We plant grafted and native roses. How to care for self-rooted roses Excelsa grafted or self-rooted rose
When terms such as “rooted roses” and “grafted roses” are used, novice gardeners do not understand what we are talking about, or rather, they do not see the difference between these two categories. Indeed, both roses are practically no different in appearance.
Is it better for a rose when it grows on its own roots? And what will happen if it is grafted onto other roots? Let's identify the differences between native root roses and grafted shrubs.
All about grafted roses
Many of rose bushes at the market they are presented to buyers as “grafted” rose bushes. They have the top of a variety that is usually not as hardy when grown on its own root system. The lower part - the rootstock - belongs to another, more hardy variety, and sometimes to a wild species of roses.
In order to determine whether a rose has been grafted or not, examine the lower part of the plant: a protrusion in the form of a thickened ring will be visible at the grafting site. Ungrafted roses will have the entire stem the same.
Let's look at an example. If we need strong roses, then the lower part of the grafted bush can have roots climbing rose, for example, R. Multiflora or the “Doctor Hugh” variety, which is extremely hardy and strong, and in addition, shoots very quickly and actively. Even if upper part For some reason it will die, the lower one will give new shoots. The only downside in this case will be that “Doctor Hugh” does not bloom as beautifully as we would like, so it will have to be grafted again.
Another good rootstock for grafting roses is Fortuniana. But it should be noted that in this case it is important not to forget about winter shelter, since these roses tolerate winter less easily. But at the same time, varieties grafted onto this type of rootstock produce much more active flowering than those grafted onto R. Multiflora or Dr. Hugh.
So, when looking for rose bushes for your garden, remember that grafted bushes consist of two types of roses, so when the upper part dies, the lower buds and root shoots will not inherit the flowering properties. New plants may look like wild roses.
Roses on their own roots
“Own root” means that the rose bushes are grown on their own root systems. Some of these plants will be less hardy and more prone to disease until they mature. You can also find varieties that retain weak adaptation throughout their lives.
Before purchasing a rose with its own root system, you must make sure that the variety is guaranteed to be suitable for your conditions. In addition, do not forget that you can graft yourself, so if you really like the plant, buy it, but provided that you have a good rootstock for it.
Most often you can find ungrafted dwarf (miniature) roses. They are indeed more tenacious than their tall, abundantly flowering relatives. Also, wild varieties of roses are not grafted, since they themselves are winter-hardy and strong against any disasters.
Conclusion: The advantage of roses growing on their own roots is the ability to maintain the purity of the variety, even if the above-ground part completely dies. The advantage of grafted roses is resistance to cold and disease.
Which roses to choose, grafted or with their own roots?
Disputes on this topic have not subsided for a century. To decide, it is worth listening to both sides.
Flowering, early ripening.
- Self-rooted roses . Most heritage (old varieties of roses) grown on its own roots. Such plants take root well and grow from ordinary rooted cuttings obtained from original plants taken in old gardens. Self-root roses are propagated by rooting stem cuttings of one rose variety. Such plants will produce several new full-sized stems each year, reaching maximum height and width in 2-5 years, depending on the variety. It should be noted that they do not bloom immediately in accordance with the ripening period, but when they reach the flowering period they give a gorgeous result.
- Grafted roses . Hybrid tea roses became popular in the 20th century, they were obtained by grafting onto another variety. The rootstock had already become a method of mass production of the desired variety. Roses are grafted onto a previously grown rootstock, so they usually reach mature size in 2-4 years. Those. you can save a whole year by getting early blooms.
Morbidity, survival rate. Grafted roses do not inherit, whereas roses with their own roots carry the disease with them when propagating. But from the point of view of survival, one can still argue here.
Self-rooted roses are usually sold in pots in moist soil all year round. When buying a seedling, you can absolutely say whether it is alive or no longer suitable for planting. This plant is very simple, the survival rate in this case is also high. Grafted roses can be sent for sale only in a dormant state, therefore, when purchasing such a plant, we will not be able to find out whether it has retained its viability until the bush comes out of dormancy after it has been planted. In addition, with self-rooted roses you will never have to bother with removing unwanted growth. At the same time, grafted roses require regular removal of new shoots, since they will not be varietal.
Survival . A rose's own root, if it dies from the cold, can produce new varietal shoots. After the death of the aboveground part of the grafted roses, you will have to vaccinate again. A number of experts believe that some varieties grow better on their own roots, while they bloom profusely and are more hardy. Others claim this about grafted roses. However, practice shows that young roses on their own roots at first are not strong enough to fight some diseases, while grafted seedlings show the opposite result.
I found another interesting article:
Initially, flower growers bred roses only from their own roots. Then someone enterprising thought of making a T-shaped cut on the shoot wild rose and insert the eye of another rose into it. There was a time when a cutting of a favorite rose was rooted under a pickle jar. Nurseries planted plots with hundreds of cuttings and waited for them to take root. The introduction of budding brought fundamental changes to the production of roses, and the process of breeding them was significantly accelerated. Latest methods allowed even weak roses to survive on their own roots and, thanks to the powerful roots of the rootstock, achieve presentation.
For several decades now, rose growers have been arguing about the advantages of budding (grafted) roses compared to their own roots. For many years, budding roses were hailed as a scientific achievement. But self-rooted roses also have many advantages: winter hardiness, disease resistance, abundant flowering. In addition, they do not form a rootstock.
The disadvantage of budding roses is that in the northern regions their cultivation requires a lot of effort, otherwise they will freeze in winter.
Preference for grafted or own-rooted roses is not only the result of personal preferences. Sometimes it all depends on the planting material available on the market: some varieties of roses are sold only grafted, others - rooted, and the situation is constantly changing. Due to various transformations in the economic system of rose production, the world's main suppliers modern varieties, like producers of antique and collection roses, began to offer mainly their own root roses. The fact is that budding roses requires certain knowledge, skills and experience. But to simply plant shoots in the ground, you do not need qualifications, and such work can be mechanized in some part.
Endurance and health
The advertisement claims that the two main advantages of self-rooted roses are increased winter hardiness and resistance to the mosaic virus. However, since the virus spreads during the propagation process, using a cutting from a diseased plant will result in a native rose infected with the virus. On the other hand, if a healthy plant is grafted onto a virus-free rootstock, the budded rose will be virus-free. Knowledgeable and responsible rose growers always work only with roses that are not infected with the virus, so it does not matter what breeding method they use.
When the production of budding roses moved from specialized nurseries to wholesalers, these plants began to be sold in the northern regions. Manufacturers recommended planting the rose so that the grafting site is 2.5 cm above the ground. However, there is experience that a budding rose, planted with a graft 2.5 cm below ground level, will be as winter-hardy as its own root.
It has already been proven that the endurance of a rose is determined by its genes. This means that if it is grown on its own roots, it will not become more resilient. George S. Thomas, an American rose grower of the early 20th century, conducted joint experiments with grafted and rooted roses. He ultimately concluded that rooted roses, with the exception of ramblers and species roses, required a climate “free of extremes of any kind” to succeed. This was written by a man who lived exclusively for roses and for roses (maybe that’s why his widow hired a bulldozer shortly after her husband’s death and destroyed all the roses), so his conclusions are trustworthy.
Both budding and self-rooted roses can suffer from problems that arise during the production process for various reasons. For example, budding roses grow very long from the grafted eye to the roots, which, as a rule, creates difficulties when planting in northern regions. At the same time, many of the company's customers were sent their own root roses with an undeveloped root system in small pots. Flower growers call such rooted cuttings “scrambles.” Of course, with very careful care and a lot of effort, they will turn out to be full-fledged plants, but you will have to work tirelessly.
Sometimes nurseries grow some roses on their own roots, offering them to customers as seedlings with a lush, attractive shape. It must be remembered that self-rooted roses rarely have a lush form, and this is only possible if a bushy variety was used for this breeding method.
When buying a varietal rose, flower growers, of course, expect to receive the same plant that nurseries once chose for introduction. However, some varieties, such as Peace and Amber Queen, can be seriously damaged by grafting with weak eyes. This happens either due to negligence or due to haste - if the nursery needed to receive a lot of seedlings in a short time. Such a decrease in the growth energy of budding roses is excluded when breeding rooted roses: a cutting with weak eyes simply will not produce a marketable seedling and, therefore, will not go on sale.
So which is better?
For experienced florist If you use the services of a serious nursery with a good reputation, it does not matter whether you buy a budding or your own rooted rose. It all depends on personal preference. For example, a fastidious florist will purchase a Canadian rose of the Explorer series - rooted, and a hybrid tea - on a rootstock. If you need a specific variety, you will have to take the rose in the form in which it is offered. Typically, antique roses are grown in nurseries on their own roots, and most hybrid tea and floribunda roses are budded.
After planting, gardeners rarely think about the roots of roses, and in vain. If you carefully examine them, you will once again be convinced that both grafted and self-rooted roses have advantages. You often find that best plants were initially grafted, and over time began to grow on their own roots. The fact is that the roots have the ability to grow at the base of the trunk or on any part of the rose that is underground or touching it.
Taking into account all of the above and analyzed, we can draw the following conclusion: nothing accelerates the growth of a rose more than a powerful rootstock, but its own roots eliminate many problems when growing.
Self-rooted roses are a very demanding crop regarding the soil, its structure, humidity, temperature, presence nutrients. Self-rooted roses grow well, bloom and overwinter only on well-drained, deeply cultivated (50-60 cm), light, humus-rich soils with a low standing level groundwater(not higher than 1 m). Heavy, clayey, poorly warmed soils are not suitable for growing own-rooted roses, especially varieties from the Hybrid Tea group.
The area for growing own-rooted roses should have a slight slope to the south or southwest, protected from northern winds. In the absence of a natural slope, self-rooted roses should be planted on raised beds; in this case, good water outflow and soil warming are ensured.
Roses are planted in pre-prepared holes ( potted plants planted with a clod of earth), deepening it by 3-4 cm. With such a somewhat deep planting of the bush, an opportunity is created for additional development adventitious roots.
The distances for row planting of young seedlings are as follows: for Polyantha, Floribunda - 25x50 cm, Hybrid Tea - 35x50 cm, Climbing and other vigorous roses - 100x200 cm. After planting and abundant watering, the holes need to be mulched with humus or peat.
For normal growing season, roses need abundant watering, since many of them have roots in the top layer of soil during the first year of growing season. During prolonged drought, the upper root layer of the soil becomes very overheated, so much so that plants stop growing and flowering. It is necessary to loosen the soil regularly, since after watering and rain a crust forms, which impairs soil aeration.
Annual self-rooted roses on light, deeply cultivated soils grow strongly in August - September. By this time, they take root well, deeply penetrating, highly branched roots with a large number small suction roots concentrated at the ends of the lateral roots. This ensures strong growth of above-ground shoots and abundant flowering. During the summer, liquid fertilizers are given every 10-15 days. For this, a solution of fresh mullein with the addition of mineral fertilizers.
Since most common roses in cultivation are heat-loving, evergreens and they lack natural preparation for winter, then agricultural technology in the second half of summer should be aimed at promoting the ripening of shoots and the cessation of growth. To do this, they stop cutting flowers, and by mid-July - early August they stop nitrogenous fertilizers; Only potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are used. Preparation for winter (October, November) consists of pruning all growing herbaceous shoots and hilling roses to a height of about 15 cm. After established frosts (10-15°), the hilled plants are additionally insulated with spruce branches or a layer of leaves to a height of 20-25 cm. Self-rooted roses During the first year of planting, they require especially careful insulation.
It is recommended to remove the winter cover from roses gradually: after the snow melts, remove insulation material, when the soil is completely thawed, the roses are unplanted, leaving spruce branches on them as shading until the buds begin to grow.
The result of overwintering self-rooted roses in open ground is not so much influenced by low temperatures how much excess moisture is in the soil in autumn and spring. Often well-overwintered plants die in the spring due to soaking and damping off, especially if there is no water drainage in the area and the roses are not removed from the roses for a long time winter shelter.
The relative stability of heat-loving self-rooted roses depends not so much on the stability of the above-ground vegetative mass of the bush, but on the strength of development and stability of the root system. The most hardy in winter and resistant to other unfavorable open ground conditions are varieties with a deep, highly branched root system. After severe damage or almost complete death of the above-ground part of the bush during the winter, such plants are very quickly restored in the spring due to the regrowth of 2-3 buds preserved at the base of the bush.
Weak winter hardiness is characteristic of varieties with a superficial, underdeveloped root system; the roots of such plants are damaged or completely die off when waterlogged or sharp fluctuations in soil temperature. Along with this, the depth of occurrence, the branching of the root system, and, consequently, the strength of growth of above-ground shoots also largely depend on the fertility and depth of soil cultivation.
Shallow-cultivated soil (to a depth of 20-25 m) with a heavy clay horizon underlying the cultural layer limits the possibilities for the development of a full-fledged root system and the above-ground part of the bush. Under these conditions, self-rooted roses, especially varieties with a superficial root system, lag behind in development from those grafted onto rose hips (the height of the bush, branching, and abundance of flowering are reduced).
In a plot with deeply cultivated light fertile soil, many varieties not only keep up with the development of the bush and general resistance from grafted plants, but even surpass them. On the lungs fertile soils The property of increased tillering, characteristic of self-rooted roses, is especially pronounced - the formation of a mass of shoots from the base of the bush. With increasing age, self-rooted roses become more powerful, as the number of tillering shoots continuously increases. In three- to four-year-old self-rooted roses, lignified, thickened areas form at the base of the bush; over the years they grow and serve as an additional reserve for the formation of a large number of primordia of new tillering shoots. When digging up such overgrown old plants, they can be propagated by dividing the bush.
The power of a self-rooted rose bush also increases due to the rooting of the individual stems that make up its composition. Individual stems or groups of stems with new adventitious roots formed at their base can be easily separated as independent young seedlings - to “rejuvenate” the bush.
Own root roses in lately began to be used more and more widely for landscaping cities and towns in our country. The main place should be given to the most promising roses for ground crops from the groups: Climbing, Semi-climbing, Floribunda and Polyantha.
All varieties of climbing roses - small-flowered and large-flowered - and semi-climbing roses are distinguished by high (almost absolute) winter hardiness and unpretentiousness. Climbing and Semi-climbing roses develop powerful root system: for example, in three-year-old plants of the Paul's Scarlet Climber variety, the root length reaches 150 cm. In terms of the growth strength of the above-ground part of the bush and the abundance of flowering, self-rooted plants are not inferior to grafted roses of the same varieties, and often surpass them. In grafted plants, already by the second - in the third year of the growing season, the scion moves to its own roots, and the rootstock dies over the years. All this indicates that it is advisable to grow Climbing and Semi-Climbing roses on their own roots, and not graft them onto rose hips.
Most varieties of the Floribunda and Polyantha groups also grow well and overwinter on their roots, although they are somewhat inferior in resistance to Climbing and Semi-Climbing.
In the Floribunda group, varieties are of particular interest the latest selection, for example Alain, Centenaire de Lourdes, Iceberg, Jiminy Cricket and others, distinguished by their original bright colors and more perfect flower shape than the old Hybrid Polyantha roses. Self-rooted plants of these varieties are unpretentious, resistant to fungal diseases, and overwinter almost without falling.
Own-rooted polyanthus roses are mostly unpretentious in cultivation, and some varieties are distinguished by the highest winter hardiness among heat-loving roses. With poor insulation (hilling up 15-20 cm with earth and covering with a layer oak leaves) 90-100% of varieties such as Denise Cassegrain, Eulalia Berridge, Yvonne Rabier, Rote Teschendorff, Orange Triumph and others overwinter annually.
In the miniature group, many varieties are quite winter-hardy and can be used for ground planting (Bito, Sunshine, Perla de Alcanada, Little Buckaroo, etc.). Less winter-hardy varieties Grenadine, Marilyn, Yellow Doll and many others can be successfully used for potted greenhouse and indoor culture.
Self-rooted plants of most varieties of the Hybrid Tea rose group grow and bloom poorly (especially in the first year of the growing season); Some plants die after planting in the ground, others die during the winter.
The massive loss of young self-rooted seedlings occurs because the root system of hybrid tea roses lags behind other groups of roses in development and remains superficial, fibrous for 1-2 years, with a large number of primary, brittle, quickly dying roots. A “real” root system with large, stable skeletal roots is formed, as a rule, by the end of the second year of vegetation.
Only a few varieties with a rapidly developing, deeply penetrating, highly branched root system can be successfully grown in open ground. These include: Curly Pink, M-me Rene Collette, Morning of Moscow and some others. The best varieties Hybrid tea roses and closely related roses of the Grandiflora group can be successfully grown on their own roots in the southern regions of our country and in greenhouses for cutting.
Roses of the Remontant group grow well, bloom and overwinter on their roots. However decorative qualities The bulk of varieties in this group are lower, therefore, only a limited number of varieties can be recommended for root propagation and cultivation: Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. John Laing, Georg Arends, Eugene Fiirst.
Cold-resistant annual seedlings with their own roots park roses from the groups: Spinosissima, Alba, Lutea, Centifolia, Mossaceae, French and others are characterized by weak resistance during the first year of culture. The massive loss of plants after planting in the ground is explained by the fact that cuttings of park roses take root more slowly and form a stable root system. By the time of planting in the ground permanent place annual seedlings of park roses have almost no above-ground growth; single weak roots die off when there is excess moisture in the soil, drying out, mild frost, etc. Taking into account these features of park roses, it is recommended to grow rooted cuttings of park roses for two years at the most favorable conditions.
The exception is the varieties and varieties of rugosa rose. In representatives of this group of roses, annual rooted cuttings have a well-developed stable root system and fairly strong above-ground growths. Many varieties of this group grow well on their roots.
Old rooted plants can be propagated using numerous root suckers and dividing the bush.
Any gardener sooner or later has the desire to plant roses on his plot. And then the question of choice invariably arises. To begin with, the florist must decide which groups and varieties of roses he would like to grow, and then understand whether these will be rooted plants or grafted ones. Both species have their fans. Some people prefer one, while others constantly breed others. It is useless to argue about which roses are better, self-rooted or grafted. Since each has its own advantages and disadvantages. You need to figure out what the difference is, and then accept the right decision it will be much easier.
Reproduction methods
There are several ways to grow and propagate rose bushes:
- cuttings;
- seeds;
- budding (grafting);
- layering.
Each of the methods is interesting in its own way. It is better to choose a growing method depending on the chosen plant variety. Since each has its own nuances that must be taken into account.
Rooted
Familiarize yourself with the features of your own root roses, and you yourself will understand where to choose.
- They are considered to be 10-15% more productive.
- More stable and unpretentious.
- Cannot be planted in open ground in the first year. They need to be grown, since the root system is still weak and there is a danger of freezing with subsequent rotting.
- Good color is given only for 3-4 years.
- Significantly more durable than grafted bushes. At proper care A self-rooted rose can please the eye for about 50 years.
In Germany there is a rose bush, which can rightfully be called a miracle of nature, since it is about 1 thousand years old and blooms every year.
Vaccinated
Recognize a budding rose by appearance It's not difficult at all. There will be a noticeable cut on its stem with a grafted core from a cultivated variety. This is the main visual factor that distinguishes grafted roses from own-rooted ones. Therefore, when purchasing a seedling, you can easily see the difference and accurately distinguish one species from another. In fact, a grafted rose consists of two plants: a rose hip root, called the rootstock, and a cultivar of rose, the scion.
Let's look at the features of a grafted bush to understand what the difference is.
- A 2-3 year old rosehip is used as a rootstock, so the roots are strong and well developed.
- The seedling is immediately ready for planting in open ground.
- It begins to bloom in the year of planting.
- Requires mandatory suppression of wild growth. The roots of the rose hips will periodically sprout their shoots; if they are not cut off, the cultivated variety of the grafted rose will gradually develop into an ordinary rose hip.
- The ground part is more tender and less winter-hardy.
If your goal is to cut roses, then it is better to choose grafted ones. It will give the desired and abundant flowering much faster. Pay attention! It is better to give preference to this type of roses if you live in southern regions. Since severe frosts can destroy such a delicate beauty.
Own-rooted and grafted roses, what is the difference during storage?
In the event that you dig up rose bushes for the winter and bring them into the house or into storage, you must definitely adhere to temperature regime. Self-rooted bushes must be stored at temperatures from -2 to +6 degrees. If the room temperature is higher than +10, they will begin to vegetate.
Grafted varieties must be stored in cooler conditions. The optimal temperature for them will be from -2 to 0 degrees. And already at temperatures higher than +2 degrees, they can begin to grow.
After reading this material, you will understand how to distinguish a rooted rose from a grafted one. And taking into account your goals and the difference in types, you can make the right choice.
Which roses are better - those with their own roots or those grafted onto rose hips? On sale you can find different options seedlings, and each has its own advantages and disadvantages.
There are a lot of varieties of roses in the world, they all have their own properties and cultivation characteristics. When purchasing a seedling, it is useful to know how it was obtained. Sometimes the planting method, the growth rate of the bush, and the ability to survive the winter depend on this. Rose seedlings come in two types:
- rooted from cuttings and growing on their own roots;
- grafted onto rose hips.
Since the rose was originally imported from countries with a warm climate, where there are no negative temperatures in winter and, accordingly, winter dormancy, it became necessary to graft onto winter-hardy rose hips. It is the grafted roots of winter-hardy rose hips that give the rose increased nutrition, powerful growth, disease resistance and, most importantly, increased winter hardiness.
A grafted rose is a symbiosis of two separate organisms - a delicate rose (scion) and a more powerful rose hip (rootstock).
Most of the modern varieties of roses known to us tolerate frosty winters quite well. Especially under cover made of lutrasil or other similar materials. They can be propagated in a simple way- root cuttings. These roses do not require rosehip rootstock to overwinter, but growers still graft them. This is done to quickly obtain planting material.
Some varieties of roses grow very quickly, while others develop slowly; for the first few years they grow roots, but do not produce powerful shoots and do not bloom. To get a good one in a year or two flowering bush for sale, a thin rose branch is grafted onto a rose hip with strong roots.
What are the advantages of grafted roses? It is believed that a grafted rose is more frost-resistant. Indeed, in the first years, a self-rooted rose is inferior in frost resistance, especially if it is a heat-loving variety. But 3-4 summer plant already quite winter-hardy. Moreover, if the shoots freeze in winter, then there is a high probability that shoots from dormant buds will grow from the root. Well, from a grafted rose, when the shoots die, only a rootstock can grow - a rosehip.
If not correct landing(as well as improper grafting) rose hips produce many shoots. By deepening the grafting site to a certain depth (usually 3-5 cm), a condition is created in which the rose hips do not reject the rose and, without upper growth points, cannot independently create their own crown. When planting a bush, when the grafting site is above ground level, the rose hips stop “feeding” the rose and form its own crown (root shoots). Over time, the powerful rose hips grow, but the rose does not receive enough nutrition and dies. At the everyday level, they mistakenly say that a rose has been “reborn” into a rose hip.
Such growth can appear even with proper planting. If shoots appear that differ in color and leaf shape from the old ones, they need to be cut out.
When planting a bush, when the grafting site is too deep, the rose forms its own roots. Over time, the rose hips may die and the rose grows on its own roots. In some cases it becomes weaker and more vulnerable, in others it grows beautifully on its own roots.
The depth of the grafting site during planting (from 3 to 5 cm) was determined by many years of experience and depends on the density of the soil and the group of roses. Tall groups of roses (climbing, park and English) are planted deeper, low-growing groups (patio, border and spray roses) with a small root collar and small root system are planted higher.
There is no general consensus on which growing method to choose. For several decades now, rose growers have been arguing about the advantages of budding (grafted) roses compared to their own roots. For many years, budding roses were hailed as a scientific achievement. But self-rooted roses also have many advantages: they are no less winter-hardy, resistant to disease, and bloom profusely. In addition, they do not form shoots from the rootstock.
Which roses to choose
Experienced specialists have their own preferences, but the general opinion can be formulated as follows - there are varieties that give the best results on their own roots, and there are also those that are still better to graft.
For ordinary garden lovers, the choice is determined by what is available on the market. planting material: Some varieties of roses are sold only grafted, others - rooted. For an experienced florist who uses the services of a serious nursery with a good reputation, it does not matter whether to buy a budding or an own-rooted rose. It all depends on personal preference. For example, a fastidious florist will purchase a Canadian rose of the Explorer series - rooted, and a hybrid tea - on a rootstock. If you need a specific variety, you will have to take the rose in the form in which it is offered. Typically, antique roses are grown in nurseries on their own roots, and most hybrid tea and floribunda roses are budded.
Rose growers living in the region have a special opinion northern regions. They prefer grafted roses. There are not many varieties that can withstand harsh winters. During the short northern summer, heat-loving roses do not have time to grow powerful mature shoots that can winter well. A good rootstock in this case will give the desired result.
In warmer climates, many rose lovers buy budding roses from nurseries, then take cuttings of the variety they like and root them. Most popular varieties grow equally well on both rootstock and their own roots.
A significant advantage of own-rooted roses is that when transplanting, the overgrown bush can be divided.
Can a grafted rose grow on its own roots?
When planted deeper, roses develop their own roots above the graft point. They provide additional nutrition, but are usually quite weak at first. Rose roots tend to grow on any part of the stem that comes into contact with the soil, and over time, grafted roses may well become self-rooted.
Some gardeners hill up roses or cover them with humus for the winter. In winter, this protects against freezing. If the winter is warm, then in the spring roots appear on shoots sprinkled with soil.
In some cases, the original root of roses rots or dries out, then the plant's own roots help the plant survive. The growth and development of such a bush slows down for a year or two, but after strengthening its own root system, the rose will delight you with powerful shoots and abundant flowering.
There are varieties and varieties of roses (floribunda, hybrid tea) for which deep planting is not recommended. Sometimes this leads to rotting of the grafting site (especially if the soil is too wet or there is melt water for a long time in the spring), and in other cases growth simply slows down, the bush does not produce new shoots of strong shoots from the base. If you like the variety, then you just need to try to root the cuttings to get new rooted roses.
