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How to insulate the walls of the attic of a house from the inside. How to insulate an attic from the inside - do-it-yourself thermal insulation of an attic roof. Rafter structure for metal tiles

Internal insulation of an attic is one of the most difficult construction tasks. And all because the result is important here: how the roofing pie will behave in winter, whether there will be any leaks, whether there will be a smell of dampness, and whether it will all have to be dismantled later. Why such difficulties? The fact is that no matter how carefully the budget for building a house is planned, as a rule, it is still not enough for everything. To the point that even the owners of the future family home decide to buy laminate flooring cheaper - just to finish the repairs and just start living. And the most popular expense item, which is immediately cut as soon as the lack of funds becomes clear, is attic insulation. “Later, in the future,” the owners promise themselves, especially since insulating the attic from the inside is not a problem at all, and you can start it at any time, even in winter.

In fact, there are a lot of subtleties and nuances here, and therefore, if you have already taken up this matter, carefully study this article. And everything will work out!

Why do problems arise?

There are statistics: up to 30% of attics have to be remodeled after the first winter. The roof covering, interior trim and films are removed, and the insulation is dried. In this case, a lot of materials have to be thrown away, and this is another unplanned expense. Even if you hired a professional team of builders, this is not a guarantee of the well-being of the future attic, especially if the roofing cake is thought out without taking into account the peculiarities of the local climate.

Why is this happening? Thus, in Russia, dampness, cold and round-the-clock negative temperatures are not uncommon. The lower the temperature external environment, the greater the volume of steam that penetrates the vapor barrier - all due to an increase in the partial pressure difference. And at the same time, the migration of moisture through the cold membrane slows down significantly, although it does not stop. Bottom line: the situation is even worse than under standard tested conditions. And therefore it is impossible to test vapor permeability roofing pie V European conditions, and expect the same good results in the Siberian regions.

Here simple illustration To make it clearer to you what we are talking about here:

Note that the maximum water vapor pressure on the roofing pie is in the residential attic. And it’s not even that there are people in such a room much more often than in an ordinary cold attic - it’s just that the pressure of warm air is additionally added to the steam pressure. Moreover, these processes are so obvious that they can be observed in the form of real leaks!

The fact is that wet insulation loses its properties very quickly. And the more humid the air that reaches it, the faster the thermal insulation decreases. For example, basalt insulation with a humidity of only 5% it already loses its heat by 20% than dry.

For example, just one cubic meter airspace, if it relative humidity is 100%, at a temperature of 20C contains 17.3 grams of water - simply in the form of steam. And the lower the temperature, the more difficult it is for air to hold water in a bound state. And when the temperature drops to 16C, there will be only 13.6 grams of water vapor in the same air, and the rest will settle as water in the insulation. Let us conclude: moisture in the insulation appears due to the condensation of excess water vapor from the air as the temperature decreases. And it must be actively fought. And this is far from the only problem - now we will deal with them all.

Let's start insulation - work technology

Let's start with the first problem - insufficient thickness of the joists if you insulate the attic after the construction of the entire house and installation of the roofing. Why is that? Let's take a closer look at this issue.

Thus, attic insulation can be divided into basic and additional. Basic is insulation, which is carried out during the construction of the roof of the house and involves the use of lightweight insulation directly into the rafter structure. And here additional insulation is already turning an uninhabited attic into a full-fledged attic.

With basic insulation, the main task is to minimize the heat loss of the house through the roof, and such basic insulation can easily replace additional internal insulation, if only you choose the insulation wisely, do not skimp on its thickness and think through the rafter system well. That's what those builders often do own home who understand that 20 rooms may not be enough in the future, and additional room it cannot interfere with a billiard room, library or sauna. And therefore, it is better to initially build it completely residential, and not finish something later.

But, if during the construction of your house you decided to make do with basic thermal insulation and now you have enthusiastically taken up the task of arranging your living and cozy attic, then the only option for you is additional internal insulation with all its nuances, the main one of which is the insufficient thickness of the rafters, which were not originally designed for dense internal insulation. But the problem is completely solvable, to prove which we have prepared a detailed master class for you:

Now let’s move on to more insidious aspects that are no less important: proper vapor barrier and waterproofing, which you may have to redo.

No - dampness and smudges!

For any insulation it is extremely important to create the right conditions, otherwise the material will quickly become damp and instead of a source of heat it will become a source of dampness, mold and cold. What are these conditions? Let's take a closer look!

What is dew point?

The first and most important quality of any insulation is low thermal conductivity. Thanks to it, the insulating layer strictly separates the warm air inside from the cold outside. It would seem that they inserted insulation into the rafters, secured it - and that’s all that else is needed? Not so!

Firstly, from the outside, the whole thing must be carefully waterproofed from rain and damp air, because... In this regard, such a roofing pie is a real sponge. Secondly, any insulation also has a second quality - vapor permeability, i.e. "breathes". Now let’s remember physics: the warm, humid air inside the room under the roof (always humid!), without finding an obstacle, easily passes inside the insulation and collides with its colder part, the one that is closer to the roofing pie. And there this air condenses, settling in the form of droplets, which is called the dew point. And then what's the point? external waterproofing? Mineral wool insulation is especially susceptible to this phenomenon, note.

Therefore, our first task is to ensure that as little steam as possible passes through the insulation, because even super-diffuse membranes in the cold do a poor job of removing water vapor, due to a significant slowdown in moisture transfer processes. And this is a question of proper vapor barrier of the attic insulation.

Here clear example What unpleasant consequences does ignoring the concept of dew point lead to:

Vapor barrier: warm European winters and Russian frosts

Actually in Western Europe, where winter has always been mild, in a vapor barrier with special properties There is no need - simple packaging films are quite suitable. So they sometimes end up in Russia, although their vapor barrier properties are not high. These are LDPE roll films, which stands for “low density polyethylene”. In such films, uneven thickness and microdefects are noticeable. Their main purpose is product packaging.

A little better reinforced materials, which are made by hot pressing a film onto a mesh of twisted thread. In production, such films are injured by mesh nodes, and as a result, the low vapor barrier properties are further reduced. Although the film itself turns out to be much stronger than usual, of course.

More reliable are bag fabrics made from polypropylene threads and spunbonds. The former are additionally laminated with molten PEPN, but a uniform and continuous film is still not obtained, although the strength is pleasing. And the latter are made from non-woven polypropylene fiber, but its vapor permeability is still in the range of 15-25 g/m2 per day, and this is a very low figure.

And aluminum foil boasts the best vapor barrier properties, which is even suitable for arranging steam rooms in which the pressure and volume of water vapor are the highest. The only point: such a vapor barrier additionally creates the effect of a thermos in the attic, simultaneously reflecting invisible heat rays back into the room. That’s why it’s better not to insulate a small attic room this way, but for a spacious one it’s just the same.

Therefore, if you want to save heat as much as possible, or you are planning to make a good sauna in the attic, then you need the following vapor barrier:

Or immediately purchase insulation with an aluminum side:

We close access to water vapor

But remember that it is still important to properly lay and waterproof a good vapor barrier film, otherwise water vapor will still find its way in.

The joints of vapor barrier sheets are usually sealed with a special adhesive tape made of butyl rubber, but even in this case complete tightness cannot be guaranteed. The thing is that over time, the adhesion of the sticky layer decreases, and with additional load the canvases come unglued. That's why when installing exterior finishing, when it is possible to attach the same drywall directly to a vapor barrier, many people install additional sheathing. Its task is not so much to ensure that the finish is fixed more evenly (which is also important), but rather to press the tape or sealant with the slats.

In addition, this sheathing (usually with slats up to 3 cm thick) additionally allows you to lay electrical wires directly under the sheathing, and not through the insulation, as many do and which can hardly be called a technically competent solution.

But the places where the vapor barrier adjoins the passing pipes and brick walls must be insulated with special sealants or tapes.

Another important point: never tighten the vapor barrier - fasten it with a small margin. The fact is that all wooden structures, which is what the rafter system is, naturally dry out and become slightly smaller in size. The frame itself becomes mobile, and there is a risk of ruptures under the roof outside and under the sheathing inside. And then - surprise!

Does external waterproofing “breathe”?

So, with warm inside Insulation we install a vapor barrier, which does not allow moist air to enter from the room. And on the outer, colder side we are already attaching waterproofing, which will protect the insulation under the roofing pie from external accidental leaks of melt water or rain.

And the further development of events depends on how “breathable” the top waterproofing film turns out to be. So, if you purchased the most ordinary roll of inexpensive waterproofing, things are bad, the moisture from the roofing cake will evaporate for a long time and with difficulty, as a result - dampness and gradual destruction of the insulation. But modern vapor-permeable membranes are called “smart” for a reason: they do not let moisture in, but remove water vapor out. It's all about their unusual, well-thought-out structure. This is why it turns out that when using cheap barrier films, even expensive insulation does not last long, and repairs are not far off.

Please note that the diffuse membrane should fit as tightly as possible to the insulation, without any gap, like with a regular film. Otherwise, the membrane material will cool more strongly, and the temperature will become lower than the steam migrating through the insulation. You will see the result in the form of ice directly on the membrane, which will cause it to lose its vapor-permeable properties even more.

When do you have to dismantle the roof?

Quite often during the construction process, roofing material or reinforced films are installed as roof waterproofing. And a couple of years later, when the attic turned out to be very necessary and everyone at home enthusiastically began to repair it, it turns out that without full analysis the roof won't work anymore.

What's the matter? The fact is that such waterproofing does not “breathe” at all, and any insulation under it will completely bend. That’s why, if the roof of your house is still under construction, but you are thinking about putting off insulating the attic for the future, immediately use a good super-diffuse membrane as waterproofing.

But how can something get into the insulation if we have already installed a vapor barrier? The fact is that not a single film in the world is capable of retaining water vapor 100% - they are very small. And no matter how hard manufacturers try, there is no absolute barrier. And even more: modern vapor barrier films in fact, they don’t even do half the job, and only the highest quality ones are able to retain steam by 75-80%. Everything else, unfortunately, penetrates inside the roofing pie.

Let's sum it up ogi. You should end up with a roofing pie with two films that have absolutely opposite properties: the inner one does not let steam into the insulation, and the second one saves it from a small amount that accidentally gets there.

Insulation of complex structural elements

If you have decided on insulation and insulation materials, congratulations! Prepare everything carefully, calculate everything you need and feel free to proceed. The main thing is to carry out installation work only in a well-ventilated area. And finally, when working with modern insulation materials Many manufacturers advise using a vacuum cleaner before insulating the attic roof from the inside, and after finishing.

It is not difficult to insulate pitched and straight attic walls, and the first difficulty you will encounter is windows and other complex elements designs. It is also important to properly insulate them, leaving no chance for moisture or water vapor to leak through. Do you know what are usually the most problematic places in attic rooms that cause mold and smudges? So take this issue seriously:

And finally, after insulating the attic, make sure that snow does not accumulate later in the drains and on the ridge - the entrance and exit of the movement of under-roof air. For this purpose, it is more rational to install ventilation pipes along the entire roof ridge, and make the ridge itself unventilated. That's all the difficulties!

not uncommon today. Increasing useful square meters using the attic is the easiest way. But in order for it to last throughout the year, the roof will have to be insulated. Therefore, in this article we will look at how to insulate an attic from the inside if the roof is already covered with roofing material. Let's figure out what thermal insulation materials can be used for this and what technologies to use for this.

And although many people believe that the attic is a type of attic, in fact, it is a completely different room, which differs in size from the first. And the main one is height. It must be at least 2.5 m.

In all other respects, this is an attic space, enclosed by a rafter system with a roof laid on it. If the roof is gable, then the attic is enclosed on both sides by gables - vertical walls, supporting the truss structure. It is in them that doors with access to the adjacent balcony are made. But the main walls of the room are the roof of the house with a certain slope of the slopes.

Assembly technology rafter system and roofing material is that it is necessary to lay between them, protecting wooden structures from unexpected leaks from the side of the roofing. This is a kind of safety net. On roofs, roll-type waterproofing material is mainly used, which is laid in strips from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap of 20-30 cm and attached to the rafter legs. The film is laid with a slight slack in case of thermal tension or expansion, plus the edges of adjacent strips must be secured with tape or self-adhesive tape.

Then they are stuffed along the rafters wooden slats, which are called counter-lattice, and transverse slats, called lathing, are mounted on them. The roofing material with fastening is laid on the latter.

The view from the inside of the attic shows rafters covered with a waterproofing layer on top. This is the design that will be needed. The question of how to properly insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands, we emphasize - with your own hands - requires first of all the determination of the insulation, or rather, its selection. Because not all modern thermal insulation materials can be used independently. But we will deal with them all, and we will definitely identify the best one.

Insulation for attic roofs

It should be noted that the slope of the slopes defining the walls of the attic is a cellular structure formed rafter legs. It is between them that the thermal insulation material will need to be laid. Therefore, the main requirement for the latter is to be dense with clear shapes. This means that to insulate the attic roof of a private house, you will need to choose a slab material. Such insulation materials include mineral wool in mats and polystyrene foam boards, also known as high-density foam.

But, as mentioned above, today the market offers completely unique technologies for insulation, in which dense materials are not used. One of them, who showed himself with the most positive side, this is liquid polyurethane foam. Let's start in order and consider each insulation separately.

Mineral wool

In definition mineral wool There are several varieties of this building material: glass wool, slag wool, stone variety. When the conversation turns to attic insulation, we should talk specifically about the basalt variety, as the best today. It is its technical characteristics that we will consider.

Basically, basalt wool is divided by density. There are four positions here:

• P-75– used for pipe insulation and horizontal surfaces;
• P-125– this is exactly the same material that is used to insulate attic walls from the inside with your own hands;
• PZh-175– for thermal insulation of metal and structures;
• PPZh-200– a very dense material used for thermal insulation of rigid load-bearing structures.

Expanded polystyrene boards

This material is often called polystyrene foam, which is true. It’s just that polystyrene foam boards differ in density from the type that is used for packaging. Therefore, the material itself is very hard and durable, resistant to mechanical stress and humidity.

Let us immediately make a reservation that such material is not recommended for insulation due to its high flammability and love of rodents. But if you still intend to use it, then to insulate the attic roof it is better to take polystyrene foam boards with a density of at least 25 kg/m³.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is a two-component thermal insulation material consisting of a polyol and a polyisocyanate. The two components are supplied separately in different containers, but during the application process they are mixed in one container and applied under pressure to the insulation areas through a hose and sprayer. In fact, polyurethane foam is a liquid substance that quickly hardens in air, turning into a hard and fairly durable coating.

The quality of insulation is based on the thermal conductivity characteristic. Comparing the three types, it can be noted that the weakest among them is mineral wool, the most ideal is polyurethane foam.

But this does not mean that everyone should use PPU. This material is not the cheapest and requires special equipment to apply it. However, it should be noted that equipment manufacturers today offer mini-stations that weigh only 30 kg. It contains two containers with components, hoses and a nozzle. The compressor will need to be purchased separately, but it is better to rent it from friends or rent.

And several more types of thermal insulation materials, which are used less frequently when insulating a roof from the inside with your own hands.

Glass wool

Ecowool

Penofol

How to insulate an attic for winter living - video and nuances of the process

So, we’ve decided on thermal insulation materials. Now let's look at how to properly insulate an attic roof.

Attention! When insulating an attic, it is necessary to adhere to two main nuances: the thickness of the layer being laid should be equal to the width of the rafter legs, the width of the insulation should be equal to slightly greater than the distance between the rafters.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic with mineral wool from the inside: video and photo instructions

Photo	Description of work
	The mineral wool is laid out on the attic floor. The required width is measured, which corresponds to the distance between the rafters, plus 2-3 cm. This is done so that the insulation fits tightly between the elements of the rafter system without leaving.
	Now a piece of insulation cut to the required dimensions must be laid between the rafter legs. If the slope of the roof slope is sufficiently flat, then the heat-insulating material under its own weight may fall out of the cell.
	Therefore, transverse slats are placed along the rafters from the inside, which are temporarily attached to the rafter legs.
	Instead of slats, you can use a strong thread, which is pulled over nails driven in a checkerboard pattern along the inner planes of the rafter legs.
	Insulation is laid under the padded slats.
	All that remains is to close the insulating pie waterproofing film. Its purpose is to keep moist air vapors from penetrating the thermal insulation layer. Because mineral wool is a hygroscopic material, and under the influence of humidity it begins to lose its properties.
	The waterproofing membrane is nailed with nails or metal staples to the rafter legs. Laying is carried out in overlapping stripes, starting from bottom to top.

Attention! If one layer of mineral wool for insulating the attic roof from the inside with your own hands is not enough to cover the width of the rafter legs, then a two-layer installation is performed. In this case, the slabs of material must be laid offset relative to each other. The joints between slabs in one layer should not be allowed to coincide with the joints in the second layer.

Insulating the attic with foam plastic

As mentioned above, it is not recommended to use polystyrene foam boards to insulate the attic. One of their main advantages is low, almost zero, water absorption. Therefore, there is no need to install protective layers for this insulation. That is, if during the construction of the roof under the roofing material hydro- or vapor barrier membrane, then PP slabs are the cheapest option for thermal insulation.

Photo	Description of work
	As in the case of mineral wool, polystyrene foam boards are cut to fit the distance between the rafters.
	The slabs, cut to size, are laid in the rafter system. It is necessary to indicate that there should be a space between the insulation and the roofing material, which will be used in the future as a means of removing not only moist air vapors, but also some harmful components of the heat-insulating material itself. Without forming this gap, PP cannot be laid.
	Another layer is laid on top of the rafters. Its main task is to cover the entire surface and prevent cold air from passing between the first layer and the rafters, because it is very difficult to lay PP boards tightly to the rafter structure. The second layer is attached to the rafters using self-tapping screws with a wide metal washer.

Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a material with a high adhesion rate. He meshes perfectly with everyone building materials. Therefore, there is no need to prepare anything for it. They simply assemble the installation under the attic roof, connect the parts with hoses, open the valves, and turn on the compressor. And they begin to apply the material in layers until it is completely filled between the rafters. To make it clearer, watch the video below:

Before insulating an attic roof with polyurethane foam, be sure to familiarize yourself with the foam application technology. Here are just a few nuances.

1. When applying a thermal insulation layer, you need to take care of the ventilation of the attic.
2. The worker must wear protective equipment: goggles, gloves, safety shoes and overalls.
3. It is very important to mix the insulation components correctly; their ratio should be 1:1.

Insulation of roofs of different geometries

Thermal insulation methods have been described above. pitched roof, in which the slope is one plane. But attics are also formed under sloping roofs, so the question of insulating a sloping roof from the inside is no less relevant today. In principle, there are no serious differences in the technology itself, especially when it comes to the use of polyurethane foam. It is simply sprayed in one layer, without joints.

U sloping roof there is a junction between two types of rafters, which form a hall. It is this area that is the most dangerous in terms of the penetration of cold air from the outside. Therefore, in the area where the two systems are connected, it is necessary to lay insulation materials without butts. This works best if mineral wool is used. It is flexible, so it can be shaped into a bend, that is, a transition from one slope to another.

With a sloping roof, the attic space is rarely left without a ceiling. It is built precisely at the transition level. Therefore, two slopes located in the same transitional plane are insulated, and then the ceiling itself is necessarily insulated. In some cases, if it is difficult to carry out thermal insulation of the upper slope or the goal is to save money, then the thermal insulation of the upper slope is not carried out, limiting itself to insulating the ceiling.

What mistakes can occur when insulating an attic from the inside?

Answering the question of how to properly insulate the roof of a house from the inside attic room with your own hands, you need to understand that on your own this process simple (except for the use of polyurethane foam). But in order for the final result to correspond to a high degree of quality, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of the technology and strictly follow the recommendations of specialists and manufacturers of thermal insulation materials. So, what to pay attention to:

1. Mineral wool should only be laid if there is a vapor barrier underneath the roofing material. Its main purpose is to remove air vapors that are located in the insulation itself.
2. There must be a gap between the thermal insulation cake and the roofing covering, which is used for ventilation of the roof. Therefore, the roofing material is laid on the sheathing, which is mounted on the counter-lattice.
3. If the angle of inclination of the slopes is less than 13°, then it is better not to organize an attic under such a roof. at this angle it comes off weakly, so there is a high probability of leaks.
4. If skylights are installed on roof slopes, care must be taken to install them airtight. It’s better not to do this yourself; call specialists.
5. If the thickness of the purchased insulation is greater than the width of the rafter legs, then slats can be punched along the lower edges of the latter.

So, we looked at how to properly insulate the roof of a private house from the attic side. If you have any questions, you can leave them in the comments. The editors of our site will definitely answer them.

The attic in the house is a space with great potential. It has a spacious area to serve as a place for storing things or seasonal recreation, and a non-trivial shape that can become the basis for the implementation design ideas. Not using its capabilities is a big omission.

Organize space attic floor Can different ways. But the most rational of them is arrangement for living quarters. This will help self-insulation attics from the inside. The choice of material and the order of work will also not be difficult after a detailed consideration of the characteristics of the materials and the insulation process.

Why insulate?

A good, warm attic has a number of advantages over an uninsulated floor:

• Can be used as a living space all year round.
• An uninteresting shape is suitable for interior design in an unusual style.
• The upper floor, due to its isolation and unusualness, can serve as a bedroom, office or children's room. Of course, children especially like it in the attic.
• Dormer windows are designed differently than regular ones and let in a lot of light. This is useful if there is a children's room there, and is also suitable for other purposes, because natural lighting is always better than artificial lighting.
• When transferring the function of any room in the house to the attic floor, a lot of usable space is freed up.

At the same time, insulating the attic, despite the name, also works in the opposite direction. Summer stuffiness and heat concentrated under the roof of a house are not the best companions for comfort. To prevent the air in the attic floor from heating up because the sun heats the roof all day, thermal insulation is needed.

Many people forget about this when choosing to insulate the attic from the inside, and instead of a room for all-season use, they get an option for wintering. In summer it is impossible to be there due to high temperatures and stuffy air.

Why insulate the attic is clear: increase the usable area of ​​the house by turning the attic into a living space. The exact type of room this will be depends on the individual needs of the family. There can be a greenhouse, a dining room (which is very convenient, since it will be easy to arrange a hood, and the smells of food will definitely not penetrate into other rooms), a children's room, a bedroom, an office, a room for pets, a dressing room, a guest room.

Roof design options

The convenience of an attic for living largely depends on its size and the shape of the roof, which forms the walls and ceiling of the room. The complexity of the insulation procedure is also influenced by the shape. The type of roof is laid during construction in accordance with the design of the building.

In total, there are about a dozen types of roofing, to one degree or another suitable for arranging an attic:

• Single-pitch. The slope can be on the left or on right side. This is determined by the scheme of the future house, developed in accordance with building codes. This type of roof is not the best, but also not the most inconvenient option for a living space. At least one half of the attic is suitable for a person to fit in it at full height and be able to move freely. The second can be reserved for organizing storage systems or a bed.

• Gable or gable. Available in both symmetrical and asymmetrical versions. In an attic of this type, all free space is concentrated in the place where the roof has the highest point. There is less and less of it under the slopes, and if the slope is flat, then most of the area will not be used.
• Hip. A roof with four slopes: two in the shape of a trapezoid, two in the shape of beveled triangles.

• Tent. A type of hip roof that is built over the base of a square-shaped house. All 4 slopes in this case have the same appearance of beveled triangles.
• Half-hip. This is a type of gable roof in which, for practical purposes, the side slopes on the gable part are cut off. It is more convenient for arranging the attic floor than the previous two options.
• Half-hip is slightly less common hipped roof. Its pediment parts are formed by windows, and slopes are located under them.

• Mansard roof. It is considered optimal because it is closest to the cherished U-shaped shape of a living space. Such a roof does not impose any restrictions on the arrangement of functional areas inside the attic floor. It can easily accommodate a child’s room, which can later be converted into his own office or bedroom.
• Broken or multi-pincer. These are options for complex design ideas. It is impossible to say unequivocally how suitable they are for arranging a warm attic, since their shape can be very diverse. But those types that are most similar to the U-shape are definitely suitable for this purpose.

Load calculation according to SNiP

When it comes to attic insulation, it is necessary to consider several types of SNiP: general rules for arranging residential premises and rules for choosing materials for thermal insulation of a residential structure.

• Calculation of the load on the load-bearing structures of the building. Own weight and thickness of materials, decorative finishing, interior design Attics significantly increase the load on supporting structures in any type of house. Each option has its own maximum permissible load, but planned changes should not exceed it.

• Correct assessment of erected structures. To reconstruct a house, which in many cases will include converting an attic into a residential attic, you need legal grounds. Each case is individual.

In one, if the documents are completed correctly and the construction of the house occurs immediately with the attic, it can be remodeled in any way without unnecessary red tape.

In a private house, the construction of an attic depends only on the height of the floors and compliance with load standards on supporting structures; in an apartment building, it is important to take into account its status. If this is an architectural monument, the construction of an attic will not be legalized.

• Compliance with sanitary and hygienic standards. They regulate the minimum height of the attic space, the degree of its illumination and insolation - protection from ultraviolet rays.
• Number of floors in the house. Building codes allow a maximum of three floors, while basements and semi-basements that protrude more than a meter above the ground are also considered. If, after insulating the attic, it becomes a full-fledged living space and the fourth floor in the house, then such a building will be considered illegal. In theory, it is subject to demolition.

• Fire resistance level. It is measured in minutes and in most positions is:

1. for lower floors 60 minutes,
2. for the attic - 30, since the fire spreads upward and the risk of fire on the lower floors from the attic is less.

When arranging an attic, especially a wooden one, as a living space, you need to meet all the requirements: treat the wood with special impregnations that prevent the spread of flame, choose fire-resistant materials, and lay out communications in a high-quality manner.

It is also important to calculate which layer is needed when using different materials. As a rule, the recommended thickness and density of polystyrene foam, mineral wool, polyurethane foam or foam glass is indicated by the manufacturer or GOST for a specific material.

Review of materials: pros and cons

The materials themselves construction market offers in abundance. However, insulation alone is not enough, since The technology involves the layer-by-layer use of materials for various purposes:

• Material for roofing and walls. These are the elements from which the base of the attic space is formed. The walls of the house can be wooden, brick, block. For the roof, choose corrugated sheets, ondulin, slate, metal tiles or ceramic tiles.
• Bars for counter-lattice. The timber used is wooden and mounted on the rafters. The counter grille is necessary to create air circulation to prevent condensation from forming under the roof sheet material.

• Windproofing and waterproofing. Polypropylene and polyethylene films, various non-woven roll materials. Priority is given to films with anti-condensation coating. They are laid with an overlap of 20-25 cm between the beams and the roofing material, and glued together.
• Thermal insulation. Various types of insulation, which are laid at a distance of 25 cm from the waterproofing film under slate or tiles, and 45-50 cm under sheet materials.
• Vapor barrier. It is necessary on the outside of the insulation to protect it from vapors and moisture contained in the indoor air. Various film and foil materials are used to prevent the formation of condensation and the greenhouse effect.

• Internal lathing. Decorative finishing ceiling and walls. In some cases, when the height of the roof allows, you can “hem” the ceiling. The air space between it and the roof will make thermal insulation more effective.

If there are no questions with most of the points, then the choice of insulation is the most crucial moment. Its choice is wide, which is both a plus and a minus, since it is necessary to evaluate a large number of options.

Insulate the attic:

• sawdust;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• basalt type of wool;
• polyurethane foam plates (PPU);
• extruded foam;
• penoplex;
• foam glass;
• construction foam;
• foil and heat-reflecting material.

Using sawdust for thermal insulation is a proven and effective method. It is cheap, the mixtures are prepared by hand, but with the availability of alternative materials, the method is already outdated. A lot of time is spent, working with sawdust is clean, but unpleasant, and the flooring will not be durable. Ecological cleanliness in this case is most likely not beneficial, because wood fibers are an excellent medium for the reproduction of organisms.

Ordinary polystyrene foam is also a thing of the past. It has a number of advantages: light weight, low price, ease of installation alone, fairly long service life, good insulating properties. But the disadvantages are still significant: fragility and fragility, retains moisture inside, a suitable environment for the reproduction of living organisms, you need thick layer material.

Mineral wool is a more relevant insulation material. Its advantages:

• high thermal insulation coefficient;
• resistant to moisture, chemicals and alkalis;
• provides good ventilation in the room;
• helps improve sound insulation;
• high fire resistance coefficient;
• long service life;
• strength;
• safe for residential use.

Flaws:

• If the waterproofing and vapor barrier layers are poorly organized and precipitation gets on the material, mineral wool loses several percent of its thermal conductivity.
• Capable of accumulating dust over time.
• High-quality mineral wool is quite expensive, but is environmentally friendly. There are often fakes on the market in which the formaldehyde content exceeds the norm. They are harmful to health and are prohibited for use in residential areas.

Ecowool in its essence consists of cellulose fibers in three-quarters of the composition, and the remaining share consists of substances that allow the use of cellulose as a building material - these are borax and boric acid. They increase the fire resistance of cotton wool and prevent the appearance of microorganisms, fungi, and rot.

The advantages include the good ability of the insulation to retain heat in the room, not to interfere with ventilation, high-quality insulating properties, natural and safe raw materials based on ecowool.

The material also has a disadvantage, and a significant one. Ecowool is not produced in the form of slabs or sheets; it is a loose fiber that must be applied wet using special equipment. And to work with the equipment you will need qualified installers.

In addition to ecowool foreign manufacturers They also offer other types of insulation based on plant fibers: eco-leen and cotton fabric insulation.

Another type of cotton wool is basalt. It is related to mineral. Since its components are present in the composition, but the basis of the material is basalt rock. Basalt imparts unique qualities to the material.

Its advantages:

• components of organic origin without formaldehyde and harmful resins;
• thermal insulation qualities, noise insulation;
• does not ignite, does not support combustion;
• biostable;
• the plates are convenient and easy to use;
• serves for decades.

Flaws:

• high cost of insulation square meter basalt slabs;
• absorbs moisture well.

The third type of wool – glass wool – has similar characteristics. It is more convenient to use because the material is rolled.

Extruded polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam combines the qualities and advantages of mineral boards and conventional foam plastic, thanks to a special production technology.

Its performance characteristics are mostly positive:

• lightweight but durable - this allows you to use it for insulation in large quantities, or simply work with it alone;
• the closed pores of the material are moisture resistant;
• easy to cut into fragments, it is unbreakable and does not crumble;
• does not arouse interest as a habitat for either fungi or rodents;
• low cost.

The disadvantages include: vapor permeability, low fire resistance.

To the group gas-filled plastics The new generation also includes polyurethane foam (PPU). Its advantages make the material one of the best for insulating the attic floor: it is lightweight, moisture-resistant and fire-resistant, does not accumulate dust, does not attract living organisms, and is very durable.

There are two types: sheet and sprayed. Sheet material is very convenient in that it does not crumble during the cutting of fragments and the part fits closely to the part. The sprayed type of protection creates a monolithic layer under the roof, due to which it is not afraid of precipitation and cold. It also has good adhesion to various surfaces, is resistant to the appearance of microorganisms and allows installation work to be carried out in the shortest possible time.

The sprayed material creates better thermal insulation and helps muffle extraneous sounds, but it has two serious drawbacks. Firstly, application will require the expensive service of professionals with special equipment. Secondly, it is so dense that it “does not breathe.” Humid and stuffy air will accumulate in the room if it was not possible to organize additional ventilation.

It is advisable to use both types of polyurethane foam simultaneously. Large areas are covered with sheet material, and hard to reach places and cracks are treated by spraying. This will completely solve the problem of even the coldest attic.

Foam glass is a rarely used and unfairly relegated material to the background. The reason for this is simple - the very high price. Foam glass, as the name suggests, is produced by foaming glass fiber. The result is a porous (cellular) material that is absolutely insensitive to fire, safe, durable and meets all the requirements for insulation. If financial capabilities allow, then foam glass as thermal insulation should be considered first.

A separate group from plastic and glass derivatives are foil materials for insulating rooms from the inside. By themselves they have a small thickness, so they are often combined with various variations foamed cellular materials that are located inside between two layers of foil.

The advantages of reflective materials are obvious:

• Light weight and small thickness. An attic is rarely large, especially considering that its dimensions are hidden by the shape of the roof, and a 20 mm foil sheet is much more practical than 200 mm foam.
• The material is easy to cut, does not crumble, and does not slip on the surface.
• There are options for self-adhesive sheets, in which one side is covered with a reflective layer and the other with an adhesive adhesive. They greatly simplify installation work.
• Foil is an excellent heat reflector. Thanks to its abilities, in the cold season the heat does not escape from the room, and in hot weather it remains outside.
• Reflective coatings are hydrophobic; they simply repel water.
• This is at the same time insulation from precipitation, dust, wind, and cold.
• Despite the minimal thickness, it copes with the function of sound insulation.
• Elastic and flexible.
• Biostable.
• They do not release toxins or formaldehyde when heated.
• Durable.

How to choose?

Choosing suitable insulation is an important stage in arranging a living space on the attic floor.

There are several important factors to consider:

• Taking into account climatic conditions. If severe frosts rage in the region during the cold season, you need to choose cellular or porous insulation. Its structure allows warm air fill empty spaces and keep the room warm. This works like PVC profiles and double glazing on windows. The more layers of cells, the better material, so the layer thickness should be more than 1-2 cm.
• For regions with high humidity the hydrophobicity of the material comes first. All types of cotton wool are undesirable here, but derivatives of polyethylene and plastic will be just right. You can safely use polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam.
• When there is a large amount of precipitation in winter, which puts a load on the roof, lightweight materials are preferred. For example, foam and foil.

• Accounting for moisture and fire resistance indicators. Even if the climate is not full of rain, protecting the insulation from moisture is very important. Wet material ceases to perform its functions, as its thermal conductivity changes, and gains weight.
• As for fire safety, it is rather compliance with all SNiP standards. Choosing a fire-resistant material is not difficult. Most manufacturers add substances called fire retardants to organic raw materials for the production of insulation. They prevent the spread of fire.

• The ability of a material to hold its shape. Measured as modulus of elasticity and resistance to deformation. It depends on this whether it will create monolithic, reliable protection or will begin to sag and drafts and ventilated places will appear in the room. The undisputed leaders in this regard are not sheet materials, but sprayed materials.
• Material coefficients for several characteristics: thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, sound insulation index.
• Composition of the substance. To furnish a living room in the attic, it is recommended to use environmentally friendly materials, without resins, formaldehydes and toxic substances. Various impregnations are acceptable if their availability meets the requirements of GOST.

The type of materials used to finish the roof also matters.

Under metal tiles

It is correct to insulate the attic ceiling under such material using a layer that is not afraid of moisture. The design and installation features of metal tiles are such that water can get under them. It is optimal here to use foam materials based on plastic or glass, but if the choice falls on mineral wool, it is important to take care of a good layer of waterproofing.

It is also necessary to choose a material with an anti-condensation coating. After condensation reaches a certain temperature, it will also turn into water, which is dangerous for the insulating layer. The problem can be solved using polypropylene films, geotextile coatings and superdiffuse membranes.

The disadvantages of metal tiles include the fact that they unusual shape allows precipitation to accumulate between layers of coating, which is almost impossible to make completely sealed. High-quality ventilation under the roof will help minimize the damage from this. Natural in this case may not be enough; it is necessary to arrange a forced one.

Such problems also apply to ceramic relief coating and slate sheets. They all have the same shape, which does not allow the sheets to fit tightly.

Under corrugated sheets

It is less problematic in terms of leaks and condensation, since the sheets fit more tightly, and the joints are treated with sealant and paint. But the material has its own characteristics. Firstly, it is very cold and the insulation must be of high quality and impressive in thickness. Secondly, when it rains, it is very noisy under a corrugated roof; you need a material with high sound absorption rates.

From the list suitable materials It is necessary to exclude thin foil sheets, fiberglass, and cellulose insulation of the eco-friendly type. Their thickness and sound insulation performance are insufficient to ensure comfortable living in the attic under corrugated roofing.

For the attic above the bathhouse

Along with the type of roofing materials, you need to take into account the location of the attic: either it is located above all the living spaces, or above part of the house.

One of the problematic options is the attic above the bathhouse. With this location, it is difficult to arrange a living space in it. It is more suitable for a relaxation room, a small living room or a play corner, which is necessary after bath procedures.

The main difficulty when choosing materials lies in the microclimate of the room above the bathhouse, which is different from the microclimate above living rooms. The temperature and humidity conditions in it are unstable, and the possibility of condensation is very high. Of course, under such conditions, neither sawdust, nor cotton wool, nor environmental insulation based on cellulose are suitable. This requires hydrophobic materials such as polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam, foil coatings, good vapor barrier forced ventilation.

Winter living houses

There is no universal solution for insulating the attic for winter living. It all depends on the climatic conditions and materials used in the construction of the house.

Long and harsh winters - solid, porous, temperature-resistant insulation. Warm climate - any suitable roofing material.

In a private wooden house, due to the properties of wood, thin insulation is sufficient to retain heat. Materials based on cellulose, glass or plastic are also suitable. You can use foil ones with a minimum thickness.

In brick houses with roofs made of corrugated sheets, tiles or slate, additional insulation in the form of air spaces is required. It may be tight porous materials and several layers between them. Insulation frame house does not require special efforts, since its design already provides for all the features of specific climatic conditions. Any moisture-resistant and fire-resistant materials are suitable here.

How to insulate with your own hands?

The technology for creating thermal insulation in the attic is also available to non-professionals. The key to success is not experience installation work, and in correct selection material, consistent implementation of actions to create a continuous insulated contour and accuracy.

The procedure is as follows:

• Calculation of permissible load and optimal material thickness.
• Selection of materials and necessary tools(including safety equipment).
• Preparation of the premises: cleaning, dust removal, treatment of wooden structures with protective impregnations.
• Installation of sheathing. This is an important and mandatory step that amateurs skip out of ignorance. Thermal insulation of an attic without lathing and counter-lattice is considered a gross mistake. It is nailed from the inside over the entire roof area.
• Laying a waterproofing film or diffuse membrane. The fastening should not be tight; it is better to let the material sag a little. The sheets are overlapped (15-25cm) and secured with tape or foil. A gap of 20 to 50 cm is required between the membrane and the sheathing.
• Installation of insulation. The methods are different, depending on the type of material and the location of the rafters. Rolled material can be attached with a slight overlap and fixed with tape or a stapler. Sheet insulation for finishing the roof and walls is laid closely, taking into account slight shrinkage in the future. The connection is made as close as possible, the seams are treated with tape. You can use screws and nails for very dense materials.

It is important to fit well in the corners of the gable and on such difficult areas, like a ridge, valley, overhangs. To do this, small parts of the material are used, separated by hand.

Particular attention is paid to the contour of the windows. The room will remain cold if warm air escapes through the cracks near the window.

The sequence is as follows: insulation of the roof, ceilings, pediment, partitions, walls. The floor can be insulated both before and after.

Floor insulation is more variable, since it is less affected by precipitation, winds and frost.

This can be dry backfill, sawdust, or mineral wool:

• Installation of vapor barrier. It is laid overlapping, like a membrane, and fixed in different ways. As a rule, there is a line on the material marking the width of the junction of two sheets.
• Lathing if necessary.
• Decorative finishing.

Common mistakes

The correct thermal pie for roof insulation is installed in compliance with many nuances.

Non-professionals often make the same mistakes that affect the quality of attic insulation:

• lack of ventilation gap from the ceiling to the membrane. As a result, the insulation freezes and stops working;
• severe sagging of the membrane - this reduces the gap required for ventilation and leads to the formation of condensation;
• attempts to save on insulating materials, laying them without the necessary joints, as a result of which gaps are formed and heat escapes outside, warming the roof, not the room;

• compacting the material to such an extent that it warps and wrinkles, losing its properties;
• unlined cornices - this leads to the fact that precipitation has free access to the insulation and saturates it with moisture;
• lack of ventilation;
• absence of adhesive tape or tape at the joints of sheet material.

1. Use hard and dense materials or spraying. They are better fixed and do not deform in the process.
2. Increasing the distance between the attic ceiling and the top point of the ridge will create an “air cushion” and improve the quality of the warm circuit.
3. It is better to leave a gap for ventilation not only between the sheathing and the membrane, but also between the membrane and the insulation.

When choosing insulation for the attic, it is important to consider several factors that determine its safe and effective service:

1. Thermal conductivity. A key indicator that determines the choice of thermal insulation material. Shows how much heat a material can transmit per unit of time. The unit of measurement is W/(m×°K).
2. The ability of a material to pass moisture or water vapor through itself. The attic requires the most “breathable” material.
3. Safety. Considering that the attic is insulated from the inside, the safety of the material comes to the fore. It should not emit an unpleasant odor or release substances into the air that negatively affect the human mucous membrane.
4. Easy to install. When insulating an attic floor at home, you need the material itself to be convenient and easy to install, not requiring special or expensive equipment.
5. Lifetime. Most thermal insulation materials are designed to last up to 50 years. This suits us.
6. Fire safety. Again, taking into account the design features of the attic room, it is important that the material for insulation is as non-flammable as possible - it does not support combustion and releases a minimum of toxic substances when melted.
7. Density. Material with higher density has more weight. Weighting the rafter system in the attic does not lead to anything good. It is better to pay attention to insulation with a lower density. Although, almost all thermal insulation materials on the market are light and airy, so this factor comes last when choosing.

When choosing how to insulate the attic from the inside and going to a hardware store, you will see an incredible picture. The choice is simply huge - there are a great variety of materials, brands, sizes, shapes. How to find the right one among them in order to insulate the attic efficiently, relatively inexpensively and for a long time? Let's figure it out together. Let's consider each type of material separately and weigh its positive and negative sides in relation to the insulation of the attic space.

We will not provide detailed technical characteristics of these materials. Our goal is to determine how suitable they are for attic insulation. So, we make a choice of insulation for the attic from the most popular ones.

Mineral wool

It can rightfully be called the “queen” among other materials. It is widespread in all regions of Russia and the CIS. Why has it become so widespread? It is easy to manufacture, transport and install. It is non-flammable and has high thermal performance.

Mineral wool can be divided into several main types that are found on sale today:

• slag;
• stone (or basalt) wool;
• glass wool (glass).

Although on average their characteristics are similar, there are still some that will help us choose among them the one that is more suitable for attic insulation.

To make it easier to determine how to insulate the attic from the inside, we will follow the sequence of characteristics defined above that each material listed has.

Slag wool (slag wool)

Made from blast furnace waste. Has an airy structure. The fibers are held together by a binder.

Thermal conductivity. It fluctuates between 0.046 - 0.048 W/(m×°K). This indicator is accurate in the case of high-quality waterproofing with slag wool.

Hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Due to its structure, slag wool has high vapor permeability and hygroscopicity. Needs high-quality vapor and waterproofing.

Safety. The material itself is safe. At in good condition does not emit harmful substances. During installation, special clothing and eye and respiratory protection are required. The fibers are short in length and can cause irritation.

Easy to install. Installation is as simple as possible due to its flexibility and uniform thickness.

Lifetime. Manufacturers claim 50 years. This figure greatly depends on the quality of installation, waterproofing and the quality of the slag wool itself.

Fire safety. The maximum permissible temperature is 300°C. It is quite acceptable for an attic roof, given the fact that the ignition temperature of wood is from 320°C. Does not support combustion.

Density. Low, airy structure. Good air permeability. Lightweight, will not create a load on the roof structure.

Peculiarities. Mainly used for insulation of production workshops and premises where there is good ventilation. The blast furnace slag and harmful binders contained in the composition create a danger to human health. May react with metal in roof structure. Although this is usually irrelevant for the attic.

Conclusion. For attic insulation, slag wool is not the best choice due to its composition and effect on human health.

Stone wool (basalt)

Made from basalt or similar rocks. Has an airy structure. Available in rolls or mats.

Thermal conductivity. It ranges from 0.076 to 0.12 W/(m×°K).

Hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. The indicators are similar to slag. Like any type of mineral wool, it has high vapor conductivity. Needs protection from water, otherwise it loses its properties.

Safety. The safest of all the types of mineral wool considered. Fibers up to 16 mm long and up to 12 microns thick. However, when working with it, it is advisable to wear a protective suit, respirator, goggles and gloves. The higher the density, the less it disintegrates during operation and the dusting of the room by small fibers of cotton wool is reduced.

Easy to install. Installation is convenient, given the density. The denser, the easier it is to install on vertical or sloping surfaces. Particularly suitable for pitched mansard roofs.

Lifetime. Up to 50 years old. Much depends on proper installation and, most importantly, on hydro- and vapor barrier.

Fire safety. The maximum permissible heating temperature is 600°C. Very well suited for a wooden attic rafter system. If you carry out high-quality installation in 2 layers with overlap, you can completely protect the wooden elements of the roof from fire.

Density. It ranges from extremely low, for installation in walls, to maximum density for use in insulating building facades from the outside. Medium density is suitable for attic insulation.

Peculiarities. Relatively expensive type of insulation. The price is due to high health safety indicators. The denser, the more expensive. Has high sound insulation rates.

Conclusion. Insulating the attic with stone wool - perfect solution. In all respects, it is ideal for the role of insulation for a residential attic floor from the inside. The only point is that the material is more expensive than others.

Glass wool (glass wool)

The most common of all types of cotton wool. This is often what is meant when people talk about mineral wool. It is made from waste from the glassblowing industry, broken glass and silicon. Cheaper than stone wool.

Thermal conductivity. In the range from 0.029 to 0.050 W/(m×°K). This low figure is due to the structure. The thinnest fibers, with a thickness of 4 microns.

Hygroscopicity and vapor permeability. Hygroscopic when moisture gets inside from the air. If water just gets in from the roof, it drains without penetrating into the material due to special hydrophobic additives. High vapor permeability, which makes it suitable insulation for the attic.

Safety. When installing, extreme care is required to prevent brittle glass fibers from coming into contact with the skin, respiratory tract or eyes. The best protection would be a special suit that covers the entire body, goggles, tight-fitting eyes (like swimming gloves) and rubber gloves.

If glass wool gets on your skin, it should be washed off only with cold water. Hot water expands the pores of the skin and the fibers penetrate deeper, causing even more itching.

Easy to install. The material is produced in rolls and mats. To insulate the attic, it is more convenient to install mats, because this can be done by one person. Rolls are more suitable for horizontal surfaces, for example, for insulating a technological attic above the ceiling of an attic room.

Lifetime. 50 years. Can decrease sharply with poor waterproofing. Especially if the wool is installed in vertical or inclined planes, where it can slide under its own weight.

Fire safety. Permissible temperature heating - 450°C. An acceptable indicator for use in insulating an attic roof.

Density. The density is similar to slag. Denser mats are used for external insulation.

Peculiarities. It is made of glass, so proper installation is the key to safe living in the attic. Properly taped vapor barrier joints will protect residents from small fibers that will inevitably separate from the bulk of the insulation. Mice love mineral wool, although in most cases it contains poison for them.

Conclusion. Many professional builders recommend using mineral wool for attic insulation. The combination of price, quality, ease of installation and thermal characteristics makes mineral wool the No. 1 choice for many owners of houses with an attic floor.

Other materials

The rest we include ecowool, sprayed polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam and extruded foam. These materials are not bad in themselves. But they are not suitable for insulating an attic with your own hands. Why?

Ecowool - special equipment required;

Spray polyurethane foam - requires special equipment, although it can be used;

Extruded foam plastic is even less suitable for internal insulation of the attic floor than polystyrene foam. The main reason is low vapor permeability.

Let's sum it up

In short, stone or glass wool is more suitable for insulating an attic. It is vapor permeable, easy to install and has high performance. The thickness of the insulation for the attic must be at least 200mm. In some cold regions of Russia this figure is increased to 350 mm, i.e. 7 layers of insulation.

Now, understanding the best way to insulate an attic from the inside, and what materials to use, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.

The use of attic spaces for residential purposes has long become commonplace for most domestic developers. Due to this, it is possible to obtain a completely comfortable living space at minimal financial costs. True, for a comfortable stay one very important condition must be fulfilled - properly insulating the roof. This is the only way to not only minimize heat losses during the heating season, but also maintain favorable microclimate in the rooms.

Currently, the construction industry produces a large assortment insulation materials with high heat saving rates. To make it easier to accept optimal solution, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the performance characteristics of each of them.

Builders use two methods of insulating attic roofs, each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Insulation from outside

The arrangement of the roofing pie occurs in the following sequence: installation of the rafter system, vapor barrier from the attic, laying insulation, waterproofing (wind protection), sheathing and counter-lattice, roofing materials.

The advantages of this method This includes the ability to qualitatively control each technological operation and, if problems are detected, correct them in a timely manner.

But there is also a serious drawback. If it rains while laying the insulation (mineral wool), then very big troubles will arise. Cotton wool quickly absorbs a lot of water, and dries without dismantling for a very long time. The only best option is to take out the materials and dry them on a level area. But during dismantling, a lot of mineral wool is damaged and needs to be replaced, and this significantly increases the cost of the roof.

And one more problem. Wet wool bends so much that there is a possibility of damage to the integrity of the vapor barrier. This layer must be sealed, otherwise moisture freely enters the insulation with all the extremely negative consequences.

Insulation from the inside

The order of arrangement of the roofing pie changes. After the construction of the rafter system, waterproofing, sheathing and counter-lattice are laid and roofing materials are installed. You can take a big break here - attic space completely protected from precipitation.

Builders are quietly doing other things internal works, further insulation does not depend on the weather and can be performed at any convenient time. Insulation is installed from the attic side, fixed in the niches between the rafters and sealed with a vapor barrier layer.

How is vapor barrier different from waterproofing? What kind of material is vapor barrier and wind protection? Why choose membranes? Find answers to these questions in the article on our website. Peculiarities various materials and rules for their installation.

The advantage is obvious - precipitation does not affect negative influence on the quality and timing of construction warm roof. The only, and even very conditional, drawback is that it is difficult to control the gap between the wind protection and the insulation. But this is not critical for two reasons:

1. First, experienced roofers have their own methods for checking the distance between insulation and wind protection.
2. Secondly, there are the most modern membranes that can be laid close to mineral wool, and their effectiveness is not reduced by this.

Several types of materials can be used to insulate an attic roof. The specific choice should take into account the cost of insulation, the climatic zone of the building and the wishes of the customer.

What materials can be used to insulate an attic roof?

A wide selection of insulation materials puts inexperienced developers in a difficult position. It is difficult for them to find objective information; each manufacturer intensively advertises only its products. Moreover, advertising is often not entirely truthful. In the table below we will try to give objective performance characteristics of each type of insulation material.

Type of insulation	Description of physical and operational properties
	Quite a frequently used material for insulating various structural elements of a building. There are species that are highly resistant to open fire and do not exceed permissible sanitary standards discharge chemical compounds. Such parameters made it possible to use this material in housing construction, although not in all architectural elements building. The advantages of polystyrene foam are low cost, high manufacturability, complete absence of water absorption. The latter property makes it possible to achieve significant additional financial savings on roof insulation - there is no need to install a vapor barrier, counter lathing for ventilation of the under-roof space and wind protection (hydroprotection). Disadvantage - for unknown reasons, this material is severely damaged by rodents, because of this it is necessary to provide a special set of measures to prevent them from getting into the thermal insulation layer, but this is not difficult to do, the materials are cheap.
	The insulation is made on the basis of foam plastic, the difference is increased strength parameters. For insulation of attic roofs physical strength doesn't matter, but because of this, polystyrene foam costs much more than polystyrene foam. Another disadvantage is that increased strength increases thermal conductivity; therefore, extruded polystyrene foam is inferior to polystyrene foam in terms of roof insulation efficiency.
	Recently it has become very popular among developers, but some professional builders are very critical of this material. There are two positive qualities for mineral wool: high stability to open fire and completely environmentally safe. But these advantages can be considered conditional for several reasons. ● Firstly, if there is a big fire, then it makes no difference how the attic roof is insulated; in any case, the house will completely burn down. ● Secondly, the inside of the attic room is finished with dense materials, which completely eliminates the penetration of harmful chemical substances inside the rooms. You need to know that aldehydes are released not only by polystyrene foam, but also by all plastic products, furniture varnish, etc. But no one lacquered furniture does not take outside, is not afraid of aldehydes. The disadvantages of mineral wool include high cost and significant weight, hygroscopicity, air flow (heat is removed). Pressed mineral wool has the same disadvantages as rolled mineral wool, only in an enlarged form.
	The advantages include the complete tightness of the insulation; there are no gaps between the foam and wooden structures. The disadvantages are the uneven thickness of the layer. Sealed polyurethane foam does not require vapor ingress protection. This method of insulation is recommended for use on roofs with soft roofs; continuous sheathing is made for them, and this is a prerequisite. Its surface is smooth and without cracks, which allows you to apply liquid foam.

We specifically do not provide comparative indicators of thermal conductivity of various materials; they are almost the same and in practice the differences are unnoticeable.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials