How to build an attic floor. Do-it-yourself attic roof: drawings and stages of how to build an attic roof for a house. Insulation and ventilation
Attic construction attic space allows you not only to increase the living space of the house, but also to make the structure unusual and beautiful. Moreover, a building with this type of roof can be made in almost any style. Roof attic type, the execution options of which can be very different, are found both in urban areas and in rural areas. Let's look at how to create such a design yourself, and find out what its features are.
Mansard roof - options
This roof has a special slope design, usually consisting of a flat upper part and a steeper lower part. Thanks to this shape, a fairly spacious room appears inside, which can be used as an attic or even turn into a very cozy living room.
The history of attics began in the 17th century, such a roof design was invented by the architect Francois Mansart - it was a derivative of his name that such a roof was named. But this Frenchman was far from the first to implement the idea of economical use attic floor Houses. The mansard roof was first built by Pierre Lescot, also a Frenchman, who worked on the construction of such famous buildings as the Louvre and Notre-Dame de Paris.
On a note! In the 19th century, poor people usually lived on attic floors, but now this floor can appear in the housing of fairly wealthy people.
Nowadays, attics are quite often built during the construction of country houses or small two-story cottages, but the idea may well be implemented when creating other types of buildings. The attic has a number of advantages:
- it is cheaper to build a house with an attic than with two full floors and a roof;
- foundation costs during the construction of such a structure are also reduced;
- an attic can significantly increase the living space of any building;
- it gives the house an unusual and beautiful look;
- it is not difficult to build the structure, the work can be completed quite quickly;
- the attic is always associated with comfort;
- a house with an attic is warmer by reducing heat loss through the roof.
But attics also have several disadvantages. This type of attic space has sloping ceilings, which results in low wall heights, making it difficult to choose furniture. Also, the roof must be well installed so as not to leak and not let heat out of the house - you will have to spend money on good hydro- and thermal insulation materials. And building attics is still more difficult than, for example, a regular gable roof.
Design Features
The attic is a universal element. It was used both for ordinary houses and for the construction of country houses; often this type of attic space was chosen even for the construction of palaces. Of course, it could decorate workshops, commercial buildings, etc. And despite the fact that they were used for its construction different materials, different styles were chosen, the attic still remained an attic - it has certain design features.
So, this building can have a different geometric shape - triangular, broken, have symmetrical or, conversely, geometrically complex and non-standard slopes. It can be located both across the entire width of the building, and only on one side of it relative to the longitudinal axis.
Prices for timber
On a note! If the roof has a broken shape, then the lower part will have very steep slopes with an inclination angle of about 60-70 degrees, and on the top the slopes, on the contrary, will be flat (about 15-30 degrees).
But whatever the attic, it will be located within the walls of the main building. In relation to the external walls, the attic may be slightly wider, but then it rests on the ceiling extensions. If the offset is large, you will have to install additional supports (for example, columns, walls, etc.).
The height of the attic roof cannot be less than 2.5 m, otherwise it will not be possible to create a spacious room under it. Windows, which also need to be provided here, will be manufactured using special technologies using tempered durable glass and a reliable frame. They will cost several times more than usual. A bearing structures can be made of reinforced concrete, metal or wood. But in the case of the latter, it is important to carefully consider fire safety measures.
The mansard roof is a multi-layer structure, which complicates installation. It can be insulated completely or only in the area where there is a living room - where there is heating. But in any case, the design of the attic implies the presence of rafters, a ridge, directly roofing material, heat and waterproofing, vapor barrier layer. The interfloor ceiling will serve as the foundation under the roof.
Rafters for an attic roof must have good load-bearing capacity. The cross-section of the materials used will depend on the angle of the roof slope and cannot be less than 5x15 cm at a pitch of 100 cm. If the slope angle is 45 degrees, then a pitch of 140 cm is maintained.
Attention! In areas where it snows frequently and the amount of precipitation is high, it is recommended to install rafters at intervals of no more than 80 cm.
If the attic will be used as a living space, then it is important to consider that in this case there is a risk of large amounts of condensation forming under the roof. Because of this, pockets of mold may appear inside the structure, fungus may develop, etc. The presence of a large amount of moisture will also negatively affect the insulating properties of the material. That is why it is important to follow all the rules for installing an attic roof, and the heat-insulating material must be reliably protected from moisture not only from the outside, but also from the inside, that is, a layer of vapor barrier material is also located on this side.
Important! Don’t forget about creating roof vents that will allow air to circulate quietly inside the roof structure and help remove condensation.
Types of mansard roofs
There are 4 main types of mansard roofs, which differ from each other in their design features. They can be divided into single-level and two-level. The first are the simplest to implement, usually combined with a sloping or gable roof with a slope angle of 35-45 degrees. The second involves the arrangement of two rooms on different levels. A mixed support system is used here.
On a note! When building an attic under a gable roof, the height of the walls can be no more than 1.5 m, followed by sloping ceilings. With a broken-shaped roof, the ceiling height along the perimeter of the walls is up to 2.5 m.
When building a house, you can choose one of the types of attics - a single-level attic with a gable roof, a single-level with a sloping roof, with external consoles, or a two-level with a special mixed type of supports.
Table. Main types of attics.
| Type | Description |
|---|---|
| In this case, the attic has one level and is located under a regular gable roof. The simplest option, the design of which does not require the use of complex calculations. Rainfall with a simple gable roof goes away on its own, there is no need to equip any additional elements. |
| In this case, the attic also has one level, but the rafter system is performed differently. It looks like four roof slopes are formed. A much larger room can fit under it, but creating such a roof is more difficult. |
| Of the single-level attics, this is the most difficult option. Here the room under the roof is even more spacious. Usually in this case the attic room is shifted to one of the edges of the house. This design allows you to make large vertical windows on one side. The main disadvantages are the complex shape and complexity of construction. But under the edge of such an attic you can make a functional canopy where a terrace, garage or other extension can be located. |
| The most difficult option is the attic, since at least two rooms under the roof are arranged here, located at different levels. When designing a house, such a design immediately becomes part of its structure. |
The attic roof can also have a balcony. It is created according to the principle of window construction. The main thing that load bearing capacity walls made it possible to equip it. By the way, the balcony can also be supported by columns, but in this case it is built above the entrance.
Types of rafters for attics
Rafter trusses can be of two types - and layered. You will have to choose between them depending on the method of attachment to the walls of the house. Hanging ones are simpler and are usually used for houses that do not have a middle load-bearing wall. The rafters rest only on the main walls of the house, without intermediate supports. The width of the span between the walls cannot be large - usually it does not exceed 6 m. If the span is larger (over 9 m), then it will be necessary to install struts and headstocks.
Layered rafters are usually used to create houses with two spans, that is, those that have a load-bearing wall in the middle. In this case, the rafters have three support points - directly this wall, as well as the main ones around the perimeter of the house.
Material for the manufacture of the rafter system
Rafters can be made of metal, reinforced concrete or wood. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. Wooden rafters are environmentally friendly, they are easy to use, and can be easily adjusted to the desired size. But wooden structures are afraid of excess moisture and are susceptible to the formation of mold and mildew.
On a note! Before construction wooden materials it is recommended to process protective compounds, which will extend their service life.
Metal and reinforced concrete structures do not need to be coated with such compounds - fungus and mold do not appear on them. Due to this, they are considered more reliable and durable. But the main disadvantage is that, if necessary, it will be difficult to adjust them on site to the required dimensions, and the slightest error in the calculations can lead to the roof being skewed. Also, a craftsman working with reinforced concrete or metal rafters may encounter other difficulties - this is a large mass of products, which forces the use of special equipment even to lift the elements.
Difficulties and features of arranging an attic roof
When designing and constructing an attic roof, a number of design features should be taken into account, based on which a number of operating rules are formed. For example, the Mauerlat must be secured very securely with anchor bolts. It is he who will experience the maximum load, and therefore support the entire roof. It is additionally recommended to wall up the anchors with cement mixture if the main walls of the house are made of stone, brick and other similar materials.
It is also important to remember correct design and layers of the roof. For example, mansard roofs cannot be covered with metal roofing materials. They get very hot and top floor in the summer it will be too hot, there can simply be no talk of any comfortable living. It is not recommended to use roofing felt as a waterproofing material - when heated, it begins to smell specifically. It is best to cover the attic roof with slate or soft tiles. For thermal insulation, it is usually recommended to purchase mineral wool, which is laid with a waterproofing film on both sides.
A house with an attic is not only an additional living space, but also a respectable appearance for the entire building. Even if the room under the roof is made unheated and is used only in the summer, it still creates a powerful “air cushion” that helps retain heat inside the entire building.
And about that - read on our portal.
Attic project
When drawing up a diagram for the construction of an attic, it is best to do this in different projections in order to see and understand the placement of all elements rafter system. It is very important to correctly calculate the height of the roof ridge, since the size of the area under it will directly depend on it.
When drawing up a design diagram for the construction of an attic roof, you need to calculate the height of the ridge, ceiling and total area of the room.
The minimum height from the floor to the ridge should be 2.5-2.7 m, but if this distance is less, then the room is not an attic, it can only be called an attic. This parameter is established by SNIP standards.
So that all elements are drawn accurately and have the desired location in common system you need to start from a figure with right angles, that is, a rectangle or square - a cross-section of the attic space being created. Based on the sides (height and width of the future room), it will be almost impossible to make a mistake with the magnitude of the angles at which the roof slopes are located, with the location of the ridge, rafters and all supporting elements. When determining these parameters, they must immediately be entered into the drawing.
First you need to find the middle of the width of the front wall. Starting from this point, the parameters of the height of the ridge, the future ceiling of the attic, the location of the wall studs and the size of the eaves overhang are determined.
Due to the fact that each of the structures has a certain number of connecting nodes, which have different configurations, it would be a good idea to draw each of these connections separately in order to understand their features of interconnecting all the elements connecting at this point.
Any rafter system consists of basic elements and additional ones, which may not be present in every structure. The main components of an attic roof include:
- Floor beams, which are the basis for the remaining elements of the rafter system. They stack on capital walls buildings.
- Rafter leg, straight in gable system roof or consisting of two sections - in a broken pattern. In this case, the top rafter is called the ridge rafter, since it forms the highest point of the roof - and the rafters that form the walls of the attic are called side rafters.
- Ridge board or timber - required element for a gable roof, but is not always used when installing a broken roof model.
- Mauerlat is a powerful beam attached to the main side walls of the building. Rafter legs are installed on this element.
- Racks are the supporting elements necessary to strengthen a gable and broken structure. In the latter case, the ridge and side rafters are attached to it, and in the first, the stand is a reliable support for a long rafter. In addition, the racks serve as a frame for insulating and covering the walls of the attic.
- Diagonal bracing elements or bevels further secure the posts or longitudinal beams and rafters, making the structure more durable.
- Beams attic floor They are used in all versions of the attic - they connect the racks, and they also serve as a frame for the ceiling.
- Inter-rafter purlins are installed in the broken form of the roof for structural rigidity.
To be sure that the prepared project is developed correctly, you need to show it to a specialist. Only he will be able to determine whether the attic parameters are correctly selected for the width and length of the walls of the building.
Video: professional calculation of a mansard roof using special software
Material parameters for the construction of an attic roof
If the graphic design is ready, then, based on the dimensions marked on it, you can calculate the amount of materials required for the construction of the attic roof. Materials must be selected according to their characteristics, which must meet fire and environmental safety requirements. For wood, it is necessary to provide special treatment with fire retardants, which will reduce the flammability of the material. So, for construction you will need:
- Boards for rafter legs. Their cross section is selected based on the results of special calculations - this will be discussed in more detail below.
- A beam having a cross-section of 100×150 or 150×200 mm is for floor beams, depending on the chosen rafter system and the width between the load-bearing walls, as well as for purlins, diagonal legs or valleys - if they are provided for in the design.
- Beam with a cross section of 100×150 mm or 150×150 mm for laying the Mauerlat.
- For racks, timber 100 × 100 or 150 × 150 mm is usually used.
- Unedged board for laying the subfloor and some fasteners.
- Annealed steel wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm - for fastening some parts together.
- Nails, bolts, staples different sizes, corners of various configurations and other fasteners.
- A metal sheet with a thickness of at least 1 mm is for cutting out overlays.
- Lumber for sheathing and counter-lattens for roofing material - depending on the type of roof chosen.
- – for thermal insulation of the roof.
- Waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes.
- Roofing material and fastening elements for it.
What section of rafters are required?
Rafters are roofing elements that will support the main external loads, therefore, the requirements for their cross-section are completely special.
The size of the required lumber will depend on many parameters - on the step between the rafter legs, on the length of these legs between the support points, on the snow and wind load that falls on them.
The geometric parameters of the rafter system design are easy to determine in the drawing. But with the remaining parameters, you will have to refer to the reference material and make some calculations.
Snow load is not the same for different regions our country. The figure below shows a map on which the entire territory of Russia is divided into zones according to the intensity of the snow load.
There are eight such zones in total (the last, eighth, is rather extreme and can not be considered for the construction of an attic roof).
Now you can accurately determine the snow load, which will depend on the angle of the roof slope. For this there is the following formula:
S = Sg × μ
Sg– table value – see the map and the table attached to it
μ — correction factor depending on the steepness of the roof slope.
- If the slope angle is me 25°, then μ=1.0
- With a slope from 25 to 60° - μ=0.7
- If the roof is steeper than 60°, then it is considered that snow does not linger on it, and snow load is not taken into account at all.
It is typical that if the attic roof has a broken structure, then for different sections of it the load can have different values.
The slope angle of the roof can always be determined either with a protractor - according to the drawing, or by a simple ratio of the height and base of the triangle (usually half the span width):
Wind load also mainly depends on the region in which the building was built and on the characteristics of its surroundings and the height of the roof.
And again, for the calculation, the initial data on the map and the table attached to it are first determined:
The calculation for a specific building will be carried out according to the formula:
Wp = W × k × c
W– table value, depending on the region
k– coefficient taking into account the height of the building and its location (see table)
The following zones are indicated by letters in the table:
- zone A - open areas, steppes, forest-steppes, deserts, tundra or forest-tundra, windswept sea coasts, large lakes and reservoirs.
- zone B – urban areas, wooded areas, areas with frequent wind obstacles, relief or artificial, at least 10 meters high.
- zone IN– dense urban development with an average building height above 25 meters.
With– coefficient depending on the predominant wind direction (wind rose of the region) and on the angle of inclination of the roof slopes.
With this coefficient the situation is somewhat more complicated, since the wind can have a dual effect on the roof slopes. So, it has a direct, overturning effect directly on the roof slopes. But at small angles, the aerodynamic effect of the wind takes on special importance - it tries to raise the slope plane due to the resulting lifting forces.
The drawings, diagrams and tables attached to them indicate areas of the roof exposed to maximum wind loads, and indicate the corresponding coefficients for calculation.
It is characteristic that at slope angles of up to 30 degrees (and this is quite possible in the area of ridge rafters), the coefficients are indicated both with a plus sign and negative, that is, directed upward. They somewhat dampen the frontal wind load (this is taken into account in calculations), and in order to neutralize the effect of lifting forces, it will be necessary to very carefully secure the rafter system and roofing material in this area, using additional connections, for example, using annealed steel wire.
Once the wind and snow loads have been calculated, they can be summed up and, taking into account the design features of the system being created, the cross-section of the rafter boards can be determined.
Please note that the data is given for the most commonly used coniferous material (pine, spruce, cedar or larch). The table shows maximum length rafters between the support points, the section of the board depending on the grade of the material, and on the pitch between the rafters.
The value of the total load is indicated in kPa (Kilopascals). Converting this value into more familiar kilograms per square meter is not difficult. With completely acceptable rounding we can accept: 1 kPa ≈ 100 kg/m².
The dimensions of the board along its cross-section are rounded up to standard lumber sizes.
| rafter section (mm) | Distance between adjacent rafters (mm) | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 300 | 600 | 900 | 300 | 600 | 900 | ||
| 1.0 kPa | 1.5 kPa | ||||||
| higher | 40×89 | 3.22 | 2.92 | 2.55 | 2.81 | 2.55 | 2.23 |
| 40×140 | 5.06 | 4.60 | 4.02 | 4.42 | 4.02 | 3.54 | |
| 50×184 | 6.65 | 6.05 | 5.28 | 5.81 | 5.28 | 4.61 | |
| 50×235 | 8.50 | 7.72 | 6.74 | 7.42 | 6.74 | 5.89 | |
| 50×286 | 10.34 | 9.40 | 8.21 | 9.03 | 8.21 | 7.17 | |
| 1 or 2 | 40×89 | 3.11 | 2.83 | 2.47 | 2.72 | 2.47 | 2.16 |
| 40×140 | 4.90 | 4.45 | 3.89 | 4.28 | 3.89 | 3.40 | |
| 50×184 | 6.44 | 5.85 | 5.11 | 5.62 | 5.11 | 4.41 | |
| 50×235 | 8.22 | 7.47 | 6.50 | 7.18 | 6.52 | 5.39 | |
| 50×286 | 10.00 | 9.06 | 7.40 | 8.74 | 7.66 | 6.25 | |
| 3 | 40×89 | 3.06 | 2.78 | 2.31 | 2.67 | 2.39 | 1.95 |
| 40×140 | 4.67 | 4.04 | 3.30 | 3.95 | 3.42 | 2.79 | |
| 50×184 | 5.68 | 4.92 | 4.02 | 4.80 | 4.16 | 3.40 | |
| 50×235 | 6.95 | 6.02 | 4.91 | 5.87 | 5.08 | 4.15 | |
| 50×286 | 8.06 | 6.98 | 6.70 | 6.81 | 5.90 | 4.82 | |
| total amount of snow and wind load | 2.0 kPa | 2.5 kPa | |||||
| higher | 40×89 | 4.02 | 3.65 | 3.19 | 3.73 | 3.39 | 2.96 |
| 40×140 | 5.28 | 4.80 | 4.19 | 4.90 | 4.45 | 3.89 | |
| 50×184 | 6.74 | 6.13 | 5.35 | 6.26 | 5.69 | 4.97 | |
| 50×235 | 8.21 | 7.46 | 6.52 | 7.62 | 6.92 | 5.90 | |
| 50×286 | 2.47 | 2.24 | 1.96 | 2.29 | 2.08 | 1.82 | |
| 1 or 2 | 40×89 | 3.89 | 3.53 | 3.08 | 3.61 | 3.28 | 2.86 |
| 40×140 | 5.11 | 4.64 | 3.89 | 4.74 | 4.31 | 3.52 | |
| 50×184 | 6.52 | 5.82 | 4.75 | 6.06 | 5.27 | 4.30 | |
| 50×235 | 7.80 | 6.76 | 5.52 | 7.06 | 6.11 | 4.99 | |
| 50×286 | 2.43 | 2.11 | 1.72 | 2.21 | 1.91 | 1.56 | |
| 3 | 40×89 | 3.48 | 3.01 | 2.46 | 3.15 | 2.73 | 2.23 |
| 40×140 | 4.23 | 3.67 | 2.99 | 3.83 | 3.32 | 2.71 | |
| 50×184 | 5.18 | 4.48 | 3.66 | 4.68 | 4.06 | 3.31 | |
| 50×235 | 6.01 | 5.20 | 4.25 | 5.43 | 4.71 | 3.84 | |
| 50×286 | 6.52 | 5.82 | 4.75 | 6.06 | 5.27 | 4.30 | |
Tools
Naturally, during work you cannot do without tools, the list of which includes:
- Electric drill, screwdriver.
- Building level and plumb line, tape measure, square.
- Axe, chisel, chisel, hammer
- Circular saw, jigsaw, hacksaw.
- Carpenter's knife.
Installation will be accelerated if the tools for the work are of high quality, and the work will be carried out with competent mentors and assistants, carefully and step by step.
Installation stages
It is necessary to strictly follow the sequence of work - only under this condition the structure will be reliable and durable.
Mounting the Mauerlat
Installation of any rafter system begins with securing a powerful supporting structure to the end of the side walls of the building. timber - mauerlat, on which it will be convenient to install rafter legs. The Mauerlat is made from high-quality timber with a cross-section of at least 100 × 150 mm. It must be laid on roofing felt waterproofing laid along the upper end of the wall (regardless of the material).
Due to the Mauerlat, the load will be evenly distributed over the walls and transferred to the foundation of the building.
The Mauerlat is secured to the wall using metal pins, which are pre-embedded in a concrete belt or crown running along the upper edge of the wall, or with anchor bolts with a diameter of 12 mm. They must go into the wall at least 150 — 170 mm. If the Mauerlat is installed on a wooden wall, then the beams are attached to it using wooden dowels.
Installation of truss structure
- Installation of the rafter system begins with the installation of floor beams. They can be attached to the mauerlat from above if the beams are planned to be moved outside the perimeter of the building and thereby increase the area of the attic. In this design, the rafter legs are fixed to the floor beams.
Floor beams fixed on top of the Mauerlat (Fig. A) - In another case, they can be stacked on waterproofed walls and fastened with corners or brackets to the inner edge of the Mauerlat. This option is used when the rafter legs are planned to be attached directly to the mauerlat.
Another option is that only the rafter legs are attached to the Mauerlat - Next, you need to find the middle of the floor beam, since this mark will become a guideline for determining the location support posts and a skate.
- The racks should be located at the same distance from the marked middle of the floor beam. They will subsequently determine the location of the walls of the attic room, that is, its width.
- The bars for the racks must have a cross-section equal to size floor beams. Construction structures are attached to the beams using special corners and wooden overlays. However, to begin with, they are first nailed, then carefully leveled using building level and plumb line, and only then they are thoroughly secured, taking into account future loads.
- When the first pair of racks is installed, they are fastened together from above with a bar, which is called a tie. This tightening is also connected to the racks using special metal corners.
- After securing the tie, you will get a U-shaped structure. Layered rafters are installed on its sides, the second end of which is attached to the floor beam or placed on the mauerlat.
- On installed supports a special recess (groove) is cut out for the timber or in the rafters. With its use The rafters are tightly installed on the Mauerlat beam and secured with metal brackets.
- To provide rigidity to the structure, additional struts can be installed from the base of the rack to the middle of the installed side rafters. If this does not seem enough, and saving material is not in the foreground, then you can strengthen general design also with additional stands and contractions (they are indicated in the drawing, Fig. A, by translucent lines).
- Next, while tightening, the middle is calculated - the headstock will be attached to this place, supporting the ridge connection of the upper hanging subsystem of the rafters.
- The next step is to install the ridge rafters, which can be fastened together with various connections - this can be a metal plate or powerful bolts with metal plates or washers.
- After installing them, the headstock is attached to the ridge and the middle of the tightening.
- Having completed work on one part of the rafter system, you need to make all the rest according to the same principle. The distance between adjacent rafters in such a system should be no more than 900 — 950 mm, but the optimal interval would probably still be 600 mm - this will provide the necessary rigidity and stability of the structure, and will be convenient for insulation using standard mineral wool mats. True, this makes the structure heavier and will require more materials.
- First, the side parts of the system assembly are installed, and then the intermediate parts. They are connected to each other by purlins, which are installed between the upper ends of the racks and act as spacers. Thus, you will get a rigid structure of the attic rafters, in which the frame for wall cladding will already be ready.
Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters
Rafter fasteners
Waterproofing attic roof
When the rafter system is built, you can proceed to finishing it and accompanying materials.
- The first coating that should be fixed directly on top of the rafters will be a waterproofing and windproof film. — it is attached to the rafters using staples and a stapler, starting from the cornice. The canvases are laid with an overlap of 150
- 200 mm, and then the joints are glued together with waterproof tape. — On top of the waterproofing, a counter-lattice is placed on the rafters, which will more reliably fix the film on the surface and create the necessary ventilation distance between the windproof and roofing material. The counter-lattice is usually made from boards 100 wide — 150 mm and thickness 50
- 70 mm.
- The sheathing is fixed perpendicular to the counter-lattice, on which the roofing material will then be laid. The pitch between the slats must be calculated depending on the type and size of the sheet roofing material, taking into account the overlap required for it
If a soft roof is chosen, then plywood sheets are most often fixed to the counter-lattice.
Roofing installation The roofing material is attached to the prepared sheathing or plywood. Its installation usually starts from the roof eaves and proceeds in rows, from one of the edges - depending on the type of roof. Roofing sheets mounted with overlap. If used for coating metallic profile
or metal tiles, then such material is secured with special self-tapping screws with elastic gaskets. Fastening elements are usually matched in color to the roofing material.
The most difficult thing in covering an attic sloping roof is the transition from layered side rafters to hanging ridge rafters. There may be certain difficulties if the roof has projections for installing roofs over balconies or windows.
In addition, if a chimney pipe goes onto the roof, it requires a separate design of the hole inside the rafter system and an insulating layer, and on the roof, reliable waterproofing must be installed around the pipe.
You can find out in detail how and what is the best way to cover a roof on our portal; there is a whole section where you can find answers to many questions, including recommendations for reliable insulation of an attic room.
Prices for popular types of corrugated sheets
Corrugated sheet
It should be noted that the work of constructing any roof, and especially one as complex as an attic roof, is not only responsible, but also quite dangerous and requires special, increased safety measures. If you have no experience in carrying out such construction processes, then it is better to entrust their implementation to professionals or perform all actions under the supervision of an experienced craftsman, and with the utmost care and precision.
An attic, which makes it possible to effectively use the floor space of a private house, is a rather complex design. As a rule, homeowners entrust its construction to experienced roofers. But if you are skilled in carpentry and are not afraid of difficulties, then you can certainly cope with the task yourself. The first step is to obtain theoretical knowledge of how an attic roof is calculated and built with your own hands according to individual drawings. This information, presented in the form step by step guide, you will find in this article.
Choosing a roof design
For the installation of an attic floor, instead of a conventional attic, they are suitable following types roofs (shown in the diagram below):
- regular gable with a slope of 45° or more (steep);
- broken roof;
- four-slope, half-hip.
Note. As can be seen from the diagram, various half-hip roofings are complicated gable roofs, so there is no point in considering them separately. In terms of design, the multi-gable structure shown in the photo is of interest, but its construction requires considerable experience.
The gable mansard roof is the simplest to implement and is economical in terms of material consumption. But you will have to pay for this with a smaller usable area and sloping walls of the attached floor, which do not allow the placement of tall furniture. This will not become a problem if you plan to set up a bedroom in the attic - the beds will easily stand near the longitudinal walls. Another way to solve the issue is to raise the rafter system to the required height, as shown in the drawing below.
Roofing with broken shapes is the most popular option, since it allows you to create full-fledged living rooms upstairs. If you do not provide protruding windows on its slopes, then in terms of installation technology such a roof is not much more complicated than a gable roof, although the consumption of building materials will increase. To make your choice easier, we suggest considering and comparing the 3 most common options for an attic superstructure for a private house with standard dimensions of 6 x 6 m:
- Steep roof with two slopes inclined at an angle of 45°.
- A broken structure, where the lower rafters are inclined at an angle of 60°, and the upper ones - 30°.
- The same as option 1, only the trusses are raised to a height of 60 cm, and the rafter legs are at an angle of 37.5°.
For convenience, we depicted all three structures on one drawing, which can be taken as a basis for future construction.
Note. A board with a cross section of 50 x 150 mm was taken as the main building material for the manufacture of rafters and other frame elements.
To choose the best of the three options, we suggest studying the comparison table, which presents the parameters attic premises based on 1 linear meter building length.
Knowing the length of the roof slopes indicated in the plate, you can approximately estimate the consumption of building materials for the frame, covering and insulation. The following table makes it possible to estimate the total area of the rooms on the second floor when implementing all 3 solutions in private houses with different sizes.
Calculation of the rafter system
The rafters of a do-it-yourself attic must withstand the following loads throughout its entire service life:
- own weight;
- weight of roofing and insulation;
- maximum gusts of wind for a given area;
- snow cover pressure.
Reference. When the roof slope is more than 45°, the snow practically does not linger on it, and at 60° it is not taken into account at all in the calculations. But wind pressure increases due to the height of the structure and its position, which is close to vertical.
The result of the calculations should be 2 parameters - the cross-section of the rafters with beams (otherwise known as tie rods) and the pitch of their installation. It is a mistake to think that the size of the wooden beams of the roof grows along with the loads on it. Maximum structural rigidity is achieved through the use of trusses made from logs with a diameter of 120-200 mm or lumber with a thickness of 40 to 200 mm, installed in increments of 50-120 cm. If you are not a civil engineer, you will not be able to determine these values more precisely, since the methodology quite complicated.
Online calculators posted on the Internet do not solve the issue, because their calculations still need to be checked. The solution is this: use ready-made data that has been calculated a long time ago. To do this, you will need table No. 1, which shows the cross-sections of rafter legs at different lengths and loads:
We will explain the calculation method with an example. Let us assume that the snow load is flat surface(projection of a pitched roof) in your area is 100 kg/m², the slope is 60°, the span length is 4.5 m (before the brace), the pitch of the rafters is 120 cm. The roofing is slate. We count:
- Real weight of snow cover: 100 x 0.32 = 32 kg/m². The slope coefficient of 0.32 is taken from Table 2 below.
- The specific gravity of a slate covering with a regular profile is 25 kg/m².
- Total specific gravity – 32 + 25 = 60 kg/m².
- We calculate the specific gravity per 1 linear meter of rafters, multiplying 60 kg/m² by an installation step of 1.2 m. We get 72 kg.
- We return to table No. 1 and select the cross-section of the beam according to the span length. We accept a load of 100 kg per 1 line of rafters (with a margin). A log with a diameter of 140 mm, a board 40 x 200 mm and other materials whose dimensions are in the same horizontal line are suitable.
Reference. When installing a sloping mansard roof, 2 types of rafters are used - layered and hanging. On a gable roof, only hanging roofs are used; the difference between them is shown in the diagram.
The last table No. 3 will help you correctly determine the installation interval of roof trusses:
The proposed method is suitable for small houses rectangular shape dimensions 6 x 6 m. To build a mansard roof on a large cottage, it is strongly recommended to contact specialist designers for calculations.
Frame making
The simplified method presented below involves the installation of an attic sloping roof in 2 stages: assembly of roof trusses on the ground and subsequent installation on finished walls of timber or log house. The structural material is boards with a section of 15 x 5 and 10 x 5 cm with a standard length of 6 m.
Start of assembly - formation of the upper chord of the rafter system
The technology looks like this step by step:
- Prepare the beams of the lower chord of the truss, taking into account roof overhangs of 25-27 cm on each side. If the length of the beam is not enough, it needs to be increased using an overlay of the same section, nailed.
- Lay the beam on the ground and attach vertical posts to it with corners, forming the walls of the attic room. Install the ceiling beam and the ridge support (headstock), then attach two boards to it and the corners of the frame hanging rafters for marking, as done in the photo.
- Cut the elements into place and secure them. From the remaining parts of the boards, make layered (lower) rafter legs in the same way and nail them to the frame. The farm is ready.
- Make the remaining trusses using the same method.
Advice. As a rule, windows or doors to the balcony are provided on the front gables. It is also convenient to make racks and belts for their installation on the ground, as well as to cover the openings with clapboard.
How to quickly and accurately assemble rafters for the attic is described in the video:
The finished frames are lifted onto the walls and fixed in place one by one, starting from the first gable. To prevent it from falling, install spacers and nail them to the walls of the log house. The second and subsequent trusses are placed in the design position and connected to each other with boards.
After placing the rafters, they must be secured to the walls in the following ways:
- staples to the second top crown of logs or beams;
- on steel corners and galvanized screws, as shown in the photo.
Note. Installation on brick and other solid walls is carried out using a mauerlat - a wooden beam laid on load-bearing structures along the entire perimeter of the building. In turn, the Mauerlat is mounted on studs or anchor bolts, and between it and the stone wall a waterproofing layer of roofing felt is installed. Mounting unit looks like that:
The next step is laying on top of the rafter system diffusion membrane– a film that protects from wind and precipitation, but allows water vapor from the insulation to pass through. Roll out the first sheet at the bottom of the roof and secure it to the boards with a stapler, lay the next one with an overlap of 10-15 cm. When you have covered the entire roof, nail the sheathing boards. The installation is shown in more detail in the video:
The roofing covering is laid on top of the sheathing - slate, metal tiles, and so on. The technology of installation and fastening depends on the selected material.
Attic insulation
Since the attic space is planned as a residential space, it should be well insulated. Of the thermal insulation materials, it works best with wood. mineral wool, because it allows moisture to pass through and allows it to “breathe”. The layer thickness is at least 150 mm, and in northern regions– up to 300 mm. Insulation is carried out in the following order:
- Cut the mineral wool slabs and insert them spaced between the rafters.
- To insulate the gables, nail additional posts and lay insulation between them in the same way.
- If the width of the rafter legs is not enough to create thermal insulation of the required thickness, after laying the first layer, nail horizontal counter-lattice bars to them. Insert the second layer slabs between them.
- Cover the insulation from the inside vapor barrier film, laying it with an overlap of 15 cm and gluing the joints with aluminum tape.
- Nail the sheathing strips on top for cladding with plasterboard or other finishing material.
Important point. When laying insulation, make sure that between it and windproof membrane a ventilation duct of 3-5 cm remained. Through it, the moisture formed in the mineral wool due to the occurrence of the dew point will be removed.
The process of thermal insulation of the attic is clearly shown in the next video:
Conclusion
Construction of an attic roof is a labor-intensive task and you cannot overcome it alone. Most work needs to be done with an assistant, and lifting trusses will require 3 people. Also, the success of your event largely depends on the correctness of the initial calculations. If the calculation methodology confuses you, and there are no smart engineers nearby, consult with experienced craftsmen– roofers, whose competence there is no doubt. They will suggest the right solution and, perhaps, tell you about the details of installing such systems.
Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.
Related posts:
It is difficult to imagine the modern design of a cottage or house without the presence of an attic floor. It is also being built everywhere in old houses in place of a dilapidated attic, thereby increasing the total living space. A do-it-yourself attic is a complex project, but doable.
Do-it-yourself attic construction - first steps
In fact, this is not so - most experts in the field of attic construction unanimously claim that from the angle of inclination and other changes in the design of the rafters, the walls experience enormous load and are subject to significant deformation. Therefore, before making an attic yourself, we highly recommend contacting a specialist so that he can carry out preliminary calculations and, based on them, draw up a design for a rafter system that is suitable in your case.
Construction of houses with an attic - choosing the right technology
Today there are quite a lot of buildings that have a clearly defined attic. This is either a completely new house, where the attic was designed in advance, or it is attached to an old building, which was originally thick-walled and solid. The easiest way to recognize an attic is by its gable sloping roof - this is the most suitable design for building an attic floor.
Using a gable sloping roof puts a huge load on the walls of the house compared to a pitched roof. However, for an attic room it is much more convenient, since it creates a lot of space inside.
A gable broken structure has a drawback - in the absence of a sufficient number of load-bearing supports, the roof is less durable in comparison with a single-pitch roof roofing system, and additional load-bearing supports put additional pressure on the walls. The construction of a gable sloping roof, as a rule, requires the use of layered rafters that require massive walls buildings that can withstand vertical and horizontal loads.
How to build a house with an attic - roofing system
The convenience of the attic space determines the ability to move around full height under the rafter system. Please note that for insulation you will need to allocate from 10 to 15 cm from each surface, including the ceiling. So the first impression about the height of the attic may be wrong. However, the safety of the entire structure should be put in the first position. To install additional reinforcing beams, it would be correct to cut off some part of the attic rather than risk destroying the entire roof frame.
Before you build a house with an attic, prepare the necessary tools and materials. Everything is simple with tools: a hammer, a hacksaw or a jigsaw, all kinds measuring instruments. Materials - nails or screws of various lengths, antifungal agent, 40 * 150 mm board for lathing at intervals, for creating a continuous sheathing - OSB sheets.
The type of roof covering determines the design of the sheathing. If you plan to use soft material for the roof, then the best option would be continuous lathing, and if it’s hard, install the sheathing in a running motion using your own hands. In the process of installing a wooden frame (rafters and sheathing), you should immediately make places for the location of roof windows. It is also necessary to think in advance about reliable fastening window frames
Attic in a private house - auxiliary elements
There are primary and secondary elements of the attic. The first includes insulation, rafters and supporting structures, and the second includes windows, doors and drainage systems. Both play an important role. The hardest thing can be to decide on the windows. Before you start choosing windows for the attic, you need to clearly understand their purpose in terms of functionality. Today, the building materials market offers the buyer two types of windows - inclined and vertical.
It is known that the first ones are mounted directly in the roof plane and transmit 40–45% more natural (sun) light than vertical ones. But in winter, the slanted windows are covered with snow, which negatively affects both the overall illumination of the room and their technical condition. The doors to the attic act as a kind of connecting link between this room and the main building. They should be selected according to two main criteria: the first is strength, the second is good properties thermal insulation.
In addition, the doors should not stand out from the overall interior and there should be a free entrance to the attic through them. Creating an attic with your own hands is impossible without a drainage system. In this regard, it is much easier with vertical windows, since they come complete with ebbs, but when installing inclined windows, it is necessary to carefully consider the gutter system in advance, otherwise the room located under the attic will constantly experience the negative effects of excess water and moisture.
1.What kind of roofs can be used for mansard buildings
2. Why attics are becoming popular
3. What types of mansard roofs are there?
4. What you need to know when building an attic
5. Requirements for mansard roofs
6. Possibility of using the attic floor
The final stage of any construction is the installation of the roof, and in the case of building the roof of a private house, it is important to determine not only the materials necessary for the work, but also the design and shape of the roof.
The most rational ones today are mansard roof projects, through which you can significantly save money and equip additional premises.
In this case, it becomes possible not only to make the attic look more attractive, but also to use it to increase living space. By what criteria can you understand that this is an attic floor?
Firstly, it is located on top floor. Secondly, to create its façade, a broken or sloping roof is used either partially or completely.
Considering construction requirements, then the level of intersection of the roof with the facade should not exceed 1.5 meters from the attic floor.
If the attic roof design does not provide for this, then the room cannot be called an attic - it will remain well equipped, but still an attic.
Architects note that mansard roofs give any home a special presentability, and also help increase its practical functions.
If, when planning the attic floor, it is difficult to place interior spaces into a conventional triangle, then choose a more suitable angle of the attic roof, for example, with broken slopes, as shown in the photo.
The main advantage of attic buildings is the possibility of using an existing foundation, that is, even with capital construction, the area land plot will remain unchanged.
In a word, this roof is an economical option for arranging additional living space, used in modern construction.
What roofs can be used for attic buildings
Depending on the type of roof you choose, you will get an attic of one shape or another, as a rule, they are triangular, broken, asymmetrical, located throughout the house or in a specific part of it.
Types of mansard roofs:
- The most simple option The installation of a pitched roof is considered.
This roof looks like inclined plane, fixed to different heights load-bearing walls. Such variants of mansard roofs are very rare due to the significant reduction in internal space.
- Very popular among developers are tong or gable roofs, consisting of two slopes fixed in opposite directions. This type of roofing is characterized by ease and speed of installation, as well as high structural strength.
- In the attics of small houses or dachas (see: “Attic in a dacha, advantages and disadvantages”), sloping roofs, which are a subtype of gable roof, look good (read: “What types of roofs with an attic are there”).
- Hip and half-hip roofs are considered more complex in design (they are referred to as hipped roofs).
It is noted that such projects of houses with a mansard roof are aimed at maximizing the use of usable space.
- On rounded and polygonal buildings, a domed, pyramidal or conical roof will look great.
In this case, a mansard-type roof is erected in several stages and requires maximum accuracy in calculations.
Why attics are becoming popular
The increase in demand for the construction of attic premises is due to a number of reasons, including:
- equipment of additional living space without using an additional plot;
- external attractiveness of the building;
- the possibility of increasing construction density;
- expansion of an already used house, while residents do not need to move anywhere;
- short construction period;
- A minimum budget is sufficient to install the premises.
What types of mansard roofs are there?
Among the large number of proposals, you should pay attention to the main options for the attic roof used in construction:
- a gable or sloping roof;
- for a single-level structure, remote consoles can be installed;
- the construction of a two-level attic can be done using supports of a mixed type (read also: “ Finished projects baths with an attic").
When selecting the types of mansard roofs, it is important to take into account the level of expected load on the structure as a whole.
Even if the owner of a cottage or house does the construction of the attic on his own, the creation of the project and calculations of maximum permissible loads are entrusted to specialists. As for the style of roofing design, there are a lot of options offered here, varying in appearance and cost, however, initially the choice must be consistent with the operational and design requirements(see: “Attic roof: features and stages of construction”).
What you need to know when building an attic
Independently draw up a project for the attic roof of a private house and carry it out correctly installation work Not everyone succeeds, so it is better to immediately assign responsibility for the implementation of planned activities to professional builders (read also: “ Possible projects attic houses").
Before starting to create a project, you should analyze the layout of the base of the building and the structure of its roof.
If the design of an attic roof is carried out as an additional floor to a long-used house, then an assessment of the quality of its foundation and load-bearing base, as well as the level of possible load on them, is required.
One-story houses with an attic are becoming increasingly popular.
Since the attic structure must be very light, the appropriate building materials are purchased.
Attic sloping roof, detailed in the video:
Requirements for mansard roofs
All projects of attic roofs of private houses are drawn up taking into account the requirements listed below:
- Roofing materials must have a minimum weight.
Metal tiles are perfect for this, metal sheets And so on.
- For internal and external cladding work, as well as the construction of partitions, light profiles or plasterboard are used.
- Because of large area surface in contact with the external environment, the level of heat loss in the attic is much greater than in the lower floors, so special attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the roof. Builders, as a rule, recommend mineral wool or any modern lightweight insulation.
Additionally, vapor barrier and waterproofing are installed (read also: “Attic in a private house - stages of superstructure”).
Possibility of using the attic floor
It should be noted that roof designs with an attic can be created for any residential space, including a bedroom, office, children's playroom, gym or gym for the personal use of home owners. And when you glaze the structure in the attic, you can create your own vegetable garden or green corner (read the article: “Roofs of houses with an attic: shapes and varieties”).
Today, having an attic in the country is not only a normal activity, but also an indicator of the owner’s material well-being.
location additional floor it depends on personal preference - someone will take up all the free space, and one will be enough to do only part of it. But in addition to the heavy lifting part of the imagination, you need to know how to build a loft, taking into account all the nuances of a particular room. Accurate planning and the right choice of building materials ensure a satisfactory result and comfortable housing placement.
MANSARD DESIGN
When constructing an attic space in a wooden house, the following must be taken into account:
- The surface area depends on the angle of the roof.
The greater the slope, the greater the surface area.
- Roof shape. The best option is a slippery roof that helps to rationalize the space.
- Characteristics of the design of future spaces and the structure of the entire building.
Particular attention should be paid to auxiliary elements.
- Load it up on the roof. Where necessary, rafters are installed to increase the strength of the structure.
- Arrangement of communication system elements in accordance with fire safety requirements.
- The need to install windows.
The distance from the ground to the middle of the window is no more than 200 cm. Optimal lighting is achieved if the window size is one tenth of the floor area.
For maximum correct calculation Load-bearing elements of the attic structure should be carried out at the stage of preparation of the new building. The building layout includes beams, supports, posts, rafters and wall reinforcement. In this case, the maximum height of the superstructure should be 2.2 m, and its width should be at least 3 m.
Additionally, you should carefully consider where the stairs and windows will be.
WOOD MACHINERY PRODUCTION
The optimal solution for choosing materials for an additional floor frame is wood. In addition to the aesthetic appearance, wooden walls have low conductivity, which helps maintain heat in the room. The environmentally friendly frame “breathes” and absorbs decomposition products of oxygen and other chemical compounds.
With clear correspondence step by step guide for construction wooden loft with his own hands he can be quite fast. The main thing is to determine the consumption of building materials and clearly plan the desired design.
Attic renovation
After removing the walls to the desired height and creating the floor, you can proceed with upgrading the additional floor.
First, the attic wall is built, if it was included in the layout. In this case, the material used is similar to that from which they are made wall walls. The wooden wall is covered with a bond, according to which, to protect against negative influences external environment another layer of liner is used.
Half-walls allow you to install a table whose height is higher than human height, ensuring free movement throughout the room. The choice depends on the purpose of the attic, the construction of the building itself and other details of the layout.
Fixing walls and installing Mauerlat
If the height of the attic wall is more than 0.7 m, in order to avoid cracks, it is necessary to increase the strength of the structure.
For this purpose, reinforcement or gluing of the walls to which the Mauerlat is attached is performed. The binders are reinforcing bars intercepted with special clips. It strengthens the entire volume of walls, the thickness of which determines the distance between the reinforcement.
Attention: no welding - connection is made only with clamps!
To make the blank under the bundle, we use U-shaped blocks in which the skeleton will be laid.
In addition, hairs at a distance of 1.2 cm are installed at a distance of 1 m for subsequent installation of Mauerlate. The frame is then sprayed with concrete after it is fully hardened, which can be continued during the construction of window gutters.
Mauerlat falls onto the armada and is tightly tied to the wall.
If you want to do this, you will need 1.5cm bars. If you don't have the length you need, you can connect multiple short links using an anchor.
Before installing Mauerlets, the humidity of the armadies was ensured in advance roofing felt. The rods represent drilled holes, which are positioned so that the anchors can easily penetrate the grooves.
Do-it-yourself attic - additional space for your home
The screws must then be firmly screwed in and the formed structure must be left for a few days before being screwed down.
ATTIC INSULATION
Regardless of the purpose of the lower attic, the space must be insulated due to significant heat loss through the roof. In addition, due to thermal insulation, the risk of rotting of wooden upgrades and molds is reduced.
Mineral wool or polystyrene is used as a heater.
The use of any material has its advantages and disadvantages.
As practice shows, optimal design material for internal thermal insulation of basalt wool.
Ceiling insulation from the inside
Before installing thermal insulation on the ceiling, all small cracks must be removed, after which you can continue with waterproofing.
For this purpose, it is attached to the rails waterproofing film to protect the surface from moisture penetration.
If you want, you can place the box as close as possible between it and the rafters basalt slabs. Depending on thickness thermal insulation material they are laid in one or more layers.
To prevent moisture penetration, it is recommended to install a vapor barrier suitable for parchment or polyethylene foil. Attach the vapor barrier to the rafters with studs or polymer adhesives.
It insulates plasterboard, beam or plywood ceilings.
Heating of floors and floors
To insulate the floor in an attic, you must first apply a layer of vapor barrier, then heat the space between the joists and trim with wood planks.
The walls of an attic room should only be insulated if they are not formed on the slopes of the roof. Before insulating the wall, it is necessary to level the surface and remove all laces.
The procedure for laying thermal insulation material is the same as on the ceiling, the obligation is the presence of only a container.
MANSARD VENTILATION
Appropriate ventilation device — prerequisite for reliable attic heating.
Air circulation is necessary to prevent burning of wooden shears and corrosion of reinforced elements.
Poor ventilation also leads to wetting of the insulation and deterioration of heat transfer. To avoid adverse effects on roofs, it is necessary to install a ventilation gap.
And from the inside of the roof pie, you must allow free air movement.
The holes for its exit are made in the area of the roof ridge, and in case of absence, it is advisable to install a special special element ventilation on ramps.
INTERIOR STRUCTURES ATTIC
The completion of the attic depends on the personal wishes of the owner and the purpose of its location.
Elements of attic decor are no different from the design of any other room.
Here are used ceiling ceilings, wall cladding, bamboo fabric or plasterboard. You can create a very comfortable environment by going around or painting the walls in one or more tones. Important factors when choosing a design include the size and configuration of the attic, lighting, location of windows and doors, and availability of materials.
Characteristics of attic construction
Step by step - production stages
How to build an attic with your own hands
The final phase of mansard roof construction
The presence of an auxiliary roof can significantly increase the usable area of privately owned apartments. To save money, many owners are considering building a DIY loft.
According to experts, this is quite possible if you study the relevant information.
Characteristics of attic construction
One of best options- break down the attic.
It is spacious and, after proper refinement, will become a complete living space. When such a roof is installed without an accurate calculation, it cannot do this.
It should be noted that when designing an attic with roofing, the recommendations of SNiP should be taken into account.
It is necessary to take into account several shades of this part:
- If the building is built on a field where a mild climate prevails with frequent windy weather and very little snow, the roof may be sloped at a slight angle.
- If the area where you live experiences snowfall and heavy downpours, the flat roof should be relaxed.
- It is absolutely necessary to equip with high-quality acoustic, hydro- and thermal insulation, since the attic should be the same living room as the other rooms in the house.
- The best roofing material for the construction of a mansard-type roof is considered to be slate or tiles.
Some owners install incorrectly metal lids, but with the onset of cold weather they have problems with the heat-saving attic room. Building materials should be selected with fire-resistant and moisture-resistant properties, since the roof always consists of wooden elements. To better preserve them, such surfaces are treated with antifungal agents.
- If you build an external staircase with your own hands while building a roof, you can save usable space in your home.
An internal staircase would be more comfortable for residents, but it will take a lot square meters. There is another option - the placement of a ceiling ladder, which practically does not cover the space. As for the propeller design, its comfort is questionable.
Step by step - production stages
When the attic is raised with your own hands, the production stages will be:
- Wooden beams with a size of 10x10 cm are installed in the waterproofing.
How to make an attic
In this case the best waterproofing material is roofing material or only in rolls, which makes it convenient even in the absence of appropriate skills. If the ceiling in the house is wooden, then there is no need to place additional beams under the main beams.
- Below is the installation of racks on bearings with the same cross-sectional size.
These shelves serve as a kind of fence for attic walls. They should be installed at a distance of no more than two meters. To provide quality work At this stage, hand drawings of the attic roof will be made.
If you do not have the necessary knowledge, you can contact the experts.
- Each stand must be completely accurate and use lugs and clamps to secure them. The installation accuracy must be checked according to the level and, if necessary, place these elements in a specific location. Once the rack is installed, they are aligned on both sides. Sheets of simple plywood or dry walls are used on the inside, and panels are made on the outside.
It is important to install the heater between the posts.
- In addition, an upper beam with the same cross-section is installed. He can somehow strengthen it. When building a mansard roof, the main thing is that the beams are firmly and firmly installed.
- At this stage, the Mauerlat installation, which is the support for the rear leg, is located at the bottom of the structure.
Thanks to this element, the roof ramp is fixed to the walls. For Mauerlat you need a stick or plate that has a part of 40x40 centimeters. Place waterproofing underneath to prevent rotting.
- If the Mauerlatt is well located, it will protect the roof of the house from the effects of wind, in winter from snow and other loads.
For thorough fixation, use wire with a cross-section of 5 millimeters, preferably annealed, which is designed for gluing. If you want power to stand, the wire is built directly into them.
- At the next stage, in accordance with the technology for installing attic roofs of private houses, it is necessary to install rafting feet. Firstly, the mark on the Mauerlat frame and the raft are marked in the rafting areas. Typically the installation step is 100-120 centimeters.
The scissors are made of completely flat plates with a cross section of 4-5 inches and a width of 15 centimeters.
- Rafting legs must rest on an essential element of the building - the crest of the shaft. This is not necessary if the rafter length does not exceed 8 meters.
They are then treated with normal stretching.
- Installation of fillets is carried out in the same way as with rafters. To make things easier, it starts with two extreme elements.
Pull the cord between them and point to it when you install the next filler. Once installed, they are attached to the floor slab, which serves as a barrier to wind and precipitation.
- Before creating a mansard roof, you must determine the location of the windows when drawing the drawings.
The window opening must be at least 12-13% of the surface of the side walls. Where you install windows, it is necessary to strengthen the rafts. To do this, place strips that will become the top and bottom of the window in which the frame is mounted and attached.
How to build an attic with your own hands
Then make sure all previous work has been completed correctly.
Using a level, you need to check all the dimensions of the tiles and beams from the cufflinks of the roofs that make up your own hands. It is also necessary to ensure that the structural elements are rigid and securely fastened to ensure that the insulation is everywhere. Minor deficiencies may need to be addressed.
You may want to contact an experienced builder to evaluate the quality of work on your home's attic, as the roof needs to be strong, secure and durable.
If everything is set up well in the attic, and the structure is not in danger, you can proceed to the following stages of construction:
- Once the roof skeleton is complete, the box rails are further attached to the rafters.
The step of their installation depends on the roofing material chosen to cover the roof.
- After installing the rail, a hiberbarrier is applied to it. Most commonly used conventional polyethylene films for this purpose. This is inexpensive and at the same time protects the quality of the attic against moisture penetration. Secure it with construction clamps. The film should cover from bottom to top.
- Thermal insulation material is installed on top of the film layer.
One of best insulation- mineral wool. This material is lightweight, safe for health, and retains heat well. In addition, minvat does not allow the spread of rodents in the house.
- In the place where the roof is located, the installation is carried out in a similar way to the installation of polyethylene foil.
The roof material is laid in the same way that it loads the elements towards each other. It must be ensured that in areas where the roof is damaged, the tops of the roof roofs protrude above the bottom.
This point is very important, because incorrect installation results in the fact that even with a little rain, the attic roof will begin to leak and that the wooden structure will gradually become useless.
- Install the skates so that after construction is completed, precipitation cannot get under the roof.
The final phase of mansard roof construction
Once the main portion of the attic is complete, continue installing the doors and windows that are part of the roof structure.
The roof cake in this case is multi-layered, so noise, heat and waterproofing are guaranteed inside the attic.
If the decision on the stairs has not been made, it is better to choose external option, which will be simpler and cheaper. Over time, you can add a staircase to a room, losing some room in the house.
You should pay attention to reverse work, if there is a living room in the attic.
However, for those who have ever renovated their homes, this type of work will not be difficult.
Even if you decide to invite a team of experienced builders, information on how to build a roof will not be superfluous.
This will allow you to control the work on the construction of the attic on the roof.
