How to trim faded rose flowers. Pruning roses after flowering - detailed instructions for beginners. Summer pruning of roses for re-blooming
An integral element of caring for roses in the garden or at home is pruning. This procedure is carried out to achieve many goals aimed at rejuvenating the plant, enhancing its flowering and protecting it from various diseases. Pruning in summer period, which is practiced relatively rarely.
General rules for caring for roses for beginners
Once the bushes have been planted, they should be watered regularly as they respond positively to moisture. However, excess liquid is also dangerous for plants. Fertilizing is carried out once a month, carefully observing the dosage and trying not to exceed. In order to protect plantings from diseases and pests, they are used as chemicals, so folk remedies. From time to time, roses are pruned as necessary.
Why prune roses
Plants that have not been treated for a long time necessary pruning, quickly lose their decorative properties. The upper part of the plants dies off after several years, and new shoots form from the buds growing in the lower part of the bushes. For wild roses, only minimal pruning is important, as a result of which they get rid of old and dried stems, which allows the plants to look neat. The reasons why full pruning of varietal bushes is carried out are more varied:
- Pruning for the purpose of rejuvenation extends the lifespan of plants. If the branches are not removed within three years, they become ugly and spoil the appearance of the plants, and subsequently dry out;
- full flowering and buds of sufficient size can only be obtained if there is a sufficient level of nutrition. To ensure this, it is necessary to promptly get rid of thinned, weakened, old stems, as well as those that grow inside the crown and thicken it. All these shoots are useless and even harmful from a decorative point of view, and also increase the risk of developing fungal diseases, and at the same time consume a significant part nutrients. All stems that are thinner in diameter than a pencil are also removed, since they will not have time to grow normally before winter and will die. This kind of pruning is the answer to frequently asked question flower growers on how to prune roses in August;
Why prune roses
- normalizing the number of stems will allow you to get large, beautiful flowers;
- It is necessary to cut out stems that have suffered from diseases. This will prevent harmful infections from spreading further throughout the plant;
- pruning bushes in spring or autumn stimulates the development and growth of new, more powerful and strong stems;
- The crop in question has a high shoot-forming ability and a powerful root system. The combination of a balance between these two systems will result in a beautiful ornamental plant, whereas in its absence, only young thin or drying old shoots will be present on the flowers.
Should roses be cut in summer?
Note! Roses are usually pruned in autumn or spring. However, this procedure can also be carried out in the summer.
During this period, its main goal is the need for roses to bloom again after a certain period of time. First of all, this applies to large-flowered and standard varieties. It should be noted that there are varieties of roses that can bloom only once per season, and pruning cannot change this property. This category includes, for example, individual climbing roses, the buds of which form on last year’s shoots. However, there are very few such varieties, and most of the most common varieties (Floribunda, David Austin, etc.) do not belong to them. In order for the plants to bloom again, it is necessary to cut the stems low, which will accelerate the rapid formation of new shoots. For those roses that bloom once per season, only the flowers are removed.
In some cases, there is a lack of plant flowering when normal conditions cultivation. The reason for this is the so-called. blind escape. At the top of such stems there are scars of a darkish color or an underdeveloped bud, whereas in full-fledged shoots the top is crowned with this year's growth or bud. Such a defect in the spring can be triggered by late frosts, and in the summer it can be affected by metabolic disorders or fungal diseases. To get rid of this deficiency, the apical bud should be removed, capturing part of the normal stem with a leaf.
Important! In summer, plants are often affected by fungal diseases. This is usually observed due to gross violations of cultivation technology: excess moisture, thickened plantings, excess dosage of nitrogen fertilizers, etc.
With regular visual examination, it is possible to quickly determine the initial symptoms of ailments and carry out the necessary treatment. At this stage, it is very effective to remove affected areas of plants while capturing a small part of healthy plant tissue. If this procedure is not carried out, the disease will spread further and destroy the plant unless chemical remedies are used.
Perennial plantings require regular anti-aging pruning. First of all, this need manifests itself in bush roses. Usually this pruning is carried out in the autumn, however given time The year is usually characterized by wet weather. In view of this, open stem sections become accessible to various infectious diseases. When pruning in summer, the cuts dry out relatively quickly. The procedure is carried out shortly after flowering has completed, in dry weather. Thickened stems located in the lower part of the plant and characterized by dark-colored bark are removed.
Important! Shoots are removed either completely, at ground level, or they are transferred to the nearest strong lateral shoot.
Summer pruning is especially important for established plants. Such roses often begin to grow multiple shoots below the grafting site. This process is especially strong and poorly controlled after severe cold winters. If this new growth is not removed in time, it can absorb all the nutrients, resulting in the death of the varietal rose.
Should roses be cut in summer?
A situation often occurs when varietal plants freeze out in cold winters, and in the spring shoots begin to grow from the roots. Before pruning it, you should make sure that it is a real growth from a wild species, and not from a variety. In cultivated roses, the leaf usually consists of 5 leaves, and in wild roses - from 7. However, some varieties also have 7 leaves, so you need to pay attention to the color of the foliage. U wild plants the leaves are pale, unfulfilled and smallish, they lack the glossy sheen characteristic of varietal plants. Wild animals also do not have a reddish coating on the leaves and young stems of the bush.
Pay attention! Unlike most roses, ground cover roses do not require heavy pruning. In the first year, they make do with light pruning of the stems, and then they carry out only sanitary pruning.
Rose pruning process
To prune roses, choose a dry, warm day. The tools used are a previously disinfected knife or pruning shears, and if there are shoots more than 2 cm in thickness, a garden saw is used. Pruning is carried out immediately after the first flowering, approximately 8 mm above the eyes - the outer growth buds. These buds are rudiments, located in the axils of the leaves and are clearly visible after the foliage has fallen. This allows not only to stimulate additional flowering, but also to accelerate the growth of shoots.
On roses, instead of pruning, it is often practiced to remove a flower that has stopped blooming by pinching the peduncle, similar to tulips or daffodils. This should not be done, since this procedure greatly weakens the escape. After pinching, it begins to stretch in length and becomes very brittle. Flowers on such shoots quickly fall off.
Important! The cut on the shoot should be smooth and there should be no jagged edges. When cutting, make an inclination towards the bud up to half a centimeter.
If pruned incorrectly, the plant often dies. If the cut was made above the bud, then the stem soon dries out and dies, and if below the bud, it runs the risk of being damaged and affected infectious disease. A cut with an incorrectly made slope often causes the accumulation of moisture in the bud and its subsequent death. For disinfection, a fresh cut is thickly coated with garden varnish.
Summer pruning climbing roses usually involves removing old shoots to the ground, followed by mandatory sealing with garden varnish. Among the young stems, only the most powerful and tall ones are left, which will serve as the basis for flowers in next season. If there are not enough such shoots, then the old stems are not removed completely, but to a level of 30-40 cm. Most often, pruning of climbing roses is carried out in July.
Additional information! Reblooming roses are even easier to prune. Flowers are removed at the level of the nearest upper shoot with a full-fledged five-leaf clover.
Do I need to cut roses while they are blooming?
Roses are usually not pruned during flowering in the summer. This sharply reduces the decorative appearance of plants. It is better to wait until the roses complete the flowering phase.
Knowing how to properly cut roses from a bush in the summer, and being able to apply the acquired knowledge in practice, you can easily increase the decorative value of the roses growing on your site. A simple and short procedure will allow you to correctly form the bushes, making them more beautiful and healthy.
Indoor roses are so popular that they have begun to be perceived as a kind of seasonal decoration or holiday accent. Many gardeners simply throw away the rose after flowering, although even in a potted format it remains a full-fledged shrub and can delight us for many years. In addition to a cool winter, roses only need proper care to bloom again. The key factor is proper pruning, which is almost no different from pruning garden princesses.
Pruning an indoor rose. © Diedra Black
Indoor roses cannot be called difficult plants to grow. You just need to choose them carefully temperature conditions and take a responsible approach to care. If you surround roses with care, they will bloom tirelessly and almost constantly.
For indoor roses Watering, fertilizing, access to fresh air, and frequent inspections are important. But if all other points of basic care are “responsible” for the health and strength of plants, then one of the procedures is the key to its abundant and continuous flowering.
Pruning is the main secret to the luxurious flowering of potted roses. In this regard, miniature copies of garden beauties (which are indoor roses) are no different from any other varietal roses.
For indoor roses, three types of pruning are necessary:
- Regular, annual pruning for formation and flowering.
- Regulatory pruning to deal with shoots that are weak or stray from the contours.
- Seasonal pruning, which boils down to removing wilting parts of the plant.
Without exception, all indoor roses, regardless of their origin and class, tolerate even the most severe pruning and allow shaping. Both miniature, floribunda, and Chinese varieties are pruned according to general rules.
When pruning indoor roses, it is very important to comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards:
- use only sharp tools, and best of all, special pruning shears for pruning shrubs;
- make sure the tools are clean and treat work surfaces with disinfectants;
- Treat all cuts immediately with protective equipment.
Whatever pruning we are talking about on roses, even in indoor format, the cuts must be done correctly, carefully checking the location of the buds. For indoor roses, pruning is carried out only above the buds, as close as possible, but still leaving a part of the trunk about 0.5 cm long to eliminate the risk of damage to the bud itself. Damaged shoots are cut back to healthy tissue. The cut is made only at an angle, away from the bud.
Basic pruning of indoor roses
Indoor roses are pruned to stimulate bush thickening and flowering as abundantly as possible according to the same principles and rules as any other cultivated bush roses, including garden ones. Cutting back all old shoots to stimulate new growth is the main task. Without pruning, it is impossible to stimulate the growth of strong, healthy and high-quality young shoots: indoor queens bloom on the current year's shoots, and without pruning, flowering will be very sparse.
Basic pruning of indoor beauties is carried out after a period of dormancy and before the start of active growth. Typically, roses are pruned in February or early March. But it’s best to focus on much more obvious sign- swelling of the kidneys. They should not wake up and begin to develop, but only “buck up” so that future growth points can be easily recognized. The duration of daylight at the time of pruning should already exceed 10 hours.
For indoor roses, both late and early pruning are equally dangerous:
- if you trim ahead of schedule, during short daylight hours, new shoots will develop too weakly, and both foliage and flowering will suffer;
- if pruning is done late, when growth has already begun to develop from the buds, then as a result of a drastic pruning, growth will stop, the plant will spend energy on adaptation, and all development before pruning will be “wasted” and will deplete the plant.
Indoor rose in a flowerpot. © Andrea Satterfield The main pruning begins not with general regulatory pruning, but with mandatory sanitary cleaning. This procedure is typical for all shrubs in both garden and indoor culture:
- First of all, remove all damaged, dry shoots. Pruning is carried out to healthy tissue. If there is no point in preserving the remaining part of the shoot (for example, if there are no buds on it), then cut it to the ground.
- All weak, elongated, thinned shoots are cut to the base.
- The bushes are carefully inspected and the branches that thicken the crown and grow inside the bushes are cut out to the base. During pruning you also need to remove:
- severely twisted shoots;
- branches without an upper central bud (plug);
- one of any intersecting shoots and extra branches growing from one bud.
If pruning was carried out after flowering, then before the main pruning they simply cut out previously missed or new problem areas and carry out control.
The most reliable rule that allows you to always prune a rose correctly is to cut all shoots to half their length. If you do not have experience in growing roses indoors or you are afraid of pruning, then use this particular pruning principle. This is the most reliable option trimmings from indoor roses.
If pruning does not scare you, and you can easily navigate the plant itself, you can “count” the buds well and adjust the pruning individually on each bush, then it is better to use a less universal, but also more productive strategy. All shoots of indoor roses are shortened, leaving at least 3 high-quality buds on them (the optimal number is 4-5 buds). The degree of pruning is determined depending on the desired compactness and shape of the bush, the condition of the plant, the thickness and height of the shoots. Small-flowered roses like lower pruning than large-flowered roses; weak-growing shoots are cut to three buds, and up to 5-6 buds can be left on powerful ones. On any bush it is necessary to leave 4-5 skeletal strong shoots (they are usually shortened to 3-5 buds, leaving a base 10-15 cm high).
The formation of the rose can be done as desired. When pruning roses, you can set a strict, almost topiary shape of a ball or cone, you can limit the height or make the bushes “flat”. Different types of roses are more “inclined” to their particular shape. Thus, floribundas and Chinese (Bengal) indoor roses are formed at will; miniature roses are often grown in a spherical, conical or elliptical shape. If the rose was bought with a certain bush shape, then with regular pruning it is supported and the shoots that escape are shortened. If you want to give a room rose a new shape, then it is better to carry out the formation gradually and spread it out over several years, cutting off only part of the shoots each year and giving the plant time for high-quality thickening of the crown and restoration.
In addition to basic pruning, roses should be monitored throughout the rest of the year. If some shoots grow unproductively, are too weak or thin, stretch out, stand “naked”, it is better to remove them immediately.
Care after main pruning
Roses that have undergone basic pruning should not be immediately exposed to the sun and heat. Before the leaves appear, it is better to keep trimmed indoor beauties in a room with a cool temperature of about 10-11 degrees and in diffused lighting. They can be moved to bright light and room temperatures only after the first leaves appear.
Watering after pruning for indoor roses should be very careful. Overmoistening at this stage poses a very big threat, and complete drying of the substrate may not allow the plant to produce full-fledged strong branches. Feeding is not resumed until the roses begin to actively develop. It is worth paying attention to air humidity: high humidity in the first weeks after pruning, it increases the risk of the spread of diseases and damage to indoor roses by fungal infections.
Caring for indoor roses after pruning. © klenova Additional and seasonal procedures
Proper pruning for indoor roses starts at the flowering stage. Like garden beauties, fruiting of indoor roses negatively affects the duration of flowering and its characteristics. The bushes must be regularly inspected and fading flowers must be constantly removed from the plant. Such “cleaning” will not only prolong flowering, but will also give you the opportunity to admire immaculate bushes in pots, which are far from being decorated by the appearance of fading petals.
Basic seasonal procedures during flowering:
1. As soon as the flowers fade on the rose, all faded parts of the shoots are shortened to the first full leaf (cinquefoil) or to the first full bud looking outward. Pruning above the bud is carried out according to the same rules as the main pruning on indoor roses.
2. If you want to achieve constant flowering from a rose, you can, after the flower has fully opened, cut the stem to the fifth bud, thereby stimulating the growth of new shoots and buds. Each new shoot during the entire growing period is shortened in the same way as during the main pruning. This option is labor-intensive and does not always bring the desired result; in conditions of shortening daylight hours, the rose will still stop flowering, so it is better to simply remove faded inflorescences in the usual way and not combine pruning and flowering.
3. As part of additional measures, do not forget to remove dry or damaged parts. It is also better to trim dry or beginning to dry out leaves or twigs without waiting for spring sanitary cleaning.
It is better to supplement the last trimmings of faded inflorescences sanitary cleaning– removal of damaged, weak, dry, unproductive or thickening shoots. By thinning and leaving only strong, healthy branches for the winter, they reduce the risk of the spread of diseases and pests. It is not necessary to carry out sanitary pruning after flowering; it can be combined with the main one. And in this matter it is better to focus on your preferences and capabilities.
In any garden - spacious, small, tiny - roses create an enveloping atmosphere of fabulousness, romance, aristocracy and discreet luxury. Roses look harmonious and solemn both in a flowerbed and in individual plantings. They feel comfortable among other plants, which, being a retinue for the queen of flowers, further emphasize her beauty.
But in order for roses to bloom magnificently and delight us, it is necessary to take care of them. One of the important aspects of caring for roses is their correct pruning, which should be carried out not only regularly, but also, if possible, professionally.
By regularly pruning roses, we determine the number of young shoots and, accordingly, create conditions for the formation of a large number of strong young shoots, which is very important for maintaining the high viability of roses. In addition, we direct the power of the plant to its active development, give the bush its shape, influence the abundance of flowering and extend its lifespan. Therefore, correct and competent pruning is very important for roses. Pruning roses itself is not a complicated procedure, but different groups and varieties require an individual approach.
Timing for pruning roses
The best time to prune roses is spring. The flowering of forsythia will tell you when to take up the pruning shears. As soon as the forsythia is covered with golden flowers, and the buds begin to swell in the lower part of the rose bushes, you can safely begin pruning the roses. This is approximately the end of April - beginning of May. If you prune roses earlier, then at night spring frosts cut shoots may freeze. Then flowering will come much later. If you are late with pruning, the plant will spend all its energy growing new shoots and leaves. As a result, the plant will be weak and the flowering will not be as abundant.
Wild shoots, which often grow below the grafting site, are not pruned, but torn off. To do this, you should expose the root collar to the place where the shoot grows and with a quick downward movement of your hand, tear it off at the base.
Summer pruning of roses usually comes down to removing faded flowers, thus ensuring re-blooming. flowering varieties. In autumn, overgrown rose bushes are trimmed and branches and leaves affected by fungi are removed. But the main pruning of rose bushes is carried out, as we have already said, in the spring, when it is clearly visible which branches have not overwintered well, are frozen, and which have swollen buds.
How to prune roses correctly
When pruning, you should first of all take into account which shoots the rose produces flowers on: on shoots from last year or this year. Next, you need to clearly know what you want to achieve by pruning: abundant and early flowering, extending the life of a plant or a certain bush shape.
Despite the fact that each group of roses has its own pruning rules, no matter what your goal is, there are some general rules that must be followed.
- The cut should have a slight slope. His upper part should be above the selected kidney at a level of 0.5 cm.
Species and once-blooming bush roses
Roses of this group do not require annual pruning. They form flowers on the shoots of previous years, so they need last year's branches for abundant flowering. Every 2-3 years, the oldest unnecessary, bare and dry shoots are removed in order to rejuvenate and thin out the bush, without disturbing the growth form of the bush. They need to be cut close to the ground to stimulate young flowering growth. Trimming old branches at the top will expose the bush. If the roses of this group are not pruned at all, their bushes will age prematurely.
This group includes the most popular roses, for which spring pruning is vital. As a result of spring pruning, plants develop flower shoots that bloom the same year. The intensity of pruning depends on the vigor of growth individual varieties. If low-growing varieties have 3-4 buds on the main shoot, then vigorous varieties have 6-7 buds. At first, this advice is confusing, but the explanation is very simple: the more radical the pruning of roses of a given group, the larger and more powerful the new flowering growth will be. Therefore, shoots of low-growing varieties of roses are shortened greatly so that new shoots grow more actively. For miniature roses, you can trim the shoot to 10-15 cm from the soil level, if possible leaving the top bud located on the outside.
Before pruning, remove the mound of earth that protected the grafting site in winter. At ground level, also remove old and diseased branches, and trim frozen shoots to the green part
By pruning roses of this group, you can keep their growth at a height of 50-120 cm. Especially with hybrid tea roses, you should ensure that only strong shoots remain, and weak ones are removed at the base. Thanks to this, new strong shoots and long straight stems with large individual flowers appear.
Pruning bush roses
Repeat-blooming and long-blooming English roses are pruned to one-third of their length. This does not mean “ruining them to the ground”, this is an absolutely thoughtful step that gives the plant health and stability! In the same way as with roses of other groups, remove all weak and too old shoots. Shrub roses should always have a balanced combination of annual, biennial and perennial shoots.
Ground cover roses are not pruned. It will be enough to remove frozen, broken, interfering shoots. If you want to give the bush a compact shape, then pruning should be done annually. In this case, ground cover roses are pruned in the same way as ridge roses.
Vigorous varieties must be pruned lightly, otherwise the new shoots will be too long. To rejuvenate the ground cover rose bush, radical pruning is carried out every 5 years.
Reblooming climbing roses
Fabulously beautiful repeat-blooming climbing roses require annual pruning. At the same time, all shoots growing in the wrong direction are removed. To stimulate abundant flowering, the side shoots are shortened, leaving 3-5 buds, and densely seated side shoots are also removed. For rejuvenation and complete foliation, shoots older than 6 years are completely removed from old specimens. It is optimal for the bush to have approximately equal numbers of young (one- and two-year-old) and old (perennial) shoots.
How to prune once-blooming climbing roses
The once-blooming climbing roses mainly include ramblers. They grow so fast that their shoots reach from 6 to 12 m! With such dimensions, of course, it is difficult to trim. To some extent, roses of this group do not need pruning. This is at the request of the gardener. If he wants to entwine some tall place with wonderful flowers conifer, from pruning it may appear. If he wants to decorate the wall of the house with roses, it is necessary to prune the bush annually to give it a compact shape, control growth, and also avoid exposing the trunks in the lower part.
From correct pruning Roses depend not only on the beauty of their flowering, but also on the health of the bush, as well as its life expectancy. Of course, in old parks no one has been pruning these plants for decades, and they are doing well, but such tangled thickets look completely unaesthetic. And in most private gardens there is not much space, so it is impossible to do without pruning roses.
Experienced gardeners know that pruning small ones is relatively easy, but working with larger specimens is not a pleasant task. The thorns catch and scratch, the long shoots are intertwined in such a way that it is very difficult to pull them out individually, and some of them do not give in at all, no matter how hard you pull them. It is known that there are garden roses, which have never been touched by a knife or pruning shears.
But even in natural conditions, the rose undergoes “natural” pruning: caterpillars eat leaves and tops of shoots, roe deer feast on soft stems, depriving the rose bush of the opportunity to bloom. Various animals eat and damage the shoots, and sometimes the plant dies as a result of a forest fire. However, a garden is a creation of man, and it must correspond to his ideas, regardless of what they are in each individual case. For a rose, this means that it will not have to grow, wading through the impenetrable jungle of rotten bushes, infected and infested with pests.
On the contrary, in the garden these plants are expected to flower intensively and meet certain beauty standards. Therefore, you simply must take care of the crops. In addition, garden roses in a flower garden have little in common with wild related species.
You will receive detailed information in this material about when it is best and how to prune roses in the garden correctly.
Should roses be pruned and when is the best time to do it?
Naturally, excessively diligent pruning will not lead to anything good. It is necessary to prune roses, but this should not become an end in itself. No one needs pruning in itself. It makes sense only in conjunction with a specific purpose. For this reason, roses must be pruned different times and in various ways.
So, when should roses be pruned in order to meet all the conditions? When to use a pruner or hacksaw:
- At . Remove damaged shoots and roots to make it easier for the plant to take root in its new location.
- Stimulating the growth of new shoots in order to produce the maximum possible number of new flowers. Old and dead woody stems should not interfere with the growth of new, fresh shoots.
- Prevention or prevention of diseases, pests.
- If you want to influence the flowering period or achieve a certain form of growth.
- If the rose grows unevenly or if the plant is damaged: fracture or frost damage. Regulatory pruning will help you shape your plant and ensure its health.
- Formation of root shoots on a grafted rootstock during the growing season. Root shoots must be removed.
- If you need roses for .
- If there is not enough space in the garden.
- If you have purchased a garden that you have not looked after for a long time. Perhaps there are roses growing there that have not been pruned for many years, and you want to return them to their former aristocracy.
So, no one has any doubts about whether roses need to be pruned. Optimal time Rose pruning cannot be determined by a calendar. On the one hand, pruning must be done at a strictly defined time, on the other hand, they can suggest the ideal moment external factors. Luckily, nature offers many options.
When deciding individually the question of when to prune roses, you should remember that this is done not at the final stage of the plant’s life, but at its beginning. Pruning stimulates further planned development of the plant. You can prune roses in spring in early March or even mid-April. In any case, before pruning a garden rose, the moment should be chosen so as to protect the plant from possible severe frosts. It is because of them that roses often die, especially if they were pruned too late last fall.
If the weather is warm after pruning, this will stimulate the active growth of fresh shoots. And if frost hits, then active fresh shoots, like the plant itself, may die.
But the reason for the death or damage of the plant is not its poor frost resistance, but untimely pruning.
To prune roses correctly, as I advise experienced gardeners, you will have to continuously remove old inflorescences and root shoots. Timely removal of old inflorescences provokes the rapid appearance of new ones.
If wild shoots are plucked or trimmed in a timely manner, the plant will not suffer much and will not spend extra energy on restoring health.
How to properly prune garden roses of once-blooming varieties? In this case, it is recommended to wait until the flowering period ends. This way you can create conditions for fresh main shoots to develop in next year in the best possible way. A plant that is densely covered with foliage is more difficult to prune, so such specimens are rarely pruned.
When pruning cut flowers, you will have to be observant and wait for the moment when the rose in the vase reaches its peak of development and resort to some tips so that it lasts as long as possible, maintaining its freshness.
Rules for pruning roses for beginners: stimulating growth (with video)
The plant always reacts in a certain way to pruning with pruning shears or a hacksaw. Therefore, as practice shows, pruning rose bushes must be done consciously and purposefully. Pruning disrupts the balance of the plant's water and nutrient supply system. After pruning, the balance between the volume of roots and the number of above-ground shoots changes. The plant needs time to adjust to the change. After pruning, the buds that were previously in the center or at the base of the shoot - the so-called axillary buds - appear at its top.
When studying the rules for pruning roses, novice gardeners should remember that stimulating the growth of shoot tips primarily accelerates the development of axillary buds. And the development of the kidneys located below is inhibited. They can also be at rest.
This state is supported by inhibitors that form at the top and go down.
As you can see in the photo, after pruning the shoots of roses, the buds that are at the top begin to develop:
In most cases, this impulse concerns not only the buds at the very top, but also those located below. In nurseries, specialists regularly remove shoot tips to produce strong plants with as many shoots as possible. Without such treatment, many varieties would produce only one flowering shoot that grew at the grafting site. The younger the pruned shoot, the sooner the buds that were previously located below will germinate and thereby compensate for the losses of the plant.
However, inhibitors may further inhibit the growth of fresh shoots from the upper buds. In addition, these substances are formed in the leaves, in the axils of which the buds are located. This problem can be solved: remove such leaves immediately after pruning. This will speed up the growth of fresh shoots.
Please note that the growth rate of fresh shoots depends on the location of the bud: The further the dormant buds are from the top, the slower the fresh shoots grow.
Watch the video of rose pruning for beginners to better imagine how this agricultural technique is performed:
In the next section of the article you can see photos and read a description of pruning roses depending on the place where these plants are planted.
How to properly prune roses depending on where they grow
Rules for pruning roses also depend on the place of growth. For example, climatic conditions play an important role. The maritime climate affects plant development differently than the continental climate. The growing conditions in the vicinity of Lake Constance are completely different from, for example, at the foot of the Ore Mountains. In areas where severe frosts are common, care must be taken constantly to ensure that plants do not freeze. Methods for pruning roses in areas where the last severe frosts occur in February differ from those where the arrival of cold weather in April does not surprise anyone.
Conditions can vary even within the same garden. Some plants receive the optimal amount of sunlight, while others are forced to survive in the shade of the house or neighboring plants. Naturally, the latter will produce fewer thin shoots, which must be cut shorter to achieve more intensive growth. The structure and type of soil also greatly influence the development of Rosaceae: the soil can contain a high concentration of humus, be too wet or rich in nutrients, or be poor, such as sandy soil.
The place of growth determines the purpose of use of the plant and dictates how to prune roses correctly. A climbing rose on the wall of a house needs more careful care than one that climbs along a tree trunk. And not only because caring for a rose on a tree is more difficult.
In the end, the plant’s resistance to diseases and pests depends on the place of growth.
If any misfortune occurs, the victim can be helped. To do this, you should take measures and correctly, promptly prune the affected parts of the plant, thereby preventing the spread of the infection.
This photo shows how to prune roses depending on where the bushes grow:
The relationship between pruning and feeding roses
“What is the connection between fertilizing and pruning?” you ask. And the answer lies on the surface.
Never forget that nature is not content with a simple yes-no principle. Many factors act together, complementing each other. One of these factors is fertilizing, or supplying the plant with a sufficient amount of nutrients. After pruning, we expect healthy, fresh shoots to form quickly. For this, the plant needs a whole complex of appropriate nutrients. A novice amateur gardener expects rapid growth immediately after planting, which is very reckless.
First, roots must form that can ensure intensive shoot growth. If the soil is well prepared, fertilizing is not necessary. Rather, it will hinder growth, since fertilizing increases the concentration of salt in the soil.
And this negatively affects the plant’s water supply. In addition, a young rose is unlikely to need a rich complex of nutrients, since at this moment its above-ground part is not yet so developed as to require enhanced nutrition.
And here is the feeding own root roses nutrients after spring pruning is very useful, but the degree of fertilizing must strictly correspond to the size of the plant.
An overdose of nutrients, in particular an overdose of nitrogen, entails the risk of the formation of too large shoots. It is possible that such shoots will grow underdeveloped and become vulnerable to certain diseases. To overcome them, the plant will have to be pruned additionally.
The effect of a lack of nutrients is the formation of a small number of thin shoots with small flowers. It is impossible to grow strong and healthy plants on a weak foundation. You will have to trim the shoots of rose bushes not in the correct way, but so that at least some healthy fresh growth appears on them, that is, shorter and shorter.
How to prune roses correctly: height, direction and length of the shoot
The next point that you need to understand before properly pruning roses is the optimal height, cutting direction and shoot length.
Roses are pruned differently than others. woody plants: shoots are not cut directly above the bud. Parts of the shoot about 2-3 mm long dry out after pruning. If you cut the shoot directly at the bud, the sprouts will not appear at all or will not be viable. There is no point in waiting for something strong and healthy to grow here.
The cutting point should be no higher than 5 mm from the kidney. A greater distance is unprofitable, since the shoot will dry out greatly, spoil the appearance of the plant and weaken its immune system.
It is necessary to cut in the direction from the bud and at an angle.
Sometimes it can be difficult to find buds on woody tissue. They are almost impossible to see. Sometimes it makes sense to look on the stem for the place where the base of the leaf was once located - it looks like an oblique dark scar. The kidney is located directly above this place. If necessary, roses are pruned additionally after the buds have sprouted.
The next relationship concerns the intensity of pruning and the length of the shoot after it. If you cut short and leave few buds on the shoot, they will produce fewer fresh long shoots. If you prune smaller, you will end up with a lot of short, fresh shoots. Using knowledge consciously, it is possible to balance the development of varieties with different growth rates. But achieving a complete balance here will not be possible.
You can grow a small number of roses on long stems or many flowers on short stems. Pruning also allows you to balance the growth of shoots that develop at different rates, meaning you can stimulate or slow down their growth. Moreover, pruning helps to maintain or limit the development of a particular variety.
Tool for pruning roses in the garden
A quality tool is important for both the plant and the gardener. Those who have had to trim vigorous stems before know how difficult it can be and understand the value of a good tool.
The force applied, the comfort of the tool and the load on the tendons are the main criteria for choosing a tool. The first calluses on your hands will make you wonder if an expensive pruner is the best option in the long term.
Young woody shoots with a soft core are sensitive to stress, and their woody shell is initially relatively thin.
Later, the volume of the core decreases, and the shoots themselves become more massive, especially in roses. Such woody shoots are much harder and can be trimmed without extra effort it won't work.
In any case, it is important to use a sharp and well-adjusted tool. A dull pruner cuts inaccurately and injures the plant.
In extreme cases, it tears the bark. The gap between the blades of the pruning shears leads to the fact that the tool can jam and the cut will be of poor quality. It turns out that forces are wasted ineffectively, and, moreover, under such conditions, the cutting part of the tool may simply break, unable to withstand the load. Naturally, this primarily concerns cheap instruments.
High-quality sharpening of the tool is very important for flawless pruning of plants. When re-sharpening, the blade should be sharpened on one side only, which is how most tools on the market today are sharpened. A good pruning shears can always be recognized by the quality of its sharpening. Its blades remain sharp over a long period of use.
Ordinary pruning shears are not suitable for trimming massive perennial shoots. Here it is better to use pruning shears or a hacksaw. However, a regular hacksaw is also hardly suitable for cutting closely spaced shoots. A small folding saw will help here. It fits comfortably in the hand and cuts perfectly.
Spring pruning of roses of different groups
In spring, roses produce their strongest shoots. The gardener's task is to create conditions for lush flowering. Trim off any shoots that look suspicious, that is, those that can cause disease or attract pests. The bushes should not look too massive, but slender and elegant. In other words, their appearance should bring joy. That's why you grow them.
Of course, roses bloom without spring pruning. True, they look like rose hips, which no one really cares for. If roses are not pruned, then many varieties of roses grow taller, but they do not have dense foliage below, and this looks rather sparse. Without pruning, you will also have to forget about the health of the plant, since fresh shoots will not appear from underground.
Tips for pruning can be found in every rose care manual, sometimes they are so varied and complex. It would be good to remember that nature does not ask our opinion about which rose should survive winter frosts and which should not, which should be frozen more strongly and which should not be touched at all. It is clear that there are too many benefits detailed instructions A little. Much more tangible benefits come from understanding cause-and-effect relationships and accumulating your own experience.
The next section of the article provides tips for pruning roses in spring for beginning gardeners.
Pruning roses in spring for beginners (with video)
Winter is over, frosts are no longer expected. It's time to work in the garden. When you first look at rose bushes that need pruning, there is something akin to bewilderment. After all, how can you calmly look at this terrible web of many intertwined shoots, studded with thorns? This is absolute chaos in which it is impossible to restore order. However, a systematic approach to tidying up will help you cope with a task that at first glance seems insurmountable.
This means that you need to cut to healthy tissue. Dead tissue is sometimes difficult to recognize immediately. Therefore, first the shoot must be cut to green bark. But in most cases this is not enough.
The next step is to inspect the core. If it is greenish-white, the cut location is correct. If it is brownish, you will have to trim more.
After a harsh winter with late frosts and warm periods in between, it is difficult to detect all the plant's problems with a quick inspection. Later, during pruning, the damaged shoots may seem quite healthy, but in fact they are not - these shoots will soon die. After some time, they will need to be trimmed again.
You may find remnants of shoots that were pruned last year. Such shoots either do not have buds at all, or they are located on them so poorly that the plant simply does not have enough strength to sprout healthy shoots. Dried remains of shoots not only spoil the appearance of the rose, but also attract diseases and pests. They need to be cut back to the next closest branch point.
You cannot do without pruning shears in case of illness or pest infestation. If you find stems without a pith, then know: this is the work of the roseate descending burner.
Only trimming the shoot to healthy tissue can help here. The same goes for bark cancer. If you do not trim on time, the disease will “circle” the shoot, and all living things on it will die.
Already in February, bright yellow rust spores can often be seen on the stems of roses, with certain varieties suffering from it more than others. Don't waste time and immediately trim off any diseased shoots to prevent the spread of spores. The result is healthy roses and much less plant protection work in the summer.
The next step is to remove all the shoots that grow inside the bush, intersect and interfere with each other. Finally, it is necessary to trim off weak shoots on which fresh growth will not appear.
Old shoots that will no longer bloom luxuriantly should be cut back to the ground or to fresh, healthy shoots below that grow outward. As soon as the shoot grows and becomes thicker, the surface of the wound will need to be treated with a special agent.
Shoots at the grafting site growing from the rootstock that were not pruned last year must be completely removed.
That's all. Trimming is complete. The rose bush looks slender and neat again.
Now watch the video of proper pruning of roses in spring:
How to prune roses in spring for rejuvenation (with photo)
It is not uncommon to see roses that have not been cared for for many years. They look like impenetrable wild bushes. The first reaction upon seeing such “beauty” is the desire to dig up the plant and remove it out of sight. Many people believe that old plants are hopeless, and behind them, that is, healthy pruning, is a waste of time. If the gardener believes that such a rose has a chance to bloom and delight others with its beauty, he decides to improve the health of the plant. In addition, it may be a rare variety that costs a lot of money or is no longer sold at all.
There are no rules that say roses should be dug up and replaced with others after they reach a certain age. If roses grow in optimal location, they maintain beauty and health for many years. Thus, trying to bring an unkempt rose into bloom makes sense.
How to properly prune old roses in spring to rejuvenate the bushes? You need to start with the same steps as for spring pruning. First, remove dead, diseased, damaged branches. If you find fresh shoots near the ground, use them to re-form the plant.
Other shoots that may be frequently sick should be trimmed short or removed completely using a hacksaw. Since all varieties are different, you need to prune them in the spring as much as your experience suggests. Ideally, shoots are shortened to 20 cm; shoots of climbing and bush roses are left longer.
It is very difficult to look for axillary buds on old branches. Simply cutting by eye will not work here. In any case, there are dormant buds on old branches. They wake up after pruning and sprout. Of course, compared to young branches, sprouts on old ones appear much later.
These photos show how to prune roses in spring:
How to properly prune roses in the summer after the first flowering (with video)
After the first main flowering, roses either do not bloom at all, or bloom rather poorly. Most varieties re-bloom around late August to mid-September, but only after new growth has grown for the second time in a year. Repeat blooms are usually luxurious. Depending on the variety, some roses lose their petals at the end of this period, while others, on the contrary, have old flowers remaining on the bush for a long time.
The petals of some double roses tend to stick together, especially in rainy, humid weather, which looks very unimportant, especially in comparison with their former beauty.
Before properly pruning roses after the first flowering in the summer, make sure exactly which variety grows on your site. There are varieties whose flowers or stems quickly dry out and break off, and there are also those on which many fruits grow. They are also called “false fruits.” They can be a wonderful decoration autumn garden, if their color becomes brighter by this time. They also look wonderful in a vase.
First of all, this applies to many varieties of bush roses. Depending on taste, one person prefers a garden decorated with fruits, while another wants to see a lot of flowers. Science says that the fruits should be removed for stronger flowering, as they cost the plant a lot of energy.
Roses with fruits:
Climbing rose variety " Bonica 82» pale pink color.
Climbing rose variety " La Sevillana» color from orange to purple.
Climbing rose variety " Marchenland» color pink.
Climbing rose variety " Masquerade“The color is yellow, closer to autumn it is red.
Climbing rose variety " New Dawn» color pink.
Shrub rose variety " Scharlachglut"The color is crimson, with a yellow eye.
Climbing rose variety " The Queen Elisabeth Rose» color pink.
Watch the video on how to prune roses in the summer after flowering to correctly perform all the techniques:
Summer pruning of roses for re-blooming
Repeated flowering depends on summer pruning of roses. The eyes at the top of the shoot sprout faster than those located at the base. Thus, a plant that is cut short will bloom later than one that is not cut too short.
In addition, from light pruning the density of foliage, which the rose needs for assimilation, that is, for nutrition through photosynthesis, does not suffer. You will also have to break off the stem that holds the flower.
If you look at it more closely, you can see that the upper buds (one or two) are very poorly developed. They are located in the axils of leaves that have not yet fully formed and have not acquired all the feathery leaves.
These undeveloped buds are not able to produce fast-growing and strong fresh shoots and thereby guarantee flowering. Therefore, along with the flower or inflorescence, part of the shoot must also be removed. The remaining top sheet should be fully formed. In hybrid tea and climbing roses, the leaf should consist of five feathery leaves. After the first flowering, the shoot must be cut off above the bud, which is located in the axil of the formed leaf.
How to properly prune a rose in the summer to see the second bloom faster? To do this, you will have to stimulate the growth of new shoots, that is, prune. We already know that foliage is needed for photosynthesis, but at the same time, the leaves produce inhibitors that inhibit the premature development of buds in the leaf axils.
Naturally, one should not expect rapid flowering under the influence of inhibitors. In order not to wait until they are neutralized naturally, you can do the following: simply tear off the entire leaf entirely at its base. Thus, the effect of the inhibitors coming from the leaf will stop, and the bud will begin to develop faster.
Most roses are grafted onto the root collar of a rootstock. Depending on the type, variety and planting location, shoots constantly appear on the rootstock. If these shoots are not noticed and removed, they grow and suppress the grafted variety. Root shoots can completely suppress the scion.
It may even happen that one fine day you go out into the garden and instead of a rose you find a rosehip bush there!
As a rule, root shoots are easy to detect. It grows more intensively than the grafted variety and differs from it in the color of foliage and shoots. In most cases, the root shoots are lighter in color. Its leaves are smaller in size than those of hybrid tea or climbing roses, and, in addition, they consist of more pinnate leaves - from seven to nine. In some bush and climbing roses, in particular those that bloom once, the difference is more difficult to detect, so you need to look more closely.
Cultivars in these groups often have leaves that are very similar in size and number of pinnate leaves to the leaves of the rootstock variety.
Shoots growing from the rootstock must be removed regularly. The sooner the better! When they are still small, they are very easy to tear off. After removal, the site of formation should be cut out clean. In most cases, root growth emerges from underground, from the root. Excavate the place where the growth has formed and completely remove the root shoot.
If you cut off the root growth only on the surface of the soil, then it will not be visible for some time, but its underground part will grow intensively, and then a fresh shoot will grow from it, with two or three additional shoots! It will be much more difficult to remove it.
Please note that the scion has a crown. Everything that grows in the root zone and on the trunk belongs to the rootstock and must be removed. Small shoots on the trunk are easily removed by hand; thicker shoots are trimmed clean with a knife or pruning shears.
Typically, nurseries practice pinching roses with only one shoot at the grafting site. Pinching means shortening the tip of the shoot to 3-5 buds. While the shoots are not woody, they can be plucked with your fingers. The softer the shoot, the sooner its reaction to this intervention will follow: it may even sprout a few fresh shoots from the remaining buds. Thus, roses branch more intensively, and this reliable foundation for good plant shape.
This method of provoking branching can be used later, if after planting the sprouts on several shoots develop unevenly.
The reason for this may be that strong shoots suppress the development of weak ones. In order not to harm the morphology of the plant, you will have to shorten strong shoots and be patient, since this measure will delay the moment of the first flowering by several weeks.
The wait, however, pays off handsomely! After this, the plant will delight you with wonderful flowers for several years. Sometimes it becomes annoying because almost all roses bloom at almost the same time, and the flowering periods themselves are bright, but, alas, short.
Some varieties of rose hips and some related varieties of roses sometimes bloom several weeks before this date, and a number of other varieties a little later. After the period of “flower fireworks”, which depending on the weather can be longer or shorter, the splendor of flowering becomes poorer. And only at the end of summer do young shoots bloom in all their glory. Roses also bloom between these two periods, but not so brightly and en masse.
It happens that the time of some exhibition of small gardening farms or amateur gardeners, a birthday or other important occasion for celebration does not coincide at all with the flowering period. At the same time, the place of the celebration should be buried in a sea of blooming roses!
In a greenhouse, roses can be grown so that they bloom at a certain time, since the “weather” here can be adjusted.
But it is impossible to control frost and heat, humidity and aridity outside the greenhouse. However, pruning can have a significant impact on plant development.
In a private garden, you can use the following trick: using pruning, you can decisively influence the flowering period of the rose.
If you prune roses in summer as described above, then you can expect lush flowering in six weeks.
Early varieties also bloom ahead of schedule after pruning. And the blossoms late varieties with a different biological rhythm you have to wait longer. If you remove the tops of soft shoots that have not yet fully formed, you can reduce the waiting time for flowering to four or five weeks.
If the shoot is already woody and you cut it shorter, then flowers will appear on it later.
If you have enough time, you can plant a test plant, care for it properly and learn how to influence the flowering time. Just gain experience and master the technique of “regulating” flowering well.
Pruning roses in summer to protect plants
It’s strange, but when it comes to diseases and pests, a debate immediately flares up about what means of protection to use and whether it is worth using them at all. In this case, as a rule, two aspects are not taken into account:
- Often we ourselves transfer diseases from one cut point to another, working with dirty pruners or a hacksaw.
- Many defects can be prevented without much difficulty by slightly pruning the plant. Additionally, pruning can help prevent disease.
When pruning diseased shoots, it is not always clear whether we have reached healthy tissue or not? Often you have to cut it again, several times.
Pathogens that are on the bark or in the sap stick to the tool and spread to other shoots and plants. In the worst case, the pruning shears serve not to fight the disease, but to spread it.
You can destroy pathogens, such as fungal spores, using a disinfectant. This precaution is an essential part of gardening. A rule that, unfortunately, is often neglected.
Affected shoots, no matter what - rust, spotting, or - must be cut back to healthy tissue. If rust spores on shoots can only be detected in the spring (remember their striking, bright yellow color), then bark spot and rose sawfly usually affect roses during the growing season. Shoots affected by spotting must be removed in a timely manner, before the disease has “ringed” the shoot and its part above the “ring” is still alive. You need to react immediately after discovering an infection.
The roseate sawfly can be defeated with the systematic use of special chemicals, but no amount of chemicals can save already “drilled” shoots. To protect the plant, only pruning the rose in summer to healthy tissue can help.
For example, this applies to powdery mildew and gray mold. With severe damage to the rose powdery mildew trimming the tips of shoots is more effective than treating infected parts with chemicals.
Flowers affected by gray mold not only look unsightly, but are also sources of infections and diseases. They also need to be removed.
Under no circumstances should you throw cut diseased shoots into the compost, much less leave them lying around in the beds. They must be destroyed to prevent the spread of infection.
What to do with blind shoots?
Remontant varieties consistently produce shoots without flowers and inflorescences. Shoots without flowers are called blind. There are many reasons for this: broken top, insect damage, shock from bad weather, late frosts, lack of sunlight in the shade big trees, lack of nutrients and much more. Sometimes a blind flower bud can be noticed in advance. First it turns yellow and then dies. Some people think that buds do not appear on such shoots at all.
But flower buds appear long before the shoot has fully grown in length. Flower buds form on fresh shoots, the length of which does not exceed a few millimeters, that is, even then it is possible to determine whether the shoot will bloom or not.
Besides, who knows what can happen before the bud opens? Anything can happen in a few weeks, causing the kidney to die.
For a long time, as a rule, before the adventitious buds sprout healthy shoots, the blind shoots remain dormant. In order not to wait too long for flowering, you need to shorten the blind shoots immediately after detection. Blind shoots should be trimmed in the same way as flowering shoots.
In the final section of the article, you will find out whether it is necessary to prune roses in the fall for the winter and whether there are good reasons to refuse this procedure.
Do I need to prune roses on my property in the fall for the winter?
As a matter of fact, it is better not to touch roses in the fall.
Many “proper” amateur gardeners cannot resist putting things in order in the autumn garden. Long shoots get tangled underfoot and get in the way. In the spring they will still have to be cut, so what are you waiting for?
Besides, in autumn it is damp and cold, and you want to do everything quickly. However, if in the spring it turns out that the roses are damaged, and it is not clear why, you should know: autumn pruning is to blame!
Selected roses do not know what a dormant period is, unlike, for example, deciduous trees.
B competently organized conditions roses grow and bloom all year round. Therefore, it often happens that some garden roses have to be pruned before Christmas. The growth process stops only after the onset of cold weather. By the way, the necessary resistance of the plant to frost also begins to develop only at sub-zero temperatures.
If you are still in doubt whether you need to prune the roses in your garden for the winter, then the following are good reasons for refusing the autumn procedure.
If you prune a rose bush in the fall, the same thing will happen to the plant as after spring or summer pruning: the buds will become active, even if it is impossible to notice. In the worst case, if the autumn is warm, the buds may sprout.
It is worth remembering that roses wake up at a minimum positive temperature. And winter frosts, sometimes without snow, are dangerous for an unprepared plant that has not hardened properly. Because of this, the rose may die, even if the winter is relatively mild.
If a rose survives winter, this does not mean that it is no longer afraid of the risks of autumn pruning. The rose is a plant that is one of the first to wake up from winter sleep and sprouts from the buds at the tops of the shoots.
Late frosts during this period are destructive for the plant.
If a rose bush that has not been pruned in the fall starts to sprout, then late frosts pose a much lesser danger to it, since these shoots will have to be pruned in the spring one way or another. Therefore, in the fall, the bush can only be trimmed, especially if the “mess” prevents you from sleeping peacefully.
The solution to the question of whether or not to prune roses in the fall has no of great importance. In any case, only soft, immature shoots need to be removed. By the way, they can bloom. Flowers with frost look as if they were covered with sugar icing. A wonderful decoration for the autumn garden that is hard to miss.
The situation is slightly different with standard roses. Before bending a standard rose to the ground, all soft, unripe parts of the shoots, remaining flower buds and fruit bases must be removed from the bush in order to prevent the plant from rotting in the winter.
