Which insulation is suitable for a balcony: polystyrene foam or mineral wool? Insulating a balcony with mineral wool Do-it-yourself insulating a balcony with stone wool
The question of choosing one or another type of insulation arises in several cases: either with a large volume of work, they choose an insulation on which they can save money, or they select an insulation that, in its own way, physical properties can be used in this particular room. Balconies and loggias are small in terms of floor area, so it is hardly worth talking about serious savings on the difference in cost of different types of insulation. Another thing is when the question arises about what is better to insulate balconies with mineral wool or polystyrene foam - it has more to do with the physical and consumer properties of these types of insulation than with price.
Main characteristics of mineral (glass) wool
In construction, three different types of fibrous materials called mineral wool, they are related by almost the same production technology:
- non-woven fiberglass (glass wool);
- fiber obtained from melted slag;
- fiber from molten volcanic rocks (rock wool).
Each of these types has its own characteristics in terms of moisture absorption, thermal conductivity, resistance to fire and mechanical stress.
The earliest heat-insulating material in terms of production time is glass wool - thin (5-15 microns) and long glass threads obtained from a melt of ordinary glass (glass production waste), has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 003-0.052 Watt/m K°, melting point 450° C.
Glass wool absorbs moisture quite easily and retains it.
The fiber itself does not get wet, but water is retained in the spaces between the individual fibers.
So use this heat insulating material When insulating balconies with your own hands, especially the floor, you can only use waterproofing.
Mineral wool from blast furnace slag
A by-product of metal production technology. It has a fiber thickness of 4-12 microns. Thermal conductivity 0.46-0.48 Watt/m K° Melting point 300° C.
Slag wool is much more friable compared to glass wool, which is elastic to the touch.
A special feature of this heat-insulating material is the residual acidity of blast furnace products.
Therefore, the use of slag wool in wet areas or when wet, leads to the formation of acids that can have a detrimental effect on metals or other chemically unstable materials. Slag wool is a much moisture-absorbing material compared to glass wool, and in no case should it be used in damp rooms or for external wall insulation.
Stone wool is produced from molten rocks of volcanic origin. The thickness of the fibers is identical to slag wool. The thermal conductivity is 0.077-0.12 Watt/m K°, melting point is from 600 to 1000° C.
Mineral wool is currently the most popular of the three types, since it has the most high resistance to fire - it practically does not burn and does not support combustion, and also has an undeniable advantage when insulating a loggia or balcony with your own hands - it does not prick. You can work with it in a regular suit, not a protective suit, and with your bare hands.
Stone wool has the same disadvantages as the other two types of mineral wool - it is very hygroscopic and retains moisture for a long time, especially when insulating the floor.
All of the listed types of mineral wool are produced in rolls or mats. Dense types of wool with a density of 175-200 kg/m 3 are produced in the form of slabs and are convenient for insulating ceilings and floors of balconies.
Depending on the brand of mineral wool, the weight of 1 m 3 can vary from 75 to 200 kg. This is by no means a lightweight heat-insulating material, so to hold it on the walls or ceiling, it is necessary to install a lathing attached to the wall or floor slab.
Domestic manufacturers producing mineral wool are guided by GOST and SNiPs, which allow them to maintain equal parameters for their products various manufacturers. Foreign analogues do not have any significant advantages in thermal conductivity or fire resistance; they are no better than domestic materials, but are much more expensive.
This heat-insulating material is familiar to everyone since childhood. Boards were made from it for teaching swimming. The balls that make up the foam were often used to create artificial snow at children's parties. The technology for producing polystyrene foam is reminiscent of making popcorn. Only foam granules do not explode when exposed to high temperature, and are saturated with air at high pressure.
Foam plastic is the most common and cheapest heat-insulating material.
It has excellent heat-insulating properties, second only to penoplex. Lightweight, easy to install, easy to cut.
There are two production technologies - non-press - in which the balls adhere to each other as a result of the residual stickiness of the uncooled polymer, and press - the most dense and heaviest brands of foam used for floor insulation or road surfaces, underground parts of foundations.
The most common brands in residential construction are PSB-S 15, PSB-S 25, PSB-S 35. They differ in density - 8/15/25 kg/m 3, respectively, and different coefficients of resistance to compression and fracture force. The larger the number in the designation of the foam brand, the more durable it is and resistant to mechanical damage.
Polystyrene foam is flammable, which makes it significantly different from practically non-flammable mineral wool. When burned, it releases deadly dioxide gas. According to the degree of fire hazard, foam plastics belong to flammability category 3. Therefore, it is better not to use foam insulation in rooms and buildings where large numbers of people can gather. Polystyrene foam, unlike mineral wool, is slightly hygroscopic. When completely immersed in water for 24 hours, PSB-S 15 absorbs 4% of the dry weight, and PSB-S 35 – 2% of water.
The temperature range in which foam plastic can be used varies from -60° to +80° C.
It is believed that polystyrene foam is not dangerous to human health. But it is better not to use it for indoor insulation. Polystyrene foam is vapor-proof. In rooms insulated with foam plastic, it is difficult to breathe humid and stale air. Therefore, as insulation, it is most often used outside the room or in those rooms where there is good ventilation, in particular on loggias and balconies.
Choice of insulation
Comparing specifications mineral wool and polystyrene foam, you can evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of each of them and decide which one is best for you. Mineral wool costs a little more than polystyrene foam. With the same volume of 1 m3 of polystyrene foam, you can insulate approximately one and a half times the surface area. To achieve the same effect when thermally insulating with foam plastic, the layer can be one and a half times thinner than the mineral wool layer. To insulate with foam plastic, there is no need to install waterproofing and sheathing. The sheets are directly glued to the ceiling, walls and floor of a loggia or balcony and can additionally be fixed with “fungi” dowels with a wide head. The use of foam plastic boards of the PSB-S 35 or PS-1, PS-4 brands allows you to build on them concrete screed, which greatly simplifies and speeds up the work of arranging the floor on a loggia or balcony with your own hands. Polystyrene foam is not subject to rotting, but is easily destroyed by prolonged contact with water or in bright light. sunlight under the influence of UV rays.
Considering the high flammability of polystyrene foam, it is better to avoid its direct contact with fire, as well as solvent-containing nitro-varnishes and nitro-paints, and acetone.
The advantage of mineral wool is its breathability. In rooms insulated with your own hands using it, air circulates well and is better suffocated. There is no excess humidity and no “thermos” effect in hot weather. When insulating a loggia or balcony with your own hands, the high hygroscopicity of mineral wool does not play a big role, since the only place where contact of the insulation with water is possible is the parapet fence, which is usually reliably sealed with a vapor-permeable membrane. By preventing moisture from entering the insulation, it does not interfere with free air exchange.
The greatest difficulties when insulating a loggia or balcony with your own hands using loose grades of mineral wool arise when insulating the floor and roof of a loggia or balcony. Insulating a balcony with mineral wool, in addition to installing lathing from a wooden block, requires additional fixation. A semblance of shoe lacing is arranged, otherwise, even if glued to the slab, it may delaminate and fall onto the material with which the balcony ceiling is finished. This will lead to a shift in the dew point, freezing of the slab in winter period and will ruin all your efforts.
Instead of a conclusion
There is no clear answer to the question of which material is better when insulating the floor of a loggia or balcony. Everything will depend on your financial capabilities, skills in working with this or that material and the purpose of the insulated balcony - whether it will be heated in cold weather or not.
A balcony or loggia is unheated premises in the apartment. Consequently, they are a source of heat loss from an apartment or house. Even good glass balcony transmits a significant amount of heat.
To avoid this, insulate the balcony or loggia from the inside. It is worth noting that there are different approaches to insulating this type of room.
The type and method of insulation of a balcony and loggia depends on:
- intended purpose:
- the balcony is not intended for storage; it is insulated to reduce heat loss from the room. In this case, the work is carried out according to a scheme similar to external heating. That is, only one side of it, adjacent to the wall of the room, is insulated;
- the balcony is for storage. Insulated around the perimeter of all surfaces. Since there should not be a high temperature here, the requirements for thermal insulation materials are not particularly high;
- a balcony that is a continuation of the living room or serves as an office, library, gym, etc. In this case, heat loss through windows and all surfaces is eliminated. And the materials used are heat insulators with high density and significant thickness. Particular attention is paid to the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material and the rules for its installation.
- budget for insulation. Determines the type of insulation, the area of insulation, and further finishing. It also determines whether to entrust the work to professionals or do the insulation of the balcony with your own hands;
- time of year. Low temperatures able to withstand any type of insulation. But solutions, adhesives and foam must be used taking into account the temperature environment. As a rule, “winter varieties” are more expensive. And the duration of work in winter is longer;
Let's look at ways to insulate a balcony using various insulation materials and give some important practical advice How to make the insulation of a loggia more effective. We will proceed from the fact that it is necessary to insulate the balcony efficiently and inexpensively on all surfaces inside - walls, ceiling and floor.
Insulation requirements:
- light weight. In order not to burden the balcony, which is much lower in strength than a loggia;
- small volume. In order not to occupy the useful living space of a balcony or loggia;
- low cost;
- safety. Fire and environmental;
- the opportunity to do the work yourself.
Insulation for balconies and loggias - types and properties
If you have not yet decided what is the best way to insulate a balcony or loggia from the inside, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with popular thermal insulation materials. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages, which include characteristics, cost and installation methods.
Expanded polystyrene
Durable, dense material that does not support combustion well. Resistant to moisture, has low coefficient thermal conductivity.
Styrofoam
Dense insulation. It has the lowest thermal conductivity coefficient, light weight, high strength and low cost.
Basalt and mineral wool
Soft insulation. It works due to its structure. Fibers arranged in a chaotic manner contain air, which does not allow heat to penetrate through the cotton wool. When working with cotton wool, you need to create an additional frame.
Polyurethane foam (PPU)
Sprayed insulation. The good thing about the material is that it does not allow moisture to pass through, makes it possible to adjust the thickness of the insulation and allows you to obtain a coating without seams. And this, in turn, eliminates the appearance of cold bridges.
Penofol
Multilayer material. The polystyrene backing retains heat, and the aluminum screen, which is like a thermal mirror, allows the heat to be reflected into the home. Can be used on its own or in combination with other insulation materials.
Expanded clay
Bulk insulation. It has a porous structure, thanks to which it retains heat well. Used for floor insulation.
Using these materials to insulate balconies and loggias, you can additionally provide good sound insulation(subject to glazing with plastic windows).
A mandatory accompanying attribute when insulating from the inside with most of these materials is a vapor and hygrobarrier film or a superdiffusion membrane. It is designed to protect the insulation, especially soft ones, from getting wet and condensation.
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How to insulate a balcony with your own hands - step-by-step instructions
- Clearing the premises. It is impossible to do quality work if you have to constantly move things from place to place.
- Sealing cracks. We assume that high-quality double-glazed windows are installed on the windows. In any case, there are gaps between the balcony and the wall, where the ceiling and floor meet. So they need to be sealed using foam, sealants or solutions. Large gaps are sealed with pieces of polystyrene foam.
- Waterproofing of balcony/loggia. This is necessary to prevent water from getting inside. Moreover, it can enter through micropores in concrete. For this purpose, you can use a deeply penetrating primer.
- In case of using cotton wool, it is necessary to install waterproofing film. It is overlapped and secured with tape.
- Installation of insulation. There are two methods here:
- Frame method. In this case, you must first arrange a frame made of antiseptic-treated wooden boards or galvanized profiles. Boards are more popular because they are cheaper and allow you to adjust the thickness of the frame. The most commonly used timber is 50x50. Insulation is inserted into the resulting cells.
- Frameless method. More preferable, but suitable only for rigid insulation. This is due to the fact that the frame material with the frame method remains uncovered by insulation. That is, wood or metal serve as cold bridges and conduct heat well. Therefore, in the vast majority of cases, rigid insulation is installed without constructing a frame.
- Laying penofol, vapor barrier film or superdiffusion membrane.
- The floor is insulated.
- The final stage - decorative finishing balcony or drywall.
Insulation of balconies and loggias with mineral wool
The wool is laid so that it fits tightly to the frame elements, but is not “rammed”, i.e. there is no need to further compact it. This will change the structure of the mineral wool and some of the air will evaporate. This will reduce thermal insulation properties cotton wool. In order for the wool to hold securely on the wall, and especially on the ceiling, it must be additionally secured using wire or umbrellas (dowels with a wide head).
Mineral wool fixed with "umbrellas"
Sometimes the cotton wool is placed behind the frame, as shown in the figure. Then the frame elements are held in place by cotton wool. However, professionals do not recommend using this approach for low-density wool (less than 50 kg/m3), since wool held in only a few places will settle over time, opening part of the wall to the movement of cold air.
The cotton wool is covered with a vapor barrier film. Then the counter-lattice is filled. It allows you to protect the cotton from touching finishing material and avoid the appearance of a dew point in this place.
The stages of installing wool are presented in more detail in the diagram.
- Subfloor
- Floor joists
- Frame
- Basalt wool
- Vapor barrier film
- Counter-lattice
- Finishing material
Balcony insulation with polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam
Rigid insulation is also laid in sections of the frame and fixed with foam or special glue. The insulation is not laid close to the frame, but with a gap of 5-10 mm. The gap is subsequently filled with foam, and the foam sheet is additionally secured with a plastic dowel - an umbrella (fungus).
Fastening foam plastic using a frame method
Fastening polystyrene foam using a frame method
The foam sheets are pressed tightly against each other, and the joints are blown with foam.
Expanded polystyrene sheets are joined using the tongue-and-groove principle.
The spraying method stands apart in this group. Such thermal insulation material like polyurethane foam, it is applied to the wall by spraying. A relatively new material on the market, it is quickly gaining its fans among professionals and amateurs. Because it allows for insulation without additional preparation of the base. The high speed of work completion - less than one day - also speaks in favor of PPU. Disadvantages include high cost and the inability to do the work yourself without special equipment.
- Firstly, reliable protection moisture insulation;
- Secondly, additional internal insulation;
- Thirdly, the foil reflects 90% of the heat back. What is very important for a balcony or loggia, which by law cannot have own sources heating
Currently, insulating balconies using mineral wool is gaining popularity. It is a fairly harmless material that does not contain toxic substances. Also, the use of mineral wool minimizes heat loss on the balcony.
Mineral wool installation technology: step-by-step instructions
- cleaning the wall and priming it;
- marking the slab location plan;
- installation of base profiles and flashings;
- mounting slabs with glue;
- fixing the slabs with dowels;
- installation of waterproofing;
- applying water-repellent plaster;
- finishing.
Ventilated installation technology is slightly different from the standard one. When using ventilated technology, mineral wool is placed in a frame prepared in advance for it. The frame itself, in turn, is the fastening of the future cladding profile. A ventilated front profile is installed on this frame, which creates a gap between the frame and the insulation. In the presence of such a gap, the cotton wool insulation can be ventilated, which improves the overall insulation technology inside and outside the balcony. Ventilated technology includes the following steps:
- surface preparation and priming, metal cleaning;
- securing frame elements;
- fixing the boards with glue;
- strengthening slabs with bolts;
- applying insulation to the frame;
- assembly face covering;
- securing the front covering to the frame.
Pros and cons of wool insulation
Cotton wool, made from slag materials, has a fiber thickness of twelve microns and a length of one and a half millimeters. Blast furnace slag is a material that is unstable in an acidic environment, which is why its use in metal surfaces very limited. However, this material is much cheaper than fiberglass. Slag wool can withstand temperatures up to 300 degrees Celsius. 
Stone wool has fibers of approximately the same thickness and length as slag wool. But, unlike slag wool, stone wool can withstand temperatures from -200 to +1000 degrees Celsius, which makes it the most resistant temperature indicators. This type cotton wool has slab and roll options, and is also the easiest to use and is not prone to deformation or burning.
DIY installation with mineral wool
- wall installation vapor barrier film, secured with staples;
- screwing the lower base profile;
- screwing a beam as thick as insulation using self-tapping screws;
- laying mineral wool.
The adhesive fastening method is also used with ventilated strengthening technology. As adhesive compositions You can use dry mixtures or foam adhesive. 
But the most popular installation method is the use of dowels. Fastening of mineral wool to the insulated surface with dowels occurs, as a rule, 2-24 hours after gluing them. When using dowels during installation you need:
- choose the length of the umbrella;
- drill holes for dowels;
- insert dowels into the holes;
- drive anchors into the structure.
Dowels allow you to attach insulation to walls made of brick, concrete and even wood. 
Vapor barrier
After installing the insulation structure based on mineral wool, you will need to make a vapor barrier. It is carried out using a vapor-permeable membrane. This membrane will remove water vapor from the walls through the insulation. The use of a vapor barrier reduces the likelihood of destruction of the insulating material.
Finishing
Despite the fact that the main function of finishing is decorative, it also plays another role. important role. The finishing is also intended to protect the insulated wall from the adverse effects of moisture, wind and possible mechanical damage.
Common mistakes when insulating yourself with mineral wool
Below is a list of the most common mistakes made when using mineral wool as balcony insulation:
- insulation in one layer - leads to freezing of the structure;
- non-use of vapor barrier – ;
- incorrect floor construction - with a thick floor screed, swelling is possible at the places where the insulation is attached;
- inappropriate insulation of the wall between the balcony and the apartment.
Mineral wool - excellent material for external insulation of balcony walls. Her quality characteristics Avoid condensation and mold formation. Moreover, mineral wool is a very long-lasting material when used correctly.
Video about wet installation of stone wool
It makes no sense to talk about the benefits of insulating balconies and loggias. The opportunity to reduce heat loss, the cost of heating an apartment and gain additional space is attractive to the owners of any apartment.
The process is not particularly difficult. You need to choose a time to complete the work and allocate money to purchase materials.
It is necessary to pay attention to studying the technology, the procedure and some features of insulation.
Advantages of mineral wool
Mineral wool is a group of thermal insulation materials made from a melt of various rocks and minerals. 
- Glass wool;
- Slag;
- Basalt or stone wool.
Despite the diversity of composition, the term “mineral wool” usually means basalt or stone . For home insulation it is most safe material. The characteristics of the heat insulator make it stand out from the list of others, similar materials. Mineral wool has important advantages:
- High heat-saving qualities;
- Mineral wool is a reliable sound insulator;
- Light weight;
- Does not burn and does not support combustion;
- Does not rot, does not contribute to the formation of mold and mildew;
- Available in rolls and slabs, this helps facilitate installation.
- Relatively low price.
The only drawback of the insulator is its ability to absorb moisture, losing its performance. The problem is solved by installing a protective membrane. Suitable choice- insulation stone wool, produced in slabs and mats. They are quite rigid, easier to install, and do not lose their shape over time.
Preparing for work
Before work, it is necessary to free the balcony from all foreign objects, remove lamps, brackets, flower stands. Thoroughly clean surfaces from dust, residues old paint and other coatings. 
Crumbling and peeling areas are completely removed, regardless of the depth of the destruction.
Detected cracks, potholes and other defects should be filled with putty, and in difficult cases - plastered. After the putty has dried, the walls are covered with a double layer of primer - a deep penetration primer.
Balcony vapor barrier
Insulation is done from the inside, so it is necessary to install. It cuts off the heat insulator from the wall material, eliminating the penetration of water vapor. Regular will do a polyethylene sleeve, but you can buy a special vapor barrier, which will be a little more expensive. 
The film is installed in horizontal rows starting from the bottom. Each subsequent row is overlapped by at least 10 cm, the joint is taped with adhesive tape.
The film is attached to the wall using mastic purchased from hardware store. There is no need to doubt the reliability of the glue, since it is only needed for a while.
Installation of sheathing
It is needed to support the insulation and install the sheathing. It is a series of vertically located strips, the distance between which is carefully adjusted and corresponds to the width of the heat insulator. 
When the width of the mineral wool slabs is 60 cm, the lathing pitch should be reduced by 0.5-1 cm to ensure installation density.
The material used is wooden blocks or metal guides for drywall. The second option is considered optimal, since the guides have an ideal geometry, are not prone to rot and cracks, and do not burn. Installation is much easier, since everything is on sale necessary elements- direct hangers, screws.
The first stage is marking the walls and installing direct hangers along the axes of the future planks. The sheathing is built by installing the outer planks. They are carefully aligned vertically, the distance to the wall should be equal to or slightly greater than the thickness of the mineral wool. Then cords are stretched between the slats, serving as guides for installing the intermediate slats. This is faster than checking the position of each bar individually.
Insulation of walls and ceilings
The insulation process involves installing a heat insulator between the sheathing. The procedure is not complicated, but requires maintaining the tightness of the installation. Gaps, cracks and gaps should not be allowed to appear between the mineral wool slabs. 
To eliminate shortcomings, you need to keep a bottle on hand polyurethane foam, which immediately fills all detected irregularities.
The gaps between the insulation boards form cold bridges, areas with active condensation formation. The surface becomes wet, materials and structures in contact with the cold bridge are destroyed. If they are not eliminated in time, the work will have to be redone after 2-3 seasons.
Particular attention should be paid to insulating the slopes of window and door openings, designing corners and junctions with glazing. In these places, cracks may appear, so you need to install the insulator as carefully and tightly as possible.
Installation of mineral wool on ceiling slab produced in the same way. To support the mineral wool, it is recommended to fix it with a thin wire stretched across the sheathing on top of the mineral wool.
Floor insulation
The principle differs little from the general technology, but instead of lathing, logs are used. A layer of waterproofing is laid in front of them with an overlap of about 20 cm on the walls. A vapor barrier is spread over it. 
Then the logs are laid and fastened, with a step convenient for laying the insulation. The mineral wool is tightly and carefully inserted between the joists, and another layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of it. A subfloor is laid from boards or sheet materials(chipboard, plywood, etc.). After this, the finished floor covering can be laid.
Balcony finishing
Finishing work is carried out after installation of the sheathing, which is attached to the sheathing strips on top of the insulation. 
A vapor barrier must be installed on top of the mineral wool to prevent the insulator from getting wet, causing it to lose its properties.
The easiest way to use plywood, gypsum board, chipboard, MDF and other sheets as cladding Construction Materials. Joints between separate sheets and the recessed screws are puttied, the surface of the sheathing is primed, then the finishing layer is applied - paint, wallpaper or textured plaster.
Watch the video:
Some owners prefer installing lining, which combines cladding and finishing and only needs a coat of varnish.
The loggia has an area that is winter time It is desirable to make it comfortable for living. To do this, it is necessary to insulate it. One longitudinal side of the loggia borders your apartment, the second goes out onto the street, the sides are adjacent to the neighbors’ walls. Based on this, special attention should be paid to the open side on which the windows will be located.
Glazing
Most of the heat escapes through the window space. Taking this into account, it is necessary to put quality windows. Best to choose plastic windows with two double glazed windows. They are durable, practical, and have good soundproofing. Their only drawback is that they do not allow air into the room, which can lead to increased condensation. To avoid this, you need to ventilate the loggia more often.
Choosing a method of insulation
It is necessary to decide on the method of insulation: from the outside or from the inside. When choosing an option, you should consider where the dew point will be. The dew point is the temperature at which water vapor precipitates as condensation on the colder side. With external insulation, the wall remains warm and the living space inside the room is not lost. External method much more efficient than internal. But this option is fraught with technical difficulties, since it can only be performed industrial climbers. When insulating from the inside, the thickness of the selected material should be increased, and the work itself should be done with your own hands.
Material selection
The choice of materials for insulation is very large. These can be various types of polystyrene foam, mineral wool, polyethylene foam. Most cheap way— insulation of the loggia with mineral wool. Vatas are fibrous material obtained by melting various types raw materials. This could be glass, volcanic rocks, or blast furnace slag. In this regard, there are several types of this insulation: glass wool, stone or basalt wool and slag. These materials are good insulation materials, have good sound absorption, are lightweight and easy to install, but are susceptible to moisture.
Glass wool
Glass wool has greater creasing when wet, increased 
fragility of fibers. The smallest fragments of glass wool can penetrate the lungs, eyes, and skin, so this material must be tightly packed in plastic bags. When working with it, for safety reasons, you must use gloves, goggles, a respirator, and overalls. Cotton wool can be produced in rolls, mats and slabs.
Stone wool
Stone or basalt wool is the highest quality. It is non-flammable, durable, resistant to deformation, easy to install, and more dense. Its shrinkage is no more than 5%. Mainly produced in slabs. It is advisable to choose her. Use slabs with a thickness of 50-100 mm.
Slag wool
Slag wool is good for insulation, but it is very hygroscopic and has low vibration resistance, which is why its durability is low. Therefore it is in less demand.
Floor insulation
The floor slab is first of all cleared of debris. Waterproofing is placed on the cleaned floor. It can be thick polyethylene or roofing felt. A sheathing made of wooden beam, having the same thickness as the material. It needs to be processed 
antiseptic. The sheathing is attached to the floor slab with dowels. Then insulation is placed in it, between the bars. It must be taken into account that mineral wool with low density will shrink. Therefore, the dimensions of its sheets should be larger in area than the space where it is inserted. The inserted insulation is covered with polyethylene, which is stapled to the beams.
The floor covering can be made: - with a floorboard, treating it with penotex, which will preserve its characteristics. It is advisable to use a tongue and groove board that has grooves and protrusions; - OSB board. We nail the slab or attach it with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. We lay laminate on it. You can cover it with linoleum or carpet after insulating the walls and ceiling.
Insulation of ceilings and walls
If the floor of your neighbor above on the loggia is insulated, then insulating the ceiling of your loggia is no longer necessary, but it is better to cover it. The wall adjacent to the living room does not need to be insulated, since it is warm. It is better to carry out electrical wiring on it to install sockets and a switch. 
To insulate the ceiling and walls, it is necessary to make a lathing from a bar with a section of 50x40 mm in increments of approximately 500 mm. The installation of the bars should begin from the corners of the loggia. Attach the bars to the ceiling and walls with self-tapping screws and treat them with an antiseptic. Then begin the insulation itself. Cut sheets of mineral wool are glued with special glue to the wall and ceiling of the loggia. The glue should have the consistency of sour cream. They need to generously lubricate the gluing surface. Additionally, you can attach the insulation sheets with dowels “fungi”.
The next stage of insulation is vapor barrier. It can be done with dense polyethylene, but it is better to use foil-foamed polyethylene. The foil should be facing the inside of the loggia to retain heat in it. After insulation we carry out the final work. We nail the finishing coating to the beams of the ceiling and walls. It could be PVC lining, wooden lining or other materials. We fix plinths to the floor, and install special corners to the corners of the walls and between the walls and ceiling.
The insulation of the loggia with mineral wool has been successfully completed and your loggia is ready for use in the cold season.
