We build a gazebo ourselves with our own hands. How to build a gazebo with your own hands: let's look at how to build a beautiful gazebo step by step, choosing the appropriate option. Video: master class on quickly building a gazebo

"in the presented master class from the author, another technology for building a garden gazebo with your own hands will be presented to your attention. Today it has become very fashionable to have beautiful gazebo, in which you can hide from the sun or rain, as well as sit and relax with a barbecue on the weekend. There are a huge number of options for construction, but preference is still given lightweight designs. So our author decided to build a light gazebo with his own hands. How did he do it? See below.

Materials
1. beam
2. board 30 and 40 mm
3. sewer pipe 125 mm
4. cement
5. sand
6. fine gravel
7. roofing felt
8. OSB
9. soft tiles
10. screws
11. nails
12. stain
13. varnish

Tools
1. shovel
2. hacksaw
3. hammer
4. screwdriver
5. drill
6. jigsaw
7. level
8. concrete mixer, or solution container
9. roulette
10. corner

The process of building a garden gazebo with your own hands.
As mentioned above, the gazebo was built by the author of a lightweight structure, assembled from boards and timber. The author made a pretty good foundation in an interesting way, namely, took a sewer pipe large diameter 125 mm cut into meter lengths. Next, small depressions were dug, sand was poured into the bottom and compacted. And already meter-long sections of pipes are installed in the prepared recesses and filled to the top with concrete. This created a kind of columnar foundation. Previously, the author selected a site for construction and marked the site using a tape measure, pegs and thread.

Logs are laid on the pillars and secured anchor bolts. The master also does waterproofing by laying sheets of roofing felt on the ground.

Then the assembly of the timber frame begins.

Fine gravel is poured onto the laid out roofing material and leveled.

The rafter system is being manufactured.

The entire structure is covered with stain and then varnish, so the wood will take on an even more noble appearance and will last much longer.

The roof is first covered with OSB sheets, this is necessary in order to then lay soft tiles on a flat surface.



A flat area or a small hill is suitable to protect the foundation from precipitation. It is advisable that this place opens good view to the surrounding area.

Otherwise, it all depends on your preferences. The gazebo can be either next to the house or in the depths of the garden closer to its border. In the first case, it is convenient to use it as a dining room, in the second - as a place of solitude for quiet rest or reading.

If there is a lot of sun on the site, it is better to place the gazebo in the shade of trees. If the summer is short and not warm, choose an open lawn.

Decide on the sizes




First of all, it depends on the number of people who will regularly gather for recreation. It is also important to consider whether the building will include, in addition to a table with chairs, a barbecue and other equipment.

Gazebos are conventionally divided into three types:

  • Small ones (up to 10 m²), designed for 4–6 people, do not include a kitchen area and are more suitable for a family. Optimal size- 3 × 3 m. A more modest option - 2 × 2 m.
  • Medium (10–20 m²) - can easily accommodate 10–15 people, that is, the owners and one or two more families of guests. The area allows you to highlight a recreation area and a kitchen. The optimal size is 4 × 4 m or 3 × 5 m.
  • Large (over 20 m²) - for noisy companies of 20 or more people. Popular sizes: 5 × 5 m and 6 × 6 m, as well as 5 × 6 m and 5 × 7 m.

The height of the gazebo should be at least 2–2.2 m from the floor to the roof overhang. For large buildings it is worth increasing this parameter, otherwise the appearance will be disproportionate.

Select form



Visual beauty largely depends on the shape of the gazebo. The easiest ones to build are square and rectangular. Round and polygonal ones look much more advantageous, but require more labor and materials.

For small buildings it is better to choose a square shape. The middle ones can be made in any way. But it is preferable to build large gazebos with hexagonal or octagonal ones so that they look more elegant.

Lay the foundation


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Without a solid foundation, only purchased gazebos with a tubular frame and an awning covering can be used. For everyone else, you need at least a light foundation.

Since the weight of such buildings is small, the use of monolithic and strip foundations inappropriate. A columnar foundation is optimal. It is suitable for all types of gazebos, except brick ones.

Proceed like this:

  • Mark the perimeter of the future building. Mark the locations of the corner, intermediate and central pillars. The distance between them should be 1.5–2 m.
  • Dig or drill holes 0.5–0.8 m deep. Place and compact a layer of crushed stone at the bottom of each hole. Then a layer of sand, which is also compacted.
  • Make formwork 20–25 cm high from boards, plywood or sewer pipes to form the above-ground part of the pillars.
  • Pour out the concrete pillars. For strength, place reinforcement inside. If desired, you can install threaded anchors for convenient fastening of the lower harness.

Wrap the base

It is needed to evenly distribute the load and fasten all the pillars into a monolithic structure.


twoidvor.com

As a rule, a 100 × 100 mm beam is used, which is installed on the pillars through a waterproofing layer. For example, pieces of roofing felt. At the junction points, the timber is sawn down halfway and with galvanized (yellow) screws or nails. If there are anchors, the wood is drilled and secured to them using nuts and washers.

To protect wood from rot and insects, treat it with a special compound or old motor oil.

At small sizes It is enough to tie the gazebo only around the perimeter. If the length of the building is more than 2 meters, one or more beams are additionally installed in the center.

Make the floor


peredelka.tv

There are several options. The simplest is plank flooring, it is great for wooden buildings and is used most often. You can also make a regular one concrete screed or lay down paving slabs. These floors are good for pavilions and canopies with metal frame and capital brick gazebos.

Plank floor

It is convenient to do it immediately after tying, and only then assemble the frame on the boardwalk. To do this, install the logs at a level with the strapping beams in increments of 50–70 cm and lay the board on top, securing it with nails.

Concrete screed

The floor can be poured both at the start and at the end of construction. Remove fertile layer soil and place formwork from boards around the perimeter. Sprinkle the area with a 10–15 cm layer of sand and compact it well. Then lay out 10 cm of crushed stone in a second layer and compact it too. Prepare cement mortar and fill the screed. For strength, you can lay reinforcement mesh inside.

Paving slabs

It can be installed immediately or after completion of work. For installation, first remove the layer of soil. Next, prepare sand cushion and tamp it down thoroughly. Then install borders around the perimeter and lay tiles from the corner.

Assemble the frame


stroy-podskazka.ru

Depending on the chosen design, the frame posts can be made from wooden beam 100 × 100 mm - 150 × 150 mm or metal profile. The timber is fastened with screws and additionally secured with a fastening angle. The metal is connected by welding or bolts.

YouTube channel “Anatoly Antonchik”

Regardless of the material, the frame is installed at the corners of the building and on the sides doorway. For long spans between the main posts, intermediate ones are added. After leveling, the frame is temporarily fixed with jibs made of wooden slats.

At a height of about 1 m, horizontal beams 100 × 100 mm or metal pipes. They will connect the frame and serve as railings. They need to be strengthened diagonal jibs to give rigidity to the structure.

Complete the top trim


mybesedka.ru

It is done in exactly the same way as the bottom one. The strapping connects the frame posts and serves as the base for the roof.

If desired, the upper contour can even be made together with the lower one, and then raised and secured at the right time.

Select roof type and material


metasold.com

The configuration of the roof depends on the shape of the structure itself.

  • Single-pitched - the easiest to manufacture and in appearance, convenient for square and rectangular gazebos.
  • Gable - suitable for rectangular buildings.
  • Four-slope tent and hip and multi-slope are the most complex and beautiful, suitable for square and polygonal gazebos.

For the roof, use any materials based on your budget and personal preferences. Ondulin, bitumen shingles and polycarbonate is simpler and more convenient to use for beginners. Corrugated sheets and metal tiles will cause more trouble, especially on a roof of complex shape.

If there are already other buildings on the site, then the roof should be in harmony with them. However, this is only true for cases when the gazebo is located next to the house. If it is located separately or in the depths of the garden, the roof can be of any kind.

Assemble the rafter system

For decreasing snow load The angle of the roof slope must be at least 30 degrees. The rafters are assembled into trusses on the ground and lifted up or installed directly on the top frame.


Four-slope rafter system hip roof. Corner and intermediate rafters converge at one point - the ridge node / krovlyamoya.ru

Depending on the type of roof, a sheathing (for metal tiles, corrugated sheets) or a solid base (for flexible tiles) is placed on top of the rafters.

Install the roof


tskkrovclub.ru

The technology for installing roofing material differs in each case, but in general it is performed in the following order.

First, the covering is installed, and then additional elements: ridge and end strips. Installed last drainage system, if it is provided for by the project.

Sew up the walls

The final stage of construction is finishing the walls. As a rule, only the lower part is sheathed to the level of the railing, and everything above is left open. There are plenty of options here to suit every taste and budget:

  • Lining, block house, OSB boards - wood looks good and additionally holds the structure together.
  • Polycarbonate - protects from wind, but allows light to pass through. Easy to install.
  • The corrugated sheet is a solid wall, provides shade and protects from the wind.
  • Decorative grille - suitable for both the lower and upper parts of the walls.
  • Climbing plants - dense hedge It will protect from the sun and rain no worse than solid walls, and at the same time it looks nicer.
  • Leave it as is - the design will be well ventilated and look very elegant.

1. The simplest gazebo

The structure is based on pentagonal trusses, which are interconnected and serve simultaneously as a base, walls and roof. Benches are also attached to them.

2. Gazebo with a pitched roof

A fairly simple configuration that can be easily replicated in any size. Although it looks unprepossessing, it does its job perfectly.

3. Small hexagonal gazebo

A beautiful building with a lower part made of a block house, decorative latticework and a metal tile roof.

4. Square gazebo with a soft roof

A simple design with a hipped roof. The pillars are treated with dark varnish, and the lower part is treated with light block house.

5. Rectangular gazebo

The frame is made of wooden beams. The walls up to the railings are covered with clapboard, the roof and gables are covered with polycarbonate.

6. Light metal gazebo

The appeal of this gazebo is its hexagonal shape and simple design. The roof and lower part are made of polycarbonate.

7. Gazebo made of profile pipe

The frame is made of square pipe, and the lower part and roof are made of corrugated sheets. The creator placed a brick one nearby.

8. Dome gazebo

Openwork gazebo made of bent profile pipe with table and benches. The walls and roof are covered with polycarbonate.

9. Large gazebo for 20 people

A solid structure made of massive timber under hipped roof from bitumen shingles.

10. Living gazebo

A unique option that is literally grown. Flexible trees form green walls and a dome, which protect from the sun even better than a traditional roof.

The simplest wooden gazebo, photo report of the construction.

A gazebo at the dacha is an ideal place to relax, every summer resident can build it, no special construction skills are required here, just look step by step photos construction of a gazebo.

This time we'll do a simple gazebo made of timber and boards with a gable roof with a slate ceiling.

We build a gazebo with our own hands photo.

STEP. 1. We make a columnar foundation; it is enough to pour 6 supporting concrete supports. The structure of a columnar foundation is described in detail in this article. Supporting concrete pillars need to cover waterproofing material, for example, pieces of roofing felt, otherwise the wood will draw moisture from the concrete.

STEP. 2. We make the strapping from timber; the timber is secured at the corners with tenon joints and self-tapping screws.


STEP. 3. We install supports and make the top trim from timber. The supports are attached to the harnesses metal corners and also with self-tapping screws. We cover the lower trim with used motor oil, which will serve as an excellent antiseptic and protect the wood from rotting and insects.


STEP. 4. We fasten the rafters for gable roof. The angle of inclination of the roof slopes must be at least 30 degrees.


STEP. 5. We fill the rafters with a sheathing of boards and lay the covering material. In this case, slate was used, but it is better to work with corrugated sheets; it is much lighter and easier to install.

Slate laying scheme, first the bottom row of slate is laid, then the top row with an overlap, the laying direction is towards the most windy side.



We lay a wooden floor and fasten it side walls gazebos and roof gables.



Last summer I decided to do some landscaping country cottage area. Slightly reduced the plots for vegetable beds, but allocated additional meters for a recreation area. The freed up space was enough for small flower garden, a couple of bushes, an inflatable pool. But for good rest this was not enough. We need a gazebo. I decided to start building it during my vacation.

Initially, I planned to do something very simple, like a canopy on four pillars. But then, after consulting with familiar builders, I realized that it was quite possible to build more complex design. Also on pillars, but with walls and a full roof.

I had to sit down with the drawings and sketch out the project. On paper it turned out as follows: a wooden gazebo 3x4 m, on columnar foundation With gable roof covered with slate. The project was approved by family council, after which I rolled up my sleeves and got to work. I performed all stages of the work alone, although, I must admit, at some points an assistant would have been helpful. Bring, serve, cut, hold... It would be easier to work with two people. But, nevertheless, I managed it on my own.

I will try to describe the stages of construction in detail, since the little things in this matter turned out to be very important.

According to the plan, the gazebo should be light in weight, built from boards and timber, so the most optimal foundation for it is a columnar one. This is where I started my construction.

For this purpose, I set aside a suitable area near the fence with the dimensions of a gazebo measuring 3x4 m. I placed pegs (4 pieces) in the corners - this is where the foundation pillars will be located.

I took a shovel and in a couple of hours dug 4 square holes 70 cm deep. The soil on my site is sandy and does not freeze much, so this is quite enough.

In the center of each recess I placed reinforcing rod, with a diameter of 12 mm, a length of 1 m. These will be the corners of the gazebo, so they need to be installed clearly in level. I had to measure the diagonals, the length of the perimeter and the vertical reinforcement.

After dismantling the old buildings on the site, I was left with a bunch broken bricks. I poured it into the bottom of the recesses and filled it with liquid concrete on top. Happened concrete base under the posts.

A cushion of broken bricks under a concrete base will help to distribute pressure evenly between the foundation and the ground

After two days, the concrete hardened, and on the resulting foundations I built 4 level brick columns.

4 columns in the corners were ready, but still the distance between them turned out to be too large - 3 m and 4 m. Therefore, between them I installed 5 more of the same columns, only without reinforcement in the center. In total, there were 9 supports for the gazebo.

I plastered each support with mortar and then coated it with mastic. For waterproofing, 2 layers of roofing material were laid on top of each column.

Brick pillars will serve as a reliable foundation for the base of the gazebo

Stage 2. Making the floor of the gazebo

I started with the bottom strap; in fact, it will hold the entire frame. I purchased 100x100 mm timber and cut it to size. To make it possible to join half the tree, I made cuts at the ends of the beams using a saw and chisel. After which, I collected bottom trim, like a designer, stringing timber onto reinforcement in the corners. The holes for the reinforcement were pre-drilled with a drill (I used a wood drill with a diameter of 12 mm).

The bars were laid on the foundation pillars - 4 pcs. along the perimeter of the gazebo and 1 pc. in the center, along the long side. At the end of the process, the wood was treated with fire protection.

The bottom frame, laid on the foundation columns, will serve as a lathing for the plank floor

It's time to recoat the floor. My household has been gathering dust since ancient times. Oak planks just suitable size– 150x40x3000 mm, that’s what I decided to use. Since they were not entirely straight and slightly crooked, I had to run them through a frame. My neighbor happened to have the tool, it was a shame not to use it. After the leveling process, the boards turned out to be quite decent. Although there were as many as 5 bags of shavings!

I nailed the boards to the strapping bars. The result was a smooth oak plank floor.

Stage 3. Construction of walls

From the existing timber 100x100 mm, I cut 4 racks of 2 m each. They will be installed in the corners of the gazebo. I drilled holes at the ends of the posts and put them on the reinforcement bars. They didn’t really hold the vertical and tried to move at the most inopportune moment. Therefore, I fixed them with jibs, specially cut for this purpose in a miter box. The jibs were nailed to the floor boards and racks. Only after this the racks no longer leaned to the side and swayed from the wind.

When corner posts were installed, I secured 6 more intermediate posts. I also fixed them with jibs.

The turn of the horizontal railings came. They will form the walls of the gazebo, without which the entire structure will look like an ordinary canopy. I cut the railings from 100x100mm timber, and for the back wall I decided to save a little and took a 100x70mm board. This lightweight option is suitable exclusively for sheathing.

To install the railings, I cut into the posts, installed horizontal rails in them, and hammered nails. Since it is assumed that people will lean on the railing, such a connection cannot be left. Additional fastening parts are needed for rigidity. For this purpose, I used additional jibs, which I tacked from the bottom of the railing. I didn’t install the jibs on the back wall; I decided to fasten the railings there with corners from below.

After everything was done, I started appearance wooden elements gazebos. To begin with, I sanded the entire wood using a grinder. I didn't have any other tool. So I took the grinder and put it on her grinding wheel and got down to business. By the time I cleared everything out, a whole day had passed. I worked in a respirator and goggles, because a lot of dust was generated. At first she soared into the air, and then settled where she pleased. The entire structure was covered with it. I had to take a rag and a brush and clean all the dusty surfaces.

When there was no trace of dust left, I coated the wood with varnish in 2 layers. For this I used Rolax varnish stain, chestnut color. The structure shone and acquired a noble hue.

Stage 4. Roof truss structure

The time has come to lay the foundation of the future roof, in other words - to expose rafter system. The roof is a regular gable roof, consisting of 4 triangular trusses. The height from the ridge to the harness is 1 m. After calculations, it turned out that exactly this height looks proportional on the gazebo.

100x50 mm boards were used for the rafters. I made each truss from two rafter boards connected by a tie. On top, on both sides, there are OSB linings, nailed around the perimeter. According to plan rafter legs They rest on the top frame, so I made insets at their ends - the size is suitable for the frame beam. I had to tinker a little with the inserts, but that’s okay, I managed to do that in 2 hours.

Rafter trusses assembled from boards and fastened on top with OSB overlays

I installed trusses every meter. At first I set it up, maintaining the verticals, then I fixed it with self-tapping screws. It turned out that dealing with the rafters yourself is not so easy. Here I regretted that I did not take anyone as an assistant. After suffering for an hour, I finally put them up, but I advise everyone who follows in my footsteps to still ask someone for help at this stage. Otherwise, you can end up with a skew, then you will definitely have to redo everything, which obviously will not add enthusiasm to your work.

Since the roof of the gazebo will not be subjected to increased loads, I decided not to install a ridge beam, but to fasten the rafters together with a lathing made of 50x20 mm boards. There were 5 boards for both slopes. Moreover, I filled 2 of them on both sides of the ridge at a distance of 2 cm from the tops of the trusses. In total, the sheathing for each slope was made up of 2 outer boards (one “holds” the ridge, the second forms the offset of the slope) and 3 intermediate ones. The structure turned out to be quite strong, it will no longer be possible to loosen it.

Lathing binds roof trusses and will serve as the basis for fastening the slate

In the next step, I exposed the roof trusses and the floor with two coats of stain varnish.

Stage 5. Wall and roof cladding

Next, I started covering the sides with pine clapboard. First, I filled 20x20 mm bars under the railings along the perimeter, and then nailed the clapboard to them with small nails. I covered the back wall completely, but the side and front walls only from the bottom, up to the railing. At the end of the process, I painted the lining with varnish-stain.

Only the roof remained unfinished. I covered it with painted slate with 5 waves, the color is “chocolate”. 9 sheets of slate were used for the entire roof, and there was also a ridge element on top Brown(4 m).

Covering the walls with pine clapboard will protect inner space gazebos from wind and sun

Colored slate looks no worse than modern ones roofing materials, and in terms of durability it far surpasses them

A little later I plan to make removable windows in the openings to protect the space of the gazebo in winter period. I’ll knock together frames, insert some lightweight material into them (polycarbonate or polyethylene - I haven’t decided yet), and then they will install them in the openings and remove them as needed. Perhaps I'll do something similar with the doors.

For now, perhaps, that's all. I think that this option will appeal to those who want to build a gazebo quickly, simply and inexpensively.

About the summer gazebo - cozy corner every summer resident dreams of for relaxation and feasting.

However, not every owner suburban area has the financial capacity to make this building luxurious and capital.

A roof over your head and protection from the wind are the two main tasks that an inexpensive gazebo for a summer house should perform. How to build this structure with minimal costs Money and personal time we will discuss in this article.

What materials can be used?

How simpler design, how cheaper material and the less its consumption, the construction is more profitable. Following this golden rule, we will consider options for making a foundation, frame and roof for an inexpensive summer summerhouse.

Wood for all construction purposes

The most affordable and easy-to-work material is wood. In a few days you can assemble the base, frame and roof of the gazebo from it. In passing, we note that the support frame is made of timber, under which a columnar foundation is required, for budget gazebo not required.

A light canopy can be built without it by burying oak or larch posts 40-60 centimeters into the ground. To increase the resistance of wood to rotting, the ends of the pillars are treated with bioprotection or simply burned over a fire for 5 minutes. After such heat treatment, the service life of the racks increases significantly.

Anyone who objects to this option should remember the history of wooden architecture in Rus'. In those days, not only were they built on wooden columnar foundations simple log cabins, but also boyars' mansions.

A cheap gazebo can do without a plank floor. To do this, the area allocated for construction must be filled with fine gravel mixed with sand and compacted well. If you want to place a gazebo on the lawn, then there is no need to remove the grass cover. Soft grass underfoot - no artificial surface can replace it. sunlight for normal growth of plants under such a canopy is enough, and rare watering of the “living floor” will not bother you.

An inexpensive wooden gazebo can be made not only from lumber. If you are going to cut off a couple of old fruit trees, do not rush to use them for firewood. Parts of the trunk of an apple or pear tree, cherry plum or cherry tree are excellent stands for a summerhouse.

A picturesque frame made of trunks will look great under a roof made of wooden planks. To ensure tightness, thinner boards need to be placed on the seams between them, and then cover the entire roofing decking leave-in antiseptic. Stumps uprooted after cutting trees can be used as foundation columns.



A good owner has no waste. Therefore, all commercial wood (boards and trimmings of logs) remaining from the construction of a log house can be successfully used to build a summerhouse.

Metal is expensive, we only use it for racks

Anyone who is used to doing everything thoroughly can refuse wooden posts for the frame and buy four square steel pipes(50x50 mm, wall 3 mm) suitable length. Even without pouring a concrete columnar foundation, they will remain in the ground for at least 20 years. To save money, the roof trim, rafters and lower stiffener in this case can be made from wooden blocks, attaching them to the pipes using self-tapping screws.

A more expensive capital option is drilling wells for installing scraps of asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, pouring it with concrete and installing it wooden frame We don't rule it out. It can be used if you want to make a plank floor in the gazebo, raising it from the ground surface by 15-20 cm.

A prefabricated metal gazebo is ideal for installation on a grassy lawn. If you are satisfied with the price, then feel free to buy such a structure and place it on your site.

Two pipes and a piece of fabric - the gazebo is ready!

Continuing the “pipe” theme, let’s give another example of an inexpensive gazebo. Two bent pipes and a piece of durable fabric is all that is required to make an original summer canopy.

The fabric canopy here replaces both the roof and the walls. It can be moved in any direction, adjusting the level of illumination in the gazebo and covering it from wind and rain. Stationary table and benches are not needed here. Here's a portable kit country furniture it will come in handy.

When considering materials suitable for constructing an inexpensive gazebo, one cannot help but. It can be used to make not only the roof, but also the walls of this structure. By bending a sheet of polycarbonate in the form of an arch and securing it to a light frame, we get a “barrel” gazebo - a popular a budget option for the dacha.

The roof of the gazebo is the head of everything!

An inexpensive roof for a light shed can be made from metal tiles, polycarbonate, boards or asbestos-cement slate. All of the listed materials can be easily and quickly mounted on a metal or wooden frame.

Those who want to build an original shingle or reed roof over a gazebo will first have to carefully study the technology and the nuances of its installation.

At proper installation Wooden and thatched roofs will last 10-15 years without replacement.

Side fencing - lattice or wattle fence?

Having dealt with the foundation, posts and roof of an inexpensive gazebo, you can move on to its side fencing. One of the profitable options here would be cellular polycarbonate.

Except him, garden gazebo may have fencing made of openwork wooden lattice. It is attached to the frame posts and the top roof trim.

If you plant climbing plants (grapes, ivy or hops) next to such a structure, then in a few years the summerhouse will look very picturesque.

Nature will generously fill an inexpensive frame made of wooden blocks with beautiful green “curtains” and will more than reward you for your efforts.

The side fence of the gazebo can be built from straight, not very thick branches, using rustic fence technology. They are woven between steel posts made of thin pipes or ready-made branch “screens” are made and secured to the main frame.

Can't build a cheap gazebo? Grow her!

Despite the strange sound of this call, the most cheap gazebo not built, but grown. You can use willow seedlings for this. This tree is characterized by its high growth rate and flexibility.

Anyone who wants to build a gazebo cheaply and can wait until it grows should plant willow branches (diameter 5-15 mm, length 2-3 meters) along its perimeter in the fall. This is how you take the first step in organic architecture. This fashion direction Today it is actively developing not only in the West, but also in Russia.

Having tied together a kind of spatial frame from living branches, all you have to do is control their growth and periodically trim the willow shoots growing in and out.

3-4 seasons and your dacha will be decorated with a free living structure, and neighbors will start coming for consultations and bringing their friends on excursions.

We will consider the most “expensive” option for building a summerhouse, its main stages and total cost materials.

As already mentioned, the most expensive structure is one that stands on a columnar foundation, has a wooden support frame and a plank floor.

Its construction includes several stages:

  1. Marking points for drilling wells for pipes;
  2. Drilling 4 holes with a diameter of 150 mm and a depth of 60-70 cm using a hand-held hole drill;
  3. Cutting asbestos-cement pipes “weave” into pieces and installing them in pits;
  4. Installation of reinforcing bars with a diameter of 14-16 mm in holes. At one end they need to be threaded to attach the frame;
  5. Concreting columns for the upper cut;
  6. Marking, cutting and installation of support frame beams;
  7. Plank flooring;
  8. Installation of gazebo frame racks;
  9. Installation of timber for the top frame and roof rafters;
  10. Installation roofing(polycarbonate, metal tiles, slate);
  11. Making a side fence from wooden slats.

The approximate estimate for materials for the construction of a budget gazebo measuring 2x2 meters looks like this:

  • Cement M500 – 210 rub. (1 bag);
  • Small crushed stone – 60 rubles. (1 bag);
  • Sand – 200 rub. (3 bags);
  • Reinforcing bars diameter 14 mm, length 0.8 meters, 4 pcs. – 96 rub.
  • Beam (section 10x10 cm) for the support frame, frame racks and roof trim - 1,440 rubles. (0.3 m3 at a price of 4,800 rubles/m3);
  • Edged floor board – 720 RUR. (0.12 m3 at a price of 6,000 rubles/m3);
  • Timber for the roof frame, sheathing and side railing – 672 RUR. (0.14 m3 at a price of 4,800 rubles/m3);
  • Sheet material for roofing (8 wave slate) – 960 rub. (4 sheets for 240 rub./sheet);
  • Self-tapping screws for wood – 380 rub. (2 kg for 190 rub./kg).

Having summed up all the costs, we get 4,738 rubles. This is the approximate amount it will cost you to make a summerhouse.



 
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Minced meat for beef and pork cutlets: recipe with photos
Until recently, I prepared cutlets only from homemade minced meat.  But just the other day I tried to cook them from a piece of beef tenderloin, and to be honest, I really liked them and my whole family liked them.  In order to get cutlets
Schemes for launching spacecraft Orbits of artificial Earth satellites