How to make roof drainage with your own hands. How to make gutters with your own hands: technical nuances and installation specifics. Video: example of installation of a finished GAMRAT drainage system
The gutter helps protect the roof and walls of the house from excess moisture. Nowadays it’s easy to purchase your favorite drainage system in a store. Famous brands offer protection from moisture, and specialized companies offer installation guarantees.
The costs for this are considerable, the amount comes out to be large. You can purchase a drainage system in a store and save on installation. Better yet, make such a device yourself with a little effort and knowledge.
Materials for homemade gutters:
- plastic bottles;
- sewerage pipes;
- tree;
- galvanized metal sheets;
- copper metal sheets;
- profiles for drywall;
- ceramic drainage.
Sewer pipes are suitable for their price, strength, weight and the availability of various adapters.
Important! Not all types of sewer pipes are suitable for outdoor use.
- Gray pipes, are afraid of severe frosts.
- Brown pipes, the strongest, patient with loads and severe frosts. Under the influence of prolonged sun rays ultraviolet radiation destroys and the surface begins to crack.
- White pipes, used for home installation work.
Therefore, you should choose pipes for drains according to the weather conditions in your region.
After determining the material for draining, consumables are calculated.
Different pipe diameters are suitable for different roof slope areas:
- S< 50 кв. м – трубы диаметром 8 см;
- S< 125кв. м – трубы диаметром 9 см;
- S > 125 sq. m – pipes with a diameter of 10 cm.
For the drainage diagram you need to know some parameters:
- roof perimeter;
- length and number of gutters, drains;
- places of joints and fastenings.
The perimeter of the roof divided by 2 is the length of the gutters. The pipes will be sawn in half. For example, the roof perimeter is 60 m, you need to buy 30 m of sewer pipe for the gutters.
Drainage risers along the entire perimeter are located at a distance of 5 m. Their length is equal to the distance from the eaves to the ground. By multiplying the number of risers by the length of the risers, we get the number of parts for the gutters.
Parts required for construction:
- drain pipes;
- brackets (18 pcs per 10 m);
- bends and funnels (how many drains);
- plugs;
- angles (depending on the angle of fall of water from the roof);
- connecting for gutters;
- knee;
- adapters.
Required tools:
- screwdriver and screws;
- screwdriver, hacksaw;
- grinder, electric jigsaw;
- tape measure, rope, level.
For ease of installation you need scaffolding or goats.
After purchasing the materials it starts preparatory stage. Pipes prepared for gutters must be cut into 2 parts. To do this you will need a grinder, a jigsaw or a hacksaw.
Attention! Do not cut the parts of the gutter entering the tee!
Installation
The gutter slopes towards the drain. The brackets are attached at a distance of half a meter from each other. The gutters are fastened under a level and with a tensioned thread. 
The joints between the individual parts are sealed with sealant or placed on clips. The next stage is the installation of drain pipes, the joints are coated with sealant.
From plastic bottles
Lightweight and cheap material- it's plastic. Having enough plastic bottles you can make a drain out of them. Dark beer or kvass bottles are suitable for this so that debris is not visible. 
As in the first case, we draw a diagram of the future drain. Find the perimeter of the roof and calculate the number of bottles. From 1 bottle there will be 2 halves of 12-15 cm each.
We cut off the bottom and neck of the bottle, cut the remaining part in half and model the gutter using a stapler.
Overlap the bottles by 2 cm. The gutter is attached to the roof using a screwdriver and wire. 
Drainage is made from cut, but not sawn, parts, inserting one into the other. The funnel is made from a bottle with the bottom cut off and inserted into the drain. Drainage pipe can be placed in a container or brought to the ground.
Made from galvanized steel
Galvanized steel is considered a durable metal that is resistant to rust, frost and ultraviolet radiation. The only problem - Due to temperature changes, fastening seams diverge.
First you need to prepare galvanized sheets. The workpiece is cut with metal scissors, adding 1.5 cm to the folds in width.
This material can be easily reshaped. For folds, it is enough to attach a ruler or a piece of timber to the sheet and beat it with a hammer. To top it off round shape the pipe or log is wrapped in a sheet and passed with a hammer or mallet.
The finished structure is attached to brackets. The gutters are overlapped by 10 cm. Funnels are made using scissors, bending the metal according to your ideas. The pipes are fastened with clamps.
Pipe making
To begin with, you should design the funnel and make a rough drawing on a sheet of paper. Then you should start transferring the drawing onto the sheet metal.
A straight line is drawn from the edges with an indent of 0.5 cm from the edge and 1 cm from the other. Having cut out the part, bend the drawn edges at a right angle, an indent of 1 cm, and the other at an acute angle.
When folding the workpiece, the edges of the corners should fit into each other. Use a hammer to add tenacity to the pipe seam. Having special machines for bending metal, the process will take less time.
Funnel
The funnel consists of two different parts. Its diameter should be equal to the diameter of the pipe. The parts of the funnel are drawn separately on a sheet of tin. After cutting with scissors, as in making pipes, leave 1.5 cm from the edge for joining. They should connect outwards.
Funnels at home are difficult to make for a beginner, so if it doesn’t work out, you can buy ready-made ones in the store. It won't hurt your pocket that much.
Brackets
Brackets help support gutters. You can make this important hook-shaped item yourself. It is better to take material of the same width so that the brackets are identical.
To do this, you need steel with a thickness of more than 2 mm, this will allow you to hold the weight. Stripes for electrical installation work ideal for blanks. Dimensions: 40 cm by 2 cm. The workpiece is bent using a pipe and nails driven into wood using a lever.
After manufacturing, two holes are drilled for fastening. Painted brackets, thus protected from rust, last much longer.
Painted metal is protected from rust and corrosion. This means that the service life of the product made from it increases.
For a temporary structure, the brackets are made of wood. Cutting indentations for the gutter in a piece of timber. Some nail them to the rafters on the roof.
From metal profiles for plasterboard
The lightweight and durable metal profile is perfect for draining water. We find required quantity material based on the perimeter of the roof of the house. 
Profiles around the entire perimeter of the house can be attached to:
- brackets;
- wire;
- bars.
To protect against water pouring out of the gutters, it is cut into 2 parts, the end is left above the funnel and bent to make a semicircle barrier at the corner. Drain pipes and the funnel will have to be made from other materials.
Made of wood
Having a dacha or Vacation home easy to find this material. For temporary use for a short period, a couple of hours is enough.
Temporary drainage is made from 150x10mm boards. The length of the boards is equal to double the perimeter. For example, the perimeter of the roof overhang is 100 m, which means the sum of the lengths of the boards should be 200 m.
The boards are nailed together at right angles. The resulting corners are overlapped, resulting in long gutters. For temporary construction, temporary hooks are made from boards and iron. Gutters are attached to the resulting brackets.
The bracket can be made of wood. From wooden beam cut out a triangle with a fit for the gutters. The brackets are nailed or wired to the roof. When installing, the edges of the perpendicular gutters must overlap.
Having adjusted the slope of the gutter, we proceed to the drain. It can be made from pieces of tin or by making another trench that reaches to the ground.
The main task of such a drain is to drain water from the foundation of the house. Next, you can dig a groove to drain the water or take it under a tree. The water should move away from the house by about 1.5 - 2 m.
A temporary gutter looks a little silly, but it can last for over a year.
Until the owners save money or come up with another option. To protect wood from moisture, you can use plastic film secured with tape, a furniture stapler or small nails.
There is another option for making a gutter. Dissolving a small log into 2 parts. Using a chisel, cutting out an oval, you get an excellent gutter. The method of attaching to the roof remains the same.
Tips for using the system:
- Protective nets are installed to get rid of fallen leaves and debris. It's easy to make yourself. To do this, you need a fine mesh, which is cut into strips 6 cm wider than the width of the gutter (3 cm more on each side). You can attach it using clamps or wire.
- Cleaning the drainage system from dirt and debris will prolong its life and protect it from blockages. Clean with a brush or by hand, removing sticks. A clogged drain allows water to leak onto the walls and foundation of your home.
Conclusion
You can make your own drainage system. It is necessary to decide on the material for work, draw a diagram and get to work.
The main thing is to follow safety precautions. These types of gutters will significantly save your budget and allow you to choose exactly the option that is closest to the home owner.
Useful video
How to make a drain from sewer pipes in the video below:
In contact with
Atmospheric water is one of the main causes of early wear and destruction building structures. If you do not protect the house from its harmful effects, the famous source of life will stubbornly “undermine” the foundation and blind area.
Exclude Negative influence maybe a drainage system, the construction of which can be easily handled by a home craftsman. Just first you need to figure out how to install a drain with your own hands so that it serves flawlessly.
Among the functions entrusted to roofing systems are drainage activities. The runoff of precipitation and melt water is facilitated by the slope, which is characteristic not only of slopes, but also. However, the inclined configuration is not able to perform the work of protecting facades and blind areas with foundations. Guttering is required to protect structures below the roof.
Classification by degree of organization
In order for the result of the invested efforts to become a reason for well-founded pride, you need to understand the design subtleties and technological nuances drainage system.
According to the degree of organization, drainage systems are divided into two types:
- Unorganized. According to the unorganized scheme, the flow of precipitation and the results of snow melting occurs freely. Along all areas of slopes, water simply flows onto the blind area, ground or paved path, persistently causing damage to the property that is initially imperceptible.
- Organized. According to the organized scheme, all types of atmospheric water rushing down the slopes are captured by water receiving gutters or funnels. They are then transported through pipelines to points designated for the collection and disposal of stormwater.
Note that the SNiP regulation 06/31/2009 allows the use of an unorganized option in private construction. The regulations allow not to use a drainage system when arranging single- and two-story cottages. True, cornice overhangs are narrower than the full 60 cm, but they are not supposed to be built, but entrance groups and balconies should be equipped with canopies without controversy.
An organized option is required for buildings with a height of three meters or more, but zealous owners do not refuse it when equipping one-story houses and domestic buildings. It's worthwhile if you put in the effort own hands not too expensive, and the benefits from it are quite real and economically tangible.
Organized drainage systems are, in turn, divided into internal and external options. characteristic of flat roofs. External ones are universal, they are successfully involved in the arrangement of almost all types of roofing structures. We will carefully study their design and installation technology.
Design specifics of gutters
All external water drainage systems from roofs of any type and steepness include two main components, these are:
- Water intake devices. These include gutters, trays and funnels designed to directly collect water flowing from slopes.
- Drainpipes. Vertical sections of drainage intended for drainage collected water with its subsequent transfer to the storm sewer or with the discharge of wastewater onto the ground outside the blind area.
In the external drainage family there is also a division into systems with wall-mounted, mounted and remote gutters, but the only difference is in the layout of the water intake device. The one we study is most in demand wall option as the simplest and most practical.
Hook-shaped brackets are used to attach drainage systems to the rafters, sheathing or front board of the roof being constructed. Clamps are used to secure horizontal sections of the drain. Together, a set of basic and fastening parts makes it possible to quickly and easily, like a designer, assemble and install a drain.
The choice of fasteners for fixing gutters depends on the type of construction work (repairs are being carried out or new construction):
- Long metal brackets used when installing a drainage system before laying the covering. They are attached to the laths or rafter legs.
- Short metal brackets are used in the process of carrying out repair work. They are fixed on the front board.
- Plastic hooks are used when carrying out repairs or during new construction, if a plastic drainage system is being laid. Fastening plastic parts is carried out to the frontal board.
The brackets are fixed with anti-corrosion fasteners with wide caps with a diameter of no more than 8 mm. Fastening is carried out using galvanized screws, self-tapping screws with press washers, ordinary roofing screws. The diameter of the working part of the fastener is at least 4.2 mm.
The installation step of the hooks determines the material from which the drain is made. For metal systems it varies from 60 cm to 90 cm, for copper circuits that are sensitive to deformation from 30 to 60 cm. Under plastic gutters, hook holders are installed every 50 - 60 cm.
The drainage system kit can be purchased fully assembled and ready for installation. Its modular elements are produced so that from individual components you can easily build a drain for a roof of any size and configuration with your own hands. Using industrial prototypes as a template, you can make elements from available and available materials, for example, from plastic bottles, roofing sheet or polymer sewer pipes.
Drainpipes and water intake devices come with round, rectangular and combined cross-sections. Rectangular and combined types are distinguished by greater " throughput" This characteristic is not very interesting for private owners, because for the arrangement of cottages, the option with an oval gutter is most often sufficient.
The size of the drainage system depends on the area of the roof being treated:
- If the roof area does not exceed 70 m², then the gutter should be Ø 100 mm, and the Ø of the downpipes 75 mm.
- If the roof area is in the range from 70 m² to 120 m², then a gutter is needed Ø 125 mm, drainpipes Ø 90 mm.
However, when choosing the shape and cross-section of the system, it is not necessary to focus only on technical characteristics, because Gutters play a significant role in exterior design.
Materials used in production
The specific operation of external drains limits the choice of materials suitable for the manufacture of systems. It is clear that they will have to endure all the hardships of direct contact with atmospheric phenomena. This means that the elements of drains must be frost-resistant, “indifferent” to heavy rains, snow deposits and the scorching sun.
The following materials are used in the manufacture of drainpipes, water inlets and gutters:
- Roofing steel. The priority is galvanized options, sheet thickness 0.63 mm or 0.7 mm.
- Corrosion Resistant Roofing Steel. Similar to the previous position, but with a protective and decorative polymer shell. In production, rolled sheet metal with a thickness of 0.6 mm to 0.7 mm is used.
- PVC. Light plastic gutters with a wall thickness of 2.2 mm to 3.3 mm are produced from polyvinyl chloride.
- Aluminum. The systems are made of lightweight durable metal 0.8 mm thick. The decorative and protective functions of aluminum gutters are performed by a polymer shell.
- Copper. An elite material that pleases with a service life of 150 - 200 years, but cools the dust at a respectable price. Wall thickness 0.6 mm.
- Zinc-titanium. A new word in the production of gutters with excellent performance characteristics. The price tag is also unmerciful, but the promised 100 years of trouble-free service make us take a closer look at the specified sales position with interest. The thickness of the material used in the manufacture is 0.7 - 0.8 mm.
The choice of a drainage system based on the type of material is focused not only on the personal preferences and financial capabilities of the future owner. To a large extent it depends on the variety roofing covering And architectural features private house.
Expensive copper and zinc-titanium options are appropriate on roofs with ceramic tiles, sheet copper roofing, slate tiles. Budget PVC is in perfect harmony with, steel gutters fit perfectly with metal tiles and corrugated sheets.
By pure economic reasons The most popular gutters are made of galvanized steel and PVC. The first will last 10 years, the second 25 - 35 years, depending on the manufacturer’s assurances. Difficult to select best option in terms of resistance to atmospheric attacks, because their performance characteristics are very similar. However, metal is preferred northern regions, and in the temperate climate zone plastic.
There are no special differences in the design and installation sequence between steel and polymer gutters No. Almost identical gutters, pipes, and funnels are supplemented with specially produced bends, couplings, tees, and plugs.
You only need to take into account the fact of linear expansion that occurs when the systems heat up. Polymer ones can elongate 5 times more than metal ones, the linear movements of which can be completely neglected.
DIY options
The elementary design of a gutter is unlikely to puzzle the home craftsman. Everything is extremely simple: after meticulously executed markings, rolled sheet metal must be cut into strips and bent according to the preferred cross-section configuration. Cutting and bending can be done by hand, but it is wiser to do it on a bending machine.
You'll have to tinker with the pipes. They can consist of several links depending on the height of the pipeline section and the size of the sheet. The algorithm for making your own drainpipes looks like this:
- Open it up. It is carried out with special care and taking into account allowances for roller joints.
- Formation of longitudinal edges. Bends are made along the allowance lines for roller seams.
- Rolling out blanks. It is produced on roller machines or manually using a mandrel: a straight long pipe or bar.
- Roller seam connection. The rolled out blanks are connected according to the markings and pressed onto the previously used mandrel.
- Narrowing of one side of the link. They are narrowed by 5 - 6 mm so that the upper link fits freely into the lower element.
- Formation of stiffening rollers. They are formed along the upper and lower edges of the links by rolling wire. Produced manually or using a zigging machine.
- Assembling a drain riser.
Rolling out metal blanks will require the most effort if done manually. Each of the cut blanks is placed under a mandrel and, grasping the edges, is carefully bent in one place.
Having ensured that a sufficiently curved plane has been formed, the workpiece is moved 20º - 30º relative to the mandrel used. Then they bend it again until it takes the required configuration.
Making a drain from polymer sewer pipes is much simpler. They are produced with a fairly wide range of shaped parts suitable for the construction of full-fledged systems. In fact, home handyman It will be necessary to make only a gutter by dissolving the solid pipe into two symmetrical parts.
Personal assembly and installation
During new construction, the installation of drainage systems is carried out on a fully prepared continuous rough flooring, rafters or firmly fixed sheathing. All work on laying the foundation for laying the roof must be completed by the time the drain is constructed.
When carrying out repair restoration roofing system it is necessary to eliminate defects in advance or completely replace the frontal board.
Design and calculation rules
Before starting work, the drainage route must be thoroughly thought through and a laying diagram must be drawn. Design preparation will help to correctly calculate the consumption of pipes, gutters, the number of funnels and shaped parts. It’s better to try it on the drawing in advance different variants and decide how you can make an impeccable drain with your own hands, so that your own efforts and funds are properly invested.
The configuration of the drainage system in plan depends on the roof structure:
- Gable roofs are equipped with two gutters along each eaves. If the length of the slope is no more than 12 m, one funnel is mounted on the gutter in a corner convenient for installing the drain riser. If more than 12 m, drainage funnels and one compression funnel are installed in both corners in the middle of the slope.
- Single-pitch ones are equipped with one gutter. The number of water intake and compression funnels is calculated according to the standard rules for pitched planes, as in the previous paragraph.
- Four-slope buildings are equipped with gutters around the perimeter. All corners are equipped with water inlet funnels. Long slopes are equipped with compression funnels, which are recommended to be positioned symmetrically relative to each other.
Compression funnels are needed to provide a reserve for linear expansion when the drain heats up. At the same time, they will play the role of a stiffener and prevent the long gutter from sagging.
The calculation of the number of rotating elements and drainpipes is purely individual. It all depends on the area of the roof being installed, the height of the building and the length of the slopes. Eat general rules assembly and installation of gutters, which should be taken into account regardless of the type of structure, system material, roof configuration and dimensions:
- Gutter installation is carried out according to the “top-down” scheme. First, the water intake part is assembled and installed: gutters with funnels, then drain risers.
- Gutters must be installed with a slope in the direction of the water intake funnel. The slope is formed by lowering the system by 2-3 mm per linear meter.
- The roof overhang must cover the gutter by 1/3 of its width, so that during heavy rainfall, drops do not overflow through the water intake device.
- The outer edge of the gutter should be 2 cm below the line that conventionally continues the slope.
- There should be 30 - 70 cm between the outer side of the front board and the edge of the cornice.
If not technical feasibility install the gutter according to the specified distances; the roof must be equipped with snow protection.
When designing, it should be taken into account that fastening the clamps of the drain riser to a wall covered with siding can only be done on the sheathing.
Installation of the polymer version
Do not forget that polymer elements have the property of expanding when heated. Therefore, we retreat 5–10 cm from the edge of the front board on both sides, if the system is linear, and apply compression parts on long slopes and corners.
Let's look at the simplest example of installing a drainage system on one slope with brackets attached to the front board. A gutter will be laid along the eaves overhang, ending in a corner convenient for collecting water with a water intake funnel with a riser attached to it.
The actions of an independent installer will proceed according to the following scheme:
- Marking the frontal board. Mark the attachment point of the outer bracket under the gutter. Do not forget that it should be 3×N mm higher than the opposite point where the funnel will be located (N is the distance between the fastening points in m). We mark the point of the central axis of the funnel according to the calculations.
- We install the outer bracket and funnel according to the markings. It is better to buy a funnel with a plug located on the required side of the water collector.
- We stretch the twine between the established extreme points of the system. It will indicate the installation line for the intermediate brackets. The bracket closest to the funnel must be removed from it at the distance specified by the manufacturer (5 - 10 cm). According to the markings, we install intermediate brackets.
- We install the gutter. Its elements are inserted into the far edge of the hooks and snap into place. Factory-fabricated parts have assembly direction markings, limiting edges, and alignment marks. temperature conditions, indicating in what position the parts should be connected at specific degrees. We work according to the manufacturer's instructions.
- We equip the edge of the gutter with a plug. If you bought a funnel without a plug, then that too.
The assembly of the drainage riser is usually carried out after laying the roofing. The process can be roughly divided into three stages: construction of the transition to the riser, installation of the riser itself and connection of the outlet.
Final stages The drainage system is assembled as follows:
- We put the adapter elbow on the funnel pipe. It should go all the way. To go into the drainage pipe, you will need two elbows with an equal angle. Transition elbows are released at 67º or 45º.
- We apply the second elbow to the wall at an equal angle. We measure the distance between them and cut the pipe to the resulting size. We cut with a hacksaw for metal, clean the cut from burrs.
- We assemble the transition and secure the lower elbow with a clamp.
- On the facade, strictly under the funnel, we mark and fix the clamps for the drain riser. The standard distance between clamps is 1.5 m, maximum 1.7. But it should be so that there is at least one clamp for each section of pipe.
- We mark a point for attaching the drain, the lower edge of which should be 25–40 cm above the ground surface.
- We fix the clamps and assemble the drainage pipeline. The clamps should not be tightened all the way in order to leave the drainage system the opportunity to move slightly during linear expansion.
If couplings were used in the installation, the places where they are attached must be marked in order to secure additional clamps at the marked points. Do not forget that the drainage riser must be perfectly vertical, so markings along the facade are carried out using a plumb line.
Upon completion of the assembly and installation work, means of protecting it from clogging are installed. It is advisable to equip the gutter with a grid to prevent clogging from the penetration of debris and leaves. If the drainage system is too light or there is no suitable grate on sale, a mesh that looks like an inverted basket is placed over the funnel.
Video to help self-installers
Instructions for installing a plastic drainage system:
Specifics of assembly and installation of metal drainage:
Detailed demonstration of making a drain from sewer pipes:
You can handle the installation, assembly, and even manufacturing of the drainage system yourself. The main thing is to adhere to technological rules and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
One of the important parts when building a house is drainage. It performs 3 functions:
- Moisture protection. Due to a properly equipped roof drain with your own hands, precipitation does not flow down the walls onto the blind area, steps and foundation. Protective function is the main criterion for a properly installed drain, because before its invention the entire base could collapse in just 8 years after construction.
- Decorative function. There will be no stains left on the walls; here the decorative function intersects with the protective one, because moisture destroys walls no worse than the foundation. The beautifully executed roof drains themselves also give the overall picture of the house a complete look.
- Water collection. Particularly significant for people involved in gardening is that drainage helps collect moisture from precipitation. When finalizing, you can make a tap into a barrel or other container in the immediate vicinity of the garden itself.
In this article
Preparatory work
Material calculation
2 main groups of material for any similar design- These are metals and polymers.
Metal structures are more expensive, but stronger than plastic ones. In addition, you need to choose a corrosion-resistant material. If desired, any composition can be treated with a stainless steel, and then covered with decorative coating, if necessary.
A metal drain can be copper, aluminum, or galvanized steel (made from sheets 1mm thick). Each type has its own advantage. So, a copper drain does not need additional processing, is the highest quality and most durable, but aluminum will be the lightest, and steel will be the cheapest.
Plastic elements will cost even less than any metal, but they have a significant drawback: when the temperature reaches -10 o C, the plastic becomes fragile.
Drawing up a drainage system. System elements
Before installing and assembling the roof drainage system, it is necessary to determine the number and placement of its elements:
Installation recommendations
During the work you should pay attention to some things:
- Use cold welding and rubber seals. For a clearer joint and reliable sealing, these materials are best suited.
- Keep the slope towards the funnel. Even when installing a metal system, some deflections are formed that occur under prolonged exposure natural conditions. Changing the slope of the gutter to the funnel side will eliminate the possibility of accumulation of excess liquid.
- Allow a minimum gap between the gutter and the wall. If the distance between the drain and the wall is more than 50 mm, moisture leaks onto the wall. To avoid this, the fit of the gutter to the roof canopy should be as tight as possible.
Tool preparation
For normal operation without interruptions and attempts to adapt available tools, you will need:
- Roulette
- Screwdriver/screwdriver and set of screws
- Bulgarian saw
- Thread or marking cord
- Plumb, level
- Marker
- Silicone sealant and rubber seals (or cold welding)
- Stepladder, ladder, or scaffolding
- Sandpaper
Pipe installation
Brackets with fastenings
What the system rests on is established first. It would be great if the diagram of the fastenings and the entire drain was previously drawn on paper. To begin with, markings are made taking into account the current slope of the roof. At this point, you need to calculate the degree of inclination of the gutter and mark the start/end points on the eaves. Now everything is connected along the line and the remaining fasteners are installed. 
When using metal in the design of gutters, the brackets are spaced in increments of 1 meter, but if plastic roof drains are chosen - 60-80 cm.
Gutters
The gutters are secured to the brackets using self-tapping screws. Also, to eliminate the possibility of the drain twisting due to sunlight, there are additional holders on the mounts. If they are absent, you can solve the problem with several self-tapping screws or plugs. 
Installation of gutters is carried out on the roof or the edge of the rafter system. It is best to install a drainage system before covering the roof with roofing material; if this is not possible, the first option is used. To make it easier to catch the flow of water, when installing gutters, an indent of 1/3 from the pipe cross-section is added. This allows more of the gutter to protrude.
Each meter of length of the drainage system must have its own slope. In general, it is 3-4 mm to ensure an unobstructed flow path for water into the funnel.
To prevent the structure from being torn down by snow or ice, an indentation must be maintained. It is 30mm from the edge of the roof to the top of the gutter.
Pipes
After fixing the main drain elements, vertical pipes are installed. This leaves a gap between the pipe itself and the funnel, which can be filled using a fastener from the elbow fitting to the pipe location. This creates a smooth transition and aesthetic appearance of the structure.
To prevent water seepage, you need to secure the elements tightly. Rubber bands, sealing glue, or cold welding are suitable if the system is planned to be made of steel elements. In this case, the rubber band has the advantage of providing mobility to the system due to the thermal gap.
Yoke
To place them evenly, you can mark several lines along the line using a plumb line: 2 clamps are used per meter of pipe. On average, 2-3 holders are needed per wall with an additional mount in the middle. 
Guide elbow
It is mounted at the end of the pipe in order to eliminate splashing, as well as adjust the desired direction. Ideal option there will be a projection about 25-35 centimeters from the wall.
Leaf Trap
If there are trees near the house, the leaves of which fall on the roof during the season, then for convenience you can make protection from them. It can serve as a simple construction lattice. When bent, it should form a convexity 1/2 above the level of the gutter, easily fitting into it.
Drainage routes
The drainage system has been installed, all that remains is to decide how to most profitably use the collected water.
Conclusion
Upon completion of all work and setting up the final water drainage, it would be a good idea to invite a specialist. Perhaps some acquaintance who will see from the outside what you did not see. Assessment of outsiders is needed to eliminate undetected deficiencies in order to avoid their development in the future.
Once you are convinced of its reliability, you must not forget about caring for the elements. If the structure is made of metal, check and renew the anti-corrosion coating approximately once a year. It is not difficult and thanks to such care, the drain will last a long time.
Roof gutters metal installation with their own hands, which every homeowner should be able to produce, are most often purchased ready-made. Due to the fact that specialized stores currently offer a fairly wide range of products from different manufacturers, problems with selecting the most suitable option for a particular case, as a rule, do not arise.
However, the purchase of a drainage structure should be approached very seriously, since it should be chosen not only according to appearance, including color scheme, but also in terms of the level of complexity of the assembly. The system should be as simple and understandable as possible, especially in cases where the work will be done independently. The assembly diagram of the system components is supplied by the manufacturer with the drain kits, so before purchasing the product, you must request it from the seller and carefully study the instructions. If everything in the assembly manual is clear and understandable, and the appearance of the structure fits perfectly with a specific facade, then in this case the kit can be purchased.
Functions of drainage systems
Drainage systems for the roof of a house are an obligatory component of the roof lining, and their installation should never be postponed “for later.” The walls of a house whose roof is not equipped with a properly installed roof will lose their respectable appearance within the first year of operation. Atmospheric precipitation falling on the finishing materials of the walls can negate all the efforts expended on the design of the facade. Moreover, not only water from the roof will fall onto the surface, but also all the dust and dirt that has accumulated on the roof during the absence of rain and is washed away by water flows.
Moisture, especially during the period of prolonged autumn rains, when the walls do not have time to dry out, will negatively affect any finishing materials, and may also penetrate through them into the walls, which can lead to the appearance of mold and dampness. living rooms at home, in basements and basements.
In addition, water flowing from the roof inevitably penetrates into the structure, which, if overmoistened, may well lose its design strength, which leads to the onset of erosion processes, the appearance of cracks and further destruction.
Therefore, in order to avoid these numerous problems and extra costs, you should not skimp on a high-quality roof water drainage system. Moreover, it is better to purchase a drainage system that includes not only an above-ground, but also an underground part that drains water into drainage channels or into the storm sewer system.
The water entering the pipes or gutters of storm sewers can be directed towards the garden or garden, collecting it in storage collectors and usefully using it for watering plants. Thus, two problems are solved at once - preserving the walls from moisture and having a replenished supply of water for irrigation needs.
The conclusion is obvious: the importance of the correct choice of a drainage system and its high-quality installation for reliable drainage of water from residential and commercial buildings cannot be overestimated.
We never forget about the storm sewer and drainage system!
Gutters on the roof of a house usually become an integral part common system drainage of excess water on the site. Special publications on our portal tell in detail about self-creation and about the correct organization.
Types of drainage systems
All drainage systems can be divided into several types according to the material and method of their manufacture. In addition, kits from different manufacturers may differ in parts and assembly and fastening techniques. To understand the possible differences, it is worth considering them in more detail.
All sets of drainage systems can be divided into those that are made independently, and those that are produced in industrial conditions on specialized equipment. To find out which of them are more practical, let's try to identify all their advantages and disadvantages.
Homemade gutters
Installation of a metal drainage system
Now, having understood the nuances associated with the design of the drainage system, we can move on to a detailed consideration of the installation work.
First of all, you need to decide on the tools that will be required for installation. Here you can notice that if you purchase quality system factory-made, the manufacturer includes some accessories for installation work in the kit.
So, it is necessary to have the following tools and materials at hand:
- Hacksaw for metal.
- Pliers for bending brackets.
- Building level.
- Plumb line with a long cord.
- Silicone Grease.
- Adjustable pliers.
- Marker.
An example of installing a metal drain "Galeco" - step by step
Having prepared everything you need, you can begin installing the drainage system. An example of installation work with a set of factory-produced parts (Galeco, a well-known company in this field) is shown in the table below.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operations performed |
|---|---|
 | Installation of this system is carried out before laying the roofing material. In this case, the brackets are fixed to the cornice board connecting the rafter legs. The first step is to mark the location of the brackets and funnels for the drainpipes. As mentioned above, the brackets are placed with an optimal pitch of 600 mm. |
 | The first bracket is mounted with a distance of 100÷150 mm from the edge of the cornice board. It is important to immediately determine the location of the funnel, since additional brackets must be secured on each side, at a distance of 150 mm. |
 | In addition, it is necessary to immediately determine the location of the junction of the two gutter elements, since in this area additional holders will also be required, which are installed at the same distance from the connecting parts as in the case of installing funnels. |
 | Next, the slope angle (a) of the slope is determined, focusing on which the bracket leg is bent, since it must fit tightly to the cornice board. It is clear that not everyone has the special tool shown in the illustration for these purposes. You can do it simpler - prepare a template in advance with the appropriate angle from the board, and then bend the brackets using it. |
 | The next step, at the beginning and end of the slope, is to attach two brackets to the cornice. Usually, two or three self-tapping screws are sufficient to secure these elements. |
 | When attaching hook holders, it is necessary to take into account the need to position them along a line with a certain slope, since the gutter installed in the brackets must be located at an angle towards the funnel. The slope should be 3 mm for each linear meter of the gutter. |
 | Then, a cord is pulled between the two brackets fixed at the edges - it will be easy to navigate along it, securing the intermediate gutter holders to ensure the required slope. |
 | When securing the brackets, it is necessary to strictly observe the slope specified by the cord and control it using building level. To install it between the brackets, you can additionally use wooden slats, which will create an even and rigid base for the level, which will make measurements more accurate. Work continues until then? until all brackets along the eaves line are installed. |
 | The next step, on top of the fixed brackets on cornice board it is recommended to install metal cornice strip or, as it is often called differently, a dropper. This structural element serves to remove condensation moisture from under the roof into the gutter. After fixing the drip, on top of it, on truss structure a waterproofing membrane is laid on which condensation forms. It, flowing down the waterproofing, will fall onto the eaves strip and then into the gutter. |
 | The gutter is preliminarily laid on the brackets and the exact location where the funnel will be installed is determined on it. Then you need to remove the gutter, lay it on the work table and attach the drainpipe to the marked place. Then the pipe is outlined with a marker. |
 | Next, using a hacksaw for metal, guided by the line drawn with a marker, an opening is cut out for water drainage. The cut is made at an angle, approximately as shown in the illustration. |
 | In the finished cutout of the gutter, bends of two opposite edges must be made. The edges are folded outward using adjustable pliers. The bends will help drain water from the gutter into the funnel. |
 | A funnel is installed under the finished hole and fixed to the gutter using special ears that bend over the edges of the gutter. To perform such bends, the manufacturer has provided a special rod that comes complete with the drainage system. |
 | In factory-made structures, the brackets also have special “ears” that bend at the edge of the gutter, fixing it in a given position. |
 | If the drain is mounted on a building, eaves overhang at which it forms an internal (or external) corner, then it must also be provided in the drainage system. And before proceeding to the installation of two even sections of the gutter, such a corner element is immediately secured to one of them using a connecting fastener. |
 | Joining two drainage elements will not be difficult, since the connecting parts are mounted and secured quite easily. The connector is installed under the edge of the gutter at half its width. |
 | The second section of the gutter is laid on the second half of the connecting piece. The next step is to clamp the protruding parts of the connector, also using adjustable pliers, onto the gutter along the edge located closer to the wall of the building. |
 | On the outside, two gutters are fixed to each other with a special latch provided on the connecting element. It must be remembered that the distance between the gutters should not exceed 2 mm, since, despite the seal on the connector, leakage may still occur at the junction if there is a large gap. |
 | Special plugs are installed along the edges of the gutters, which are also secured with special “ears” that bend over the edges of this drainage tray. |
 | Now you can connect the drain pipe risers to the prepared gutter with funnels installed on it. |
 | If it is necessary to bring the pipe closer to the wall, an elbow is first mounted into the funnel. When it is installed, the distance at which the mounting clamps should be removed from the wall will be determined. To install them, holes for dowels are drilled in the wall. |
 | With a large building height, the distance between the clamp brackets can reach a maximum of 1800 mm, however, as experience shows, the optimal installation step is still 1000 mm. By choosing the latter option, you can be sure of the reliability and strength of the pipes. |
 | When installing wall brackets, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that they can be located at a distance of a maximum of 150 mm from the joint seam of individual pipe sections. |
 | The pipe is secured in the clamps using hardware (in this case, bolts with a head in the form of a loop with an eye) that are screwed into the perforated “ears” of the clamp. To screw in such hardware, the kit includes a special wrench that easily copes with this task. |
 | The presented design of the drainage system provides for the installation of a hidden drainage system, which can be connected to a storm sewer or run away from the house, for example, towards the garden, where a drainage recess or hole is installed. Thus, the drainpipe will connect directly to the rainwater inlet. How storm water inlets and pipes extending from them are installed correctly is described in detail in the article about storm drainage, the link to which has already been given above. |
 | A special panel is mounted on top of the blind area - a rainwater inlet cover with a hole into which the lower edge of the drainpipe will fit. Moreover, markings were prudently made on this panel to make it possible to cut out several pipes different diameters. |
 | Carved by required diameter the part is removed from the panel, and only after that the lower part of the pipe is mounted on the riser. It is, first of all, inserted into the panel hole, and then connected to the upper section of the riser and secured in a clamp. |
 | When completed, at the bottom of the wall, the structure looks as shown in the illustration. By choosing this option for installing a drain, you can avoid the penetration of dampness into the walls of the house, since the bulk of the water falling from the roof slopes will be immediately diverted from the base and foundation of the building. |
 | When the drainage system is installed, they move on to roofing work. As you know, the installation of roofing most often starts from the eaves, so it is necessary to correctly calculate its overlap with the gutter. So, with light rain, water should slowly flow down the roof into the gutter. In case of heavy rain, intense streams of water should not rush through the gutter, flowing off the roof or already entering its channel. Therefore, before carrying out the final fastening of the roofing material, it is advisable to conduct an experiment. To do this, water is poured onto the stuck area of the roof at varying intensities and monitored to see how accurately it falls into the water receiving tray. And the approximate recommended parameters for the location of the roof overhang above the gutter are shown in the illustration. |
 | When finished, the roof with a drainage system installed along the eaves and walls should work as shown in this figure. Arrows marked on the roof show the correct flow of water, and signs located along the gutter demonstrate the direction of flow in the gutter towards the drainage funnel. |
As can be seen from the instructions presented, installing a drainage system is not an overly complicated procedure, and is considered quite accessible for independent execution, without inviting a team of specialists. The main thing in this process– this is the accuracy of calculations and the step-by-step, with strict adherence to all technological operations, installation of all necessary elements designs.
At the end of the publication - another example of installing a drainage system, with detailed explanations and recommendations from the master?
Video: Self-installation of a drainage system
The roof structure is designed in such a way that water falling on it during precipitation flows down as quickly as possible. It slides at high speed from slopes whose steepness is 30 degrees or more. To protect the wall finishing and blind area of the house, the roof overhangs are equipped with a special system that collects and transports water to the storm drain. This article will tell you how to properly equip a drain with your own hands, how to choose a suitable model and calculate required size gutters.
Design
Roof drains are devices necessary for collecting water from roof slopes and delivering it to storm drains. The drainage system consists of a set of pipes. It includes the following elements:
- Gutters. Gutters are semicircular or rectangular halves of pipes. They are installed around the perimeter of the building so that liquid from the slopes does not spoil the wall finishing material, but leaves the blind area of the house in an orderly manner. They are produced in different diameters to suit any slope area and amount of precipitation.
- Drain funnels. Drain funnels are devices that resemble a funnel in appearance. They are mounted on a gutter to redirect liquid to the storm drain.
- Gutters. Vertical pipes that are connected to the gutter through a water intake funnel are called drains. Through them melts and rainwater ends up in the sewer. Usually, when developing a roof drainage scheme, several drains are placed in different places in the house. Gutters are located above the storm drain grate so that water flowing from them does not erode the soil or concrete blind area around the house.
- Brackets. Brackets are the hooks needed for fastening. With their help, drains and gutters are fixed on the walls and eaves of the building. The strength of these elements determines whether the drain will withstand the weight of snow or collapse.
Note! The sizes of products for drainage equipment from different manufacturers differ in size and methods of fastening, so try to choose full set among the products of different companies does not make sense. Remember, the main thing in organizing roof drainage is tightness, which is extremely difficult to achieve when I use different elements.
Metal gutters
Products for external drainage equipment made of metal are very popular. They are made by pressing from zinc alloy steel. As a rule, they have a semicircular shape, in rare cases rectangular. Self-installation Metal gutters are so widespread due to the following qualities:
Important! If you decide to make a roof drain made of metal, be prepared for the fact that the price for these products is higher than for analogues made of polyvinyl chloride. This option is not suitable for roofs whose angles are greater or less than 90 degrees, since steel turning parts are made only with such a bend. Experienced builders they claim that, with significant weight, metal water drainage does not have high tightness, and therefore is an outdated construction solution.
Plastic gutters
To reduce the load on the roof rafter frame, manufacturers have developed additional elements for assembling the drain made of plastic or, as it is correctly called, polyvinyl chloride. It differs from metal models:
Important! If you are going to make a drain out of plastic, keep in mind that this material cannot withstand sudden temperature changes and may burst at the first frost. Plastic models cannot be repaired, so the damaged element will need to be replaced. It must be remembered that the device for draining water from plastic involves the use rubber seal that require periodic replacement.
Principles of element placement
The water flow from the roof is calculated and designed individually, based on the area of the slopes and the average amount of precipitation falling in a given climatic zone. You can correctly make a project and place elements by following the following rules:
- Gutters are installed around the entire perimeter of the building with the exception of the porch. To calculate how many parts will be needed, you need to measure the perimeter of the house, divide by the length of one element and round up to the nearest whole number.
- The gutter is mounted at an angle. In order for water to move by gravity along it towards the drainage funnel, it is given a slope of 3-5%.
- At the corners of the building, rotating elements are placed that rotate the drain 90 degrees. For a rectangular structure, 4 such parts are required. If the house has complex configuration, then internal corners are also needed for installation.
- The required number of funnels for receiving water is calculated based on the fact that it collects liquid from 10 linear meters of the gutter. That is, if the length exceeds 10 meters, then it is correct to install 2 funnels to collect water from the roof slopes. By building regulations the maximum distance between two collection points is 20 meters.
- The simplest drainage device involves placing funnels to collect water, primarily near the corners of the building. To determine how many vertical pipes are required, you simply need to count the number of funnels, since each of them requires its own drain.
- The drain pipe is secured to the wall with a special bracket with a round holder of the appropriate diameter. For every meter of pipe you need 1 bracket. To make a calculation required quantity hooks for fixing the gutter, you should divide the perimeter of the house into a step between them, which is 50-60 cm.
Important! The main condition for effective water flow is a slope of 2-5 degrees towards the funnel. Experienced craftsmen They claim that it is enough to make a difference in height of 0.5 cm for every meter of gutter length.
Installation
You can install high-quality gutters yourself. Since the cost of installation per linear meter of a slope is approximately the same as the cost of 1 m of gutter complete with brackets and fasteners, it is more rational to do this work yourself:
Important! To check the quality of installation, pour a bottle of water onto the roof slope. If it quickly moves into the gutter, collects into a funnel and reaches the storm drain without loss, then everything is correct.
Video instruction
