Finishing putty for concrete. Plastering walls - getting acquainted with technologies. Putty for concrete walls. Starting surface putty
At first glance, wallpapering seems simple, but in fact this process requires patience, and most importantly - the right approach. Everything should happen in several stages. First, the old coating is removed, then rough finish, and at the end decoration is carried out. But some people ignore the second stage of work, which is why the result is not entirely successful. Puttying walls under wallpaper is the most crucial moment; not only the final result, but also your self-esteem depends on it.
Selection of materials, tools
Putty has many obvious advantages. For example, it provides a perfectly smooth surface, smoothes out sagging plaster, and eliminates small cracks and depressions. Any material that you use as finishing will ideally fit on a properly prepared wall.
Before you begin to putty the walls under wallpaper with your own hands, you will need to decide on the materials. They are presented in a wide range, and vary not only in price, but also in composition. The most accessible are dry mixtures; they need to be diluted with water before use. Expensive materials ready-to-use mixtures are considered.
During the work process, you cannot do without the following tools for puttying walls:
- spatula (angular, straight 10-15 cm, 25-30 cm);
- a drill with an insert mixer for mixing the putty mixture;
- sandpaper for grouting;
- brush/roller for priming;
- clean container for 15-25 liters.
Features of working with drywall
It is customary to cover very crooked walls with plasterboard, which allows not only to level the surface, but also to create decorative shapes. Dry sheets gypsum plaster They have a smooth, even surface, but they are not monolithic and are available in certain sizes. Puttying plasterboard walls is mandatory, because after its installation, joints and attachment points appear. If we talk about mixtures suitable for it, then any (cement, polymer, gypsum) will do. The main thing is to take into account in which room the renovation is being done. For example, the first option is suitable for the bathroom.
The technology for puttingtying walls under wallpaper involves their initial treatment with a primer. For this you will need a roller, and for hard-to-reach places you can use brushes. After complete drying, proceed to leveling the surface using plaster or starting putty. The applied layer must also dry, after which it is covered with a primer.
If you are using a dry mixture, you will need to prepare it according to the instructions. First, water and powder are mixed with a spatula; when the composition becomes thicker, a drill with a mixer is used. Its readiness is determined by consistency. In order to completely satisfy you with the result, it is more advisable to use the best spatulas for puttying walls, i.e., made from high-quality materials.
Apply the starting mixture with a large spatula in medium portions and distribute it evenly over the entire surface. The tool must be held at an angle of 25-30 degrees, movements are made diagonally. To avoid the formation of bumps and transitions, each layer is applied overlapping each other. To ensure perfectly even corners, a special corner-type spatula is used, but before this the putty is applied with a small tool. The first layer of “start” should dry well, after which you can proceed to the “finish”. At this stage of puttying walls under wallpaper, a mixture of fine-grained composition is used. It is applied twice in layers of 1-2 mm. After complete drying, the surface is sanded.
What about concrete walls?
Preparing walls for puttying in a new building is not much different from working with drywall. In this case, if there are large chips, wide cracks, or potholes, they need to be repaired using cement mortar. If deviations from the vertical plane are significant, then a layer of leveling plaster must be applied. For this purpose, beacons made of T-shaped metal profiles are installed. The plaster mixture must be applied to a previously primed surface, leveling is carried out using building regulations.
If you moved into an apartment where the walls were painted, you will have to work hard to clean the surface. You should not try to sand the surface or simply prime the paint, because the wallpaper will not last long on such walls. Better to use construction hair dryer, a grinding machine, an angle grinder with a wire brush or a special remover.
Putty application process
After the plaster and primer have completely dried, you can begin to putty concrete walls. The first step is to apply coarse putty, the thickness of its layer is at least 5 mm. The mixture is applied using a wide spatula with sweeping hand movements. After it has dried, the evenness of the wall is checked according to the rule; any errors are corrected by finishing putty. The mixture used for this differs more small particles. Finally, the walls are sanded and treated with a primer, after which wallpaper can be glued to them.
Hello Dear blog readers! A huge number of people, before hanging wallpaper, wonder whether it is necessary to putty and prime the walls. Even, it seems, priming and puttying walls under wallpaper with your own hands is easy to do, but are they really important and necessary? Is it worth spending your time and money? This is exactly what we will talk about next.
Summary of this article:
Why is it necessary to putty the walls before wallpapering?
Puttying the walls before wallpapering is necessary, first of all, to completely level the base of the walls. Thanks to this procedure, the wallpaper will lie evenly when hung and after drying, small tubercles and other irregularities will not appear, unlike an unprepared surface.
Also, the transparency of some modern species wallpaper If the walls were not prepared for wallpapering, then after the glue dries, you may see dark spots that were on the walls, and they will visually destroy all your repair efforts.
As you know, wall putty mixtures presented on the construction market are mostly light in color, most often even white. It is this property that will protect the wallpaper from various kinds transilluminations.
Then, plastering the walls gives a certain calm to the entire room, i.e. creates a good soundproofing effect (noise insulation).
In addition, putty walls create a strong, flat surface, with which the wallpaper will have the most reliable adhesion.
We must not forget about the good water resistance (waterproofing) of the walls after puttying. Putty walls repel moisture, which allows you to significantly save on wallpaper glue consumption when wallpapering.
Which is the best putty for walls under wallpaper?
Modern mixtures for puttying walls under wallpaper differ in both external characteristics, and in its composition.
According to the external characteristics of wall putties, the division is as follows:
- Mixtures in the form of a paste that come already in finished form and do not require further preparation.
- Dry powder mixtures which require the addition of liquid during preparation.
According to their composition, mixtures for puttying walls under wallpaper are divided into:
- Polymer mixtures, or as they are also called acrylic (latex). They are easy to apply to the wall and can also be easily rubbed and sanded in the future.
- Gypsum and cement mixtures. They are the best and most common. They are easy to use and very reliable. They require water to prepare.
- Dispersed-aqueous mixtures. They have a very viscous consistency and are sold ready-made. The only disadvantage of using them is a slight shrinkage after complete drying.
Most suitable for correct and trouble-free filling of walls before wallpapering are cement and gypsum dry powder mixtures, because they are easy to apply, and, having the properties of repelling moisture after drying, do not react chemically with wallpaper glue, which is diluted with water when prepared.
What tool is needed to putty walls under wallpaper?
The first step is to select a container for mixing the solution. It should be both roomy and comfortable.
The power tool will need an attachment called a mixer. This is a special construction attachment, a bit like a kitchen whisk for a mixer or blender. It is with its help that it will be possible to achieve the desired consistency of the solution.
Also an important tool when puttingtying walls under wallpaper is a building level, with which you will be able to complete all the work smoothly. This can be either a laser version or water, oil, or alcohol.
If the wall surface is very uneven, then you will need to apply the mixture in a thick layer. Here the rule will come to the rescue - both wooden and metal will do.
Of course, you can’t do without spatulas. various sizes. IN hard to reach places You will need small spatulas, and large ones in larger areas.
Brushes or rollers are also very important tools necessary when plastering walls under wallpaper. With their help, a special primer will be applied to the surface of the walls. deep penetration.
Don't forget about sandpaper, the so-called sandpaper (emery). You definitely need to stock up on it, both fine-grained and coarse-grained. With its help, grinding, you will need to bring the putty walls to perfection.
A sandpaper clamp, or as it is also called a manual sandpaper, will also come in handy. With its help, it is much faster and more convenient to grout or sand putty walls.
Preparing the wall surface for putty
The process of preparing walls for applying putty can be divided into the following stages:
- Removing a layer of whitewash from the walls. Don’t be surprised, many people still have a greasy layer of whitewash from Soviet times on their walls. To make it come off better, you need to moisten it with water, and after a while simply wipe it off with a large machine sponge; finish off difficult-to-remove areas with a spatula or scraper.
- Cleaning the surface of the walls from the old layer of wallpaper. Here, too, you cannot do without moisture; you need to generously moisten a layer of old wallpaper with warm water, walking over it with a dampened roller. You can make small notches on the wallpaper so that they absorb water faster with something sharp. Next, after waiting a little, remove the wallpaper with a large spatula or scraper, starting from the joints.
- Removing the old paint layer. Here you can simply mechanically scrape off the paint, but this is very labor-intensive and time-consuming. The most correct solution is heat treatment, i.e. heating the surface of walls with old paint gas burner or a hairdryer. After heating, the paint swells and is easily removed with a scraper or spatula.
- Primer of walls. Primer mixtures are very important - they create a dense film, the adhesion of subsequent finishing materials to which is very reliable. Also, primed walls are less susceptible to various kinds fungi and dampness.
After quality implementation of all these preparatory stages your walls are completely ready to apply putty.
Working with starting wall putty: main points
The main points that need to be remembered and observed when starting to putty walls for wallpaper are the following:
- To avoid cracking of the solution after drying, each layer of starting putty must be applied carefully, no thicker than 3 mm each.
- The base of the walls for starting putty must be properly primed in advance, only in this way the adhesion will be as strong as possible.
- The rough putty will sit even more firmly if you use a paint mesh underneath it. Thanks to it, it is possible to cover rather large wall defects when puttingty. It is very easy to putty on the mesh yourself; in addition, thanks to the painting mesh, putty is saved and its consumption is reduced.
- A very smooth surface is contraindicated for starting putty, for example, drywall, which has a very smooth structure. You can immediately apply the finishing layer of putty on it; the starting layer will hold less firmly, because she likes a more porous surface structure.
- After applying each layer of starting putty, it is imperative to prime the resulting layer, so that each subsequent layer will be bonded as securely as possible to the previous one.
After applying each layer of starting putty, it is imperative to prime the resulting layer, so that each subsequent layer will be bonded as securely as possible to the previous one.
Do-it-yourself wall putty using beacons for wallpaper
When you putty walls using beacons with your own hands under the wallpaper, these very beacons can act metal profiles, most often used for fastening plasterboard sheets, as well as any other convenient wooden or metal slats.
Initially, one strip is placed at the beginning and at the end of the wall, using a building level for accuracy - this can be either a laser level, a water level, or an alcohol level.
The slats themselves can be attached to the wall either using dowels with self-tapping screws, or using a gypsum mixture, which, after hardening, holds the beacons quite reliably.
Next, between installed beacons They pull the most ordinary rope, or any other thread available on the farm. After this, a control check is carried out again building level the correctness of the resulting design for wall putty.
Then, intermediate beacons are installed at a distance of the length of the rule. It is along them that the rule will walk, leveling the putty from bottom to top.
When independently puttingtying walls along beacons, a starting putty is also used, each subsequent applied layer of which must be thoroughly primed with a deep penetration primer.
Finishing putty on walls with your own hands under wallpaper: instructions with photos
Doing the finishing putty on walls with your own hands under wallpaper is not so difficult. If you have coped with the starting putty, then the finishing putty will definitely not cause you any hassle or difficulties.
All work during finishing putty is, in principle, similar to work during initial puttying of walls, with the exception of one point - each subsequent layer finishing putty should not be thicker than 2 mm, in contrast to the permissible 3 mm for initial puttying.
The main condition for starting finishing putty is a well-prepared wall surface, i.e. all possible remnants of the starting mixture on the surface of the walls must be removed with a wide iron spatula, and the wall itself must be properly sanded and primed.
An ideal result when finishing puttying walls can be achieved by using several carriers with powerful light bulbs. By directing streams of light from several sides at the same time, you can understand from the shadows formed where the most uneven areas are.
And vice versa, if shadows do not form at all, then the finishing putty work can be considered perfectly completed. Next, you will need to minimally clean the surface with fine-grained sandpaper and apply a primer.
How to properly apply putty on walls with your own hands - technology for applying mortar under wallpaper
In order to correctly apply putty on the walls yourself before gluing wallpaper, you need to adhere to certain rules:
- When working on puttying walls under wallpaper, it is necessary to use not one spatula, but two. One should be large and wide, the second small and comfortable. It is best to use a stainless steel spatula.
- By using two spatulas, there is a significant saving in leveling solution, because the remaining mixture from a large spatula during application is picked up by a small one and put into action again.
- The direction of movements of the hand with the spatula should be cross-shaped, i.e. After applying the layer from bottom to top, first smoothly turn it to the left, then go over the same place with a spatula again, only this time turning it to the right. With this cross-puttying, the surface of the walls turns out to be perfectly smooth in the end.
The leveling mixture must be applied with light, but at the same time smooth hand movements, preferably in one go. When applying, the spatula must be held at a slight angle (from 60 to 80 degrees, depending on the thickness of the required layer) so that the leveling mixture is evenly distributed over the wall.
The most common mistakes when plastering walls under wallpaper with your own hands
Here is a list of the mistakes that occur most often when plastering walls under wallpaper:
- After applying the starting layer of putty, most people are too lazy not only to sand it, but to simply go over it with at least a wide spatula to knock off the remnants of the frozen mixture, then when applying the finishing layer it will all appear.
- No priming of the starting layer of putty. Again, mostly due to laziness. Everyone thinks it will work that way.
- There is no need to start puttying the walls from the corner. As a rule, the corners are the most crooked places on your walls. You need to step back a little from them and start putting putty on a flat wall surface. The corners must be drawn at the very end.
- Dirty container for mixing the solution. Any excess that is in an unclean container after mixing the solution will drag along the wall during application and leave marks behind it.
- Also, various particles of debris can get into the solution when mixing from a poorly cleaned mixer - a hammer drill attachment or a drill for stirring the mixture.
- Very liquid solution. This mixture will simply flow down the wall. A consistency similar to thick sour cream is considered ideal.
- Damaged or bent spatula. If a wide spatula has obvious damage, then you should not use it. You will not be able to achieve a perfectly flat surface with such a spatula.
Step-by-step and clear instructions for self-plastering walls under wallpaper
To properly perform the work of puttingtying walls under wallpaper yourself, you must follow the step-by-step instructions:
- Preparing the wall surface. At this stage it is necessary to remove all excess from the walls - old paint, wallpaper, any irregularities.
- After the procedure for removing all unnecessary items, it is necessary to prime the walls with a deep penetration primer.
- Next comes the application of the starting layer of putty. The maximum thickness of the applied mortar when starting to putty the walls should not exceed 1.5 cm. The applied mortar can consist of many layers, but in total it should not go beyond the thickness indicated above.
- If another layer of putty is required to completely level the walls, then it is best to reinforce it with reinforcing mesh or paint mesh. The previous layer of putty is primed, after drying, a little mixture is applied to it, onto which the painting mesh is attached. Next, the necessary leveling layer of putty is applied on top of it.
- Finishing corners, both external and internal. These angles can be adjusted with putty using a special coal spatula or an ordinary wide one.
- Next comes the finishing putty of the walls. Before starting, the previous layers must be primed and cleaned again. The finishing putty is applied in exactly the same way as the starting putty, only in a smaller layer - up to 2mm.
As a result, the resulting putty surface is carefully sanded and sanded with light circular movements.
How to properly putty concrete walls under wallpaper with your own hands?
To perform correctly putty work for wallpapering with your own hands on concrete surface walls, you must adhere to the following sequence of actions:
- Surface primer. Using a wide roller, a deep penetration primer is carefully applied to the surface of the concrete walls. After the soil has completely dried, you can safely proceed to the next step.
- Next, pour the dry leveling mixture for wall putty into a clean container, take a hammer drill with a special mixer attachment, and thoroughly mix the mixture until the solution reaches a consistency similar to thick sour cream.
- Using a small spatula, check the quality of the resulting mixture; if there are small lumps or compactions, continue mixing with a construction mixer until it is completely ready.
- After thorough mixing, remove a small amount of solution from the container with a small spatula and distribute it evenly along the entire length of the wide spatula.
- We apply a wide spatula with a leveling mixture to the surface of the concrete wall at a slight angle and begin to smoothly, without much pressure, move the spatula up to the left, then up and to the right - crosswise.
- Using a small spatula, remove the remaining mixture from the large one, carefully arrange it again on the edge of the large spatula, and apply new portions of the solution evenly from the container along the remaining length.
- We continue leveling the concrete walls until they are completely ready.
- After drying, you can begin grouting (sanding) the walls. To do this, we put sandpaper on a sandpaper (a special clamp for sandpaper with a comfortable handle) and grind the surface of the concrete walls in a circular motion to an ideal result.
Puttying brick surfaces with your own hands for wallpapering
There are a number of consistent rules for puttingtying brick walls for wallpapering with your own hands:
- Brick walls that are planned to be puttied must first be thoroughly primed. For this, it is best to use a deep penetration primer.
- After the soil has dried, a starting solution for leveling is prepared. When finished, it should be similar to ordinary sour cream in consistency.
- The prepared putty solution is evenly distributed over the surface of the brick wall in an even layer using a large spatula.
- It is recommended to putty the entire brick wall at once in one sitting, i.e. from the beginning to the end. This results in the most uniform and smooth application of the mixture.
- After the starting layer of putty has dried, a primer must be applied.
- Next, we prepare the finishing solution for leveling the brick walls; its consistency should be slightly thinner than when preparing the starting mixture, because the finishing layer will be much smaller. The finishing putty is applied according to the same principle as the starting putty.
- After the putty surface of the brick walls has completely dried, it must be sanded to a perfectly smooth result.
- Finally, you can check the thoroughness of the surface by applying a rule. If it fits completely, leaving no gaps, then we can consider the job done with a bang.
Correct application of putty on wooden walls under wallpaper with your own hands
To properly apply putty with your own hands on wooden walls Before wallpapering you must follow the following instructions:
- Wooden walls, like any other, must undergo a priming process at the very beginning. The primer will ensure the strongest possible adhesion of the wood surface to the layers of putty. In addition, the soil protects the tree from the processes of rotting, aging and fungus formation.
- After the primer layer has completely dried, the base (starting) putty is applied in a layer of up to 3 mm.
- The dried starting layer is sanded with coarse sandpaper in a circular motion without strong pressure (it is best to use a manual sandpaper - an emery clamp).
- Next, a deep penetration primer is applied on top of the sanded base layer of putty with a large roller, and in the corners of the room with a paint brush.
- Next, one or two (if necessary) layers of the finishing solution, each no more than 2 mm thick, are applied to the dried base primed layer.
- At the end of all the manipulations done, the finishing layer of putty is rubbed down with sandpaper and finally primed thoroughly.
- After the surface has dried, you can safely begin gluing wallpaper on wooden putty walls.
Professional do-it-yourself drywall putty under wallpaper
putty plasterboard walls It is necessary to apply wallpaper for three reasons:
- One day, wallpaper glued directly onto drywall will become obsolete, either morally or physically. This is where you won’t be able to simply peel them off - a layer of drywall will come off along with the old wallpaper.
- If you have chosen light wallpaper for your interior and pasted it directly onto the drywall, be prepared to see through it all the fasteners of the drywall - the dark heads of self-tapping screws, screws, etc.
- Again, if the wallpaper you have chosen for gluing is not dark, then its shade, when placed directly on plasterboard sheets It will fade and fade a little.
To professionally perform work on puttying walls under plasterboard wallpaper with your own hands, you need to adhere to the following rules:
- Be sure to prime the drywall several times before applying putty, because... it absorbs the soil mixture very well.
- You don’t have to apply the starting solution at all; it’s better to use the finishing mixture right away.
- Next, you need to thoroughly recess all the heads of the screws into the drywall so that they do not interfere with the putty.
- At the joints of plasterboard sheets, to avoid cracking, it is necessary to putty over the painting mesh.
- After completing the finishing putty, the surface is thoroughly rubbed and primed.
After drying, you can safely stick the wallpaper onto putty drywall.
How to make smooth wall corners for wallpaper using putty yourself?
The work required to independently putty the corners of the walls in the room before wallpapering is carried out differently, depending on the type of corner. As you know, there are internal and external angles.
When puttingty internal corners, first you need to align the adjacent surfaces that make up these corners as much as possible. To do this, apply the mixture with a wide spatula, starting from the corner, first on one side, then on the other.
After the mixture has dried in the corners, be sure to sand it first with coarse-grained sandpaper, then gradually using fine-grained sandpaper. You definitely need to use a skinner, because... Without it, work on aligning internal corners will be very difficult.
When you putty the outer corners of a room yourself, it is easiest to use special metal corners, which are freely available at any hardware store.
They have small holes along their entire length into which the mixture gets putty, which ultimately ensures the strength of the corner structure.
They are installed very simply - first, a little mixture is applied to the outer corner along the entire length with a spatula, then it is applied directly to the mixture metal corner, after which it is pressed, and the remaining protruding mixture is leveled with a spatula towards both adjacent walls.
Making your own putty from a dry building mixture
In order to make quality putty, and most importantly on your own, for application to walls for wallpapering, from ready-made dry building mixtures, you must follow the step-by-step instructions:
- Next, you need to pour required amount dry mixture, which is indicated by the solution manufacturer on the packaging. Be sure to read these recommendations before starting work.
- As a rule, it is advisable to make such a quantity of leveling mixture that it can be completely used up in about 35-45 minutes. Then the mixture will simply dry out and lose its properties.
- With help construction mixer thoroughly mix the solution until a homogeneous mass, which should be similar in consistency to homemade sour cream.
- The solution should not contain debris, various specks, lumps, etc.
- Then you need to let the solution sit for about 15 minutes, then go over it again with a construction mixer.
Calculation of the required amount of putty for leveling walls under wallpaper
In order to make correct calculations for the required amount of putty when independently leveling walls for wallpapering, you must have the following data:
- Number of windows and their dimensions
- Room height
- Condition of the wall surface - porous concrete walls may require many layers of putty, while plasterboard walls require a minimum number of layers.
As an example, let’s calculate the amount of putty for a room with the following characteristics:
- Room dimensions – 2x3m
- Number of windows - 1 with dimensions 2x1.5m
- Room height – 2.5m
- Number of doors - 1 size 2x1m
- The condition of the wall surface is an almost flat, non-porous concrete surface.
First of all, we calculate the area of the walls of the room using the formula:
P = 2x(AxB+A1xB)-CxC1-DxD1
Below we will decipher the notations to make it clear what’s what:
P – area of the walls of the room
We multiply this part of the formula (AxB + A1xB) by 2, because the walls in our room are paired, i.e. two in parallel.
A and A1 – width and length of the room
B – room height
C and C1 – width and height of the window opening
D and D1 - height and width of the doorway
We substitute our data into the formula and get the following result:
P = 2x(2x2.5+3x2.5)-2x1.5-2x1 = 12.5m2
Next, we need to calculate how much starting putty will be needed to level the walls in a layer, for example 2mm thick. To do this, you need to pay attention to the packaging of the putty itself. There, the manufacturer clearly indicates the consumption of a mixture 1 mm thick per area of 1 m 2 - on average this is 0.8 kg. Knowing this, we can perform calculations using the formula:
K = РхЭхЗ
The breakdown of the indicators is as follows:
K – amount of putty
P – area of the walls of the room (already calculated above)
E – estimated layer thickness for leveling the walls
Z – mixture consumption indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging
We substitute our data into the formula and get:
K = 12.5x2x0.8 = 20kg
As a rule, putty is sold at construction markets in bags of 25 kg, i.e. in our case, one bag will be enough, even with a small margin of 5 kg.
After this, we will calculate the amount of finishing putty required for the final leveling of the concrete surface, for example with a layer of 1 mm. Again, you need to refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for mixture consumption on the packaging - on average for finishing putty it is 1 kg per 1 m 2 with a 1 mm layer. The finishing putty is slightly denser in structure than the starting putty, which is why the values differ.
We substitute our values into the same formula (K = РхЭхЗ) and get the following results:
K = 12.5x1x1=12.5kg
In this case, it is most likely more profitable to buy not a whole bag of finishing putty, but to take it in bulk with a reserve of 14 kg. This should be quite enough.
If you plan to apply the finishing putty in several layers, then you need to multiply the result obtained using the formula by the desired number of layers.
How to calculate the amount of primer needed when plastering walls under wallpaper?
When working on puttying walls for wallpapering in the future, you cannot do without primer compounds, which are sold in plastic and other containers of various sizes.
They come ready-made and do not require any manipulation for preparation. Simply, before use, shake the container with primer thoroughly and use it safely.
Most people, when they putty walls under wallpaper on their own, have a question: how much primer should you buy so that you are sure to have enough and not have too much left over?
All this can be approximately calculated independently. For calculations we need the following data:
- Room dimensions - length and width
- Number of windows and their dimensions
- Room height
- Number of doors and their sizes
For example, let’s calculate the required amount of primer in 2 layers for the same room for which we calculated the amount of required starting and finishing putty above.
The formula for calculating the required amount of primer is as follows:
G = РхЛхМ
The decoding of the designations is as follows:
G – required amount of primer
P – area of the walls of the room
L – primer consumption indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer
M – number of proposed primer layers
G = 12.5x0.2x2 = 5l
As a result, it turns out that 5 liters of primer will be quite enough for our room, for quality training to putty.
What is the best primer to use when plastering walls under wallpaper?
In order to choose the best primer for self-puttying walls under wallpaper, you need to understand what it generally is and how it differs from each other. That is why we will briefly go over the types, characteristics and properties of various primers:
- Primer with color pigments (pigmented). Working with such a primer is a pleasure. You can immediately see which areas are poorly primed and which are sufficiently primed.
- Primer with mineral additives (mineral). It contains multiple mineral chemicals that are beneficial for your walls. It protects very well against fungal infections.
- Primer with an antiseptic effect (antiseptic primer). Great for areas with high humidity, such as bathrooms, kitchens, etc. It does a very good job of preventing mold and mildew.
- Acrylic primer. This is the most common type of primer used for all types of premises. Simply put, it is universal.
Having understood a little about the types of solutions for priming walls for wallpapering, we can conclude that the best and most universal primer specifically for use under wallpaper is an acrylic primer. If you choose her, you definitely won’t go wrong.
Are putty walls harmful to health?
Modern types of putty for leveling walls under wallpaper, like most building mixtures, consist of a number of chemical elements, with the help of which the necessary viscosity, good adhesion, elasticity and elasticity are formed.
Many people are interested in the question of whether particles and vapors of these same chemicals will harm the respiratory and other organs, as well as the skin. auxiliary elements, included in dry construction mixtures for wall putty, if you inhale and touch them during the putty process itself and during the drying period of the walls?
If the manufacturer of the mixtures is a large and serious manufacturer that respects itself and other people, then its products are certainly subject to the necessary quality certification and do not pose any harm to the health of the people using it.
Moreover, certified putty is not only harmless to people, but it also does not harm the environment.
Therefore, it is best to purchase building mixtures for wall putty in large retail outlets, and always check for the necessary quality certificates. Certified putty and walls plastered with it will definitely not cause harm to your health and the health of your loved ones.
Video tutorial: do-it-yourself putty on walls under wallpaper
In conclusion of this article, I would like to state that priming and puttying walls under wallpaper with your own hands is a completely feasible task. It is better not to neglect these procedures. Of course, you can apply wallpaper without putty or primer, but how long it will last in this case is unknown. Therefore, do everything wisely and according to the instructions. Great luck!
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Updated: 09/06/2019
Creating a flat, durable floor - important stage carrying out repair work. To eliminate unevenness on concrete foundations Various building mixtures and compositions are used, including putties.
The concrete floor itself has high strength, but if there are minor defects (chips, cracks and crevices) and poorly puttied slab joints, it can be subject to destruction, which will entail repairs and significant financial costs, especially when it comes to public buildings.
Additional strengthening of the concrete base will also be required in cases where cheap materials were used in construction. Treated floors have a number of advantages:
- high wear resistance;
- resistance to erosion;
- resistance to abrasion and mechanical damage, exposure to chemicals and moisture (including leaks);
- longer operating period.
Putty mixtures thoroughly and reliably level the floor, ensuring easier further installation of building and decorative materials.
Putty mixtures for concrete
Putty materials can be basic and finishing. But there are also intermediate universal options suitable for all operations; they are much more economical and have low consumption.
Based on their component composition, mixtures of the following types are distinguished:
- cement;
- gypsum;
- calcareous;
- oil;
- adhesive;
- varnish;
- polymer or acrylic.
Basic putty PROMOTERS 5 kg
Often, manufacturers additionally enrich the putty with polyester or polyurethane additives. Such materials have minimal shrinkage and high waterproofing properties.
According to the form of release, the mixtures are:
- dry, diluted with water in the specified proportions;
- paste - ready-to-use compositions.
Depending on the application method, the putty can have a liquid or thick consistency. The first type is typical for self-leveling compounds used for treating concrete floors. Such mixtures, under their own weight, are effortlessly distributed evenly over the entire surface, characterizing the continuous puttying technique.
Gypsum mixtures
Gypsum-based putty mixtures are the least popular option for leveling the surface of concrete floors. The advantages of this material include:
- no shrinkage;
- low cost.
The gypsum composition creates a perfectly flat surface from the first layer, dries quickly and can be colored with any color (as a more budget option you can use artistic gouache), however, it has one significant drawback - the material is not suitable for rooms with high humidity.
Cement putties
Cement-based putty mixtures successfully combine reasonable prices and stable high quality coatings and moisture-resistant properties. But the material also has a number of disadvantages, including:
- noticeable shrinkage after complete drying;
- the difficulty of leveling the mixture on the surface and the need for certain skills in working with cement compositions.
Special component mixtures make the finished coating resistant to temperature changes and allow the use of such putties in rooms with extremely low and high humidity, since strength and durability are maintained throughout the entire service life.
Acrylic mixtures
One of the most convenient forms - it hardens quickly and creates a smooth surface. The multi-component system is not subject to shrinkage and is not afraid of water.
In addition to water, the polymer putty for concrete floors includes sand, marble chips, cement, synthetic additives. This putty is plastic, has good waterproofing properties and adhesion to the surface being treated, is waterproof, and elastic, which makes it an excellent material for preparing surfaces for self-leveling and heated floors. But its use is advisable on surfaces with a small number of deep cracks and gouges.
Epoxy mixtures for concrete floors
If it is necessary to level and strengthen a concrete base with a damaged structure (large cracks, embroidered seams and traces of reinforcement removal), the most effective would be the use of epoxy putty mixtures, which tighten the concrete and increase its strength and durability.
The advantages of such two-component systems, consisting of a base and a hardener, are:
- high-quality filling of cracks, crevices, joints;
- elimination of voids formed in places where pipes, communications, etc. were replaced;
- strengthening difficult areas and tightening structural damage;
- the ability to create a durable and wear-resistant continuous coating that does not require further processing;
- high adhesive properties;
- minimum percentage of detachment of the dried putty layer from the base;
- resistance to moisture, chemicals, as well as microbes, mold and mildew.
Epoxy mixture is a finishing material ideal for smoothing out all the depressions and unevenness of the floor covering.
Waterproofing putty mixture
A special feature of the mixture with increased moisture-resistant properties is the possibility of using it as an independent coating, which will be beneficial with a limited budget for repair work. The composition of the putty includes urethane components, a dry base mixture, a hardener, targeted additives and dispersion emulsions.
Most often, waterproofing putty is used when carrying out repair work in bathrooms, steam rooms and showers.
The main advantage of the material is that there is no need to wait for the base to completely dry and the ability to work on a wet layer.
Criteria for choosing putty
It is very important to choose the right building mixture, taking into account the properties of the surface being treated and the purpose of the room. It is important to pay attention to the following properties of the putty mixture:
- adhesion indicator - there are special solutions for smooth surfaces;
- type of base (concrete, aerated concrete);
- moisture resistance, since the putty layer must reliably protect the concrete base from moisture;
- vapor permeability (the ability of a material to remove excess moisture).
| Type of putty | Purpose | pros | Minuses |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cement | For rooms with high humidity and outdoor use | Moisture-resistant, cost-effective | Significant shrinkage, possibility of cracks appearing over time |
| Plaster | For rooms with low humidity | Forms a smooth surface, does not shrink, hardens in 2-3 hours, maximum layer 4 mm | Not moisture resistant, the solution thickens in 1.5-2 hours |
| Polymer | For residential premises and rooms with normal humidity | Lightweight and easy to use, hardens quickly. The coating is smooth and glossy. Ideal for finishing coats | Expensive |
Important! Pastes and mixtures for concrete bases are not suitable for aerated concrete and vice versa. Because they contain various component additives suitable for a specific structure. When choosing a mixture, you need to remember that how evenly and smoothly it will lie will depend on its quality. Decoration Materials(parquet, laminate, linoleum or ceramic tiles).
Step 1. Preparing the work surface
The room in which the work will be carried out must be prepared in advance. Old flooring It is advisable to remove deep cracks and crevices using a drill and clean with a construction vacuum cleaner.
Then seal it cement mortar(cement: sand: water: bitumen = 1: 3: 1: 0.5) and wait until the surface is completely dry. Instead of bitumen, you can use PVA glue.
It is very important to remove all stains from the floor:
- dirt;
- rust;
- fungus;
- mold.
Usually they are easily washed off with warm soapy water, but if necessary, you can use specialized products.
Step 2. Prime the surface
Before priming, the floor should be cleared of debris or swept again. The primer must be selected based on the characteristics of the room, its humidity and purpose.
To apply the composition you will need the following materials:
- roller or brush;
- special pallet.
The primer is applied in two layers, each of which is thoroughly dried. High-quality composition seals pores and small cracks, making the next step easier.
Important! If the base is smooth, then it is preferable to use a primer with a quartz filler - it will ensure stronger adhesion of the putty to the concrete due to the rough surface obtained after priming.
Step 3. Preparing the solution
The putty can be purchased ready-made, or you can mix the composition yourself. To do this, you will need a drill with an attachment or a construction mixer, a suitable container and dry mixtures. It is very important to follow the dilution proportions indicated on the packaging.
There is no fundamental difference between the coating obtained from thick and liquid plaster, but there is a difference in applying the composition to the working surface.
Experts advise adding 10-15% more water than the manufacturer recommends. Optimal ratio dry mixture and water 1:5, minimum – 1:3.
Sometimes you can add sifted chalk, crushed sawdust, and PVA glue to the building mixture yourself.
The sawdust must first be soaked for 12-14 hours, and the entire mixture must be stirred twice with a mixer. To putty bathrooms, drying oil is added to the composition - this will make the final coating even more resistant to temperature changes.
Keep in mind that the solution thickens after 3-4 hours and becomes unusable, losing up to 20-25% of its properties, so you shouldn’t do much construction mixture straightaway.
Step 4. Applying material to the surface
The puttying process is quite long and painstaking. The tools you will need are the following:
- spatulas of various lengths;
- Master OK.
For convenience, you can purchase a rubber spatula or a tool with comfortable handles, be sure to take care of the products personal protection and gloves. The putty is applied in 2-3 layers, each no more than 4-5 mm thick. You should not try to eliminate all unevenness with putty - this process is carried out during the execution of the floor screed.
- Place small portions of the mixture on the floor or pour out part of the mixture, then quickly spread everything over the surface with a spatula. Try not to make the first layer too thick - there is a risk that the coating may crack.
- If the treatment area is large, you can use a reinforcing mesh with small cells - this will at least double the strength of the coating. It should be lightly pressed into the first layer of putty immediately after its application, without waiting for it to dry.
- After the first layer has hardened (after about 12-16 hours), re-apply the freshly prepared mixture.
The putty will dry completely after 24 hours. If there were deep cracks, the process may take 2-3 days. It is important to dry without drafts or sudden temperature changes.
Step 5. Elimination of irregularities
After final drying, large irregularities and protruding lumps of unmixed material should be treated with coarse sandpaper P120-150.
With sufficient skills, puttying can be done independently, without resorting to the services of specialists. Concrete floors are quite easy to level, and if all recommendations are followed, the coating will be of high quality and without defects.
Video - Putty for concrete floors
Wondering why you need decorative putty walls and ceilings, you should delve into the process itself in detail. It doesn’t matter whether you do the work yourself or invite specialists - knowledge about the technology and our advice will help you get the highest quality finish.
Types of putty - from simple to complex
Depending on the condition of the surface, it is possible to apply one layer of putty or combine several. For example, for flat wall with defects within 1–2 mm, a layer of finishing putty will be sufficient, but a problematic surface with more serious defects will first have to be treated with a starting compound. But more about everything.
- Starting puttying of the base - this stage of work is carried out with a special starting material to eliminate large differences in surfaces, hide grooves, holes, etc. This rough processing walls, after which you can get a smooth but porous surface. The layer thickness can be quite large - up to 1.5 cm. The material can be applied in several layers, but with pauses for drying. In order to prepare the base as efficiently as possible, the entire surface of the wall is treated, and a reinforcing mesh is used. The putty adheres much better to a base “lined” with mesh, and in addition, you will avoid the appearance of cracks in the future.
- Puttying the base using beacons - this stage of work is similar to the starting putty, however, the entire process is carried out with the participation of special beacons, which are wooden, gypsum or metal strip. Beacons are installed in a vertical plane under the level, and in a horizontal plane they are lined up in one line. With the help of such devices, the process of leveling walls is much easier and faster. However, puttying on beacons is not used so often, since this process is more expensive, and the quality of the surfaces is practically no different, of course, if the work is performed by professionals.
- Final puttying of the base - at this stage, putties are used that differ from the starting ones in a finer grain fraction. The composition is applied over the starting putty after it has dried and additional processing. After grinding, a smooth, crack-free and pore-free surface is obtained, which appearance resembles an egg shell.
The material is applied in a fairly thin layer (1–2 mm), repeating the previously prepared plane of the starting putty. Only with its help can you obtain a perfectly flat surface, so this stage of work cannot be excluded in order to save money. It is desirable that the base be white, in this case it will not show through the light-colored wallpaper. - Puttying cracks is one of the stages of preparing walls for putty. For this, gypsum mixtures are used, which are applied to the surface to be treated with a simple metal spatula. To make the process more efficient, the cracks are increased in depth and width in order to remove all cavities. Also, cracks should be treated with a primer that has deep penetration properties in order to strengthen the damaged surface and increase its adhesion to the putty. You can use a brush for this.
You can start puttying only after the primer has completely dried. For these purposes, you can use alabaster or plaster - they dry within half an hour. However, these materials are not elastic enough, so they are inconvenient to work with. Can be used modern materials, for example, satengypsum, which takes longer to harden but has excellent elastic qualities.
- Mechanized wall putty – separate species putty, which differs in the process of applying solutions. In this case, special machines are used that high pressure spray plaster mixtures. The work is completed very quickly, but a lot of equipment is required, so it is rational to use mechanized putty only on large areas.
Puttying concrete walls - technology for applying mortar to the base
Before starting puttying, the surface of the wall should be thoroughly treated with a primer. Types of primers may differ depending on the base material and its purpose. One of the most important properties is the depth of penetration into the structure of the material, and the deeper, the better the coating will be.
The process of applying putty to the base is the same regardless of its type. In fact, it is not difficult to putty walls; the most important thing in this case is practice, which can be obtained after processing several square meters. To do this you will need several spatulas. different widths and a flat container from which it will be convenient to collect putty. Don't forget to purchase one that is easy to handle external and internal corners.
First you need to prepare the material if you purchased the putty in dry form. Instructions for preparing the solution are usually found on the packaging itself. It is very important to act in full accordance with it and remember that the dry mixture is poured into the water, and not vice versa. You need to mix using a construction mixer or with a special nozzle. Part of the prepared putty is poured into a container, and the rest of the solution is covered with a lid so that it does not dry out.
A small spatula is needed to apply putty onto a large one; it is also useful for treating hard-to-reach areas of walls. When a large spatula is prepared, the putty is applied to the wall. When leveling, you can lightly press the tool blade with your left hand.
The spatula is held at a certain angle to the surface, which can be adjusted to achieve the desired layer thickness - than larger angle, the smaller the thickness.
After about a day, when the surface has dried, sanding begins again. For it to be of high quality, this process must be performed with good lighting(spotlight on a rod or a powerful hanging lamp), which is directed at the wall at an angle. Sanding belt For convenience, they are put on a special block. After treatment, there should be no defects on the surface (scratches, roughness, sagging, etc.). Ideally, the wall will resemble White list paper.
When is puttying with reinforcing mesh used?
As a rule, putty with a reinforcing mesh is required in cases where there are too large differences in the surface of the walls. The use of serpyanka makes the surface more durable and reliable, and it is also an excellent barrier to the formation of new cracks on painted surfaces (they may simply not be visible under the wallpaper). Cracks can even form on concrete foundations, for example, at the joints of slabs panel houses, which will certainly reveal themselves over time.
