How to make hanging rafters with your own hands. Making a hanging chair with your own hands: two step-by-step master classes How to make hanging chairs
Hanging garden on gutters - great way take advantage vertical space around your home to grow flowers, edibles and create a stylish space divider or garden screen without spending too much money.
Materials
1 - 8" white PVC rain gutter cut into 3 sections 32"
6 - white PVC plugs for gutters
2 - 1/8 " steel cables cut to desired length
6 - Clamps (see image below)
6 - 1/8" steel rods
2 - Galvanized hooks
Tools
Cordless drill/driver
Hand saw or wire cutters
Right Angle Ruler
Roulette
Permanent marker
1. Locate the center of your gutters and mark (otherwise your gutter won't hang straight).
2. Mark and drill holes for the steel cable rods. Find a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the cable to minimize the space for maneuver.
3. Drill holes a few sizes larger, making sure you get good drainage (plant roots don't like to sit in water for long periods of time).
4. Find a place that gets at least 4 hours of sunshine. I placed my gutters on a gazebo I built a couple of years ago.
5. Drill pilot holes (the hole is slightly smaller in diameter than the auger diameter) to make screwing in the hooks easier. Make sure the holes are evenly spaced so the cable hangs straight down.
6. Pull the gutters through the holes and secure them with cross clamps at the desired height. You'll notice that I've placed a grid (usually used for plasterboard seams) left over from another project, over the drainage holes to keep the soil from seeping through. However, I think the holes are small enough that this step is optional. I did it out of habit.
7. Secure the gutter with cross clamps and semi-circular steel rods.
Now everything is ready to be filled in organic soil and planting small rooted plants of your choice.
If you liked this material, then we offer you a selection of the most the best materials our site according to our readers. You can find a selection - TOP about existing eco-villages, family estates, their history of creation and everything about eco-houses where it is most convenient for youSuspended ceilings are the most common in the world. This is explained by both their diversity and ease of use: the space between the main and decorative ceiling used for invisible laying of any necessary for comfortable life communications. Therefore, many are interested in how to make a suspended ceiling with their own hands.
All suspended ceilings are structures consisting of suspensions, a supporting frame and cladding elements. Therefore, they are all installed using the same technology with minor differences.
We’ll talk about how to properly make a suspended ceiling in this article.
Types of suspended ceilings
The difference between some suspension systems and others is determined, first of all, by the shape of the cladding modules. These can be tiles, panels, slats, cassettes, gratings, which give the name to the entire structure. What the suspended ceilings are made from also matters.
Tiled suspended ceilings
The brightest representative is, facing tiles which are made from mineral fiber. This finish suspended ceiling most often used in public buildings, as it looks quite cold and formal.
But using the same principle, you can mount the ceiling with your own hands with other facing slabs, cutting them from plasterboard, MDF, glass, mirror or even foam.
Panel suspended ceilings
Most often you can find do-it-yourself ones - plastic or MDF panels. Sometimes wooden lining is used instead.
The principle of connecting all panels to each other is the same: one panel with its thinner edge is inserted into the groove of the other. After which a continuous surface is formed without cracks or visible joints.
Slatted suspended ceilings
Laths are long steel or aluminum panels. If you are deciding how to make it yourself, then this is the most affordable option for newbies. The frame for such a ceiling consists only of longitudinal support rails, and the slats are attached to them by snapping onto the protrusions of the profile. That is, without the use of any fastening hardware.
Slat ceiling
Cassette and cellular ceilings
The main elements of cassette ceilings are metal cassettes (modules) made of steel or aluminum. If you already know how to make a suspended ceiling from tiles with your own hands, then you can easily cope with the installation of cassette hanging systems.
In cellular (lattice) ceilings, the facing modules are square lattices made of aluminum profiles.
For reference. Plasterboard ceilings are also considered suspended, since sheets of plasterboard are attached to a frame suspended from the ceiling. But their design does not end there: the mounted surface also requires decorative finishing. Therefore, in this article we will only talk about how suspended ceilings are made, which can be used immediately after installation.
If you have already decided which of these options suits you best than the others, it’s time to find out how to make a suspended ceiling with your own hands. Our improvised repair school will help you with this. A few lessons and you can confidently begin to act.
Installation of suspended ceilings
Let's divide the whole process into several main stages, and tell you about each of them in detail.
Stage 1 – design
At this stage you need to resolve the following issues:
- How far the suspended ceiling will drop relative to the base surface. It depends on what systems will be installed in the ceiling space. Most often these are air conditioning ducts and electrical wiring, placed in corrugated sleeves.
- How the light sources will be located on the ceiling.
- In which direction will the cladding be attached: parallel to the walls or diagonally.
- If you want to create a pattern on the ceiling using tiles different color and texture, then ceiling modeling is best done in a computer program in order to choose the most optimal option.
Before making suspended ceilings, sketch (or print) finished project to scale. The drawing will help you to determine the required quantities of all materials.
Stage 2 – marking
Regardless of what type of finishing you choose, first mark the level of the new ceiling around the perimeter of the room (along the walls). How are markings made?
- First, using a laser or hydraulic level at a convenient height for you, draw a horizontal line along all the walls of the room.
- Then, using a tape measure, take simple measurements from the drawn line to the ceiling to find the lowest point of the base surface.
- From the found point, set down the distance by which you decided to lower the ceiling, and put a mark on the wall.
- Using the mark as a guide, again use the level to draw a new horizontal line on the walls.
Important! If you did everything correctly, the resulting line should go along all the walls and close on the mark.
Stage 3 – installation of the frame
Installation begins with the installation of guide profiles, which are applied to the intended horizon line with the lower edge and attached to the walls with dowels, anchors or ordinary self-tapping screws. It depends on the material of the walls.
Attention! Installation of panel suspended ceilings does not require the installation of guides.
How are tags made? A tape measure is stretched along the guide profile, and vertical lines are made under it at a given distance from each other. The same should be repeated on the opposite wall.
The distance between the supporting profiles depends on the type of ceiling covering.
- If it is a panel ceiling, then the profiles are installed perpendicular to the direction of fastening the cladding in increments of 40-60 cm. The first profile is attached close to the wall.
Attention! For installation of lining or panels MDF frame It is better to make it not from a metal profile, but from wooden slats.
- The supporting rails for the slatted ceiling are also located parallel to each other and perpendicular to the direction of the slats. The distance from the wall to the first tire is 40 cm, the distance between the tires is 120 cm.
- Distance between guides for cassette, tile and cellular ceilings usually 60 cm - this is the size of standard facing elements. But the frame of such ceilings has more complex design, which, in addition to longitudinal ones, also includes transverse profiles. Therefore, markings should be made in all directions.
Now let’s talk about how to make suspended ceilings so that they don’t sag. To do this, the frame must be rigidly connected to the base ceiling using adjustable hangers. They are attached to the ceilings using anchors or dowels exactly along the line of the load-bearing profiles.
The profile is then connected to the hangers through special holes, and the latter are adjustable in length so that the entire frame is maintained in a horizontal plane.
Advice. If the distance between the base and decorative surface is less than 10 cm, then you can use direct hangers.
If the ceiling design provides for the installation of transverse profiles, then they are attached to the longitudinal ones after their installation. Most modern suspension systems have special locking connections
for extending the profile along the length and connecting it with transverse inserts. Therefore, there should be no problems with this.
Before you make your own suspended ceiling, or rather, before covering it, you need to once again make sure that the technological distances between the load-bearing profiles are maintained, and that the entire frame is located in the same plane.
This is the easiest step if the frame is mounted correctly.
- Cladding panels slatted ceilings They simply snap onto the guides.
- The same thing happens with cassettes and grilles if a closed suspension system is used. Otherwise, the modules are simply inserted into a frame cell, like the tiles of a tiled ceiling.
- Some difficulty may arise with the question of how a suspended ceiling is made from panels, since each panel must be secured to the frame with hardware.
Conclusion
This article provides only general description how to make a false ceiling. You will find more detailed information on each type of ceiling in other materials on the site.
The phrase “hanging garden” refers us to the first tourist rating in European media - a shortlist of seven “wonders of the world”, which was compiled by Herodotus in his “History”. One of these wonders (which are worth a look at for an inquisitive person, and the ancient Greeks were very inquisitive people) were the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. As Herodotus was told, they were built in order to console the king’s wife, who was yearning among the Iraqi sands for her distant, flourishing homeland - mountainous Media. Of course, what can be arranged on a country plot will be many times inferior in scale to the splendor of the Middle East, but every summer resident is quite capable of creating his own miracle.
The main investment that hanging gardens require is time. However, you don’t need much more of it than when caring for potted plants. The list of necessary measures is standard: fertilizing, treatment against diseases and pests, removal of faded flowers and daily watering.
The main advantage of hanging gardens is space saving. Any vertical surface to which you can attach ampelous (hanging) plants is suitable for their placement: house walls, fencing of terraces and gazebos, fences, pergolas and even lamp posts. In some cases, metal frames and grilles are additionally installed. This type of landscaping, among other things, can serve as an effective and ingenious means of camouflage, hiding construction or finishing defects. At the same time, it is important to correlate the strength of the fasteners and the weight of the flower containers, especially if multi-tiered structures are intended to be installed. Ordinary garden soil due to its density it is unsuitable here. It is recommended to use light substrates consisting mostly of peat, turf land, sand, agroperlite, vermiculite and fine expanded clay. Such a mixture most effectively ensures plant hydration and absorption nutrients. It is also worth paying attention to hydrogel as a source of moisture. As for containers for flowers, today, as a rule, lightweight plastic containers and flowerpots are used. But for powerful flyers, baskets and cones are purchased from metal mesh. To place vertical flower arrangements the most illuminated and well-sheltered areas from the wind are selected.
The undoubted advantage of hanging gardens is their mobility. In fact, this is a modular landscape constructor, from the elements of which you can form any composition. Vertical gardening leaves a lot of room for experimentation. Subject to certain rules, even a novice summer resident has access to a huge variety of options, which is determined by the types of flowers, their combinations in hanging flower beds, the distance between the ampels, cascading, linear or single (“flower clouds”) types of placement, etc. It is quite acceptable to make substitutions, create color and texture accents, and change the geometric order. However, we should not forget that hanging gardens are ceremonial elements landscape design and directly affect the appearance of the entire site. This means that they must correspond to the overall stylistic context. If horizontal flower beds and potted plants may represent separate groups, then hanging flower beds strictly obey the initially specified design guidelines.
The range of annuals for vertical gardens and flower beds is very significant. For example, it is enough to name hanging varieties fuchsia, petunia, diascia, nemesia, impatience, lavatera, pelargonium, marigold, ageratum. At the same time, traditional garden vines - morning glory, kobea, sweet pea, thunbergia - are clearly not suitable for hanging containers, since they need support (otherwise they will not be able to give the expected results). visual effect). Herbaceous ornamental plants They will also not be able to play their role properly, lost among the bright floral waves of their lushly blooming neighbors.
Having studied the generally simple and few recommendations on how to make a hanging garden with your own hands, you can bring a whole carnival of amazing natural colors to the appearance of your suburban area. Which landscaping model to choose—luxurious floral carpets or individual “cloud” baskets, elegant potted collections or multi-stage flower beds reminiscent of waterfalls—depends on the chosen style and personal preferences. In addition, working with hanging gardens will be an excellent school for an amateur gardener. It will allow you to better understand the properties various plants, will show you how to create beneficial contrasts and combine bushy and climbing species. This experience will be extremely useful when arranging horizontal flower beds and flower beds.
Even more useful information from the world of real estate on our
It is hardly possible to meet a person who would not feel the desire to settle down in comfortable chair and feel the smooth rocking movements suspended structure. Comfortable swings have always been very popular. Today is a series suspended seats significantly expanded: hanging sofas and armchairs decorate many suburban areas, easily fitting into landscape design.
The basis for the manufacture of hanging seats was ordinary rocking chairs. Wicker structures made of rattan or wicker have become the most promising for furniture experiments, because they weigh quite little, but at the same time have excellent strength.
As a result of such furniture experiments, designers created hanging chairs resembling half a ball in shape.
Semicircular structures are attractive because they allow you to evenly distribute the entire load. In addition, they are convenient to hang, installing the device at the highest point.
The frame of hanging chairs can have several options.
Wicker chairs made of wicker, rattan, transparent acrylic or plastic have a rigid body. For convenience, they are supplemented decorative pillows and soft mattresses
A hammock chair is a softer version of a hanging structure. On the swinging soft pillows You can always pamper yourself in moments of relaxation
A cocoon chair covered on three sides with wicker walls is ideal for privacy and abstraction from the outside bustle.
Instead of traditional rattan or wicker, hanging chairs are increasingly being used. synthetic materials, thanks to which structures become lighter, more flexible and quieter.
As you can see, there are many options. We will specifically look at 2 examples.
It is not difficult to build such a chair. You just need to master the basic technique of weaving macrame.
This hanging chair will create a special atmosphere on the site, conducive to peace and tranquility
To make a chair we will need:
- Two metal hoops different diameters(for seat D=70 cm, for back D=110 cm);
- 900 meters of cord for weaving;
- 12 meters of slings;
- 2 thick cords for connecting rings;
- 2 wooden rods;
- Scissors, tape measure;
- Work gloves.
To decorate the chair, it is better to use hoops made from metal-plastic pipes with a cross-section of 35 mm. Metal-plastic pipes of this thickness have a metal braid inside and are able to provide sufficient strength to the suspended structure.
To make a hoop from a pipe, first determine the length of the segment using the formula S = 3.14xD, where S is the length of the pipe, D is the required diameter of the hoop. For example: to make a hoop D = 110 cm, you need to measure 110x3.14 = 345 cm of pipe.
Wooden or plastic internal inserts of the appropriate diameter are ideal for connecting the ends of pipes; they can be secured with ordinary screws.
For weaving, a polyamide cord with a 4 mm thick polypropylene core is ideal, which can be purchased at hardware store. It is good because it has a soft surface, but unlike cotton fibers, when knitting it is able to create denser knots that will not “creep” during use. To avoid discrepancies in the color and texture of the material, it is advisable to purchase the entire volume of cord at once.
Stage #1 – creating a wrap for hoops
Our task is to completely cover metal surface hoops. To decorate 1 meter of hoop with tight turns it takes about 40 meters of cord. We make the turns slowly with good tension, laying the cord evenly and neatly.
To make the winding more dense, tighten it every 20 turns, twisting them forcefully in the direction of the winding until it stops. As a result, we should get a smooth and dense surface of the braid. And yes, to protect your hands from calluses, it is better to carry out this work with gloves.
Stage #2 – mesh weaving
When creating a grid, you can use any macrame pattern you like. The easiest way is to take a “chess” with flat knots as a basis.
We weave the mesh with double polyamide cord, attaching it to the braided hoop with double knots
While weaving, monitor the tension of the cord. The elasticity will depend on this finished mesh. The free ends of the knots should not be cut off yet. You can use them to form a fringe.
Stage #3 – assembly of the structure
We assemble the braided hoops into a single structure. To do this, we fasten them at one edge, wrapping them together with one cord.
From the opposite edge of the winding we place two wooden rods vertically, which will serve as support for the back of the structure
The length of the support rods can be any and is determined only by the selected backrest height. To prevent the hoops from slipping, we make shallow cuts at the four ends of the wooden rods.
Stage #4 – design of the back of the chair
The weaving pattern for the back can also be any. Weaving begins from the upper part of the back. Gradually lowering yourself to a seat.
We tighten the free ends of the cords on the lower ring, collecting their hanging edges into loose tassels
When the pattern is braided, we fix the ends of the threads in the lower part of the back and decorate them with fringe. The structure will be strengthened by two thick cords that connect the backrest to the seat. An elegant hanging chair is ready. All that remains is to attach the slings and hang the chair in the chosen place.
Hanging chair with cover
If you don’t want to weave, or for some other reason the first option didn’t suit you, then this one might be suitable.
A cozy, gently rocking nest is an ideal place where you can relax, forget about your problems, or just take a nap
To make such a hanging chair, we will need:
- Hoop D=90 cm;
- A piece of durable fabric 3-1.5 m;
- Non-woven fabric, double linen or trouser braid;
- Metal buckles – 4 pcs.;
- Sling – 8 m;
- Metal ring (for hanging the chair);
- Sewing machine and essential tailoring supplies.
You can make a hoop from metal-plastic pipe, which is sold in the form of a rolled coil, or from bent wood. But when using wood, you should be prepared for the fact that under the influence of temperature changes, the hoop can quickly dry out and become deformed.
Stage #1 – cutting out the cover
From a three-meter cut we cut two equal squares, each measuring 1.5 x 1.5 meters. We fold each of the squares separately four times. To make a circle out of it, draw a circle from the central corner with a radius of 65 cm and cut it out. Using the same principle, we make and cut out a circle from another square. On each of the resulting circles, stepping back from the edges by 4 cm, we outline the inner contour with a dashed line.
We mark the holes for the slings: fold the circle in four and iron it so that the folds are guidelines. The first pair of lines will be located relative to the bend at an angle of 45 0, the second - 30 0. Having marked the corners for the slots for the slings, we lay out both circles again and iron them.
We make rectangular slits measuring 15x10 cm along the designated four axes. We make the slits along the contour of the Y-shaped markings made inside the rectangles
To make identical slits on both circles, we connect the pieces of fabric and pin them together. Along the contour of the finished cuts of the first circle, we make slits on the second piece of fabric.
We bend the petals of the slots inside out, gluing the edges with non-woven material. Only after this we make a full slit, stitching it along the edge, retreating 3 cm
Stage #2 – connecting elements
Sew both circles together along the previously marked dashed line, leaving a hole for inserting a hoop. We cut out the free allowance using cloves. We turn the finished cover inside out and iron it.
From the filling material we cut out strips 6-8 cm wide, with which we cover the hoop. The sheathed frame is inserted into the case
Having retreated 5-7 cm from the edge, we sweep both sides together. Turn the edges of the hole left for inserting the hoop inside out.
We pin off the unstitched allowances from the front side, and sew the edges, stepping back from the edge by 2-3 cm. Using the same technology, we process the entire edge of the cover
We fill the case with padding polyester, stretching strips of filler and fixing their edges with a hidden seam. To strengthen the cover on the hoop, we quilt the fabric in several places.
Sling mode for four sections 2 meters long. To prevent the threads from unraveling, we melt the edges of the slings.
We pull the melted ends of the slings through the slots, form loops from them and stitch them 2-3 times
To be able to adjust the height and angle of the hanging chair, we put buckles on the free ends of the slings. We collect all the slings into one suspension, securing them to a metal ring.
Methods for arranging a suspension system
This chair can be placed in the garden, hanging from a thick branch of a spreading tree. If you plan to make a hanging chair a functional decoration for a veranda or gazebo, you will need to build a hanging structure.
The suspension system must support not only the weight of the chair itself, but also the weight of the person sitting on it.
To secure a simple hanging chair, the weight of which, together with the person sitting in it, is no more than 100 kilograms, it is enough to install a simple anchor bolt
With this method of fastening, one should take into account the maximum load on the ceiling, which is measured in kg/m2, because the entire suspension system will act on this area. If the permissible load less weight obtained in the calculation, it is necessary to distribute the load across the ceiling by constructing a load-bearing frame combining several anchor bolts.
Make such a chair, and you will get an excellent opportunity to relax at any time, enjoying pleasant rocking movements, while gaining peace and a philosophical attitude towards all troubles.
Upon entering any room, the first thing that somehow comes into view is the ceiling. From its design and appearance depends on the overall perception of the interior and the impression it makes. It is for this reason that designers try to pay special attention to the ceiling. Thanks to the development of technologies in construction and the emergence of plasterboard structures, the possibilities for creating unique suspended ceilings have become almost unlimited. Today, the abundance and availability building materials allows you to create a suspended ceiling with your own hands without any problems, the main thing is to be able to use the tool and know how to make a suspended ceiling. Despite the ease of installation, it is impossible to do it alone, so invite a couple more assistants.
Basic device suspended ceiling
The design of suspended ceilings is single-level or multi-level metal carcass, attached to the ceiling and walls of the room, which is lined with sheets of plasterboard with built-in lighting fixtures.
To create the frame, galvanized steel is used metal profiles PP 60/27 and PPN 28/27 (imported analogue of CD and UD), parts of which are connected to each other with metal screws and special single-level (crabs) or two-level connectors. To attach the frame to the ceiling, straight or spring hangers are used, secured to the ceiling with anchors or dowels.
For covering the metal frame, gypsum plasterboard sheet (GKL) with a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 600 or 1200 mm and a length of 1500 - 2500 mm is used. Fixing the gypsum board to the metal frame is done with drywall screws. Recommendations for choosing gypsum plasterboards are based on exactly these parameters optimal combination strength and weight of the suspended ceiling. Subject to technology total weight 1 m2 of construction will be about 13 kg.
Preparatory work: stages
As with any other construction work, before making a suspended ceiling, you will have to do some preparation. This will concern the surface of the old ceiling, creating a design project and hanging diagram, and calculating the necessary materials.
Let's prepare the floor surface
The ceiling surface must be carefully prepared: remove old finishes, repair
Although the suspended ceiling will hide the surface of the ceiling, draw a series preparatory work have to. This will make it easier to install the ceiling and provide reliable fastening the entire structure. We begin work by removing the old finish, which we completely remove before puttingty or plaster, and if there were none, then until ceiling. Then we carefully check the surface for cracks, partially or completely peeled putty or plaster.
If everything is in order, then you can prime and putty the surface, and then proceed to further work. Otherwise, you will have to carry out more thorough repairs, perhaps even re-plaster the ceiling. Ideally, you should have a strong and flat surface to which the metal frame will be attached.
Design project and suspended ceiling diagram
The creation of a suspended ceiling begins with the development of its design project. Today, thanks to various architectural programs, creating such a project takes very little time. These programs allow you to examine and select the most attractive future suspended ceiling in volume and color.
Our video review about what types of suspended ceilings there are:
To all other, computer programs will allow you to create and print a diagram of a suspended ceiling with all necessary materials and their quantity. But those who are used to doing everything the old fashioned way - on paper - will have to work a little more. Creating a diagram and calculating materials manually is carried out as follows:
- the first thing needed for calculations is to measure the room and calculate the perimeter. For example, we have a room measuring 3x5 m. P=(3+5)*2=16 m. This will also be the length of the guide profile PPN 28/27. We transfer the size of the room to scale onto paper;
Example of a suspended ceiling diagram
Important! When measuring a room, you may find that opposite walls have different lengths. In this case, we take the largest value for calculations.
- the next step is to calculate the frame profile. The supporting frame will be made of PP 60/27 profile, which is attached to the ceiling in increments of 600 mm. For ease of installation, the length of one profile strip will be equal to the width of the room. We calculate the number of slats as follows: 3000/600 = 8.3 and round to the nearest whole number. To evenly distribute the planks, we place the first and last at a distance of 100 mm from the walls, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. This step was not chosen by chance. The fact is that gypsum board has standard width 600 mm and 1200 mm, and for reliable fastening it is necessary that the edges of the sheets lie on the profile. We mark the placement of the profile strips on the diagram;
- Now you need to calculate the number of hangers. All hangers are attached to the ceiling in increments of 600 mm. All frame profile strips will require (3000/600)*8=40 hangers. We attach the first and last suspension at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. On the diagram, we mark the place of their attachment with crosses;
Important! Direct hangers can be used in two cases. The first is when the height of the suspended ceiling does not exceed 120 mm, the second is when the surface of the ceiling is absolutely flat. Otherwise, it is recommended to use spring hangers and constantly monitor the horizon using a level.
- To add rigidity to the suspended ceiling structure, you will need to additionally install lintels from the PP 60/27 profile. The jumpers themselves are installed between the main load-bearing planks with a pitch of 600 mm. To fix them, a special connector is used - a crab. The number of connectors is calculated as follows ((3000/600)-1)*8=32 pcs. Why exactly 32 pieces, and not 40? The fact is that the first line of jumpers is installed at a distance of 600 mm from the wall, the second 1200 mm, the third 1800, the fourth 2400. The fifth row is the wall itself. Now we mark on the diagram the place where the crabs are attached and, by connecting them with a solid line, we get the location for installing the jumpers.
Important! There are two types of connectors: single-level (crab) and two-level. The difference is in the method of fastening and in the height of the final structure. Thus, the crab allows you to place all the profile strips on the same level, and overall height profile with gypsum board will be 27+9.5=36.5 mm. The height of the profile and gypsum board with a two-level connector will be 27+27+9.5=63.5 mm. In addition, the profile consumption in the second case will be greater. But which method to choose is up to the master to decide.
All that remains is to calculate required amount sheets of drywall. Everything here is extremely simple, knowing the area of the room is 5*3=15 m2, and the area of one sheet, for example 2.5*1.2=3 m2, we get 15/3=5 sheets.
Now we calculate the number of screws. This must be done based on the following data:
- for fastening to the ceiling and walls, dowels and 6x60 screws are used, the pitch for fastening to walls is 300 mm, for the ceiling 600 mm;
- to fix the profile and hangers, profile and crabs, you will need a self-tapping screw LN 9, LN 11. For the profile and hanger you need 2 screws, for the crab and profile 4 screws;
- MN 30 screws are used to fix the gypsum boards. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm.
In the end, all that remains is to mark the location of the lighting fixtures on the diagram and calculate the required amount of wiring.
How to make a suspended ceiling yourself
About how to install a suspended ceiling with listing various options installation, you can write a small scientific report. In this article, we will look at the simplest installation option, which you can do on your own, without having the professional skills of a builder.
Working with a marker and tape measure
Installation of suspended ceilings begins with marking the surface of the ceiling. If the surface of the ceiling is flat, take a tape measure and a marker. We measure the height of the future suspended ceiling without taking into account the sheet of drywall. We put 3 - 4 marks along the entire length on each wall, then take the painting thread and connect the marks in one line. This line will be a guideline for the PPN 28/27 guide profile.
Now we apply markings on the ceiling for the main profile PP 60/27 and suspensions. We retreat the required distance from the walls, put a few marks and beat off a line using paint thread. We repeat the procedure for all other planks of the supporting profile in increments of 600 mm. On the marked lines for the frame profile we mark places for direct hangers, as shown in the diagram.
Ceiling frame installation
We fix the profiles to the walls and ceiling, forming a frame for plasterboard sheets
Having finished with the main markings, we proceed to the installation of profiles. We start with a guide profile PPN 28/27 along the perimeter of the room. We take a hammer drill or a drill in our hands and, along the previously drawn line, drill holes for 6x60 dowels. We drill the same holes on the profile. For reliable fastening, drill the first and last holes 100 mm from the wall, all subsequent holes 300 mm from the wall. We drive dowels into the resulting holes and screw the PPN profile into place.
Important! During the installation of a suspended ceiling you will have to screw in a lot various screws and screws, so use a screwdriver. This will greatly speed up and facilitate all work.
The next step is to fix the hangers. To do this, take the suspension and apply it to the mark on the ceiling. It should be located strictly in the middle of the line and at right angles to it. We mark a place for the dowel and drill a hole. Then we drive the dowel inside and screw the hanger on. We repeat the entire procedure for 40 suspensions.
Important! The hanger can be secured with 1 or 2 dowels, it depends on how reliable design want to receive.
Now we fix the main frame. To do this, we bend the antennae of the suspensions down so that the profile fits freely between them. We bring the profile inward and fix it at the required height on the sides with metal screws.
Example: what the frame of a multi-level suspended ceiling might look like
Having secured all the profile strips, take a tape measure and mark the places where the crabs are attached. Then we place them on top of the profile with the tendrils down and press down firmly to snap them inside. Having done this, we proceed to cutting jumpers from the PP 60/27 profile. To do this, we will use a grinder or metal scissors and cut the entire profile into pieces. We take the size on the basis that the jumper will fit tightly between the main planks. Having cut the required amount, we proceed to installation. Place the jumper underneath the crab and press them tightly together so that the crab snaps inside. Having installed all the jumpers in this way, we align them in a straight line according to the drawn diagram. Then we fix all the crabs and profiles together with 4 screws.
Frame installation is complete. You can install heat and sound insulation, as well as lay wiring for lighting.
Rules for covering the surface of gypsum boards
We install gypsum plasterboard sheets to the ceiling frame: plasterboard slabs are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws
We apply sheets of drywall to the prepared frame and screw it to the profile with self-tapping screws. We make sure that the edges of the plasterboard lie on the profile. For reliability, we fasten all the sheets apart. To do this you will have to trim some, but this is done very easily. First, cardboard is cut under the ruler on one side, the plaster is carefully broken, and then the cardboard is cut through on the other side.
After installation, you first need to treat the butt seams and the places where the screws are installed with putty, then cover the entire ceiling with putty mixture
Video guide: installation of Knauf ceiling
The installation of the suspended ceiling with your own hands is completed, all that remains is finishing. To do this, carefully putty and level all the joints and places where screws are screwed in. We wait until the putty is completely dry, after which we apply the finishing layer. finishing materials. Finally we install lighting. All work on installing a suspended ceiling is quite simple for beginners in the construction business. The main thing is to follow the work technology.
