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Cesspool for wastewater. How easy is it to make a cesspool in a private house yourself and without special expenses? Installation of hatch and ceiling

If a person lives in a house, it must have a sewer system, since waste products still need to be removed somehow. And it’s hard to disagree with this, isn’t it? Modern industry offers many solutions: from multi-section septic tanks to neat dry closets. But an ordinary cesspool in a private house is still relevant and in demand.

But, before you start building a cesspool on your site, you will have to weigh the pros and cons. After all, an incorrectly chosen location, and the design of the cesspool itself, subsequently threatens to result in many problems. The most common of them is the appearance unpleasant odor. We will tell you how to avoid this problem.

In the article we collected and summarized information about the types and design features of cesspools. In addition, here you can find useful tips and recommendations on how to properly select and build a sewer system on the site. The material is accompanied by thematic photos and videos.

cesspool- This is perhaps the oldest and simplest type of sewage system. It is a depression in the ground in which wastewater is accumulated and partially processed.

Any wastewater contains a certain amount of bacteria that absorb and transform these accumulations. Part of the filtered wastewater passes into the underlying soils.

Everything that has not been processed and has not gone into the underlying layers should be periodically removed from the cesspool so that the container does not overfill.

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For residents of the private sector who are not connected to a sewer, the question of how to make a pit for domestic waste is always relevant.

Depending on the amount of water to be drained, you can select suitable option:

• a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option for draining a bathhouse;
• sealed cesspool - for a large amount of waste;
• septic tank - for partial cleaning and drainage of wastewater.

Which is better - a sealed or drained cesspool?

If the daily amount of drained water does not exceed one cubic meter, you can use drain hole. This is convenient, for example, when organizing a drain in a bathhouse. It is enough to dig a pit with a volume of 3 m³, lay a cushion of 30 cm of sand and 50 cm of stones on the bottom, strengthen its walls with bricks, concrete or even tires and close the hole.

Through such a filtration pad, water will slowly seep into the ground, purifying itself along the way.

If much more water is drained, it does not have time to seep through and be cleaned. Then you can make a completely sealed cesspool. Ready-made containers are sold that can be buried immediately.

Or you can do it yourself by concreteing the foundation pit or installing concrete rings on a concrete base.

The only drawback of such a pit is the monthly pumping of waste.

Septic tank - the best cesspool

If the amount of drainage exceeds one and a half cubic meters per day, but it is expensive to order monthly pumping of the pit, the best solution is to make a septic tank in a private house. It filters waste quite well, polluting the environment much less than a conventional pit latrine. Already on sale ready-made systems, which is enough to bury on the site, or you can do it completely yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages homemade septic tank

A do-it-yourself septic tank has whole line advantages over ready-made solutions:

The final cost is significantly lower;

A large area is not required to organize a filtration field;

You can organize one septic tank for two houses;

Depending on the type of wastewater, pumping is required every few years;

A complete cleaning can be done once every ten years.

But such a septic tank also has disadvantages:

– significant labor costs – it is problematic to cope with the installation of a septic tank alone;

– time – pouring cement into the formwork and hardening it takes about a month;

– optional equipment– to simplify the process, you will need a concrete mixer or drill with a mixer.

Choosing a site on the site

The requirements for a septic tank are the same as for a cesspool - no closer than 15 meters from the well and 30 m from the reservoir. At the same time, do not forget about your neighbors - the distance to their well should also not be less. But it can be placed almost close to the house - 3 m from the foundation for a one-story building, and 5 m for a two-story building. In addition, this is how the issue of insulating the drain pipe is resolved - the greater the distance to the hole, the deeper the trench will have to be dug and the pipe insulated.

It is imperative to take into account the direction of groundwater and flood waters - they should not go from the septic tank to the house or well. At the same time, it is also undesirable to install a septic tank in the lower part of the site - melt and runoff water will flood it. To protect the septic tank from flooding or raise it above the level groundwater, it does not need to be buried completely in the ground, but the above-ground part is insulated to prevent freezing.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a septic tank pit

After choosing a place for the septic tank, work on its organization begins. It is necessary to calculate the required volume of the main chamber and the overall dimensions of the pit. So, for four people you will need a main chamber of at least 150x150 cm, and for five or six – 200x200 cm. In this case, the depth should be at least 2.5 m, but not deeper than 3 m. This is done for the convenience of future pumping. The second, or drainage, chamber cannot be less than a third of the main one.

If there is a shower in the house and its daily use, the size of the chambers should be increased by another 50%. It is also better to leave a small reserve, since filling the working chamber should not exceed 2/3 of the total volume per day. In addition, the drainage in the working chamber should settle a little, and not immediately flow into the drainage chamber. The optimal volume of a septic tank is the daily amount of drained water multiplied by 3.

1. After determining the size of the chambers, markings are made and a pit is dug. Upper fertile layer can be removed - it can be used to cover a septic tank and create a garden bed.

The improved DIY cesspool is ready to go. After some time, the bottom of the main chamber silts up, bacteria develop there, increasing the filtration capabilities of the pillow, and in the second chamber the final purification of the drain water occurs.

DIY cesspool

DIY cesspool. Communications. For residents of the private sector who are not connected to a sewer system, the question of how to make a pit for domestic waste is always relevant. Depending on the amount of water to be drained, you can choose the appropriate option: a pit without a bottom (drain) is a suitable option for draining a bathhouse; sealed cesspool - for a large person.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands

Residents of multi-apartment buildings do not have to worry about the removal and disposal of biowaste; housing and communal services do everything for them. Those who live in a private house need to resolve such problems themselves. One solution is to build a cesspool. It does not require large installation costs and performs an excellent sanitary cleaning function. You just need to know how to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands.

Choosing a cesspool location

There is a system of rules and regulations that controls the construction of a cesspool for a private home. Sanitary standards determine the location of the cesspool on the site and the distance from it to various outbuildings. When planning pits for biowaste, the following rules must be taken into account:

• The cesspool should be located at a distance of at least a dozen meters from residential premises;
• There should be more than a meter from the cesspool to the fence;
• When installing a bottomless pit, it is necessary to take into account the location of the wells. The nearest well must be at a distance of no less than 30 meters.

The simplest cheap options

The predecessor of the cesspool was an ordinary hole dug in the soil, the walls of which were smeared with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other old containers into the ground. Today, such tanks for collecting and partially purifying waste are installed only when the daily volume is no more than one cubic meter.

If the owner of a private house does not really want to spend money on arranging a cesspool, he can use old car tires. You just need to put them in a dug basin, connecting them with bolts. Then the basin is covered with earth, a concrete slab is placed on top with a hole for the ventilation pipe, as well as a hatch for pumping out.

Popular types of structures

Based on the characteristic design differences, pits for biowaste are divided into absorbent and sealed. Septic tanks are used to collect, store and treat waste. These are structures with a more complex design.

Absorption tanks (bottomless)

A distinctive feature is that there is no bottom; therefore, the liquids, after being cleaned with a sand, gravel and brick filter, are sent to the soil. The absorption tank is the most inexpensive and easiest to install. Due to the partial infiltration of treated wastewater into the soil, there is much less need to call a sewage service.

The absorbent type is selected if there is no need to drain a lot of waste water. The soil will not be able to accept and process large volumes. Also, such a pit cannot be called an environmentally friendly option, because waste entering the soil will pollute it.

Sealed containers

They are closed waterproof concrete/brick/gas silicate tanks. They must be emptied regularly after filling. If you know how to properly make a sealed cesspool, you will be guaranteed the absolute absence of odors characteristic of a toilet, but sometimes you will have to call the sanitation service. Remember that the use of cinder blocks for the construction of a cesspool is unacceptable (they quickly collapse when in contact with water).

The simplest solution for arranging a cesspool is the installation of a store-bought plastic tank. It does not need to be sealed, but you will need to fill the bottom of the basin with a special cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement.

Simple homemade cleaning structures

These are structures that not only perform deep cleaning, but also transform wastewater into fertilizer useful for the garden. They are often a two- or three-chamber system. In the 1st chamber, collection and partial cleaning are carried out, in the 2nd and 3rd, complete recycling of waste occurs.

You can use old car tires. To install such a cesspool, you do not need a solid concrete foundation; a dense sand cushion with crushed stone thirty-five centimeters thick, as well as a one-decimeter screed, will suffice.

• To increase the reservoir capacity, the tire sides must be trimmed;
• A vertical concrete pipe with a diameter approximately a couple of times smaller than that of tires is placed in a well made from tires. The upper section of the pipe is located a decimeter lower than the well constructed from tires;
• The bottom of the pipe is filled with concrete to form a solid cylinder.

Holes will need to be made on top for infiltration and installation of pipes that will provide overflow. The sewerage pipe must be inserted into a concrete tank. The areas where sewer pipes enter vertical concrete pipes must be sealed.

How to build an absorption pit from concrete rings

• It is necessary to dig a shaft-type basin; its diameter should be approximately eighty centimeters larger than the diameter of the rings. You will need three rings;
• A concrete screed is made around the perimeter. This is the future base for the rings;
• In the lower ring, make holes every decimeter so that the purified liquid has the opportunity to leave the sump. The diameter of the filtration holes is five centimeters;
• The depth of the structure underground should not be more than three meters, otherwise it will be difficult to remove sediment from the cesspool;
• Approximately a meter deep, the finished pit is filled with sand, brick, crushed stone and gravel mixed with soil;
• The outer basin is filled with the same mixture. Before backfilling, the cesspool is waterproofed, which will protect the structure from groundwater;
• At the end there is a plate with a pair of holes. One is intended for the hatch, the second for ventilation;
• To increase the quality of purification, it is recommended to place the filter well slightly higher than the cleaning tank.

Installation of a sealed structure

The construction method is similar, but there is no need to make infiltration holes, you need to completely concrete the bottom. It is recommended to reinforce the lower platform with concrete. To prevent the reinforcement from getting stuck in the concrete, it must be raised slightly and secured on pegs.

It is advisable to seal the walls. Bitumen is considered an inexpensive internal insulator, and clay is considered an external insulator. If the walls of the cesspool consist of brickwork, they can be covered with plaster.

Laying bricks takes much longer than installing concrete rings. A concrete screed is made below, the bricks are laid in a circle/square. Before you start laying, you need to wait a week after creating the concrete platform.

The sewerage pipeline must be tilted slightly to ensure spontaneous drainage.

Toilet cesspool

Those who want to build a toilet should also know how to properly make a cesspool. Most often, a small hole is dug, to which you can freely drive up to empty it. The cesspool is lined with bricks or filled with concrete.

The depth can be arbitrary, it all depends on the soil of the litter. It is recommended to dig a cesspool down to a layer of sand that will absorb waste. The bottom of the pit is filled up sand and gravel mixture, crushed stone.

Other dimensions are installed on site. Ventilation is recommended. A pipe that rises about six decimeters above the roof of the restroom is suitable.

How to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands

Learn more about how you can make a cesspool with your own hands in a private house. How to choose a place. The best options. Arrangement technology.

Cesspool in a private house - diagram, materials, device

A cesspool in a private house, the layout of which is chosen in accordance with existing requirements and regulations, is capable of collecting household wastewater without the risk of soil contamination. Despite the fact that constructing a pit is simpler than, for example, constructing a septic tank, there are certain nuances that directly affect the effectiveness of such sewer system and, accordingly, on the comfort of living.

Pros and cons of using

The advantages of cesspools are determined simplicity of their design. Such a structure can be built quite quickly. In addition, its cost will be low - often the most affordable materials are used, including second-hand ones.

The disadvantage of a cesspool is, first of all, the need to pump out wastewater. Depending on the circumstances (volume of the pit, number of people, availability of water-consuming household appliances) frequency may vary, but the services of a sewer truck will always be one of your expenses.

Pumping out a cesspool using sewage disposal equipment

Important: The maximum depth of the cesspool should not be more than 3 meters, otherwise problems may arise with its pumping.

Another significant drawback that you need to know about before making a cesspool in a private house with your own hands is sanitary “unreliability”, if we are talking about its leaky version. It is necessary to very carefully consider the location of the cesspool and its design, calculate the required volume so that the structure does not poison the existence of the inhabitants of the house with unpleasant odors and, even worse, does not cause it to get into the soil of the garden. harmful substances or the occurrence of infectious diseases.

Types of cesspools

The design of cesspools in a private house largely depends on how the country building is used. For a small amount of waste and periodic residence, you can choose a pit without a bottom, but if a family of several people lives in the house permanently, it is better to prefer a sealed storage tank. Each of the options deserves more detailed consideration.

Cesspool without bottom

A cesspool without a bottom is a kind of “well”, the walls of which prevent wastewater from entering the upper layers of the soil, and instead of the bottom, a kind of filter made of crushed stone or gravel is installed. Passing through it, the wastewater is partially filtered, after which it enters the soil and, passing through it, is purified more efficiently. The advantage of this option is that there is no need to constantly call vacuum cleaners. You won’t be able to do without cleaning at all, but its frequency can be significantly reduced.

The photo shows a diagram of a cesspool in a private house without a bottom

It is advisable wastewater separation and the installation of separate cesspools for the toilet. In this case, the toilet pit will fill more slowly (and, accordingly, require calling out special equipment less often), and wastewater from the shower, bathtub, and kitchen sink with a minimum amount of insoluble inclusions will almost completely go through the filter into the soil.

One of the options for separating wastewater into different tanks

Use of bioactivators promotes the decomposition of impurities in Wastewater ah, better cleaning quality and slower filling. Only sludge remains in the container, and purified water is removed through a filter. Bacteria in the soil act in a similar way, however, if the total volume of wastewater exceeds 1 cubic meter, there will not be enough of them to process such an amount of liquid.

It is important to know that such a do-it-yourself cesspool for a private home has “contraindications”.

• The close location of groundwater excludes the possibility of installing a model without a bottom, since when its level rises during a flood or during heavy rain, the hole can spontaneously fill. In addition, under such conditions, the quality of filtration noticeably decreases - wastewater does not pass through the soil, being purified, but goes directly into groundwater.
• Clay soil has too low permeability to ensure timely removal of the contents of the cesspool.
• The volume of such a cesspool should not be more than 1 cubic meter.

Sealed cesspool

Sealed structures with a bottom are only storage units. The wastewater must be pumped out using a sewer truck. Despite the need to pay for the services of special equipment, this option also has its advantages:

• sanitary safety and eliminating the possibility of soil contamination and the spread of pathogenic bacteria,
• Possibility of use in all types of soil.

For sealed structures of small volume, ready-made waterproof containers are often used. A large cesspool in a private house, the design of which involves collecting wastewater from a large number of points, is most often built from one or another material suitable for its characteristics.

Materials for cesspools

By considering the features of materials often used for the construction of such structures and comparing them with the conditions of a particular facility, you can decide which cesspool in a private house will be the most effective and economical.

Finished goods

Usage finished products can significantly reduce lead time construction work, and in some cases – their complexity.

• Tires cars are used as blocks - they are installed one on top of the other, secured with clamps, waterproof glue and sealing joints. In most cases, tire cesspools have no bottom. The advantages of this option are low cost, easy and quick installation.

A tire cesspool is one of the cheapest options for organizing sewerage

• Concrete rings- another option for block construction of cesspools. They weigh a lot, so lifting equipment will be required to install them in the pit. At the same time, construction will not take much time, and the resulting structure will be strong and durable. Concrete rings can be used to construct both hermetic storage tanks and filter structures without a bottom. In the first case, the rings are installed on concrete foundation. It is recommended to seal joints and treat the internal and external surfaces of concrete products with waterproofing compounds (one of the most affordable options is ordinary bitumen, although special mastics can be purchased if desired) regardless of the type of product.

Concrete rings for sewerage

• Iron or plastic barrels require minimal effort during installation, but they significant disadvantage is a small volume. As a storage facility, they are only suitable for a summer residence, and to install a cesspool with a filter, the bottom will need to be removed. Iron products require the application of a waterproofing coating on the outside and inside for protection against corrosion.

Plastic barrel as a sewage container

• Plastic storage models fixation to the foundation is required to prevent them from floating during floods. In addition, at the stage of backfilling the assembled structure, it is recommended to fill the container with water to prevent its deformation due to compression by soil.

Plastic storage tank

Installation of plastic Eurocubes

Construction Materials

The use of building materials slightly increases the time it takes to create a structure. At the same time, a significant advantage is that a do-it-yourself cesspool in a private house in this case can be arranged in any configuration, taking into account sanitary requirements and site planning. It can be round or rectangular, including narrow and long, if this option is more convenient to locate on the territory.

• Concrete poured structures are made using formwork by gradually increasing the height of the wall.
• Brickwork can be done in a circle, but more often, for reasons of convenience, brick pits are made rectangular.

Both options can be used for the construction of storage or filter structures and in most cases require the application of a double-sided waterproofing layer.

In certain situations, additional holes are made in the walls of the pit for better drainage

Rules for choosing location and volume

The volume of the cesspool must, according to sanitary standards, be no less than the three-day water consumption rate. The estimated number is considered to be 200 liters per day per person, however, it is important to know that this figure is relevant for permanent residence. When visiting the dacha periodically, it is less, and water is not consumed every day.

In a house with permanent residence for a family of 3 people you need a pit of at least 1 cubic meter. Sometimes it is more convenient to use two small ones than one spacious hole. The layout of a cesspool in a private house must take into account the required distances from significant objects - at least 30 m from the fence site drinking water, at least 3 m from garden and garden plants and 5 m from the road. In this case, storage models should be positioned so that a sewage disposal truck can easily drive up to it.

Sump pit layout

Cleaning the cesspool

You should be aware that the operation of vacuum cleaners does not guarantee complete cleaning of the tank. It is only possible to pump out liquid, while sediment will remain and accumulate at the bottom. Speaking about how to clean a cesspool in a private house, it should be noted that cleaning can be optimized by using special preparations.

• Bioactive complexes, which are colonies of bacteria, work effectively, eliminate odor and are environmentally friendly. However, at temperatures below +4° C, microorganisms die, so it is impossible to use such products in winter.
• Among chemicals Preferred are nitrate oxidizers, which are non-toxic and do not pose a danger to people, pets and plants. They are usually used in the cold season.

Important: To eliminate odors from the pit, which will occur if special preparations are not used, ventilation of the cesspool in a private house is required. Plastic sewer pipes with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 60 cm, which are installed in the upper part of the pit, are suitable for its installation.

Proper arrangement of a cesspool in a private home will allow you to safely dispose of wastewater with minimal effort and without significant expense. In this case, the container will not be a source of unpleasant odor.

Cesspool in a private house: diagram, do-it-yourself device, video

Cesspool in a private house, diagram, device with filters and storage tanks. Materials, features various designs. Selection of location and volume, cleaning.

Do-it-yourself cesspool - review and comparison of design options

For the citizens, the problems of drainage and disposal of household waste are solved by municipal services, but adherents of free-living country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order the installation of a bulk septic tank or local treatment station on the site, then a summer resident with his own hands can easily build a cesspool from inexpensive or waste materials. It will cope with the important sanitary function perfectly, and will not require the allocation of too much money for arrangement.

The simplest and most cost-effective options

The historical predecessor of this sewerage facility was dug in the ground simplest pit, the walls of which were coated with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers into the ground. Nowadays, such “reservoirs” for collecting and partially filtering wastewater are installed only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

A simple cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site a couple of days a week in summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes completely prohibited by sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanied by the imposition of administrative penalties.

Elementary cesspool: from the simplest boarded container for a toilet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner suburban area I really don’t want to spend money on the structure, and he has a certain amount of worn tires, this material can be put to good use. You just need to lay the tires in the dug pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is located outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire placed on top to connect the sewer pipeline. Afterwards, the pit around the home-made treatment plant is filled with soil, and a concrete slab with a hole for the ventilation pipe and a hatch for pumping is laid on top.

The owner of a N-number of worn-out tires can use them to build an excellent reservoir for collecting waste

Common types of structures

According to characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorption structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more complex in technical aspects installations with forced stimulation of wastewater movement inside and with biological and chemical treatment methods.

Violation of sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of a cesspool is unacceptable

Containers without bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the “people's” cesspool. Their characteristic feature is the absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the wastewater, having undergone purification by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken bricks and other “ingredients”, goes into the soil. The absorption option is considered the most economical; moreover, the construction of a pit of this type can easily be carried out by a contractor who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. Another saving: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, there is much less need to call sewer trucks.

Structural diagram of a cesspool without a bottom - wastewater is filtered through crushed stone

An absorbent type of pit is chosen if there is no need to drain a large amount of wastewater, if country house no jacuzzi, dishwashers or washing machines. The land will not be able to process and accept a large volume. In addition, the cleaning carried out cannot be classified as a 100% effective procedure, which means that wastewater from the absorption pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste water tanks

Their name contains a direct hint indicating the main design feature. Essentially, these are closed containers made of water-tight concrete, brickwork, plastic, and gas silicate blocks that require constant emptying after filling. Sealed structures will ensure the complete absence of odors typical of drains, but will force the owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not suitable for building a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory one in the ground plastic container to collect wastewater, connect a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call sewer trucks to empty it

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank would be to install a store-bought plastic container. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very compelling argument in favor: a plastic structure can be installed regardless of the close level of groundwater. There will be no harm to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with sewage; there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level; if the level exceeds the limit, the container should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are more complex structures that not only perform deep cleaning, but also process wastewater into fertilizer valuable for gardeners. Most often, they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical purification occurs, and in subsequent chambers specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with an overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for economic and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the area. But in order to make a septic tank with an overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The operating principle of a three-chamber septic tank is based on multi-stage wastewater treatment: in the first tank, the collected wastewater is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers finer purification is performed

If you don’t mind the effort, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to a worn-out car tires. In the sense of “bald”, but not worn-out tires. Moreover, the owner will save not only due to waste building material. To install a septic tank made from tires, you do not need a powerful concrete foundation, just a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a thickness of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed.

• To increase the volume of the created reservoir, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
• A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made of tires; its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same size of tires. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of tire rubber.
• The bottom of the pipe is filled with concrete to create a monolithic concrete cylinder.

At the top you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Design of a cesspool with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

• The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands

Let's consider the stages of installation of several design options.

Absorbing

Owners of small country estates who decide to make a basic sewer system with their own hands most often choose this option. Attracts simplest design and the opportunity not to resort to the services of vacuum cleaners too often. The walls can be made of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by placing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of brick, and it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but to install them you will need a crane

1. It is necessary to dig a shaft-type pit, the diameter of which will be approximately 80 cm larger than the diameter of the reinforced concrete ring. You will need 3 rings.
2. Along the perimeter, leaving the central part free, you need to make concrete screed, it will serve as a supporting base for the rings.
3. It is necessary to drill holes in the lower ring every 10 cm so that purified water can penetrate beyond the cesspool. The diameter of the filtration holes is 5 cm.

Important. The depth of the underground structure should not exceed a limit of 3 m, otherwise it will be difficult to remove the dense silty sediment that has settled at the bottom of the pit.

The constructed “well” should be approximately a meter deep with sand, gravel, broken bricks, and crushed stone mixed with soil.

About a meter of the lower part of the absorbing sewer structure must be filled with a “folk” filtering composition: sand, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick, as in the figure

Advice. In order to improve the quality of cleaning, it is recommended to supplement the filter well with a sealed storage tank located slightly above it with an overflow.

Schematic design of a homemade septic tank: from a sealed cleaning container, wastewater is poured into an absorption cesspool, from where purified water penetrates into the filtration field

Sealed

The construction principle is similar, only there is no need to form holes for the infiltration of treated wastewater and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. To prevent the reinforcement from “drowning” in the concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and secured on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. Cheap option For internal insulation- bitumen, the outside of a homemade sewerage facility can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom; the walls can be built from concrete rings, lined with bricks or gas silicate blocks, make a monolithic container, pour concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than installing concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, a concrete screed is arranged, and bricks can be laid either in a circle or by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “mature” before starting masonry, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the masonry period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply sewer pipe. The connection point is located below the freezing level recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of wastewater

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything simpler and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the average consumer in mind. That is, finding the necessary kit is not difficult at all.

1. The first thing is to dig a pit according to the standard pattern for all pits.
2. With his own hands, the owner will need to first make a cushion at the bottom of the shaft from a mixture of concrete and gravel. It should strengthen for a week, during which the original foundation should be lightly “irrigated” with water.
3. Then they order delivery of the kit by car with a manipulator for sequential installation of the bottom, rings, and lid.

A ready-made set of rings and concrete floors for the rapid construction of a cesspool

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of design that meets your needs. Which costs are more important, what is best to save on, is up to the owner and contractor to choose, and knowledge of the design differences will help make the right decision.

How to make a cesspool with your own hands - design options and installation steps

Types and design of cesspools. Do-it-yourself installation and arrangement.

When building a summer house or country cottage, arranging a sewer system is a top priority. A cesspool in a private house is designed according to the standard standards described in SNiP and SanPin.

Cesspools are classified according to the material from which they are made, design and operating principle.

Based on the material, the following types can be distinguished:

By design, cesspools are classified as:

1. Closed. Completely sealed structures. They consist of a closed bottom and strong walls. Such containers are environmentally friendly and suitable for installation in small areas;
2. Open or leaking. According to the rules of Sanitary Control, such a device is allowed only if the total volume of wastewater per day does not exceed 1 cubic meter. These pits have no bottom and some of the waste goes into the soil and groundwater. This allows for cesspool cleaning to be carried out less frequently than with closed tanks, but poses a threat to the environment.

According to the principle of operation, all cesspools are divided into single-chamber, multi-chamber and septic tanks. Single-chamber - standard structures consisting of one compartment. It is both a draft drain and a settling basin. This is the simplest option for installing a drain, but it requires regular cleaning. The wastewater is simply stored in it for a certain period of time until it is cleaned.

Multi-chamber – cesspools consisting of several compartments. Standard scheme is a connection of single-chamber tanks with pipes. Waste from home or other consumer points is dumped into one, and pre-treated waste flows into the second. The wastewater remains in the settling tank for several days, after which it is further purified and discharged outside the site.

Septic tanks are professional multi-chamber devices. They consist of tanks separated by pipes and filters, pumps pumping wastewater at a certain speed and treatment facilities (biological filters). The main advantage of using a septic tank for a cesspool is its efficiency. It is not just a liquid reservoir, but also a purifier. Many owners subsequently use settled water for technical needs.

Calculation of the required volume of the pit and its geometric dimensions

The volume and geometric dimensions of a cesspool in a private house depend on the number of consumers living and connected to the sewer. It is generally believed that 1 adult consumes 0.5 cubic meters of water per day. The child, accordingly, is half as much - 0.25.

The formula used for calculation is:

V*n=Vya, where V is the daily volume consumed by one person, n is the number of residents, and Vya is the required volume of the cesspool. For example, if there are three adults and 1 child living in a house, the formula will look like this:

0.5*3+0.25*1=1.75 m3. The resulting values ​​are always rounded to big side. In our case, this is 2 cubic meters. From the obtained values, the required dimensions are determined.

Rules for choosing the depth and diameter of a pit:

1. The minimum drainage depth must be at least 2 meters. 1 meter is allocated for the release of gases and freezing of the soil;
   2. Maximum depth – no more than 3.5 meters. Most vacuum cleaners are equipped with hoses that are 3 meters long. Exceeding this indicator will significantly complicate the processes of cleaning wastewater from silt and solid accumulations;
2. The width depends on the selected depth and standard sizes materials selected for the construction of the drain.

Location on the site

A closed cesspool is more often used in a private residential house, because it can be placed much closer to the living space than an open one. All requirements for choosing a location are described in detail in “Urban planning. Planning and development of urban and rural settlements”, decree 360-92 (Ukraine) and SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 (Russia).

Primary requirements:

1. The distance from a residential building is at least 20 meters. From non-residential premises a deviation of 15 meters is allowed. It is separately indicated that if the basement exceeds the area of ​​the house, then the countdown begins from the wall of the underground building;
2. You should retreat from a reservoir or well from 30 meters (closed pit) to 50 (open type reservoir);
3. A distance of 2–4 meters is maintained from the road and the fence;
4. According to the rules of good neighborliness, a cesspool must be separated from the neighboring plot by at least 10 meters.

In some cases, it is also indicated that the waste tank must be at least 5 meters away from the garden or garden. It must be remembered that failure to comply with these requirements entails administrative liability.

Installation of a cesspool

The construction of a cesspool is carried out in several stages:

1. Preparing the pit;
2. Tank installation;
3. Connecting sewer pipes;
4. Backfilling the drain.

In the selected location of the site, a place for the future cesspool is planned. The pit is dug using special construction equipment or manually. Its diameter should slightly exceed the dimensions of the tank for arranging a cesspool. This will allow the container to be more thoroughly sealed and insulated.

Regardless of the type of pit construction chosen, the bottom of the pit must be strengthened with crushed stone and sand cushion. The first layer of sifted river sand, after it - fine crushed stone and then - coarse stones. The walls of the pit are covered waterproofing material. In cold regions, textiles or agrofibre are also installed on top of the waterproofing to protect against soil freezing.

For the citizens, the problems of drainage and disposal of household waste are solved by municipal services, but adherents of free-living country life have to think through such pressing issues on their own. If the owner of an estate intended for the residence of a large family most often has to order the installation of a bulk septic tank or local treatment station on the site, then a summer resident can easily build a cesspool with his own hands from inexpensive or waste materials. It will cope with the important sanitary function perfectly, and will not require the allocation of too much money for arrangement.

The simplest and most cost-effective options

The historical predecessor of this sewer facility was a simple hole dug in the ground, the walls of which were coated with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other used containers into the ground. Nowadays, such “reservoirs” for collecting and partially filtering wastewater are installed only if the daily amount does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m.

A simple cesspool for a toilet can satisfy the needs of summer residents who stay on the site a couple of days a week during the summer season. However, its device is not approved, and sometimes completely prohibited by sanitary and epidemiological services, often accompanied by the imposition of administrative penalties.

Elementary cesspool: from the simplest boarded container for a toilet to a tank made of concrete rings

Attention. The depth mark of the bottom should be at least 1 meter higher than the maximum (spring-autumn) groundwater level.

If the owner of a suburban area really doesn’t want to spend money on building a structure, and he has a certain amount of worn-out tires, this material can be put to good use. You just need to lay the tires in the dug pit, fastening them together with bolts. If the pit is located outside the house or toilet, a hole must be cut in the side of the tire placed on top to connect the sewer pipeline. Afterwards, the pit around the home-made treatment plant is filled with soil, and a concrete slab with a hole for the ventilation pipe and a hatch for pumping is laid on top.

The owner of a N-number of worn-out tires can use them to build an excellent reservoir for collecting waste

Common types of structures

According to characteristic design differences, cesspools are divided into absorption structures and sealed containers. The functions of collecting, accumulating and treating wastewater are also performed by septic tanks. They are more technically complex installations with forced stimulation of the movement of wastewater inside and with biological and chemical treatment methods.

Violation of sanitary and epidemiological standards for the location of a cesspool is unacceptable

Containers without bottom - absorbent

Direct descendants of the “people's” cesspool. Their characteristic feature is the absence of a bottom, due to which the liquid component of the wastewater, having undergone purification by coarse filtration through a layer of a mixture of sand, gravel, broken brick and other “ingredients”, passes into the ground. The absorption option is considered the most economical; moreover, the construction of a pit of this type can easily be carried out by a contractor who has absolutely no experience in the field of construction. Another saving: due to the partial infiltration of purified water into the ground, there is much less need to call sewer trucks.

Structural diagram of a cesspool without a bottom - wastewater is filtered through crushed stone

The absorbent type of pit is chosen if there is no need to drain a large amount of wastewater, if the country house does not have a jacuzzi, dishwashers and washing machines. The land will not be able to process and accept a large volume. In addition, the cleaning carried out cannot be classified as a 100% effective procedure, which means that wastewater from the absorption pit will still pollute the environment.

Sealed waste water tanks

Their name contains a direct hint indicating the main design feature. Essentially, these are closed containers made of water-tight concrete, brickwork, plastic, and gas silicate blocks that require constant emptying after filling. Sealed structures will ensure the complete absence of odors typical of wastewater, but will force the owners to regularly call a sewer truck to remove accumulations.

Important. A cinder block is not suitable for building a cesspool; it will collapse too quickly from contact with water.

The easiest way is to buy and bury a factory-made plastic container in the ground to collect wastewater, connect a sewer pipeline to it and periodically call the vacuum cleaners to empty it.

The simplest scheme for constructing a wastewater tank would be to install a store-bought plastic container. It does not need to be sealed, however, it is advisable to fill the bottom of the pit with a kind of cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement. In principle, if the owners are not embarrassed by the unpresentable appearance, then there is no need to bury it in the ground. Another very compelling argument in favor: a plastic structure can be installed regardless of the close level of groundwater. There will be no harm to the environment anyway.

The tank should not be completely filled with sewage; there should be at least one meter between the manhole cover and the liquid level; if the level exceeds the limit, the container should be emptied

The simplest homemade septic tanks

These are more complex structures that not only perform deep cleaning, but also process wastewater into fertilizer valuable for gardeners. Most often, they are a system of two or three chambers, in the first of which only collection and rough mechanical purification occurs, and in subsequent chambers specific bacteria enter the battle, finally processing the polluting inclusions of wastewater.

A cesspool with an overflow purifies water so well that it can be successfully used for economic and technical purposes, for example, for watering or for cleaning the area. But in order to make a septic tank with an overflow, considerable effort will be required.

The operating principle of a three-chamber septic tank is based on multi-stage wastewater treatment: in the first tank, the collected wastewater is subjected to coarse filtration, in the following chambers finer purification is performed

If you don’t mind the effort, but there is no surplus of financial resources, you can again resort to worn-out car tires. In the sense of “bald”, but not worn to holes tires. Moreover, the owner will save money not only through waste building materials. To install a septic tank made from tires, you do not need a powerful concrete foundation, just a compacted cushion of crushed stone with sand with a thickness of 30-40 cm and a ten-centimeter screed.

• To increase the volume of the created reservoir, the sidewalls of the tires must be cut off.
• A concrete pipe is installed vertically in a well made of tires; its diameter should be approximately two times smaller than the same size of tires. The upper cut of the concrete pipe is located 10 cm below the well made of tire rubber.
• The bottom of the pipe is filled with concrete to create a monolithic concrete cylinder.

At the top you will need to make holes for infiltration and for installing pipes that provide overflow.

Design of a cesspool with overflow: the pipe entering the chamber must be located higher than the overflow pipe

• The sewer pipe must be inserted into a concrete container located inside the tires.

Places where sewer pipes enter vertically installed concrete pipes must be sealed.

Let's consider the stages of installation of several design options.

Absorbing

Owners of small country estates who decide to make a basic sewer system with their own hands most often choose this option. The simplest design and the ability to not resort to the services of sewer trucks too often are attractive. The walls can be made of bricks or gas silicate blocks, but it is easier and faster to build them by placing concrete rings on top of each other.

It is much faster to build walls from gas silicate blocks than to lay them out of brick, and it is even faster to make a pit from concrete rings, but to install them you will need a crane

Sealed

The construction principle is similar, only there is no need to form holes for the infiltration of treated wastewater and the bottom must be completely concreted. It is advisable to reinforce the lower concrete platform by laying a concrete mesh on the bottom before pouring. To prevent the reinforcement from “drowning” in the concrete, it must be slightly raised above the surface and secured on pegs.

An important aspect: it is recommended to seal the walls. A cheap option for internal insulation is bitumen; the outside of a homemade sewerage facility can simply be coated with clay. If the walls of the pit were built of brick, they can be plastered.

The standard design of a sealed cesspool with a concrete bottom, the walls can be built from concrete rings, lined with brick or gas silicate blocks, or a monolithic container can be made by pouring concrete into the formwork

Brickwork will take significantly more time than installing concrete rings. At the bottom, by analogy, a concrete screed is arranged, and bricks can be laid either in a circle or by “drawing” a square or rectangle in the perimeter. The poured concrete platform must “mature” before starting masonry, standing for 7-8 days.

Important. During the masonry period, it is necessary to form holes for the supply of sewer pipes. The connection point is located below the freezing level recorded by local weather services.

The sewer pipeline to the waste collection point should be slightly inclined to ensure spontaneous movement of the contaminated mass.

The pipe introducing wastewater into the pit must be located below the freezing level, the pipeline must be laid at an angle to ensure spontaneous movement of wastewater

Installation of ready-made complexes

It is impossible to think of anything simpler and more convenient than their use; the arrangement of a cesspool from precisely sized components is carried out extremely quickly. The only drawback: the volume parameters specified by the manufacturer. But they produce a factory product mainly with the average consumer in mind. That is, finding the necessary kit is not difficult at all.

There are many ways and methods to make a cesspool. From the variety of options, it remains to choose the optimal type of design that meets your needs. Which costs are more important, what is best to save on, is up to the owner and contractor to choose, and knowledge of the design differences will help make the right decision.

Why is it that in dachas where there is no centralized sewage system, they often use the most primitive type of toilet - with a bucket? Not at all out of a desire to get as much compost as possible over the summer, but because of basic ignorance of how to properly arrange a cesspool. Many simply do not want to deal with calling a sewer man, believing that they will incur the wrath of the management of the dacha cooperative. In fact, such a truck is no more than a truck crane, dump truck or concrete mixer, which are allowed to enter gardening areas: otherwise you won’t be able to build a house. And with a properly planned cesspool, you won’t often have to call sewage disposal equipment. With these arguments, it is easy to solve once and for all the organizational problem of building a cesspool.

There is another obstacle to the construction of a basic sewerage system - the fear of disturbing sanitary standards, which will lead to contamination of the area with putrefactive bacteria. In everyday life, people are afraid of getting a source of stench close to summer house, therefore they prefer to install a “green house” away from housing. But with a modest size summer cottages the toilet may be right under the neighbors' windows. At a private house personal plot It turns out to be larger in area, and the owner has more freedom of action. However, even here there may be a fear of building “such a complex” structure incorrectly, which will lead to disastrous consequences. However, for a sewer system such as a cesspool in a private house, the scheme is quite simple. And it depends to a large extent on the nature of the soil.

What mistakes happen when building cesspools?

A cesspool is a source of unpleasant odor, which appears as a result of the accumulation of sewage, and is also a breeding ground for germs and bacteria. It is necessary to correctly calculate the location of the well, as well as carry out its maintenance in a timely manner.

Indeed, mistakes when arranging a cesspool can lead to undesirable consequences, among which “amber” on the site is the least evil. It’s easy to deal with: the pit needs to be closed. It is this step that will allow it to be done even close to the house, but at such a distance as to ensure access for a sewage truck. At the same time, you need to build a real sewer system in the house, like in a city apartment. And to prevent bad odors from spreading from plumbing fixtures, do not forget about water seals. This is the second most common mistake when installing a sewer system in private homes: the owners understand perfectly well that the toilet must have such a valve - it is built into the design of the device - but they forget that the drainage holes of the bathtub, sink, sink and shower go into the same cesspool, and they don’t make siphons.

In a private house or country house, where the sewer system is installed by the owner himself, there is a temptation to install drain holes on the floor of the bathrooms in order to protect yourself from a hypothetical flood associated with faulty faucets or pipes. But such a hole must also contain an overflow that provides a water seal. You need to make sure that the water in it does not stagnate and at the same time does not dry out. Then foreign odors will not appear.

Another mistake is the incorrect choice of depth for laying the drain pipe. You first need to find out what the level of soil freezing is, and then just plan the location of the sewer pipe at the exit from the building. Under no circumstances should the drain freeze if the house is used, even temporarily, during the winter.

Important! Do not forget that the sewer beds should not be strictly horizontal, but have a slope of at least two to three degrees per meter, otherwise there will be no natural outflow of water from the house into the cesspool.

It is important not to make a mistake with the size of the cesspool, so as not to constantly be afraid that it is about to overflow. In this case, it is advisable to calculate the volume not for the entire structure, but for that part of it that is located below the drain pipe. This volume is calculated based on the needs of the family.

You cannot build a cesspool diagram by copying it from another site, because both the soil and the soil may be different. When building a structure, you need to use the data of your site:

• geodetic;
• soil science;
• soil samples;
• depth of aquifers.

Why is a closed cesspool an incomplete cycle treatment facility?

A cesspool is a kind of septic tank that processes incoming water, but does not provide complete purification.

A closed cesspool is not just a septic tank for liquid waste vital activity: the contents are processed in it by anaerobic bacteria, with the exception, perhaps, of the layer that is in direct contact with the air. Anaerobic bacteria are known to perform the initial stage of converting wastewater into cleaner water. After fermentation with their participation, the water does not lose, but changes its smell - to a marshy one. The water does not become clear from this purification: the turbidity remains at this stage. Also, solid particles of mechanical suspension can settle in the pit, and if there is a desire to separate them to produce compost, then you can build a chamber with an overflow from the sump into the septic tank. Naturally, such a septic tank provides far from complete water purification, and they are also subject to disposal by a sewage disposal machine. The design of such a cesspool will be much more complicated, since it is, in fact, the simplest.

Let's return to soil research. If you find that the groundwater in your area is deep, you can turn the cesspool into filtration well. This scheme is called cesspool without bottom. You can indirectly determine whether the water lies deep by this criterion: if most neighbors have dug wells rather than boreholes, it means that shallow aquifers have been found on their property. If everyone uses wells exclusively, then you need to ask how deep they are. But for a final decision, it is necessary to verify this with the help of hydrological studies. If it is not possible to carry them out, then it is better to choose a sealed cesspool scheme, since it is universal.

Cesspool in a private house. Scheme without bottom

Such a pit actually has a bottom, but it is not airtight. With this scheme, nature itself is given the opportunity to purify wastewater, much like what happens with rainwater in nature. It must be remembered that the contents of sewage drains are often a more aggressive environment than rainwater. They may contain not only soap, but also more caustic detergents, and the soil must completely recycle them before they reach the aquifer. To do this, it is necessary that it be at a depth of more than 2.5 meters. The nature of the soil also matters: it should be sandy loam or sandy type.

The figure shows a diagram of a cesspool without a bottom; this design assumes that there is no concrete base at the bottom of the pit, and filtration occurs in a natural way using natural soil.

“Entrusting” the soil with filtration is short-sighted, so the bottom needs to be covered with a cushion of fine crushed stone and sand. No more than a cubic meter of liquid should pass through such a “sieve” per day. It is always better to reinforce this permeable bottom with geotextiles. It will prevent the sand from moving, seeping between larger soil particles. If the filter is made of backfill of different fractions, it is better to layer them with water-permeable geomaterials.

Not only the shallow groundwater level, but also the large volume of discharges from the house, as well as the clayey nature of the soil, speak against the construction of such a structure. In this situation, you should build a sealed pit. As for the walls and top, these structures can be the same for pits with different types of bottom, so you can move on to studying a sealed structure.

Scheme of a sealed cesspool

If it is impossible to use a ready-made one, since a significant size of the pit is needed, you can build it yourself. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of drains (below the pipe!) and calculate the diameter of the structure. The volume is calculated based on half a cubic meter per person. But this is only the minimum, so you need to make a reserve due to the following situations:

• there may be guests in the house;
• it is impossible to ensure a timely call for a vacuum cleaner;
• a pipe breaks, which further loads the sewer system;
• it is planned to connect new appliances that require drainage: washing or dishwasher, shower cabin, etc.

This is why reserve volume is desirable. Once it is known, you need to choose the material for the walls. It can be brick or concrete - in the form of well rings. But whatever the material, the elements must be connected with a waterproof solution in order to avoid the penetration of the contents of the pit into the ground and soil, as well as melt water into the pit, which would significantly reduce its resource. The bottom of such a pit is best made of concrete, for which you can use a specialized reinforced concrete product - the bottom of the well. It has the same diameter as well rings, but it can also be used as a bottom for a brick structure.

A sealed cesspool is a structure, usually presented in the form of a container made of concrete structures(bottom, rings, top, hatch)

For reliable waterproofing of the structure, you can use special geomembranes, which are used in the construction of building plinths. This material is easily butt-joined, but this does not mean that it does not need to be welded. The sheets connected not only by overlapping, but also by welding will provide excellent insulation from moisture from the outside. The inside of the container can be covered with waterproof cement, which was also used in the seams between rings or bricks.

How to make the top of a closed cesspool

Open cesspools carry a potential danger - the possibility of falling through, so you need to make the top of a closed pit strong, and not make do with lightweight covers. This also applies to the hatch through which cleaning will be carried out. The upper part of the structure is ideally reinforced concrete slab. The industry produces such an element for well rings. It has a hole for a standard sewer hatch, which it is advisable to install, but only choose its modification made of durable plastic. Such a lid will be easy to open, but at the same time it will not fall through, even if children play on it. Plastic lids are available in a version with a lock, which guarantees safety for children: they will never open this hatch.

If top part is built from concrete slab and the hatch is made independently, then it is necessary to ensure that the lid fits tightly and is so heavy that only an adult can open it.

It is desirable that the top slab be covered with soil and soil, while the hatch itself protrudes outward. If the house is used during the snowy period, then it is necessary to provide a small height of the hatch above ground level to make it easier to find and dig out in the snow.

The image shows a diagram of creating a cesspool: preparing the pit - reinforcement - construction for formwork - erecting walls and laying pipes, creating the upper part and ventilation outlet.

To go down into the pit and clean it after pumping out sewage, the hatch must be made so that an adult can crawl into it.

How to calculate a place for a cesspool?

You can also determine the location for the structure next to the house, because it is hermetically sealed at the top. In this case, the length of the sewer pipes will be minimal. But you need to be as far away from water wells – yours and your neighbors’ – as possible. The structure should not be located near bodies of water. If the soil is clayey, then you need to retreat 20 meters from all named water sources. When it is sandy or sandy loam, it is better to retreat 50 meters, because such soil has the property of osmosis, that is, like a wick, it draws liquids into itself. For loamy soils, the distance can be reduced to 30 m.

The bottom of the pit should not be lower than 1 m to groundwater. It is better to make the area of ​​this tank larger than to deepen it too much, risking either contamination from a hole without a bottom, or the floating of a sealed container. There is always some amount of air in it, so in thawed groundwater it will work like a float. If not found concrete ring calculated diameter, the pit can be made square or rectangular by placing a slab of waterproof reinforced concrete at the base.

Scheme correct location cesspool on the site, calculation of distance from water sources and residential premises.

You need to step back at least a meter from the fence, and from the road - just like from reservoirs. Any road has modified soil underneath. It can be compacted, replaced with a sand and crushed stone cushion, therefore, how it will behave in the vicinity of a cesspool is not known in advance.

Little tricks from the experts

If you have determined a place for a cesspool that is equidistant from all sources of water, roads, and reservoirs, then it is not a fact that you will be able to lay the pipe at the desired slope and at the same time manage to place it completely below the freezing depth of the soil. There is a way out of this situation: you need to insulate the pipe so that the water in it does not freeze. It is better to do insulation along the entire length of the pipe before it enters the container, so as not to get a “cold bridge”.

Plumber,

Ravil Rakhmatullin.

If you are building a cesspool without a bottom, then it is better to stock up on material and take the time to make it from two overflow wells. The first of them will be sealed, the second – filtration. This will produce fertile sludge that can be disposed of separately, and the risk of groundwater contamination will be much lower. It is important that the pipe between these containers must also be inclined, if they are not located next to each other, since in this case gravity flow must be ensured.

Builder,

Leonid Knyazhinov.

Copy location sewerage structures there is no need even for the nearest neighbor. The condition of the soil and ground, even in adjacent areas, may be different. Your neighbor has everything clean, solid soil, but you have a whole underground river or stream running through it. You also need to pay special attention to areas on slopes, because there it may happen that on one side the hole will be below the soil freezing level, and on the other - above, and if an entry is made into it from this side, it is better to insulate it.

Sergey Dlinnov.

When a sewer pipe passes through walls - in the foundation and cesspool, it is better to lay sleeves from pipes of larger diameter, and then pass the main one into them. drain pipe. Then even small tectonic movements will not be scary for you.

Builder,

Boris Burdyukevich

How to draw a diagram of a cesspool?

To summarize, we outline all the parameters that must be taken into account in the cesspool diagram:

Its design;
depth of groundwater;
soil and soil composition;
soil freezing depth;
site topology;
location of all sources of drinking water, roads and reservoirs;

The choice of materials is also important - plastic, brick, concrete. Creating a diagram, and based on it - drawings of a future building, is not a difficult task. And if you have construction skills, then building such a structure yourself is quite possible. If you take into account all the details, then no one will suffer from your well or septic tank: neither you nor your neighbors. If you choose closed type cesspool - this will be the safest and cheapest sewage system to install for a country house.