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How to plaster walls. How to quickly and correctly plaster walls with your own hands: video. List of tools, equipment and supplies

Not every House master decides to plaster the walls because of the apparent complexity of the work. We hasten to reassure you: special skills are required to complete large volumes of work in a short time. Anyone can master the basics of plastering with due care and patience.

Types of plaster coatings

Plaster itself extremely rarely acts as a finishing material for walls. The main purpose of its application is to level the surface as in common plane, and with the elimination of local defects, for example, seams and protrusions of brickwork. Following this principle, there are several types of plaster:

1. Rough wiping (spraying) is used to improve adhesion between the outer finishing and load-bearing layer of the wall. In this way, surfaces are prepared for finishing, fixed with glue or cement mortar. Typical example— preparation for tiling.
2. Soil casting without smoothing is used as a special case of the previous type, when there is a need to level out significant curvatures of the wall plane or straighten the geometry of the room.
3. Finish plaster (covering) forms a perfectly flat surface with a minimum number of pores and defects. This method of rough finishing can be completed with wallpapering or puttying for painting.

In general, all three types plastering works are carried out sequentially in the given order until receiving required characteristics surfaces. There are also differences due to changes in the formulation of the plaster mortar. Depending on the required characteristics of the finished surface, plaster may have increased strength and hardness, hydrophobicity or low thermal conductivity. However, even with special requirements, the application technique does not differ from the basic one, only the composition of the solution changes.

Cement mortar for plaster

The material that is applied to the walls to create a plaster coating is ordinary sand concrete with a strength grade from M50 to M200. Because the plaster layer does not perform a direct load-bearing function; strength requirements are imposed to counteract external mechanical influences and tearing off of the plaster under its own weight.

In the classic version, the mortar for plastering work is prepared from washed river or mountain sand with a grain size of no more than 1.2 mm for grouting and no more than 2.5 mm for spraying and the main leveling layer. The binder for the solution is Portland cement grade 200 or 300, for especially durable plaster - grade 400. The content of the cement binder cannot be less than 70 kg per 1 ton of dry sand, but it is usually added in a ratio of 1:5 - 1:8 to the filler. Of course, the higher the grade of cement, the lower its content in the plaster solution.

The second option for preparing plaster mortar is with partial (from 40%) or complete replacement of the cement binder with hydrated lime or fluff. Lime milk must contain at least 30% lime by weight without unslaked inclusions. The main purpose of using lime is to entrain air to reduce the density of the plaster. Accordingly, the consumption of the binder is reduced, and the plaster itself has a lower density and places less load on the supporting system of the building.

Solutions are prepared at water based, the liquid content is standardized based on considerations of ensuring the required mobility of the mixture and its tendency to separate. Adding water is done after mixing the dry filler and binder, or by introducing completely dissolved cement into dry sand and then bringing the mixture to the desired consistency. The density of the solution for different layers of plaster is different: if the consistency of liquid sour cream is required for wiping the base, then the base layer is applied with a thicker paste, in which marks from pressing with a finger are not filled in for at least 2-3 minutes.

What surfaces can be plastered

Suitable for plastering work wide range bases: masonry made of brick, cinder block or porous blocks, concrete grade not higher than M600, as well as prefabricated wooden structures. IN general case The suitability of the base for plaster is determined by adhesion, which provides a sufficiently high peel load limit.

Before plastering, surfaces made of heavy concrete are ground to increase porosity and primed with deep penetration compounds that do not form a film. Wood paneling sleepers or frame walls Before applying the plaster, it is covered with shingles or steel plaster mesh to improve the quality of adhesion to the base.

The mesh can also be used to fasten the plaster layer itself. In this case, it is filled after the initial wiping before installing the beacons. Basically, mesh reinforcement is required for plaster thicknesses from 25 to 40 mm. An additional argument in favor of strengthening can be the high mobility of the base, for example under unfavorable seismic conditions.

When and why are beacons needed?

Linear plaster beacons are necessary in cases where high demands on flatness are placed on the surface of the plaster. Beacons help to eliminate the formation of irregularities of more than 2 mm/m; in other cases, leveling with a tightening strip is sufficient.

Installation of beacons is carried out on small tubercles of ordinary plaster mortar with a small addition of building gypsum to speed up setting. To install each beacon, mix a small portion of the solution, which is applied to the wall pointwise along a vertical line with an indentation of 50-70 cm. After waiting 2-3 minutes until the solution thickens a little, apply it to the wall metal strip lighthouse and recess it in lumps of mortar until it coincides with the calculated plane of the wall.

Most convenient way alignment - bringing the top of all beacons under a common lacing, aligning them vertically with a slat bubble level, and then adjusting them with the rest of the beacons using a long rule. The distance between the beacons should be such that, given the existing length of the rule, in a horizontal position it rests on at least two adjacent beacons. If, after installing all the beacons, local irregularities are noted, the planks can be easily torn off and then re-glued with a new portion of the solution.

Preparing the base by spraying

The initial spraying is carried out with a cement mortar of liquid consistency. The mixture is rubbed over the wall in a layer about 2-3 mm thick, using a wide spatula or trowel. The remaining sagging can not be removed immediately, but wait until the composition has pre-set.

The main purpose of plastering preparation is to fill all the pores and depressions on the surface of the base. Therefore, the plaster is first carefully and forcefully rubbed in, scraping the base with a metal edge, and then the mixture is stretched into a more or less uniform layer. The latter is necessary to prevent the preparation surface from drying out before applying the next layer.

Throwing technique on walls

The leveling layer can be applied 10-14 hours after wiping. For leveling without beacons in a layer of up to 10 mm, it is allowed to apply the mortar to the wall using a spatula, grater or trowel, that is, simply spreading thin layers one after another with control using a rule bar. For a thicker layer, use a plaster ladle.

The walls of the bucket have a special shape that ensures easy sliding of the mixture when thrown. The movement should take place practically horizontal plane with a slight (up to 20º) tilt of the bucket towards the wall. In this case, the plaster is knocked into a dense lump and flies off the bucket with a slight upward throw.

The collision of the mixture with the wall must occur with a fairly large force, so the throw is performed with smooth acceleration without swinging and sharp braking. At the same time, at the moment of collision, the solution is compacted tightly and gets rid of air pores. Throwing plaster onto the wall is carried out in sections of 1-1.5 m2 in such a way that the adhered lumps protrude above the plane of installation of the beacons of about 7-10 mm. After filling one area, excess mixture is removed with the beveled part of the rule and mixed with fresh solution. Protruding mounds are cut off with the pointed side of the rail quite simply, but in addition to moving from bottom to top, they usually also perform longitudinal vibrations.

Grouting plaster

Drying of the base layer before grouting can be either complete or partial within 2-3 days. After the mixture has set, the beacons are pulled out, and the formed furrows are filled with the same solution that was used during the casting.

The resulting surface may have numerous defects, cracks and depressions, but the cut planes of the bumps form the basis for working with a polyurethane float of the appropriate size. The solution is first pressed into the recesses in small portions, and then rubbed over the surface in a circular motion without applying an additional layer. Due to the more liquid consistency of the wiping solution, it mixes with crumbling aggregate particles, so the surface of the plaster becomes durable and monolithic.

Drying and post-processing

Plastered surfaces are ready for finishing after a full curing period: solutions with a cement binder dry within 28 days, with a lime binder - within 20 days. During the first half of the established period, the surface should not be allowed to dry out, accompanied by the formation of a web of cracks due to uneven hydration. To eliminate such phenomena, high humidity is maintained in the room: containers with water are installed, and the plaster itself is periodically sprayed with water using a broom or hand sprayer.

Before applying the final finish, the plaster can be treated with a deep-penetrating strengthening primer. Before painting work It is also possible to wipe with gypsum putty of a thin consistency to fill the pores and reduce paint consumption.

When the need arises to level the walls with plaster, the consumer is faced with a huge choice various materials, which makes it difficult to figure out on your own how to plaster the walls in an apartment. Before deciding which plaster to choose for walls in any room, it is necessary to determine the future operating conditions of the surface, which will allow you to figure out which plaster for walls is better in each specific case.

Terms of Use. The material in question can be used for treating internal and external walls, in conditions of normal or high humidity. For interior work All types of finishing solutions are suitable in dry rooms.

To plaster external surfaces made of brick or concrete (facade elements, balconies), you will need a cement-sand mixture, and for working with surfaces exposed to high humidity, cement-lime mixtures are suitable.

Adding fiber to cement-sand mortars allows you to give higher strength characteristics when working with external walls.

Temperature conditions. In premises not intended for year-round living, for example, in country houses, do not use gypsum-based plaster solutions. When temperature changes, plaster made of this material will collapse. In this case, only cement mixtures can be used.

Characteristics of sand. To prepare surfaces for different kinds subsequent finishing, use sand of various fractions. So, to prepare a wall for painting, you should use the average size fractions, for final plastering - small, for leveling walls for pasting or installing tiles - large.

Finisher skills. Not every craftsman can apply the mortar correctly to the surface and smooth it out efficiently, so before starting work you should make sure that the invited finishers know how to work with a specific type of plaster mortar. It is difficult to do this work on your own, without training and practice.

Method of applying the solution. Besides manual application mixtures onto the surface, there is a possibility machining walls using special devices.

Price. The use of expensive and cheap materials, subject to the work technology, gives almost the same result, but there is a difference in the speed of surface treatment and the time it takes for the solution to fully gain strength. So, polymer compositions, although they are much more expensive than conventional cement or lime mixtures, they gain strength faster, which allows you to start the next work earlier.

Types of plaster by composition

For the preparation of various surfaces Three main types of plaster are used for interior decoration and external works:

Cement mortars. Universal material, suitable for almost any surface. TO positive qualities solutions with a predominance of cement include:

• the ability to withstand sudden changes in temperature without changing strength characteristics;
• the ability to process the applied material within several hours;
• plastered cement mixtures surfaces are frost-resistant and do not allow moisture and steam to pass through;
• affordable price;
• plastered surfaces can retain their properties and strength for at least 30 years.

The disadvantages of cement-based plaster mortars include a long (28 days) period of strength development and the need for highly qualified performers. Before wallpapering, the plastered surface will have to be puttied and a primer applied.

Gypsum solutions. This material allows you to prepare the surface for gluing with roll materials.

Advantages:

• drying time of the mixture is 2-3 hours;
• the solution is plastic and convenient for quickly completing work;
• the final strength gain occurs within 10 days;
• the plastered surface is ready for finishing work.

Flaws:

• gypsum is afraid of moisture, so this material is destroyed in humid environments.

Polymer solutions. This material is intended for eliminating minor imperfections on concrete and brick surfaces; it is also suitable for working with drywall.

Advantages:

• mixtures have antiseptic properties;
• are not afraid of humidity;
• can be used for processing external and internal surfaces;
• are a waterproofing material;
• can serve as finishing material.

Flaws:

• To obtain a high-quality coating, this material is applied to an already prepared and leveled surface.

Choosing plaster based on wall material

When the customer decides to level the walls with plaster, he needs to decide what is the best way to plaster the walls inside the house, what type plaster mixture apply in the bathroom and toilet, in the kitchen or in living rooms. The type of mixture depends on the material of the surface that is decided to be plastered.

How can you plaster the walls in the bathroom and toilet? It should be remembered that for rooms with high humidity solutions based on cement and lime are used, and there should be twice as much lime in this mixture as cement.

Before plastering wooden walls inside the house, for example, made of timber, it is necessary to strengthen a metal mesh on the surface, which will serve as a frame for plastering and will allow adhesion, since in its normal state the solution does not adhere to wood.

If the surface has significant vertical differences, it is recommended to eliminate uneven areas using shingles or installing special removable beacons. At the dachas and country houses, which are not intended for permanent residence, the best option for preparing walls is plaster, since drywall is destroyed under conditions of temperature and humidity changes.

To level wooden bases, mixtures with a predominance of cement and gypsum are used; it is possible to use clay solutions with a high content of plasticizers and the addition of fiber.

How to plaster the walls inside the house if the masonry is made of aerated blocks or gas silicate blocks, which are fixed with special glue? In this case, you will have to fix plaster mesh on the surface, and plastering of aerated concrete should be done with cement and gypsum mortars.

To figure out how to plaster walls from foam blocks inside the house, you need to remember that the usual rough finishing with cement mortars will not work in this case due to the complete lack of adhesion. A good option for leveling foam concrete and foam block walls, mixtures with a predominance of gypsum. For working with foam concrete surfaces, lightweight mixtures of Pobedit or Glims Velur gypsum are recommended.

For alignment brick or concrete walls, cement-based mixtures are best suited, which will ensure reliable adhesion of the mortar to obtain an ideal surface for painting, wallpapering or installing tiles.

Popular manufacturers and prices

When choosing suitable materials To level the walls, you should pay attention to already proven manufacturers. The most popular brands are:

• "Ceresit ST 29" for concrete and brick surfaces. Base: cement-sand mixture with mineral additives. Cost per package of 25 kg from 450 rubles;
• "Volma Canvas" for concrete, foam concrete and brick surfaces, their aerated concrete walls. Base: gypsum. Cost per package of 30 kg from 350 rubles;
• “Prospectors” for rooms with high humidity and concrete or brick surfaces. Base: cement-sand mixture with mineral additives. The cost of a 50 kg package starts from 400 rubles;
• "Knauf Rotband" for concrete and brick surfaces. Base: gypsum. Cost per package of 30 kg from 390 rubles;
• "Caparol Capatect" for brick surfaces, walls made of porous concrete and expanded clay. The basis: mineral materials. The cost for a package of 25 kg is from 700 rubles.

Popular brands of plaster mortars also include the following brands: “Osnovit”, “Unis”, “Betonit”, “Glims”, “Mapei”.

What to choose for a novice repairman

An inexperienced plasterer, when choosing a suitable mixture, should first of all pay attention to the material of the surface to be treated:

• For brick and concrete exterior and interior walls Cement mortar is best. It is optimal as a basis for further tiling and wallpapering, but in this case you will have to apply a layer of putty;
• If walls made of foam concrete are to be treated, gypsum solutions are used;
• For wooden surfaces, preparation is required in the form of shingles or metal mesh, and for plastering, cement or gypsum compounds are used.

For interior work in a city apartment optimal solution for concrete walls there will be gypsum-based materials that provide high-quality preparation of the surface for pasting.

When starting an apartment renovation, you should understand that you cannot do without plastering the walls, since they are never even. This is not a simple matter and requires certain skills, so you must first become familiar with the rules and technology for carrying out this type of work.

Why are walls plastered?

Plastering is an important process that is necessary not only for leveling walls, but also has a number of other functions:

• reliably protects against moisture and air entrapment;
• increases sound and thermal insulation;
• gives strength brickwork;
• serves as a decorative covering.

At correct implementation plastering the walls will look aesthetically pleasing and neat.

Preparation of material: what you will need for work

Before starting plastering, you should prepare necessary tool and material. You need to decide on the type of plaster mixture, since today there are a large number of them, it happens:

• cement-sand;
• plaster;
• cement-lime.

When choosing, you need to take into account the type of wall, durability, and when finishing the apartment, do not forget about environmental safety (it is better to take water-based ones). If you have concrete, aerated concrete or brick walls, a cement-lime mixture is suitable. Eat universal look– cement-sand, it is suitable for plastering different walls. The most popular at present is considered to be gypsum mixture. It is easy to use and the quality of the walls is excellent. But it is expensive and cannot be used in rooms with high humidity.

For work you should stock up:

• dowels, painting beacons, self-tapping screws;
• a screwdriver, a hammer, a grinder, scissors for cutting metal;
• building level, plumb line, tape measure;
• thread and pencil;
• spatulas - narrow and wide;
• brush, roller, iron;
• mortar, putty, primer;
• aluminum rule;
• a hammer drill with a set of drills and a mixer attachment;
• a container for mixing the solution;
• work clothes and gloves.

After preparing everything you need, you can start working.

Plastering walls with cement-sand mortar

Cement-sand mixture is universal and can be used for walls different types(concrete, brick, wood). It is used as repair material a long time ago. This mixture is cheap, and the process itself is quite simple and can be done independently. In addition, only this solution is suitable for wet areas. Consists of cement, sand and various additives for strength.

Despite its simplicity, it is heavy and not easy to work with. In addition, when using this mixture it is impossible to create a perfectly flat surface, so it is not suitable for painting. It is most often used when future finishing with ceramic tiles is planned.

If you decide to make the solution yourself, then the proportions are as follows: 3-4 parts of sand are added to 1 part of cement (depending on the brand of cement). Water should be poured little by little until you get a homogeneous mass.

Spraying the walls

Spray is the first layer of coating. It is applied with a thickness of 5-10 mm. The thickness depends on the smoothness of the wall; the smoother it is, the thinner the layer. If plastering occurs on a mesh, then the thickness is 1 cm.

The mixture is applied using two spatulas, wide and narrow. The solution is applied to a wide spatula, take the mixture from it with a narrow one and apply it to the wall using pressing movements. The spray is applied from bottom to top. Since the layer is considered a preparatory layer, it is not leveled and should be laid immediately without large irregularities.

Priming

Primer is a plaster coating that is covered with a second layer. Its composition is denser and has a dough-like consistency. The application thickness is 1 cm, this layer must be well leveled. If this does not work in one layer, apply a second one. Be sure to let the first layer dry completely before applying the next one.

The soil can be spread with a trowel or spread with a spatula. After application, it should be leveled using a plaster rule. It is worth noting that without the use of guide beacons, it is difficult to perfectly level the plaster.

Covering

The last layer is the covering. The solution for this layer must be semi-liquid, applied 5 mm thick with a wide spatula, the surface must be leveled in advance.

When applying the mixture and smoothing it, plaster collects on the tool; it must be removed in time and mixed with fresh composition.

Technology of plastering walls with dry gypsum mixtures

The dry gypsum mixture is simple and easy to apply. Unlike cement mortars, gypsum mortars have some advantages:

• even thick layer it dries quickly;
• plastic, therefore less likely to crack;
• has good adhesion, suitable for use on any surface;
• easy to prepare and convenient to use.

Plastering walls with a gypsum mixture includes several stages:

1. Surface preparation – cleaning the walls from dust and dirt, removing uneven surfaces. Then coat with a primer, preferably acrylic. If the wall is new, one layer of primer is enough, with old surface- two. The primer should dry within 24 hours.
2. Installation of beacons - they are attached to the gypsum mixture perpendicular to the horizon with a distance of 1 m. Using a stretched cord (from one edge of the wall to the other), it is determined how far the beacon protrudes forward and its position is adjusted. After this, the gap between the lighthouse and the wall is filled with mortar.
3. Prepare the mixture according to the instructions. The mixture is poured cold water and stir until smooth. The solution will set faster if it is diluted with hot water. It should be mixed in small volumes (10-15 kg) in order to have time to use the solution before it sets.
4. Applying the mixture - it should be applied at a time to a height of up to a meter. The solution is smoothed from the bottom up; if uneven areas are detected, the mixture is added to them and leveled again.
5. The final layer - after plastering the wall completely, is applied last layer solution. This is done with a spatula, the mass is applied and the excess solution is removed with the next movement.
6. Sanding is done when all layers of the mortar are dry.

Now you can start finishing work.

Sequence of work

In order for the plaster to adhere better and last longer, you should prepare the wall. The surface is cleaned down to the base - old wallpaper and trim are removed. If cracks are found on the walls, they need to be covered, as the plaster applied to them will also crack.

Sealing cracks

There are several ways to seal cracks, which one to choose depends on its thickness and their number:

• If the crack is not wide, then most likely it is deep. Therefore, it is necessary to expand it to free up access inside. The resulting gap is cleared of dust and treated with a primer. After drying, it is covered with putty, you can use cement or gypsum.
• If there is a very narrow crack that does not go deep, it is sealed with sealant.
• To seal a wide gap, you can use foam.

Now, everything is ready for the next stage of work.

Preparing a brick wall

If Brick wall has old plaster, it should be moistened with water using a sponge, then it will come off easier. Use a spatula and hammer to carefully remove the old finish. After that, using an iron brush or a grinding machine, you need to process the wall.

At the next stage, recesses are made between the bricks up to 7 mm. They are necessary because the plaster will fit into them and be stronger. The recesses are cleaned with a brush and a damp sponge. The process is completed by treating the wall with a primer; it should be applied in 2 layers.

How to prepare a concrete wall

concrete wall It is easier to clean old finishes than brick ones, because they are smooth. The following methods can be used:

• if there is whitewash, it is moistened with a sponge and cleaned with an iron brush, after which the wall is washed well;
• There is another, dry method - a thick layer of paste is applied to the whitewash and when it dries, it is cleaned off along with the plaster using a spatula.

When the surface is cleaned, you need to make small notches on it; this is quite difficult, but necessary. If you do not want to make notches, you can use another method - priming the walls with a composition containing deep penetration, to which small is added quartz sand. If you feel roughness after running along the wall, then the plaster will hold tightly.

Wooden walls

Old plaster It is very easy to remove from a wooden surface. The wall is tapped with a hammer and the finish crumbles. Therefore, to make it easier to remove debris, place oilcloth under the wall.

In order for the plaster solution to hold better, you should fill the slats with wood (shingles). They are packed diagonally. In addition, they play the role of beacons when leveling the surface.

If there are old slats on the wall, they must be removed, as they could have rotted or there may be insects in them. Therefore, before installing new shingles, the wooden surface should be treated with an antiseptic; this will protect against mold and insects. Having filled the slats, you need to treat them with this composition again. Instead of shingles, you can use a chain-link mesh, which is attached not to the wall itself, but to the slats. The solution can only be applied to dry walls.

Foam concrete walls

The work involved in preparing this type of wall is quite long. At the first stage, the wall is cleaned; a metal brush is needed for this. Cleaning should be done thoroughly and attention should be paid to the presence of greasy stains on the surface. Grease stains must be removed; clay is used for this. It is applied to the oily area and then removed. If this does not help and the stain remains, it is cut out and the hole is sealed with a solution.

The cleaned surface is primed in several stages. After applying the first layer, it is leveled with a spatula and allowed to dry. Then the second layer is applied. Regardless of the unevenness of the wall, the primer should not exceed 2 mm. If there are large differences, they must be eliminated by installing drywall in these areas.

The next step is to install the reinforcing mesh and secure it with dowels. Now you can start plastering.

Ways to level walls

Plaster is a material that lends itself perfectly to leveling. There are two ways to level walls when plastering.

Alignment without beacons

This method is more economical as the solution consumption is reduced. When leveling without beacons:

• putty 3-5 cm thick is applied to the cleaned and primed surface with a spatula, and then partially leveled using a rule;
• when this layer has dried, the rule is to cover the missing areas.

Displaying beacons: metal, plaster, plastic

Leveling in this way ensures uniform application of the solution. Beacons are installed from each other at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule. You should start making the first two markings at a distance of 15-20 cm from the corner. A vertical line is drawn and holes for the dowels are made on it. They are installed on self-tapping screws in the same plane. A small amount of solution is applied to the line between the fastenings, and the beacons are fixed to it. This is done by pressing the rule, the beacons are attached to the heads of the screws. The excess solution that appears is removed. After placing the beacons, you should check the evenness of the installation and, if necessary, their location is adjusted.

There are several types of lighthouses:

• Metal - galvanized iron with holes that serve as stops during plastering. Excess solution is removed as a rule. Their usual length is 300 cm, and depth is 3.6 and 10 mm. They are attached with screws.
• Plaster - using them saves time and plaster, because you will not need to pull out the beacons and seal the holes. The installation process is as follows: the dowels are attached, using a level they are installed at the desired height, they are placed on the caps metal profiles or a block of wood. A gypsum mixture is placed under the profile. After removing excess solution, the profile is removed. The resulting strip of gypsum is a beacon; such strips must be made over the entire surface.
• Plastic - they are similar to metal ones, but consist of durable plastic. Fixed to the wall with screws. Their only drawback is that they can break if hit hard by the rule.

Plaster application technique

After installing the beacons, you can begin plastering.

Please note that when applying a thick layer, the solution must be thick. If the surface absorbs moisture strongly, it must be moistened.

Plaster is applied by throwing it on the wall. It is leveled from bottom to top. Then, moving the rule from below and holding it at an angle, the excess mixture is removed. If bubbles appear on the surface, then these areas need to be redone. This should be done until the ceiling is reached. Areas near the floor and ceiling are done after the wall has dried.

To check the resulting result, the rule is applied under different angles. If there are metal beacons, they are removed and the holes from them are sealed.

If the wall has large irregularities, then the plaster is done in two layers. First rough, without leveling, and after 2 days the second, finishing.

After applying the plaster, grouting is done. In this case, the plaster used is more liquid and is better if the wall is not completely dry. The solution is applied to the powder and spread in a thin layer. When the wall is dry, you should go over it with a wooden float and finally sand the surface by attaching felt to the float.

How to plaster walls yourself

If you decide to plaster the walls yourself, then you should familiarize yourself with the technology and sequence of work. Study the available compositions and choose the optimal one. When preparing the solution, you must follow the instructions exactly.

In addition, when starting work, it is necessary to ensure appropriate conditions, there should be no: drafts, high temperature. To prevent cracks from appearing, do not apply the solution to a poorly dried previous layer. Do not dilute the solution too much, it dries quickly, and you will work slowly, because you do not have experience.

Who is better to entrust the work to?

The services of a qualified finishing specialist are quite expensive, although if you have the funds, the quality will be better and in time renovation work will complete faster.

However, if you want to save money and test your strength in this field, then go for it. Of course, the process will take a lot of time and effort, but this type You can actually do the work yourself. In addition, you will gain new skills and be proud of the result of your work.

In any case, you can’t do without plastering the walls when renovating an apartment. And it is important to do this correctly so that the money and labor invested are not in vain. And the result did not disappoint, but delighted you with the new interior.

Plastering is the restoration of a surface for subsequent finishing. At this stage, defects are sealed and the base is leveled. To perform plastering, you must have experience in carrying out this type of work. Hire a crew professional craftsmen. However, even a beginner can perform restoration using a solution. To do this, the amateur should familiarize himself with the videos “Learning to plaster walls: video tutorials”, and also carefully study the recommendations given below.

Before considering the question of how to learn how to plaster walls (video instructions will be given at the end of the article), you need to find out whether it is necessary to plaster the surface.

The use of the material is advisable if the surface has cracks, potholes, drops and other defects. In this case, the solution helps to get rid of imperfections in the building base. However, professionals recommend using plaster even if there are no defects on the surface. The material protects the building base from the destructive effects of moisture and other negative impact environment.

What should you consider when restoring a foundation?

Hobbyists who plaster surfaces with their own hands are advised to consider the following points:

• for restoration of the building foundation, only high-quality material should be chosen;
• Before use, the mixture should be stored in a dry place;
• the solution must be prepared in strict accordance with the instructions.

Choosing a mixture for plastering

Before you learn how to plaster, you need to understand how to choose the material for restoration.

According to the degree of readiness, they are distinguished:

• Ready-made compositions. Such materials do not require preparation. The products are used immediately after opening the package. The disadvantage is the high price.
• Dry mixes. This product needs cooking. After mixing, the solution is used within half an hour. Because of this, you have to prepare the mixture in small portions and apply the material in several approaches. This is the main drawback of the product. The advantage of dry mixtures over ready-made materials is their reasonable cost.

The following types of material are distinguished by purpose:

• Ordinary composition. Designed for leveling surfaces and masking defects.
• Decorative. Used to apply the finishing coat. The material has an unusual texture, due to which it creates an original texture on the surface.

Classification of material by composition:

• Sand-cement composition. This budget material. The product is easy to apply, but will require an industrial mixer or a drill with a mixer attachment. Non-professional finishers are recommended to work with this composition, since the product has reasonable cost and easy to use.
• Gypsum composition. The material creates sound and heat insulation of the surface, does not shrink and does not crack after hardening. Disadvantage: it absorbs moisture, so it cannot be used for facades or in rooms with high humidity. The material can be used by non-professional finishers.
• Acrylic material. The operational period of such coating is 50 years. The product is recommended for use even by beginners.
• Silicone plaster. This ready material. The product is suitable for surfaces of any type. The product is easy to apply, does not shrink and has a long service life. However, beginners who are just thinking about how to learn how to plaster walls are not recommended to use such a tool. The product is expensive, so it is better to practice on another product.
• Silicate composition. It is characterized by increased strength and resistance to mechanical damage. Product contains liquid glass, thanks to which it hardens quickly. For this reason, the material is not recommended for use by beginners mastering plastering work.

Types of dry mixture

Types of dry mixture:

• Simple material. The surface differences after shrinkage of the product are 3 mm. The product is recommended for use in finishing rooms where aesthetics are not important. These include warehouses and garages.
• Improved composition. After the material shrinks, the surface differences are 2 mm. The material is used for finishing institutions - schools, administrations and other institutions.
• High quality mixture. The surface differences after shrinkage of the product are 1 mm. The material is used for finishing residential buildings and apartments.

Required materials and tools

The video tutorial below demonstrates how to learn to plaster walls. However, before finishing, you should prepare necessary materials and tools:

• plaster;
• a clean plastic bucket for preparing the material;
• lighthouses;
• falcon;
• scraper;
• grater and industrial grater;
• trowel;
• rule;
• Master OK;
• level;
• plumb line

Rules for plastering a building base

If you want to learn how to learn how to apply plaster, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with all the stages of finishing.

Preparing the premises

To prepare the room for plastering the walls, you need to remove the interior items. If the floor covering will not be changed, then the floor is covered with film and the material is fixed with boards, bricks or other weights. It is also recommended to remove lighting and cover the wires.

Surface preparation

Instructions for preparing the construction base:

• dismantle the old covering;
• tap the walls to identify unstable areas and get rid of them;
• increase surface defects, treat cracks and potholes with a primer and fill with repair mortar;
• Clean the walls from dust and dirt.

Priming the base

Priming is a mandatory step before applying plaster and should not be neglected. The primer protects the building base from mold and mildew, and also improves the adhesion of the wall to the material. The primer is applied with a brush, roller or spray, as shown in the photo below. It is recommended to treat the walls twice with a break for the composition to dry.

Installation of profiles

Rules for placing beacons:

• step back 3 cm from the floor and ceiling and 5 cm from the corners of the wall and screw in the screws at these points;
• a fishing line is tied to the fasteners vertically and horizontally;
• under the vertical line in small areas the solution is fixed at a distance of 10 cm from each other;
• a beacon is attached to the train;
• profiles are fixed along the entire perimeter of the wall in increments of less than 1.5 m.

Preparation of the solution

Only dry mixtures need to be prepared. According to the instructions, the material is combined with water, the solution is mixed using an industrial mixer or a drill with a mixer attachment. The proportions of dry mixture and liquid are indicated on the packaging.

The thickness of the solution depends on which layer the material is being prepared for. For the first and third layers, prepare a material with the consistency of sour cream, and for the second – a dough-like mass.

Application of the composition

The video in this article demonstrates how to properly apply the solution to a surface. This is done as follows:

• Using a trowel, sketch the material onto the surface. This will be the first layer, which is called the spray.
• Using a wide spatula, apply the second layer of mortar - primer. The material must extend beyond the profiles. Level the composition as a rule until the solution hardens. Remove excess product with a spatula.
• Apply a third layer of material. This will be the cover.

Completion of plastering

1. After applying the last layer, until the solution has hardened, dismantle the beacons.
2. Fill the voids with the solution and level the composition over the surface using a spatula.
3. Using an industrial float, grout the material. To do this, moisten the surface with water, press the tool against the wall and use circular movements to eliminate imperfections.
4. Apply the primer, wait for the product to dry and proceed to decorating.

To ensure that the finish lasts for a long time, consider the recommendations of professionals:

• if the surface has a porous structure, then the primer is applied in two layers;
• if gypsum material was used for restoration, then grouting of the surface is carried out within 4 hours after completion of plastering;
• after applying the solution, the profiles must be dismantled;
• if after plastering it is placed ceramic tile, then the material does not need careful leveling and you can get by with one layer of material;
• if the walls are being prepared for painting, then apply paint material should be 14 days after treating the surface with a gypsum compound and a month after applying cement-sand plaster.

You can learn how to plaster using the video tutorial below.

Plastering the surface is a finishing stage that even a beginner can learn to perform. The main thing is to familiarize yourself with the rules for selecting and applying the material.

Evgeniy Sedov

When your hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)

Content

Everyone who decides to start a project thinks about this question. self-repair apartment, house or other premises. Plastering helps level the surfaces of partitions, walls or other planes, making them perfectly smooth. How can I use the mixture to eliminate visible defects on a plane?

The best way to plaster walls

Before leveling the surface, you should know how to properly plaster walls and what type of plaster there is:

1. Ordinary. It is used to level the working surface so that a thin layer of decorative coating can be applied to it. Ordinary plaster protects external walls from the harmful effects of the environment.
2. Special. Designed to improve the heat and sound insulation of a room. This kind of mixture creates a shielding layer on the surface, which protects against x-rays, etc.
3. Decorative. Serves as a finishing touch and increases the aesthetic expressiveness of the structure.

The following mixtures are often used for plastering walls:

1. Lime-sand mortar. Recommended for interior finishing, due to the fact that its consistency is less durable, unlike cement-sand mortar. The advantage of this mixture is its environmental friendliness and ease of use.
2. Cement-sand mortar. Can be used to level internal and external surfaces. The composition at a relatively low cost can change your brick garage or serve as a base for bathroom tiles. When working with such plaster, it is possible to correct significant wall defects. If the solution was correctly prepared and applied to the wall, then street covering will last for many years.
3. Gypsum mixture. Suitable for interior decoration. The use of selenite and alabaster guarantees an absolutely smooth surface. The process of finishing with gypsum mixture is quick and simple. The disadvantage of the coating is its high price and instability against moisture.
4. Magnesium mixture. It is an additional component in the preparation of specialized plaster, with the help of which finishing work is carried out indoors.

Wall plastering technology

A person performing repair work needs to know how to properly apply plaster to walls. Then you can determine the tools needed for the job:

1. Plastering spatula - main equipment finishing works, which you can’t do without. Thanks to it, the process of dosing raw materials, mixing, pouring, and leveling the solution is carried out.
2. Liter bucket. Necessary for dosing the finishing material and carefully applying the mixture.
3. Half graters. There are various sizes and are intended for leveling the finished surface and grouting the last layer.
4. Beacons are rule strips that help determine the level of application of the solution to the surface.

If you have all the tools necessary for finishing, then you can proceed to direct leveling. To do this, you need to know how to plaster walls with your own hands. The process involves:

• Cleansing, moisturizing and thorough preparation walls If the covering is brick, then the seams should be cleared, the depth of which will be at least one centimeter. Wooden and cinder-concrete walls must be covered with frequent notches or covered with reinforced mesh with a cell diameter of no more than five centimeters. It is better to paint the mesh so that it is not damaged by corrosion.
• Placing the husks on a previously prepared surface. That is, mortar marks are applied in the corners, which are equal to the thickness of the required layer of plaster mass. Beacons are attached to these places and the solution is poured into the cavity between the marker and the wall in three layers: the first is a five-millimeter spray of liquid mixture, the second is soil, which is the thickest layer (thicker than the spray), the third is a two-millimeter coating applied to the soil, which has already hardened, and then leveled.
• Plastering the main wall in three stages. Beacons are placed on it, and then a solution is thrown on it.
• Grout. The applied composition is rubbed using trowels with intense circular movements, and the remaining raised depressions are filled with fresh plaster.

How to level walls with plaster

The plaster is wonderful finishing material which contributes perfect alignment. How to plaster walls correctly? To do this you need:

1. Remove the finishing in the form of wallpaper, the top layer of plaster that was previously on the surface. Try to rid the walls (brick, etc.) of cracks, chips, voids.
2. Apply the correct coat of primer to ensure the new plaster adheres perfectly.
3. Measure the curvature of the surface before direct installation pendulums. Apply a level to it and calculate the difference between the top and bottom points. The site should be chosen at least one and a half meters in order to establish accurate curvature indicators. If the difference is less than a centimeter, then leveling can be done with putty, but noticeable differences require plaster.
4. Fix the beacons using alabaster in a vertical position along the entire length on the upper drops. We pull the thread onto the profile from top to bottom.

It's time to learn how to plaster walls correctly: first of all, prepare the mixture, and then apply the solution in casts from pendulum to pendulum. The process will go much faster if you use special equipment - a compressor (gun) for plaster. After one layer has dried, apply another. Do not try to level the plaster at once, it is impossible. The leveling layer must be applied using a spatula. It is subsequently rubbed down with a trowel or sandpaper.

Plastering walls on beacons

Beacons help make any surface perfectly flat. They clearly allow you to see how much plaster should be applied. Plastering on beacons is carried out in the classic way, which is often used in construction: pulling a pair of cords parallel to the floor and ceiling, vertically and diagonally. This method of marking gives a clear idea of ​​the unevenness of the walls, which should be covered with plaster.

Distance between cord and work surface chosen arbitrarily, but it must be sufficient so that there is no contact. The first two marks should be placed in the corners of the wall with an indentation of fifteen to twenty centimeters and secured with alabaster. Intermediate ones are installed along cords that are stretched between profiles coming out of the corners. How to properly plaster the walls then? The solution is applied from lighthouse to lighthouse.

Aligning walls without beacons

The advantages of plastering with this method are savings, since the consumption of finished plaster is significantly reduced due to application in a thin layer and due to the absence of labor-intensive preparatory work for placing beacons. So, for alignment without beacons it follows.