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How to dry the cellar: get rid of dampness, condensation, mold. Getting rid of groundwater in the basement Protecting the cellar from flood and melt water

This question, of course, is asked by the owners of private houses in the spring, during the snowmelt period. Radical owners stop using the cellar. The more “advanced” do not want to come to terms with the “inevitable” laws of nature. And they are doing the right thing: eliminating water in the basement is possible. Moreover, modern technologies allows you to get rid of the problem water in the basement forever.

Don't skimp. It’s easier (and, in the end, cheaper) to build a good basement the first time than to endlessly redo it later. Therefore, you should immediately thoroughly seal the foundation walls and drain water from it. If water still penetrates into the basement, get rid of it quickly to keep the cellar dry.

Of course, it is easier to prevent a problem than to solve it. A prudent owner, already during the construction of a house, will certainly take care of the reasonable organization of the drainage system and the impeccable waterproofing of the basement. The drainage system will help excess moisture go deep into the soil and not come into contact with the cellar, and water in the basement will never become a pressing problem.
But don't be discouraged if it hasn't been done. For each case, specialists will offer the best solution to the problem. There are no hopeless situations. For example, drainage channels can be installed along the perimeter of the basement of an already built house. And, if possible, arrange them inside the cellar. To do this, a false floor is usually used.

What is the problem? water in the basement, can be seen in this video

Water in the basement video

Water in the basement. Sealing foundation walls

By saturating the soil around the foundation, water creates hydrostatic pressure, directing it through all defects and joints of the foundation. Coating waterproofing will become the first line of defense.
Among the compositions intended for this, the most common are materials containing bitumen, applied to the foundation from the outside. The bit reduces the porosity of concrete, but later loses its elasticity and becomes more brittle, which leads to the appearance of cracks. Various plasticizers improve the situation, but their protection will be short-lived. Many developers prefer these coatings for their low cost, but consumers should be careful: the validity of such compositions is about 5-6 years.

It's worth saying that modern market also offers customers hot mastics with bases of petroleum bitumen and low molecular weight polypropylene and polyethylene. The materials are heated before use. Their performance characteristics (elasticity, adhesive properties, heat resistance) are higher.
Rigid polystyrene foam is effective for maintaining the integrity of the coating when backfilling the foundation. This material is stable, durable and resistant to microorganisms in the soil. The polystyrene foam board promotes a thermal break between the foundation and the backfilled soil. Although manufacturers claim that modern, highly flexible coatings do not need protection, there is no need to give up additional insulation of the foundation walls.
Before applying the coating to concrete, it is worth cleaning the surface. It is also necessary to correctly determine the height of the ground level upon completion of excavation work, and this indicator must be taken into account when applying the coating. An incorrectly determined height will result in an unsealed portion of the wall underneath the backfill. Inevitable shrinkage cracks in the foundation will eventually lead to leakage.

A replacement for the waterproof coating will be geocomposite (consisting of a drainage core, filter and membranes) drainage mats attached to the foundation walls.
The problem of using such polymer materials next: without effective drainage of the foundation base, hydrostatic water pressure will push moisture upward between the wall and the mats. With this option, water will seep through any crack in the foundation wall.
Summing up the intermediate results on materials for waterproofing walls, it is worth noting: the most best coverage will not allow water to penetrate the walls, but will not protect against the accumulation of moisture around the base of the foundation. That is, drainage is necessary.

Sand and gravel - clean drain pipes

To keep the basement dry, it is necessary to drain water away from the house. The main element of the drainage system can be a regular PVC pipe 0100 mm. This is because a special pipe with perforated slots is difficult to lay straight, and any mistake in installation will cause clogging of the system and poor flow. In addition, the slots become clogged quickly. In an ordinary pipe, it will not be difficult to drill two rows of holes 012 mm. Several layers of filter cloth wrapped around the pipe will prevent the pipe from silting up.
Water drainage work begins with digging a trench to the base of the foundation. Then the filter fabric is unwound and laid with its edges on the ground along the side trench walls.
Gravel is poured over the fabric, it is leveled, and then a PVC pipe is laid with a slight slope towards the outlet pipe. At this stage, it is worth connecting the water inlets located on the surface with vertical risers to the drainage pipes of the foundation base. Later, the inlet grates are filled with gravel to prevent them from becoming clogged with leaves.
Gravel is poured over the pipe, its level should not reach the upper edge of the base about 20 cm. The stones are covered with a filter cloth to hold it, several stones or shovels of sand are used. To clog the filter fabric more slowly, about 15 cm of coarse sand is poured on top of it. As a result, sustainable and effective work drainage system (sand protects the fabric, and fabric protects the stone). With this approach water in the basement , is unlikely to be your problem. External drains of the foundation base must be laid with a slope of 2-3 cm/1 m of pipe length (or more). If the total length of the drainage system exceeds 60 m, then most likely you need to think about additional measures - for example, increasing the diameter of the outlet pipe.
There is no noticeable slope on the site, or there is no collector nearby storm sewer? You will have to bring the drains from the base of the foundation to the pump. In this case, the pipe connecting the external contour of the drainage system with a pump is laid to the water collector along the shortest route.

Water in the basement, drainage system video

It is worth noting that the internal contour of the drainage system should not be connected in any way to its external sector. This is because the risk of problems occurring in the external part is much higher than in the internal part. A failure in the external circuit of the integrated system will lead to flooding of the basement, because... water will go under the house.
Most water problems under your home are caused by overwatering. backfill. A coating applied to concrete blocks the access of water through various foundation defects. A perforated PVC pipe laid along the base of the foundation drains excess water away from the house. A filter made of gravel, sand and a special fabric protects the drainage system from silting. If you do not take care of draining rainwater flowing from the roof, then it will end up in the cellar. If your question water in the basement what to do and how to get rid of it is still relevant, then next we will look at several more methods of dealing with such a problem as water in the basement.

Water drainage - the farther the better

Also a problem water in the basement , can be solved by proper drainage. Draining water from your gutters away from your home seems axiomatic. But not many homes have effective rainwater drainage. Another way to divert rainwater– connection drainpipes with a diversion having a steep (as far as possible) slope from the building.
Due to the accumulation of debris in the gutters, the diameter drain pipes must contribute to the reliable removal of moisture even during heavy rain - at least 100 mm. In this case, the best outlet pipe for installation is 0150 mm.
Right angle bends in the drainage channel are undesirable, as they will certainly become clogged with leaves and debris. If the gutter length is more than 5 m, then it is better to think about two outlet channels. And one more thing: the drainage pipe of rain gutters cannot be connected to the drainage system of the foundation base. "Most Likely" Blockage drainage system will turn into a blockage of the entire drainage system.

Water in the basement. What to do and how to get rid of it?

Internal drainage circuit (collects water from the foundation walls), insulation under concrete slab(prevents steam and water from rising), a reliable sump pump - these are the three components of an effective basement drainage system.
A layer of gravel 20-25 cm thick is laid under the concrete slab. Such backfill is a reliable cushion for concrete and provides drainage under the slab. After laying the gravel, a vapor barrier made of high-density polyethylene is installed. The canvases overlap by at least 40-50 cm, and the joints are sealed using adhesive tape.
Such insulation is not held in high esteem by “concrete workers”, since it prevents moisture from the solution from escaping into the ground, and this lengthens the technological cycle. But this problem is solved by laying a sand layer 70-80 mm thick on top of the insulation. Another option is insulation under gravel. In any case, the short-term benefits of intact insulation under the structure are worth the temporary installation inconvenience.
The junction of the basement floor and the foundation wall - the best place to capture and drain water entering the cellar. Enough in an effective way water capture is plastic profile along the perimeter, placed under a concrete slab - such an apron collects water seeping through the walls. Holes in the profile allow moisture to seep into the gravel under the slab, from where the water is pumped out.
A well-functioning pump is the heart of a drainage system, and water in the basement you are not afraid. Practical experience determines several criteria for choosing this device. First of all, the obligatory cast iron body. Then the ability to pump out contaminated water with solid inclusions measuring 10-12 mm. And one more thing – the pump has a mechanical float switch, which is very reliable.
The pump is placed inside a plastic catch basin that collects and filters water. Such a perforated container is placed in a layer of filler. Water from the internal circuit of the drainage system enters the reservoir through its side wall. The container must have a sealed, air-tight lid - it will prevent moisture from evaporating into the basement, and will also protect the water collector from entering various items, which can disrupt the operation of the switch.
But it’s risky to rely solely on the pump to keep your basement dry. If the house loses power due to a hurricane, the basement will quickly fill with water. To be on the safe side, the system is equipped with a battery-powered backup pump, mounted in the same reservoir as the main pump. The same discharge pipeline can be used for it.
High-efficiency systems use pumps that are equipped with batteries and chargers for long-term backup use. The charger is very important, since untimely recharging will lead to a flood in the basement.
The pumped water is supplied either to the storm drain through a pipeline (if there is one), or outside, where it is removed as far as possible from the building. The discharge pipeline must be installed so that it does not freeze in winter. This is our article Water in the basement. What to do and how to get rid of it, has come to an end, we hope that after it, the water in the basement will cease to be your headache, and the arrival of spring will be accompanied only by joyful surprises.

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• Stone cellar.

• The relief of the site is determined.

1. hammers;
2. Screwdriver Set;
3. nails;
4. screws different sizes;
5. measuring tape.

• Master OK.
• Construction level.
• Square.
• Pick.

From the special:

• Metal trough.
• Concrete mixer.
• Welding machine.

Construction Materials:

• Cement.
• Crushed stone.
• Sand.
• Clay.
• Boards.

How to dig a pit

Tip: If the cellar is in a barn: a convenient option for a small plot of land

• Build walls.

How to make a floor in a cellar

Features of wall construction

When the brickwork of the cellar walls is completed, you can begin installing the ceiling and forming the entrance to the room. The video shows how and from what brick to build a cellar. => Brick Cellar In the Garage Yourself: Detailed Guide => => publish => open => closed => => iz-kirpicha-pogreb-63 => => => 2019-03-31 02:23:30 = > 2019-03-30 22:23:30 => => 0 =>?p=1103 => 0 => post => => 4 => raw => index,follow)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 1103 => 2 => 2015-07-02 19:56:30 => 2015-07-02 15:56:30 => Brick walls A do-it-yourself brick cellar is the dream of many owners of their houses and plots, despite the fact that the most... materials, but brick has long been considered the most popular of them. This is due to its high strength, moisture resistance, frost resistance, and excellent adhesion to cement-based mortar. By following all the rules and regulations for the construction of a red brick cellar, you can get a strong structure that for a long time will not be destroyed. How to make brickwork for the walls in the cellar is suggested in this article.

Features of brick construction

In modern cellars it is possible to create an optimal microclimate where fresh vegetables and home-canned products are well preserved. For their construction they are used various materials and so we could have:

• Stone cellar.

But the most popular, environmentally friendly and sufficiently durable is ordinary red brick. You don’t have to be a professional to build a cellar out of it. It is enough to know the basics and basic skills of working with construction tools. A properly constructed cellar should have good thermal and waterproofing. There should be a constant supply here fresh air, which will allow you to maintain the required temperature and humidity. When such conditions are created, products long time remain fresh, do not rot and retain all their taste well.

How to choose a site for construction

The first and most important stage construction is right choice places where the building will be erected. A do-it-yourself brick cellar can be placed under an existing structure or placed separately. When building a cellar, the instructions suggest paying attention to some important points:

• The size of the basement is selected depending on the needs of the family and the range of vegetables and fruits that are planned to be stored in it. The same factor is taken into account when calculating the amount of materials. Usually the basement is made up to two meters deep. The choice of flooring directly depends on the type of soil. Construction in summer is considered the most suitable period when groundwater is at its lowest point, which is very important when constructing a structure in an open area.
• Level taken into account groundwater, which affects the depth of the cellar. In this case, the lower boundary of the basement should be 50 cm above this level.
• The relief of the site is determined.

Advice: If the area where the cellar is planned to be located allows the device to be placed on a hillside, this is the best option to use, which will reduce the amount of excavation work.

• The type of soil is determined. Its different type involves the production of different slopes when digging a pit. The type of soil plays a role in drainage.
• Influence of soil freezing depth in winter.
• It is very important to have good waterproofing. Water should absolutely not enter the cellar, which will allow food to be well preserved.

It is recommended to build a brick cellar in the most elevated and dry place. If the cellar is not made under residential building or a garage, you should not build it close to other outbuildings, which will help prevent their possible collapse, which is caused by construction work.

What materials and tools are needed for construction

Brick is an ideal option for building a cellar. But there are several varieties of it, some of which fit well, while others are better replaced:

• Does not tolerate humidity well sand-lime brick, a cellar built from it will not last long.
• Cinder blocks and foam blocks will quickly deteriorate, so it is better not to use them when building a storage facility.
• Ideal material For the cellar there is burnt red brick. It is distinguished by ease of processing, durability and increased resistance to moisture.
• Can be used during construction foundation concrete blocks, but their heavy weight does not make it easy to carry out work without an assistant.

Before you line the cellar with bricks, you will need the following equipment and tools:

• Standard set of construction tools:

1. hammers;
2. Screwdriver Set;
3. nails;
4. screws of different sizes;
5. measuring tape.

• Screwdriver and other devices that will facilitate manual labor during construction.

For brickwork you will need:

• Master OK.
• Construction level.
• Square.
• Each worker has a shovel.
• Pick.

From the special:

• Metal trough.
• Concrete mixer.
• Welding machine.

Construction Materials:

• Red brick in the right quantity.
• Cement.
• Crushed stone.
• Sand.
• Clay.
• Boards.
• For the ventilation device, two plastic or asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 20 centimeters.
• Rolled metal and metal fittings.

How to dig a pit

After establishing the location of the building, excavation work can begin. The size of the future cellar and the proximity of neighboring buildings determines the possibility of using an excavator or digging a pit manually with a shovel.

Tip: If the cellar is located under a house or other outbuilding(see Cellar in a barn: a convenient option for a small plot of land), it is better to provide for it at the stage of constructing the foundation. Otherwise, its construction will require work with a jackhammer.

The construction of a cellar is similar to the technology of building a house. After digging a pit you should do:

• Build walls.
• Organize the ceiling and ventilation system.

When digging a pit, you should take into account the type of soil to calculate the steepness of the slopes.

How to make a floor in a cellar

After finishing digging the pit, you can begin installing the floor. Features of the process are:

• It should well protect the room from the inside from moisture, and have a smooth and comfortable surface.
• Before laying the floor, the bottom of the pit is first carefully leveled with a shovel.
• The joints of walls and floors should not have crumbled earth.
• To remove excess moisture, crushed stone or gravel chips are poured to the bottom of the pit, with a layer thickness of up to 20 centimeters.
• A mixture of fatty clay and water is prepared until a homogeneous thick consistency is obtained.
• The solution is carefully poured onto the crushed stone, while the clay should evenly cover the entire drainage pad.

Tip: If not large sizes In cellars, dry soil and deep groundwater, a clay floor will be sufficient. But to increase the service life of the building and maximum efficiency make a note harvested from dampness and damage, it is better to additionally fill the floor with concrete and, if necessary, reinforce it. The concrete floor will become durable and reliable basis for the construction of brick walls.

• To knead concrete mortar it is necessary to take cement and sand in a ratio of one to five, but this value depends on the brand of cement. It is easier to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer.
• On top of the concrete base, if desired, you can install floor coverings, but only if the cellar is large and is used not only as a vegetable storage, but is a multifunctional basement.
• Flooring should be done after finishing the walls and ceiling, which will prevent them from deterioration or damage.
• After pouring the floor, you need to wait 1-2 weeks until the concrete is completely dry.
• Formwork is prepared from boards for the foundation on which the walls will be erected.
• The width of the brickwork is usually from one to 1.5 bricks.
• The concrete used to fill the floor should be used to form a regular strip foundation protruding 20 centimeters above the floor level.
• In a deep cellar, when there is a significant load on the foundation, more aggregate can be added to the concrete solution.
• The foundation should dry and bricklaying can begin.

Tip: Brickwork of the walls in the cellar should be done after leveling the earthen walls of the pit. There should be no lumps or protruding roots here. This is especially true when excavating a pit using an excavator. The foundation must be cleaned.

Features of wall construction

In order to determine which brick to line the cellar with, you should pay attention to red brick, although its price is slightly higher than usual. Walls good basement must have sufficient strength and durability. In addition, red brick is environmentally friendly, a material with excellent thermal insulation properties. When used indoors, you can create optimal microclimatic conditions, which is very important to observe for keeping vegetables and homemade preparations fresh. Features of bricklaying are as follows:

• The brick is laid out in a checkerboard pattern using simple masonry.
• Its width is made one brick or one and a half.
• For strong adhesion of bricks, the solution is prepared in a ratio of 1 to 4 from a mixture of cement and sand. It is better to choose M400 grade cement for such work.
• At the same time, a semi-liquid solution consisting of fatty clay is prepared. It fills the space between the earthen wall and brickwork, which forms " clay castle", additionally protecting the walls from excess moisture.
• Clay is laid as the wall is built.
• You need to think about the location in advance ventilation pipes, they are laid immediately during laying.

The technology for constructing a brick wall is as follows:

• The brick row should start from a corner or from a doorway, provided that the entrance to the basement is on the side.

Beginning of construction of brick cellar walls

• Between the two outer bricks you need to stretch a rope, with which you can control the evenness of the row. Gradually the cord moves up.
• Using a trowel, a portion of the mortar is taken, which is applied to the foundation and brick is laid on top.
• Using the handle of a trowel, it is tapped from above, and then, if necessary, it is adjusted with the same blow close to the corner or the previous brick. It is necessary to ensure that the masonry is even and dense. A plumb line is used to check the correct position of the corners, and a level is used to check each element from all sides. The upper plane of the wall must be absolutely flat, without distortions.
• After completing the brick row, the gap between the earthen wall and the bricks should be well filled with clay. Clay should not fall on top of the bricks. When large gaps form between the elements, broken fragments are added to the clay.
• You need to start the second row like the previous one, but take half a brick, not a whole brick. The checkerboard order of masonry ensures a fairly high durability of the future wall. The photo shows an example of the construction of brick basement walls.

Construction of brick cellar walls

Advice: If the size of the future structure is sufficiently large, it is better to provide for the installation of several additional columns that will support the ceiling. Such supporting elements are laid out in three bricks in the center of the basement. The height of the columns must correspond to the walls; they serve to support the ceiling.

• After finishing the construction of walls and columns, a pause is made until the solution is completely dry. The masonry should settle well and adhere firmly.
• To the advantages brick walls applies to them long term operation without major repairs.

When the brickwork of the cellar walls is completed, you can begin installing the ceiling and forming the entrance to the room. The video shows how and from what brick to build a cellar.

=> Brick Cellar In the Garage Yourself: Detailed Guide => => publish => open => closed => => iz-kirpicha-pogreb-63 => => => 2019-03-31 02:23:30 = > 2019-03-30 22:23:30 => => 0 =>?p=1103 => 0 => post => => 4 => raw => index,follow) => 0 => -1 = > 386 => 386 => 0 => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => 1 => => = > => => => => => => => => => => => Array ( => query_vars_hash => query_vars_changed) => Array ( => init_query_flags => parse_tax_query)) Is there water in your basement? And you don't know what to do? If you are a tenant multi-storey building

, then there is nothing to worry about: utility services will solve the problem. It will be more difficult for the owner of a private house: worries will fall solely on his shoulders.

Reasons for the appearance of water in the basement of a house or cellar Flooding ground floor

1. construction or a free-standing cellar occurs as a result of:
2. lack of drainage;
3. improperly equipped drainage system;
4. clogging the drainage system with debris;
5. violations of the waterproofing layer of walls and floors;
6. changes in the hydrogeological situation, caused by movements of internal layers of the earth;

heavy seasonal rainfall. The problem cannot be ignored, since water has a detrimental effect on the structure of wooden and brick house

. What to do? First of all, pump it out using a hose and pump, and then dry the room.

But the solution to the problem does not end there. Measures should be taken to ensure that water does not accumulate in the future in the basement or cellar. This requires internal and external waterproofing of the foundation, floor and walls.

Before making internal flood protection, keep in mind that you will have to sacrifice free space by raising the floor level. Since it is recommended to lay pipes not underground, but on top of the old floor.

When starting work, arm yourself with construction tools and materials: shovels, buckets, crushed stone, sand, pipes, drainage well.

Laying drainage in the basement of a house or cellar consists of the following steps:

1. Consider a drainage scheme. If the room is no more than 20 square meters, then the pipes are laid along the walls. In the basement larger area you will need to make a whole network of pipes. The minimum distance between them is 3 meters. In this case, the pipes are installed at an angle in the direction where the drainage well will be located.
2. Fill the floor with fine crushed stone, expanded clay or coarse sand and level it drainage layer so that for every meter of length a slope of 20 mm is formed.
3. Take geotextiles and lay out sheets of material, observing the overlap size of 15 cm;
4. Proceed with laying the pipes according to the diagram drawn up in advance;
5. Check if their slope is maintained;
6. Wrap the drains with geofabric;
7. Install the rough floor.

If you do not want to make the height of the room smaller, then install drainage pipes under the floor. In this case, use only perforated plastic drains with a diameter of at least 8 cm.

As for the drainage well, it can be made from a pipe with a radius of 10 cm or built from concrete.

The drainage well is installed so that the bottom is at a depth of 50 cm from the drain level. It is recommended to install a plastic container at the bottom, which acts as a filter and collects dirt.

Waterproofing floors and walls in the basement of a house

To prevent water from penetrating into the premises, an additional level of protection is organized -. According to statistics, compounds with penetrating effects are in demand.

Penetrating into the structure of concrete, they come into contact with moisture and cause the formation of crystals that fill all the flaws.

If you coat the walls in the basement with this product, they will withstand the influence of water pressure weighing up to 13 kg per square centimeter.

As an alternative for internal waterproofing polymer-cement compositions are used. Their disadvantage is considered to be their susceptibility to sudden temperature changes.

External waterproofing of foundation walls

This type of waterproofing is best done from the beginning of construction. Then water would not be a problem for you and unnecessary time and money would not be required.

For external waterproofing digging out the foundation. Then it is pasted over or coated with special means. There are several types:

• Bitumen mastics. As for bitumen, during operation it becomes less elastic and weak. This leads to cracks.
• Plasticizers. Buyers fall for them because of their low cost. These products do not provide reliable protection and require replacement every 5 years.
• Hot mastics. They are based on petroleum bitumen, polypropylene and polyethylene.
• Expanded polystyrene board.
• Liquid rubber.

Liquid rubber - a new method of protecting premises from flooding

Construction technologies do not stand still, but are constantly being improved. Liquid rubber is considered an excellent way to protect your home from flooding in the basement. This new method external waterproofing which requires special attention.

Liquid rubber consists of an elastomeric water emulsion. Sprayed on the surface, it instantly forms a membrane on the walls, floor and thereby prevents water from entering the basement.

The material has a number of advantages:

• Compatible with all types of surfaces;
• Complete tightness due to the absence of seams;
• The membrane is resistant to water, earth gases and ultraviolet rays;
• Prevents the appearance of condensation in the room;
• Insensitive to temperature changes;
• The service life reaches 50 years.

Liquid rubber differs from other waterproofing products in its light weight.

Before applying a waterproofing layer to the foundation walls, clean and dry the surface.

If groundwater is at high level, then additional protection is created for the waterproofing layer in the form of a brick wall or profile membranes.

This precaution will completely eliminate the possibility of interaction between groundwater and the waterproofing agent.

Drainage technology outside the house

If you do not want water to constantly stand in the basement, then external drainage system- This is a great way to get rid of the problem. It eliminates excess groundwater and rainwater.

The components of drainage and storm sewer are located parallel one to one. Water from the storm drain is directed to a special well, but not to the drainage system. Otherwise, this will cause flooding of the foundation walls.

To perform drainage, pipes with two walls and a diameter of 11 cm are selected. To prevent the pipe from becoming clogged with debris during operation, the inner surface must be smooth.

In addition, the drains have holes through which water flows. This determines the operation of the drainage system.

1. Develop a scheme and strictly adhere to it during drainage;
2. Effective work protective system due to the presence of inspection wells;
3. Trenches should be dug taking into account the slope of the pipes by 1 cm for every meter of length.

Construction materials and equipment

Before you begin, you need to prepare the tools and materials without which drainage is impossible:

• Shovels;
• Trolley for transporting crushed stone, sand;
• Manual compaction;
• Fluid couplings;
• Drains;
• Plastic wells required for connecting pipes at bends;
• Level for controlling the slope of drains;
• Washed river sand;
• Crushed stone or gravel;
• Geotextile.

Drainage outside the house is considered a labor-intensive process and includes the following stages of work:

1. Installation of a drainage system is impossible without a preliminary site plan. Use a rangefinder for these purposes.
2. Dig drainage ditches and check how quickly water flows through them. In areas of stagnation of liquid, eliminate deficiencies. Trenches are dug 500 mm wide and 700 mm deep. The walls of the ditch should be made at an angle of 30 degrees and with a bevel towards the collector.
3. After you have dug the trenches, fill them with 10 centimeters of sand and compact it using a tool designed for this purpose.
4. Place geofabric in the trench so that the edges of the material reach the sides of the ditch.
5. A 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone is laid on the geotextile.
6. Then the pipes are laid so that the holes in them are turned downwards.
7. At the corners, the products are connected using couplings;
8. Inspection wells are installed at the corner joints of pipes. The maximum distance between wells is 20 meters;
9. After checking the strength of the connection, fill the drains with another layer of crushed stone.
10. The finished “hot dog” is wrapped in geotextiles and covered with earth. Due to the manipulations carried out, the drains will be protected from soil getting into them.

To connect the main pipe to the drainage system, another trench is required. It is dripped 50 centimeters deeper than the ring ditches were dug. This will create the desired slope.

The bottom of the trench is filled with crushed stone and after leveling it, taking into account the slope, a drainage pipe wrapped in geotextile material is laid. The radius of the pipe is 75 mm.

The final stage is filling the trench with sand and soil.

An external drainage system is a surefire defense against flooding in the basement of a house. Having completed it, you can be calm about the safety of the structure. Water won't find a way to get inside.

Alternatives to an external drainage system

1.Tray system. In terms of efficiency and reliability, it is in many ways superior to the above method of protection against flooding. The system involves placing pipes in concrete or plastic containers.

This method is suitable for people who are looking for a simple way out of a difficult situation.

2.Open drainage system. If you have a small land plot, then with the help of such protection it is possible to prevent a flood in the basement of the house.

To install an open drainage system, natural slopes are found and ditches are dug along them. Pieces of brick are laid at the bottom and the trenches are covered with a layer of turf.

The disadvantage of this system is rapid clogging.

Organizing the protection of the basement of a house is the main responsibility of the owner of the building. If you want your home to last for decades, do not neglect high-quality waterproofing and drainage system.

For many car owners, the underground room is an indispensable part of the garage. It significantly increases functionality garage. Inspection hole allows you to carry out complex repairs, and the basement can store the necessary things.

But underground premises need in special protection, as humidity can harm your car and cause corrosion. Therefore, to the question waterproofing the garage basement from the inside from groundwater should be approached with extreme caution.

While creating waterproofing Many materials are used. Waterproofing materials vary in price, service life and other characteristics. Popular building materials are penetrating waterproofing, bitumen and roll materials, polymer membranes.

This is what it looks like schematically garage basement waterproofing:

Let's consider two main cases - creating waterproofing during garage construction And renovation of an existing building.

During construction

The most important parts of the basement that need to be worked on are the inner and outer surfaces of the walls, the floor, and the closing lid. It's best to plan garage basement waterproofing at the very beginning of construction. This will make your work much easier.

First of all, you need to find out ground water level. If the environment is not too aggressive, and it is possible to build a garage with an underground room on the site, then you should start constructing drainage system. In the very simple case you can do without laying pipes. The mixture is poured along the perimeter of the future building. The mixture consists of soil, sand and stones.

A more complex drainage system is being built with pipes. First you will need to dig a trench around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the trench is equal to the depth of the basement + 40 centimeters. Buried vertically in a trench plastic pipes. They will let excess water pass through them.

To prevent clogging, pipes are covered lattice. Then the trench is covered with geotextiles and a layer of crushed stone. But even with a drainage system, protection must be enhanced by waterproofing in the basement itself.

For inner surface walls great solution is penetrating waterproofing.

Penetrating waterproofing – ready-made composition from special cement, sand and chemicals.

The composition is literally "penetrates" inside the walls and provides protection from moisture. The substance is suitable for capillary-porous structures. These include walls on a concrete and cement base, brick. Penetrating waterproofing gets inside micro-cavities and crystallizes there.

Crystals do not allow moisture to pass through, protect your cellar from harmful influences. Penetrating waterproofing can only deteriorate due to the destruction of the walls themselves. In other words, it will last a very long time. The substance should be applied lightly wet surface, so it will be better absorbed.

Penetrating waterproofing mixed with water and applied to the surface with a brush. The thickness of the layer is about two millimeters. Manufacturers claim that the substance penetrates almost a centimeter deep. The application process is simple and does not require special skills.

Instead of penetrating waterproofing, other methods can be used, for example, liquid rubber. The substance is placed on any surface - dry, damp or simply damp. Plaster with increased protection against moisture is well suited for brick.

Any car owner can handle the process; hiring specialists is not required. To begin applying plaster, you must first clean the wall and apply a primer. Next, the plaster is applied in three layers. The first is a primer, the second will be the main one, and the third is applied to level the surface.

One of the most common solutions for the external surface of basement walls is the use of bitumen mastic and roofing felt - homemade multi-layer coating. Building materials are distinguished by their low price and good characteristics. Instead of roofing felt, you can use slate; it is “reinforced” in the same way bitumen mixture.

Next step - floor protection. Ideal for underground floors reinforced concrete. Typically, car owners use roll and sheet materials. The method is simple and effective. The first step is to apply a primer. Protective material is placed on it. More complex and expensive options are cast, impregnated adhesive waterproofing.

The last step in creating moisture protection is installing the cover. It prevents moisture from penetrating into the above-ground part of the garage. Even if the basement is flooded, the cover will provide temporary corrosion protection. The lid can be made of wood; the thickness should be at least 10-15 centimeters.

How to waterproof a cellar in a garage, see below:

Repair

Unfortunately, the basement can flood. Then the question arises - how to get rid of water and make the cellar in the garage dry? Effective way is the installation internal drainage. If your garage has floors, they will have to be opened up. A trench is dug along the perimeter of the basement, with a depth of 30-50 centimeters. The bottom should be compacted and a layer of crushed stone (15-20 centimeters) should be poured onto it.

Plastic pipes called drains are placed in the trench. They need to be laid downhill so that water can get inside more easily. Then the drainage pipes are covered with geotextiles and crushed stone, and sand is poured on top.

Drainage helps drain water in the basement garage, but it will still have to be done. drain. The first phase is natural drying. First, you should clear the cellar of all things, and also remove shelves, garbage, and racks. After cleaning the garage it is necessary leave for two to three days. Then you can speed up the process.

For this purpose use brazier. You can make it yourself - the base will be a metal bucket. Please note that the bucket must be not painted.

Firewood is placed in a homemade brazier and set on fire. Heat accelerates air circulation in the basement, the walls quickly dry and warm up.

When the cellar in the garage becomes dry, you should take care repairing damage to waterproofing to prevent re-flooding.

If nothing helps, there is only one thing left - fall asleep. How to fill a cellar in a garage? Crushed stone, clay, fine-grained sand, and construction waste are well suited for this task. The basement needs to be filled layer by layer. The first layer is clay, and the second is sand. These materials are cheap and available.

Conclusion

Presented on the market today wide choose waterproofing materials . One of the most convenient and popular solutions is penetrating waterproofing. The substance is applied to the surface of the walls, it penetrates into the voids and crystallizes. Crystals they don't let you in moisture and provide long-lasting protection. Life time protective coating limited by the service life of the walls themselves.

In addition to walls, it needs waterproofing cellar floor. The assortment is also very large. The cheapest options are roll and sheet building materials. First, a primer is applied to the floor surface, then it is laid protective layer. A worthy replacement is cast or impregnated waterproofing; it is made on the basis of other substances. The last step is to install the closing cover.

All owners of private houses are familiar with the problem of a flooded basement. Moreover, this is faced not only by dacha owners, but also by city residents. The time for flooding of basements is spring. This happens during a period of intense snow melting. The groundwater level rises, the earth absorbs this water and retains it for a long time.

Many basement owners, when they see that there is water in the basement, abandon their storage facilities and do not even try to drain and restore it. They believe that it will be easier to purchase a new cellar. But some take a more thorough approach to this issue and prepare their storage for possible natural influences.

First of all, careful sealing of the walls and floor is necessary. In addition, care must be taken to construct a water outlet. If, in spite of everything, there is water in the basement of a private house, what to do, it is necessary to take all measures to ensure that it stays there as little as possible. Later in this article we will look at the main methods of dealing with basement flooding.

Reasons for the appearance of water

The normal functioning of all life support systems of the home is ensured by optimal conditions for the life of all family members. But violation of technology during construction leads to the emergence of various unpleasant situations during operation. As a rule, they happen in the spring. Such situations include the presence of groundwater in the basement, what to do?

Among the main reasons for the appearance of water in the garage basement are the following:

1. Cracks in the base of the foundation.
2. Heavy seasonal rainfall.
3. High groundwater level.

Errors in technological process or incorrect installation measures can lead to cracks. There are also cases when moisture enters the basement of a house through capillary action. All this leads to the spread of fungus and mold. This happens if the ventilation and waterproofing of the country house basement are ineffective.

At the stage of building a house, it is necessary to take into account the features of the topography and pressure leaks. One of the main parameters that determine the location of the future foundation is the presence and depth of groundwater and the location of moisture accumulation in the soil. At the same time, the project must include the possibility of increasing them and methods of protection. When there is heavy flooding, calcium is washed out of concrete, which reduces the reliability and strength of the structure as a whole.

Comprehensive protection of the basement from moisture

"Miser pays twice". This well-known truth is also true when equipping your home with a cellar. It will be much cheaper to build a basement right away, following all the technologies, than to later wonder how to get rid of water in the cellar.

It is always easier to prevent a problem than to solve it. Therefore, a prudent owner, first of all, will think about organizing the waterproofing of the cellar and the drainage system of the basement of his house. If there is a drainage system, moisture will bypass the subfloor and go deep into the soil.

But don’t be upset if you started thinking about the safety of your basements after the groundwater in the basement began to dominate. Experts will help you develop a water protection action plan, taking into account the configuration, size and location of your building. For example, drainage channels can be built around the perimeter of the building after construction is completed. They can also be installed inside the basement if the configuration allows it. In such cases, a false floor is used.

Drainage systems have been mentioned many times in this article, let's take a closer look at their properties and design. As already mentioned, the main task of internal drainage is drainage and drying land plots. Therefore, the design of a groundwater drainage system contains the following components: a well, trenches and pipes. The most correct option would be to install a drainage system at the installation stage in the basement. If you follow the technical process and construction rules, drainage will once and for all solve the drainage problem in your home.

The main element of the drainage design is a pipe of at least 10 centimeters in diameter. It should also have holes along the entire surface of the specialty through which groundwater causes flooding and accumulates in the collector. Effective drainage and collection of water should be ensured by a trench with a slope below the floor level. To protect against flooding, filter materials are used, for example, crushed stone or geotextiles. Typically, drainage is carried out to the central sewer, where a significant volume of groundwater will accumulate.

Installation of drainage systems includes the following steps:

1. A trench is dug around the foundation. Also construct deep well maybe ten to fifteen meters from the building. The slope of the trench should allow for the unimpeded passage of water.
2. Next, the geotextile can be laid directly on the ground, and all this is covered with a ten-centimeter layer of crushed stone. This completes the primary layer that filters groundwater.
3. The next stage will be laying on crushed stone drainage pipe. At the same time, keep the slope under control throughout the entire trench. The outlet pipe must enter the well through a tee.
4. After laying, the pipe is covered with crushed stone, leaving about 30 centimeters to the edges. Fold the free edges of the geotextile on top of the crushed stone bedding. Thanks to these actions, you can completely isolate the soil and drainage. Finally, the trench is filled with sand.

The result of the work done will be reliable drainage. In this case, crushed stone and geotextiles will act as a filter for the perforated pipe. Sand and gravel will transport moisture from the soil to the drainage.

Thus, drainage channels installed around the basement will be able to eliminate the main cause of flooding - excessive groundwater levels. However, such systems also have disadvantages - not every basement design will allow the installation of a drainage system.

However, under certain conditions, it is possible to build drainage indoors. The arrangement process is not much different from the traditional one, with the exception of the floor screed stage. You also need to take into account that the drainage system eats up 0.3 meters of the height of the cellar.

Automatic water pumping system

Not every basement configuration allows for the creation of a slope for water drainage. In this case, an automatic water pumping system is used.

Let's take a closer look at the stages of creating an automatic water pumping system:

1. A water collection pit is being made in the basement. A hole is dug with a perimeter of half a meter by half a meter and 50 cm in depth. It must also be reinforced with brickwork or concrete. Next, about 0.1 meters of gravel is placed in the hole.
2. At the next stage, the owner of the cellar will have to purchase an automatic drainage pump that triggers at a certain water level.

The basic rules for installing such structures are quite simple. The pump, with special hoses connected to it, is placed in a dug hole. The hoses are routed outside as far as possible from the room. If the groundwater level increases, its excess will first accumulate in the prepared pit. In this case, you should resort to using a pump that will pump out water until the level of flooding water drops to a minimum.

The advantages of the system are its relative simplicity and low cost of drying. In addition, all these nodes are quite easy to configure. However, this was not without its drawbacks. One of the vulnerable links in the system is the pump. If it fails, the entire assembly will have to be replaced. And don’t forget that by pumping out excess moisture, you will not get rid of the problem as a whole!

Basement waterproofing

A high-quality water barrier will help ensure waterproofing of floors and walls. Typically, waterproofing layers contain three layers: penetrating waterproofing, mastic, and plaster. All three layers are applied with a reserve in height, since it can be quite difficult to predict the height of flooding.

What we need for high-quality waterproofing:

1. First, let's purchase materials for waterproofing (for example, Penetron or Hydrotex).
2. Will need bitumen mastic, waterproof cement, sand and mesh for plaster.
3. From the tools we will take a spatula, a hard brush and a container for preparing the solution.
4. And finally, we will need a clean, prepared room, from which, if necessary, we need to pump out water.

Installation of waterproofing:

1. First, we treat the walls and concrete floor with waterproofing. This composition has the property of being absorbed to a great depth and closing cracks.
2. Bitumen mastic will hide joints and seams concrete structures. Finally, apply an even layer of a couple of centimeters of mastic to the remaining surfaces.
3. For better fastening plaster, a mesh must be installed on the wall. The plaster itself should be applied in an even layer, 3 cm thick.
4. In conclusion cement mortar the mesh is poured on the floor. And when all the plaster has dried, we can consider that the waterproofing process is complete!

How to dry a cellar after flooding

In addition to groundwater, dampness in the underground of a wooden house can also appear due to poorly organized ventilation. The first thing to do to eliminate a flood is to check the cleanliness ventilation ducts and, if necessary, clean them. If the ventilation is clean, but the dampness still does not go away, it means that the exhaust and air supply are designed or built incorrectly. All this happens when the air in the basement is colder than outside. As is known, heavy cold air up by myself special pipe will not work, which means forced ventilation is needed.

The main option for drying a basement, in this case, is to install a powerful exhaust fan and ensure the most comfortable conditions for the air entering the cellar. With such an organization of circulation air masses your cellar can dry out completely in a week.

There is also a “folk” way to dry a cellar - stimulating air movement using a candle. If you use electrical appliances impossible, you will have to slightly modify the configuration of the exhaust pipe (the one located under the ceiling). It needs to be extended to the floor, so that there is about fifteen centimeters left to it. A candle is placed in the resulting space, which is designed to heat the air in various diameters pipes, thereby creating draft. It happens that one candle is not enough for good draft; in this case, a burner is used.

In any case, be careful, make sure that this entire structure does not set fire to nearby objects!

Conclusion

Waterproofing will not only prevent interaction with groundwater through cracks, but will also extend the life of your cellar. In addition, waterproofing can be placed in any basement, unlike the drainage analogue.

After reading this article, you should not have any questions about how to remove water from the basement.