How to make polymer self-leveling floors. Method of pouring polymer floors, consumer reviews and prices for materials. Mineral self-leveling coatings
Self-leveling polymer floors are also called “liquid linoleum” - they are so comfortable to use. This is a new word in interior design, and simply a godsend for industrial premises. They add additional visual volume to any interior thanks to their soft shine and seamless surface. Minimal shrinkage, high elasticity and modern aesthetics - these are the qualities thanks to which polymer floors are now gaining more and more popularity in the CIS countries, and abroad they have long been number one on the market.
Polymer flooring: fashion or practicality?
Today there are many types of polymer flooring: for every taste, style and idea. And according to their composition they are divided into:
- Polyurethane. The floor has good performance and can be laid independently, either technical room
- , and in a residential building. Epoxy-urethane. This coating is especially resistant to abrasion and is indispensable for significant pedestrian and transport loads
- : workshops, corridors and warehouses. True, the price is quite high. Methyl methacrylate.
- When laying such a floor, it is necessary to strictly follow the process technology, but within 2 hours after drying you can walk on it. It is frost-resistant and can withstand any bad weather outdoors. Cement-polyurethane
coatings are used mainly to create floors with severe operating conditions: high temperatures, exposure to aggressive chemicals and live steam. It is this kind of floor that most effectively protects the concrete base from destruction, which is why they are most often ordered for car service centers.
Of course, epoxy and polyurethane floors are more popular today due to their coating thickness: from 0.5 mm to 6 mm. Let's compare these two types of flooring. So, epoxy ones are much harder, they are cheaper, but they are laid in a layer of up to 5 mm, while polyurethane ones are enough to 3 mm. And polyurethane floors are more scratch-resistant than epoxy floors.
So, what is a polymer floor? Experts divide all the compounds that are used today into two main groups: polymer and mineral. The latter are a mixture of cement, modifiers and fillers, on which the speed of filling the mixture depends. These are self-leveling floors that easily form a level surface. finishing surface due to low connectivity. Polymer floors are used as a continuous finishing coating, which may depend on the mixture itself and fillers.
Self-leveling polymer floors are made by modern manufacturers from epoxy resins or polyurethane. Initially, this beauty was used only in industrial workshops, but apartment residents also like the dustlessness, lack of seams of the flooring and the possibility of unlimited decoration.
For a bathroom, a polymer floor is absolutely perfect option. Due to the absence of seams, moisture will not penetrate under it, and to the touch this coating is as pleasant and warm as linoleum, but not as soft. Another significant plus for the bathroom: polymer floors are not prone to mold or mildew.
Interestingly, even the most glossy self-leveling floors at first glance still have valuable anti-slip properties. That is why today even in swimming pools they are abandoning tiles, replacing them with colorful and fashionable polymer floors. And lately people want to see such floors in the bedroom, in the nursery, and even in the office. After all, polymers have simply amazing qualities, and, thanks to the fact that they are the main components of self-leveling floors, any design idea now has the right to life.
Even stunning 3D effects, for which today airbrush artists are often invited, for whom it is enough to add a few additional touches to the same fish under water to make them seem bright and alive.
Technical characteristics of the coating
This floor is warmer to the touch than tiles and even softer than linoleum, and it can easily be combined with a heated floor system. Plus a lot of pleasant advantages:
- High wear resistance;
- No dangerous slipping;
- Resistance to aggressive household chemicals;
- Absolutely environmentally friendly - all components of the solution are non-toxic;
- Ideally smooth surface for any subsequent finishing;
- Hygienic and easy to clean;
- Possibility to apply any image;
- Fire safety and high level of waterproofing;
- Complete absence of seams and joints where bacteria and dirt do not collect;
- And polymer floors are so resistant to low temperatures that they are even used as a base for large freezers.
The resistance of the self-leveling polymer floor to temperature is amazing: it will not lose its properties in the range from -60°C to +90°C. And even on the verge of these values, the floor will neither ignite, nor smoke, nor emit any toxins. And all because the polymers meet international standards.
And, unlike, these floors never emit dust or life-threatening compounds. In addition, interesting images are applied to them: 3D pictures, small details and much more. We can say that polymer floors are a real field for the imagination of modern designers.
But polymer floors also have some disadvantages that you should know:
- Quite a large amount of work and the time it takes to complete it
- High cost of materials used
- High price for the estimate if you hire a construction team
And keep this in mind in advance: if you ever want to change flooring, then it will be extremely difficult to tear off the self-leveling floor - it is much easier to fill it with a new layer or simply lay the same one or. In general, that's all the disadvantages.
What does the market offer?
Self-leveling floors have a wide range of colors and patterns - much wider than even tiles. Prices for polymer coatings are quite different: they depend on the design, polymers used and brand. Also, with a strong mechanical impact on the floor in the room, preference is given to the polyurethane version, since epoxy is less elastic. But for a constant static load - just right.
As for the brand, so far the most best reviews you can hear about the self-leveling floor Gipcreet Thermafloor. This is a lightweight polymer solution that never cracks. No less popular today is the Elakor PU self-leveling floor brand. This mixture contains a good hardener and color base that are mixed right before use. As a result, the floor is resistant to loads, dampness and active use. chemicals.
You can also hear good reviews about Praspan and Proplan, SIKA and Hyperdesmo. And for the most complex projects, they often choose RINOL, an Italian company that today is considered the world leader in self-leveling coating systems. Such floors are irreplaceable for those rooms where special or increased requirements are imposed:
- Parking lots;
- Operating rooms;
- Supermarkets;
- Public premises;
- Transformer substations.
The environmental friendliness, durability and UV resistance of the final coating really depend on the quality of the materials used. If you hire a team to pour a polymer floor, it would be a good idea to ask them about their certificates.
It is not the polymer floor itself that is expensive, but its installation. Construction companies indeed often inflate prices for such services, which they themselves often admit. That's why, if you learn how to fill such a coating yourself, then a modern self-leveling floor will not be a luxury for you, but an excellent option for updating your home. And over time, thanks to its impressive service life, a polymer floor will pay you back at least twice.
Do-it-yourself pouring - how realistic is it?
Absolutely real. After all, the self-leveling floor adheres tightly to any base: tiles, concrete and even wood. The only main thing is that it is clean, dried, smooth and grease-free. The total moisture content of the base should not exceed 5%.
So, after you put the mixture on the floor, it will spread on its own and take up perfectly. horizontal level. Your only task is to ensure that no air bubbles appear anywhere - and for this they use a studded roller.
And you can place any objects to be created right at the finishing stage: lay it out on a thin layer of polymer varnish and fill it all over again.
How to care for self-leveling floors?
And finally, it’s not difficult to care for self-leveling floors. It needs to be updated periodically, covering protective varnish, and the rest of the time, wet or dry cleaning is sufficient.
Polymer self-leveling floors are washed with a special household chemicals with a high acid content. It needs to be applied to the floor surface for five to ten minutes, then thoroughly remove the remaining polish and rinse the coating thoroughly, using as much as possible more water. This is usually done using special equipment, but you can do it yourself. If there are tire stains or other complex stains on the floor, then these areas are covered with a deep cleaning detergent for five minutes, after which they are cleaned.
In industrial premises, where there is a particularly strong mechanical load on the floor, dirt gets clogged into microcracks invisible to the eye, and the coating becomes a little dull. Then modern high-pressure washing units are used, which easily knock out all the dirt and the renewed floor is varnished.
If the self-leveling polymer floor will be frequently washed with aggressive chemicals in the future (for example, medical institutions), then it is protected from damage even at the pouring stage - by covering it with a special protective polish using a monom. And this polish needs to be renewed every six months.
Also remember that polymer coatings are not designed for long-term exposure to alkalis or high concentration acids - and therefore you cannot leave detergents on the surface for a long time. And another tip: it is advisable to install rubber pads on the legs of furniture or work equipment - this will make the floor last longer.
So why, given the relatively inexpensive material and quite understandable installation technology, do they charge so much for such work? It’s just that for our country such floors are to some extent still a novelty, and it’s always good to make money on new products. Try to do it yourself - the next step is to replace the floors in absolutely all other rooms!
The technology for creating a polymer self-leveling floor is complex and labor-intensive, especially when it comes to 3D coating.
Specialists involved in the creation of polymer floors must have experience not only in pouring this type of mortar, but also in other related construction work.
This requirement is associated with the step-by-step actions of installing a polymer self-leveling floor, which also includes rough work with concrete.
Just a few years ago, polymer self-leveling flooring was used for pouring only in industrial buildings With high performance mechanical or chemical influences.
Over time, the material has been modernized.
The high quality of the coating and the visually attractive appearance did their job; the polymer floor found its application in civil engineering. More recently, amazing technology has emerged that allows you to create a 3D coating.
Today, without resorting to the services of craftsmen, polymer self-leveling floors are created by the owners themselves in their apartment.
Before moving on to the diagram for installing self-leveling floors with your own hands, it is worth getting acquainted with their types and purposes.
Types and features of self-leveling floors
On this moment on construction market Two types of self-leveling floors are in high demand: polyurethane and epoxy.
Polyurethane self-leveling coating is an industrial floor that is used as floor surfaces in warehouses, hangars, and production facilities.
They can also be used in parking lots and buildings Food Industry and industrial refrigeration units.
Industrial polymer floors are endowed with a high degree of wear resistance and are resistant to mechanical and chemical influences.
Due to their unique structure, industrial self-leveling floors can perfectly cope with deformation loads on the base.
Epoxy polymer floors (another name is “liquid linoleum”) - also have high strength characteristics and resistance to impact chemical substances.
In addition, epoxy self-leveling coatings have a smooth surface and wide choice color solutions.
Contains epoxy polymer material There are no solvents, so the coating does not emit any pungent odors.
This type of flooring is used for making floors in residential premises with your own hands.
The 3D technology for creating coatings stands out. This innovation is currently only affordable for people with above-average income. In an ordinary apartment or a simple private house, 3D coating is practically not found.
Preparing the base for pouring self-leveling floors
The polymer coating pouring technology involves performing the following step-by-step actions:
- Preparation concrete base;
- device of the first - main layer;
- applying the second – decorative layer;
- the third stage is the varnish layer.
If 3D creation technology is used, then such a drawing is created according to a completely different scheme.
A properly prepared subfloor base is the key to obtaining a high-quality self-leveling surface.
As a rule, epoxy polymer coatings are applied to a concrete base, which has the following requirements:
- evenness of the plane, complete absence of defects on the base (cracks and gouges);
- arrangement of waterproofing;
- cleanliness of the coating, absence of greasy oil stains;
- moisture content of the concrete base is not more than 4%;
- The screed is installed using cement of at least M 200.
Therefore, if the base of the floor leaves much to be desired, it is recommended to apply a new concrete screed, under which waterproofing material is laid with your own hands.
It will take several days for the base to ripen, after which you can begin priming it.
A carefully primed base should have a surface that visually resembles sandpaper, which will indicate its high adhesive properties and allow for ease of application of the polymer solution.
Decorative elements and a set of necessary tools
In addition to the fact that epoxy polymer coatings differ from all other floor finishes high level performance indicators, they can surprise you with their decorative properties.
Such floors allow you to create an original surface that has never been used anywhere else with your own hands.
To do this, just stock up on decorative elements, which can be sea pebbles and small shells, coins or multi-colored buttons.
Subsequently, you can lay out a beautiful mosaic from them.
Flooring is not limited to the above-mentioned decoration method.
In some places, such a floor is designed in the form of an artistic system, which involves the use of stencils and the application of certain patterns with paints.
That is why the self-leveling floor can be safely called a bright representative of decorative surfaces.
Separately, it is worth mentioning the 3D design technology. Of course, such 3D coating is not cheap, but it is worth it.
Before installing a self-leveling floor, you must have the following set of tools and auxiliary materials on hand:
- a container with a volume of about 30 liters for preparing the composition;
- shoes with spikes (paint shoes) for walking on the treated surface;
- simple spatula, for use in hard-to-reach areas;
- a squeegee spatula, which, using an adjustable gap, will allow you to evenly distribute the mixture;
- whisk, low speed drill;
- aeration roller (with spikes) to remove air bubbles from the freshly laid layer.
Pouring a polymer self-leveling floor
The technology by which liquid linoleum is applied consists of two stages. At the first stage, the underlying layer is poured with your own hands, at the second stage the front (finish) coating is applied.
This is how liquid linoleum is obtained.
The components of the first coating are two components: fine quartz sand and liquid epoxy polymer material.
Liquid polymer composition distributed over the base in order to completely hide minor defects. In this case, the thickness of its layer should not exceed 1.5 mm.
Work begins no earlier than the primer has dried. It takes a day for the liquid layer to dry.
Using a level, determine the deviation of the floor plane.
If the thickness of the base at the highest point should be about 2 mm, then an acceptable thickness of the epoxy layer at the lowest point is approximately 10 mm.
Ready liquid solution spread over the base using a metal spatula, focusing on the highest point floor surface. The thickness should not be greater than stated.
The liquid solution in portions must be prepared quickly and according to instructions, with a maximum time period of use of no more than 10 minutes.
It will take at least a day to polymerize the applied layer. If defects are found on the base, then the self-leveling linoleum is cleaned with your own hands using abrasive materials.
After this, the process of applying the front finish is repeated again.
At the next stage, they proceed to applying the finishing polymer layer.
Polymer linoleum is poured onto the floor surface in strips, their thickness is leveled using a special tool called a squeegee.
In hard-to-reach areas of the apartment, a spatula is used to distribute the layer.
After the self-leveling linoleum has been completely distributed over the base and covered the entire area to be treated, you need to walk over the surface with a needle roller with your own hands.
The technology involves the use of an aeration roller so that the thickness of the polymer layer gets rid of air bubbles that negatively affect the quality of the polymer floor.
In order to further protect the polymer coating, self-leveling linoleum in an apartment can be treated with wear-resistant varnish. The thickness of the coating does not matter in this case.
In rooms with large area The technology for applying a polymer self-leveling floor with your own hands is slightly different from installing a floor in small spaces.
Before pouring linoleum, the base is divided into several sections using expansion joints.
After the epoxy floors are poured, the expansion joints are sealed with a sealant specially created for self-leveling floors.
In conclusion, it is worth noting that self-leveling polymer floors, in addition to decorative functions, have many advantages in the apartment, one of which is sufficient thickness.
Therefore, such coatings are ideal for underfloor heating systems and are highly durable and practical.
In addition, they are endowed with the ability to respond to temperature changes without changing the structure.
Floors made from such materials are vapor permeable, which means that polymer coating breathes.
After reading the article, you learned a lot about polymer self-leveling floors that can be found in an apartment (even in the 3D version). But often industrial enterprises also choose self-leveling floors.
Floors are one of the most difficult interior parts to repair and replace, as they require significant reworking of the entire room. It is temporarily impossible to live where the gender is changed, because there are problems with walking around the room. In addition, replacing floors is often accompanied by replacing baseboards, and this, in turn, often leads to damage to the wall finishes - in short, replacing the floor covering is almost equal to a complete renovation of the entire room. That is why maximum attention is paid to the choice of floor coverings.
Every customer wants such repairs to last at least a decade, or even longer, fortunately, modern choice materials contribute to this. In addition to classic types of wood, modern designs are increasingly using various synthetic materials, and polymer self-leveling flooring has become a kind of fashion statement in recent years.
What it is?
A polymer floor is fundamentally different from other types of floor coverings because it is not laid, but poured. The material is made from various polymers and is sold in liquid form. To pour this type of floor, first make a full base of concrete screed or any other dense material, on top of which a thin layer of liquid polymer is poured. When it hardens after a certain time, it gives a perfectly smooth, and most importantly, even (due to the property of the liquid to form a uniform level) surface without the slightest joints.
Initially, this type of coating was used in public institutions with a huge turnover of people - for example, in airport lobbies. This application is due maximum ease of cleaning, caused by the integrity of the coating without any seams or joints, as well as the high strength of the material, which makes it possible not to close terminals and other premises of special public importance for long-term repairs.
However, private consumers quickly appreciated all the advantages of such a floor and began to be interested in the possibilities of pouring polymers on private property, and manufacturers promptly responded to the increasing demand and presented more affordable, but no less quality options for home and apartment.
Today, polymer self-leveling floors are available in any major city; they are successfully poured in rooms of any size and purpose.
At the same time, the main consumers are still industrial enterprises and public institutions, however, such coverage may also be appropriate for home use. Polymer floors are available in two main varieties, but if you consider the minor differences, you can count a huge number of different options, each of which has its own advantages and is optimally suited for a particular type of room.
Peculiarities
If for public institutions and industrial enterprises the use of such floors is almost a panacea for all ills, then not every owner still decides to use such a coating in an apartment. It is possible that important role the design aspect also plays a role in the selection process, after all, such a floor is not always able to create the necessary comfort or simply fit into the desired style, but still, before installation, you need to once again go over the advantages and disadvantages of this material in an ordinary home.
If you look at the advantages, they are very numerous and will make many people urgently interested in the prices of this product. Here are the main advantages of using this type of flooring at home:
- High elasticity ensures that the floor is practically not subject to any mechanical damage - it can easily survive even a small earthquake, because, if necessary, it can stretch and compress.
- Chemical resistance allows the floor covering not to change its appearance even under the influence of any aggressive chemicals, from detergents of any type to others accidentally spilled.
- The polymers underlying such a floor can continue the phrase “water wears away stone, but self-leveling flooring does not.” Moreover, due to the integrity of the seamless coating, it is also excellent waterproofing - even if there is a flood in the apartment, the neighbors below will not know about it.
- The polymer coating is non-flammable and therefore fully complies with fire safety standards.
- This type of floor is very easy to maintain, because it allows the use of any type of detergent, and also prevents dirt from getting into the seams, which simply do not exist.
- The service life of a high-quality polymer coating, even in conditions of the highest daily traffic, is no less than ten years, and in an apartment this is an almost eternal option.
- Many people fear that the high smoothness of the surface will result in slipperiness, but in fact this is not the case at all.
- Modern self-leveling floors and the technique of pouring them make it possible to achieve a very noticeable artistic effect.
All of the listed properties literally force you to immediately give them preference. However, there is not a single construction or finishing material, which would not have some disadvantages. Naturally, self-leveling floors also have them, and although there are not so many of them, they are serious enough to deter most potential clients:
- Truly high quality costs big money, and although in recent years developers have done everything possible to reduce the cost of the material, it is still more expensive than the vast majority of analogues. An attempt to save money, by the way, can be fraught, since the cheapest types of polymer-based floors, judging by reviews, fade quite quickly in bright sunlight.
- The high cost concerns not only the material itself, but also the work performed. Although the liquid used for pouring can level the level on its own, due to its high cost, special attention is usually paid to creating a perfectly level and balanced base. It is quite expensive, and also takes a lot of time, not to mention the fact that for a high-quality result you need confidence in the high professionalism and dedication of the workers.
- Polymer flooring is a very durable type of repair. It is durable and reliable so much that no one has yet come up with an adequate way to dismantle such a coating. Consequently, if the self-leveling floor gets tired, or, worse, wears out to the point of obvious need for replacement, a new coating will have to be done directly on top of it, which in the conditions of most standard old apartments that do not have very high ceilings will lead to a noticeable reduction in space. And if replacing one self-leveling floor with another, as is done in airports or industrial workshops, will take a maximum of a couple of millimeters, then replacing with parquet will take no less than a couple of centimeters, which can even force you to redo the doors. This is a significant disadvantage of such coverage.
- Pouring a polymer floor is a difficult task, since the material is very demanding in terms of hardening conditions. For a perfectly flat surface, it is necessary that the base humidity does not exceed 4%. The permissible temperature fluctuation in the room during hardening is two degrees in one direction or another.
In other words, normal filling is only possible in a sealed room and stable weather conditions.
Kinds
Self-leveling floors, also known as 3D, are now available in a wide variety of types, which helps to more accurately select the properties that are optimal in certain conditions. Although not all of them seem suitable for home use, some consideration must be given to each type to prove that a particular variety is not suitable for residential use.
Among the classic coatings that have been used for several decades, we know epoxy floors and floors made of polyurethane. These two varieties are found most often, and they are usually a striking example of how opposite the properties of different types of self-leveling polymer coating can be. The epoxy variety is famous for its highest resistance to any damage, both mechanical and chemical.
Even a slightly less shiny and attractive surface does not stop customers, forcing them to purchase such a coating for finishing industrial workshops and enterprises, laboratories, and other similar premises.
The polyurethane version is also amazingly resistant, but is still somewhat inferior in this component, but it looks a little more attractive, and most importantly, it is less likely to be rubbed off by feet. That is why it is actively used in offices and other public institutions with high traffic, and also looks more relevant at home.
Among other varieties it is worth highlighting methyl methacrylate and cement acrylic flooring, which are peculiar new analogues of epoxy and polyurethane. In general, today's self-leveling floors are made from the most unexpected materials. There is even a variety made from urea, which, by the way, is considered easy to install due to the method of application through spraying.
If we talk about reliability, it is usually not recommended to choose a polyester-based floor, since it is with this material that problems with quality and durability arise.
As for appearance, polymer floors are usually made colored with the addition of colored sand. As a result, such a coating can even resemble a wood-polymer floor in appearance, so the problem of fitting such an ultra-modern material into classic designs seems practically solved. Moreover, in some cases, you can also purchase a transparent composition - in this case, creating a base for a coating made of natural wood seems especially appropriate, although more often they are used simply to create the top protective layer of a self-leveling floor.
Thanks to this solution you can get everything best benefits polymer filling with an appearance using literally any decorative inserts from the most unexpected materials and components.
Which ones are better?
You should choose a self-leveling floor taking into account the purposes for which it will be used. Since we are generally talking about typical home conditions for our country, in terms of their operational and aesthetic qualities, polyurethane and cement-acrylic mixtures are most suitable for finishing. But polyester floor coverings should be used with great caution - reviews indicate that the quality of such material often leaves much to be desired.
Another thing is that even a private customer for his own needs can order the floor that is considered more oriented towards industrial needs. This need arises in a situation where the question of finishing the floor in a garage is open - there this surface experiences significant mechanical loads due to a passing or standing car, and at the same time some aggressive chemical compositions, including oils and much more.
Again, the use of all these substances does not contribute to the creation perfect cleanliness, therefore, the floor in such a room should be designed for maximum ease of cleaning and minimal contamination, and also have high chemical resistance. Therefore, materials based on epoxy resin or methyl methacrylate.
The base, which is almost always an ordinary concrete or cement strainer, does not put forward any special requirements for the type of flooring, but you can build on the appearance of the finished floor. It should be noted that the most commonly used options are those called "liquid linoleum", since when frozen they really resemble this finishing material.
To be honest, the imitation of any other types of finishing turns out to be very conditional and can hardly be called plausible, so the option with such “linoleum” should inspire the most confidence.
How to choose?
The choice of self-leveling floor components is quite complex, since the materials are numerous and varied. For example, for a concrete base, you should first select a reliable waterproofing material, cement M-200 or higher, and also prepare and lay the mixture itself so that its moisture content does not exceed 4%. In some cases, two-component floors are made, when the base is a wood-polymer composite, which looks very much like ordinary wood, and an ordinary colorless polymer floor is poured on top.
Although home conditions are unlikely to involve the same number of dangers and stresses as in industrial workshop, for use in an apartment, a combination of different types of polymer base is usually recommended. In the hallway, bathroom and kitchen - where it is noted increased amount dust and dirt, increased humidity, and also a high probability of spilling caustic or hot liquids, it is recommended to fill in epoxy compounds.
Very important for residential premises aesthetic appeal, and there are much fewer different strength tests expected here, so here the choice more often falls on decorative polyurethane floors.
At the same time, you should always choose antistatic mixtures with quartz sand in the composition, because the accumulation of small charges of electricity is not conducive to health, and it also attracts dust.
It must be said that Self-leveling flooring in the interior does not go well with any wall decoration, and this point also needs to be taken into account, because changing a flooded floor covering is very problematic. IN living rooms In combination with polyurethane on the floor, decorative putty on the walls looks best. Even the expensive ones will seem normal vinyl wallpapers, but here are the ordinary ones paper wallpaper, will most likely be inappropriate. For the kitchen in combination with epoxy floors either classic will do tile, or colored plaster, with which the self-leveling floor will be combined in the same way as the laminate, which is quite often imitated by it.
In some cases, private farm owners prefer to abandon classic materials even for exterior finishing and for the street they use not slabs, but a self-leveling self-leveling floor, which is well suited for filling garden paths. Here, methyl methacrylate will show itself in the best possible way, as it is unpretentious to temperature changes and hardens faster than its colleagues.
Thanks to this unusual solution paths in the garden will always look fresh and clean, their color will delight for a long time. In this case, you can use a small tile as a base.
Required Tools
In practice, pouring a self-leveling floor is not such a difficult process. It doesn't require any special equipment, so that's it more men consider it necessary to carry out this type of repair themselves. To complete the task, the master will need:
- A large container for preparing the mixture for pouring - usually a volume equal to at least two medium buckets is assumed.
- A drill and a special attachment for it, allowing you to mix any liquid mixtures. There is a catch here, since you don’t need any drill, but only one that allows you to regulate the speed, because too active mixing risks splashing the future floor onto the walls. Also, not just any attachment will work – it needs to mix the mass in the container right down to the very bottom.
- A set of spatulas adapted for applying the mixture both in the main part and in the most inaccessible places.
- A special needle roller, which is used to roll the future floor surface again after application. This is done in order to remove small air bubbles from the mass, which will certainly form during the pouring process. If they are not removed before the mass hardens, this will have an extremely negative impact on the strength and durability of the material and can lead to cracking even with minor mechanical impact.
- A chemical solvent needed to remove contaminants left behind by the pouring liquid from used instruments. There is no universal solvent suitable for all types of self-leveling floors, so it must be selected based on the instructions indicated on the can with the self-leveling floor mixture.
- Shoes with studded soles are an important part of the job because even during the pouring process, repairmen will have to walk on a freshly poured surface, and only studded soles can reduce exposure to the liquid material.
- Most experts also recommend purchasing several pairs of ordinary rubber gloves in advance, which will help protect the skin from exposure to all the components used in the process.
Preparation
The mixture, which in the future forms the floor, is applied to a previously prepared surface, which is most often concrete. Such a surface requires a minimum level of humidity and ideal horizontality, therefore, when laying a new screed, the process is performed in two steps - a semi-dry mass is applied as the first layer, and only on top of it is a thin leveling layer (within half a centimeter). Only after the floor is well high x, you can proceed to further actions.
In some cases, you can take an old concrete screed as a basis, but then it is first carefully cleaned of dust and any other contaminants, and any visible cracks are carefully sealed using a special epoxy compound.
In this case, by the way, you also cannot do without pouring an additional leveling screed.
Old wooden floors can also be used without dismantling. The first step in this case is to carefully inspect the floor, replace or repair any worn components, and strengthen their fastenings. If the floor has been painted, old paint must be deleted, any unevenness and cracks are filled with a special putty for wood. After the putty has dried, the surface of the old floor is carefully sanded to a state of perfect smoothness, after which the dust is removed from it using industrial vacuum cleaner, and the same leveling screed is poured on top.
After this, the surface is primed. The primer is selected depending on what type of self-leveling floor is selected - any conscientious manufacturer should indicate on the packaging how to choose the correct primer in this case. The primer is applied in two layers using a fine-pile roller, sometimes an ordinary paint brush. The second coat of primer is applied only after the first has completely dried.
In order to increase the efficiency of priming, it is recommended to add quartz sand to the primer.
Manufacturing technology
You can fill the self-leveling floor with your own hands, but provided that the instructions are carefully studied and will be followed to the last letter.
Filling with polymer occurs on average at a thickness of 1.5-3 millimeters, but this, of course, is only true if concrete screed was made with high quality and is truly horizontal. Material consumption per 1 m2 is calculated based on the fact that one liter of liquid mass is a square meter of surface covered with a layer of one millimeter. At the same time, the thickness of the layer may vary somewhat, because the liquid flows into any seams and holes, so you need to purchase poured floors with a reserve.
The first step in preparing the mixture is stirring, which must be done as thoroughly as possible until the mass is completely homogeneous. When the finishing composition is ready, application begins - the liquid is simply poured onto the floor and accelerated in all directions using a rule or any other similar tool. Air bubbles will probably form in the filled layer. – they must be removed using a specially prepared needle roller.
At this stage, you can move around the room only with the help of shoes with needle soles - the mass will fill the small holes left by such spikes, but the mark from ordinary shoes would probably remain as a long-lasting memory for the owner of the room.
When the composition begins to visually thicken, its spreading over the surface and rolling with a needle roller is stopped - it is time to aesthetically decorate the coating. IN modern design the installation of any foreign elements into the self-leveling floor is actively used, including small pebbles and shells, as well as coins and any other decorative elements, which, when hardened, are firmly “glued” into the material.
Such a prefabricated “pie” allows a person with creative approach turn a rather boring floor covering into a real work of art that you will never want to change, which will immediately solve the problem of the difficulty of replacing such a covering.
After the bottom layer of polymer with the decorations protruding from it has completely hardened, a second layer is applied - usually completely transparent. Its task is to cover protruding elements to create a smooth surface, so calculating the quantity Supplies must also take into account the size of “foreign” decorations. Moving on this layer must be even more careful because it is the immediate surface of the future floor.
Craftsmen, for their own needs, are allowed to move on the hardening outer layer already on the second day after its application, but when the pouring leaves the workers completely satisfied, they need to wait another week until the material has completely hardened. After this, he is ready for all those difficult tests that he was created to withstand.
Recently, the technology of applying polymer floor coverings has become increasingly popular. The second name of the technology is self-leveling floor. This partly explains the manufacturing technology. The finished composition is not mounted, but poured onto the prepared floor surface.
Polymer floors
Self-leveling polymer floors do not contain cement. This significantly speeds up the installation process. The polymer mixture consists of two, in some cases three phases.
The basis of the mixture is acrylic, polyester or epoxy. The most resistant to external damage are mixtures containing epoxy.
In addition to the main component, the mixture includes the following elements:
- hardener;
- granite chips or gravel;
- colored pigments.
Advantages of polymer coatings
Let's consider the main advantages of this type of coating:
- short polymerization period;
- high level of elasticity;
- resistance to low temperatures;
- high level of wear resistance;
- long service life;
- ease of use;
- safety for human health;
- aesthetic appearance;
- variety of textures and shades;
- possibility of installing three-dimensional coating.
Disadvantages of technology
Speaking about polymer floor coverings, one cannot help but note their inherent disadvantages:
- high cost of materials;
- installation complexity;
- high cost of installation work;
- when installing polymer coatings on a new foundation, it is necessary to wait at least 1 month before installation;
- vapor tightness;
- when installing the coating on a cement base, it is necessary to apply an additional layer waterproofing material. Otherwise, the coating may be damaged due to vapors penetrating through the concrete.
Peculiarities
Polymer flooring has the following characteristics:
- The absence of connecting seams ensures a high level of hygiene. The coating is easy to clean both wet and dry. Seamless technology prevents the spread of insects indoors. The material does not absorb moisture and retains its aesthetic appearance for a long period of time.
- High level of resistance to various chemicals. Alkaline and acidic solutions are not capable of destroying the finished coating.
- Lots of modifications. Any final surface appearance result can be achieved. The coating can be either smooth or rough.
- Diversity color range. Possibility of creating a unique coating design. 3D printing technology is also popular.
- High level of strength. Thanks to the polymers included in the mixture, it is possible to achieve strength equal to that of a concrete base.
- High level of elasticity. Thanks to this, the surface is not subject to external damage.
- The material does not support combustion.
- Durability. If you follow the basic rules of caring for the coating, you can achieve a long service life.
Main types of polymer coatings
Do-it-yourself polymer floors are applied using two main technologies:
- Thin coating. The thickness of the applied mixture does not exceed 0.35 mm. This technology is suitable for working in standard premises with an average level of load on the floor surface. The mixture can be used as a final coating or a layer under a waterproofing mixture.
- High filling coating. Its average thickness can reach 4 mm. This technology is intended for installing coatings in buildings with an increased level of floor load. It has a high level of durability and strength. Possible various options surface decoration using additional inclusions.
Installation work
To fully become familiar with how to make polymer floors, you need to study the main stages of work:
- Preparation of materials for work.
- Treatment of the base surface.
- Priming the floor.
- Finish coating.
Preparing materials for work
The work is carried out using metal tools. In order not to damage the polymer coating, it is recommended to pre-soak them in an acetone solution for 6 hours.
During installation, the roller must also be moistened in an acetone solution as often as possible. This will prevent polymerization of the remaining mixture on the roller.
Note! The work is performed only with dry tools. It is unacceptable to use contaminated ones.
To install the self-leveling floor you will need the following tools:
- plastic roller;
- bucket;
- painting spatula;
- rule;
- shoes with specialized soles;
- mixer;
- squeegee – adjusts the level of coating thickness;
- personal protective equipment - work with toxic materials. Therefore, during installation, be sure to use protective gloves and a respiratory mask;
- vacuum cleaner.
Substrate surface treatment
Before you begin, you must first prepare the base of the floor. It must be level and free from chips and cracks.
The polymer coating can be applied to any type of substrate. However, before applying it, it is imperative to prepare the surface for work.
First of all, you should check the evenness of the coating. To do this you need to use a level.
Note! Deviations from the level should not exceed 4 mm.
Treatment features depend on the type of floor surface.
- Work with wooden base. Cleaning the surface, checking the humidity. Skirting boards, paint and stains must be removed. The surface should be sanded. Dust and dirt are removed using a vacuum cleaner. To prevent damage polymer surface, it is necessary to apply a layer of screed to the wooden surface. It will prevent damage from natural deformations wooden surface due to temperature difference. It is not recommended to pour the filling mixture in a layer that is too thin.
- Work with concrete surface. The floor should be leveled, cleaned of dust, paint and dirt, then additional sanding of the surface should be carried out. If the base is severely damaged, it is recommended to apply a new one on top. In this case, the polymer mixture is applied 3 weeks after the installation of the new screed is completed.
- Work with ceramic surface. It is necessary to check the strength of the coating. To do this, each tile is tapped. If the resulting sound is ringing, the tile should be removed. The place must be primed and covered with a layer of putty. Then the surface is degreased and primed.
- Work with metal surface. Cleaning the base. Removing paint, grease and oil stains. Degreasing. Removing traces of corrosion and rust by sanding.
Floor priming
Before applying the polymer mixture, the floor surface is primed. The base must be dry and free of dust. Priming is carried out 2 hours after the dust removal procedure.
The primer is carried out using a special mixture - impregnation. It is applied to the base using a roller. The primer will improve the adhesion of the polymer mixture to the floor surface. Impregnation is applied in one layer when working with a metal base, in 2-3 layers when working with other types of bases. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has polymerized.
Putty
After the floor surface has been primed, it is necessary to give it evenness using putty. In this case, existing cracks and irregularities will be corrected.
It is necessary to start applying the polymer solution at least 24 hours after priming the surface.
Work should begin from the farthest corner of the room, gradually moving towards front door. To ensure that there is no residual air in the applied solution, it should be treated with a needle roller.
The mixture is applied in strips. For ease of application, you can use a special hose. The liquid is leveled using a squeegee. Next, you need to compact the layer using a special roller. Work is performed in shoes with metal studded soles.
Finish coating
After the base layer of the mixture has been applied, you should begin treating the surface with the finishing layer.
The finishing treatment is carried out 48 hours after pouring the polymer solution. Can be used as a finishing mixture polyurethane varnish. It improves the quality of the polymer mixture and adds shine to the floor surface.
Applying a finishing coating will significantly extend the service life of the self-leveling floor. The varnish should be applied in at least two layers. After applying each of them, you must allow at least one hour to dry.
Note! The self-leveling floor is ready for use no earlier than two days after the finishing coating has dried. If an increased level of load on the floor surface is envisaged, the polymerization period must be increased to one week.
Planning independent arrangement polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done as efficiently as possible so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors; the procedure is complex and labor-intensive.
Coating features
Self-leveling polymer flooring is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by enhanced decorative properties.
The thickness of the fill in this case ranges between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is not advisable to make the layer thicker, since this will significantly increase costs, but the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Areas of application: residential and public buildings.
| Types of self-leveling floors | Characteristics of self-leveling floors | Application |
|---|---|---|
| Thin-layer floors | thickness 250-300 microns | Thin-layer coatings are used for industrial floors subjected to medium mechanical loads, protecting concrete floors from aggressive environments and dust, giving a decorative appearance |
| thickness up to 4-5 mm, sand filling by weight up to 50% | Self-leveling self-leveling floors are used in rooms with medium and high mechanical loads, where special, increased requirements are placed on the floors. Such floors have smooth surface(glossy or matte) with dirt-repellent properties, decorative, hygienic, easy to maintain, repairable | |
| Highly filled floors | thickness - 4-8 mm, sand filling by weight - up to 85% | Highly filled floors are used in conditions with high humidity and extreme temperature conditions. Such floors are characterized by particularly high resistance to impact loads and wear resistance. Their properties are close to polymer concrete. |
| Self-leveling colorless epoxy composition | Density 1.10. The A:B ratio is 100:60. Lifetime 35 min Dry residue 100%. |
A two-component, clear, solvent-free epoxy system for high-performance decorative topcoats. |
| Universal epoxy filler | Density 1.50. The A:B ratio is 100:10. Life time 25 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%. |
Two-component colored epoxy composition for leveling and finishing polymer coatings on concrete, both under other ESP® coatings and as a stand-alone coating. |
| Conductive epoxy filler | Density 1.65. A:B ratio -100:10. Life time 20 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%. |
Installation of conductive protective coatings on concrete bases in warehouses, production, installation and other premises with requirements for conductivity. |
| Polyurethane floor | Density 1.45. The A:B ratio is 100:20. Life time 30 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%. |
These coatings, which are based on a heterochain polymer, are classified as rigid-elastic, that is, with high mechanical strength they have a sufficient elasticity resource. They install polyurethane floor coverings in a wide variety of premises - production and industrial, residential and public, children's and educational institutions, in parking lots and in freezers, etc. In terms of layer thickness, polyurethane flooring can be thin-layer (up to 1 mm), self-leveling or quartz-filled, which has increased resistance to abrasion and impact loads. The polyurethane coating can be given various special properties (antistatic, anti-slip). |
Other advantages of polymer floors include:
- wear resistance;
- dustlessness;
- immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
- wide range of colors - the coating can be either colored or transparent;
- no odor during installation;
- possibility of applying 3D drawings.
Note! The quasi-three-dimensional image is made possible thanks to the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, the finishing coating is applied (more on this at the end of the article).
Due to their high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create complete compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances; let’s consider them in more detail.
Stage 1. Preparation
The installation of a self-leveling polymer floor begins with preparatory work.
Wooden base
Step 1. First, the room is cleared of debris and dust, furniture is removed, and decorative elements (such as baseboards, cornices) are dismantled.
Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove small debris, and a grinder to remove glue and remnants of the old coating. By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.
Step 3. What follows preliminary preparation grounds. In this case, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, wood, then the base should be pre-sanded, all cracks should be filled with putty, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer to wooden planks. For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.
If there are no difficulties in disposing of solvent residues, you can add a surfactant or KM alkali solution. Although today you can buy special means for degreasing wood (for example, Mellerud), which at the same time protect the surface from fungal formation.
Step 4. Floor moisture is assessed using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise polymer filling will come out of poor quality.
A concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.
Step 1. The moisture content of the concrete is assessed; if it is above 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed on the floor and pressed firmly, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.
Moisture meter for concrete floor
Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, a chisel mounted perpendicular to the surface is struck with a hammer. If the concrete did not crumble, and the chisel left barely noticeable marks, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.
Step 3. Check for waterproofing. If it is not there, then further work to create a self-leveling floor is impossible, because the concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in the bathroom or kitchen.
Moreover, if the insulation is of poor quality, moisture will rise through the capillaries into concrete covering to the polymer layer and sooner or later will destroy it.
Note! Otherwise, the preparatory measures for a concrete base are practically no different from those for a wooden base.
If a polymer floor is to be poured onto a tile, its voids are first checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive has dried). All components that have come loose from the surface must be removed, and the resulting voids must be filled with putty.
After this, the surface is degreased.
Stage 2. Level difference
This concept is used to denote the difference in height between the highest and lowest points of the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer the floor is filled with a mounting leveling mixture (sand and polymer self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1:2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.
If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then the surface will need to be filled with a corrective mixture (sand and cement in a ratio of 2:1).
Note! In both cases, instead of building mixtures You can use a special leveling solution designed for this thickness.
Stage 3. Materials and tools
After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything necessary. To work you will need:
- polymer leveling mixture;
- deep penetration primer mixture;
- putty knife;
- building level;
- squeegee;
- electric drill with mixer attachment;
- needle roller;
- container for preparing the solution.
Stage 4. Primer
It is better to use a roller to apply the primer layer. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to allow the mixture to dry.
Here are the main functions of priming:
- improved spreading of the polymer composition;
- improved adhesion to the base;
- preventing the appearance of air bubbles.
If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied before each of them.
Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof compound.
You also need to remember that primers are toxic, so you should take care of them in advance. high-quality ventilation premises. Moreover, the temperature must not be allowed to drop - if it drops below +15? C, the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.
A minimum of 24 hours is required for the primed surface to dry completely.
Stage 5. Thermal compensation
One of essential elements filler floor - a thermal expansion joint that should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. For this purpose they take wooden slats(necessarily from hardwood). These seams will prevent the floor from deforming during significant temperature changes.
Stage 6. Preparation of the solution
The preparation of the solution must be taken very seriously, since poor quality of pouring will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is typical that after preparation the solution must be poured out as quickly as possible, because it hardens within a few minutes.
Note! The humidity in the room when pouring should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.
All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid heating the solution too quickly, the container can be placed in another bigger size filled with cold water.
All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speeds (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:
- a small ring is cut out of a deodorant cap and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
- the ring is filled with solution and raised;
- When the solution spreads evenly into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can begin pouring.
Note! If the mixture turns out to be too thick, then it will not be able to level out properly, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.
Stage 7. Pouring the polymer floor
Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as conventional self-leveling floors.
Step 1. The first portion of the solution is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the solution is leveled with a spatula.
Note! The entire room is flooded at once, otherwise there will be differences.
Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller - this is necessary to remove air.
Step 3. After this, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is flooded.
Step 4. After 48 hours of pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. During the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.
Note! If a “warm floor” is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In this case, you need to start with room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3? C per day.
Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself poured floor.
There are two ways to create a decorative layer:
- place the finished image in advance;
- make a drawing on the coating.
In the first case you will need acrylic paints resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It's more simple and cheap way, because today you can purchase the image you like as a printout on a plotter (in this case, banner fabric is used as the basis). During installation, the fabric is covered with a thermally insulating vinyl film to increase its service life.
The dimensions of the image should exceed the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to re-glue it.
Video - 3D floors
The technology for creating a 3D image is as follows.
Step 1. First, the base is thoroughly primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take a day for the primer layer to polymerize.
Step 2. The image is pasted onto the primer and rolled with a dry, clean roller. It is typical that you can only move on the floor in special studded shoes.
Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This happens in the same way as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries and can be treated with clear varnish.
The complete readiness of the polymer floor for use is determined by the drying of the varnish.
Video - Pouring polymer floors
