Secrets of forming a compact gloxinia bush. If gloxinia dies, don’t panic. Do you need to pinch the top of gloxinia?
is a very popular houseplant. But, like any plant, gloxinia has its secrets, problems, in a word, there are problems when growing. To avoid them, you need to try to correct the conditions in which gloxinia are kept at the first sign of their appearance.
1. Gloxinia did not wake up after wintering
Storage location for gloxinia tubers should be cool and dark. If gloxinia tuber mature and healthy, you just have to put it in the light and water it little by little, and shoots begin to grow. Sometimes gloxinia wakes up on its own, and when you take it out into the light, it already has a shoot. However, in practice it does not always work out as it should.
Gloxinia does not wake up on time due to the fact that the rest period was too short, less than 4 months. It is quite possible that the winter was too dry and the tuber dried out. But in any case, gloxinia wakes up on its own. It just takes patience.
To avoid overdrying of the tuber, pots with gloxinia in winter should sometimes be lightly watered or sprinkled with water. Or you can place gloxinia tubers in plastic bags, adding a little soil or damp moss. Close the bags or seal them tightly. The bag will maintain constant moisture, and due to the fact that the bag is transparent, you will have the opportunity to observe the gloxinia tubers in winter. At the first appearance of leaves, you can immediately plant gloxinia in a pot.
If gloxinia did not wake up after wintering, this means that a gloxinia that was too young was sent to winter, it did not have time to form a tuber, or the tuber rotted.
If a gloxinia tuber was purchased in a store and it did not wake up from hibernation after last year’s flowering, it is possible that the tuber was sold of very low quality. Many gardeners complain about this problem. Outwardly, the tubers look quite safe, but in reality it may turn out that they are already old, or infected with some kind of infection or pests. The strength of such tubers is only enough to bloom for one season.
Dig up the tuber, examine it: if it is very wrinkled, then most likely it is lost. Break or cut it: the tuber should be slightly yellowish or pinkish when cut. If this is the case, then dry the sections, sprinkle with crushed coal, you can treat them with regular brilliant green or fucorcin (raspberry liquid, a strong antiseptic, has an antifungal effect, sold in pharmacies). You can treat the tuber with epin or zircon to increase vitality tuber, stimulate it to form shoots.
If the gloxinia tuber is brown on the cut, then most likely it is gone. If the brown color is only on one edge, cut off all the rot, treat the tuber as described above and plant in new soil.
If you want the purchased tubers to be able to survive the winter without any problems, then immediately after purchasing the gloxinia tubers at home, process the entire planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. This treatment is aimed at preserving gloxinia tubers from rot.
The next step is to treat the gloxinia tubers with Actellik or Fitoverm. These drugs will help get rid of thrips, spider mites and other pests indoor plants.
If you purchased gloxinia in a pot, change the soil and treat the tuber. The soil that is sold in pots along with plants is very poor.
Perhaps the tuber is already old and has simply died. Gloxinias live for three to four years. If you really value this particular variety of gloxinia, try to root a cutting or leaf in advance.
2. Gloxinia did not have time to form a tuber
Spots on gloxinia leaves may appear from too bright lighting. Shade the gloxinia, otherwise there will be sunburn. Spots on gloxinia leaves may appear from excessive watering and also if you water too much cold water. Spotting of gloxinia leaves can be caused by drafts. Small spots on gloxinia leaves may indicate the presence of pests on the plant. Insecticide treatments are needed. In addition, gloxinia can be affected by various viral diseases, for example, tomato ringspot virus.
8. Gloxinia leaves curl
Rolling Gloxinia leaves perhaps if the room is too dry and hot. However, even if the air humidity is too high or the soil is excessively waterlogged, gloxinia leaves also curl, bend, short stalks form, or the formation of deformed flowers is observed. Adjust watering of gloxinias. Treat gloxinia with actellik or fitoverm against spider mites. Curling of gloxinia leaves can be caused by an overdose of potassium fertilizers.
9. Gloxinia leaves turned red
Redness of gloxinia leaves begins with a lack of phosphorus. Phosphorus starvation causes gloxinia to stop blooming altogether. To correct this problem, feed gloxinia with superphosphate or another fertilizer that contains more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. For example, diammofosk fertilizer or liquid fertilizers containing a set of additional microelements are suitable for this.
10. Gloxinia’s lower leaves dry out
Gloxinia's lower leaves dry out with insufficient air humidity, or vice versa, overflow. Possible infection. Treat with phytosporin or other fungicide. If this happens in the fall, when gloxinia is preparing to retire, then this is normal.
11. Gloxinia does not bloom
Gloxinia does not bloom due to overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen only stimulates green growth, but slows down flowering. Delayed flowering may be affected by insufficient lighting, low temperature ambient air, low humidity or insufficient watering. Flowering can also be affected by improper or too short wintering, as a result of which the tuber did not have time to prepare for the next season. For gloxinia to bloom well in next season, she needs a rest period of four months.
For gloxinia to bloom fully, it simply needs good lighting. Gloxinias love light! From the moment they awaken, immediately place pots with gloxinia tubers in places where there is a lot of light, or organize additional lighting, otherwise the buds may not appear at all, and if they do appear, there may be few of them, or the flowers may not be fully formed and may turn out to be empty flowers , or not fully open.
The size of the pot also plays an important role. To grow gloxinia, it is better to choose a small, low and wide pot rather than a deep one. IN big pot gloxinia will take a long time to grow the tuber to the detriment of flowering. For an adult gloxinia tuber, the pot should be about 9-12 cm in diameter. And after gloxinia begins to actively grow, it is necessary to fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
In addition to the pot, gloxinia annually needs replanting and new fertile soil. You can make the soil mixture for gloxinia yourself: humus, coniferous land, leaf soil, sand, perlite or hydrogel, peat. But before use, it needs to be calcined for pests and pathogenic microbes. Spread the soil on a tray and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes.
If you can't make your own earth mixture, then you will have to use a store-bought mixture, but fertilize more often.
12. The petioles of gloxinia leaves rot, the buds rot, turn black and die
Gloxinia leaf petioles rot and buds rot due to excessive waterlogging, too acidic soil pH, as well as excessive amounts of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Change the soil, adjust the watering. In order not to overdo it with nitrogen, use only complex fertilizers, which contain, in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, carry out two or three treatments with phytosporin, Maxim or other fungicide to preserve the gloxinia tuber from rotting.
If Gloxinia's buds turn black and die, then most likely it was too cold wintering, soil is too poor and not enough nutrition, severe overwatering. Typically, problems with flowering are solved by fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers and additional lighting. Treat with fungicides. If the problem is not corrected, then most likely there is a problem with the tuber: it has begun to disappear.
13. Gloxinia produces a barren flower
At the beginning on gloxinia, as usual, the buds are laid, the sepals open, and inside instead of a bud there is a green pea, barren flower. After some time, the peduncle on which this underdeveloped bud grew turns brown.
Perhaps the gloxinia tuber was stored at too cold a temperature. Cut this peduncle and wait for the next peduncles. After a while, watch how new buds open, perhaps everything will return to normal without additional intervention. Try a few more sprays with Epine to help the plant relieve stress and help the formation of normal buds.
14. Gloxinia's buds do not fully open
Gloxinia's buds do not fully open, and then they turn brown and become soft. This is quite possible, if gloxinia has too many buds and does not have enough fertilizing, it is simply not able to cope with flowering. In this way, gloxinia itself regulates its flowering. This may be a varietal feature.
It is possible that it bloomed too early or late, when the daylight hours are short and there is simply not enough light for it. Typically, this occurs during the off-season.
Under-opening of buds may result from an attack by spider mites or thrips. Treat with insecticides.
15. Gloxinia’s buds are drying up
Gloxinia's buds are drying up due to too dry air, high temperature air. If the summer is very hot, spray gloxinia. Hang a damp sheet on the window. Try feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
16. All the leaves of gloxinia began to wither
If Gloxinia's leaves began to wither in the fall, this means that gloxinia is preparing for winter. Reduce watering to a minimum. Wait until the gloxinia has completely withered, prune top part shoots, leave only a small stump and send the gloxinia tuber for the winter. It can be in the same pot, or it can be in a plastic bag, as described in problem 1.
If gloxinia’s leaves begin to wither during the growing season, then most likely there is a problem with the tuber. It rotted from too much waterlogging. Urgently dig up, cut off the affected leaves, treat the tuber with fungicides and plant in fresh soil.
17. How to make gloxinia bloom again
If your gloxinia has faded and no longer forms peduncles, and you want make gloxinia bloom again, trim it to 2-3 pairs of leaves. In 1.5-2 months, the gloxinia will grow a new stem, and your favorite gloxinia will bloom again. Stimulate re-blooming can be fertilized with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
The rights to the images belong to myhome-flowers.ru, dimetris.com.ua, forum.prihoz.ru: Sweet Berry, flickr.com: smalla, CameliaTWU, philipbouchard, Meighan, Larra Jungle Princess, carolinesoer, kasmil, Gerbera2009, ??? ??, livingflame, Sirelroka
When breeding gloxinia, a common defect is a violation of the normal development of the plant, namely, when the bush takes on a disheveled shape. The shoots of the flower begin to stretch out, and the flower itself falls on its side. This creates certain inconveniences in care; in addition, the bush loses its compact appearance and may even break. What is the reason for this phenomenon and how to help the plant?
Reasons for the “disheveledness” of gloxinia
If the bush begins to lose its shape and stretch out, you don’t need to look far for the reason. Most often this occurs as a result of a violation of the conditions of detention, namely a combination of two factors:
- insufficient lighting;
- high air temperature.
This combination is typical for winter period, when the radiators start working, and the duration of daylight hours is significantly reduced. It is precisely during the period when the tubers wake up that the shape of the bush is largely determined.
Gloxinia will grow lush and beautiful if you provide it with comfortable temperature and good lighting.
How to prevent gloxinia from stretching?
Most appropriate place for a flower - this is the southwestern window sill. If the pot is on a north window, it is necessary to provide the plant with additional lighting in winter so that it does not reach out in search of light.
Daylight hours must be at least 12 hours.
As for the temperature, it is undesirable to place the flower next to a heating radiator - it emits hot and dry air. It is better that the air temperature in the room where gloxinia grows is 18-20 degrees.
How to return gloxinia to its compact appearance?
If it was not possible to save the flower, and it still lost its shape, this does not mean that you can say goodbye to the bush. Fortunately, the situation can be corrected by using a simple method.
So, what needs to be done with an elongated bush? At the end of spring, after the first flowering, the above-ground part of the plant should be cut off. Moisten the remaining part (tuber) and place the pot in a bright place. It is better to choose a window that does not open to protect the flower from a possible draft.
By the beginning of summer, new shoots will emerge from the tuber. Since there is enough light during this period, the new bush will grow compact and lush.
Formation of Gloxinia - video
In winter, many not very experienced flower growers despair because the flower is sick. However, gloxinias “hibernate” already in the fall, only to wake up again in the spring and please the mistress of the house with their delicate velvet bells. As soon as this plant has finished blooming, carefully remove the dead shoots, leaving only a “stump”, and send the pot to rest, only occasionally spraying the soil so that the tuber does not dry out.
It is probably difficult to find a gardener who would not like gloxinias. But, alas, not everyone manages to propagate them using leaves. Why? The problem is that gloxinia leaves do not always take root quickly.
REPRODUCTION
If you are an inexperienced gardener, it is better to propagate this flower using seeds, experts from the Central Plant recommend botanical garden. Prepare drainage in pots or bowls. Close the hole for water drainage in the container with a shard and fill the pot to a third of the height with a layer of pebbles. For sowing, sifted light soil, ideally leafy, is usually used, to which a third of washed sand is added.The prepared soil mixture is soaked well before sowing. Large seeds are not too densely distributed on the surface in grooves. Then they are covered with a thin layer of earth. Small seeds do not cover it up, but, scattering it evenly over the surface of the ground, water it with water from a spray bottle. Seeds are sown in early February. The bowls are covered with glass and placed in a warm place. Occasionally, the glass is removed for ventilation. When shoots appear, the bowls or pots are placed on the window, removing the glass. Plants are accustomed to the sun gradually, over 2-3 days.
At the end of winter, be sure to replant the sprouted tuber in fresh soil - the layer of soil above the tuber should not exceed 1 cm. To ensure that the plant is developed and blooms profusely, leave 1-2 of the most powerful shoots from the many sprouted shoots.
In order for gloxinias to delight with their magnificent flowering, provide them good lighting. Plants really need this. They are most comfortable on the southeast, south or southwest side. Buy healthy planting material or a healthy adult plant, a suitable soil mixture. Provide dry wintering for gloxinias. Remember: these flowers cannot be sprayed with water, like all plants with pubescent leaves.
WATERING
When gloxinia grows, it is best to water the flower like this: place the pot in an empty container and carefully, trying not to get it on the leaves, water the plant from above so that the water passes through the pot and rises in the container to 1/2 the height. Take a five-minute break, and then take out the pot of gloxinia and place it on a tray to drain. Be sure to remove excess water from the pan after watering. Carry out the next watering when upper layer the earth will dry up.Keep in mind that if there is excess moisture, the roots of gloxinia rot and the leaves turn yellow, so do not flood the flower with water, but remove dust from the leaves with a soft brush.
LIGHTING
To prolong flowering in the fall, gloxinia should be illuminated with fluorescent or special lamps. The optimal length of daylight for this flower is 12-14 hours. Or you can resort to this method: after the flower reaches four years of age, it begins to bloom from May to September, during this period it is necessary to cut off those pedicels that have already bloomed.FEEDING
From April to August, gloxinia needs to be fertilized with fertilizers for flowering indoor plants - they should be carried out once a week. Experienced flower growers It is recommended to use only half the dose indicated on the package.DISEASES AND PESTS
Gloxinia, like other flowers, is unfortunately susceptible to diseases and pest attacks. Preventing the development of diseases is very important, because the plant can be affected by late blight, tuber rot, powdery mildew etc. If gloxinia is unwell, the drug “Fundazol” will be your salvation.Ticks can also infect gloxinia. This is indicated by twisted and diseased leaves and disappearing flowers. In this case, the shoots acquire Brown color, their growth slows down. The plant must be treated with the drug three times within two weeks. “Fitoverm” or another product will help rid gloxinia of ticks and prevent the appearance of thrips and other pests.
If brown spots appear on the leaves, this means that too cold water was used for watering.
Yellowed leaves indicate that the plant has been in the sun for a long time, has been overfed with fertilizers, and its health has been adversely affected by disturbances in air humidity.
What are flowers silent about?
If your houseplants are not doing well, watch the leaves. Green pets survive the winter especially painfully. How to understand the language of flowers?
- If the leaves have stopped shining, there may be three reasons for this problem: too much light, too much light, spider mite or... you haven't washed your plants for a long time.
- Do spots and spots appear? If they are dry, this is a signal of lack of water. Wet? This means they overdid it with watering.
- If the affected areas look like a blister, the cause is a plant disease.
- Brown leaf tips or edges indicate dry air or leaf damage.
- Yellowish or brown edge of the leaf - waterlogging of the soil or total lack of water, violation temperature regime, you managed to overfeed the plant with minerals.
- Curling and falling of leaves indicates that the plants simply do not have enough heat, that the soil is waterlogged or the flower is in a draft.
HAVE A QUESTION
- If the leaves turn yellow and fall off - sometimes this is a natural process; perhaps the soil is waterlogged or the flower “caught a cold” in a draft, because plants, like people, do not tolerate temperature changes well.
I grew them in the fall from gloxinia seeds; some of them went into the winter to rest, while the rest grew very long. Is it possible to prune them or is it better to pinch them if they haven’t bloomed yet?
Tamara Tabakina, Gomel
It is undesirable for gloxinias to grow long shoots - for this, starting in January, you need to regularly check the pots of the plant. Place those with shoots in a bright place so that the young shoots are stocky. The long stems of gloxinia that have grown can be left as they are, and unique ampelous gloxinia will grow from them. Alternatively, cut and root stem cuttings from long shoots, this way you will get new young gloxinias that can be grown in the first year and without a dormant period. Moderately long stems can also be pinched.
The most common defect when growing gloxinia is the development of a plant with a disheveled bush shape, consisting of elongated stems. The reason for this deficiency is a combination of two factors: insufficient illumination of the plant and the high temperature of its content. This combination of conditions occurs in rooms with central heating in winter, when the tubers wake up.
Instead of a compact plant shape, a “disheveled” form will develop in the following cases:
- if at improper storage, the still unplanted tuber has developed etiolated thin shoots (very often such tubers are sold in garden centers);
- at vegetative propagation gloxinia, when many young plants simultaneously develop from a cutting.
Gloxinia will form a compact form if, from the moment the tubers germinate until the beginning of the budding period, the plant is provided with the recommended temperature and light:
- temperature +(18-20) 0 C;
- lighting: during the period October / April - direct Sun rays; in the period May/September - before 10-00 and after 17-00 direct sunlight, in the period from 10-00 to 17-00 - diffused sunlight.
Correcting the shape of an elongated bush
To correct the situation, after the first flowering we cut off the above-ground part of the “disheveled” plant. Next, we provide it with the recommended temperature and lighting values. When watering gloxinia, it is necessary to take into account that the moisture requirement of a plant without leaves is small. When new shoots appear above the soil surface, we carry out the first fertilizing.
At the end of spring or beginning of summer, after such a procedure, gloxinia will develop again, but with a compact aerial part.
I do not consider gloxinia a capricious plant. Even a beginner in the flower business can grow it. However, this spring flower There are some peculiarities that still need to be observed. And then you don’t have to be afraid that gloxinia will not bloom or die.
1 You need to know that the plant does not like either extreme heat or cold. It should especially not be overcooled: in winter, during the rest period, the temperature should not be allowed to drop below +14°C. With the onset of spring, the temperature needs to be raised to +21...+24° C. And in the summer it will be very comfortable at a temperature no higher than +25° C.
Help from the "Economy"
If during flowering the air temperature is above +28° C, gloxinia will shed its buds and flowers.
2 Gloxinia should not be transfused, especially if the temperature is below comfortable. Otherwise, the roots will rot and the plant will die.
3 It is necessary to place the plants in a bright place, but so that their velvety leaves do not receive direct sunlight, otherwise there will be unsightly burns. I have gloxinias on the north window, although many write that they should be kept on the east or west, but they get burned there. Maybe because I live in the south.
4 I water the gloxinia very carefully, trying not to get it on the outlet, that is, along the edge of the pot or directly into the tray. Water - only left standing for at least a day. There should be no water remaining in the pan; excess must be drained.
Help from the "Economy"
Gloxinia tolerates drought better than overwatering. If it is very hot, then you can spray the foliage, but very carefully: not with a stream, but with fog, and not in the sun, but in the evening.
5 The soil for gloxinia needs to be breathable. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself. Mix sand, sheet and peat soil in a ratio of 0.5:1:1 and add vermicompost - gloxinias love fertilizers.
6 Containers for gloxinias should not be high, as they root system superficial. Therefore, it is better to prefer a low, wide pot, but such that the leaves of the plant extend beyond the boundaries of the pot. The rule for gloxinia: “In cramped conditions, but don’t be offended.”
7 Gloxinia does not need to be fed, but after fertilization it blooms better and longer: from April to September. Suitable for any room flowering plants(use according to instructions).
8 The most important thing for gloxinia is the rest period. By winter, it sheds all its leaves, leaving a bare tuber. I place the pot in a dark and cold room (14-16° C) without watering (a little on top). In February, the tuber begins to wake up, I replant it, water it and wait for it to bloom.
Everyone I know likes my gloxinias, but for some reason others don’t turn out the same as me. If my advice helps you in growing your gloxinias, I will be only happy.
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