. And for this to happen, carefully follow the recommendations for applying an antibacterial composition. In some cases, it is enough to brush it a couple of times, in others it is enough to soak it for a while and then dry it.
How to make lathing
Before installing the sheathing under the PVC panels, the walls must be prepared. First, remove the old finish and anything that might fall off. If there are large recesses on the surface, it is better to seal them, and strongly protruding parts can be trimmed off. After the wall has become more or less even, it is treated with a primer with an antibacterial component (against fungi and mold). After this, you can begin installing the sheathing.
The sheathing strips are positioned perpendicular to the PVC panels. That is, if you attach the panels vertically, the sheathing – horizontally and vice versa. Install the sheathing strips at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. Optimal distance— 30 cm (the “walk” panel will be smaller). The strips are attached at the beginning and end of the wall, as well as around window and door openings.
The sheathing under the plastic panels is most often secured with dowels. IN concrete wall put 6*40 mm (so that with reverse side a piece of the concrete partition did not fall out), in the brick partition - 6*60 mm. Fasteners are installed in increments of 50-60 cm.
In order for the wall decoration with plastic panels to be smooth and beautiful, the lathing must be placed in the same plane. To do this, install under wooden planks where necessary. wooden spacers(you can use pieces of plywood), but they also need to be treated with a composition against fungi and mold.
You can also use perforated hangers for plasterboard ceilings. They are used when placing metal profiles in one plane, but they can also be used when installing wooden blocks.
If you decide to make a sheathing from plastic mounting profiles, then it is worth considering one point: they must be strictly perpendicular to the PVC panels. Even a slight deviation can lead to the fact that the clamps simply do not snap into place and will not hold anything. Therefore, check the verticals/horizontals very carefully. One more point: it is better to install wooden planks of the same thickness as the plastic guides along the perimeter of the walls, doors and windows: we will attach the starting profiles to them.
Installation of plastic panels
In addition to the plastic wall panels themselves, you will need to buy some more accessories in the store - these are corner, starting and F-shaped profiles. They are necessary to give the finish a finished and neat look.
At the floor and ceiling level, you can use either a starter or ceiling plinth. The starting one is just a narrow strip of plastic, and the ceiling plinth is a shaped product with a characteristic cut.
Finishing PVC walls panels begins with installing selected profiles in one of the corners and at the top/bottom. They are attached to established standards battens. Fasteners are selected depending on what material was chosen for the sheathing. The result is something very similar to a frame. We will insert the panels into it.
The problem point is the junction of the corner and ceiling plinth (we do the same below)
Next, cut the first panel to the length or height of the wall. Plastic wall panels are cut with a saw and a metal blade. When working with your hand (and even more so with your foot), do not lean on it - push. To ensure that the strip fits into its designated place without any problems, carefully measure the length, subtract 4-5 mm and cut it off.
The protruding spike is cut off from the first strip, after which the cut side is inserted into the corner profile, tucking the edges into the top and bottom. Lightly tapping with your palm, push the bar all the way, check the verticality of the level, applying it to the edge of the installed strip. Then they fix the lathing to each plank.
Having installed and secured the first strip, cut off the second, join it to the first, secure it, etc. No difficulties. Problems can only arise with last panel on the wall. You usually have to cut it to width, and then try to tuck it immediately into the groove of the previous plank and into the corner or starting profile. It doesn’t always work out neatly—the plastic often gets jammed. This situation can be avoided by not securing the second corner profile. Then a corner profile is put on the panel cut to size, the whole thing is joined together with the previous plank and only then the corner profile is secured. This is not entirely correct, since only one half is attached corner profile, and the second remains unsecured. But after you’ve been tired of trying to do it right, you don’t pay attention to it anymore. Then everything is repeated - further finishing of the walls with plastic panels occurs in exactly the same way.
How to do without corner profiles
If we are accustomed to the presence of skirting boards at the top and bottom of the wall, then not everyone likes corner profiles. When decorating walls with plastic panels, you can do without them. You will need a sharp wallpaper or stationery knife. If you cut a strip of plastic from the back in the right place, the panel can be bent. It won’t be visible from the front side, and you can avoid the hassle of dealing with the last panel. And outwardly, many people like this solution better.
To correctly determine where to cut, insert the penultimate panel and secure it. We take a piece of panel a few centimeters wide, insert it into the already installed one and mark where the corner is located. We take it out, cut out a strip of plastic in the marked place, and try it on. If everything is fine, we use this piece as a template, moving the exact location of the cut. This is also not a technology, but it seems to me that decorating the walls with plastic panels looks better. Especially if the color and texture of the corner profile is different.
How else can you fix PVC panels on the walls?
Although the method described above for decorating walls with plastic panels is not very complicated, it is not suitable for everyone. For example, the walls are perfectly smooth after plastering with beacons or. It is clear that lathing is not needed. It will only take up space. In this case, they violate technology - they glue plastic panels onto silicone or polyurethane foam.
In this case, the starting profiles will still have to be installed, but they will need to be secured to the appropriate dowels. After that, foam (zigzag) or silicone is applied to the back side of the panel (in islands in increments of 10-15 cm), the bar is inserted into the profiles, pressed, and fixed in one or two places with appropriate fasteners. They continue in the same spirit.
The advantage of the method is that it is very fast, the disadvantage is that it only works on smooth (or almost) walls. But the most important thing is that it is simply impossible to remove the finish without destroying the plastic panels.
