Door made of boards: options for simple and complex designs. Making doors of different designs with your own hands How to make a door from 40 boards
Any home requires protection from outside world with his looks, coldness, noise. A metal or wooden entrance door performs this task. Modern market offers various models, but many men can make it themselves without spending a lot of money.
Any room should be equipped with a high-quality entrance door. The photo shows an option wooden model.
Do-it-yourself wooden entrance door is the topic of our article. Is it possible to make a high-quality door structure at home? What does this require? Is it suitable for home protection?
Do-it-yourself wooden entrance door: different technologies
It can be installed on any building, even utility rooms. This could be a wooden gate to a bathhouse, a barn and, of course, to a house. Solid wood facades can be panel or solid (paneled). Each structure is made from solid or prefabricated wood.
Panel doors are the easiest to make yourself. Having in stock:
- carpenter's tools;
- several boards of the same size;
- bars;
- nails;
- loops;
- self-tapping screws
The product can be assembled in a couple of hours. Let's consider the design features of the panel input model.
Panel entrance door: different methods of making it yourself
The design is quite simple. At the base is a shield assembled from boards of equal width, length, and thickness. Blanks must be processed so as not to hurt your hands during production and use. If there are boards of different lengths, they must be sawn to the desired size. For the shield, you can use a solid sheet of plywood or chipboard if the block will be refined in the future.
Panel door can be assembled different ways. Dowels and struts are one of the options for fastening the canvas. For assembly you will need timber, which will be sawn into parts for strapping: dowels, strut.
- Dowels are horizontal elements to which the shield is attached. There should be two keys for the top and bottom of the shield.
- A strut is a connecting element installed diagonally against the dowels. If the wooden entrance door is made of boards, a brace will ensure that the proportions of the structure are preserved. The canvas will not move or warp.
- If you use only dowels to stiffen the door, they will have to be installed around the perimeter of the panel, which will increase the load on the hinges and frame.
Selecting suitable loops. Their range is quite large. Consider the opening method (right or left) and the weight of the door. The hinges must be secure.
Prepare the lock and handle for installation on the canvas after assembling the structure. The choice depends on its functionality. It will protect a house, a bathhouse, a barn, a garage.
We prepare the material according to pre-made measurements of the entrance opening.
Select boards of the same size, lay them out on the floor and connect them into a single piece with dowels and bracing. We lay out the parts on the floor and start assembling.
- The traditional way to assemble a panel door is to connect the elements with nails and a hammer.
- Modern technologies make it possible to speed up the process and provide better adhesion between the boards and the bars. Take a drill, a screwdriver and wood screws of the required size. Assemble the shield into a single door, checking all stages with a level and tape measure.
- In the old days, experienced carpenters assembled the product without nails, making a special cut in the boards for installing dowels in the recess. This technology requires experience in handling metalwork objects and a good eye.
Do-it-yourself entrance structure made from solid sheets
Panel types of facades also include sets assembled from solid sheets. Let's take plywood as an example.
- We file the sheets and timber according to the dimensions of the opening.
- We make the strapping from dowels around the perimeter.
- We secure the strut diagonally across the box.
- We attach the outer sheet of plywood to the frame.
- We lay insulation and an insulating layer inside the future door.
- We sew up the frame with a second sheet of plywood. The one-piece panel structure is ready.
The facing material can be any building sheet that can give an aesthetic appearance.
A panel door can be assembled without nails if you know how to handle milling tools and have a good eye. A wooden panel door requires treatment with agents against rot and moisture. After all, wood, due to its properties, is exposed to the influence of the environment, from which it must be protected in order to extend its service life. You can use clear varnish or special wood paint.
After finishing the assembly. You can safely install it in the opening. (see Installing a wooden door).
This door design is not reliable due to the weakness of the facade. To thoroughly protect your home from strangers, a more modern and durable wooden entrance door is required. You can also make it yourself, but with more effort and using a stronger array. Let's look at the panel door.
DIY paneled door
A paneled door is a more serious design for the entrance opening. Can be installed both in a private house and in an apartment.
Paneled doors are more reliable for the entrance opening. May have different appearance. It consists of timber around the entire perimeter, called a harness. It has a special groove on one inner side, a profile for insertion. The inner part of the canvas is made of solid wood, plywood, and thin chipboard. The insertion can be;
- integral/composite;
- smooth/convex;
- solid / with glass.
It is placed in the groove of the box or using a special decorative overlay, which is attached with glue (mainly used in structures with glass).
When making a paneled door, use high-quality wood. When making a paneled façade with your own hands, use wood with a denser texture so that the door does not sag over time, swell or crack due to temperature changes. Pine is often used as a more available material, but it is advisable to take oak, cedar, larch.
Having decided what it will be, we purchase everything necessary:
- timber for horizontal and vertical strapping posts;
- insert in accordance with the desired facade pattern;
- accessories;
- fasteners;
- finishing materials and products.
Let's start assembling it ourselves.
The wooden panel door is assembled. It's up to the wood to be treated with special compounds, varnish or paint.
Work with glass inserts and inlaid panels
When choosing a wooden entrance door with glass or a complex panel pattern, the assembly process can become a little more complicated.
Glass needs additional frame, which will ensure the stability of the glass in the frame. You can secure it the old-fashioned way using glazing beads, small nails or glue. But it is better to use internal sheathing that has a different pattern of openings.
The glass insert requires additional lathing to prevent it from falling out of the profile during a strong impact. The sheathing is made of thin bars, secured to the main frame. Next, glass is installed. The edge can be additionally treated with silicone to make it more reliable. The top of the glass is covered with a symmetrical cover, which is attached to liquid nails or silicone.
A special approach is also required for paneled doors, the insert of which is assembled from separate planks into a special lock. The pattern can be varied. It is better to buy such blanks in finished form than adjusting each groove and profile yourself. Typically, during assembly, it is necessary to add a central vertical beam into which the inset elements will be inserted.
Otherwise, the production of a paneled wooden entrance door with your own hands is carried out according to the algorithm described above.
Any wooden door can be assembled with your own hands if you have a great desire and ability to use tools. It is especially worth noting that we manufacture an entrance door that should reliably protect against cold and noise. Designing door block, provide the thickness of the timber so that two panels (external and internal), an insulating layer, and insulation can fit into the groove. This way you will provide your home with a quality door.
If the wooden entrance door is too thin, the door leaf must be insulated to hide the cracks from drafts. If there is a desire to preserve the appearance of the door from the outside, we perform insulation from the inside in any convenient way:
- cover with leather;
- lay a layer of thermal insulation inside the frame and cover the top with a sheet of plywood or thin chipboard (use the tips from our article “How to insulate an entrance door”).
Having considered several production methods, a do-it-yourself wooden entrance door becomes available to any man who wants to create coziness in the house on his own. Additionally, we recommend watching the video instructions on how to make a wooden entrance door at home.
Despite the fact that today doors are made from a wide variety of modern materials, wood products still remain the most in demand. Wooden doors are installed between rooms, at the entrance to a house or outbuildings, and they are also mounted on everything functional rooms baths The popularity of wooden doors remains unchanged due to the warmth of the material and its environmental friendliness, as well as the amazing natural beauty of textured patterns.
To figure out how to make a door from boards with your own hands, you need to decide where it will be installed. The fact is that all wooden doors, from the simplest to the most elite examples, are made from boards, but the material can have different quality and processing. There are also significant differences in wood species.
In addition, door leaves are divided into types according to their design, and in order to decide which one is more suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are.
Types of doors by design
Wooden doors can have several types of structures - paneled and solid, panel (hollow and solid) and frame.
Massive doors
Massive doors are made from thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards, joined together in one plane and thus forming a flat surface. The resulting shield should have horizontal or inclined jumpers, which will make the structure more rigid.
Wood is used for solid doors different breeds and quality, depending on where they will be installed. For example, if a massive entrance door is being made, then you need to choose moderately dried, dense, high-quality wood from expensive species such as oak, cedar, larch and others. They have a beautiful noble textured pattern and dense structure. With appropriate treatment, such a door will last a long time without deformation or damage by insects dangerous to wood.
A massive door can have a different design - either a simple one, which is suitable for installation, say, in a steam room in a bathhouse, or a complex one, with a relief design, suitable for entering a house or apartment.
For bath doors, less expensive wood can be used, such as pine, spruce, linden and others. The only thing that needs to be taken into account when making a door structure for wet rooms is its careful treatment with water-repellent agents.
Massive doors may have their own design features, but one thing remains unchanged - the door leaf, which should always be made of natural wood.
Paneled door
Paneled wooden doors are also made from boards or timber, but the glued version is more often used, which is made from individual wooden parts - lamellas. They are glued together to create thick boards or beams.
Glued laminated timber serves as a rigid frame for the canvas - vertical and transverse elements, as well as mullions, are made from it. Previously, individual elements were fastened together with the help of spikes; today, dowels are more often used for this. When making a door, you need to take into account the fact that the more crossbars are provided in the door leaf, the stronger it will be. The timber is used to form unique frames into which panel panels are installed, made from thinner boards, MDF covered with natural veneer, or plastic imitating the textured pattern of wood. The panel usually has a thickness of ⅓ of the thickness of laminated veneer lumber. The panels are fixed in the frames using veneered or natural glazing bead, which adds aesthetics to the appearance of the paneled door, smoothing out the sharp edges of the frame.
Paneled doors can have a very diverse design and will decorate any apartment. As can be seen from the design diagram, the main part of the door leaf is small in thickness, so they are most often installed in openings between rooms.
The paneled structure is made of durable materials that are not inferior in their durability to solid wood. Sometimes this type of door has an even higher cost than solid wood. Pricing is based on what type of wood the boards and beams are made of, and what kind of veneer the material for the paneled door is covered with.
It should be noted that paneled canvases are often made entirely of natural wood, only made according to a similar design scheme.
Panel doors
Panel doors can be called a budget option, since their price is much lower than the two types mentioned above. They are made from cheaper material - low-quality wood and fiberboard, lined with veneer or laminate. High-quality panel structures have a completely aesthetic appearance, and if their surface is also lined with natural veneer, then sometimes they are very similar to massive doors.
Panel doors come in solid, hollow and small-hollow types. They differ in that in some the internal space is completely filled with unedged timber, fastened together, the second consists only of strapping and outer cladding, and the third has partial filling.
A typical hollow panel door consists of two transverse ones - upper and lower, as well as side beams, which are sheathed with fiberboard, clapboard or other materials. Sometimes horizontal and vertical cross members are installed inside the structure, as they give the structure additional rigidity. Such a door can already be called a frame door.
Small-hollow door leaf structures have different fillings of the internal space, and a variety of materials can be used for filling - this can be plywood, MDF boards, cardboard, shavings or foam plastic.
Solid panel doors are those whose filling is a kind of shield made of unedged or edged timber tightly fastened together.
Schemes of panel structures of different occupancy are presented in the figures:
Panel door diagrams - 1 A– solid structure;
B– small void filling;
Panel door schemes - 2 IN– filling voids with veneer;
G And D– small-hollow filling with pieces of plywood or MDF;
Panel door schemes - 3 E– filling with chips;
AND– filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs;
Z- a panel partially filled with solid bars with space provided for installing glass or plywood sheets.
Panel door schemes - 4 AND– filling part of the canvas with veneer;
TO And L– filling with plywood or wood-fiber elements;
M– filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs.
The panel door frame is lined with various materials on both sides - plastic (laminate, melamine), fiberboards, plywood or veneer.
When facing panels quality plywood with a beautiful textured pattern, they can be additionally decorated with profiled overlays.
- To obtain a high-quality panel door, the structure is faced with glued linden or alder plywood, which is mounted in one or two layers, each of which is 2÷3 mm. The material, made from alder and linden, does not cause deformation, which creates a reliable basis for
Finishing plywood is fixed on top of the glued layer. valuable species tree. The direction of the fibers of the decorative plywood layer should be perpendicular to the glued material.
Often, instead of plywood, natural veneer made from expensive wood species is attached to the glued layer. Its layers, and there can be 3 or 5 of them, are also laid perpendicular to each other.
- Sometimes a solid board made of glued timber is immediately decorated with veneer; it is applied in 5–10 layers to create a total facing layer of 2–4 mm.
The end sides of the shield must be neat and solid, therefore, if the door is made without a frame, then smooth, well-processed bars are used for them, which in color and texture will match the finish of the remaining planes.
The end bars are fastened to the shield with dowels and glue.
This type of door, depending on the finish, can be a bathroom or utility rooms, as well as in quality. However, it should be noted that panel doors have absolutely no protection, so they are not suitable for the role of entrance doors. Most often they are used for this only as a temporary option.
Now that the designs of all types of doors are known, you can decide which one is suitable for a particular case, and then move on to preparatory work and manufacturing.
Tools for making doors
In order to make any model of a wooden door, you will definitely need high-quality tools and a stable, large table-workbench on which all the elements will be assembled into a single piece.
Tools you need to prepare:
- Manual milling machine - this device will help make the door leaf smooth, cut out any holes and grooves, straighten the right angles of the structure, process the glazing bead and much more. If your goal is to make a professional-looking door, then you can’t do without this tool.
- Planer for leveling the end sides of the door.
- Clamps for tightening glued fabric.
- Hacksaw.
- Luchkovaya and hand saw.
- Chisels of different sizes.
- Rubber and regular hammer.
- Building level.
- Ruler, tape measure, folding meter and pencil.
- Sandpaper and Sander.
- Screwdriver.
Necessary materials
To make doors you will need the following materials:
- Wood - its grade, quantity and dimensions are selected for each door separately. The choice of this material will be discussed below.
- Wood glue.
- Self-tapping screws of different lengths.
In addition, for each type of door you will need to prepare specific materials, which will be mentioned in the sections on the manufacture of certain door panels.
Selection of lumber
It is imperative to know how to choose the right blanks for the door leaf, otherwise the finished door may become deformed, and it will no longer be possible to correct this defect.
The main criteria when choosing wood are:
- The type of wood is chosen according to desire and financial capabilities.
- For doors, so-called industrial wood is purchased, since it has a small number of knots, and if there are any, then small size and light color.
- In order for the wood to “behave” well during processing and during the period of operation of the doors, upon purchase the material must have a residual moisture content of 12÷15%. It is recommended to choose material dried in a special drying chamber. Wood treated in this way will not deform or dry out, since the chamber creates an optimal temperature effect on its fibers.
- When buying boards, you must check them for evenness. To do this, they should be laid on a flat surface and tried to be connected to each other using tongue-and-groove locks. The boards should not be bent or bent.
- The thickness of the door boards can be 25÷50 mm, depending on where it will be installed - at the entrance or between rooms.
- Before starting work, it is recommended to go over all surfaces of the boards with a sanding machine with fine-grained sandpaper. If this device is not available, then you can make a grinding device yourself from ordinary wooden block by attaching sandpaper to it.
Making a solid door
Whatever model of solid board door is chosen, the basis for it will be a board panel that must be assembled correctly. Otherwise, the wood may “sink”, and such a structure will be impossible to operate.
A solid board door is made for installation between rooms or for installation at the entrance to an apartment, house and outbuildings. Naturally, the appearance of the product will differ in different situations.
- For a bathhouse, the simplest design is usually used, in which a shield assembled from boards is fastened with transverse and diagonal elements.
In this drawing you can see different options for fastenings and strappings:
General view of the door;
I – door with a Z-shaped frame;
II – X-shaped harness;
III – double Z-shaped harness;
IV – double X-shaped harness;
V – triple harness.
To enter a house or for installation in residential premises, doors should have a more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, the assembled shield is processed in a special way to achieve its ideal evenness and smoothness. Next, markings of the selected relief pattern are applied to the canvas, and then the relief is cut out using a router.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | For the manufacture of the shield, tongue-and-groove boards are taken, either with a tongue-and-groove fastening or without tongue-and-groove boards. The thickness of the boards must be at least 25 mm, but if a door is being made for the entrance to an apartment or house, then a board even 40–60 mm thick is taken. Doors for outbuildings or bathhouses are most often made from non-grooved boards using one of the strappings shown above. For doors installed in residential premises, a high-quality thick tongue-and-groove board is used. |
 | Next, the prepared boards are marked and sawn into the required sections. |
 | The next step is to assemble the boards into a shield. In this case, you need to lay them in such a way that the pattern of the annual rings is directed in one direction. If tongue-and-groove boards are used for manufacturing, then the tenon is carefully cut off from the outermost element of the shield, and the end is carefully processed. When assembling the board, tongue and groove boards are assembled using and lock connection“mortise-tenon”, and wood glue. Non-grooved - simply glued together. |
 | The work should be carried out on a large work table - a workbench, where it is possible to place the entire door leaf and lay it perfectly flat. |
 | The assembled and glued panel of the canvas is pressed in several places with clamps and left to dry. |
 | The finished, dried board is processed with a milling cutter until it is perfectly smooth. In this case, the joints between the boards become almost invisible. |
 | It should be noted that, if necessary, a massive door is assembled from two or even three layers of boards, each of which is glued perpendicular to the previous one, and the entire resulting structure is clamped with clamps. The result is a fairly heavy, powerful shield with a thickness suitable for installation at the entrance to a house or apartment. Especially often, a door is made in this way, on which some kind of relief design will later be milled or cut out. |
 | Next, you need to fasten the shield with one of the types of strapping. The simplest of them are two or three crossbars installed in the upper, middle and lower parts of the canvas. In this case, parts are prepared whose length will be equal to the width of the manufactured shield. Their possible shapes and sizes are shown in the figure on the left. This configuration must be maintained so that the crossbar can easily fit into the groove that will be cut for it in the door leaf. |
 | Then markings are made on the door leaf where the grooves for the crossbars will be cut. Ready-made transverse elements are applied to them and outlined with a simple pencil. In addition, you immediately need to determine and mark the depth to which the groove will be selected in the shield boards. The recess can be ⅓ or ½ the thickness of the board. |
 | Using the marks made on the shield, transverse grooves of the desired shape and size are cut with a milling cutter. The cutter is able to make their surfaces perfectly smooth, so the crossbars will fit into their “sockets” quite easily, but very tightly. Additionally, the groove is coated with wood glue. You can cut the groove manually - first, cuts are made at the desired angle, and then the wood is selected with a chisel. |
 | When the grooves are prepared, the crossbars are inserted into them from one side and then gradually pushed inward using rubber hammer or a mallet. |
 | When assembled, the canvas, reinforced with crossbars, will look something like this. |
 | If you plan to decorate the finished shield with any relief design, then its outline should first be drawn on the surface with a pencil using a template. After that on manual frezer cutters of the desired configuration are alternately installed, and the selected pattern is cut out without haste. |
 | The finished canvas should be treated with antiseptic agents. If the door is planned to be installed at the entrance of the house and, therefore, will be influenced external factors, then in addition to antiseptics, you need to use water-repellent compounds. When making a door to enter an apartment, it is recommended to coat the wood with fire retardants. |
 | If you want to change the color of the canvas, make the door more “noble” or artificially “age” it, then you can use staining technology for this. Wood is covered with stain in one or several layers, achieving the desired darkening of the texture. After the composition has dried, the doors can be coated with several layers of varnish. |
 | On the finished canvas and door frame Markings are made to install the selected model of hinged hinges. Then the loops are mounted in the marked places. |
 | The next step is to mark the location of the lock on the door leaf and on the door frame, after which it is cut into the structure and the handle is installed. The last step is to hang the door in the doorway and make a fine finishing adjustment if necessary. |
Manufacturing of a panel door
Making a panel door yourself is not difficult. The main thing is to have all the materials at hand, a good-quality tool, maintain all dimensions, maintain even edges and straight corners. The amount of work will depend on the design of the selected door option. For example, for a solid panel door, just like for one made from a solid board, it is necessary to make a shield, only it can consist of low-quality wood and processing. If you plan to make a finely filled canvas, then the same bars are used, but they are fastened not into a continuous surface, but with gaps.
Based on the description of the design, it can be made in three ways:
- The first is that a frame frame (tiring) of the required size is first assembled, and then its internal space is filled completely or partially, that is, a solid or finely filled shield is created inside the frame.
- The shield can be made separately, and then it needs to be fixed into the frame, and then sheathed with finishing material.
- The third option is performed in the reverse order, that is, first the shield is made, and then it is sheathed with a frame and cladding.
Each method has its pros and cons, and the master chooses which one to choose independently. Below, as an example, we will consider the first option for making a door.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | So, first, a frame (frame) of the structure is made, which will determine the size of the canvas. For this, it is necessary to prepare a beam with a cross-section of approximately 30×120 mm, which is cut to the size of the future canvas (length and width). |
 | Having prepared the timber, you need to select the connection that will be used at the corners. There are several types of connections, but the simplest is the one called “half-tree”. The grooves are first marked on the edges of the prepared timber, which must be done very accurately, and then easily selected using a conventional hand hacksaw and chisels. The depth of the groove should be equal to half the thickness of the timber. The grooves are coated with glue and connected at the corners, and they need to be checked using a construction angle, since the beams must be perfectly perpendicular. When connecting the timber, the frame should lie on a hard, flat surface, and after connecting the corners, it is left to dry on the same table without moving it. |
 | After the glue has dried on the joints, they must be fastened with dowels, for which through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm are drilled. Then dowels treated with glue are carefully driven into them. |
 | One side of the frame must be immediately lined with one of the selected materials after fastening and drying the frame - it can be plywood, as described above, but more often, for reasons of economy, fiberboard is chosen. Carved by the right size a sheet of material is laid on a flat table, then the frame is laid on it and its location is marked on the facing material. After this, the frame is removed, and wood glue is thickly applied to the marked strips. The frame is then returned to its place and pressed firmly against the facing material. In this position under pressure, the entire structure should dry well. It should be noted that very often, for the rigidity of the frame structure, one or two cross members are mounted between its side bars |
 | Next, the internal space of the frame is filled with one of the selected filler materials - this can be timber, pieces of MDF or other woodworking waste mentioned above, or low-quality wood. This is how, in principle, all panel structures are made, and they differ only in the type of filling. All filling elements are glued together and also glued to the bottom sheet of facing material and the frame bars. Before covering the entire structure with cladding, you need to let the glue dry thoroughly. |
| This diagram shows a frame-panel structure, and it clearly shows the inserts, which are usually installed in hollow and small-hollow versions. These elements are designed for rigid insertion of a lock or door handle. |
|
 | While the glue dries, you need to prepare the material for lining the outside. To do this, the perimeter of the frame is measured and one or two sheets of finishing material are cut according to these dimensions. If you plan to glue two sheets, then first glue a regular fiberboard, and on top of it - a laminated sheet or veneered plywood. It is advisable to send the door leaf under a press, which you can build yourself, for example, by covering the leaf with plastic film and then laying gypsum boards on top of it. |
 | If desired, instead of a laminated sheet for cladding, you can use slats made of natural wood, but they will have to be screwed to the frame, drilling holes “under the countersunk” to recess the heads of the screws. Subsequently, these holes are filled with a mixture of sawdust and wood glue. When it dries, the surface should be treated with sandpaper. |
 | Then, all corner parts and ends of the door leaf must be processed using a router - only then will the door look high-quality and neat. A lock or latch handle is cut into the finished door leaf, and the hinges are also secured. Finally, the door is hung in the door frame. |
It should be noted that frame doors are made in the same way - their internal space is additionally reinforced with a frame made of timber or boards. But, before making a frame door, it is necessary to make accurate calculations and draw up a drawing.
Making a paneled door
Paneled doors have the most complex design, and its manufacture cannot be done without special carpentry tools and stable skills in working with them, since the elements require special processing.
Paneled doors consist of several parts, which can be made of solid boards or laminated veneer lumber and plywood. Naturally, they differ significantly in price. You can find a lot on sale different models, but for self-made in the absence of significant experience in carpentry, it is best to choose the simplest option.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first thing you need to do when you decide to make a paneled door is to draw up a drawing future design and put on it the dimensions of each of the parts. This drawing shows a door with four panels: A) general form doors; b) tenon joints of the upper, middle and lower crossbars: 1- racks; 2- upper cross member; 3-lock cross member; 4- lower cross member; 5- upper middle; 6 - lower middle; 7- upper panel; 8 - lower panel; 9 - key; 10 - groove. |
 | To make a frame you will need timber - it can be made from solid boards or laminated veneer lumber. It will be somewhat more difficult to work with the latter, since due to the presence of glue in its structure, it has greater rigidity. The timber will be needed for the vertical elements, cross members and centerpiece. The beam must be processed with a router, making grooves on one of its sides. And sometimes they immediately make shaped cuts that will replace the glazing bead. If you plan to use a glazing bead, then the surfaces around the groove should be left smooth. |
 | Then, you need to work on the crossbars, cutting out connecting tenons on both sides and finishing all the edges with a router. At the ends of the crossbars, grooves are made for installing panels and mullions in them. The end side of the upper and lower crossbars, which will extend to the end of the door, remains smooth and solid. |
 | According to the size of the tenons on the crossbars, slots are made in the vertical beams for assembling the door. Before making them, the bars are carefully marked. |
 | To make panels that will be installed in the grooves of crossbars and beams, you will need plywood, board or chipboard. It should be noted that all panel parts or several of them can be replaced with glass. If glass is chosen, then you will also need glazing beads, which will additionally fix the glass panels in the grooves and become a relief frame for them. |
 | The panels can have an absolutely flat plane, and after installation in the cut-out grooves, they are framed with a figuratively cut glazing bead. In another case, the panels are processed around the perimeter with a milling cutter, with which you can achieve the desired relief configuration. If the second option is chosen, then for their manufacture, plywood or boards with a thickness greater than for flat panels are purchased - it can be 20÷25 mm. The edges of the panel are milled so that their thickness is 1–2 mm less than the grooves cut into the transverse and vertical beams, since it should fit into them freely. |
 | All prepared door elements are treated with antiseptic compounds and dried. |
 | Before assembly, you need to check all the elements again and, if necessary, make additional markings. All parts are assembled into a single piece on a table, in a horizontal position. All tenons, before being installed in the grooves, are coated with wood glue. |
 | The canvas is assembled in the following sequence: - All parts - crossbars and panels - are glued into the grooves of one of the vertical beams, according to the markings. - Next, the mullions are installed, the spikes of which are also lubricated with glue. - Then, the remaining panels are mounted into the crossbars and mullions. - After this, the remaining vertical beam is glued. |
 | - The last to be glued are the framing beads. If necessary, a rubber hammer or wooden mallet is used to install tenons into the grooves. After this, the canvas is carefully tapped on all sides, and its corners are checked with a construction angle. Then, it is compressed with clamps until it dries. |
 | On the finished door leaf, markings are made for installing fittings - hinges and a lock or just a door handle. After this, the parts are installed on the canvas for fitting, but are not secured - they are mounted only after the final finishing of the surface. |
 | The final finishing of the door can be done with acrylic varnishes or water-based paints. If necessary, the surface of the door can be made darker, thereby emphasizing the beauty of the textured wood pattern. For this, a stain is used, which can be applied in one or several layers. The top of stained wood can be coated with colorless varnish or hot wax. When the coating dries, the fittings are installed. |
The position of the loops is approximately as shown in this diagram. In addition, the figure shows the dimensions of the gaps that should be observed when installing the leaf in the door frame.
These parameters are, in principle, identical for installing any types of leaves in a door jamb.
In conclusion, it must be said that making a wooden door yourself, without experience in carpentry, is quite difficult. Moreover, it is almost impossible to do without special tools, which not everyone has in their home “arsenal”. Therefore, if you want the door to look perfect, then it is best to order it from a professional craftsman or buy a ready-made version.
Video: master class on making a paneled door from solid wood
But if you still decide to experiment or have a persistent desire to learn how to make carpentry products that are always in demand, then you must definitely purchase a high-quality tool, both manual and electric (including, of course, a router with a set of cutters) and learn how to work with it. Only after everything starts to work out successfully can you try to make individual parts. In any case, if you want to do this kind of work, then you need to try your hand.
Find out how to do it yourself from a new article on our portal.
A door is a device that allows people to pass through walls. The design includes two main elements. The first is a canvas that, when closed, imitates an “insurmountable” wall, the second is a mechanism with which the doorway opens. By connecting the canvas with the hanging mechanism and adjusting their coordinated work, everyone can confidently say that they have made a door.
Wooden door manufacturing technology
Making a wooden door is very simple. It all depends on the materials that are available. If this is a door for a hut, then with the help of a rope, a knife and sticks of equal thickness, in a matter of minutes you can tie them into a smooth, flat sheet, and use the same twine instead of hinges. But if the task is to make a door to a house or apartment, then you will need special woodworking tools - a saw, a plane, a sander.
You can make doors of any complexity with your own hands, the main thing is to have the desire and carpentry skills
More recently - about 100 years ago, metal fasteners were very expensive. Therefore, craftsmen made doors without the use of nails and screws. The connections were made of wood, consisting of tenons, grooves and dowels ( wooden nails). It took skill and fine craftsmanship to precisely fit the parts by hand. Good master I made the door over several days. With the advent of mechanization and automation of production, the production of doors was put on an assembly line, and the “human factor” was reduced to the adjustment and adjustment of machines with numerical control.
Video: door production at the factory
In today's world, almost every home has a set of tools and devices that allow you to make a simple door for your own use. The materials are available and often the only task is to correct assembly and fit.
The most common are two types of doors, fundamentally different in design:
- Frame (panel) construction. The frame of the future door is made from solid wood, consisting of two posts and crossbars. Inner space sewn up with panel material such as plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. The resulting cavity is filled with “honeycombs” or soundproofing material. As a rule, this is a rectangular canvas. There are no restrictions on dimensions, but the established shape doorway is 2 meters high and 0.5–0.8 m wide. In rare cases, doors are made bigger size. For example, 2.2 m high and 90 cm wide. But in this case it is necessary to use more powerful hinges, since the mass of the sash increases.
A panel door assembled from wooden slats fits well into the country style
- Paneled construction. In this case, the door consists entirely of natural wood. At the same time, its mass and strength increase. It is clear that a solid piece of wood measuring 2x0.6 m will be very expensive. Therefore, the canvas is made from components, connecting them into a single plane. By definition, paneling is a thin board or plywood inserted inside wooden frame. Moreover, it can be replaceable.
A paneled door made of solid wood can be decorated with artistic carvings
With current door production technologies, the clear division of the door leaf structure into frame and panel has been somewhat erased. The doors can be combined, combining elements of both panels and panels.
Video: Are doors today divided into panel and panel doors (expert opinion)
Industrial production of wooden doors includes the following stages:
- Preparation of wood material.
- Additional processing and preparation of the array (drying, gluing and impregnation).
- Manufacturing of canvas and frame parts.
- Assembly of the structure.
- Finishing work (painting, varnishing, laminating, etc.).
When making doors yourself, all stages are reproduced at home.
Equipment and tools
For the manufacture of various types doors require different tools. A simple panel sheet is constructed using a hacksaw (with a small furniture tooth), a hammer or a screwdriver if the fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws. A more “advanced” door is assembled using electrical devices:
- Manual electric router. It is used to mill panel parts and give them a profile appearance. Groove joints require the removal of wood, which is also done using a milling machine.
The router kit includes a set of cutters with different lengths and cutting edge configurations
- Screwdriver or drill. Needed for sash assembly. Please note that when using a drill, you need a tool with adjustable speed. Too fast a starting rotation will not allow you to control the process of immersion of the fastener.
A screwdriver with adjustable speed and rotation power will allow for correct installation of fasteners
- A circular saw. Manual or stationary. With its help, wooden boards are cut into pieces. Precision in cuts is important, so the saw must be well adjusted. An unbalanced blade will cut unevenly and cause chips.
The ruler built into the circular saw allows you to cut boards to a given size
- Grinder with a set of grinding attachments. Power and high revs corner grinding machine in this situation they are only welcome.
Polishing of a wooden surface is carried out with special attachments
- Measuring tools - tape measure or carpenter's meter, marker, straight ruler, rectangle.
- Set of carpentry hand tools: hammer, mallet, chisels, clamps, etc.
Varied hand tools significantly speed up the door assembly process
It is advisable to assemble on a workbench or desktop - it is much more convenient and faster.
As for the material for doors, the design and shape of the door leaf is of great importance. Inserts can be made of MDF, chipboard, OSB or just plywood. The choice of material depends on the purpose of the doors. For entrances they use materials with high strength, for interiors - lighter ones, decorative types wood.
The door frame is made from solid wooden blocks. You will need two bars a little more than 2 m long for the racks and two meter bars of the same section for the crossbars. On one side, a quarter is selected equal to the thickness of the door leaf. However, a prefabricated frame design is also possible, in which the supporting surface is created by building up thin slats.
The blank for the door frame is made taking into account the thickness of the door leaf
The most affordable material is pine and spruce boards. Spruce lumber is stronger, but pine has a more beautiful texture and fewer knots. Soft-leaved wood species - birch, linden, poplar - are practically not used for making doors. Oak solid wood is very popular. Its structure is strong and durable. However, harvesting oak is an expensive process, which naturally affects the final price.
For simple doors with a laminated chipboard insert you will need:
- edged boards 40–60 mm thick and 100–150 mm wide, with a total length of 6 m;
High quality boards are calibrated in all four planes
- a sheet of laminated chipboard with a total area of no more than 2 m2;
Chipboard cutting to specified dimensions can be ordered from the supplier upon purchase.
- PVA glue;
Glue is used to strengthen the fastenings of wooden door elements
- varnish or paint;
- confirmations from 25 to 35 mm long.
Color-matched plastic plugs make connections virtually invisible
Confirmats are special screws with a smoothed end and an “invisible” head. They are used in assembling furniture and other joinery products. A distinctive feature is the wide thread pitch, which allows you to securely fasten both fibrous wood and pressed sheets of particle boards.
Confirmation splines come in different configurations - from conventional Phillips to hexagonal and star. Accordingly, a suitable attachment is selected for the screwdriver.
To install the confirmat, a special drill with an extension in the upper part is used
Calculations and drawings
A well-drawn drawing will help you avoid mistakes and waste of materials when making doors. A sketch and detailing are made on a sheet of paper, indicating the exact dimensions of each component of the canvas.
The drawing shows all the design features of the doors According to construction GOSTs
- The following parameters are accepted when installing doors:
The distance from the corner to the hinges at the bottom and top is the same and is 15–25 cm.
- During installation, it is necessary to observe technological clearances
The door handle is installed at a height of 80–90 cm from the floor. The position of the locking device on the sash is determined by the lock device. The strike plate is located on the frame and recessed into the wood so that its plane coincides with the plane of the door frame.
- The handle and lock are installed on the door last.
- The viewing window is placed at eye level - 150–160 cm from the bottom edge of the door leaf.
If a ventilation grill is provided in the door leaf, it is attached in the middle of the door leaf, at a distance of 15–20 cm from the floor.
The ventilation grille can be equipped with a built-in electric fan
You should also pay attention to the seal, which is mounted around the perimeter of the frame. The shapes of rubber seals are different and depending on this, the geometry of the door frame profile is formed. Some types of seals require additional recessing for installation.
Before installing the self-adhesive door seal, you must remove the protective film And finally, the door threshold. Most often, interior doors do not have a threshold. This saves materials and reduces assembly time. But entrance doors without a threshold are too vulnerable and allow cold air to pass through.
Therefore, it is advisable to strengthen this part of the door frame with a metal trim.
Metal trim increases the strength of the door threshold
Video: making a simple panel door
Let's consider the technology for making a wooden door yourself:
- Preparatory stage. Prepared boards using sanding attachment on a grinder they are carefully processed to a polished surface. To do this, it is necessary to use three types of emery: coarse-grained (No. 40), then medium-grained (No. 80) and fine-grained (No. 120). If the boards are planed, then start immediately with a medium-grain sheet. The ultimate goal of polishing is absolutely smooth surface with well-developed wood grain lines. It should be taken into account that various breeds have different hardness. Processing pine, birch and linden will not take much time and effort. You will have to work hard on oak or ash.
Vibratory grinders are used for polishing wood.
- Next, you need to mill the parts in accordance with the intended door design. Using a router and a set of shaped cutters, the ends are given the desired configuration. Each insert is adjusted to its groove individually. In addition, you need to make a deep groove along the inner perimeter of the frame. A sheet of chipboard is subsequently inserted into it. The size of the groove is selected in accordance with the thickness of the chipboard - a tolerance of 1 mm is made for lapping. The standard thickness of particle board used for doors is 16 mm. This means that the width of the groove will be 17 mm. The depth is selected from 15 to 20 mm, this is enough to securely secure the insert into the frame of the canvas. It must be remembered that in the interests of long-term operation, the depth of the groove is made 1.5–2 mm larger than the size of the tenon. Another option is possible, when laminated chipboard is attached to the canvas frame with glazing beads. Then, instead of a groove on the side posts, it is enough to choose a quarter.
It is advisable to carry out the sampling of the quarter on a firmly fixed canvas
- Cutting the ends of the boards at an angle of 45°. If it is possible to use an end circular saw, the process is significantly speeded up. But if it is not there, the marking is carried out with a simple protractor, and the cut will be made by an ordinary circular or hand saw. It is important to accurately maintain the size, which must be measured along the long side of the door frame.
The miter saw allows you to make high-quality cuts at any angle
- Cut the panels, in our case a sheet of chipboard. The size of the height and width is calculated based on the depth of the groove. The width of the two prepared boards (top and bottom) is subtracted from the total height of the doors and the depth of the groove is added. For example, with a door height of 2 m, a width of the top and bottom crossbars of 15 cm and a groove depth of 20 mm, we have: 2000-(150x2)+(20x2) = 174 cm. The same calculations are carried out for the width.
- Primary installation. It is carried out for the final adjustment of all parts into a single structure. Everything is assembled on a workbench (or on the floor), cracks and gaps are checked, and the general geometry of the canvas is checked. If “inconsistencies” are detected, the canvas is disassembled and adjusted. If there are no deviations, the door can be secured with confirmations. To do this, first drill holes to match the diameter of the head, then screw in a screw with the head immersed “flush”.
- Decorating the door leaf. Of the types available at home, the most acceptable are painting and varnishing. Gluing decorative film or veneer onto rounded surfaces will not work well. A spray bottle can be a good help when applying a layer of paint. With its help, you can achieve uniform coating on the surface of the door. However, this also requires certain experience and skills. Many experts believe that decoration is the most important and difficult stage in the manufacture of doors.
Doors are varnished in a well-ventilated and lit room.
- Installation of accessories. It is done last, when the product is already mounted in the doorway. Technological holes for inserting the lock and handle are prepared in advance. The recesses for the canopies are cut out with a chisel based on the size of the hinges. The only exception is rubber compressor. If its configuration involves deepening into the array, the groove is cut out at the preparation stage.
The shape of the holes is determined by the configuration of the door hardware
Video: making a wooden entrance door with your own hands
DIY barn door
For simple household needs, it is not necessary to assemble a paneled door with complex structural elements. A panel-type door, consisting of a prefabricated panel and a wooden door frame, is quite suitable for a utility room or barn.
Doors made from lining or tongue-and-groove boards are very convenient in this regard. These lumber are sold with already planed grooves and a smooth surface.
The manufacturing process is very simple:
The front door is the calling card of any home. Therefore, it should not only look beautiful, but also provide good thermal insulation and be harmonious with the design and architecture of the building. The safety of property, as well as the protection of housing from the penetration of cold air, precipitation and noise from the street, directly depends on the strength and reliability of this structure.
Today, the choice of doors is provided in a wide range, and each model differs in its configuration and external shape. The entrance structure can be purchased ready-made, made to order, or made independently. This may surprise many, but there is nothing complicated about it, you just need to take the correct measurements, select the right option models and be patient.
It is worth noting that the homemade design will differ original design and will highlight the entrance to the room in a special way.
Features and models
Entrance doors are installed both in the apartment and in a private house. Regardless of the location of this structure, its direct purpose is considered reliable protection housing from cold, noise and burglary. Therefore, when choosing this or that front door model, you need to take into account many nuances. IN Lately Homemade structures made of metal and wood are extremely popular, while metal doors are distinguished by their functionality and design features, they are resistant to explosions, burglaries, fireproof and bulletproof.
As for wooden options, then they are characterized by an original aesthetic appearance; doors with sliding systems also deserve special attention.
Today there are many types of entrance doors. According to their purpose they are:
- Fireproof and bulletproof. Such products are made of high-strength metal. In addition, these types of doors are additionally treated with reinforcing compounds.
- Shockproof. They are the most reliable option for protecting your home.
- Soundproofing. Prevents noise and sounds from entering the house.
- Sealed. Often installed in outbuildings.
Entrance doors can open in different ways. There are swing and sliding models of structures. In addition, doors are classified by the number of leaves and are:
- Single leaf. Made from solid fabric.
- One and a half. They are a structure consisting of two parts, where only one opens.
- Bivalve. Large doors with two opening leaves.
All entrance doors differ in appearance and shape, so a distinction is made between rectangular and arched products. Designs with a blind transom are also popular.
Recently, manufacturers have been trying to make the entrance to their homes unusual, so they often decorate the doors with glass.
Materials
Entrance doors are made from different raw materials, and most often metal and natural wood. It is worth noting that the functional properties of the structure will depend on the selected material, since good and quality door should not allow cold air to pass through and completely insulates the house from extraneous sounds.
Despite the fact that metal products are very popular, wood still does not lose its advantages and is often used in the production of doors. Such models are found in modern apartments, and in country houses. As a rule, such wooden structures are made from solid oak, as well as birch and pine. Wood doors provide excellent insulation and retain heat well.
Thanks to the unique characteristics of wood, products made from boards protect homes from the penetration of cold air currents.
To ensure that such products do not rot or become moldy during operation, they are additionally treated with special solutions that reliably protect the canvas from wood pests and increase their service life. In addition, wood is easy to process and decorate with various inserts or carvings. The only disadvantage of this raw material is its high cost, so plywood panels are often used as an alternative.
Unlike wood, metal structures have more advantages. They are strong and durable, and in order for such products to provide optimal insulation, they are coated with a protective layer. Metal doors are also painted with enamels and varnish, this protects their surface from rust and allows installation both indoors and outdoors in country houses.
For self-production of entrance structures, as a rule, steel sheets are chosen.
Recently you can also find plastic or metal plastic doors. They are intended for buildings where tambour heating is possible, because plastic does not retain heat. In addition, such products will require additional protection in the form of alarms or grilles. Although plastic is easy to install, it is still not suitable for homes.
Huge selection color range, the presence of decorative inserts and ease of maintenance allows the use of plastic doors for entrances to various organizations and offices.
Dimensions
Before starting production work entrance structure, you should first decide on the dimensions of the future product and correctly measure the doorway. It is worth paying attention to the fact that in each apartment or house the dimensions of the openings may differ. If you plan to install a standard single door, then it will require canvases 860×2050 mm or 960×2050mm. If necessary, non-standard panels can be produced. For simple double doors, leafs of 1200x2050 mm or 1400x2050 mm are used, but for office premises and private houses, it is best to choose larger designs - 1500x2100 mm or even 1600x2100 mm.
Often when installing entrance doors you have to face such a problem as non-standard sizes openings. The most optimal solution in this situation there will be an expansion or filling of the opening itself.
Step-by-step instruction
Home renovation takes a lot of time and money, so many owners often decide to take a desperate step and carry out Finishing work with installation of entrance doors yourself. Of course, the design can be purchased ready-made, but if you want to save money, then it’s quite possible to make it yourself. Before you start making a door, you need to decide on the external shapes and the load that will be placed on the product.
You will also need to prepare the following tools:
- Roulette;
- Pencil;
- Hacksaw;
- Hammer;
- Self-tapping screws;
- Screwdriver;
- Jigsaw;
- Glue.
In addition, upon completion of the work, the doors must be beautifully decorated, so it is important to correctly measure the extensions, place the frame, and decorate the doorways with platbands or additional elements.
To perform such work, you can choose different materials., but natural wood is considered the most affordable. To make a high-quality product, preference should be given to timber with a width of 5 mm and a thickness of no more than 4 mm. Such canvases will provide excellent sound insulation. In addition, it is easier to install a threshold and put steps in wooden doors. As for technology installation work, then they are based on correct measurements of the door frame; the maximum connection of the beam with the frame will depend on them. And for an outdoor structure, you will also need to weld the hinges and paint the surface.
For the manufacture of standard door a canvas 205 cm long is assembled, while its width can be different. First, a frame is prepared, which will look like a frame. Then a fiberboard sheet is cut to the size of the frame and secured with self-tapping screws. After assembling such a structure, the fiberboard is glued. It is advisable to strengthen the beams not only with self-tapping screws, but also with glue.
The finished door is thoroughly dried, and then the hinges are screwed on and the lock is inserted. In order for the product to have an attractive appearance, it is recommended to additionally trim it with dermantine on the gasket. This way the door will turn out beautiful and insulated.
When installing the structure, special attention should also be paid to the insertion of the lock. Its thickness should correspond to the thickness of the canvas. In addition, the lock is a thin mechanism, so when installing it, a misalignment of even 1 mm is not allowed.
As for painting, this is the final stage of work, and it is carried out only after the box is installed.
How to insulate?
One of the purposes of the entrance structure is considered to be good thermal insulation, so the canvas should be well insulated. Various technologies are used for this. If the box is made of metal, then first of all you need to fill its internal unused cavity. In this case, it is filled with a special insulating material in the form mineral wool or polystyrene foam. Also, to keep the door warm, it can be covered with wooden beams. The only drawback of this technology is the formation of cold bridges.
The front door is well insulated with dermantine. With this technology, the door leaf is upholstered on only one side, and a thin layer of insulation is applied to two openings. Thermal insulation is glued directly to the door, and then it is decorated with dermantine or genuine leather.
Equally important is protecting the structure from drafts. There are two ways to do this:
- Insulating the gaps between the frame and the canvas. A rubber or foam seal works well as thermal insulation. It is attached using a self-adhesive base and applied both to the box itself and to the canvas.
- Opening the door frame. Upholstery of external and internal sides slopes, and the gaps between the opening and the structure are filled with insulating material.
If none of the types of thermal insulation are suitable, alternative solution may be the installation of a second entrance door.
How to weld awnings?
Before installing the entrance doors, it is necessary to weld the hinges (canopies). As a rule, to hold a standard structure you will need two hinges, the distance between them should not exceed 20 cm. Before work begins, the canopies are thoroughly cleaned and treated with a special solution. It is advisable to weld the hinges horizontally in relation to the door frame. In the event that the opening is already installed, the welding seam is carried out vertically.
Constructing a wooden door from boards is not a problem for the modern owner. The process will not cause any difficulties, and the cost of a homemade product will be less than purchasing a ready-made structure. To make a door correctly, you need to decide on its type, choose quality material and prepare a minimum set of tools. Step-by-step technology Making a door from boards is described in the article.
Features of wood doors
The construction market offers a wide range of entrance and interior doors. Despite the advent of modern materials, wood products do not lose their popularity when arranging apartments, country houses, offices and public institutions.
Doors made of wood have a number of undeniable advantages:
- low sound and thermal conductivity;
- high frost resistance and good strength;
- low coefficient of thermal expansion;
- durability of wooden structures correct preparation and material processing;
- environmental friendliness of wood - such doors fill the home with positive energy and add natural harmony to the house;
- excellent appearance and the ability to implement unusual design ideas - wooden doors look good in any interior style.
However, wood, as a raw material for making doors, is not without some disadvantages:
- high hygroscopicity - untreated wood absorbs moisture, which subsequently worsens the physical and mechanical properties of the structure;
- imperfection of the material - low-quality wood may contain resin pockets, cracks or knots;
- flammability.
The disadvantages of a wooden door are a consequence of poor-quality material and violation of harvesting technologies. To reduce absorption, the boards must be dried, treated with hot steam and special impregnations.
Types of wood doors
Before you understand how to properly make a door from boards, you need to decide on the nuances of the design different types doors and the features of their manufacture.
Massive doors are made from planed or thick tongue-and-groove boards, interconnected into a single sheet. To strengthen the structure, inclined or horizontal jumpers are installed.
When making a solid door, you need to carefully choose the wood. It is better to construct the entrance structure from dense, high-quality material, for example: cedar, oak or larch. These types of wood are distinguished by their dense structure and textured pattern.
If the question is how to make a door to a bathhouse from boards, then you can use less expensive raw materials (pine, spruce, linden). The main condition is treatment with water-repellent and antiseptic agents.
Paneled doors are made from timber and boards obtained by gluing wooden slats. Subsequently, the timber is covered with natural veneer, and the door acquires an aesthetic appearance. Depending on the artist’s idea, the panels may have the same or different configurations, some wooden elements replaced by glass.
High quality paneled doors are practically no different from solid wood construction.
Transverse and vertical elements are often made from laminated veneer lumber. To make doors batten the required thickness is well suited for this type of work. The individual structural elements are fastened together with spikes or dowels. When creating a paneled door, you must consider:
- the strength of the door depends on the number of crosses - the more there are, the more reliable the home-made structure;
- frames are formed from thick timber, and panel panels are made from MDF, thin boards or wood-imitation plastic;
- the thickness of the panel, as a rule, is 1/3 of the thickness of the frame made of laminated veneer lumber;
- fixing panels in frames using natural or veneered beads.
Panel doors are thin, so they are usually installed between rooms.
How to make a door from unedged boards: video "Making a paneled structure."
Panel doors- budget option, made from inexpensive materials- Fiberboard, lined with laminate or veneer. The panel structure is a frame made of boards and internal filling (shield). Used as a shield chipboard sheets, fiberboard, thick cardboard or MDF.
In turn, panel doors are classified into three types:
- Solid structures are completely filled with edged or uncut timber, fastened together.
- Hollow doors consist of cross and side bars. The frame is covered with clapboard, fiberboard or other material. Vertical and horizontal cross members can be installed inside the structure.
- Fine-hollow door leaves have varying degrees of filling.
Advice. To create a high-quality panel door, the frame is covered with plywood made of alder or linden. The thickness of the cladding is 4-8 mm (two layers of 24 mm each). This material does not deform and is a good basis for decorative finishing.
Choosing wood for making doors
The first stage in the manufacture of input or interior door- selection of suitable lumber. You need to assess your own financial capabilities, decide on the type of wood and select the material from which to make the doors. Wooden boards must meet the following requirements:
- the wood should not have knots, at least there should be very few of them;
- the residual moisture content of raw materials for making doors should be about 12-15% - it is better to choose material that has been dried in a special chamber; such drying guarantees the strength of the wood and resistance to deformation;
- evenness of the boards - before purchasing, the material must be laid on a flat surface and checked for tight fit on the sides;
- the thickness of the wooden boards for making doors depends on the location of its installation - for the entrance structure it is optimal - 5 cm, for the interior the door will fit wood with a thickness of 2.5 cm;
- Before use, the boards must be sanded with sandpaper or a sander.
Both coniferous and deciduous wood are suitable for work. Front doors are often made of oak and beech. Pine is suitable for interior models. The resin content of conifers protects the wood from rotting and fungal diseases.
When settling in summer cottage plot You can save on material and not spend money on purchasing wood to make a door. The boards from a barn or other structure that is being demolished are quite suitable for the job. The main thing is to check them for defects and mold.
How to make a door from boards: step-by-step instructions
Let's take a closer look at how to make a door from boards yourself. The basis of any massive door is a plank panel, which must be correctly assembled and securely fastened. A fencing made of solid boards is installed between rooms, at the entrance to a bathhouse, house or utility block. Of course, the appearance of the product will differ in different cases.
Required tools and materials
Work begins after preparing the tool kit and workpiece necessary materials. It is advisable to have a stable workbench available on which the elements will be assembled into a single piece.
Tools you will need:
- manual router for creating grooves, holes, grinding surfaces, leveling corners, etc.;
- hacksaw;
- a plane for grinding and leveling the door at the ends;
- chisels of different sizes;
- regular and rubber hammer;
- building level, pencil, tape measure, meter;
- sanding machine or sandpaper;
- screwdriver
Materials and consumables you will need:
- tongue and groove boards - the choice of thickness and width depends on the purpose door design, as well as its design;
- self-tapping screws of various lengths;
- wood glue.
It is advisable to dry the purchased wood additionally. Even if the material appears ready for use, it is better to be safe. Each board should be laid on a spacer - they should not touch each other. This is necessary so that moisture can freely escape from the wood fibers. If the boards are not sufficiently dried, mold may form and ruin the finished product.
Drying time at a temperature of +25°C takes about one to two months. The room where the wood is located must be well ventilated.
Important! When using a special chamber for drying, the temperature must not exceed +50°C. Otherwise, the resin from coniferous wood will leak out and the material will partially lose its strength.
Manufacturing of door leaf
Let's look at step by step how to make a door from a tongue and groove board:
Decorating a massive door
The next step is processing and decorating the door leaf. The work is performed in the following order:
- Treat the surface with sandpaper or a grinder.
- Impregnate the wood with an antiseptic. Apply the first layer and leave until completely dry. Repeat processing. Antiseptic impregnation will protect the door from damage by harmful microorganisms and rotting.
- Cover the canvas with putty - this layer will hide minor irregularities. Putty can be replaced with a primer. In this case, it is necessary to treat the door twice, allowing each layer to dry completely. The primer usually dries within one day.
- The finishing of the door is done with varnish, stain or paint of the desired color. The stain is applied to the primed surface. The number of layers depends on how saturated and intense the shade should be. Each layer should dry for about 4 hours. To consolidate the result, apply two layers of varnish over the stain.
Important! Entrance door it is necessary to treat not only with an antiseptic, but also with a water-repellent composition. When creating an entrance structure for an apartment, it is advisable to cover the canvas with flame retardants.
It is better to entrust more complex decoration options (carving, milling, stenciling, mosaics) to experienced craftsmen.
Door installation
Door leaf installation sequence:
- Align the vertical and horizontal walls of the doorway.
- Assemble the door frame according to the dimensions of the opening and check the evenness of its installation. Finished design must be rigid and durable.
- Try the canvas to the opening. If necessary, adjust the dimensions of the product.
- Secure the door structure in the opening, fixing the individual sides of the frame in the opening with long self-tapping screws. The heads of the fasteners are sunk into the material and closed with plugs that match the color.
- “Foam” the gaps between the door frame and the walls. Collect cash items.
- Prepare the canvas for installation. Mount the handle, hinges and embed the lock. Apply markings on the finished shield to place hanging hinges. It is optimal to install the hinges if they are flush with the end side of the door leaf.
- On the door frame, mark the installation locations for hinged hinges and the location for the locking tab. Make corresponding grooves according to the marks.
- Hang the canvas on the hinges and adjust the structure. In order for the locking tab to fit into the box, the counter plate must be secured.
How to make a door from boards with your own hands: video
