• Interior
• Window
• Walls
• Projects
• The buildings

Plastering walls with your own hands: preparation and process of finishing walls with plaster. How to quickly learn how to plaster walls at home in a new building or an old house: options for rough and high-quality plaster with your own hands How to plaster walls correctly

Not every home craftsman decides to plaster walls because of the apparent complexity of the work. We hasten to reassure you: special skills are required to complete large volumes of work in a short time. Anyone can master the basics of plastering with due care and patience.

Types of plaster coatings

Plaster itself extremely rarely acts as a finishing material for walls. The main purpose of its application is to level the surface both in the general plane and to eliminate local defects, for example, seams and protrusions of brickwork. Following this principle, there are several types of plaster:

1. Rough wiping (spraying) is used to improve adhesion between the outer finishing and load-bearing layer of the wall. In this way, surfaces are prepared for finishing, fixed with glue or cement mortar. Typical example— preparation for tiling.
2. Soil casting without smoothing is used as a special case of the previous type, when there is a need to level out significant curvatures of the wall plane or straighten the geometry of the room.
3. Finish plaster (covering) forms a perfectly flat surface with a minimum number of pores and defects. This method of rough finishing can be completed with wallpapering or puttying for painting.

In general, all three types plastering works are carried out sequentially in the given order until receiving required characteristics surfaces. There are also differences due to changes in the formulation of the plaster mortar. Depending on the required characteristics of the finished surface, plaster may have increased strength and hardness, hydrophobicity or low thermal conductivity. However, even with special requirements, the application technique does not differ from the basic one, only the composition of the solution changes.

Cement mortar for plaster

The material that is applied to the walls to create a plaster coating is ordinary sand concrete with a strength grade from M50 to M200. Because the plaster layer does not perform a direct load-bearing function; strength requirements are imposed to counteract external mechanical influences and tearing off of the plaster under its own weight.

In the classic version, the mortar for plastering work is prepared from washed river or mountain sand with a grain size of no more than 1.2 mm for grouting and no more than 2.5 mm for spraying and the main leveling layer. The binder for the solution is Portland cement grade 200 or 300, for especially durable plaster - grade 400. The content of the cement binder cannot be less than 70 kg per 1 ton of dry sand, but it is usually added in a ratio of 1:5 - 1:8 to the filler. Of course, the higher the grade of cement, the lower its content in the plaster solution.

The second option for preparing plaster mortar is with partial (from 40%) or complete replacement of the cement binder with hydrated lime or fluff. Lime milk must contain at least 30% lime by weight without unslaked inclusions. The main purpose of using lime is to entrain air to reduce the density of the plaster. Accordingly, the consumption of the binder is reduced, and the plaster itself has a lower density and places less load on the supporting system of the building.

Solutions are prepared at water based, the liquid content is standardized based on considerations of ensuring the required mobility of the mixture and its tendency to separate. Adding water is done after mixing the dry filler and binder, or by introducing completely dissolved cement into dry sand and then bringing the mixture to the desired consistency. The density of the solution for different layers of plaster is different: if the consistency of liquid sour cream is required for wiping the base, then the base layer is applied with a thicker paste, in which marks from pressing with a finger are not filled in for at least 2-3 minutes.

What surfaces can be plastered

A wide range of substrates are suitable for plastering work: masonry made of brick, cinder block or porous blocks, concrete grade no higher than M600, as well as prefabricated wooden structures. IN general case The suitability of the base for plaster is determined by adhesion, which provides a sufficiently high peel load limit.

Surfaces from heavy concrete before plastering, they are sanded to increase porosity and primed with compounds deep penetration, not forming a film. Wooden covering of sleepers or frame walls Before applying the plaster, it is covered with shingles or steel plaster mesh to improve the quality of adhesion to the base.

The mesh can also be used to fasten the plaster layer itself. In this case, it is filled after the initial wiping before installing the beacons. Basically, mesh reinforcement is required for plaster thicknesses from 25 to 40 mm. An additional argument in favor of strengthening can be the high mobility of the base, for example under unfavorable seismic conditions.

When and why are beacons needed?

Linear plaster beacons are necessary in cases where high demands on flatness are placed on the surface of the plaster. Beacons help to eliminate the formation of irregularities of more than 2 mm/m; in other cases, leveling with a tightening strip is sufficient.

Installation of beacons is carried out on small tubercles of ordinary plaster mortar with a small addition of building gypsum to speed up setting. To install each beacon, mix a small portion of the solution, which is applied to the wall pointwise along a vertical line with an indentation of 50-70 cm. After waiting 2-3 minutes until the solution thickens a little, apply a metal strip of the beacon to the wall and embed it in the lumps of mortar until it matches with the calculated plane of the wall.

Most convenient way alignment - bringing the top of all beacons under a common lacing, aligning them vertically with a slat bubble level, and then adjusting them with the rest of the beacons using a long rule. The distance between the beacons should be such that, given the existing length of the rule, in a horizontal position it rests on at least two adjacent beacons. If, after installing all the beacons, local irregularities are noted, the planks can be easily torn off and then re-glued with a new portion of the solution.

Preparing the base by spraying

The initial spraying is performed cement mortar liquid consistency. The mixture is rubbed over the wall in a layer about 2-3 mm thick, using a wide spatula or trowel. The remaining sagging can not be removed immediately, but wait until the composition has pre-set.

The main purpose of plastering preparation is to fill all the pores and depressions on the surface of the base. Therefore, the plaster is first carefully and forcefully rubbed in, scraping the base with a metal edge, and then the mixture is stretched into a more or less uniform layer. The latter is necessary to prevent the preparation surface from drying out before applying the next layer.

Throwing technique on walls

The leveling layer can be applied 10-14 hours after wiping. For leveling without beacons in a layer of up to 10 mm, it is allowed to apply the mortar to the wall using a spatula, grater or trowel, that is, simply spreading thin layers one after another with control using a rule bar. For a thicker layer, use a plaster ladle.

The walls of the bucket have a special shape that ensures easy sliding of the mixture when thrown. The movement should take place practically horizontal plane with a slight (up to 20º) tilt of the bucket towards the wall. In this case, the plaster is knocked into a dense lump and flies off the bucket with a slight upward throw.

The collision of the mixture with the wall must occur with a fairly large force, so the throw is performed with smooth acceleration without swinging and sharp braking. At the same time, at the moment of collision, the solution is compacted tightly and gets rid of air pores. Throwing plaster onto the wall is carried out in sections of 1-1.5 m2 in such a way that the adhered lumps protrude above the plane of installation of the beacons of about 7-10 mm. After filling one area, excess mixture is removed with the beveled part of the rule and mixed with fresh solution. Protruding mounds are cut off with the pointed side of the rail quite simply, but in addition to moving from bottom to top, they usually also perform longitudinal vibrations.

Grouting plaster

Drying of the base layer before grouting can be either complete or partial within 2-3 days. After the mixture has set, the beacons are pulled out, and the formed furrows are filled with the same solution that was used during the casting.

The resulting surface may have numerous defects, cracks and depressions, but the cut planes of the bumps form the basis for working with a polyurethane float of the appropriate size. The solution is first pressed into the recesses in small portions, and then rubbed over the surface in a circular motion without applying an additional layer. Due to the more liquid consistency of the wiping solution, it mixes with crumbling aggregate particles, so the surface of the plaster becomes durable and monolithic.

Drying and post-processing

Plastered surfaces are ready for finishing after a full curing period: solutions with a cement binder dry within 28 days, with a lime binder - within 20 days. During the first half of the established period, the surface should not be allowed to dry out, accompanied by the formation of a web of cracks due to uneven hydration. To eliminate such phenomena, high humidity is maintained in the room: containers with water are installed, and the plaster itself is periodically sprayed with water using a broom or hand sprayer.

Before applying the final finish, the plaster can be treated with a deep-penetrating strengthening primer. Before painting, it is also possible to wipe with gypsum putty of a thin consistency to fill the pores and reduce paint consumption.

We will send the material to you by e-mail

Sooner or later, the topic of renovation comes up in every home. The final appearance of the room will depend on the quality of the preparatory work carried out. By applying force once high-quality finishing, in the future it will only be possible to periodically re-paste the wallpaper or change the color of the walls. Initially, it may seem that the work cannot be completed by a non-professional craftsman. But you can try to make at least rough sketches. In addition to moral satisfaction, this will also significantly save your personal budget. This review describes in detail the entire technological process, how to plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner. Videos and step-by-step instructions will help you understand the construction nuances.

Start of the process

The main purpose of plaster is to level the geometry of wall and ceiling bases in order to eliminate unevenness or defects. It is used for rough finishing. The application technology allows the mixture to be applied in a thick layer in case of large deviations. By plastering the walls in the apartment, you can get the most even foundations.

According to its composition, plaster is as follows:

• plaster;
• cement.
• limestone;
• lime-cement;
• lime-gypsum;
• gypsum cement.

The most important difference between them is the drying time of the solution. Gypsum mortar requires up to a week to dry completely, cement mortar will take about a month. Therefore, compositions with should be used in cases where it is necessary to achieve maximum durability.

This coating will last for several decades. Modern manufacturers introduce mortar mixture polymer additives that speed up drying up to two days. The cement mixture is used to level surfaces in basements or for laying tiles.

The process of leveling walls with plaster with your own hands is quite labor-intensive, so gypsum solutions are often used. With gypsum compositions, it is important to maintain humidity conditions. Gypsum plaster can be applied in one layer, which significantly saves the budget. Finishing is carried out both on a brick base and on wooden surfaces. To achieve perfect smoothness, the coating should be puttied after the plaster has dried.

Beginners are better suited to cement polymer additives plaster walls. Video tutorials will help you understand and painstakingly complete the entire process in compliance with the technological sequence.

Plaster, putty - similarities and differences

A man far from construction terms, at first glance, will decide that these are synonyms for one type of construction work. In fact, these concepts have both similarities and significant differences. Both materials are intended for leveling surfaces, but this is where the similarity ends.

Related article:

Plaster and putty - what is the difference And common features, in what cases they should be used, recommendations from experts - read about this and much more in our review.

putty

Manufacturers offer a dry composition or a ready-made plastic solution. Cement, gypsum and polymers are added as binders. Using putty, you can smooth out small surface defects and make the base smooth after plastering. For cracks up to 10 millimeters in size, a starting composition is used. used for final leveling of surfaces.

You cannot mix starting and finishing putty. Compositions of different homogeneity can form additional defects on the substrates.

Plaster

Using plaster, you can level surfaces with deviations of up to 15 centimeters. In addition, it acts as thermal insulation of surfaces, in some cases additional moisture protection.

Plaster can be ordinary or decorative. The composition contains large grains. It is used as a rough leveling or finishing structural coating.

When applying putty and plaster, use different technologies. For plaster this happens as follows:

• The first layer is applied using the spray method, which hides large surface defects. In addition, it serves as additional adhesion to subsequent layers;
• the implementation of the middle layer ensures the leveling of surfaces;
• finishing putty or coating – finally smoothes the base.

Apply using individual technology. The plaster composition needs several days to dry completely, the putty is ready the next day.

Advice from an experienced master: how to plaster walls correctly

Before execution repair work it is necessary to study the features of the base of wall surfaces. The method of performing the work will depend on this. For smooth walls A spatula and level are enough. Substrates with large defects and deviations can only be leveled using. You may need a large amount of mixture. In this case, additional reinforcement should be performed on the wall.

There are several rules for plastering walls:

• first of all, the wall surfaces are cleaned and primed;
• in the second stage, the bulk of the plaster is applied and distributed;
• At the final stage, the base is covered and cleaned.

A video on how to properly plaster walls will help you complete all the work correctly:

Consumables and tools for plastering walls

• plaster;
• primer for pre-treatment of wall bases;
• beacons in case of large surface deviations;
• the rule for aluminum plaster is 2 m long for drawing out the composition and 2.5 m for installing beacons;
• bubble level at least 2 meters long;
• spatula 15 cm wide;
• construction float;
• trowel;
• bucket;
• roller with tray or brush for priming;
• gloves;
• perforator with a nozzle for stirring the mixture;
• dowels, screws, Phillips screwdriver, metal scissors for cutting beacons;
• hammer;
• metal ironing;
• roulette;
• plumb line

Some tools are already available in every home. Something will have to be purchased or rented. But this is not a tool for one repair; everything will be useful in subsequent repairs. You could say it’s an investment in the future. Now we know what tools are needed for plastering walls, we can start making repairs.

What you need to know to prepare high-quality plaster

For cooking cement plaster, you should mix cement with sand in a ratio of 1:3. Water is gradually poured into the composition with constant stirring. The result should be a solution with the consistency of sour cream with high fat content. Before mixing, you should read the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations. If repair work is carried out in a room with high humidity, experts advise adding lime. It will remove excess moisture and make the microclimate more comfortable.

For surfaces made of concrete and foam concrete blocks, it is recommended to use gypsum-lime plaster. Its plasticity is well maintained on the base. To prepare such a solution, pour gypsum into a bucket of water in a thin stream, then quickly mix everything, adding milk of lime. This mixture is applied quite easily, and will help beginners get their hands on finishing work.

To plaster walls with your own hands, you can buy a ready-made mixture, which is offered in a wide variety in construction hypermarkets and stores. This is the most easy way preparatory work.

Preparing walls for plastering

The work process of preparing the surface for plastering begins with cleaning the base from previous coatings. After that, the level of deviations should be determined in order to determine whether additional work is needed or can be done without.

Then you should carefully prime all bases with a brush or roller. It is necessary to choose a deep penetration primer; there is no need to skimp on the composition at this stage, this will help the putty to adhere well to the surfaces. In addition, it will protect the walls from excess moisture and prevent the occurrence of mold and fungus, which can cause corrosion of the material.

Do-it-yourself plastering of walls without beacons, video of step-by-step application

Before applying plaster on the walls with your own hands without beacons, after the primer has dried, you should thoroughly moisten all bases with water.

Photo	Description of work
	Before starting work, we clear the floor of debris so that it is convenient to collect the fallen solution, and all sockets are closed.
	All walls are dampened
	Spread the mixture with a spatula onto a 1 m² base in random order. We perform all actions with the hand. This is important so that the mixture hits the base accurately and does not scatter. It is necessary to just apply it, then the plaster will penetrate into the hollow places of the walls, in addition, this method will increase adhesion to the surface.
	Use a grater to smooth out the wall using random movements. Layer thickness is about 5-7 mm. All surfaces are gradually plastered using similar movements. Work should start from the floor to the ceiling. There is no need to perfectly level the base; a rough surface will improve the adhesion of the second layer. The drying time of the first layer should be at least 2 hours.
	After the first layer has dried, you need to go over all surfaces as usual. It will remove all large irregularities. Construction tool should be pressed tightly to the base and all walls should be leveled with arbitrary movements.
	When performing the second layer, the solution is applied to the base with a trowel using a spatula. Leveling should be done with some effort and voluntary movements.
	After setting, it is necessary to check the quality of application. Protruding bumps are removed in a circular motion with a construction float, which should be periodically moistened with water. This will help with quick soaking and better removal of the mixture. To remove depressions, you need to rub a small amount of plaster into these places. The second stage levels the walls as much as possible. Drying time is about 3 hours.
	The third stage is the most painstaking. It is necessary to level the wall surfaces with a thin layer until they are as smooth as possible. The plaster should be diluted with a small amount of water to a more liquid state. Work is carried out from top to bottom. The solution is poured onto the walls with a ladle and smoothed in a circular motion until perfectly smooth. Drying time – up to 8 hours.
	The grout will give the walls a velvety feel. The surfaces are spilled with water, then a construction trowel should be walked over them. This step can be omitted if tiling or stone cladding is planned in the future.
	Excess mortar is removed from the ceiling surface.

Drying time is several days at average temperature and moderate humidity. At elevated temperature All surfaces should be periodically moistened with water to avoid the formation of cracks.

If in the instructions on how to level walls without beacons, some points are not clear, watch the video with an accessible description of the entire technological process:

Step-by-step application of plaster on walls with your own hands using beacons: video with detailed description

If the deviations on the base are large enough, plastering should be carried out with additional installation of beacons. After preliminary preparation and treating the surfaces with a primer, their installation begins. If work is carried out in rooms with high humidity or with large defects in the foundations, you should fix the mesh for additional reinforcement before leveling the walls along the beacons with your own hands. Video tutorials will help you do the work correctly. It is secured using a mixture or dowels.

The sequence of plastering work is similar to the process without installing beacons. The solution is applied in a dense layer between the beacons with a slight extension beyond them. As a rule, using zigzag movements from below towards the top, the plaster is leveled. The excess is removed with a spatula, the voids are filled with new solution. After passing the entire surface, leveling must be repeated from top to bottom.

At the end of the work, you should check the result using the rule. The protruding parts are rubbed down. After which it is necessary to perform leveling with a liquid mixture. Before work, you can look professional videos plastering on lighthouses for beginners. This will prevent mistakes in repair work.

Methods for installing beacons - advantages of fastening with screws

Placing beacons under plaster can be done in two ways: using plaster mixture or using self-tapping screws. For non-professional craftsmen, it is better to choose the second fastening method. A reliable and fast method proves the advantages of such fastening, including financial ones.

Photo	Description of work
	The level makes vertical markings at a distance less than the length of the rule by 20 centimeters.
	Using a hammer drill, holes are drilled for beacons around the perimeter.
	Dowels 8x40 mm are driven in with a hammer.
	Screws 40-45 mm long for plaster layers up to 30 mm. In areas with a thicker layer, longer fasteners should be used.
	The heads of the beacon screws should be aligned with a level along the perimeter.
	The fastening elements for the beacons are fixed on the screws.
	Attaching beacons around the perimeter.
	Work is carried out similarly on the entire surface of the walls.
	The wall is checked with a thread for the presence of protrusions. If the base protrudes too much, it can be adjusted by screwing in a screw.
	The template checks and aligns all the caps.
	All elements and beacons are fixed.

This method saves time exactly four times. The video below describes the entire installation process quite clearly:

At the end of the work, professionals recommend removing the beacons and sealing the resulting stripes with a solution so that rust does not appear during operation. This is a controversial opinion. If the beacons were purchased from a branded retailer and they are of good quality, there is no need to remove them.

Plaster mixtures - varieties, advantages, disadvantages

A wide variety of solutions puts an unprofessional craftsman in a difficult position. Before choosing the best way to plaster the walls in an apartment, you should study the manufacturer’s instructions for using the compounds. A properly selected mixture will last for decades.

Plastering walls with your own hands using cement mortar: video tutorials from masters

One of the most durable and labor-intensive solutions, on the one hand, and the longest lasting when applied correctly, on the other. The main disadvantage of coverage is the need to perform finishing putty. Plastering walls with cement mortar along the beacons allows you to hide large deviations and surface defects. To correctly complete the entire process, you can preview different videos professional craftsmen, which are posted on the Internet.

The cement mixture behaves well in rooms with high humidity, for example in the kitchen or bathroom. It does not lose its properties in garages, on plinths, in basements.

How to plaster walls with gypsum plaster: video and professional nuances

Gypsum compositions are only suitable for indoor work. The main advantage of this method is that no additional plastering of surfaces is required. Using a plastic compound, you can level the bases to an ideal state. The negative aspects of leveling walls with gypsum plaster include increased humidity in the premises, for the finishing of which other compositions should be used.

A significant difference from other solutions is the drying time. Literally after 10-15 minutes the solution becomes unusable, so you should calculate the speed of work and do not dilute the mixture in large quantities. Gypsum plaster is convenient for working on ceiling surfaces or corners. You can watch a video master class on leveling ceilings and other bases.

Do-it-yourself finishing plaster: video of interesting applications

For finishing, dry mixtures or ready-made compositions. The choice should be made depending on the purpose of the room. For internal ones, you can use cement-based plaster. For internal bases, a gypsum composition is suitable. Polymer is universal mixture, various additives allow it to be used on almost any surface.

To plaster walls for painting, manufacturers offer special compositions with different structures.

Photo	Type of solution
	Structural solution - the composition contains large grains and wood fibers. The final design of surfaces depends on the particle size.
	The relief composition is interspersed with marble elements and artificial fibers.
	A textured mixture - various additives and a heterogeneous structure; you can apply an application that imitates a bark beetle.
	Terrazite composition - glass particles, mica and marble chips. Grains can be up to 6 mm in size.
	Flock plaster is a composition with acrylic flakes. The final coating can be treated with a varnish composition.

For plastering walls under wallpaper perfect alignment you can't achieve it. Textured wallpaper will partially hide minor irregularities. Absolute gloss is important for painting. The process of finishing putty is quite labor-intensive and can take a lot of time and attention. But the result will delight you with its impeccability.

How to plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner: video and features of application to various surfaces

Modern production offers a wide variety of plaster mixtures. Before plastering walls with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the characteristics, composition and recommendations for use. Different surfaces require a different approach.

Brickwork works

Plastering walls can be done with either cement mortar or gypsum mixture. For exterior work, only a cement mixture is suitable. Since this type of work is carried out on the initial masonry, it must be completed flawlessly, avoiding swelling and defects. It is important to consider the execution time. If construction works were carried out not very long ago, the walls should be given some time to shrink so that cracking does not occur.

If you need to plaster brick walls with a previously applied finish, it should be completely removed. And only after complete cleansing of dust and dirt should you begin repair work. Brick base involves the installation of beacons, since the walls have quite large defects and deviations. All the following works are similar.

To help you learn how to plaster a brick wall with your own hands, you can read: step by step process in the review, watch this video tutorial:

Work on concrete surfaces

For concrete walls, plastering work should be carried out more carefully. For better adhesion to the previous layer, the plaster should be rubbed in with some force for a more durable connection. Otherwise, the entire application process is no different from performing work on beacons.

Wooden wall plaster

The process of plastering wooden walls inside a house is somewhat different from the previous ones. The main difference is that plaster does not adhere to a clean wooden surface. First you need to make a frame from the sheathing, which can be made of wooden slats or metal mesh.

During installation wooden sheathing or shingles, thin slats with dimensions from 3x15 to 5x20 mm are used. When purchasing, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the wood; it must have light color. When fastening, the nails are not driven in completely, but to the middle, so that the head can be bent and additionally press the rail.

Advice! To prevent deformation of the shingles, all ends of the planks should be well secured.

Under the sheathing, you can install additional thermal insulation from felt, having previously impregnated it with an antiseptic. The metal mesh is attached in a similar way.

Before plastering a wooden wall, carefully watch the instructional videos. The process is not complicated, but you should know many nuances of the technological sequence. The mixture is applied as usual. You need to be careful when pouring the mortar onto the sheathing; there may be voids behind it. Therefore, work should be performed at an angle of 45° alternately on one side and the other.

Foundation plaster

Before plastering the foundation of a house with your own hands, you must completely clean all surfaces of dirt, dust and greasy deposits. If the concrete base is more than a year old, you can apply notches for better adhesion of the mortar. On a brick foundation, use a spatula to clean all the seams from the old mortar.

In the second stage, all surfaces are generously primed, then deep defects are leveled with cement mortar. The same mixture should be used to fill previously cleaned joints in the brickwork.

To ensure reliable adhesion of the mortar to the foundation, you can pre-tension and secure the metal mesh. After which you can begin the technological sequence of applying cement mortar. All work must be carried out in warm, dry weather.

Good to know! To improve the quality of the cement mortar, you can add PVA glue, thanks to which the mortar will acquire some plasticity and will be easier to work with.

Conclusion

Now we know all the features and capabilities of plastering walls and can independently carry out the entire process, from rough wall finishing to decoration. The knowledge gained will help you approach the choice of material responsibly and technological process. And additional exercise stress It will only be useful.

How and with what to plaster walls?

When carrying out major repairs of residential or production premises inevitably there is a need to eliminate irregularities and ensure flatness. Knowing how to plaster walls, you can do the work yourself, while saving financial resources. It is important to choose the right type of mixture, understand the technological subtleties, and learn how to use the tool. The recommendations given in the article will help you perform the work correctly, ensure surface quality and avoid unexpected mistakes.

Which plaster is better for plastering walls?

Carrying out finishing activities requires vocational training and requires qualified selection of materials. It is advisable to entrust the selection plaster composition and finishing by specialists. When carrying out activities on your own, it is important to study, before mixing the components and plastering the walls, what is the best way to carry out finishing work.

Depending on the specifics of the work, various types of working mixtures are used for plastering. Let's consider the types of compositions used:

• sand-cement. It is used when it is necessary to apply plaster in a thick layer on the external or inside buildings. The mixture is prepared from available ingredients, which when affordable price provide increased reliability finishing coating. The preparation process is quite simple. It involves mixing Portland cement with river sand, with the gradual introduction of water to the required consistency. Depending on the brand of cement, its ratio with sand ranges from 1:2 to 1:5. A special feature of the cement-sand composition is its long hardening period, due to which the mixture can be prepared in increased quantities. This makes finishing work on larger areas easier. The finished mixture can be purchased in specialized stores, then mixed independently according to the recipe indicated on the package;
• gypsum-lime, as well as gypsum-clay with the addition of lime. They are used to ensure the flatness of wooden walls, as well as to carry out finishing activities on the interior of premises. The preparation technology involves mixing gypsum and lime in a 1:3 ratio with the addition of clay to improve bonding. The gypsum composition is prepared in a separate container with water, into which the gypsum is quickly poured and mixed thoroughly. All that remains is to add dissolved lime - the plaster composition is ready. A feature of the gypsum composition is rapid hardening, reduced thermal conductivity, and increased adhesion. Disadvantages include susceptibility to high moisture concentrations and the need to prepare small portions due to accelerated hardening. Gypsum plaster hardens within 7 days with a layer thickness of up to 5 cm;

The best way to plaster walls depends on the home owner’s wallet, as well as on the characteristics of the room in which repairs are required.

• calcareous. Lime-cement is prepared from cement, lime paste and sand in a ratio of 1:2:7. Sand is mixed with dry cement with the introduction of lime “milk” and the addition of water. Clay-lime is prepared by combining lime paste with clay and gradually introducing sand. Clay dough in liquid consistency, mortar and sand are mixed in a ratio of 1:3:5. Sand and lime based plaster involves adding from 1 to 5 parts sand to one part lime. The consistency of the sand-lime mixture should be doughy. The mixture should stick slightly to the working tool. Using lime-based plastering compositions, you can significantly reduce the concentration of moisture in the room, which contributes to the formation of dampness, and also insulate the walls.

Developers make the final decision on the best way to plaster walls when performing finishing activities individually, depending on the following factors:

• building material;
• humidity level;
• availability of ingredients;
• financial opportunities;
• timing of activities;
• assigned tasks.

Each of the presented finishing compositions has its own advantages and disadvantages, which you should pay attention to when solving the problem of choice.

Cement-sand mortar. Can be used to level internal and external surfaces

How to plaster walls - tools and application rules

Every homeowner wants the premises to have high-quality plastered walls after completing finishing work. This is achieved by using professional tool, compliance with technology.

Initially, you need to prepare a tool to perform the work:

• a medium-hard steel wire brush used to ensure surface cleanliness;
• teeth, reminiscent of a chisel with a toothed working part, facilitating the application of grooves to improve adhesion;
• falcon, which is a square shield with a handle, which is used as a platform for the plaster composition;
• a spatula designed for mixing the plaster composition and applying it to the surface, followed by rubbing;
• a trowel, which is a platform up to 1 m long with a handle, facilitating the leveling of the plaster composition;
• a grater used when performing finishing operations, facilitating grinding and final finishing;
• usually in the form of a strip made of wood or metal up to 2 m long, designed to ensure the flatness of the applied layer;
• plumb line or building level, facilitating control of work in the horizontal and vertical plane.

Anyone can learn how to plaster walls, although it will be more difficult for a beginner to do it than for a professional plasterer

After preparing the tools necessary to perform the work, you should study the technological sequence of operations. Standard technology finishing includes the following steps:

1. Preparatory work to ensure the cleanliness of the treated surface and improve adhesion.
2. Installation of guides (beacons), which are a guideline for ensuring flatness.
3. Application of the plaster composition and preliminary finishing, forming a finishing surface.
4. Removing the guide elements, filling the cavities with cement and preliminary grouting the surface.
5. Finishing, which is carried out on a hardening mass and is carried out cyclically with radial movements.

Each construction project has its own characteristics, according to which the developer determines the feasibility of performing certain stages. Let's dwell on the main technological points.

Getting ready to plaster the walls: how to ensure adhesion

Carry out measures to prepare the surface for plastering according to the following algorithm:

• Inspect and clean the walls with the obligatory removal of plaster residues, sagging, greasy stains, fasteners and dirt.

If you find significant cracks or any other mechanical damage on the wall, they need to be widened and then cleaned of the existing sand.

• Seal the cracks in brick surface and cracks that impair sound insulation and increase heat loss.
• Treat the work area with a deeply penetrating primer, which makes it difficult to absorb moisture, providing improved adhesion.
• Perform three-millimeter notches on a smooth surface using the impact method, using a toothed tooth, followed by cleaning the wall and moistening it.
• Type on wooden base diagonal sheathing or chain-link mesh, and, if necessary, reinforce with plastic mesh.
• Prepare the working composition for plastering work in the required volume by selecting the appropriate recipe.

Having completed the surface preparation, you can begin applying the mixture.

Learning to plaster: how to apply the solution correctly

Carry out operations for applying the plaster composition, following the given sequence:

1. Check the readiness of the instrument and the consistency of the solution.
2. Lightly dampen the base until moisture is absorbed.
3. Take a portion of the mixture that is placed on the surface of the falcon.
4. Take the mortar using a plaster spatula and apply it.

   results Vote

   Where would you prefer to live: in a private house or apartment?

   Back

   Where would you prefer to live: in a private house or apartment?

   Back

   

   Plastering in a plane (using a rule) is a good option, if the walls are relatively smooth

   Form a layer 30–40 mm thick on the surface.

   Level the plastered surface with a trowel.

   Check the flatness using a rule, removing excess mixture.

   Fill any defects in the plaster with the mixture and smooth it out.

   Grout in a circular motion using a float using cyclic movements.

   When performing work, pay attention to the following points:

   • correct sketching using the hand;
   • preventing splashing of the mixture;
   • control of the thickness of the applied composition;
   • layer-by-layer planning with a grater;
   • reuse of the solution removed by the rule;
   • sealing small cracks with a spatula.

   How to plaster on beacons

   In case of significant defects in the treated surface or the presence of height differences, it is necessary to carry out plastering measures using beacons, which guarantee the ideal flatness of the plaster.

   

   This method allows you to get an almost flat surface at the output.

   Can be used as guides:

   • wooden planks that are nailed to wood walls;
   • standard beacons made of aluminum alloy or steel, fixed with cement.

   Perform beacon installation work according to the following algorithm:

   1. Cut the guides according to the dimensions of the room.
   2. Prepare the walls, clean them of dirt, and moisten them with water.
   3. Beat off the vertical 20 cm from the corner area of ​​the room.
   4. Mark the areas for installing the guides in increments of 50–100 cm.
   5. Prepare a binder solution based on cement or alabaster with a mixer.
   6. Sprinkle small portions of the mixture onto the marked areas.
   7. Take the guides, apply them to the piles and immerse them in the cement.
   8. Check the location and ensure a distance of 1.5–2 cm from the wall.
   9. Fix the final position of the beacons using concrete mortar.
   10. Fill the space between the guides with plaster mortar.
   11. Ensure the layer height is a couple of millimeters above the edges of the guides.
   12. Apply the rule, press lightly and move, removing excess mixture.
   13. Fill voids and level until flat.
   14. Allow final curing for 10–14 days.

   After the plaster has dried, finishing can be done or a finishing coat can be applied.

   

   How to plaster slopes?

   The most labor-intensive and critical stage when performing plastering activities is ensuring the plane of the slopes, forming corner zones, as well as surface treatment window openings. The use of guides greatly facilitates the plastering process.

   Providing marketable condition slopes, perform operations in compliance with the following recommendations:

   1. Cut the beacons according to the size of the slopes.
   2. Secure the guides in the traditional manner.
   3. Fill the areas where the ceilings and walls meet with mortar.
   4. Grout the slopes with a trowel.
   5. Eliminate defects, check the thickness of the mortar layer as a rule.

   If you have the appropriate qualifications, you can plaster slopes without using guides - only using the rule. Using the above technology, all internal and external areas at horizontal as well as vertical joints are processed. Please note that measures for finishing slopes on the street side should be carried out only at positive temperatures. After the solution has hardened, final grouting is carried out and the correct application of the mixture is checked.

   Conclusion

   Plastering walls from various materials is a responsible operation that affects the presentation and durability of building structures. It is necessary to choose the right composition for finishing work, strictly follow the requirements of the technology, and also master the rules of working with special tool. The advice from professionals given in the article will help in selecting materials, as well as when performing work.

Well-prepared walls for further repairs are a guarantee that in the future any coating will lie perfectly evenly and beautifully on them. Therefore, you should not neglect this type of work such as plastering walls with your own hands, even if you decide to change the interior not in new apartment, but in a house in which you have lived for a long time. We will discuss further how to choose the right material and what the sequence of work should be.

How to choose the type of plaster

First, you need to decide what type of plaster to choose - the so-called dry or wet. Covering the walls with plasterboard boards will be dry, which will save some time. However, this type of work is beneficial only for premises with a large area, since in conditions small apartments plasterboard slabs will significantly “conceal” the area.

Plastering walls in an apartment using the “wet” method involves applying various building mixtures to the surface. It is also worth considering one thing here important point- what material are the walls of the room being repaired made of and where are we going to plaster - outside or inside the building. Let's take a closer look at examples.

Brick walls

1. For walls with brickwork Cement-based mixtures are ideal, in some cases with the addition of lime in small volumes, which gives the plaster greater plasticity. It makes sense to add a certain amount of lime when plastering walls with cement mortar outside the building or in rooms where there is or is expected to be high air humidity.
2. The thickness of the plaster for bricks should not exceed 3 cm, in cases where a layer of more than 2 cm is expected to be applied. Before applying the cement mixture, it is necessary to cover the walls with a layer of chain-link mesh, which will keep the heavy dried mixture on the surface.
3. We mix the cement mixture as follows - mix clean sand and dry cement and dilute with water to a thick consistency. If we decide to add a lime component, sand will be added in slightly larger proportions, and an aqueous lime solution will be added to the composition of the finished cement-sand solution.
4. An important point - if our brickwork of walls consists of facing bricks, the work will be difficult due to the fact that this material has too much smooth surface and it will be difficult to hold heavy cement mixtures on it, even with the use of a chain-link mesh. In such a situation, it is better to choose special compositions or entrust the work to persons with appropriate qualifications who know how to apply technologies for applying plaster to difficult-to-reach surfaces. ordinary person surfaces and know what materials to choose for wall treatment.

Concrete walls

If the surface of the walls of the room consists of concrete, then before applying plaster it must be primed with a special solution. It is advisable to choose a primer with the addition of quartz particles; they will ensure reliable adhesion of the wall material to the future plaster mixture.
For concrete surfaces, plastering walls with gypsum plaster is suitable - this is the case when gypsum powder or a solution based on a mixture of gypsum and lime is added to the cement mixture.

An important addition is that lime, gypsum and cement mixtures are prepared separately and only then mixed to a homogeneous and thick consistency.

Walls made of foam concrete blocks

Modern houses and buildings are most often Lately, are built using foam concrete blocks. Such surfaces must not only be primed before the plastering process, but also apply a special reinforcing mesh - “serpyanka”, made of special fiberglass.
The solution for making a plaster mixture can be used either gypsum or cement and with the addition of a lime mixture. In any case, you should carefully study the instructions for all components and do not neglect the quality of the selected materials.

The key to the longevity of walls is not only in correctly selected materials for their manufacture, but also in well-chosen mixtures for their processing.

Wooden walls

If you decide to plaster walls made of wood, then before applying the plaster mixture you need to make and secure a special mesh (shingles) of wooden slats over all treated surfaces. The shingles in a mesh form are hammered onto the wall gradually; an important point is that the nails are not driven in completely; half of the nail, together with the head, is bent to the side.

Another option for preparing wooden walls is to install a specially reinforcing metal mesh and secure it to the surface of the walls before applying the plaster mixture.

Preparing the premises to be renovated

After we have decided on the type of walls, selected and purchased all the necessary building materials, we begin to prepare the room to be processed.

Stages of our preparation

1. First of all, it is worth considering that any work using plaster is a “dirty” business. Dust and particles of the composition can scatter throughout the room and, after drying, will be removed with maximum effort. Therefore, if you have started renovations in an already inhabited premises or an “occupied” office, you should remove as much furniture, equipment and belongings as possible. Move the remaining items to the center of the room and carefully cover them with film or unnecessary newspapers. Ideally, it would be a good idea to turn off the power to the room so as not to dirty the sockets and protect lighting. And don’t forget about the floor - if there is already some flooring- it would be better to close it too.
2. We clean the walls from the previous coating. If the surface was previously treated with wallpaper, moisten it with water or a special mixture and remove the remaining glue and finishing using a spatula. If whitewash has been applied to the walls, we also treat with water, wash off the paint as much as possible with a sponge and brush, and also remove the residue with a scraper or spatula. In particularly difficult cases, folk craftsmen advise applying liquid paste to the whitewash and, after it has completely dried, clean everything off with brushes and spatulas.
3. We repair large cracks in the walls. If, after removing the previous coating, we find unevenness or microcracks under the walls, we prepare them for applying the future plaster mixture. Using a knife or grinder (for large cracks), we deepen and widen especially noticeable cracks. We fill it with a building mixture solution and be sure to secure it with sickle tape so that the surface to be repaired is as smooth as possible. If the cracks are not that big, filling them with construction sealant or silicone glue is quite acceptable. For large cracks it is allowed to use polyurethane foam, even in a situation where the primer has not yet dried.
4. We improve the adhesion of walls and plaster mortar by applying notches. If the wall is made of brick, you can deepen the distance between the bricks at the seams to 1 cm, but if the wall is made of concrete, we make the notches ourselves using a hammer and chisel. It is necessary to apply notches no more than 1.5 cm long and up to 0.3 cm deep to each square meter of surface.
5. We treat the surface to be repaired by applying a primer solution. We dilute it in proportions of 1:6 or 1:10 in accordance with the dosage indicated in the instructions. In some situations, it is possible to combine the priming and notching stages by simply adding fine quartz sand to the primer mixture. This composition will improve the adhesion of the wall and plaster during its application.
6. Work on plastering walls must begin in a room that has been previously cleared of dirt and debris with a dried primer mixture.

Primer of walls

If all the preparatory work has been carried out with due diligence, then the next stage of our work is the actual plastering of the walls under wallpaper or other coating of your choice.

If you are working in a room with uneven walls or it is necessary to plaster the walls before painting, then it is better to carry out surface plastering work using so-called beacons.

Since when painting or any further processing of walls it is necessary to obtain the most even surface of the wall, then the application of the plaster mixture must be done in an even and uniform layer, for this it is necessary.

Beacons for walls made of wood will be a fixed mesh or wooden shingles; for surfaces with brickwork or consisting of concrete, it is possible to install metal guides or beacons made of building or gypsum mortar.

Stages of work carried out

• plastering walls with your own hands using beacons begins with marking the surface to be repaired - at a distance of no more than 20 cm, we drive a self-tapping screw with a weight onto the ropes at the top of the wall, at the bottom of an improvised plumb line into the right level fasten another nail;
• between the installed screws we throw several piles mortar and secure metallic profile lighthouse;
• according to the proven scheme, we install metal beacons at the end of the wall, in the middle and between them, observing the rule that the distance between the beacons is kept at 1 meter;
• after the mortar has hardened on the lighthouses, rough plastering of the walls is carried out - the construction mixture is applied over the entire surface of the lighthouses, protruding beyond their boundaries by no more than 2-3 cm;
• using the rule, we fill the remaining voids - we apply plaster from the bottom up, thus filling all the voids and removing any excess mortar;
• plaster is applied to the walls using the rule until the surface begins to look perfectly smooth, and, of course, within the maximum possible thickness of the plaster layer - up to 3 cm, after which we wait for the construction mixture to dry completely and begin further processing surfaces - painting, gluing or processing with other finishing materials.

Using the rule for plaster

Features of the manufactured plaster mixture

We have already talked about the types of mortar produced, now we will note some subtleties depending on the composition of the plaster:

1. Cement-based plaster is prepared from 3 parts sand and 1 part cement mixture and is used within an hour after preparation. That is why you should be extremely careful and cook only required amount mixture, otherwise the remaining composition will dry out and its use will be impossible.
2. A cement-lime mixture is made from 1 part cement, 5-6 parts sand and 1 part lime composition.
3. Gypsum plaster made from 3 parts of lime diluted to a dough and 1 part of powdered gypsum dries and hardens the fastest, so it is recommended to make them before the application process itself and in small quantities.

How to apply plaster correctly

If we plaster walls with our own hands without beacons or with them, it is important to know not only the sequence of work, but also the technique of applying the plaster mixture:

• The first layer of plaster will be a spray applied using special device- trowels. The mixture is poured onto it in the required quantity and applied from a short distance to the surface of the walls with a wave of the hand; we do this not so sharply that the entire solution does not fly away in different directions.
• Apply a light primer layer using a trowel or spatula.
• We place the covering layer of the mixture on top of the wet soil; it is important not to let it dry out, otherwise you will have to re-wet the surface.
• We level the surface of the walls according to the rule, and after drying, we go over them with sandpaper or a special machine, only then the plastering of the walls will be considered complete.

So, no matter how complicated the process of plastering walls may seem to us, with a sufficient level of preparation and simple construction skills, it is quite possible to do it yourself. If you doubt your abilities, the surface of the walls is quite uneven or consists of complex materials that require the use of special skills, do not be lazy to include in the repair costs the assistance and assistance of real specialists in their field.

Plastering walls allows you to level their surface for further finishing of the area with putty, tile ceramic tiles. If you try and plaster correctly, following the technology, then in the future you get an ideal surface that allows you to complete the finishing without problems and the cost of additional labor.

High quality final finishing half depends on the flatness of the surface on which it is performed. In addition, an important role is played by the overconsumption of an expensive finishing component, which will be used instead of an inexpensive starting mixture for plastering work.

Various formulations for application

Plastering can be done with various compositions and components, depending on material wealth and expectations of the final effect.

Wet plaster

Prepared from original natural ingredients, mixed by hand or in electric mortar mixers:

Application of dry mixtures

IN modern conditions construction production dry plastering ready-made mixtures, which are carefully crushed and modernized during the manufacturing process in the factory. The mixture contains gypsum components. Such dry mixtures should only be mixed with water in sufficient quantity and can be applied to the walls.

They are very convenient to work with, since gypsum makes them plastic and increases adhesion to various substrates. A small drawback is that ready-made aqueous solutions They harden quite quickly, but for craftsmen this is not a burdening factor - they manage to work out the solution long before it sets. Dry mixtures are divided into:

• for plastering interior spaces, gypsum-sand compositions with the addition of modernized components are used;
• plastering of external walls is done with cement-gypsum mixtures with plastic additives.

Plastering technology

Perform plastering walls can be done in two ways:

Acceptance tolerances for plastered surfaces

Requirements for the quality of work are specified in SNiP III-21–1973 and are classified by difficulty for high quality, advanced and simple plaster.

Simple plaster is used in rooms with small quality requirements; deviations from the vertical are allowed within 0.3 cm per 1 linear meter, provided that the total vertical deviation in a standard room with a height of 2.5 m does not exceed 0.75 cm. Smooth plaster is allowed depressions and protrusions in the amount of 3 pieces for every 4 m2, provided that they are no more than 5 mm. Horizontal deviation is allowed no more than 3 mm per linear meter.

The requirements set out in SNiP for improved plaster allow for fewer irregularities. The vertical wall can deviate no more than 0.2 cm per linear meter; the total deviation allows an error of no more than 1 cm over the entire height of the room. For the same 4 meters, no more than two depressions are allowed or bulges 0.3 cm deep. Along a horizontal straight line, a deviation of no more than 0.2 cm is allowed.

High-quality plaster must be taken even more strictly. Its characteristic permissible deviations are 0.1 cm per vertical meter. At four meters, as in the previous category, two irregularities are allowed, but their permissible depth is reduced to 0.2 cm. On the horizontal plane, a difference of only 0.1 cm is allowed on each meter.

DIY tools and materials for plastering walls

Beacons are narrow strips of metal with a rigid central guide, equipped with a large number of holes on the side surfaces. Lighthouse slats will play the role of leveled and fixed longitudinal supports for running along them as a rule when leveling the applied solution. Lighthouses are divided into types of 0.6 cm and 1 cm; their length is 3 m.

The rule is a flat and strong lath with a sharp plane on one side. It is designed to pull off excess mortar from the surface, resting on a frame of beacons. To check verticality and horizontality, a level is inserted into some rules. Also, for plastering with your own hands you will need such tools and materials:

• drill with mixer for mixing the solution;
• hammer drill with drills for attaching beacons;
• dowels, black wood screws;
• rule with a level or a separate building level two or more meters long;
• metal scissors for cutting lighthouse slats;
• hammer, chisel, plumb line;
• large spatula, from 40 to 60 cm;
• ironed, grater;
• buckets for mixing solution and water;
• wide brush for priming the surface;
• tape measure and gloves with a rubberized surface;
• bags with dry mixture;
• deep penetration soil.

When all materials and tools are prepared, plastering of the walls begins.

Preparation, priming of walls and fastening of beacons with your own hands

To begin installing beacons, the walls are examined for deviations from the vertical and horizontal. All protrusions and depressions mark with pencil or chalk. Sometimes large protruding parts are easier to knock off with a chisel or ax so as not to put a lot of mortar around them. All this is objectively assessed and the right decision is made. For the correct concept of a preparatory inspection, there is a video in which all stages are shown in detail.

After this, they begin marking the surface for installing the lighthouse slats. The outermost beacons on both sides are installed first, retreating from the edge by 0.3 m. The distance from the first to the second beacon is determined by the length of the rule. If the rule is two meters, then the distance take about 1.6 m. In this case, you need to follow a straight line laid at the level of the floor and ceiling from the first to the last beacon on one wall. The top and bottom of all intermediate slats must be on it. To make the position of the straight line clear, the threads should be tightened.

When installing beacons with your own hands, you should achieve such alignment that all angles are 90º. Before installing the beacons, be sure to treat the wall with soil, and follow the instructions on the packaging to dilute the solution. Loose surfaces are primed twice, the first layer is applied with a weak solution, and the second in the proportion on the package. After complete drying, marking work continues.

The installation of all intermediate beacons is carried out only along the boundaries of the threads, stretched diagonally and horizontally in several places. The beacon slats should touch them from the inside, but not protrude beyond their boundaries and do not strain them.

At first, the beacons are not attached, but only applied to exposed screws, checking them with a level. They are fastened with a mixture for plaster, diluted specifically for this operation. The mixture is applied in an even line along the screws so that it protrudes beyond their plane.

The lighthouse is brought to the line of screws and pressed down until it touches the caps. It is convenient to do this with two people from below and from above. The process of installing beacons is perfectly shown in the video. After the initial setting of the solution, they proceed to installing the next beacon. The rules and levels involved in the work process must be cleared of adhering solution.

The process of applying plaster mortar

To prepare the solution, pour water into a bucket and only then add the dry mixture. If you do the opposite, the resulting solution will set during the kneading process and it will not be possible to thoroughly stir the mixture until smooth. To apply a thick layer, make a thick solution, which will stick to the spatula. It is not possible to apply a large layer with a liquid solution.

The solution is applied with a spatula into the spaces between the beacons. If you do this kind of work with your own hands several times and watch the corresponding video, you can get used to applying just enough plaster to properly cover all the voids. You need to apply the solution from the bottom up, gradually removing the excess solution with a rule, progressively lifting it in a zigzag motion. The solution remaining on the rule is carefully removed into a bucket with a spatula or placed on the wall above for further use.

It is not recommended to add mortar particles that have fallen to the floor to the total mass, since dried particles in the mixture will be left on the wall surface long and deep furrows, which will additionally have to be filled with plaster. In the resulting voids, where the solution was not laid down sufficiently, you need to add the mixture and re-use the rule.

After completely applying the plaster to the entire strip between adjacent beacon slats, you need to carry out control pulling through the beacons several times. As a rule, there are unfinished areas at the very bottom and top, which are additionally applied.

After plastering, check the surface using a rule at different angles. If there are lumps that do not fit into the overall picture, they can be scraped off with a spatula while the solution has just hardened. Cracks and deep scratches cover with liquid solution and smooth.

After setting and hardening, the mixture is removed metal beacons which may rust and appear as brown spots on finishing. After removing the slats, grooves will remain, which are filled with mortar and smoothed to obtain the correct surface.

There are times when it is necessary to apply a layer of plaster more than five centimeters, then it is recommended to apply the solution in two stages.

For this procedure, the mixture is diluted in small portions and a more liquid composition. Before grouting, treat the work area of ​​about a meter with water. The solution is applied to a grater and evenly applied to the surface. They continue to do this repeatedly, strongly pressing on the rule. If everything is done correctly, the result will be an even and smooth section of the wall, and there will be no liquid solution left on the grater.

This is how the following neighboring areas are processed; the work process can be viewed on video to make it more clear. The grouting process should take place without interruptions and you can only be distracted by preparing the solution.

If plastering and leveling of walls is carried out as a basis for finishing tiles, then the correct thing to do would be not to rub down the walls. The smallest irregularities on the surface, on the contrary, will help grip. adhesive solution with the surface.

Mechanical methods of applying plaster mortar

They are used for finishing walls in rooms of large area and length, both indoors and outdoors. For such a process, which can be seen on video, we use special plastering machine, equipped with a water supply and a container for receiving dry mixture. After mixing the solution, it is supplied to the wall through a special hose with nozzles.

When applied mechanically, the beacons are set in a standard way, and the solution is leveled using a rule. The mechanical method is characterized by a reduction in labor intensity by eliminating the operation of preparing a solution from manual labor. Due to this application, it is possible to treat a much larger area in the same period of time.

Wall alignment plaster mortar is an integral part of any room decoration in modern conditions; the amount of basic material spent depends on its correct implementation finishing material.