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Joining drywall at an attic angle. Stages of self-cladding an attic with plasterboard. Finishing touches on the attic floor

An attic is a room in a house that can be turned into a cozy and comfortable room. To decorate it, home owners often choose drywall. It is inexpensive, easy to use, lightweight, durable and fire resistant. This material is odorless and has excellent heat and sound insulation characteristics.

Drywall will hide all flaws in the ceiling and walls, it is environmentally friendly - it will create a healthy microclimate in the room.

Choosing drywall for finishing the attic

This is a room with high humidity, which means you suitable material two types - for walls and for ceilings.

Advice. Give preference to wall sheets with medium and small size, minimum thickness 12.5 mm. Ceiling material with a thickness of 8 or 9.5 mm is used for cladding the ceiling.

Before purchasing, decide how many sheets you will need to cover the room. To do this, first calculate the surface area, and then divide the resulting amount by the area of ​​one sheet of drywall. In order not to miscalculate, we advise you to purchase material with a reserve.

The chosen type of finish determines what other materials will be needed and what list of tools should be on hand to complete the job. You will definitely need a connecting tape - 120 m per 45 sq. m of finishing material. Also buy paste for caulking joints (according to approximate calculations, 4 liters of paste are needed for 9 sq. m of material).

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, make sure that the room is ready for improvement. You should not start renovations if the house was recently built. Wait until the structures are completely dry.

Do not forget that there is a roof above the room, so its condition is very important point. It must be repaired and not leak. Check it during the rainy season - its weak points will make themselves felt.

If there is a need, have the roof properly repaired, this will protect you from unpleasant leaks after the repairs have been carried out. Examine the rafters and beams, they should be dry, strong, free of mold and rot.

You definitely need to remove the old coating from the surfaces - if any. Clean the walls and ceiling from dirt and dust. Remove all unnecessary items from the premises.

If you will only use the room in the summer, you can finish it with plasterboard without using insulation. But if you plan to make a full-fledged living space where you will feel comfortable at any time of the year, immediately worry about insulating it.

Among the most popular insulation materials:

• Styrofoam– the owner chooses the thickness of the coating himself. It ranges from 20-100 mm. It retains heat well, has a high sound insulation rate, and is light weight. Polystyrene foam is practical to use and does not require much effort. Please note that this material may harbor rodents;



• mineral wool– has irreplaceable thermal insulation features, affordable. It is resistant to chemical compositions, is not afraid of moisture, is fireproof, and is not afraid of rodents. But be careful when laying it - while working with it, dust harmful to health appears. The thickness of the insulation layer can be different - from 20 to 200 mm.



Remember that surface insulation should begin from the ceiling if it has not been waterproofed.

Installation methods

When the room is prepared, finishing needs to begin. The basis for plasterboard slabs can be rafters. But still, a frame is often installed under the finishing material. Single-layer or two-layer sheathing is produced (for greater strength). The side planes are sheathed first, and the ceiling last.



Let's look at different mounting methods:

1. Fastening sheet material to the rafters. Its thickness should be at least 25 mm; thinner sheets will be subject to damage and bending during natural vibrations of the roof. This method is suitable if you have a small attic. The distance between the rafters should be no more than 75 cm. Thus, you will be able to save on materials and labor costs - you will not have to erect a sheathing. The disadvantage of this method is that difficulties may arise when leveling the finishing layer, because the rafters are not always perfectly level.



2. - this frame consists of wooden slats secured with screws across the rafters. They must be located in the same plane. If necessary, leveling wooden pads can be used. The finishing material is mounted vertically on horizontal frame bars. Insulation is placed under it.



3. – This is the method most often chosen. It is especially recommended if the room is large. This frame is reliable and durable.



The work is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Markings are made for the frame using a paint cord - its border is marked on the floor. Using a plumb line, the same contour is transferred to the ceiling. The lines where the frame elements will be located are marked on all surfaces;
2. installation of guides - self-tapping screws and dowels are used for this purpose. Each section of the profile is fixed to the base in approximately three places. The step between them is no more than 1 m;
3. hangers are fixed - elements are mounted along vertical lines. Thus, the frame will be reliable and stable;
4. The racks are mounted - they are installed according to the clearly previously made vertical markings. To perform work on attaching racks to hangers and guides, self-tapping screws are used.



Fastening drywall

We already have a base for installing finishing materials and installed insulation. Now you can start lining. For good results, follow certain rules and recommendations.:

• the sheets, both from each other and from the walls, should be at a distance of approximately 5 mm. These gaps are necessary to protect the structure from flaws during the expansion of the material;
• we connect the plasterboard sheets with a distance of 15 - 25 cm. Make sure that the self-tapping screw enters the surface strictly perpendicularly. Its cap should be immersed several millimeters into the surface of the sheet;
• Have a sharp knife handy as you will have to cut some sheets of drywall.

Processing of joints

At the final stage of finishing it is very important to perfect alignment surfaces. Please approach this process responsibly. After all, if it is done poorly, then over time cracks may appear at the joints of the sheets.

Putty the joints - place a connecting reinforcing tape on top, try to ensure that the joint runs right along the middle of it. Once the base layer has hardened, re-apply a thin layer of putty to the seam with tape.

A modern attic is not a banal box covered with yellowish clapboard, but a stylish and cozy space for living. Owners of private houses no longer try to make the attic look like an ordinary room, but boldly open the slopes and highlight the floor beams. But how can you decorate the slopes so that they turn from the main drawback of the room into a highlight?

Exterior decoration of the attic

From the outside, the attic most often looks like an integral part of the house, so the appearance of the pediment matches the design of the facade walls. Finish the attic gable:

• facade decorative plaster;
• siding;
• decorative bricks;
• clinker tiles.

These options are suitable for cases where the pediment is built from the same material as the walls of the house.

Photo gallery: houses with attics in the color of the facade

False beams made of wood have such qualities as environmental friendliness, durability, low cost and ease of installation. The high frost resistance of clinker tiles makes this building material indispensable in harsh conditions. climatic conditions Russia Walls finished with decorative plaster have increased sound insulation and resistance to dust and dirt Before applying decorative plaster to the walls, they must be additionally cleaned and processed, and it is also worth high quality plaster quite expensive Brick attic, like the house itself, requires major insulation According to experts, siding is considered one of the most durable finishing methods in the budget price segment.

Video: finishing the facade and pediment with “grated fur coat”

How to cover the outside of an attic

Sometimes the pediment is finished with a contrasting material to visually break up the house horizontally and emphasize the height of the lower floors. Among the materials used:

• corrugated sheeting of a contrasting or harmonious color (a popular option among those who initially did not plan to insulate the attic);
• false timber or other wood (looks best on wooden houses and when simulating an alpine house).

Contrasting finishing involves the use of different materials for the floors of the house, for example, stone on the bottom, wood on top

Such solutions are used when renovating a house, when the gable is built simultaneously with the roof.

Video: covering the pediment with clapboard

Attic interior decoration

Since the truss system of houses is made of wood, Decoration Materials attics have to be attached to this unreliable foundation. Even well-dried wood absorbs moisture from the air and tends to slightly change its geometry. Therefore, if such walls are simply covered with plasterboard and putty, the putty will inevitably crack over time. When decorating the attic interior, it is necessary to mitigate this design flaw. This is done in two ways: using wood or fabric in the design, or creating an internal “box” of durable materials connected to the rafters with movable clamps.

Large windows and bright lamps give total wooden attic modern features

Before you begin the interior decoration of the attic, it must be thoroughly insulated. Otherwise, all your efforts will go to waste - the finishing materials will deteriorate due to seasonal temperature fluctuations.

The decoration of the attic walls can imitate natural stone, this solution will look quite stylish

Today, the walls of the attic can be finished with any materials, but some of them will require a larger investment of money and sophisticated technology.

For the floor in the attic, wood (from cheap boards to type-setting parquet) or laminate is most often used. The ceiling usually visually merges with the wall, so materials of similar texture and color are selected for their design. Stretch ceilings should not be used in the attic. Although they will give the room visual height, in the specific climate of the attic floor they tend to highlight more harmful substances

and can cause damage to rafters due to disruption of the microclimate above the film.

Using lining for interior decoration Wooden lining is exactly the material whose characteristics perfectly match the properties of the rafter system, so it does not crack or weaken the fastenings due to seasonal changes in temperature or humidity. In addition, no one doubts the safety and environmental friendliness of this traditional solution. Many even believe that it is the lining that gives country house

comfort and rustic charm. If you also do not intend to deviate from proven solutions, then you can install the lining in the attic yourself.

The grade of lining depends on the presence of knots, cracks, rot, etc. on the surface of the wood; the more defects, the lower the grade

Save the hint picture to your phone so that you don’t overpay for lower-grade material when purchasing.

• In addition to the type of lining, it is important not to make a mistake with the material. Panels from the following species are available on the market: larch is an elite material with a high price and large decorative properties
• , she is not afraid of pests, rot, fungi, moisture;
• Scandinavian pine is a beautiful wood of a pinkish hue and practically without knots, it is softer than larch and cheaper;
• Siberian cedar - a material with an unusual texture and a healing effect (releases healing substances);
• oak is a durable, dense and heavy wood of a peculiar dark shade, it costs a lot, but also lasts more than 50 years; linden - soft, light and very light, well suited for lightweight structures,, decorate panels with carvings yourself;
• domestic pine - a budget option, but high grades of this wood are quite durable and beautiful.

Wooden lining is universal material, which is suitable for both internal and external finishing work

The better the room is thermally and waterproofed, the less resistant wood you can use.

Video: how to choose the right lining

Installation of lining on attic walls

Please note: before starting work, the lining must lie in the attic for 4–7 days so that its humidity and temperature are balanced with the characteristics of the room. If you do not allow the material to “get used” to the room, it will quickly deform.

If you plan to impregnate the wood with fire and antifungal additives, this should be done before installation in order to be able to thoroughly treat the panels on all sides. Try to use compounds that are as safe as possible for humans. There is no need to save money on this point; it is better to take cheaper wood and cheap varnish than to risk the health of future attic residents.

After preparing the material, choose the best mounting method for you. You can fix the lining:

• using wood screws into the groove of the lining (the wood from below is deformed, but the fastening is simple, inexpensive and reliable);

  Please note: the screw must go deep at an angle

• clamps and self-tapping screws - special metal adapter brackets (the bar does not suffer, it can be reused, but additional costs for clamps are required);

  The clamps provide the wood with a little freedom, which prevents cracking of the dies.

• with staples from a construction gun into the groove (suitable only for soft, light wood, you will need to stuff a lot of staples);

  The main advantage of using a pistol is that there is no need to use large physical strength, fastening with staples is always very strong, reliable, durable, but at the same time the staples can always be removed, and the material will not be irreversibly damaged

• nails with decorative heads (used in masculine stylized interiors when it is necessary to emphasize the brutality of the finish).

  It’s easy to hide the head of a regular self-tapping screw behind the large heads of decorative nails

The first three methods allow you to create a completely invisible mount.

The instructions for finishing the attic with clapboard are simple: you need to fix the planks to wooden sheathing on walls and slopes. If you want to install the lining in a different direction, the sheathing is first attached to them (perpendicular to the lining), and then the planks themselves. The work of covering the walls with a block house (imitation timber) is completely similar, except that they are more difficult to attach alone due to the large thickness and weight of each panel.

Please note: you cannot do without self-tapping screws when installing lining

If you do not want to hide the texture of the wood, you can add variety to the lining wall due to the width and type of planks. Buy panels of 2-3 options, with decorative milling, embossing and combine them with each other. When purchasing, be sure to make sure that their tongue-and-groove fastenings fit together.

Lining with decorative embossing, diluted with ordinary smooth, looks very harmonious and unusual

In order for the clapboard walls to look harmonious, the floor will need to be finished with either a tongue-and-groove board or a laminate similar to the clapboard in color or pattern (an exact match is not necessary, but something should unite them). The choice depends on financial capabilities and the condition of the ceiling. If it is finished with chipboard, gypsum fiber board or other board material, you can safely glue laminate or even vinyl tiles. If the ceiling was decorated with a rough board, it is better to finish it with boards as well. But if you wish, you can lay slab material over the subfloor and attach laminate, carpet, tiles (vinyl or ceramic in wet and hot areas) to it.

Painted floorboards look very appropriate in the attic

Video: errors when installing lining

Decorating the attic floor with plasterboard

Drywall is most often used when owners want to move away from traditional lining and timber towards a more urban interior with smooth walls. The environmental friendliness of drywall also plays an important role. Since it is pressed from gypsum without glue and finished with paper, the material is not capable of causing harm to human health or releasing any hazardous substances. In addition, the technology for installing drywall is familiar to most people who have done repairs themselves, which makes it possible to save on the work of craftsmen.

Drywall will create an excellent base for smooth background walls and help visually raise the slope

The disadvantage of drywall in the attic is its low elasticity - when the wood “plays”, the gypsum board is not able to follow it. Therefore, methods such as gluing the sheet to the base or fastening it with self-tapping screws to the wall while simultaneously adjusting the position under the roof are not applicable. You need a strong steel sheathing that will be attached to the tree with metal hangers that can compensate for the movement of the rafters.

If you pick up right size corrugations failed, you can take a cable channel with a rectangular cross-section

If mice often appear in the house, use it for insulation. stone wool, and place the wiring in a strong corrugation. This will help avoid rework and eliminate unattractive external wiring.

Instructions for finishing an attic with plasterboard

Finish the attic with plasterboard as follows:

1. Assemble the frame for plasterboard using guides (PN) and rack (PS) profiles with a wall thickness of 0.7 mm (it is better not to use thinner galvanized steel, it may not withstand the load). In this case, you can attach the profiles directly to wooden elements lathing, which was made when insulating the attic. If the weight of the sheathing is too large, you will need to install additional racks, fastening them not only to the wooden frame, but also to metal guides through hangers.

   If you want to cut off the space under the ridge, you should provide access to it from another room

2. Lay the wiring in corrugated sleeves and take a few photos so that after covering it will be easier to find the cable exit points. Fix the mortgages in the places where the chandeliers are attached.

   The mounting for the chandelier is attached to metal racks using self-tapping screws

3. Start the sheathing from the top of the slopes, if possible, trying to position the sheets so that the seams run parallel to the flow of light from the window. Then minor flaws when filling joints will not be visible. The fastening step is 25 cm. Be sure to widen the seams and maintain an expansion gap of 3–5 mm.

   Please note: moisture-resistant plasterboard is used in the attic

4. Make holes for the wires in the places where the lamps are attached and make sure that none of them are damaged during the work. While the walls are not covered with plasterboard, it is possible to extend a corrugated cable with an additional or spare wire.

   To avoid incidents with holes for wires, try to coordinate the pitch of the sheathing with the location of the lamps in advance

5. Cover the attic walls with plasterboard and make holes for sockets and switches.

   The socket boxes should be installed in the drywall before the putty begins.

6. Prime the seams, fill them with elastic putty and seal them with special tape. After the putty has completely set, smooth the seams with emery cloth so that they do not protrude above the main surface. Treat the attachment points in the same way.

   The seams between the plasterboard slabs must be completely aligned.

Further work depends on the effect you want. If you plan to cover part of the walls with decorative panels, no further preparation is required. Under the wallpaper you will need a layer of rough plaster and its leveling. Preparation for painting is the most difficult: a layer of rough putty, a layer of fiberglass (can be glued directly to the putty, it will help avoid cracks), a layer of finishing putty, sanding the walls. If you want to apply a thin layer decorative plaster, you should also play it safe with fiberglass, but you no longer need to putty completely.

In a low, small attic, smooth plasterboard walls look most harmonious

Drywall is only suitable for walls and slopes; when using it, the attic floor will have to be finished with a different material. The same methods apply as in the case of lining. But if you chose plasterboard because of its environmental friendliness, the most logical solution would be to use gypsum fiber sheets.

Video: installing drywall on the attic ceiling

Chipboard in the attic design

Chipboards are now used not only for the manufacture of furniture, but also for dry leveling of walls/floors/ceilings in wooden houses and attics. Most often, non-laminated panels with moisture-resistant impregnation are used. This allows you to subsequently prime and putty the surface for painting or wallpaper. In the final version, the wall looks the same as plasterboard or plastered. But, thanks to the many times greater thickness of the chipboard, you can safely mount hanging shelves on it, modular system storage, TV bracket and other weighty items (subject to the use of special fastening).

Chipboard has a number of advantages: strength, durability, resistance to high temperatures and direct influences. sun rays, as well as relatively low cost

The technology for installing chipboard sheets is simpler than plasterboard, since they can be attached directly to rafters and wooden sheathing. Solid wood and particle boards interact well with each other, therefore metal fastenings Not needed. But a compensation gap of 1–2 mm between the sheets is required if you do not want cracks to appear later. The seams are puttied with an elastic compound and taped with a special tape, so they will be invisible in the future. After this, the surface becomes flat, smooth and suitable for finishing. As a decorative layer, you can use thin laminated chipboard or MDF panels with a machined end.

A combination of mirror and laminated strips can be easily mounted on a chipboard base

Similarly used for finishing gypsum fiber boards ( gypsum fiber sheets, aquapanels) or glass-magnesite sheets. Installation technology, weight, durability and possible decorative effect practically indistinguishable from chipboard. Final choice It depends only on which material is suitable for the price and which one is more convenient for you to work with.

Moisture-resistant chipboard for flooring with one-sided laminate - reliable flooring in minimal time without loss of height

It's convenient that slab materials you can finish all surfaces at once - from the slope to the floor.

Finishing the attic with HPL panels

HPL panels appeared on our construction market back in the mid-90s, but so far they are widespread only in administrative institutions. Essentially, this is an improved analogue of laminate, only HPL is pressed under more severe conditions, therefore it is not afraid of water and is most resistant to mechanical stress.

HPL panels allow you to easily create rounded corners

Manufacturers offer a palette of more than a hundred colors, as well as panels with imitation different types wood, stones, metals, leather and skins of rare animals, many options with photorealistic printing. This finish looks very impressive and rich, and, in addition, is suitable for making shower stalls (neither chipboard nor laminate could withstand such humidity) and can be used in children's rooms and institutions. Manufacturers claim that the material is completely environmentally friendly. HPL panels are used to decorate ceilings, walls, floors, and are used to make furniture, so any scraps can be put to use.

Today there is only one disadvantage of HPL panels - high cost

Manufacturers additionally decorate HPL sheets with decorative embossing, milling, and perforation. You can use it to make openwork shutters or partitions in the attic.

Several fastening systems have also been thought out, from the simplest to self-tapping screws (even the least experienced can handle it) House master) to completely hidden. Panels with a thickness of 1 cm (maximum - 20 cm) can be mounted in the attic immediately on top of the vapor barrier and on finished walls calmly hang pictures and shelves. Thanks to this material, you can finish the attic from the ridge to the floor within one working day (if you work together in a room of up to 100 m2).

If you want to install an additional bathroom in the attic, HPL panels will help you decorate it effectively.

There is only one drawback to HPL panels - the price starts from 7 USD. e. per m 2. Considering that the thickness of the material is from 2 mm, you will have to pay a tidy sum to cover even one wall with panels 1–2 cm thick. But if you are not short on money, this material will help save a lot of time and provide an incredible decorative effect. You can safely combine “rosewood”, “white marble”, “python skin” and bright colors, without worrying about compatibility and differences in thickness of materials (and this could not be avoided when using real stone, wood and leather).

By the way, HPL panels can also be purchased as flooring. It looks like laminate, but is not at all afraid of water, which makes it more durable and safe.

Use of combined materials

If you don't want to make all the walls the same, you can use the principles combined finishing. Paying tribute to the fashion for environmental friendliness, most designers try to use wood. But it can look different:

• lining (ultra-wide or very narrow, laid in different directions or in the form of a pattern);

  A combination of wide and narrow tiles of different tones will add dynamics to the attic interior

• boards with a live edge (using a contrasting backing or two layers);

  If you don't want to give the attic the look hunting lodge, use unedged board only on one of the walls or in fragments behind the sofa and TV

• panels made of laminated wood or plywood (smooth large-format slabs look best in minimalism and loft);

  The plywood does not have to be left in its natural form; you can paint or paint it

• vertical slats made of solid wood or glued together from layers of veneer, which are attached at a distance from each other and create a dynamic pattern (they work to raise the ceiling);

  Slats mounted on the wall will create a subconscious impression that there is additional space behind them

• classic panel panels (in modern interior, eclecticism and fusion style, multi-format panels can occupy the entire wall and even extend to the ceiling);

  In order not to overload the interior, panels of dark and amber colors are best mounted only from below

• wooden wallpaper - thin wooden dies assembled on a woven base (in fact, they differ little from bamboo wallpaper, but are made from types of wood more familiar to us);

  Thin dies wooden wallpaper will add variety to the interior with a completely wood finish

• ceiling beams or false beams (placed under the ridge).

  How sharper angle slopes, the more complex beam structures you can use

At the same time, it is not at all necessary to preserve the unique pattern and color of the wood. Wooden surfaces often impregnated with tinting glazes bright colors(light green, turquoise, red) or apply thick opaque paint.

Colored varnish helps give wood particularly interesting and unusual shades

It is also believed that a combined interior should have glossy materials. Since it is very important for the attic to expand the space upward, gloss can only be placed on the slopes.

Thanks to the glossy paint on the slopes, light will fill the attic even through a small window

The idea is realized using different materials:

• glass with photo printing, completely transparent, colored or tinted to a translucent effect, decorated with a matte pattern;
• mirrors made of clear (without greenery), ordinary, bronze or graphite glass (near such walls you can safely install furniture and hang pictures on them, this will help avoid an “overdose” of reflections);
• acrylic sheets, most often in rich colors ( plastic panels very light and thin, mounted on ordinary liquid nails);
• painting with glossy paints of any tones (the method is only suitable for perfectly aligned walls);
• wallpaper with a metal or satin effect (if the wall is made of plasterboard, gypsum board or chipboard);
• glossy self-adhesive films(also require an even, stable base, but more reliable than wallpaper and cheaper than acrylic).

The wall for chalk drawing can be combined with the facades of the built-in wardrobe

Another important trend in the attic interior is a wall for drawing and magnets. It is interesting that designers offer this solution not only to families with children, but also to young couples, those who like to decorate the interior with their own hands, as well as people who use drawing boards as part of their profession. You can create such a highlight of the interior using:

• applying magnetic composition and chalk paint (the wall will turn out black or dark);
• alternately applying magnetic and marker paint (this way you can make a wall of any tone, but so that the markers are clearly visible, a light shade is applied on top);
• pasting the wall with self-adhesive chalk (manufacturers offer only black ones).

In the attic you just want to lie down and relax, and this should be facilitated soft walls. When is it planned? sleeping area or a sitting area with a sofa, it’s rare that a designer doesn’t use this technique. You can achieve softness:

• by upholstering the wall with foam rubber and draping it with fabric that matches or contrasts with the upholstered furniture/bedspread (this is cheaper and you can do it yourself);

  Velvet finishing will turn the protruding roof element into a stylish art object

• fixing soft panels on the wall (panels of the required shape and size are made to order from any fabric, customers are offered a huge variety of ties - from the usual carriage ties to fancy ones);

  Soft Wall panels are fixed so securely that they can be safely mounted on slopes and even on the ceiling

• using soft stickers made of polyurethane foam (they can imitate not only fabric, but also stone and brick).

  Soft "stone" or "brick" - unexpected decision for attic interior

You can not make the entire wall soft, but only part of it in the recreation area or in traumatic places.

To add some flair to the attic interior, you can also use panels with a three-dimensional pattern. The most common are plaster, but they are heavy and require a stable base. Therefore, it is better to buy panels made of thin plastic or light acoustic “tiles”. Both options look very attractive and modern.

Acoustic panels are an excellent decor for a youth interior

The main thing is to remember that there should not be too many raisins in the interior. If the room is done in soothing tones or shades of the same color, you can easily use wooden boards, mirrors and 3D panels. But if you plan to have a lot of rich tones, you shouldn’t go overboard with textures. Make a neutral base with a practical, unobtrusive texture and choose 1-2 non-standard highlights for it.

In the light calm interior nothing will irritate you for sure

Attic in the style of “cheap and cheerful”

Beauty and environmental friendliness - important factors, but many simply do not have enough money for them. Therefore, it is worth mentioning cases when, after insulating the attic, you have to save on every screw. Let's look at how you can make the interior cheap and not boring.

Trimmings - not in the firebox

The first way is to use wood scraps that were left over after building the roof. From the bars and dies lying around in the corners you can make spectacular mosaics wooden panels. They may look like:

• “city of skyscrapers” - dies are cut from bars of the same or different thicknesses and laid tightly next to each other (the result looks like a city from a great height);

  If desired, you can use bars different sections, but identical squares look stylish

• “complete chaos” - wooden scraps are aligned in thickness, width or length and assembled into an arbitrary pattern;

  Assorted dies with different textures can also look attractive

• “anti-parquet” - cuttings of bars are split along the length with a hatchet and fastened smooth side to the wall, with the texture facing outwards (you will need to remove the sharpest dangerous protrusions, but the result is worth it);
  

  The fireplace near the wood can be electric or even painted

  Another budget option is to make shallow shelves from scraps and place them in them. chopped firewood. If the wall is covered only with a membrane, it is advisable to cover it with cheap fabric or agrofibre beforehand to create a beautiful background for the logs.

  Plywood

  As a rule, for decorative finishing They use expensive plywood. But experienced designers They claim that even cheap plywood can serve well and look presentable. Just don’t be shy to rummage through the stack, and you’ll definitely be able to find 2-3 sheets that don’t have any knots or dark spots on one side. Among the low-grade panels there are amazingly beautiful wood patterns that you can use to decorate an accent wall in the attic. For better preservation, the plywood will need to be protected, but this can be done with an inexpensive water-based varnish. With such a coating it will seem even more impressive and more expensive.

  It is not at all necessary to use plywood in large quantities; it is better to combine it with other materials

  OSB boards

  Oriented strand sheets are so popular and affordable in construction that you may have an entire attic sheathed in them. If this is the case, if you wish, you can simply paint the walls in suitable colors and begin moving in. But when you want to do stylish interior, it is better to combine OSB with other materials. In particular, the seams of the slabs can be decorated with rope or wooden strips in contrasting tones.

  An OSB wall decorated with inscriptions looks very modern

  OSB is also a good basis for thick non-woven wallpaper, but if you don’t mind the visible texture, you can create an interesting visual effect and with regular paper ones.

  If your attic does not have OSB, you should cover one of the walls with it. The unusual texture of the material will complement the interior well, even if you cover it with thick paint.

  Plastic lining

  High-quality plastic lining with wide dies and decorative patterns often costs more than wood. But to save money, there is no shame in using the simplest, white and narrow one. It will look good under the ridge, at the highest point of the attic ceiling. If you also left some of the beams open, from a distance no one will guess that your lining is inexpensive.

  Choice plastic lining- this is a good reason to play with color

  Chintz according to grandma's recipe

  IN Soviet times decorating walls and ceilings with fabric was very popular. The rich used brocade, and those who liked to save money did their best with chintz. This simple fabric with naive patterns is perfect for a nursery, as well as a Provence-style interior. Maybe it's time to take apart grandma's chest and look for pieces of fabric there? A single piece can be secured with a construction stapler directly on top of the wind- and moisture-proof membrane, and the seams can then be decorated with twine, a wooden plank or cord.

  Patchwork can be made not only from fabric, but also from pieces of old unnecessary wallpaper or decorative paper

  If there is no chintz among the inheritance and store prices are not pleasing, you can profitably dispose of old, but not worn, clothes. With minimal machine sewing skills, it’s easy to create a patchwork-style fabric. Undoubtedly, a wall made of denim scraps will look very picturesque and extraordinary in the attic.

  It doesn’t matter what budget you have allocated for finishing your attic. The main thing is to use the suggested tips wisely and create own interior which will be convenient for you. Then your attic will undoubtedly please every guest.

Widely used for lining various broken surfaces. One such surface is the ceiling and slopes of the attic room. The attic is the upper room in the house, the ceiling and walls of which are the truss system of the roof of the house. The triangle of rafters forms the broken surface of the attic ceiling, dividing it into the ceiling itself and the slopes of the ceiling, surfaces located at an angle to the ceiling and walls.

An attic is usually equipped on a gable roof, with a broken or straight profile. Since the slope angle mansard roof are made within 30-60˚, then any type of roof can be used to cover roofs. For example, you can use . The roof inclination angle for tiles is from 20-60˚.

Finishing a plasterboard attic - general information and material

The finishing of plasterboard attics, namely the ceiling and slopes of the attic, is done on a wooden frame or a frame made of a metal profile.

• For wooden frame dry wooden beams with sections 48×24 are used; 50×30; 60×40 cm. The standardization of the bars is conditional and is related only to the width of the straight hangers that are used in the metal frame of the attic ceiling.
• For metal frame Direct hangers and ceiling profile PP 60 by 27 and guide profile PN 28 by 27 are used.

The following fastening screws are used for fastening into the structure of frames and cladding of attic frames:

• Screw TN 5x70. It is used to attach beams (bearing) to the structure of rafters and posts in a wooden ceiling structure;
• Screw FN 5x35 or two screws TN 3.5-4x25. They are used for attaching direct hangers to ceiling and rafter beams.
• LN 3.5x10 (metal-to-metal). It is held together by direct hangers and metal profiles of the supporting and ceiling guides.

Description of the design of the attic frame for plasterboard

So we have attic space with visible rafter system roofs. Closer to the ridge of the roof, the rafters are connected girder beam, and at the base of the attic, a frame for the attic walls is made from support bars. All elements attic structure wooden.

The design of the frame for covering the attic with plasterboard, regardless of the material used (bar or profile), is done in the same way.

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• The wooden block is attached directly to the roof rafters (1).
• The metal profile is attached to the rafters on direct hangers (3).
• If necessary, lower the ceiling and slopes of the attic, wooden block can be lowered using direct hangers (2).

In principle, this is the entire frame structure for cladding the attic. Only the distances between the profiles or bars change. The distances depend on the planned load on the frame, and it depends on the planned thickness of the skin. In the table you see the dimensions of the bars and the distances between the rafter bars (a). Table 1.

Note: As in other ceiling structures, gypsum plasterboard sheets can be attached along the guide bars (profiles) or across them. The interaxal distance between the bars (b) depends on the planned fastening of the HA sheets. Table 2.

Corner joints of plasterboard sheets when cladding the attic

The plasterboard sheets of the ceiling and attic slopes will be joined at obtuse angles. Docking is done by placing one sheet under the other. With two sheet coverings, the overlapping of sheets changes: slope, ceiling, slope, ceiling.

After the walls under the slopes are covered with plasterboard, the guide profile is laser screwed on:

This must be done on both sides at once, so that both sides are at the same level if you want to get an even slope

Attach the guide profile only in those places where there is a profile under the drywall. Just screwing it to the drywall is no use.

In some places I helped with my knee

In the end it turned out like this:

Next, at the ridge, two hangers are attached to each pediment. They must be on the same line (strictly parallel to the central axis of the attic). For this I also used a laser plane builder. I pulled a thread between them and screwed on the intermediate hangers along the thread:

After all the upper hangers are screwed on, unscrew them, not completely, but only the upper screw and bend it like this:

to screw the top screw into the ceiling profile. You can't get to it from above with a screwdriver, this is the easiest way I've come up with.

The ceiling profile is screwed onto all the suspensions from above and the suspension fasteners are returned to place.

I aligned the lower edge of this profile along a thread stretched between the upper edge and the guide profile. To cling to the edges at the ends of the thread, I made the following devices:

We pull the thread and orient the profile plane along the thread:

This is very important because... All other intermediate profiles will be oriented along this plane.

On the outer rafters, hangers are attached every 40 centimeters. A thread is stretched between the outermost ones and hangers are attached along the thread to the intermediate rafters.

A level is placed between the top profile and the guide and it is used to mark where the intermediate profiles will go:

The easiest way is to first press the intermediate profile with a level. With a marker in your other hand, mark a) where to cut the suspension and b) where to screw the self-tapping screw into the profile. Set the level aside. Cut the suspension and screw the screws into the places marked with a marker. It turns out very accurate and easy to perform.

Each edge of the drywall should rest on something. For this you will need vertical profiles. Their location should be perpendicular to the central axis of the attic. This is very easy to do with a laser plane builder:

The lower edge of the vertical profile fits into the guide profile like this:

The frame for drywall is ready:

Sewn up with sheets of plasterboard:

For the attic I use regular plasterboard Knauf. 2500 * 1200 * 12.5 mm. These are heavy sheets intended for walls. I deliberately went for it. In the attic it is recommended to use moisture-resistant plasterboard. I believe that if your roof is leaking, then you need to repair the roof, and not protect yourself from leaks with drywall. And damaged drywall is simply thrown away. Moreover, moisture-resistant drywall will not allow you to see exactly where your leak is. In my opinion, moisture-resistant drywall should be used in rooms with naturally high humidity - baths, toilets, kitchens and slopes near windows and doors.

How to press and screw a 30-kilogram sheet onto a roof slope is a separate story, I’ll leave it for you as homework

1) Drainage tray LV-10.14,5.10 - plastic - 2 pieces - 570 rubles.

2) PP profile 60*27 3 meters - 28 pieces - 1,540 rubles.

Total: 2’110 rubles

Finishing the attic with plasterboard helps to increase the usable area and hide defects in wall ceilings, creating a healthy microclimate.

This is a lightweight material that, with a minimum of labor costs, will not create a large load on the attic structure.

But Finishing work plasterboard sheets are made after thermal insulation of the room, since the material itself is not insulating.

Thus, the attic space is an under-roof space with conditions prone to high levels of humidity.

To calculate required quantity finishing sheets of plasterboard, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​​​the sheathed surfaces and divide the result by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe 1st plasterboard board.

The purchase of material for cladding should be carried out with a reserve. The need for other building materials and tools depends on the finishing method.

Preparation

When using an attic space in the summer, preparation consists of removing the existing old coating from its surfaces and cleaning the wall and ceiling floors from dust and debris.

Finishing work does not begin without checking the condition of the roofing.

During the rainy season, weak spots in the roof will appear, and then its timely repair will guarantee the absence of leaks on the installed plasterboard sheets.

Beams and rafters are checked for strength, dryness, and the absence of traces of rot and mold.

For a newly constructed attic, finishing is delayed until its structure is completely dry, as this may affect the displacement and deformation of the drywall.

Fastening is done in 1 or 2 layers. Start with the side planes, leaving the ceiling trim for last.

Insulation process

As an insulating material, you can use polystyrene foam, the thickness of which is in the range of 2-10 cm. When installing slabs from this material, the joints are treated with polyurethane foam for tightness.

Disadvantage: the ability to create favorable conditions for rodents.

When installing mineral wool As an insulating material, it is impossible to avoid the appearance of dust that is unsafe for human health. Layer thickness is within 2-20 cm.

Correct insulation technology requires the creation of a waterproofing layer from the inside of the plane, located with the porous part facing outwards.

Therefore, surface insulation begins with cutting waterproofing material V right size and its fastening between the rafters.

Please watch the video on the topic:

The material is stretched and secured with a stapler. The edges of the waterproofing material are overlapped.

Tools and materials

• Plasterboard sheets;
• Straight metal profiles for 2.5 – 6 m;
• Corner metal profiles;
• Suspensions;
• Crabs;
• Electric drill;
• Metal spatula;
• Long tape measure.

The manufacture of the frame is possible using wooden beams, the humidity of which is from 12%.

In this case, it will require pre-treatment with antiseptics, which will extend its service life and protect it from rotting.

Rafter fastening

Finishing the attic with plasterboard and attaching it to the rafters is recommended for a small room with a pitch between rafters of up to 75 cm.

The advantages of this option are the speed of completion of the work, minimum costs compared to the construction of sheathing, and minimum physical effort during the installation process.

The downside is the possibility of difficulties arising when leveling the finishing layer due to the imperfect alignment of the rafters.

Therefore, to smooth out this defect, a thicker material is selected - 25 mm, since thin plasterboard sheets will be subject to bending and damage when the roof slab vibrates.

On a metal frame

Before fastening, the frame boundaries are marked on the floor using a paint cord. A similar contour is transferred to ceiling plumb.

Lines on surfaces mark the locations of frame elements.

The guides are mounted with dowels and screws. A separate profile section is fixed to the base in at least 3 places in increments of up to 1 m.

The hangers securing the frame are mounted vertically.

Installation of racks in the guides is done relative to the vertical markings. The elements are attached to the guides and hangers with self-tapping screws.

Plasterboard boards are fastened with self-tapping screws at intervals of 25 cm.

With capacity in height more vertically located material, the fastening of its slabs is carried out offset to avoid long horizontal joints.

Installation on wooden sheathing

Sheathing is a frame structure made of wood, constructed from slats running across the rafters. Arrangement of slats in one plane using leveling pads.

Plasterboard slabs are installed vertically on horizontal beams.

The importance of this stage lies in the final leveling of the plane. Incorrect conduct this process will favor the appearance of cracks.

Stitches first. Produced top overlay connecting reinforcing tape with the seam passing relatively exactly to its middle.

After the first layer of putty has hardened, a thinner layer is re-applied to the seam with tape.

After it has completely dried, a third layer of putty is applied. The recesses from the screws are also sealed. At the end, all rough spots are sanded down.