Technology of gluing and painting surfaces. Technology for repairing surfaces covered with wallpaper and film Technology for repairing surfaces covered with various materials
Page 7 of 13
Painting and pasting technologysurfaces.
Painting work includes painting various wooden, plastered, stone, concrete and metal surfaces. Essence painting work- painting with colored and colorless compounds, which dry into a film. It gives an elegant look, protects metals from corrosion, wooden structures from fire, all painted elements from chemically aggressive environments, and improves the sanitary and hygienic conditions of the premises. Painting is also done for decorative and artistic purposes. interior spaces and the external appearance of buildings, it protects against premature wear and increases the service life of buildings and structures.
In the technological chain of construction work, painting is performed last (after plastering and tiling), with the exception of sanding and rubbing (varnishing) of parquet floors, laying linoleum, and installing electrical and sanitary fittings.
The following main types of painting are distinguished: lime, glue, casein, oil, enamel, emulsion and varnish. Last view coloring is used for final finishing already painted surfaces, and in addition to varnishing also includes polishing of these surfaces. The types of painting for each room are established by the project, and the painting work itself is carried out according to samples approved by technical supervision. Painting compositions and semi-finished products for painting work in the form of concentrates, pastes, briquettes and dry mixtures are prepared mechanized way in factories or procurement workshops. At the work site, it is only allowed to bring the compositions to a working viscosity, which ensures surface coverage without the compositions running off and without noticeable brush marks.
Brushes are used to apply paint compositions various sizes and forms, rollers with a fur or foam cover, hand and electric spray guns with fishing rods, compressor painting units with spray guns.
Types of wallpaper used.
You can begin wallpapering a room after all painting has been completed with water and oil compositions. Surfaces to be painted must be smooth and dry. You cannot paste wallpaper on damp and insufficiently dry surfaces, otherwise they will peel off and stains and mold will appear on them. It is not recommended to paste wallpaper directly onto a wooden surface, since when the wood dries, it will tear the wallpaper. Before pasting, such surfaces must be covered with calico or serpyanka soaked in paste.
To systematize the types of wallpaper, their conditional classification has been introduced, including surface type, water resistance, density and decor.
By surface type: wallpaper is smooth, with a relief pattern or with a deeply embossed pattern.
By water resistance: ordinary (cannot withstand wet wiping), waterproof (wet wiping without detergents) and washable wallpaper (allows the use of detergents).
By density: light with a density of up to 100 g/m2, heavy (density up to 150 g/m2) and multilayer fabric (density over 150 g/m2).
By decor: smooth one-color wallpaper with or without an abstract pattern, wallpaper with a repeating pattern that requires adjustment of the stripes when gluing, and wallpaper with a non-repeating pattern that requires special adjustment of the stripes.
Wallpapering walls is usually done after all other painting work, with the exception of the last painting of carpentry. One of the main distinctive features wallpaper - the material from which they are made. Paper, including two-layer wallpaper, vinyl coated with hard and foam vinyl, silk-screen printing, velor, textile, glass wallpaper and liquid wallpaper have been used. Velor and textile wallpaper the most beautiful, but also the most expensive; in addition, they scratch easily, absorb odors and cannot be washed, so they are used extremely rarely.
The wallpaper is smooth, shiny, light and with a fine texture, requiring careful preparation of the base, since all existing irregularities will appear after wallpapering. Embossed wallpaper allows you to hide small unevenness in walls and ceilings.
Section 3 PM 03 “Surface pasting various materials», must:
have practical experience:
· gluing surfaces with various materials
be able to:
· prepare glue
· control the quality of surface preparation and treatment
· apply adhesive compositions on a surface
· wallpaper the ceilings
· cover the walls with various wallpapers
· control the quality of wallpaper work
know:
· basics of labor legislation
rules for reading drawings
methods of organizing work in the workplace
· standards of consumption of raw materials and supplies for work performed
· basics of labor economics
· safety regulations
· types of basic materials used in the production of wallpaper
· requirements for the quality of materials used in
wallpaper production
Methods for preparing surfaces for gluing surfaces
· purpose and rules for using hand tools, devices, machines and mechanisms
methods of cooking glue
· quality requirements
· safety rules when performing wallpaper work
· technology of covering ceilings and walls with wallpaper and films
· types of wallpaper
principle of wallpaper cutting
· gluing conditions various types wallpaper and films
Topic 3.1. Methods for preparing surfaces for wallpapering.
1. Make a table: “The sequence of processes when preparing surfaces for wallpapering on monolithic plaster and concrete, on dry gypsum plaster, on wood."
2.Write an abstract.
Topic for the abstract: “Adhesive compositions for wallpaper.”
Topic 3.2. Technology of wallpapering walls and ceilings.
1. Prepare an abstract.
Topic for the essay: “Which wallpaper to choose?”
2. Make a table of the most common defects on the surface when wallpapering. Indicate the causes and solutions.
3. Prepare a presentation of the project on a removable disk: “Apartment of the Future” - a collective work.
Section 4 PM. 03 Repair of painted and pasted surfaces.
In order to master this type professional activity and relevant professional competencies the student, in the course of mastering Section 4 PM. 04 “Repair of painted and pasted surfaces”, must:
have practical experience:
· Repair of painted and pasted surfaces
be able to:
Repair surfaces covered with wallpaper and films
Repair painted surfaces with various painting compounds
· control quality repair work
· observe safe conditions labor
know:
· technology for repairing surfaces covered with various materials, painted with water-based and non-water-based aqueous compounds
· requirements sanitary standards and rules for the repair of pasted and painted surfaces
· safety rules when performing repair work
Under this section for independent work offered:
Topic 4.2. Technology for repairing painted and pasted surfaces.
1. Compilation technological maps:
o For repair of painted surfaces with aqueous compounds;
o For repair of painted surfaces with non-aqueous compounds;
o For the repair of surfaces covered with wallpaper.
Criteria for evaluation.
An important part of a student’s independent work is the preparation and defense of abstracts, reports, projects, essays, tests and term papers.
Types of independent work when studying any discipline are preparing a report, abstract, messages or notes. These works are classified as written works.
1. Report – is a verbal or written statement of a message to a specific
The report is compiled according to the following algorithm:
1. Select literature on this topic and get acquainted with its content.
2. Using bookmarks, mark the most significant places or make
3.Make a plan for the report.
4. Write a plan for the report, at the end of which you must express your
5.attitude to the topic being presented and its content.
7.Format in accordance with the requirements for formatting written work.
Approximate structure of the report:
1. Title page
2. Explanatory note
3. Introduction
4. Text of the work
5. Conclusion.
3. List of used literature.
Abstract (from Latin refero – I report, I inform), summary in writing or in the form of a public presentation of the contents of the book, scientific work, results of studying a scientific problem; a report on a specific topic, including a review of relevant literature and other sources. As a rule, the abstract has a scientific and informational purpose.
In the process of working on an abstract, 4 stages can be distinguished:
1.Introductory – choosing a topic, working on an outline and introduction.
2. The main one is work on the content and conclusion of the abstract.
3. Final - preparation of the abstract.
4.Defense of the abstract (at an exam, student conference, etc.)
Abstract structure:
· Title page
· Introduction: justification of the topic of the abstract, its relevance, significance; listing the issues discussed in the abstract; determining the goals and objectives of the work; review of sources and literature. Its length is 1-3 pages.
· Main part: the main part has a title that expresses the essence of the abstract; it may consist of two or three sections, which also have a title. The main part provides a deep and systematic presentation of the state of the issue being studied; conflicting opinions contained in various sources, which are analyzed and evaluated with the utmost care.
· Conclusion ( conclusions and proposals): the results of the analysis of the evolution and development trends of the issue under consideration are formulated; Suggestions are given on ways to resolve significant issues.
The conclusion is 2-3 pages long.
When presenting the material, the following rules must be observed:
· It is not recommended to narrate in the first person singular. You need to choose impersonal forms of the verb. For example, instead of the phrase “I conducted an experiment,” it is better to write “an experiment conducted.”
· When mentioning surnames in the text, be sure to put initials before the surname.
· The quotation is given in the form in which it is given in the source and is enclosed in quotation marks on both sides.
· Each chapter begins on a new page.
3. Abstract - This is a consistent, coherent presentation of the material of a book or article in accordance with its logical structure. The main part of the summary consists of theses, but they are also supplemented with evidence, facts and extracts, diagrams and tables, as well as notes from the reader himself about what he read. If the abstract consists of only extracts, it is called textual summary. This is the most “non-developing” type of outline, since when compiling it, the student’s thought is practically turned off from the work, and the whole matter comes down to mechanical rewriting of the text. If the content of what you read is presented mainly in the form of exposition, retelling is free summary. If from what you read, only one or several problems related to the topic stand out as the main ones, but not the entire content of the book - a thematic summary.
4.Messages
Rules for writing a message
1. Using a card in the library, select literature on the topic.
2. Study the literature, draw up a plan for individual sections.
3. Make a message plan (systematization of the information received, conclusions and generalizations).
4. When creating messages, use drawings, diagrams, etc.
The time for reading a speech with a message and summary is 3-5 minutes, with a report and abstract 5-8 minutes.
Before pasting in the premises, it is necessary to carry out sanitary, electrical and painting work, remove the covers of sockets and switches, remove nails and studs from the walls, and cover gypsum mortar unnecessary holes, and after drying, cover them with paper.
· When preparing surfaces previously covered with plain wallpaper for pasting with the same wallpaper, you should tear off all loose and weakly glued wallpaper, and cover the areas freed from wallpaper with paper (newspaper). When preparing for pasting with thick wallpaper, the old wallpaper must be removed, otherwise, after drying, the new thick wallpaper will tear the old wallpaper off the walls. To make it easier to remove old wallpaper before renovation, use a paint roller. Dip it in hot water and walk over the old wallpaper - it will easily come off the walls.
When preparing to wallpaper surfaces that were previously painted with adhesive paint, regardless of the type of wallpaper, stains and peeling paint are removed from the walls using warm water, by sealing the peeling areas with paper or puttingtying them. The walls are covered without first covering the surfaces with paper.
· The surfaces prepared for gluing should be free of contamination (dust, splashes of solution, grease and bitumen stains, etc.), cracks more than 3 mm wide, unevenness up to 5 mm deep or high for simple paper wallpaper and up to 3 mm for other types of rolled materials.
The air temperature in the premises to be pasted should not be lower than +10 °C at relative humidity no higher than 70%. Do not open windows and doors until the wallpaper is completely dry.
· Use a string to mark the top edge of the wallpaper. Starting from the corners, cover all rooms with waste paper. (old newspapers). While the newspapers are drying, prepare the wallpaper - cut off the edge (on one or both sides, depending on the type of wallpaper and the accepted method of gluing). Simple wallpaper overlap wallpaper High Quality end to end. Therefore, in the first case, the edge is cut on one side, and in the second, on both sides.
When cutting an edge on one side, remember that when gluing overlapping wallpaper, the edge of the applied strip of wallpaper should always be facing the light. Edge from wallpaper for gluing the wall opposite the window, and outer wall, each has windows, can be trimmed on either side. The edge can be cut not with scissors, but sharp knife without unrolling the roll. To do this, first align the end of the roll and draw the edge border on the outside with a simple pencil. Working with a knife, the roll is gradually turned in the direction of its folding.
Examination card No. 26
Describe the technology for plastering stone surfaces using dry mixtures.
All types of dry gypsum plaster mixtures are intended for mechanized application (they are applied manually only to small surfaces).
Dry gypsum plaster mixtures (SGPS), prepared from gypsum for plastering internal (concrete, gypsum concrete, brick, wood, stone surfaces with an operational humidity of no more than 90%. The setting time of solutions from such mixtures is two to three times less than that of conventional plaster solutions If necessary, the setting time of mixtures is increased by introducing a complex additive (in a ratio of 1:19) containing a dry retarder and components that increase the adhesion of the solution to the surface and water-holding capacity, as well as improving their technological characteristics.
The complex additive is prepared centrally, its shelf life is unlimited. If necessary, filler is added to the composition of the SGHS.
The dry gypsum mixture is mixed with water, which is continuously fed into the mixing hopper.
Work with the mixture is carried out in heated rooms at a temperature of 8 ° C and a relative air humidity of no more than 70%. For smooth concrete and plaster concrete surfaces apply single-layer plaster.
The surface is impregnated with a solution of polyvinyl acetate dispersion and cleaned of dust and dirt. Using a slats and a plumb line, the deviations of the walls from the vertical are determined, the direction of the slopes and places of unevenness in the masonry are marked on the wall with chalk, and mortar deposits are removed from the surface.
When checking with the control rule, the gaps should not exceed 3 mm, the husks and appendages should be straight and vertical. The surface under the covering layer must be rough. .The covering layer is first applied to top part walls with a circular motion of the fishing rod from left to right and from top to bottom. The nozzle is held at an angle of 60...90 ° to the surface to be treated at a distance of 30...50 cm. Since the solution hardens quickly, 15...20 minutes after application it is leveled with trowels, periodically moistened with water. To avoid cutting off the applied solution, the upper edge of the trowel is raised. The removed excess mortar is collected on panels laid around the perimeter of the walls.
On uneven surfaces 2...3 layers of mortar are applied from brick and other stone materials (spray, soil, covering). To apply the spray and primer, solutions with filler (sand, expanded perlite or vermiculite) are used, and for the covering layer, solutions prepared directly from the dry SGHS mixture are used. The thickness of the spray layer depends on the quality of the surface, but not less than 5 mm in relation to the most prominent irregularity on the surface.
The spray layer applied to the prepared base is leveled with a metal trowel until compacted. Immediately after spraying, apply a primer layer and level it in the same way. The covering layer is smoothed with metal trowels.
During application plaster layers it is necessary to systematically monitor the homogeneity and consistency of the solution leaving the nozzle. The readiness of the surface for covering and the readiness of the covering layer for painting are determined using a moisture meter. The humidity of the primed surface with a two-layer coating should not exceed 20...23%, with a three-layer coating - 18...20%.
The use of SGShS reduces labor costs when performing plastering and painting work by reducing the operations of grouting and puttying. In addition, cement and lime are saved and the quality of finishing is improved.
Combined covering mixtures are prepared from dry plaster mixtures based on mineral binders (lime-sand or terrasite) with the addition of synthetic or adhesive putties, mixed in the required proportions (up to 20% of the dry mixture) and sealed with water. Solutions from these mixtures are applied at a temperature not lower than 10 °C.
Combined mixtures are used for improved and high-quality finishing of residential premises, cultural and industrial buildings.
If pigments and decorative fillers or additives (crushed and colored mica, vermiculite, sawdust, etc.) are introduced into the mixtures, then coatings made from them cannot be painted.
The composition is applied to the prepared surface in an even layer 2.5...5 mm thick using a circular motion of the fishing rod. The nozzle is held at an angle of 60...90 ° at a distance of 50...70 cm from the surface. After leveling with a trowel or steel trowel, the surface is rubbed electric machines until completely smooth. The water supply to the troweling disk is controlled by a valve mounted on the body of the trowel. Places that are not accessible for mechanical grouting are treated manually with a foam float in a circular motion. Husks and appendages, slopes and abutments are rubbed over with husk and appendage rules.
When finishing the surface with combined solutions for improved painting, there is no need for continuous putty, and when finishing for wallpapering, there is no need to paste the walls with waste paper.
One of the types of dry mixtures is a mixture for producing artificial marble. It includes (May 4) white and gray cement - 1, marble flour - i... 1.25, pigment - to the required color.
Marble flour is poured into the box in an even layer, and dry flour is poured onto it. cement mixture, to which pigment was previously added. All this is mixed until a homogeneous composition is obtained. Then the mixture is leveled, filled with water (38...40% by weight of the binder) and mixed thoroughly again. The surface is primed with liquid cement mortar, then the marble mortar is laid on it using a spatula method. As the solution is laid, it is carefully leveled with a screed or lath and compacted with a spatula-trowel. After this, the mortar beacons are removed and marble mortar is applied instead. In 3...4 days. after laying, the marble plaster is polished with fine-grained carborundum No. 80; 100 and 120, wetting the surface with water using a sponge. If the surface is very hardened, use abrasive stone with larger grain (No. 40...50). After grinding, the sludge is thoroughly washed off with water. A thin layer of putty (cement mixed with pigment) is applied to the sanded surface. glue solution), ground into a thin plastic mass: rub it into the pores of marble with a narrow marble block until the pores disappear on the surface and it becomes completely smooth.
Excess putty applied is leveled with a steel trowel or steel trowel from the floor up to 2/3 of the height of the wall and then from the ceiling down to the remaining "/3 of the height from the scaffolding or scaffolding. After leveling, the surface of the covering layer is rubbed with SO-86 or SO-112 trowels until " until it becomes smooth. Consumption of coating mixture per 1 m2 of surface is 2...13 kg.
Permissible deviations (in mm) of surfaces finished with combined covering solutions, depending on the type of finishing, are given in table. 7.
Ready-made polymer-cement dry mixtures are delivered to the construction site in double packaging (mineral and polymer parts). At a construction site, these parts are only mixed, covering them with water.
Before applying the polymer-cement composition, the concrete surface is moistened with water or treated with a polyvinyl acetate primer (10% polyvinyl acetate emulsion and 90% water) in one go. 30 minutes after priming, the finishing composition is applied to the surface in one step using a special paint sprayer or a brush, followed by trimming. There are no special requirements for the surfaces to be finished, since the paste-like mass covers small potholes, thin cracks, etc. well. Due to the fact that the composition includes water, they work with polymer cements only at positive temperatures.
For getting decorative effects pieces of multi-colored stones, marble, rubber, as well as fine particles metals After hardening, the mass applied to the surface is polished in the same way as marble. The particles of included materials exposed in this way impart to the surface beautiful view. Single or multiple decorative inlays can be manually pressed into the applied but not yet hardened polymer cement mass.
When mixing mixtures different colors marble-like compositions are obtained.
TOOLS FOR WALLPAPERING
1. Scissors.
2. Roller for leveling pasted wallpaper.
3. Brush for smoothing wallpaper.
4. Brush for spreading glue.
6. Ruler.
7. Roller knife.
When accepting work, they check the compliance of the wallpaper with the samples approved by the designer's supervision. Wallpaper work is accepted only after the surfaces covered with both have dried or after the linkcrust has been glued.
The quality of wallpaper work must meet the following requirements:
There should be no bubbles or stains on the pasted surfaces;
All panels must have the same color and shade;
The fit of the pattern at the joints must be precise - with tolerances of no more than +0.5 mm;
Omissions, pastings and peelings are not allowed;
When wallpaper is glued end to end, the joints of the wallpaper should not be noticeable at a distance of 3 m.
When gluing overlapping wallpaper, the edge of the panel should be facing the light - towards the windows.
DIARY-REPORT No. 27
date<<13>>06 2015
Subject: Preparing surfaces for painting.
Target: Know the techniques for preparing surfaces for painting.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - brush, roller.
Task 1. Preparing surfaces for painting.
Before painting, surfaces must be prepared in a certain way. Before painting work begins, everything in the premises is completed construction works(except for laying linoleum on floors and laying parquet), electrical work, installation and testing central heating, water supply, sewerage. The surface to be painted must have a certain humidity (for plastered and concrete surfaces no more than 8%, and for wooden surfaces - 12%). IN winter conditions Internal painting work is carried out in insulated and heated rooms at a temperature of the coolest surfaces above 8°C. Wooden structures must be well secured and free from cracks, burrs and other defects. Window and door blocks are delivered to objects painted once (i.e. all processes preceding the first painting are carried out by the manufacturer).
DIARY-REPORT No. 28
date<<13>>06 2015
Subject: Facade painting acrylic paints.
Target: Know the techniques of painting facades with acrylic paints.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - brush, roller.
Task 1. Painting facades with acrylic paints.
| TECHNOLOGY OF PAINTING FACADES WITH ACRYLIC PAINTS |
| The article discusses one of the ways to protect the facade from premature aging - painting with paints and varnishes. In particular, the most common type of facade coatings is presented - based on aqueous acrylic dispersion. Acrylic coatings are characterized environmental safety and high performance. Service life and performance properties paint coating depend not only on the quality of the paint, but also on the preparation of the facade surface and compliance with application technologies. Therefore, we will consider in detail all stages of painting. Preparing the surface of the facade The surface of the facade should be clean, not crumbling or chalking, dry, without signs of fungal infections. Old crumbling and cracked layers of paintwork must be removed. To strengthen the “chalking” surfaces, you can use an acrylic primer deep penetration, for example primer VD-AK-051 trademark Galamix diluted with water in a ratio of 1:2. Putty Before painting, it is necessary to level the surface of the facade - fill chips, cracks, recesses, etc. In order to prevent the putty from drying too quickly due to the absorption of water into the wall surface, it is recommended to prime the wall first. A consequence of the quick drying of the putty may be the appearance of “scoring” during puttying. For the same reason, when applying putty in 2 layers, it is advisable to carry out intermediate priming of the first layer. Please note that before painting with water-dispersed acrylic paints, it is necessary to use water-based putties. If the final painting is done with structural paints that create a relief pattern, the presence of small grooves, cracks and chips on the surface is allowed. This is due to the fact that acrylic structural paints Usually applied in a thick layer and can hide small surface defects. Therefore, the puttying stage can be excluded from technological process when using structural paints. Priming To increase the service life of the paint and varnish coating, it is necessary to pre-prime the surface of the facade. Priming will protect the wall from exposure There are two main types of acrylic primers available. Deep penetration primers are recommended for highly porous substrates, for strengthening fragile surfaces, for use in rooms with high humidity. Another type of primer is filled; they fill minor defects and surface unevenness. Both types of acrylic primers form a thin film on the surface of the facade, level its porosity and moisture absorption, and stabilize surface layer, allow you to avoid different shades of the coating after painting. Acrylic primers are suitable for application to new and previously painted concrete, plasterboard, brick, plaster and wooden surfaces before painting them with water-dispersed acrylic facade paints. Primers can be applied manually - with a roller, brush, or by pneumatic spraying. The consumption of primers depends on the absorbency of the façade surface. For example, for acrylic primers of the Russian brand Galamix, the average consumption is 80-120 g/m2. Painting the facade with acrylic paints Acrylic water-dispersion paints have increased weather resistance, allow gases and water vapor to pass through well, and are highly resistant to washing and wet abrasion. Styrene-acrylic paints have higher alkali resistance than acrylic paints, which is important when painting highly alkaline concrete surfaces. However, the durability of the paint, which implies the absence of chalking, yellowing, cracking, peeling, and dirt absorption, is determined not only by the nature of the binder. It is important that the ratio of fillers and pigments in relation to the binder in the paint is selected correctly. |
Optimal ratio
date<<13>>06 2015
Subject: provides good adhesion, low water absorption combined with the ability to diffuse air and water vapor from interior spaces. The type and amount of pigment included in the paint is also important. The amount of pigment determines the hiding power of the paint, and accordingly its consumption, and the light fastness depends on the quality and chemical nature of the pigment, i.e. color change due to solar radiation. The paint must contain additives that affect its stability during storage and ease of application.
Target: DIARY-REPORT No. 29
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Painting facades with silicate compounds.
Know the techniques of painting facades with silicate compounds.
The surface for painting with silicate paints must be carefully prepared. Loose surfaces (plaster, brick) are pre-primed with water or, if this does not help, with a solution liquid glass (specific gravity 1.13-1.15) with chalk; Painting in the case of priming with water is carried out on a wet surface.
The required strength of the primer is determined by test painting on the surfaces of buildings. If, 2-4 hours after applying the primer, the wall is not spotty or chalking, its coating has a summer shine (resembling the shine eggshells) - the primer has been selected successfully and you can start painting. When shallowing, the strength of the liquid glass solution is strengthened, and when spotted, it is weakened.
Painting is done in two layers. The second layer is applied no earlier than 20 hours later. after the first painting. Painting works Usually done with a spray gun, but can also be done with a roller, brush or spray gun at air temperatures below 24°. In dry, sunny weather, facades facing south should be painted only before 10 a.m. morning. It is impossible to work with silicate paints at sub-zero temperatures.
DIARY-REPORT No. 30
date<<13>>06 2015
Subject: Facade painting cement compositions.
Target: Know the techniques of painting facades with cement compositions.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
The surface for painting with cement compositions must be prepared as for conventional painting of facades, and after washing it should be abundantly moistened with water to create normal conditions for cement hardening and prevent water from being sucked out of the paint composition.
Painting on the prepared surface is carried out twice using spray guns, rollers or brushes, and the second painting is carried out a day later, carefully protecting the freshly painted surface from the action of direct sun rays, otherwise rapid drying will disrupt normal conditions cement hardening.
0.5-0.9 kg of dry paint is consumed per 1 m2 of surface.
To avoid damage to the tool, it must be washed immediately after finishing work, trying to use any breaks in work for this.
DIARY-REPORT No. 31
date<<02>>03 2016
Subject: Painting facades with lime compounds.
Target: Know the techniques of painting facades with lime compounds.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Technology of painting facades.
Task 2. Defects, the reason for their occurrence and ways to eliminate them
DIARY-REPORT No. 32
date<<03>>03 2016
Subject: Repair of surfaces painted with water-based compounds.
Target: Know the techniques for repairing surfaces painted with aqueous compounds .
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 2. Requirements preparatory work
DIARY-REPORT No. 33
date<<04>>03 2016
Subject:Preparation of plaster surfaces for painting vinyl chloride compounds.
Target:Know the techniques of preparing plaster surfaces for painting vinyl chloride compounds .
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Preparation technology.
Task 2. Defects and ways to eliminate them.
DIARY-REPORT No. 34
date<<05>>03 2016
Subject:Repair of concrete surfaces painted with oil paints. .
Target:Know how to repair concrete surfaces painted with oil paints.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Application technology.
Task 2. Defects and their elimination.
DIARY-REPORT No. 35
date<<07>>03 2016
Subject: Pasting borders and friezes.
Target: Know the techniques of gluing borders and friezes.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. What are borders and friezes.
Task 2. Where are they used?
DIARY-REPORT No. 36
date<<08>>03 2016
Subject: Features of painting work in winter conditions.
Target: Know the requirements when performing painting work in winter conditions.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. requirement for painting work in winter conditions..
DIARY-REPORT No. 37
date<<08>>03 2016
Subject: Execution methods and quality control for alternative work.
Target: Be familiar with methods of execution and quality control for alternative work.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Preparation requirements and methods of implementation.
Task 2. Quality control.
DIARY-REPORT No. 38
date<<09>>03 2016
Subject: Painting surfaces with casein compounds.
Target: Know the techniques of painting surfaces with casein compositions . .
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Technology of painting work.
Task 2. Defects and ways to eliminate them.
DIARY-REPORT No. 39
date<<10>>03 2016
Subject: Painting parquet flooring with special compounds.
Target: Know the techniques of painting parquet flooring with special compounds.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Painting parquet flooring with special compounds.
DIARY-REPORT No. 40
date<<11>>03 2016
Subject: Processing and painting of metal surfaces by manual and mechanized methods.
Target: Proficient in techniques for processing and painting metal surfaces using manual and mechanized methods.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Processing and painting of metal surfaces by manual and mechanized methods.
DIARY-REPORT No. 41
date<<12>>03 2016
Subject: Coloring various surfaces under the texture step gray.
Target: Know the techniques of painting various surfaces to match the texture of step gray.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Painting various surfaces with a gray step texture.
DIARY-REPORT No. 42
date<<14>>03 2016
Subject: Painting window and door surfaces with oil-based compounds.
Target: Know the techniques of painting window and door surfaces with oil-based compounds.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Painting window and door surfaces with oil compositions.
DIARY-REPORT No. 43
date<<15>>03 2016
Subject: Pasting concrete surfaces with embossed wallpaper.
Target: Know the techniques of covering concrete surfaces with embossed wallpaper.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Painting facades with cement compositions.
DIARY-REPORT No. 44
date<<16>>03 2016
Subject: Pasting the plastered surface with vinyl wallpaper.
Target: Know the techniques of covering a plastered surface with vinyl wallpaper.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Pasting the plastered surface with vinyl wallpaper.
DIARY-REPORT No. 45
date<<17>>03 2016
Subject: Pasting a plasterboard surface with washable wallpaper.
Target: Know the techniques of covering plasterboard surfaces with washable wallpaper.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Pasting a plasterboard surface with washable wallpaper.
DIARY-REPORT No. 46
date<<18>>03 2016
Subject: Pasting a wooden surface with paper wallpaper.
Target: Know the techniques of covering a wooden surface with paper wallpaper.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Pasting a wooden surface with paper wallpaper.
DIARY-REPORT No. 47
date<<21>>03 2016
Subject: Pasting the field with vinyl with chloride self-adhesive films.
Target: Know the techniques of covering vinyl fields with self-adhesive chloride films.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Covering the field with vinyl chloride self-adhesive films.
DIARY-REPORT No. 48
date<<22>>03 2016
Subject: Repair of painted surfaces with aqueous compounds.
Target: master techniques for repairing painted surfaces with aqueous compounds.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Technology for repairing painted surfaces with aqueous compounds.
Task 2. Defects and ways to eliminate them.
DIARY-REPORT No. 49
date<<23>>03 2016
Subject: Repair of painted surfaces with a water-based composition.
Target: know how to repair painted surfaces with a water-based composition.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Technology for repairing painted surfaces with a water-based composition.
DIARY-REPORT No. 50
date<<24>>03 2016
Subject: Repair of painted surfaces with non-aqueous compounds.
Target: master techniques for repairing painted surfaces with non-aqueous compounds.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Technology for repairing plaster and concrete surfaces with non-aqueous compounds.
Task 2. Defects and ways to eliminate them.
Task 3. SNiP requirements for improved painting with molar compositions.
DIARY-REPORT No. 51
date<<25>>03 2016
Subject: Repair of wooden and metal surfaces.
Target: Know how to repair wood and metal surfaces.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Repair technology.
Task 2. Defects and ways to eliminate them.
Task 3. SNiP requirements for improved painting.
DIARY-REPORT No. 52
date<<26>>03 2016
Subject: Repair of pasted surfaces.
Target: Know the techniques for repairing laminated surfaces.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Technology of repair and repair of laminated surfaces.
Task 2. Cause defects.
Task 3. SNiP requirements for the quality of repair work.
DIARY-REPORT No. 53
date<<28>>03 2016
Subject: Repair of surfaces covered with vinyl chloride films.
Target: Know the techniques for repairing surfaces covered with vinyl chloride films.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Repair of surfaces covered with vinyl chloride films.
DIARY-REPORT No. 54
date<<29>>03 2016
Subject: Painter's workplace and individual means are protected.
Target: Know workplace painter and personal protective equipment.
Location: Training workshops
Working hours - 6 hours
Tools - drill with stirrer, whisk, spatula.
Task 1. Painting facades with cement compositions.
It is quite acceptable to wallpaper a variety of surfaces. The base must be completely dry, smooth and even, free from dust and other contaminants. On a damp base, wallpaper adhesives will swell or even rot, causing stains to appear on the wallpaper.
In addition, wet and rotting wallpaper glue smells quite unpleasant. You should not stick wallpaper to glossy surfaces, as they will not adhere to them anyway.
If wallpaper is glued to rough surfaces, then there is a fairly high probability that it will soon come off. To prevent this from happening, plastered walls are covered with a layer of putty. For this purpose, semi-oil putties are most suitable, the basis of which is chalk sifted through a fine sieve. Before applying the putty, the surface is primed, for which vitriol primer is best suited. The putty is applied in one or two layers. Wherein upper layer carefully leveled and cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper.
Surfaces covered with plaster must be inspected very carefully. If there is a coating of lime or glue on them, it should be removed completely, otherwise the wallpaper will not adhere well. After removing the stain, the surface must be thoroughly wiped with a wet, hard cloth.
If there are cracks in the plaster, they are widened and all loose plaster is removed. The resulting surface is thoroughly moistened with water and covered with cement-sand mortar. The seams are rubbed so that they are flush with the rest of the surface. Upon completion of the repair, the surface is thoroughly dried, treated with a wooden block, which will help make it more even, and lastly cleaned of dust. You need to remember that all seams and roughness will be very clearly visible on the surface of the wallpaper, especially on paper.
When preparing concrete or gypsum slag surfaces, they are first inspected, all existing irregularities are cut down, covered with mortar and rubbed down. It is not advisable to use gypsum for these purposes, since when it hardens it tends to expand, so a raised area may form on the surface, which will be very noticeable on the wallpaper.
Wooden surfaces, as well as surfaces made from fibreboard or particleboard, plywood or dry plaster, must be cleaned of dust. In places where the plates are joined to each other, they can protrude, so they are treated with sandpaper, covered with a layer of drying oil, and putty. It is acceptable to simply seal the cracks with paper strips or gauze. The heads of the nails are sunk into the solid slab or plywood to a depth of 1 mm, covered with a layer of drying oil and putty.
It must be remembered that sheets of dry plaster have two sides - smooth and rough. They should be attached to the wall with the rough side. If they have already been nailed in reverse, then the rough surface is covered with a primer, onto which a layer of putty is then applied.
All wooden surfaces are covered with cardboard before wallpapering.
Surfaces already covered with old wallpaper are prepared in a variety of ways. To remove the wallpaper, they are moistened with warm water and left for 10 minutes, after which the wallpaper should easily come off the base. In some cases, the wallpaper may not be removed. This can be done if the wallpaper being glued has a lower density compared to the existing wallpaper.
Before wallpapering walls, you need to glue them, that is, cover the base with the same composition that will be used to glue the wallpaper. This is done using a swing brush. A film of adhesive is formed on the surface, thanks to which the wallpaper will stick more firmly. In addition, the film will also help protect the wallpaper from the effects of various alkalis and other substances contained in the base.
If adhesives are produced at hot water, then you will also have to glue it with a hot compound, distributing it very well over the surface and leaving no gaps or clumps. The upper parts of the walls are treated most carefully.
After gluing, they begin to cover the walls with paper, which is very important for thick, embossed or washable wallpaper, since this is the technology specified in SNiP. Smooth gypsum or concrete surfaces, as well as various kinds sheet materials You don't have to cover it with paper.
Each sheet of paper is smoothed out well so that all the air comes out from under it. Thin paper adheres better to the surface and also serves as a primer for wallpaper. In addition, it smoothes out minor irregularities.
It is easiest and most convenient to use newspapers as a primer for wallpaper. They are placed in a stack on the floor or on a table. Begin gluing from the top of the wall. Thin paper is glued with a slight overlap, thick paper is glued end to end, trying to avoid gaps, swelling or wrinkles, as this will then negatively affect the final result.
Lubricate thick paper with glue 2-3 times so that it is saturated with it and becomes softer, then the gluing process will be much easier.
Near the platbands or baseboards, the paper is glued end-to-end, but it should not be placed on the baseboards themselves, since the paper will most likely quickly peel off from them. Often there are cracks or even gaps between the wall and the baseboards. They need to be cleared and sealed with either gypsum or cement-sand mortar.
Wallpaper must be prepared before gluing. To do this, the edges of the rolls are cut off and cut into separate panels. The edge must be cut very carefully along the existing line. If the density of the wallpaper does not exceed 100 g/m2, then they can be glued overlapping. In this case, the edges should be directed towards the movement of light. For wallpaper that needs to be glued end to end, both edges are cut off.
The wallpaper needs to be rolled out a little and inspected for various types of defects, and then sorted by color uniformity. Uniform wallpaper is pasted in places where the walls will be open, and non-uniform wallpaper is glued behind furniture, in dark corners, in a word, where it will not be too noticeable.
If you are working with wallpaper with a pattern, you need to cut the panel so that the pattern at the joints coincides (Fig. 25).
If the drawing is large enough, you should make a small margin. In addition, all panels should have an allowance of 5-10 cm, since in many rooms the ceiling height is uneven, and such a deficiency is often found not only in old houses, but also in new ones. After gluing, the excess is cut off from the baseboard with scissors or, more preferably, with a knife along a ruler.
The easiest way to combine a pattern is as follows: roll out several rolls on the floor at once, lay them so that the pattern matches, and then cut along a ruler with a knife. The cut panels are placed in a stack or rolled into a roll. After cutting, as a rule, a significant number of pieces will remain, which can be useful in the process of pasting walls above and below windows, above doors, as well as in places where an exact match of the pattern is required. For example, in the figure below (Fig. 26) you can see a scan of the walls of the room, which need to be covered with wallpaper of various lengths.
a slight discrepancy between the upper lines of the panels is allowed, since it will hide these irregularities underneath.
Wallpaper begins to be glued from the window and leads into the interior of the room. Each first panel on the next wall must be glued strictly vertically. To comply with this condition, it is necessary to measure a distance from the corner of the room equal to the width of the panel and use a plumb line to determine its position (Fig. 27).
The last panel on the wall should not be glued strictly to the corner, but should overlap it by 2-3 cm. To do this, even before applying the glue, you need to determine which piece of wallpaper will be superfluous and remove it. On next wall the panel must be glued flush to the corner to cover the overlapped strip. It is also quite acceptable to paste over the corners with a whole panel, but only if they have a perfectly flat surface, since otherwise wrinkles will appear on the wallpaper.
It is best to apply glue to wallpaper on the floor or long table. In this case, the floor must be covered with newspapers, having previously cleared it of debris and dust. The panels should be stacked face down on top of each other so that each subsequent one protrudes from under the other by 1 cm or more. When laying, the panels may inadvertently roll up. To prevent this from happening, you can put a small weight on them.
Wallpaper glue should be applied with a brush along the length of the panel, avoiding clumps or gaps, and its layer should not be very thick (Fig. 28).
For more reliable adhesion of the edges to the base, they need to be coated as thoroughly as possible. That is why professionals recommend initially coating the edges as best as possible, and only then proceeding with applying the glue to the rest of the panel. When it is completely covered with glue, you need to apply it again to the edges. However, there should not be too much glue, otherwise it will protrude from under the wallpaper and contaminate its front side. In this case, excess should be removed with a clean, dry cloth.
The first sheet of wallpaper is glued exactly along the marked vertical line in the direction from the window into the depths of the room so that their joints are as less noticeable as possible.
It is quite acceptable to work alone, but it is much easier and more convenient to work with a partner, because during the gluing process you will have to climb up and down the stairs every now and then.
After the panel is glued to the wall, it needs to be smoothed from above and then from below, starting from the middle and gradually moving towards the edges, carefully ensuring that there are no folds, bubbles or poorly glued edges. A soft, dry cloth is suitable for smoothing (Fig. 29).
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Rice. 29. Smoothing the pasted panel
If you are working in pairs, then one person should be at the top, standing on a table, stepladder or chair. The other one at this moment smears the panels, folds them in a certain way and serves them upstairs.
The person standing at the top takes the wallpaper by one end and straightens the folded sheet. The worker below takes the lower end and slightly stretches the wallpaper, applies the edge exactly to the marked vertical, glues the entire panel, and then smoothes it with a soft cloth, as described above (Fig. 30). You should smooth it as carefully as possible so as not to smear the paint on the front side of the wallpaper.
It also happens that air bubbles remain under the wallpaper, which cannot be eliminated by smoothing. In this case, the bubble must be pierced with a needle, all the accumulated air must be squeezed out through the resulting hole and smoothed.
If the pattern on the wallpaper becomes smeared even with the slightest smoothing, this operation should be performed through a sheet of clean paper, and newspapers cannot be used for this purpose, as they will leave paint on the surface of the wallpaper.
When the first panel is glued, you can start gluing the second one, but the uncut edge of the first panel should not protrude, thus, each subsequent panel will overlap the edge of the previous one.
Quite often a situation arises that the next panel does not stick well or even lags behind the edge of the previously glued one. This can happen because the wallpaper does not adhere to the paint that covers the edge. In this case, you need to carefully lubricate it again using a small brush, and when the glue has set a little, glue the next panel.
You should not apply too much glue to the wallpaper, as it will not hold up better, because as a result of smoothing, excess glue will still be removed, and the front side of the wallpaper will only become dirty, so you will have to constantly wipe it with a clean rag, which takes a lot of time , and the drawing may remain spoiled.
If there are sockets or switches on the walls that cannot be removed, they are dealt with as follows: first, apply a dry sheet to the wall, determine where the socket or switch will be located, cut a hole exactly to size, and only then apply glue and glue the wallpaper.
If you bought the wallpaper with enough high rate density (120 g/m2 or more), then they need to be glued end to end. The edges of the panels must be lifted, folded, glue applied to them again, glued and carefully smoothed.
Using this technology, wallpaper should be glued extremely carefully so that the glue does not stain the front side. To do this you can do the following: with reverse side Glue a strip of paper 2-3 cm wide along the entire length of the panel to be glued. Then it will rest with its edge on this paper, which is removed, and the outer part of the wallpaper is glued thoroughly.
