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How to paint a bathtub with enamel with your own hands: the second method of restoration. How and with what you can paint a cast-iron bathtub: a review of the best restoration methods How to paint an old cast-iron bathtub with your own hands

They are afraid of one thing - damage to the enamel. How to paint cast iron bath and what is the best way to do this if you have damaged its internal coating? In this article you will find 3 possible options with step-by-step instructions and all their pros and cons, as well as a description of the “bath to bath” method.

When is it necessary to paint a cast iron bathtub?

Painting a cast iron bathtub is needed in two cases:

1. The enamel is mechanically damaged and cracks appear along it.
2. The enamel has turned yellow over time or due to improper use (exposure to toxic household chemicals or other reagents), too active cleaning during washing.

Restoration options for a cast iron bathtub

A cast iron bathtub can be restored in 4 ways:

1. Paint it.
2. Coat with epoxy enamel.
3. Cover with acrylic.
4. Bath to bath.

We will consider all these methods in more detail below.

Painting a cast iron bathtub

The most logical method of restoration seems to the average person to be painting the bathroom.

The advantages of this method:

• the cheapest;
• quite simple;
• can be painted any color.

• smell;
• dents and chips on the surface of the bathtub will still be noticeable;
• will last from 10 months to a couple of years if you use quality paint and apply it correctly.

Paint selection

Not just any paint is suitable for restoring a bathroom by painting, as there will be permanent contacts with water, temperature changes and mechanical friction of the surface. You will need special paint and you can find it among the following manufacturers:

• Dulux (UK) is a leader among manufacturers paint coatings. To paint the bathtub, you should stop at “DuluxRealifeKitchen&Bathroom”;
• Tikkurila (Finland) is a paint manufacturer known for its quality. For the bathroom, take the Luja painting system (primer + paint);
• Jobi (Germany) – good quality By affordable price. For bathroom painting, stop by JobiWaschFest. This paint is moisture-resistant and is intended for rooms with special conditions, which definitely include the bathroom.

You can, of course, paint it regular paint, but such a coating will last at most one or two weeks. It’s unlikely that you expect such a short-term effect from the restoration, so it’s better not to skimp on paint and buy high-quality paint right away.

Required Tools

To paint the bath you will need:

• roller or brush made of natural bristles 70-90 mm wide. If you prepare two, it will be even more convenient, since if during the painting process the brush gets dirty (especially with something greasy), then you cannot continue working with it;
• drill with sanding attachment;
• a paint knife and tweezers - for caring for the brush when bristles come out of it (this is quite normal for a new one);
• acetone or solvent No. 646. Do not use others!;
• rags made of cotton, calico, flannel or microfiber cloths. The main thing is that there is no lint.

Dyeing process

The dyeing process can be divided into 3 stages:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Direct coloring.
3. Paint drying.

Preparing for coloring

Preparatory work for bathtub restoration involves removing dirt from the surface. This is best done using alkaline household chemicals. After using it, the bath should be rinsed well and wiped dry.

Alkaline household chemicals It burns the skin, so you should wear rubber gloves when handling it.

Next, degreasing is carried out with a special chemical composition. You can take a car. Alternatively, you can use regular Fairy dishwashing liquid, but you will need to leave it on the surface of the bath for a while (20-30 minutes) before rinsing. The procedure will need to be repeated 2-3 times.

You can check whether you have degreased it well using a stream of water. If, when watering the walls from the shower, you do not see any drops or streaks, then the fight against grease on the surface can be considered complete.

On this preparatory work don't end. You need to remove the layer of enamel or paint that currently covers your bathtub. This is done using an electric drill with a special grinding attachment. You can remove all the enamel or just the top layer - your choice.

Before applying paint to the surface, it must be cleaned of dust and dried. Drying can be done with a hairdryer or by waiting - the bath will dry itself in a few hours. After this, a primer is applied. It can be applied using a brush, roller or flexible spatula.

Painting a cast iron bathtub

The process of painting the bathtub should begin after the primer has completely dried. First you should paint the sides. The paint is applied in a thick layer and gradually flows down the sides. The sides of the bathtub are painted in the same way, but taking into account the paint already on its surface. Try to keep the layer as even as possible after dripping. Painting the bottom of the bathtub involves distributing the paint that has drained from the top.

The entire coloring process will take you quite a lot of time and effort, so start it at a time when you are most productive.

You can paint the bathroom using a roller - it will be faster and more convenient.

After painting, the bathroom must be closed for 10-12 hours, or better yet, for a day. This is necessary to avoid dust getting on the painted and still wet surface. The final drying process of the paint takes 2-5 days. It is highly undesirable to use the bathroom until this moment.

Restoring a bathtub using epoxy enamel

Most old way restoration of cast iron bathtubs is the application new enamel. It has been widely used for more than 20 years. The process of applying enamel is somewhat reminiscent of the painting we discussed, but the composition is completely different. There are only 2 categories of compositions: professional and for self-restoration.

Professional epoxy enamel compositions are more liquid. They are applied in several layers, so the process turns out to be quite long and labor-intensive. Self-applied formulations are thicker and easier to work with.

Bath enamel, which comes in aerosol cans, is easy to apply but will last a maximum of a year.

Advantages of restoring bathtubs using epoxy enamel:

• quite a cheap way;
• no need to dismantle the bathroom;
• suitable not only for cast iron, but also for steel baths.

Disadvantages of this method:

• takes a long time to dry (up to a week);
• long and labor-intensive process;
• bad smell;
• the coating is very sensitive to shock;
• the service life of new enamel rarely exceeds 5 years;
• does not cover dents and chips;
• Even if everything is fine with the enamel and you haven’t damaged it in any way, in a few years it will turn yellow.

Tools for restoring a bathtub with enamel

To restore a bathtub using epoxy enamel you will need:

• a spray gun or roller if professional enamel is used, or a flute brush if the enamel is for self-application;
• a paint knife and tweezers will be needed to carefully remove stray brush hairs;

Enameling process

The process of applying enamel to the surface of the bathroom can be divided into the following stages:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Direct application of enamel.
3. Drying.

Preparatory work

The preparatory work is the same as when painting a bathroom, so we will not repeat it. You can read above.

Applying enamel

Before application, the enamel should be prepared according to the instructions on the package. There is no need to mix the entire composition at once, do it in portions, as it begins to set quite quickly (40-45 minutes), and application in 2 layers takes quite a long time.

If you apply a professional composition, then you can use a spray gun. But for home application, it is better to choose special mixtures that are thicker and suitable for application with a regular flute brush.

To apply enamel to the surface of the bathtub, wet the brush generously and draw a vertical stripe from the bottom to the edge. Then you should rub the enamel on the sides as hard as you can. The next strip should be drawn side by side so that its “rubbing” is enough to reach the already treated area and by repeated rubbing you will cover about half of the previous strip. So, overlapping, the first layer is applied. Wait 15-20 minutes and apply the next one.

The second layer is applied from the same place as the first. The direction of application must correspond exactly to the first layer. This is the only way the coating will turn out beautiful and uniform.

How to remove streaks and sagging enamel during application?

When applying enamel to the walls of the bathroom, drips and sagging of the material often form. Their occurrence should be controlled. They usually become noticeable within 10-15 minutes after application, so keep an eye on the areas covered as you work.

To remove streaks, you need to make a brush stroke without material up to the place of smearing. Sagging that forms on the edges of the drain holes must be removed after the enamel has hardened. To do this, use a painting or mounting knife.

When is the bathtub ready for use?

After applying the enamel, it is necessary to close the bathroom for 3-7 days until the new coating dries completely. The longer you pause before first use, the less chance that the enamel will peel off.

Restoring a bathtub using acrylic

One of the most modern methods to restore bathtub enamel - restoration with acrylic. You can find it on sale under the name “Stakryl”.

Advantages of the method:

• at correct application and with careful use, such a coating can serve you for 10 years or more;
• a professional does this work in 2-3 hours. You will need more time, but the process itself is simpler than applying enamel;
• attractive appearance– after application and drying you will see a smooth glossy finish;
• no unpleasant odor.

Disadvantages of the method:

• if you scratch the acrylic layer to the bottom in some place, it will very quickly begin to collapse and lag behind the surface;
• the cost is higher than with enamel coating;
• Drying takes 2-3 days.

Tools for bathtub restoration with acrylic

To restore a bathtub using acrylic you will need:

• flute brush or roller;
• flexible spatula;
• a paint knife and tweezers for carefully removing stray brush hairs;
• drill with grinding attachment.

Acrylic application process

The process of applying acrylic can be divided into 3 stages:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Direct application of acrylic.
3. Drying acrylic.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work is similar to the methods described above. Read more about this in the section on painting with paint.

Applying enamel

Acrylic is more liquid than enamel for home application, so it is most convenient to apply it using the pouring method in a tapering spiral from the edges of the bathtub to the drain. Be very careful! Unfilled fragments can be filled with material using a flexible spatula. With its help, the edges of the bathtub and its bottom are leveled.

If during the application process bubbles appear that do not burst on their own, then they must be carefully broken through with a brush.

The second method of applying acrylic is similar to painting. For application, use a brush or roller.

When is the bathtub ready for use?

After applying acrylic, it is necessary to close the bathroom for 2-3 days so that dust and other dirt do not get on the surface before drying.

Restoration “bath within a bath”

The bath-to-bath restoration method involves installing a new acrylic liner inside an old cast-iron bathtub that completely matches its shape.

Advantages of the method:

• perfectly smooth coating;
• durable acrylic;
• service life – about 15 years;
• no unpleasant odor;
• can be used already on the first day after installation;
• the surface will not turn yellow.

Disadvantages of the method:

• high price. Especially if your bath non-standard sizes and it will be required custom production liner;
• impossible to do on your own;
• the mounting foam with which the insert is attached may move and then cracks will appear;
• the liner may peel off and an unpleasant musty odor may appear due to the constant formation of condensation between the liner and the bathtub;
• it will not be possible to do repeated restoration or repair;
• During installation you will have to dismantle a part wall covering at the edges of the bath.

1. To clean the bathtub during the preparation stage, do not use chlorine compounds.
2. It is better to paint the bathtub and enamel it in warm time year, so that it is possible to ventilate the apartment or house.
3. Before applying paint, primer, enamel or acrylic, you must remove the cuffs and seal the hole with masking tape.
4. During the painting process, do not touch the bristles of the brush with your hands. The paint will come off faster from any fat in the future. Better stock up on several brushes for work.
5. Never touch the bathtub with your hands while applying paint, enamel or acrylic!
6. After restoring a bathtub using enamel or acrylic, it is necessary to replace the cuffs and gaskets, as the drain holes will become narrower and the walls of the bathtub will become thicker.
7. To make your bathtub with acrylic coating last longer, apply 2 layers of material. Then it will be more difficult to scratch it through.
8. The acrylic liner can only be installed in high-quality cast iron bathtubs. It is not suitable for bathtubs made of “light cast iron” with thin walls.

Whether it is worth restoring the bathtub and how exactly to do it is decided by the owner of the bathroom and the plumbing item. Of course, no restoration lasts forever, but if you don’t have the money to buy a new one, but you want to take hygiene procedures in comfort, then you should definitely do it!

Each product has its own service life, which sooner or later ends. Any thing becomes unusable at some point, and cast iron bathtubs are no exception. Time and water have their effect on her Negative influence and lead to destruction of the enamel coating.

Agree, changing a bathtub is expensive and labor-intensive. More practical solution– restore the plumbing yourself.

We will tell you how and with what you can paint a cast-iron bathtub, give recommendations on choosing a method, and also give step by step instructions for product updates.

The enamel coating of the bathtub becomes thinner over time, rust appears on it under the influence of water, and if measures are not taken in time, the process may become irreversible. The bottom may simply rust to holes, and then the bathtub will no longer be able to be saved.

Bathtub covered with rust and limescale, looks, to put it mildly, not aesthetically pleasing. Without a doubt, put new bath will be the only correct decision if you plan to do major renovation, change tiles and plumbing. However, if repairs are still far away, then purchasing new bath will bring more problems than joy.

Modern cast iron bathtubs are not cheap, and you will also have to pay a considerable amount for delivery. Due to the large weight of the product, it is unlikely that you will be able to dismantle the old one yourself. You need to either ask friends and neighbors, or hire people, which again costs money.

Most likely, you will have to make repairs, even if they were not planned.

Image gallery

If there are chips and cracks on the surface, they must be puttied and then treated with sandpaper, after which the resulting dust must be removed again. At this point the preparation process is complete, you can start painting.

Restoring a bathtub using enamel

Enameling a cast iron bathtub is an old time-tested method that has been used for a very long time. But one should distinguish between professional enameling, which the bath undergoes during the production process, and home painting with enamel.

In the first case, professional compositions are used that require preheating cast iron to a certain temperature. It is impossible to paint a cast-iron bathtub at home in this way, and it is not necessary, since today there are easy-to-use and inexpensive enamel dyes for self-application.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

Among the advantages of this painting method are:

• inexpensive cost;
• lack of installation work;
• Can be used on both cast iron and steel surfaces.

However, this method also has disadvantages:

• the coating turns out to be quite thin and fragile, the enamel is very sensitive to household cleaning products and impacts. Therefore, you will have to handle the bathtub very carefully so as not to inadvertently damage it;
• the coating does not eliminate severe defects: chips, dents, cracks;
• over time, yellowness forms on the surface;
• The enamel takes a long time to dry, so you can’t use the bathtub for about a week.

The service life of the coating ranges from 5 to 9 years. Although for those who are planning to make repairs in the future and replace the cast-iron bathtub with a new one, such a service life will certainly suit them.

What kind of paint should be used for a cast iron bathtub? How is it applied? Is it required preliminary preparation surfaces? Let's try to sort out these nuances.

In the photo - Tikkurila Reaflex, epoxy enamel for restoration of plumbing.

Why is this necessary?

But, in fact, why might you need to paint a cast-iron bathtub yourself?

There are two main motives.

1. Wear of the old enamel coating. On the list possible reasons— chips as a result of falling into the bathtub heavy objects, chemical destruction of enamel with alkaline and acidic drugs and constant use of rough abrasive cleaners. One way or another, after 20-40 years of use, the appearance of the bath leaves much to be desired.
2. Changes in bathroom design. For example, a bath of color sea ​​wave It matches exceptionally poorly with pink tiles. In addition, unpainted outside surface The bathtub is also not pleasing to the eye: the obvious solution is to bring it into harmony with the design of the rest of the room.

However: in most cases, a healthier solution is to use a decorative screen. Among other advantages, it will allow you to occupy the space under the bathroom for storage of washing powders and detergents.

Why not just replace the bathtub with a new one?

• The cost of a cast iron bathtub is not comparable to the cost of restoring the enamel coating.
• The weight and dimensions of the product make its transportation and installation... tedious, to put it mildly.
• Finally, tiles laid with overlapping edges mean that replacing the bathtub will entail a global renovation of the room, which is not always desirable.

Paint selection

Outside surface

How can you paint a cast-iron bathtub yourself, if we are not talking about the enamel coating, but about its outer surface?

Oh, we don't have to reinvent the wheel. Penolphthalein-based alkyd enamel PF-115 is quite suitable for our purposes. It can be applied directly to a cleaned and degreased surface; however, the coating will be more durable if it is laid on a layer of alkyd primer.

Related articles:

Inner surface

How to paint the inside of a cast iron bathtub?

The solutions available on the market can be divided into two main categories.

1. Multicomponent enamels based on epoxy resins provide an exceptionally durable and wear-resistant coating. Leave a scratch on it - a big problem; however, enamels are quite toxic and require certain skills when applied.
2. Acrylic self-leveling enamels It’s much easier to apply: they spread on their own over the surface in a layer constant thickness. The coating obtained after the composition has hardened quite predictably resembles the surface acrylic bathtub: the compositions are almost identical to each other.

What paint to paint a cast-iron bathtub is up to the owner to decide; However, we note once again that a novice performing a bathtub restoration for the first time will have acrylic coating it turns out much more uniform.

Technology

Outside surface

How to paint the outside of a cast iron bathtub?

The instructions are quite standard for painting metal with alkyd enamel.

1. The surface is cleaned of all kinds of contaminants using any abrasive cleaning agent. It is worth using an abrasive because it will help remove dried-on dirt.
2. The bath is degreased with gasoline or acetone.
3. The primer layer is applied with a brush. Drying it takes from 6 to 24 hours depending on the room temperature.
4. Then the enamel itself is applied with a brush, in two layers with intermediate drying. When applying the second layer, the brush moves perpendicular to the stripes left from the first. If necessary, the paint is diluted with solvent or white spirit: excessive thickness will force you to apply too much thick layer and guarantees drips.

Nuance: colors of many domestic producers Instead of the stated days, it takes three to four days to dry. You can speed up drying by installing a fan to blow over the surface.

Preparation of the internal surface

To ensure reliable adhesion of the enamel to the inner surface of the bathtub, we must make its coating rough.

How to achieve this?

1. Grinding. A drill, grinder with a wire brush or coarse sandpaper will help achieve the desired enamel condition in about a couple of hours.
2. Etching. Dry oxalic acid is diluted with a small amount of water and applied to the entire inner surface. Every 15 minutes, the drying bath is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. After an hour, the acid is completely washed off.

In addition, a number of additional measures will be required.

• The harness is dismantled. A tube rolled up from thick cardboard is inserted into the outlet hole: it will prevent paint from leaking onto the floor.

Hint: old steel strapping pre-annealed blowtorch or gas burner. Of course, it is not the bathtub that needs to be heated, but the massive cast-iron nut and the siphon bell underneath it. Sometimes soaking with kerosene helps to unscrew rusty threads.

• The surface is degreased.

Epoxy enamel

How to paint a bathtub - cast iron or steel - with epoxy enamel?

1. The composition is mixed with the hardener in portions sufficient to apply one layer.
2. The first layer is applied with a wide brush (a quality brush that does not lose lint during the painting process). The enamel is rubbed over the surface as evenly as possible.
3. The second layer is applied across the first after 15-20 minutes. The total number of coating layers can be up to four; the criterion of readiness is the complete absence of gaps. The main problem during application is to avoid drips.

Even if you once purchased an expensive and quality bath, after many years, she ceases to be as attractive as initially. It is necessary to renew it inside, since enamel tends to become thinner, resulting in chips, yellow stains and other phenomena. If such troubles happen to your bathroom, painting it yourself can help. In this article you will find the answer to a frequently asked question - how to paint the inside of a bathtub, and you will also learn how to prepare and apply paint to its surface and pipes correctly.

In order not to replace the old bathtub at home with a new one, which is associated with financial costs and the need to dismantle the plumbing, you can update the bathtub yourself.

For products made of cast iron, metal or tin, enamel spray is used. After purchasing it and preparing tools such as sandpaper, mask, napkins from natural material, sponges, construction tape, as well as primers, enamel, degreaser (acetone or other), rubber gloves, singing agents and protective film, you can paint the bathtub with enamel. To enjoy an excellent result, you should not save on purchasing paint, since it is better to make a high-quality restoration once.

Professionals advise painting the bathtub yourself with enamel made with epoxy. It comes in a convenient aerosol form. Allows you to obtain a durable, wear-resistant coating at home. But remember that enamel is toxic. Painting a bathtub with enamel may be challenging task for newbies.

You can also paint your bathroom at home with acrylic. It is recommended to mix it with hardener and use immediately. You can get rid of smudges during work using sponges or pieces. natural fabric. Even a non-professional can apply acrylic self-leveling enamels. They tend to spread over the surface in an even layer. The self-made coating will have the same thickness and resemble the coating of an acrylic bathtub. Painting a bathtub with acrylic – perfect solution For stylish interior bathroom

Experts advise using three-component formulations that are mixed before painting. Modern manufacturers of such products are Tikkurila, Jobi, Dulux. Such compositions contain a primer with moisture-proofing characteristics and, for example, a semi-matte coating.

Paint at home old bath You can’t use oil, alkyd, aerosol composition, auto enamel or nitro paint - this is not only harmful to health, but also useless from the point of view of restoring the coating.

As for painting pipes in the bathroom, it is carried out if they have rust or the design of the room needs to be changed. Modern pipes are made of stainless alloys, non-ferrous metals, and plastic. In old-style houses there are long-term pipes made of ferrous metal - cast iron and steel.

From the surface metal pipes deleted beforehand old paint and rust, wash them. Then it is primed to achieve better adhesion of the paint to the metal base. For hot pipes, you will need heat-resistant paints (marked as paints for heating radiators). Before painting cold pipes, you should make sure there is no condensation. There is no need to paint galvanized surfaces, with the exception of threads or welds where coating irregularities are found. For metal surface Paints and primers containing organic solvents are suitable.

Plastic or polymer pipes can be painted only at the request of the owner, who plans to change the interior. Usually they do not need painting, being initially white, gray, beige or green. If necessary, they are treated with non-aggressive acetone-free compounds.

Modern innovations make it possible to choose formulations that successfully combine paint and primer. But many professionals prefer to use primer and paint separately, since each composition has its own purpose.

The most popular compositions today:

• alkyd enamel, which perfectly resists temperature fluctuations and has high stability;
• water-dispersion paint – dries quickly, has no unpleasant odor, and is environmentally friendly;
• acrylic enamel – is durable and gives the surface an aesthetic appearance.

Surface preparation

Before applying paint yourself, you should get rid of the lime and grease in the bathroom. Cleaning products will help. You should avoid those that contain chlorine. To check whether the grease has been removed properly, check to see if there are any drops of water on the surface when wetting.

Next you need to remove the gloss, aka upper layer enamels. To do this, you can use a metal brush, sandpaper or electric drill with a special abrasive attachment. When performing work, you should protect your eyes and respiratory organs, try to avoid drafts, as there will be a lot of dust. The quality of painting directly depends on the surface; after cleaning, it should be as smooth as possible.

Use a vacuum cleaner or hairdryer to thoroughly dry the bathroom. She's being filled hot water and leave for 20 minutes, after which they wipe dry and prime.

All preparatory work is designed to facilitate subsequent do-it-yourself painting and obtain a renewed coating.

Dyeing technique

The stages of bathroom renovation at home include:

• degreasing;
• removal of existing coating;
• cleaning of enamel residues;
• drying the interior;
• coloring.

Before applying paint with your own hands, be sure to close the windows and doors. For application, you can use a flat brush with natural bristles or a spray gun.

The coloring composition should be diluted according to the instructions and applied to the surface of the bathroom. For the first layer you need to take half the total volume of paint. After applying the first layer in the direction from the edge to the bottom and drying it, make a second layer. The surface usually dries in about a day. At this time, windows and doors should not be opened to avoid debris from entering. To ensure that the coating adheres well and the paint dries completely, you should refrain from bathing in the bathroom for a week.

To complete the transformation of an old bathtub, you can also replace the existing legs with more modern ones. This is not a mandatory point, but is decided individually by the owner.

When painting with acrylic composition there are some nuances. It is permissible to make the container for the hardener into a paint sprayer. It is recommended to begin application by moving from the upper far sides in a circle to the near edge. It is necessary to control the uniformity of filling. All parts of the bathroom should be completely covered. To avoid problems with the bottom edge and the distribution of layers when pouring the acrylic composition, the sieve should be removed from the plug. Instead, you need to place a cardboard tube so that it rises 10 cm above the surface. To prevent defects on the surface from being visible after applying acrylic, if they are found, it is better to repair the defects with putty.

During the restoration process, there should be no objects nearby that interfere with the painstaking work. It is better to put the tap and shower in the washbasin in advance so that moisture does not get into the bath.

No matter how careful the bathtub is handled, after a certain period of time the enamel coating still begins to acquire a yellowish tint, and microcracks or chips form. Rust stains often appear, which strongly eat into the enamel and cannot be cleaned. To give the old coating a beautiful appearance, you can paint the bathtub with enamel at home.

Before painting an enamel bathtub, you need to know about the pros and cons different types paints and find out which one can do it. Such information will allow you to choose the right composition and get a high-quality result. There are the following types of enamels for painting bathtubs:

• epoxy;
• aerosol;
• acrylic;
• alkyd.

Epoxy enamel is made on the basis epoxy resin, fillers and hardeners. She has high performance hardness and adhesion to dissimilar surfaces. This coating has a glossy surface that is resistant to aggressive chemical compounds. This type of paint is suitable for both cast iron and steel bathtubs. Compositions for professional and DIY restoration are available for sale. The disadvantages of this coating include:

• long drying time (up to 7 days);
• toxicity;
• high sensitivity to shock;
• short service life;
• inability to disguise chips and dents;
• appearance of yellowness after 2-3 years of operation.

Aerosol enamel has good adhesion. Available in spray cans that simplify the process of applying paint. This coloring composition dries quickly (within half an hour), but has poor stability. 1-2 months after staining, peeling is possible.

Acrylic paint is found under the names “latex enamel”, “ liquid acrylic“, however, in fact, it is a two-component polyurethane coloring composition.

At the right technology Once applied, such a coating will last more than 10 years. Today, restoring bathtub enamel with acrylic is the most popular restoration method. The surface coated with this paint has a beautiful glossy look, and there is no unpleasant odor when working with it. Disadvantages: high cost, long term drying (up to 3 days), when a scratch appears, the process of destruction and peeling of the enamel begins.

Alkyd paint is a simple water-dispersion waterproof substance. You should not choose it to restore a bathtub yourself, since this coloring composition has poor technical characteristics.

Enamel is produced in different color palettes, thanks to which you can paint your bathtub at home in any shade. In addition, there are a large number of brands. The most popular of them are Dulux, Jobi, Tikkurila. These manufacturers produce high-quality compounds.

Required Tools

Before painting a bathtub with enamel, you need to prepare the tools necessary for the job. They are used to remove rust stains and also to protect adjacent surfaces from paint. To work you will need:

1. Electric drill. It is needed to clean surfaces from solid deposits. It is recommended to give preference to a drill that is light in weight, as it is more comfortable to hold in your hands.
2. Sandpaper (sanding paper). Both large and fine-grained are useful. Coarse grain is used to remove various contaminants, and fine - for grinding scratches from an abrasive product.
3. Rubber grinding wheel. Needed to remove deposits in hard-to-reach places.
4. Degreasers. Help improve adhesion and avoid paint peeling. You can use acetone or solvent.
5. Paint brushes. It is worth buying high-quality brushes whose bristles do not fall off.
6. Respirator. This mask will protect the respiratory system from toxic substances released by paints.
7. Latex gloves. They are needed to protect your hands.
8. Masking tape. Helps protect surfaces from paint.
9. Mixer. With its help you can thoroughly mix the enamel.
10. Dye. Care must be taken to ensure that the quantity is sufficient to paint the entire surface to be restored.

Once all the tools and protective equipment have been prepared, you can begin work. Initially, you should prepare the surface for painting.

Preparatory work

The service life of the coating depends on the quality of the preparatory work. Even expensive enamel will quickly peel off if the surface is poorly prepared. Procedure:

1. Inspect the condition of the bathtub and, based on this, choose a cleaning sequence. It is better to use sandpaper for cleaning as it removes rust and smoothes the surface.
2. Lock on grinding wheel 80 grit sandpaper, start sanding away any hard deposits and rust. It is recommended to do several approaches in one place, without pressing the tool too hard to the surface (to avoid abrading the enamel to metal).
3. Wipe the surface from dust particles using a soft, dry cloth or vacuum cleaner.
4. To make the surface perfectly smooth, you need to polish it with sandpaper No. 100 or higher, taking into account the depth of the scratches. You cannot sand the walls of the bathtub. For them, you can use scotch-brite with a grain size from P180 to P1000. After completing the work, remove any remaining dust, since the bathtub must be perfectly clean before painting.
5. Finally, degrease the surface.

Repairing chips

Repairing chips is a mandatory procedure, since no coloring composition can hide the difference in height. In addition, bath paint is designed to adhere to natural enamel, but adhesion to metal will be low, which will lead to rapid peeling of the coating.

Automotive materials and finishing putty. The components should be mixed portionwise on a metal spatula. The material is applied to the bath using a rubber spatula. This must be done in an even layer, and if microcracks are detected on the enamel, clean them with the tip of a thin knife.

After completion, you can begin the last stage of preparatory work - surface protection.

Protection of adjacent surfaces

Covering adjacent surfaces from contact with the paint mixture makes the process of removing dried paint easier. For this purpose, you need to seal the perimeter around the bathtub using masking tape. You also need to cover the faucet and floors with film.

Plastic and metal constructions the drain and overflow must be removed, and seats clean and degrease.

There is one more quick way protecting surfaces - lubricating them with technical petroleum jelly or grease. The grease is applied in a thin layer, and after finishing painting the old bathtub, it is removed with a rag. Now you can proceed to the last stage - painting the bathtub. Painting with a brush is considered a reliable and economical option.

Painting with a brush

Painting with a brush has a number of advantages: with its help you can obtain the same thickness of the paint layer, reduce material consumption, and speed up the drying process of the coating. The sequence of painting a bathtub with two-component enamel using a paint brush:

1. Mix the hardener with the enamel base according to the instructions. You should not prepare a large amount of paint, as it is recommended to use it within 50 minutes. After an hour it will begin to harden. To mix, use the mixer at low speeds, since rapid rotation promotes the formation of air bubbles.
2. Place a container with prepared coloring composition into the bath, pour it over the sides and side walls baths, let it drain. Paint the bottom, side surfaces of the sides and bottom. Those areas that cannot be filled are treated with a brush. It is recommended to work with a brush about 5 cm wide.
3. Now you should dip painting tool into the paint to 1/3 of the length, and remove the excess on the side of the container. You need to hold the brush in a horizontal position and slowly rotate it around its axis until paint stops dripping from it. After this, you can begin painting the surface of the bathtub. During operation, it is necessary to hold the tool perpendicular to the surface being processed or at a slight angle.
4. When painting vertical surfaces, you need to start working from the top and gradually work your way down. The resulting smudges are leveled by moving the tip of the brush in a horizontal direction.
5. Two-component compositions require painting the bathtub in one layer 1-2 mm thick. The bottom is painted last.
6. After painting is completed, the paint container must be placed in a place where it cannot be tipped over.

When painting, you need to take a small amount of material on the brush and carefully even out the thickness of the layer. Restoration must be done carefully so that you do not have to buy a new bathtub.

• when performing preparatory work, it is prohibited to use chlorine-containing products to clean the bathtub from dirt;
• It is advisable to carry out coloring in summer period so that the room can be ventilated;
• It is advisable to prepare several brushes for applying paint and, if lint is found on the surface, replace the tool with a new one;
• do not touch the wet coating with your hands;
• when using a one-component composition, it is recommended to apply at least 2 layers of paint up to 0.5 mm thick;
• It is prohibited to soak laundry in a restored bathtub;
• new coating only needs to be washed laundry soap, do not use powder or other aggressive detergents;
• It is not recommended to leave a bathtub filled with water for for a long time, as well as filling it with too hot water.

Thus, to restore an attractive look to an old bathtub, you can paint it with enamel yourself. However, to obtain a high-quality coating, it is necessary to initially carry out preparatory work, and only then begin painting. Otherwise, the paint will soon peel off.