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Cesspool sanitary standards rules. Cesspool on the site, what are the distances to neighbors and fences. Cesspool needs advice. Tell me what should be the minimum distance between the pit and the neighbors fence

Not all materials used in construction are capable of providing the required level of heat conservation for a private home. There is constant heat leakage through the walls, roof, floor, and window openings. By using a thermal imager to determine which structural elements of a building are the “weak links,” through comprehensive or fragmented insulation, you can significantly reduce heat loss in a private home.

Insulate the windows

Insulation of house windows is most often carried out by Swedish technology what is it all for window sashes removed from the frames, then a groove is selected along the perimeter of the frame with a milling cutter, into which a tubular silicone seal (with a diameter of 2 to 7 mm) is inserted - this allows you to reliably seal the window ledges. Small cracks in frames and gaps between the glass unit and the frame are filled with sealant after preliminary washing, cleaning and drying the windows.

Window insulation can also be done using heat-saving film, which is fixed to the window using a self-adhesive strip. window frame. By letting light into the room, the film reliably screens heat flows due to metallized coating, returning about 60% of the heat back into the room. Significant heat loss through windows is often associated with a violation of the frame geometry, gaps between the frame and the slopes, sagging and skewed sashes, poor-quality functioning of the fittings - to eliminate these problems, qualified adjustment or repair of windows is required.

Insulate the walls

The most significant heat loss - about 40% - occurs through the walls of buildings, so thoughtful insulation main walls of a private house will radically improve its heat-saving parameters. Insulation of walls can be done from the inside or/and outside - the method of insulation depends on the material used in the construction of the house. Brick and foam concrete houses Most often they are insulated from the outside, but the heat insulation can also be laid from the inside of these buildings. Wooden houses almost never insulate from the outside interior spaces, to avoid the greenhouse effect in the rooms. The outside of houses is insulated from timber, sometimes from logs.

Insulation of the walls of a house can be done using “wet” or curtain façade- the main difference between these methods is the installation principle facade cladding. When arranging a “wet” facade, a dense thermal insulator (expanded polystyrene, foam plastic) is attached to the wall, and then decorative finishing using adhesive mixtures. When installing a suspended facade, after installing the insulation (mineral or glass wool), the sheathing is installed, and then the cladding modules are fixed in its profiles. Required element The “pie” of the walls is a vapor barrier film, which removes condensation from the insulating layer, protects it from getting wet and prevents the loss of insulating properties.

Insulate the roof

The roof of a house is another surface through which heat constantly escapes from the house. Depending on the material used in the arrangement roofing, the roof may be more or less warm. Major insulation is usually required metal roofs from corrugated sheets and metal tiles. Roofs made of ondulin, flexible and ceramic tiles have low thermal conductivity, so the insulating “pie” for them can be thinner than in the case of metal. Similar to the technology for insulating other surfaces of the house, a vapor barrier must be included in the roof “pie”, and for effective ventilation of the under-roof space, one or two ventilation gaps are provided.

Insulate the floor

Unlike walls and window openings, heat leakage through the floor of a private house is small - approximately 10%, and if insulation is installed, it will be reduced to a minimum. The same foam, polystyrene or mineral wool, but it is also possible to use expanded clay, foamed concrete, cement-bonded particle mixtures and peat mats. An additional insulation measure in a country house can be the installation of heated floors: water, cable or infrared.

Similar to the insulation of walls and roofs, an obligatory component of the floor “pie” is vapor barrier membrane, which screens moisture-saturated steam leaking from internal space home outside. Thus, the heat-insulating layer is reliably protected from getting wet.

Energy efficient building renovation can help you save money thermal energy and improve the comfort of life. The greatest savings potential lies in good thermal insulation of the external walls and roof. The easiest way to evaluate the possibilities of effective repair is the consumption of thermal energy. If more than 100 kWh of electricity (10 m³) is consumed per year natural gas) on square meter heated area, including wall area, then energy-saving renovations can be beneficial.

Heat loss through the outer shell

The basic concept of an energy-saving building is a continuous layer of thermal insulation over the heated surface of the house contour.

1. Roof. With a thick layer of insulation, heat loss through the roof can be reduced;

Important! IN wooden structures Thermal sealing of the roof is difficult, since the wood swells and can be damaged by high humidity.

1. Walls. As with a roof, heat loss is reduced when a special coating is used. In the case of internal wall insulation, there is a risk that condensation will collect behind the insulation if the room humidity is too high;

1. Floor or basement. For practical reasons thermal insulation produced from inside the building;
2. Thermal bridges. Thermal bridges are unwanted cooling fins (thermal conductors) on the outside of a building. For example, a concrete floor, which is also a balcony floor. Many thermal bridges are found in the soil area, parapets, windows and door frames. There are also temporary thermal bridges if the wall parts are fixed metal elements. Thermal bridges can account for a significant portion of heat loss;
3. Window. Over the past 15 years, the thermal insulation of window glass has improved 3 times. Today's windows have a special reflective layer on the glass, which reduces radiation loss; these are single- and double-glazed windows;
4. Ventilation. A typical building has air leaks, especially around windows, doors and the roof, which provide the necessary air exchange. However, during the cold season, this causes significant heat loss in the house from the heated air escaping. Good modern buildings are quite airtight, and it is necessary to regularly ventilate the premises by opening the windows for a few minutes. To reduce heat loss due to ventilation, comfortable ventilation systems. This type of heat loss is estimated at 10-40%.

Thermographic surveys in a poorly insulated building provide insight into how much heat is lost. This is very good tool for quality control of repairs or new construction.

Methods for assessing heat loss at home

Exist complex techniques calculations that take into account various physical processes: convection exchange, radiation, but they are often unnecessary. Simplified formulas are usually used, and if necessary, you can add 1-5% to the result. The orientation of the building is taken into account in new buildings, but solar radiation also does not significantly affect the calculation of heat loss.

Important! When applying formulas for calculating thermal energy losses, the time spent by people in a particular room is always taken into account. The smaller it is, the smaller temperature indicators must be taken as a basis.

1. Average values. The most approximate method does not have sufficient accuracy. There are tables compiled for individual regions, taking into account climatic conditions and average building parameters. For example, for a specific area, the power value in kilowatts required to heat 10 m² of room area with 3 m high ceilings and one window is indicated. If the ceilings are lower or higher, and there are 2 windows in the room, the power indicators are adjusted. This method does not take into account the degree of thermal insulation of the house at all and will not save thermal energy;
2. Calculation of heat loss from the building envelope. The area is summed up external walls minus the sizes of window and door areas. Additionally there is a roof area with a floor. Further calculations are carried out using the formula:

Q = S x ΔT/R, where:

• S – found area;
• ΔT – difference between internal and external temperatures;
• R – resistance to heat transfer.

The results obtained for the walls, floor and roof are combined. Ventilation losses are then added.

Important! This calculation of heat loss will help determine the boiler power for the building, but will not allow you to calculate the number of radiators per room.

1. Calculation of heat loss by room. When using a similar formula, losses are calculated for all rooms of the building separately. Then the heat loss for ventilation is determined by determining the volume air mass and the approximate number of times per day she changes indoors.

Important! When calculating ventilation losses, it is necessary to take into account the purpose of the room. Increased ventilation is required for the kitchen and bathroom.

An example of calculating heat loss in a residential building

The second calculation method is used, only for external structures Houses. Up to 90 percent of thermal energy is lost through them. Accurate results are important to select the right boiler for your boiler effective heat without excessive heating of the premises. It is also an indicator of the economic efficiency of the selected materials for thermal protection, showing how quickly you can recoup the costs of their purchase. The calculations are simplified, for a building without a multilayer thermal insulation layer.

The house has an area of ​​10 x 12 m and a height of 6 m. The walls are 2.5 bricks thick (67 cm), covered with plaster, a layer of 3 cm. The house has 10 windows 0.9 x 1 m and a door 1 x 2 m.

Calculation of heat transfer resistance of walls:

1. R = n/λ, where:

• n – wall thickness,
• λ – thermal conductivity (W/(m °C).

This value is looked up in the table for your material.

1. For brick:

Rkir = 0.67/0.38 = 1.76 sq.m °C/W.

1. For plaster coating:

Rpc = 0.03/0.35 = 0.086 sq.m °C/W;

1. Total value:

Rst = Rkir + Rst = 1.76 + 0.086 = 1.846 sq.m °C/W;

Calculation of the area of ​​external walls:

1. Total area of ​​external walls:

S = (10 + 12) x 2 x 6 = 264 sq.m.

1. Area of ​​windows and doorway:

S1 = ((0.9 x 1) x 10) + (1 x 2) = 11 sq.m.

1. Adjusted wall area:

S2 = S – S1 = 264 – 11 = 253 sq.m.

Heat losses for walls will be determined:

Q = S x ΔT/R = 253 x 40/1.846 = 6810.22 W.

Important! The ΔT value is taken arbitrarily. For each region, you can find the average value of this value in the tables.

At the next stage, heat loss through the foundation, windows, roof, and door is calculated in the same way. When calculating the heat loss index for the foundation, a smaller temperature difference is taken. Then you need to sum up all the numbers received and get the final one.

To determine possible consumption electricity for heating, you can present this figure in kWh and calculate it in heating season.

If you use only the number for the walls, you get:

• per day:

6810.22 x 24 = 163.4 kWh;

• per month:

163.4 x 30 = 4903.4 kWh;

• for a heating season of 7 months:

4903.4 x 7 =34,323.5 kWh.

When heating is gas, gas consumption is determined based on its calorific value and the efficiency of the boiler.

Heat losses due to ventilation

1. Find the air volume of the house:

10 x 12 x 6 = 720 m³;

1. The mass of air is found by the formula:

M = ρ x V, where ρ is the air density (taken from the table).

M = 1, 205 x 720 = 867.4 kg.

1. It is necessary to determine the number of times the air in the entire house is changed per day (for example, 6 times), and calculate heat loss for ventilation:

Qв = nxΔT xmx С, where С – specific heat for air, n is the number of times the air is replaced.

Qв = 6 x 40 x 867.4 x 1.005 = 209217 kJ;

1. Now we need to convert to kWh. Since there are 3600 kilojoules in one kilowatt-hour, then 209217 kJ = 58.11 kWh

Some calculation methods suggest taking heat losses for ventilation from 10 to 40 percent of total heat losses, without calculating them using formulas.

To make it easier to calculate heat loss at home, there are online calculators where you can calculate the result for each room or the entire house. Simply enter your data in the fields provided.

Video

The issue of wastewater disposal in private houses and country houses is often solved by constructing a cesspool. For some developers, this topic is a “dark forest”, although there are standards that clearly regulate the process of constructing cesspools and septic tanks, violating which is highly discouraged. As you probably already understood, the topic of our article is: a cesspool - sanitary standards and rules for its arrangement.

Let's start with normative act, and this is The federal law N 52-FZ “On the sanitary and epidemiological welfare of the population” of 1999, which regulates sanitary standards that are mandatory for all citizens of the Russian Federation.

If we carefully read the text of the regulatory document, we will find out - the pit must be built with special filtration and it must not have a bottom in no case. Moreover, if daily norm wastewater is more than 1 cubic meter.

But there is a slight difference in that when building a cesspool for a house that will be heated and at least four people will live in it, the pit must be equipped with a special bottom.

Also, very often the question arises about what distance is needed from a residential building to a cesspool? Unfortunately, no one can give you a definite answer to such a question, since everyone will have their own dimensions.

The requirements for a cesspool are clear, but the minimum distance that should be is 15 meters from the house. And all this is needed in order to poisonous gases, which emit waste, did not harm others in any way, including the residents of the house itself. If you need the distance from the cesspool to the water pipes to be much closer, then you will need to negotiate with the Sanitary and Epidemiological Inspectorate, the water utility department, etc.

Rules for arranging a pit

But let’s still look at some mandatory standards that must be observed when building a cesspool with a working volume of up to 1 cubic meter of waste per day and signing an agreement with all authorities. Such pits - classic example For country houses and dachas without water heating devices and household appliances. The residence of people is not permanent.

According to sanitary standards, the installation of a septic tank is allowed at a distance of no closer than 5 meters from summer kitchen or at home. If the volume of wastewater is up to 8 cubic meters per day, the distance should be at least 8 meters.

The requirements look like this:

• If the drainage is 3 cubic meters in one day, the pipes must be installed closer to groundwater, at a distance of 40-50 meters.
• It is also very important to know that the pipes must be installed upstream groundwater
• If there is a location near your home artesian well, the distance must be at least 20 meters.

But still, some homeowners have a situation where it is practically impossible to make a cesspool at a great distance, what to do in such a situation?

In this case, experts advise installing wells or drainages for several houses at once. In this case, take into account the distance from the “red line” of 2.5-5 meters.

Requirements and standards SanPiN 42-128-4690-88

There are specially created Sanpin requirements for a cesspool.

So, if your house does not have a special sewage system, then you will be allowed to build a cesspool in your yard. But remember that it must be waterproof. There must also be a lid above the pit that will cover it, as well as a special grill. If required, you can share the pit with your neighbors.

If your home is near a school, kindergarten etc., then the distance should be at least 20 meters, but not more than 10 meters. If there are any questions about the cesspool, then here you will need to resolve this only with the help of special administrative advice. However, the general rule remains the same for everyone - the pit must be located at a distance of at least 50 meters from wells and springs.

The cesspool must be cleaned at least once every six months

To disinfect the cesspools of courtyard latrines, the following mixture is used:

• 10% bleach,
• 5% sodium hypochloride,
• 10% - naphthalizol,
• 5% - creolina,
• 10% - sodium metasilicate.

Additional requirements for arrangement

A prerequisite for constructing a cesspool is its tightness. Construction Materials must be dense, for example, such as boards, bricks or blocks. Also, the pit should not allow water or drains to pass through, so as not to pollute the environment.

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Usually in private households the problem of drainage and sewage is solved by building personal plots cesspools. There are certain standards that clearly define how the process of installing septic tanks and other treatment structures serving individual residential buildings should be carried out. It is not recommended to violate them.

When a cesspool is created, sanitary standards are regulated by Law of the Russian Federation N52-FZ of 1999 “On the sanitary and epidemiological welfare of the population.” The requirements specified in it are mandatory for citizens of the country.

Sanitary standards for cesspools

According to the text of the regulatory document, cesspools (see photo) must be built with a mandatory special filtration device, and they should not have a regular bottom under any circumstances, especially if during the day the amount of waste exceeds one cubic meter.

At the same time, it should be noted that when constructing a cesspool to serve a heated house in which at least 4 people will live, the sump should be made with a special bottom.

There is no definite answer as to what the distance from the house to the cesspool should be. The requirements for this parameter are ambiguous. The minimum distance between these two objects is 15 meters (read also: " ").

Such a distance from the house to the drainage pit is required so that the toxic gases emitted by the waste do not harm the local environment and people living in the area.

If there is a need to make the distance from the pit to the water supply closer, then you should contact the appropriate authorities (Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision) and utility service companies (for example, water supply department, etc.).

Rules for arranging cesspools

If a cesspool is being built, sanitary standards must be observed. Settlements with a working volume of no more than one cubic meter of wastewater and sewage per day belong to the classic option for arranging cesspools for servicing country houses and country houses, in which people live intermittently and do not use water heating equipment and Appliances.

According to sanitary requirements, the distance from the septic tank to the summer kitchen cannot be less than 5 meters. In the case when the daily volume of wastewater reaches 8 cubic meters, the distance should be increased to 8 meters.

The rules for arranging cesspools require compliance with a number of requirements:

• when the drainage per day is 3 cubic meters, the pipes must be located as close as possible to groundwater (distance 40-50 meters);
• pipes should be installed upward relative to the flow of groundwater;
• if there is an artesian source in the immediate vicinity of the house, the distance from the well to the cesspool should be at least 20 meters.

In the case when homeowners are unable to maintain the distance of the drainage pit from the house and sources drinking water Experts recommend making wells or captages for several houses at the same time. In this case, it is necessary to maintain a 2.5-5 meter offset from the “red line”. Before you start work, you definitely need to know how to make a drain hole correctly and according to the standards.

SanPiN 42-128-4690-88: requirements and standards, installation distance

On the territory of the Russian Federation, regardless of the region of residence, SanPiN requirements for cesspools apply.

When in a private house there is no centralized sewer system, its owners are allowed to locate a cesspool on the site. The main requirement for it is mandatory water resistance. There should be a lid over the sump to close it and a special grill. You can arrange a common drain hole with neighbors.

When a private house is located near a school or preschool institution, then the distance must be at least 20 meters. If questions arise regarding the arrangement of a cesspool, the owner of a country property should contact the local administrative authorities.

But there is general rule for all private households - the septic tank should be located so that the distance from the well to the cesspool is 50 meters.

Treatment buildings must be cleaned at least once every six months.

When disinfecting drainage pits, use a product whose components are:

• 5% sodium hypochlorite;
• 5% - creolina;
• 10% bleach;
• 10% - naphthalizol;
• 10% - sodium metasilicate.

Under no circumstances should dry bleach be used for disinfection.

Additional requirements for arrangement

1. In addition to the requirement, what should be the distance between the well and the cesspool, there is another important point- this is tightness treatment plant so that sewage does not poison the soil and aquifers, since in this case the environment will be harmed.
2. The building materials used to construct settling tanks (bricks, boards, blocks) must differ in density
3. The drains should not be allowed to be higher than 35 centimeters from the ground surface, since then negative consequences The property owner himself is unlikely to be able to cope.

To the distance from cesspools to engineering communications there are also requirements:

• from the water supply system made of asbestos-cement pipes to septic tanks and drainage pits, the distance should not be less than 5 meters;
• when using cast iron pipes with a diameter of no more than 200 millimeters - 1.5 meters;
• if there are cast iron pipes with a diameter of more than 200 millimeters - 3 meters;
• before gas pipes– more than 5 meters.

To bad smell did not disturb the residents, you need to maintain a 5-meter distance from the building to the cesspool. The septic tank should not be located closer than 1.5 meters to the border of the site.

Providing the benefits of civilization is very important for country houses and dachas. This issue is especially relevant for structures located far from centralized utility networks. In most cases, to solve such problems on site country house or a dacha, a well is built, a well is drilled and a cesspool or septic tank is installed. These engineering structures will solve the problem of providing water to a residential building, as well as disposing of wastewater. However, when placing a hydraulic structure and a cesspool on a site, it is very important to observe the standard distances. Compliance with sanitary standards will help maintain the quality of drinking water from the source at the appropriate level.

Sometimes even the construction of a water intake structure in compliance with technology and rules will not protect you from contamination of the source. The thing is that potential pollutants may appear during the operation of the well. One such pollutant may be a cesspool. Moreover, such a structure can be built not by you, but by your neighbors who do not adhere to the standards for sanitary protection gaps.

In this case, the minimum distance from the well should be observed to the following sources:

• drainage sewer;
• treatment facility for wastewater, the volume of which does not exceed 25 m³ per day - septic tank;
• cesspool.

The distance between the well and the sewage pit, since this structure may cause dangerous pollution environment and sources of drinking water due to significant accumulation of sewage.

Although modern materials guarantee a high degree of tightness and durability of the cesspool; you cannot be completely sure of safety, because the risk of leakage cannot be excluded. That is why a standard distance must be maintained between such a pit and a well or borehole. This is the only way to be completely sure that your drinking water is safe.

Typically, all sanitary protection zones are specified in regulatory documents SNiPakh and SanPiNakh. Moreover, the gap between the source of drinking water and the cesspool depends on the productivity of the latter structure. Usually this distance is at least 50 m. In this case, the gap between them can be increased depending on the volume of filtration of the cesspool:

• if the water consumption per day is 1-2 m³, then the zone is 8-10 m;
• at a flow rate of 4-8 m³, the zone increases to 15-20 m;
• if the flow rate is 15 m³ or more, then the gap increases to 25 m or more.

Attention: in the sanitary protection zone there should be no open sources of drinking water (wells, reservoirs) and closed sources - wells.

Requirements for well placement

The distance from the well to the waste pit depends on various factors. When determining this gap, it is worth taking into account such indicators as:

• hydraulic connection between the rock and the aquifer, because it is the soil that performs the filtration functions for water entering the water layer;
• the composition and quality of the soil, since through it sewage can seep into the source (water leaks through sandy rock most easily);
• penetration depth groundwater(a cesspool structure without a bottom cannot be buried below the aquifer);
• the direction of fluid flow in the underground water horizon (for wells located downstream from the waste pit, there is a high risk of contamination).

Depending on the characteristics of the rock, the gap between these structures may be as follows:

• impermeable rock (waterproof clay is considered the most impermeable, in this case the gap from the pit to the source can be reduced to 30 m);
• permeable rock (sand) - in this case it is better to make a maximum gap of 50 m.

Choosing a place for a pit

As a rule, a cesspool is constructed on the territory land plot private house. When placing this object, it is important to maintain not only the distance to the well, but also to other buildings on the site:

• It is necessary to retreat at least 100 cm from water supply networks;
• a gap of 20 m should be maintained to the mine wells;
• from the well to the pit it is worth making a gap of at least 30-50 m;
• between houses and other buildings and the pit, it is worth making a gap of at least 10-12 m (in this case, it is important to take into account the structures in neighboring areas), otherwise the water can wash away the foundation, violate the integrity of the building and cause its flooding;
• You should retreat at least 1 m from fences;
• free access for special vehicles must be provided to the pit.

Attention: it is forbidden to make sewage pits more than 3 m deep. The thing is that deeper structures will be very difficult even for a sewer truck to clean. Pump equipment will not be able to lift all the sewage from the bottom of the structure.

When choosing a location for a cesspool, it is important to consider the relative placement of water and gas pipes. In this case, you should adhere to the following requirements:

1. The drainage pit must be located at a distance of at least 500 cm from pipelines made of asbestos cement or reinforced concrete.
2. When laying a pipeline from cast iron pipes with a diameter of no more than 20 cm, the distance should be 1.5 m or more.
3. If they will be used cast iron pipes significant diameter (more than 20 cm), then the gap increases to 3 m.
4. The waste pit should be located no closer than 5 m from the gas pipeline.

Wells and small cesspools

When constructing a small cesspool with a capacity of 1-8 m³ per day, the requirements for standardized sanitary-protective gaps are somewhat relaxed. So, you can retreat at least 5-8 m from the house of such a structure.

A small waste pit can be located at the following distance from the water intake and its structures:

1. If the waste structure has a filtration volume of no more than 3 m³ per day, then the installation of a pipeline through which drinking and domestic water is supplied from the water intake to the house can be done downstream of the liquid in the underground water horizon. In this case, the distance between structures should be at least 40-50 m.
2. If, with the same volumes of the cesspool, the source is located upstream of the water in the aquifer, then a gap of 25 m can be maintained between them.
3. When placing a septic tank perpendicular to the movement of liquid in the water horizon, maintain a distance of 25-30 m between the source and the cesspool.
4. Sewage pits and other sources of potential pollution should be placed at a distance not exceeding 20 m from artesian springs and wells.

It is important to know: the optimal placement of a sealed septic tank is downstream of the water in the aquifer, and the water intake structure is upstream.

As you can see, when constructing cesspools and drinking water sources, many different requirements must be met. It is often simply impossible to comply with all of them on one site, especially taking into account the buildings on neighboring sites. In this case professional craftsmen use one universal solution:

• first, water intake structures (wells, boreholes, columns, etc.) are organized in several neighboring areas;
• then a concrete or asphalt platform is made (in this case, the surface slope should be 5% of the walls of the structure);
• the dimensions of this area must be at least 3x2.5 m;
• the distance from the red lines of the street should be at least 250-500 cm.