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Making brackets for gutters with your own hands. How to make a drainpipe from plastic bottles. Installation of polymer gutters

IN construction stores You can find a lot of options for ready-made drainage systems, but their cost is high. Having learned how to make a drain with your own hands, you can make such a structure from steel sheets with different types coverings. It will not cost much, but will serve as reliably as one made in production.

The selected material must be strong, durable and resistant to impact. external environment– precipitation, temperature changes and ultraviolet rays.

To one degree or another, these requirements are met by:

1. Galvanized steel sheets – budget option, actively used to create gutters for drainage systems. Its disadvantage is that it is not very strong; the structure can be damaged with a crowbar when cleaning ice.
2. Metal with polymer coating. They are excellent for buildings whose roofs are covered with metal tiles, since it is easy to choose a material that matches the color. Resistance to low temperatures and corrosion make steel gutters with a protective polymer film a good choice. The only negative is the noticeable noise that occurs when water passes through the gutters.
3. Painted sheet steel. Such structures will require periodic renewal of the coating. Not a very good choice for roofed houses soft roof– abrasive particles falling into the gutters along with rainwater will gradually destroy the metal.
4. Plastic. Durable and corrosion-resistant material, products from which are quite easy to assemble. The design is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and is not destroyed by abrasive particles or acid precipitation. Doesn't make noise.
5. Copper and zinc-titanium alloy. They are distinguished by durability, strength and reliability, but are very expensive.

Main elements of the drainage system

A drainage system of any type consists of standard elements, each of which is responsible for a specific task:

1. Gutters. Water flowing from the roof enters gutters located around the perimeter of the building.
2. Drainpipes. From the gutters, wastewater is carried down through pipes.
3. Funnels. Connect gutters and pipes together.
4. Plugs. Elements that control the rate of precipitation runoff serve as limiters.
5. Adapters and couplings. Parts that connect straight sections of a structure together.
6. Tees, elbows, elbows. Used to distribute water, bring drainpipes closer to wall surfaces, and for corners.
7. Brackets and holders. They are used to secure gutters.
8. Clamps and pins - fasteners for pipes.

When designing gutters for the roof of a private house with your own hands, take into account:

1. Diameter of gutters and pipes. In each case, they are selected individually, taking into account the area of ​​the roof, the abundance of precipitation in the region, and the angle of inclination of the slopes. Average parameters for small buildings ( country houses, garages) – d gutters 7-11.5 cm, d pipes – 5-7 cm; for a cottage or house of medium size - d gutters 11.5-13 cm, d pipes 7.5-11 cm.
2. Location of drainage and water intake elements. The scheme depends on the type of roof and the length of the overhang. Pipes are usually installed in the corners of the building.
3. Quantity of materials. For an accurate calculation, you will need to calculate the total footage of the gutters (the perimeter of the building and a small margin of about 5%). You need to determine the number of funnels and pipes yourself, focusing on the length of the walls - they are installed at a distance of 10 m from each other. The length of the pipe depends on the height of the building (from ground level to overhang). The distribution, corner and connecting parts of the structure are determined individually, taking into account the configuration of your home.

Manufacturing of gutters from steel sheets

Gutters made of galvanized steel are the most popular and budget option. For the manufacture of a drainage system, you can use sheet metal with a polymer coating, which is more resistant to corrosion. external influences, the order of work will remain the same.

Materials and tools

To create a drain with your own hands you will need:

• sheet material 0.5 mm thick;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• metal scissors;
• marker for marking.

When performing work, you need to take into account that the width of the workpiece must be 1.5 cm greater than the diameter of the pipe - this gap is needed to connect the elements.

Pipe

Instructions for making a pipe:

1. A pattern is made on a metal sheet based on the previously calculated parameters. From one edge, running along the length of the sheet, you need to draw a straight line at a distance of 0.5 cm, from the other - with an indentation of 1 cm.
2. Using scissors, cut out the part.
3. The area with an indentation of 1 cm is bent at an angle of 90° using pliers, the second edge is also bent, but at a slight angle.
4. The workpiece is rolled into the shape of a pipe, with both curved edges fitting into one another.
5. Using a hammer, the pipe is lightly pressed down to give it shape and make it easier to connect to the next element.

Gutter

How to make a semicircular gutter yourself? Ideally, this work requires special equipment, since without it the product will have an uneven shape, but if you don’t have it, you can try to do it yourself.

From metal sheet cut out the workpiece, place it on a pipe or a tree trunk of the required diameter and, using a mallet, give the workpiece the required shape.

Funnel

The part consists of two glass pipes of different diameters, the diameter of which must be equal to the diameter of the pipe. The components are made independently, using the method described above, however, during manufacturing, the edges should be flared not inward, but outward.

Installation of a self-made drainage system

When all the elements are ready, begin assembling the drainage system.

Installation can be done in various ways, the choice of method depends on the fastenings and the time of year when the work is carried out.

It is advisable to install the drainage system before the roof has been covered. The most reliable and successful method is installation on a rafter or external crossbar of a pitched roof. This allows you to protect suspended fastening structures from rain by covering them with a cornice strip.

If the roof is already installed, use a different method.

Work order

First, attach the brackets that will support the gutters. They are placed every 55-60 cm, and the level should decrease towards the drain. The holders should be installed so that the roof overhang extends approximately one-third of the semicircle, the remaining two-thirds will collect the drainage from the roof rainwater.

To install brackets on a wooden cornice strip at the desired slope, use the following method:

1. Mount the highest positioned holder.
2. Install the bracket located at the lowest point (the slope is increased by 5 mm every meter). If you do not maintain the recommended tilt angle, water drainage will be difficult and leaks may occur.
3. The two installed brackets are connected with a thin rope, and a line is drawn along the wall along the rope.
4. The remaining supporting elements are installed at the required distance, placing them along the marked line.

After this, the gutter is installed; a plug is placed on the edge located highest. At the junction with the pipe gutter, a hole is cut out for a funnel, and the latter is installed.

After this work, the installation of waste pipes begins. To secure them along the wall, clamps are used.

If there is a storm drain on the site, the pipe is directed to it. In its absence, in case of water drainage into the soil, the pipe is placed at a distance of 30-35 cm above the ground level.

To prevent the system from becoming clogged with fallen leaves, it is advisable to install protective nets on the gutters. They will not interfere with water collection, but will protect gutters and pipes from large debris.

In ready-made systems, such protection is almost always supplied as a kit, but when making a drainage system yourself, it is easy to do it yourself.

This will require metal mesh in rolls. Having cut strips whose width is slightly larger than the diameter of the gutter, it is fixed to the elements of the discharge system using ordinary plastic clamps.

Both ready-made and self-made drainage systems must be regularly inspected and cleaned of contaminants. Even a metal mesh will not protect the structure from dirt, dust, and small debris getting inside. As they accumulate, they can impede the flow of water or form blockages in pipes. This can cause water to enter the walls of the house and erode the foundation.

Having learned how to properly make roof gutters with your own hands, you can save a lot if you do all the work on manufacturing and installing the manufactured system yourself. At the same time, it is important to carefully follow the work technology, and when drawing up an installation diagram, take accurate measurements. A design made in accordance with all the rules will reliably cope with the task and will last for many years.

It is impossible to do without drainage systems attached to the roof of the house if you do not want rain streams, flowing from the height of the roof, splashing onto the walls and washing away the foundation. You can assemble a roof drain with your own hands by purchasing ready-made systems from well-known companies, or you can make it yourself, for example, from galvanized sheets or even from plastic sewer pipes.

By purchasing professionally manufactured and structurally thought-out kits, you can choose everything for them necessary elements- from small fasteners to difficult angles and connections.

If a decision is made, then you will have to try and think carefully about what the elements of this system will be made of and how functional they will be.

What are drainage systems made of?

The most popular materials for the manufacture of gutters currently are special polymers that can easily withstand low and high temperatures, as well as their sharp changes. Such systems are produced by companies specialized in the development of plastic products for construction and external design buildings. Kits of professionally manufactured systems are quite expensive, and they are mainly installed on the roofs of respectable mansions and less often in — ordinary houses private sector, although they are capable of transforming any building.

Galvanized steel gutters are a kind of “classic of the genre”

Since time immemorial, drainage systems have been made of galvanized metal. Such elements are usually ordered from tinsmiths or purchased in specialized stores. Metal gutters are more affordable and therefore are used more often. Despite the low price compared to other systems, and perhaps not as aesthetically pleasing, galvanized gutters have their own positive aspects, in which they even surpass similar kits made of plastic or metal alloys. The main disadvantage of galvanized systems is the divergence of connecting seams due to differences temperature conditions. However, here a lot depends on the skill of the tinsmith who makes them.

Steel gutters can be coated with a layer of highly resistant polymer paint. This improves them significantly decorative characteristics and provides additional protection against corrosion.

Almost “eternal” gutters made of zinc-titanium alloy

Gutter systems are also made from a metal alloy called zinc-titanium, which is also coated with polymer paints at the final stage of production. The content of pure zinc in the alloy reaches 98 - 99% - a guarantee of corrosion resistance, the addition of titanium is a condition for the strength of products, and very small inclusions of aluminum and copper give this material high ductility during processing.

Such drainage systems look just as aesthetically pleasing as plastic ones, but are more reliable as they better withstand the influence of the external environment. Their external disadvantages, if the coating is of poor quality, include possible peeling of the polymer coating, therefore, having settled on this option, it is better to purchase kits from a trusted manufacturer that enjoys strong authority.

All of the listed materials are well suited for gutters - they are easy to process, install and look neat, blending organically with the exterior of the building and becoming both a necessary functional detail of the building and an important addition to its design.

Basic elements of a drainage system

If gutters are purchased in a store, you don’t have to think about how and what to make one of the elements of the system from - the manufacturer has already thought through all the nuances of the roof design. Having measured and specified all the parameters on own home, you can buy all the necessary parts.

Despite the variety of options for drainage systems, they all have approximately a common structure and consist of similar structural parts:

1. The gutter is the main part of the drain, which collects water flowing from the roof slopes. Typically, gutters are made up to 4 meters long.

2. Hook-brackets on which the gutter is laid. Plastic brackets are usually used for systems also made of polymers.

3. Gutter edge cap for right and left sides.

4. Funnels installed along the edges of gutters.

5. Central funnel, fixed with glue or using grooves and seals (5a).

6. Connecting piece (coupling) for the gutter. It can also be mounted with glue or with a clever groove connection using sealing gaskets (6a).

7. Universal connecting angle of 90º external and internal (7a).

8. Drain pipe with connecting pipe coupling

9. A screw clamp that tightens the coupling connection of pipes and other elements.

10. A tee providing a connection between two drainpipes.

11. Transition coupling - used when it is necessary to connect pipes of different diameters.

12 and 13. Bends (elbows) for connecting drainpipes. Usually they have an angle of 60 ÷ 70º - different manufacturers may use your own standards. It is clear that in one system there must be elements with the same values corner.

14. End outlet with an angle of 45 º - for directing wastewater to the storm water inlet storm sewer. This detail is also called a mark.

15. Hook-bracket made of metal.

In addition to the presented elements, for some drainage systems, instead of brackets, the kit includes cornice strip, which is an additional holder for brackets or even performs their function itself.

Before going to the store, you need to draw up a drawing of the edge of the roof with all the turns and protrusions, while measuring the corners. A drawing with detailed drainage parameters should be provided to a specialist, who should help select all the necessary elements for a complete set.

Video: example of installation of a finished GAMRAT drainage system

Prices for drainage systems

Drainage systems

Self-production of drainage elements

1. If you are installing a system made of galvanized metal, then, in order to save money, you can make gutters yourself, since sheets of material are much cheaper than ready-made elements.

You can make a semicircular or square gutter from galvanized steel, but the semicircular shape is still considered traditional.

It is easy to shape a thin sheet of metal into a pipe of the required diameter, making special bends at the edges so that they are securely held on the mounting brackets.

If you can make a gutter for the drain, then making the brackets won’t be a big deal either. Their semicircle should have a slightly larger radius, since the gutter should easily fit and be secured in the bracket.

It is easy to make a box-shaped gutter from galvanized metal. Its shape is drawn from a wooden block the right size. One of the sides is made a little larger and bent to the side so that the flowing water gets to the right place. Then, its edges are bent in a special way.

2. If you need to make a drain only on a straight section to the roof, then the gutter can also be made from plastic sewer pipes. Such gutters will cost almost nothing in terms of price, since one pipe produces two gutters at once.

• The pipe at the beginning and end is fixed on two boards using self-tapping screws; in its upper part, exactly opposite the lower fixation points, one more self-tapping screw is not completely screwed in. A thin line is pulled over their protruding parts. rope, a straight line is marked along it. Using this marking, the pipe is cut from start to finish using a grinder.
• The pipe is then turned over and the process is repeated. Thus, we get two halves, which will serve as gutters. When assembling, individual parts can be screwed together from the inside. Using sewer pipes, you can also take corner parts from the same system, also sawing them lengthwise.

Video: making gutters from a plastic sewer pipe

Of course homemade parts won't have this impressive looking, like professionally made ones, but you can save a decent amount on this.

3. If desired, you can select other components to assemble the entire complex, since currently you can find a lot suitable materials, which will serve as blanks. The only parts that you still have to order or buy are funnels. It is quite difficult to make them yourself without any experience in tin work.

Installation of a drainage system

The installation of the system is carried out in different ways, depending on the chosen fasteners and the installation period.

It is considered optimal to install it on the outer crossbar or rafter of a pitched roof before laying and securing the roofing.

The presented diagram clearly shows how the brackets are secured and covered with a cornice strip. In this case, it acts as a kind of shield for the soffit, protecting it from direct moisture.

In other cases, the eaves strip is made from a board, and if the brackets are not secured before laying the roof, then they are attached to it.

Sometimes gutter mounts are attached to the bottom of the slope directly onto the roof, but this is not entirely the right option.

Wherever the brackets for the gutters are attached, their location must be calculated in such a way that water flowing from the roof in a large stream falls into this channel and does not spill beyond it.

This parameter depends on how much the edge of the roof protrudes. If it extends over a sufficiently large distance, sometimes it makes sense to choose a fastening option installed on the roof itself.

Video: example of calculation and installation of a house drainage system

So, having purchased or manufactured a suitable drainage system, you can begin its installation.

1. The first step is the process of installing the gutter holder brackets.

They are fixed at a distance of 550 — 600 mm apart, with a slight slope towards the drain. The brackets must be secured in such a way that the roof overhang is at gutter 1/3 the size of the semicircle, and 2/3 of the gutters will “catch” water from the roof.

If the brackets are fixed on a wooden cornice strip, then in order to clearly see the slope and the fastening line, carry out the following steps:

— First, install a bracket that will support the highest edge of the gutter, taking into account all the rules and recommendations.

— The next step is to secure the last bracket in the row. It is fixed with a slope of 4-5 mm per linear meter. Incorrectly calculated and installed system will not work efficiently, and over time it will inevitably develop leaks.

— Then, the brackets are fixed in the marked places. In this way, the required overall slope of the drainage system will be met. gutters

• The gutter is laid and assembled, and a plug is installed on its raised edge.

• If a funnel is to be installed at the end and in the middle of the gutter, and it is necessary to make a hole for it corresponding to the size of the funnel, then it is installed on the gutter and fixed.

• An additional middle funnel is installed if the length of the side of the house exceeds 12 meters. If it is shorter, then it is enough to install this element only at the end of the gutter, in its lower part.
• The gutter is fixed by sliding a groove on its edge onto the protrusion of the bracket.
• If a ready-made drainage system is installed, then the individual parts of the gutter are fastened together with special connecting parts, which provide for precise mating and appropriate sealing. If the system is made independently, then the gutters are laid overlapping and twisted with self-tapping screws. In this case, it is also useful to provide a thin sealing gasket, for example, from a rubber strip.
• When the sewer channel is laid and funnels are installed in it, sewer pipes and elbow bends are mounted to them, which are tightened at the joints with clamps. Drainpipes are secured to the wall with clamps. Using bends will allow you to position the pipes along the wall so that the clamp posts do not protrude too much.

• If water from the roof goes into the ground, then the drain pipe attached to the wall should end at 300 — 350 mm from the ground surface.
• If for collection and disposal rain or melt water, a storm drain is installed around the house, then pipe from the roof sometimes connect directly to it or place the edge of the drainpipe with a mark directly above the storm inlet opening or drainage tray.

Find out how to make different systems from our new article.

Something that many people forget about or simply don’t know. It is highly advisable to install a protective mesh on the gutters, which will not allow large debris and fallen leaves to accumulate at the bottom. In ready-made systems, it is usually provided in the form of a strip that is attached to the edges of the gutter.

For a homemade system, you can purchase mesh by the meter and place it in a gutter, rolling it into a roll, which is held together with special plastic clamps.

You can make such a “filter” yourself by rolling the mesh into a tube along the diameter of the drain

Video: an important element of the drainage system - a mesh to protect against large debris

Whatever drainage system is installed on the roof of a house, it needs periodic monitoring and regular preventative cleaning. Even if a mesh is installed on the gutter, it needs to be washed sometimes, since large fragments from the roof get into the drains with a large amount of dust and dirt, and the soaked fallen leaves that fall on the mesh are not always blown away by the wind. If the drain system is clogged, all the water that accumulates in it, along with dirt, will one day end up on the walls of the house.

Getting started with installation finished system or for self-production drainage, you need to correctly calculate all the parameters and slopes, make a drawing and, of course, evaluate your strength in performing this work. If you are not sure that it will be done with the proper quality, it is better to seek help from specialists.

To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is installed. Are they from different materials more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are substantial. You can save a little if you assemble the drain yourself. About the features and installation procedure and we'll talk further.

Types of drainage systems

The most famous and common roof drains are made of galvanized metal. They may not be as attractive as more modern options, but they are reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What’s also good is that if you have the skill of a tinsmith or just have “straight” hands, you can make a drain out of galvanized steel with your own hands.

If we talk about other metal systems, two of them belong to the elite category - copper and an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal drainage systems with polymer spraying. They are quite affordable in price, appearance— you can’t find fault with it, durability depends on the manufacturer. If the technology is followed, they will happen for many years.

There is another type of roof drainage - made from polymers. They can withstand ultraviolet radiation, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered the rather high price, especially from European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the low-cost systems category.

Composition of drainage systems

Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located along the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly; for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered unnecessary. Then the gutters are laid overlapping with an overlap of at least 30 cm and connected with self-tapping screws.

To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe must be made curved. For this, there are maple or universal rings (from some manufacturers). The drainpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps, which have the same color as the entire system.

A system of the required configuration is assembled from all these elements. If you decide to buy ready-made elements, and then assemble the drain with your own hands, the best solution is to have a house plan with dimensions on hand. Using it, you can quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate the required number of elements.

Installation features

Most of the questions arise about attaching brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.

If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made in one direction. If more, or put an additional funnel in the middle (and drainpipe) and a drain is formed to it, or the gutter in the middle of the pediment has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle in both directions.

When installing a drain with your own hands, you usually do this: nail the bracket at the highest point. Then the lowest one is nailed, taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the others are attached. One recommendation - before forming a slope, check the horizontality of the line you are focusing on. Usually this is either a front (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, in extreme cases, a bubble level will do, but of a long length - at least a meter. You won’t be able to find your bearings with shorter ones at longer lengths.

Number of brackets and methods of attaching them

The number of brackets for installing a drain is calculated simply: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Divide the total length of the wall by this distance. To the resulting figure we add one (extreme bracket) and get the required quantity for one wall. All others are calculated similarly. If the building has a non-linear shape, you will have to count one by one - the corner elements must be supported on both sides.

Now directly about the methods of attaching the brackets. There are three possibilities:

Once again, please note that the brackets are nailed taking into account the created slope. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or special tool— hook bender (sold in the same place where gutters are sold). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the range of 1/2 - 1/3. So most The gutters “catch” water, which is important during heavy rainfalls.

At what level should I mount it?

Now about how high to raise the gutter to roofing material. If there is not much snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and attach it wherever you like. Otherwise, the gutter must be lowered so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “go away.”

In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.

If you cannot lower the gutter lower, you will need to install snow guards on the roof. They prevent massive snowfall. The snow gradually melts and comes off in small fragments, without harming the storm drain.

This is what a massive snow melt looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)

Gutter installation

Gutters are placed in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequence actions. The first has a specially formed groove at the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, secured with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.

In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. The far edge of the gutter is inserted into the locks located there, then pressed alternately into the locks on the front of the brackets.

The two fragments of the gutter must be connected using a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply laid overlapping with an overlap of 30 cm (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness, you can lay a strip of rubber between the two gutters and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.

Funnel fastening

Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues by installing funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, at a distance of about 20 cm from the edge of the gutter, a hole is cut out with a hand hacksaw. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - there is a high probability that the cutout will be too large.

A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it is wound up to the second edge and fixed there with special clamps.

Installation of drainpipes

Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotating element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows the pipes to be brought closer to the wall and secured there. For fastening there are special clamps painted in the same color as the entire system. There they are different designs, but mostly they have a latch so that they can be dismantled without removing the screws that secure the pipe to the wall.

The clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be led directly into drainage system(if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drainage pipe ends with a rotating element, which diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.

In principle, you installed the drain yourself, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is placed on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.

Installing a grid will allow for less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true on tall buildings.

Homemade drain

Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done at the dacha and you need to spend a minimum for this? There are several very budget options. The first is to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes. They take the pipes large diameter(110 mm and more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. The same diameter or slightly smaller can be used as drain pipes. It’s more convenient to buy ready-made brackets, but in principle, you can make them yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, watch the video.

An even more budget-friendly option is drainpipes made from plastic bottles. They cannot make a normal gutter, but the pipe funnels work normally.

Ecology of consumption. Estate: It has happened to almost everyone that when running in rainy weather past houses that do not have roofs drainage system, you find yourself under a whole waterfall of water that flows down the roof. By laying a concrete blind area around the perimeter of your house or paving slabs, you will not feel safe until you install a drainage system, because water falling from a great height will quickly destroy any blind area.

It has happened to almost everyone that when running in rainy weather past houses that do not have a drainage system on the roof, you find yourself under a whole waterfall of water that flows down the roof. Having laid a concrete blind area or paving slabs around the perimeter of your house, you will not feel safe until you install a drainage system, because water falling from a great height will quickly destroy any blind area.

Therefore, when starting to build a house, you need to take care of the drainage of sediment. Often, to prevent rainwater from flooding the facade and foundation of a building, they build gutters with their own hands.

It is necessary to make sure that the water, obeying your will, flows along the path you created. In this article you will find all the information on this issue.

Selecting the required material

Before installing a drainage system with your own hands, you need to determine what material it will be made of:

• metal;
• plastic.

In housing and communal organizations, in most cases, it is customary to use more cheap option– galvanized steel system. But, with frequent clearing of the roof from ice, icicles and snow, the galvanized system cannot withstand such loads, is subject to deformation and requires constant repair.

Therefore, if the drainage system is not provided with heating, and the main tool for clearing ice is a destructive scrap, then it is best to use galvanized steel. This option is more economical in terms of reducing the budget for drainage system maintenance due to frequent repairs and replacement of drainage parts.

In individual construction, galvanized drainage systems are quite rare. The following materials are commonly used:

• plastic;
• painted metal;
• metal elements with polymer coating.

Copper guttering is particularly impressive, but is typically seen in copper roofing projects on luxury homes.

You can easily choose a metal system with a polymer coating to match the color of the facade or roof, which is not afraid of either heat or frost. The only problem with such systems can be considered increased noise during rain.

In buildings with metal roofing usually a metal drain is installed, and if the roof is made using flexible tiles– it is best to use a PVC system.

Flexible coatings use mineral chips, which are gradually washed away by precipitation during operation. Based on abrasive particles, it destroys metal pipes, negatively affecting their functional properties. Mineral chips, passing through plastic pipes drainage system, does not deteriorate their properties and does not affect their appearance in any way.

What type of gutter to use

When constructing and arranging the roof, you need to take into account that the drainage you install yourself must meet all the requirements that apply to such systems. All drainage systems for houses are divided into external and internal.

Internal roof drainage is recommended for use in places where the climate is predominantly harsh. This system is also used in construction flat roof. In this case, a slope is installed on the roof directed towards the internal receiving funnel.

For internal systems, drainpipes are mounted away from the walls inside the room.

Do-it-yourself gutter installation for an internal system involves using the following components:

• receiving funnel;
• pipeline;
• collector;
• connectors necessary for system inspection.

In accordance with SNIP 2.04.01-85, all precipitation entering internal system, must go into the storm drain.

If the building does not have a storm drain, it is necessary to install an external drainage system from the roof. Moreover, the system must be designed so that local area was not washed away by incoming water. It is necessary to think over the external drainage system before installing the roof itself.

Therefore, it is considered a mistake to do the installation of gutters with your own hands after completing all stages construction work and, even more so, after the finishing of the house.

It must be remembered that the gutter holder must be secured to the roof fascia or rafters before laying the waterproofing layer or roofing.

Drainage system design

Drainage outdoor system consists of three main components:

• gutters;
• pipes;
• plum.

In this case, the pipe is secured using pins with clamps, and the gutter is secured with staples or a hook.

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Types of gutters

Basically, a do-it-yourself gutter is made from galvanized steel.

Modern manufacturers offer alternative option, which is considered to be a complete roof drainage system.

If you use this option, then there is no need to make gutters yourself. In this case, metal or plastic gutters can be used in various sections:

• trapezoidal;
• rectangular;
• semicircular.

To prevent sedimentary water from overflowing over the edge of the gutter, experts recommend the use of a design such as a semicircular gutter with an internal stiffener along the edge.

Assembling the drainage system - instructions

In order to make a gutter with your own hands, make your own pipe and drain, you need to purchase steel sheet, the thickness of which must be at least 7÷8 mm. Next we do the following:

In the case when the drainpipe consists of several components, then one side of the link needs to be made narrower by 5 mm. This will allow the links to be tightly connected into one whole. To limit too deep entry of the components, it is necessary to make protrusions of 6 ÷ 7 mm at their ends.

Correct installation of the drain

You can make all the parts for the drainage system yourself or purchase parts of the desired style. However, how to make a drain that will work correctly and efficiently?

Disposal of wastewater into the ground

For this you need to follow the following rules:

• For these purposes, a two-meter piece of pipe with a diameter of 100 mm is attached to the drain. The pipe is buried in the ground, because if this is not done, waste water will return to the house and moisten the foundation if the angle of inclination increases.

A DIY drainage system must be equipped with a drainage pipe (often made of corrugated plastic), which has a slope and ends below the base of the house.

Direct installation of the drain

What should you do first and what does installation mean – plastic drainage systems? First, we calculate the required number of components included in the design:

• gutters;
• bracket;
• plugs;
• pipes;
• funnels;
• other connecting parts.

Assembling the drain with your own hands

We attach the holders to the installed rafters

After purchasing all necessary details We immediately begin collecting the drainage, observing the following sequence of actions:

• Bracket installation. To protect the gutter from damage caused by uneven movement of snow or rain, it is necessary to secure the holders at a distance of 500÷550 mm. The first and last brackets are secured with a slope. Between the two lower points you need to pull a cord along which the other holders of the structure are aligned.
• Gutter installation. The correct installation of the gutter will determine normal functioning the entire system. Its outer edge is located at a distance below 24 mm from the roof plane. Next, the gutter itself is placed in the bracket, while the joints are connected into a lock and coated with sealant.

Gutter installation

You need to start laying from the funnel. In plastic drainage systems, adjustment required size gutters are made using a hacksaw or grinder.

It is not recommended to use glue when installing drainpipes.

Do-it-yourself installation of gutters video and simple rules installation help to understand not only the installation features of this system, but also the rules for caring for it. Gutters need to be cleaned once or twice a year.

With proper design and installation, the drainage system can last much longer than the period set by the manufacturer. Having followed all the recommendations, you become the owner of a roof with properly made drains that harmoniously fit into the architectural ensemble of your home. published

The drainage system involves the collection and disposal of precipitation, as well as melt water, but the capabilities of such systems do not end there, since with their help it is possible to direct liquid directly into the storm drain. As a result, precipitation does not fall on the walls, while ensuring the safety of the blind area. In addition, the accumulation of water near the foundation and in basements is eliminated, which guarantees an extension of the life of the building.

In this article we will look at some types of rainwater drains, and also learn how to make them yourself.

The design of the drain requires the presence of special gutters for removing precipitation, which are installed along the perimeter of the roof using brackets. Due to the fact that the storm drain repeats the configuration of the upper element of the building along its base, there are both external and internal corners. In this case, all elements of the system are connected to each other with sufficient tightness, which is ensured by rubber seals.

Many consider such elements to be superfluous, since the option of laying gutters overlapping is available, when one part overlaps the other by at least 30 cm, and their connection is carried out using self-tapping screws.

To ensure the removal of sediment, holes are made in certain places in the gutter necessary for the installation of funnels. After that, sewer pipes are connected to the installed cone-shaped devices, that is, they are integrated into the overall system.

When the roof has a large overhang, a curved cylindrical product is used, which is possible using additional elements in the form of knees and special rings. The drainpipe is mounted on the wall of the house using clamps.

The result of such an assembly is the creation of a system of the required configuration. For independent arrangement storm drains, you will need a house plan with its exact dimensions. This will allow you to understand what items will need to be purchased for future design, and also decide on their quantity.

Species

Drainage systems may differ in the method of installation and the material used. In the first case, the water drainage structure is classified as home-made and industrial, and in the second - as plastic and metal.

Homemade drain

Solving the issue of installing rainwater drainage on your own has certain advantages. Such a system can turn out not only beautiful, but also original. You can realize almost any fantasy in terms of creating a structure to protect your home from water. It is worth considering some nuances.

A homemade system requires significant costs and regular maintenance, since its arrangement is usually carried out using galvanizing, which quickly begins to rot. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the certain complexity of joining some elements.

We tried to take into account common mistakes masters and installation rules are given below.

Factory drain

Purchasing a factory-made rainwater drainage system will save you from many problems of non-compliance with standards and parameters. By purchasing certain gutter elements from one manufacturer, you don’t have to worry that they won’t fit with each other, since the factory is distinguished by the production of standardized products.

Plastic drain

Plastic-based systems can be adhesive, which involves installing storm drains using glue, or glueless, assembled using sealing rubber bands. Regardless of the installation method you choose, plastic gutters have the following advantages:

• UV resistance;
• no corrosion;
• strength;
• light weight;
• wide operating temperature range – from -40 °C to +70 °C;
• the ability to create a drain of any configuration, which is determined by a rich assortment of components;
• no need for regular care;
• ease of installation;
• variety of color solutions.

However, plastic also has a certain number of disadvantages, including the following:

• poor resistance to mechanical stress, which excludes the possibility of installing plastic structures on high-rise buildings;
• regular shift rubber seals, which can be carried out exclusively by disassembling the problem area and reassembling it after eliminating the malfunction;
• the inability to restore one or another destroyed instrument, which characterizes such systems as insufficiently repairable;
• significant linear expansion of plastic elements.

Metal drain

Storm sewers made of metal differ from each other in that they can be galvanized, copper, or with a zinc layer supplemented with a polymer coating. The choice of a specific type of design is based on characteristics such as price and service life. Anyway metal gutters good because they:

The disadvantages of such systems include:

• significant weight of the drainage structure as a whole;
• a small number of components, which makes it difficult to install such systems on roofs with angles other than 90 degrees;
• installation complexity;
• high price;
• small selection of colors;
• susceptibility to corrosion (except for copper systems);

Determining which drain is better is quite difficult, since much depends on various factors, for example, operating conditions. At the same time, it is necessary to understand that the main importance is not the cost of the design, but its compliance with quality parameters.

Do-it-yourself drain from various materials

Below are some examples of how to do it rain drainage for the roof yourself. This task is not difficult, the main thing is to have the desire to do such work, understand the process of creating a system and know some options for executing the plan. For example, a drain can be made from a sewer pipe, tin, sheet metal, wood, polyethylene, etc.

sewer pipe

For correct calculation gutter parameters in accordance with the expected intensity of rain flow, it is necessary to determine the effective roof area. If such calculations cause you difficulties, you can use average values, which involves preparing the following elements of the system:

• plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 mm for arranging water drainage;
• a cylindrical product with a thickness of 100 to 110 mm, necessary for the manufacture of gutters;
• adapters that make it possible to connect the above-mentioned elements with each other when the inlet diameter reaches 110 mm, and the outlet diameter reaches 50 mm.

Since a plastic sewer pipe was used to make gutters, it will need to be split into two halves of equal size. To do this, you can use a grinder, electric jigsaw or a hand hacksaw. The first option is preferable, but there are some nuances to the process.

If you cut a pipe using a grinder, plastic will inevitably stick to the special casing, so it is advisable to dismantle this safety element. As a result, it is recommended to use other protection, part of which is a mandatory face mask. Although there are more optimal solution The task is to buy a special disk designed for working with plastic.

To ensure a high-quality connection of gutters and tees, do not unravel the pipe all the way: leave about 150 mm at the edges.

Metal

A sheet of metal is taken and cut into strips so that their width is 25 cm. Then these parts are given the shape of a gutter, that is, they are curved accordingly. The use of galvanized sheet or tin requires the manufacture of durable steel brackets. For this you can use wire rod (6 mm), but then you will have to double the number of hooks.

Making your own brackets shouldn't be difficult. To do this, it is enough to take a cut of a log with a diameter of 20 cm and wind a wire around it, making about three turns. After this, you need to remove the resulting workpiece and compress it. Then you need to bend the edge of the structure by 4 cm to fix it on the roof, and shape the remaining part in accordance with the required profile.

Using the same screws, the brackets are installed on the roof. Then the gutters are suspended and the catch basins are leveled to form the desired slope.

Wood and polyethylene

The starting material for constructing a drain of this type should be a thin board, the total length of which would be equal to double the perimeter in relation to the roof overhang. After which you can begin the actual production of the drain:

1. Connect the boards in pairs using nails at 90 degree angles.
2. Assemble gutters that match the length of the walls of the house, which must be overlapped.
3. Make fasteners for installing gutters in the form of hooks using boards or wire rod. The best solution will be the use not of wire, but of scrap lumber, the use of which involves cutting grooves triangular shape, serving to secure the gutter.
4. Secure the brackets to the corners of the wall, for example, with nails.
5. Install narrow channels to direct rainwater from the top of the building, ensuring that their edges overlap.
6. Adjust the slope of the gutters and lay them in plastic film, securing it with shoe nails, buttons or tape.

For the manufacture of a drainpipe, a wooden gutter is quite suitable if its length is at least 2.5 m. The purpose of arranging a drainage is to divert atmospheric precipitation into a special ditch, which should have a depth of about 30 cm, and it must also be filled with crushed stone. When digging a ditch, you should create a slope that helps drain sediment away from the wall of the house to a distance of at least 1.5 m.

A wooden roof drain will last longer if, to ensure tightness, you use not plastic film, but silicone sealant, having previously treated the wood with a preservative composition.

Installation nuances

After all the preparations have been made, let’s take a closer look at how to build a drainage system with your own hands. Installation of brackets is carried out with the obligatory creation of a slope towards the funnels, when, taking into account the linear meter, a vertical displacement of 5 mm is assumed. If there is a need to accelerate the flow of water, this slope can be increased to 10 mm.

If the length of the pediment does not exceed 10 m, a slope is made to one side. A larger value involves the installation of an additional funnel installed in the middle with a drain pipe connected to it to form a drain. But you can also make two slopes of the gutter going from the middle of the gable.

To install gutters you need:

• fix the first bracket at the point of maximum height of the sewerage system;
• fix the second one, taking into account the fact that it will be lower than the first one, thereby creating the required slope;
• Pull twine between the installed brackets, which serves as a guide for marking the attachment points for other supporting parts of this type.

The described process of installing storm sewers looks quite simple from the point of view of its implementation, but there are certain nuances. To create a slope, they mainly focus on the horizontal, which is the front board, known as the wind board.

But is it always installed with strict horizontality? It is advisable to verify this, for example, using a hydraulic level or level. You can also use a simple option in the form of a bubble device, but only if its length is 1 m or more.

Installation of a metal drain

Installation metal structure a little more complicated. The system is set up in compliance with a certain order of work: first, hooks are installed, then funnels are cut in, gutters are connected to each other, plugs and other elements are used to form the system as such, including connecting drainage pipes.

Hooks

Installation of long hooks at the stage of building a house, that is, before laying the roof, is the primary way to fasten these parts to the rafters. If the upper element of the building's covering is already equipped, short rods are used, the mounting location of which is the frontal board.

The use of long hooks is preferable, as this allows you to give the system additional strength. In any case, regardless of the type of fastening, the installation step of the hooks should be observed - from 600 to 900 mm. If this is not followed, there is a high probability of the system collapsing due to the load created by the snow. To calculate the required number of hooks there is a simple formula:

n = L/b,

where L is the distance that determines the distance from the first two installed metal rods from each other, b – step of installation of supporting parts of the type in question.

The number of hooks required during the construction of a gutter system is calculated not only using the above formula, but also taking into account the fact that these supporting parts must be present at the joints of the gutter and at its ends.

To create a flow of collected water towards the funnel, the system is given a slope of 5 mm per linear meter of the gutter. As a result, there is a need for vertical displacement of fasteners, which can be calculated using the following formula:

h = 0.005 x L,

where L is the distance between the outer hooks.

For example, with a gutter length of 10 m, the vertical displacement will be determined to be 5 cm. The installation of the so-called starting hooks is carried out taking into account the vertical displacement. Installation of other supporting parts is carried out along a line that is marked using twine stretched between the two initially installed hooks.

Before proceeding with the installation of these parts, it is advisable to check whether the position of the cornice corresponds horizontal level, as this may affect the accuracy of the marking. The hooks must be fastened with a distance of at least 25 mm between the line created by the roof slope and the edge of the gutter looking outward.

Funnels

Mark the locations for installing the funnels, and then cut out the holes in the shape of the letter V. If you intend to install a 125 by 90 mm drain, then the width of such openings should be from 100 to 110 mm. When installing a structure 150 by 100 mm - from 120 to 130 mm. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the distance of the upper edge of the gutter from the cutout in accordance with a minimum distance of 15 mm.

Stubs

Installation of such devices is carried out at the ends of the gutter. The implementation of this process involves direct installation plugs followed by sealing the connection using a special silicone compound. Greater density can be achieved through the effectiveness of a rubber mallet.

Gutters

Using a hook, secure the gutter by inserting its inner edge into the clamp and ensuring that the outer edge is held in place due to the plate type of this fastener.

This installation involves fastening the gutter, ensuring that the outer edge of this element of the system should be 6 mm lower than the inner one. Setting the proposed angle of inclination is necessary to eliminate the possibility of water getting on the façade during heavy rainfall.

In this case, the roofing covering should be located above the gutter, covering 50 mm of its width. At the same time, the slope line should not reach the edge of the gutter by 40 mm. Although a run-up is usually formed due to the fact that the narrow channel is installed at a slope, that is, at the top point of the gutter it can be 20 mm, and at the bottom - 70 mm.

Upon completion of the installation of the channel that collects and directs water from the roof of the building, the eaves strip is installed. Its lower edge should hang over the gutter, as this eliminates the possibility of the front board getting wet.

Connectors and corners

Special connectors make it possible to join gutters. Such elements contain rubber gaskets, which not only guarantee the tightness of the joint, but also eliminate negative impact thermal expansion.

The gutters must be fixed with the condition that there is a gap of 3 to 4 mm between them. Direct installation of connectors involves the following set of actions: bend the lock at an angle within 90 degrees; install the device so that its rolled side is put on the back of the gutter; Align the product and secure the lock.

Drainpipes

This stage requires the mandatory installation of at least 2 brackets with a step of 1 m. Supporting parts must be installed at the pipe joints and where the elbow is mounted.

If the walls of the house are wooden or the material from which they are made is quite soft, then the brackets are fixed with self-tapping screws. In relation to concrete and brick walls Installation of supporting parts requires the use of a drill.

The final installation process is the connection of the elbow of the cylindrical product, the drain and connecting pipes, as well as the drain elbow. Taking into account the fact that the connecting pipe is crimped on both sides, the product can easily be used when installing two risers, since it can be cut.

If there is a need to get connecting pipe about 90 cm long, to do this you just need to get rid of the top crimp, that is, cut it off. The height of the drain elbow from the ground level should be no more than 200 mm, as this avoids splashing water.

The last nuances of installing the system are connecting the sewer pipe to the funnel and snapping the bracket locks.

Installation of cylindrical drainage products should be done with crimping down, which is necessary in order to eliminate the possibility of leakage.

Installation of PVC drain

There is nothing complicated in installing this design, but it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

• indicate how the system will be placed, taking into account the fact that it should receive the entire volume of precipitation collected from the roof;
• determine the location of funnels and corners;
• install the first bracket at the highest point in relation to the cone-shaped device;
• using twine and a level, determine a horizontal line passing through the point where the bracket is installed, and, starting from it, set the slope;
• install the last supporting part and connect it to the first using twine;
• install other brackets in 40 cm increments, adhering to the marked slope line.

1. Gutter installation:

• prepare a narrow channel by making sections of it of the required length;
• connect the drainage components using appropriate elements or glue;
• install the gutter on the brackets, using the latches and avoiding the joints of both the channels themselves and the funnels falling on these supporting elements;
• install plugs.

1. Installation of a sewerage system:

• connect the pipe to the gutter by diverting the drain;
• align the vertical of the cylindrical structure using a plumb line and a square;
• fix the pipes forming the sediment drainage structure in order to determine the installation locations of the clamps in 1 m increments, but with the obligatory location of the upper part on the line of the first joint;
• fix the connecting elements on the wall, taking into account that the sewer pipe after installation will be 2 cm away from the side structure of the house;
• mount the drain bell on the hatch, but without rigid fixation, so that you can control the drainage.

We tried to touch on all the nuances of installing rainwater drainage. Some work is quite difficult to do alone, so it is recommended to use a partner.