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Clay castle. How and with what to hide the lining of a decorative pond How to make a clay castle in a pond

Creating an artificial reservoir is absolutely not a difficult process if certain rules are followed. The most critical stage is the choice of the principle of waterproofing. Given the current variety of possibilities, choosing a specific method is sometimes quite difficult to make. Therefore, before giving preference to the option that suits your opinion, carefully read the information below about the advantages, disadvantages and technology of the most popular modern solutions in order to ensure long-term operation reservoir and its stable attractiveness.

In some cases, it is quite acceptable to create a pond without creating reliable waterproofing, but in this case, either its service life will be short, or it will be necessary to use heavy equipment to compact the soil at the bottom.

The use of one of the technologies for arranging such a layer still brings some advantages that are quite significant:

There are 3 main ways to construct an artificial reservoir:

Important! Select suitable technology, taking into account the following criteria:

What materials should be used to waterproof a pond?

If you prefer the first method and decide to make waterproofing for the pond one of available materials suitable type, carefully consider the features of use of each. The most popular types:

Installation of a finished rigid form

Such products are represented on the market quite widely. model range from the following materials:

• plastic;
• fiberglass.

We can safely note this method as the simplest and less labor-intensive than all other options. Plastic forms are especially popular today, and within the framework of private landscape design, and when designing commercial or public areas.

Advantages

Flaws

Installation technology

All work on arranging waterproofing of a pond in this way will not take much time; if you have the appropriate equipment, it is quite possible to completely complete the project within 1 day.

Sequencing:

Video

View an example of how you can quickly create a pond on own plot using a ready-made form.

Arranging a pond using film

Another modern solution, which provides ample opportunities not only for the initial design of the reservoir, but also for changing its shape during operation. There are several varieties of this material, the most popular of which are:

Laying technology

The principle of waterproofing a pond with film also does not cause any difficulties when performing work, but it is still necessary to observe a certain sequence and follow the recommendations.

Algorithm for laying waterproofing film:

1. Dig a pit in accordance with the parameters specified in the project.
2. Dig a small trench along the perimeter of the coastline to conveniently and securely fasten the film in the future.
3. Clear the surface inside the pit of stones and ingrown plant roots.
4. Thoroughly compact the soil in the pit.
5. Form sand cushion from wet material.
6. Lay geotextiles on top to create additional protection for the waterproofing film.
   
7. To lay the canvas on the bottom of the pond as quickly as possible, do the work using one of the suggested methods:
   
8. At each tier, secure the film with stones to prevent it from shifting.
   
9. Avoid strong tension on the canvas - it is better if there is a small sagging gap left on each tier.
   
10. Level it out waterproofing film.
11. Secure the surface with stones, leaving a gap of up to 50 cm.
    
12. Pour water into the pond.
    
    

    Important! Let the water flow with low pressure. If, as the film is filled, tension occurs in some places, loosen it to prevent tearing.

13. Leave for a day or two so that the canvas is completely straightened and takes the desired shape.
14. Finally secure the waterproofing film in the trench on the surface using small cross-section beams or plastic pipes, tucking the excess fabric under them.
    

    Important! If you want to hide the waterproofing film, drain the water, fill the bottom with sand and fill it again with low pressure.

15. Decorate with selected plants and stones.
    

Video

Watch a video with an example of waterproofing artificial lake PVC film.

Waterproofing a pond with clay

Despite the painstaking and time-consuming work involved in waterproofing a pond with clay, this method has not lost its relevance to this day. It is preferred mainly by those owners of their own plots who strive to fulfill everything construction works exclusively from natural materials, but at the same time ensure the strength and reliability of the designed structures.

Waterproofing technology:

Waterproofing a reservoir with liquid rubber

This method is relatively new, but is becoming increasingly popular among consumers.

The use of liquid rubber, which is based on bitumen and polymer particles, provides many advantages:

To give you an idea of ​​how easy it is to do the job using this material, here is an example of the standard sequence for waterproofing with liquid rubber:

Video

Watch the video, which clearly shows the process of creating waterproofing with liquid rubber, to independently evaluate all the advantages of such a solution.

Concrete waterproofing

This waterproofing option is one of the most expensive, labor-intensive and time-consuming. In addition, competent implementation of the project without certain construction skills is unlikely to succeed.

Advantages

Flaws

Device technology

The scope of work with this approach varies depending on the size of the project, its complexity and the intended installation location.

The standard sequence consists of the following steps:

Mechanical waterproofing of a reservoir

To waterproof an artificial reservoir using this principle, you will not need any Supplies, but the use of an excavator or other similar equipment is mandatory.

Important! The effectiveness of this method is that when pressure is applied to the soil fine particles fall into the lower layers of the soil, filling voids. Large parts remain on the surface.

Pond without waterproofing

Creating a reservoir without a waterproofing coating is quite acceptable, for example, in the case of high groundwater or clayey terrain.

The procedure for designing such a reservoir is extremely simple and consists of the following steps:

Conclusion

Regardless of which method you prefer, be sure to use quality materials and follow all the rules of waterproofing technology. In this case, you will not have to regularly carry out restoration work and spend a lot of effort and time on caring for the water surface of the reservoir.

"Invisible" lining decorative pond. Any pond needs lining. Here are some reliable ways to hide visible PVC or butyl lining along the edge of a pond

The most common material used for lining a pond is butyl rubber. Many books on pond building detail how to dig a hole on a level area, line it with rubber, and lay a row of sidewalk curbs or tiles around it. However, almost nowhere is it mentioned that the edge bordered by stone will gradually slide into the pond. Another problem, which is practically not mentioned in the specialized literature, is a drop in water level due to evaporation. Even with frequent rains, in this case, after some time, an untidy butyl lining will also appear along the edges. But there is a way to avoid this if you spend a little more money and efforts during the construction of the reservoir.

Design presented at the 2000 Chelsea Flower Show: well-reinforced turf and decking surrounding a pond disguises its lining.

How to hide the lining of a pond

Bricks and block stones

The area will look more attractive if you lay bricks or blocks along the edge of the pond. Irregularly shaped blocks can easily be cut to follow the shape of the pond. It is important to line all the curves of the pond bank with stones from start to finish, and then edge it with cut blocks.

However, brick is not strong enough compared to natural stone. If you do use bricks, pay attention to their frost resistance characteristics and lay them, fastening them with lime mortar. For paving banks, special brick and concrete blocks. They fit together so tightly that to connect mortar not needed. Such paving looks modern, and if the house and buildings are old, then an ordinary brick paving with joints will look more appropriate than a block one. Bricks and blocks placed at the very edge of the pond are especially at risk of sliding into the water and therefore need a good foundation.

Paving slabs

The worst option for paving the banks of a pond is stone slabs, which cannot be cut to fit the shape of the reservoir.

Paving stones or slabs can look much better if the edge of the pond is modeled as steps. Rough stones and slabs that imitate stone, laid randomly, look good next to an irregularly shaped pond, while rough, rough slabs in light colors can give a pond or pool with straight edges a modern, perhaps Mediterranean, style.

To fit the shape of the reservoir, the slabs can be cut, but this is quite difficult to do due to the clamp circular saw at the edges of the cut.

To minimize tool damage when working on very thick slabs, use a chainsaw with a belt drive and the smallest blade possible. If you use a power saw, be careful not to overheat the motor.

As with brick or block paving curved shape, cut stone slabs must be edged with bricks or blocks.

Natural stone

Natural slabs or stones, of course, look very attractive. However, they are much thicker than factory-made slabs and therefore more difficult to install. In addition, they can also be quite slippery if they are constantly in the shade or under trees. Most practical way use around pond edges natural stones- border the pond with their debris. It looks beautiful if you make as few joints as possible, held together with lime mortar.

Flooring

Wooden decking works well to hide the pond lining and is usually laid on a row of beams at the edge of the pond. Often the deck extends just slightly, and sometimes quite far, above the water. In the latter case, the decking or formwork hangs over the water on one side, and the opposite edge is fixed to the ground. If the overhang of the flooring above the water exceeds a meter, then a support resting on the bottom of the tank and railings will be required. This will provide it with additional stability and safety.

Do not use particleboard or toxic wood preservatives. Take them instead ordinary tree hardwood or boards treated with non-toxic preservatives.

Unlike other forms of paved edges, decking more often needs to be reinforced because, when “set” on a hard edge, it can slide out of place.

How to hide the lining of a decorative pond

In order to hide the pavement and create a solid base, you will have to make an unconventional decision.

First, the paved edges of the reservoir must be secured to a suitable foundation. If the soil is hard, the foundation can be a 15 cm layer of concrete placed on a flat and wide shelf, cut around the entire perimeter of the pond about 30 cm down from the top edge.

• In clay or soft soil side walls must reach the bottom of the pond. Inside the pond different heights you can arrange baskets for plants.
• In soft soil or clay, this shelf should be located as close to the bottom or foundation of the pond as possible so that the wall can be built and the slabs placed on it. In this case, you need to build a wall of concrete blocks, not reaching approximately 15 cm from the depth of the intended paving.

To build a curved wall, the easiest way is to use half blocks or inexpensive bricks. Once the foundation is completed, the pit should be covered with a dense primer fabric or geotextile, extending to the upper edges of the reservoir, then lay the lining so that the shape of the foundation is clearly visible underneath. If this is not done immediately, then when water appears in the reservoir, it will pull down the lining, and with it the small walls formed from it at the top.

Depending on the shelf paving material, a low wall of stone, brick or even block can be built to end just below the proposed paving. Under low walls and wherever there may be sharp corners or additional load on the lining, additional geotextiles should be used. The picture shows how the pavement is raised and passes behind the low wall. Once construction is complete, consideration should be given to a spillway. Without it, the pool will fill to the edge of the pavement, and during a rainstorm, water will overflow the edges. A small pipe inserted directly into the wall and brought out through the lining of the pond under the pavement will help prevent flooding. IN clay soil To prevent movement, any walls should be reinforced with sand or gravel. The lining is cut to upper level low wall. In this case, when filling the reservoir with water, its level will have to drop by about 15 cm before a piece of rubber or film appears. In addition, you can stand on the edge of a pond without fear that it will slide down.

But, seeing how my neighbors had a bowl of high-strength cement of several tons squeezed out over a couple of winters, I was convinced that a rigid structure was not suitable. In general, I thought through everything and got to work.

I made the outline of the future reservoir oval - 8 m long, 3.5 m wide.

My son and I dug for a week and made the walls inclined, approximately 120°. The summer was dry, it was easy to dig: the dry clay did not stick to the shovel. On occasion, I bought a black adhesive film for gas pipelines, a very good thing, the only drawback is that it is afraid of ultraviolet radiation, but it still served for almost 20 years.

The reservoir turned out to be 1.5 m deep, three steps were made to exit, and a 160 liter polyethylene barrel was buried at the lowest point for the pump when changing the water. Then the entire reservoir was lined with two layers of polyethylene and glued with black self-adhesive film– for those times it turned out great.

True, the reservoir was quickly taken over by mosquito larvae, and we had to introduce crucian carp fry, which took root well.

In winter, I don’t drain the water, and the fish spend the winter quietly in a barrel (the depth is 2.5 m).

However time is running, the film has cracked over the years, the appearance has become untidy. I decided to line the pond with stone, since I brought a whole bunch of it from the city, mostly from garbage dumps.

Again, together with my son, they tore off everything old film, they glued it with a new one, especially since now everything can be bought. The bottom of the reservoir (up to 80 cm) was covered with a square diabase in a continuous bowl on concrete with reinforcement.

Higher up, I began to make blocks of 12 stones with thermal expansion joints so that they would not break in winter.

And on top the parapet and frame of the flowerpot were made entirely of concrete and wild stone, there was also enough stone for a waterfall slide.

In general, while my structure stood for two winters, no cracks were visible. The crucian carp are also doing well. Last year there were so many fry that they shared it with their neighbors, they just have a wild pond.

Honestly, it was a lot of work, it took 20 bags of cement and a decent amount of stone to do everything, but it turned out so beautiful! And the water gurgles from the jug, and the crucian carp play in the water! If anyone has any questions, call.

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If we do not forget that the construction industry has existed as long as humanity, then the most ancient of sciences is the discipline of how to protect the underground part of a building from the effects of what in ancient times was called “the mother of the earth.” Indeed, it has always been “cheese”, and builders understood this, having achieved perfection in ways to eliminate the problem. Proof of this is in ancient cities such as Venice. At the same time, no traces of the use of bitumen and tar were noted - waterproofing materials From oil in construction they began to be introduced only in the 19th century.

What is the secret of construction witchcraft? To say that the architects used clay is an understatement. Italian pasta is also made from flour, but not all flour products are pasta, especially since not all pasta is paste. The situation is exactly the same with clay. A legend about ancient technology has reached us “ clay castle", which in all centuries covered the topic of the safety of foundations in a flooded environment. True, today’s information about the clay castle provides only general idea on how to use clay to ensure waterproofing of the underground parts of the structure being built. The art itself seems to have already been lost, because modern theorists unanimously note that a clay castle is insufficient to completely solve the problem of waterproofing. How then, let me ask, should we treat the basements of St. Petersburg, which have stood dry since the 18th century, although they were built in wet soils at a level below the burial groundwater? By the way, the clay castle technology was used there, which, as you can see, still looks like an example of a successful solution to the problem...

However, the secrets of the clay castle as a fail-safe method of waterproofing can be revealed at the level of amateur construction. The inquisitive mind of a person who erects a structure with his own hands is able to grasp the principle that guided the ancient builders. It turns out that clay radically changes its properties when it is crushed and mixed with water. The resulting dough can form a waterproof screen if it is used to fill a trench around the perimeter of the building's base. The depth and width are determined by the level of soil watering and the depth of underground flows. This is a clay castle. It is characteristic that in ancient times this technology was used not only as a method of waterproofing, but also as a binding material. In rich mansions and temples, a clay castle was often placed on the brick lining of the floors, and on top was placed decorative rock or ceramic tiles. This moment reveals possible reason legendary impenetrability of “ancient clay”: it had adhesive properties! It's no coincidence that clay thrashed with chains, adding bull's blood, slurry and God knows what else... Were they trying to make it stick?

Today, the markets offer an endless assortment of rolled and coating waterproofing products, but if you have not only intuition, but also hands, patience, and most importantly, scarcity Money, you will only use clay.

A complete list of objects in the construction of which the clay castle technology should be used:

• artificial reservoir (pond, etc.)
• well;
• cellar;
• the foundation of any structure located in wet soil.

More about clay castles

For a clay castle, crumpled (moistened) fatty clay is used, or, in extreme cases, loam with a sand content of less than 15%. Skinny clay does not provide adequate protection against water penetration.

Oily clay is plastic, it gets wet slowly and takes a long time to dry. Its color has absolutely no meaning, so you should not pay attention to it. It will help to make reliable waterproofing proper preparation material for use. To do this, the clay is soaked, covered and left to sit for an indefinite time, making sure that it does not dry out.

Experts recommend preparing material in the fall and leaving it until outdoors until spring. During this period, a cycle of gradual freezing and thawing of the clay occurs, which will facilitate uniform penetration of moisture through the interlayer spaces into all particles. The result is a homogeneous, plastic material suitable for use in a clay castle. To further improve the quality, lime is added to the waterproofing mixture, but not more than a fifth of the total volume.

The clay should not be over-moistened or over-dried. You can check the required humidity simply the folk way. You need to take a handful of “real” rock, and then try to squeeze it in your fist. If the formed lump does not crumble and does not slip through your fingers, then the material is considered ready for use.

Clay does not deteriorate over time and practically does not require material costs for purchase, as it is found almost everywhere in common use. A correctly made clay castle:

• does not require repairs - cracks do not spontaneously appear in it;
• doesn't blur groundwater, but needs protection from storm drains;
• prevents the penetration of water, but allows moisture to pass to the foundation walls, and therefore it is recommended to additionally make surface waterproofing.

When constructing a clay castle, you should pay attention to the type of soil located in the area where the structure is being erected. If there is a sandy or sandy loam layer around the foundation, the expansion of clay during freezing will not play a big role. But for clay and loamy soil, an increase in the volume of the castle as a result of frost heaving can lead to unforeseen situations. In this case, it is important that the vertical surfaces of the foundation are smooth - without protrusions, recesses and expansions in the upper part of the structure. Otherwise, the buoyancy forces created by nature itself can lift the structure, squeezing the foundation upward.

How to make a clay castle

The width of crumpled clay waterproofing depends on the depth of the foundation, and the size may be different for the upper and lower parts. With standard depth underground structure up to two meters, the width of the lock at the lower mark should be at least 40 cm, and at the top – at least 25 cm. Clay should be laid in pre-installed formwork in uniform layers of 5-10 cm with mandatory compaction of each layer. If the openings of the pit correspond to the size of the waterproofing lock, then the formwork can be abandoned.

For a large amount of work that takes more than one day, the laid and compacted clay should be covered with a film to prevent the exposed surface from drying out, cracks forming in the lock body, or rainwater from entering.

The film will also be required upon completion of laying the clay waterproofing to the required level. The castle should be left covered for at least two weeks, after which it will be possible to begin constructing a blind area around the house.

In order to under open air to create a pond with an unusual bottom lined with stones, you need to create good waterproofing. It makes no sense to pour water directly into a dug pit without doing this, since instead of a reservoir you will end up with a swamp. The first layer of insulation is usually made of polyethylene or liquid rubber, less often - polymer bitumen or PVC. You can buy a ready-made pool, which you just have to dig in, but laying it out with stones is more difficult, since the mortar or glue will internal walls The container may become deformed and even crack.

When laying out the film, you must also cover the shore by about a meter. The film is pressed down with large stones on the banks and they begin to arrange the bottom.

Methods of laying stone

The most reliable way is to fill the stones with cement, but many of them can be completely hidden under the mortar. Therefore, it would be best to start from the center, pour concrete and strengthen the stones on it, pressing them into the solution. The solution should not be too liquid, since in this case it will flow to the center before it hardens, and the stones in the center will remain under its thickness, and the stones on the sides will not be secured by anything.

It is best to select large and beautiful stones in advance and, if possible, wash them before cementing, as dirt will get into the water, making it cloudy. If the craftsmen have plenty of time and patience, you can take multi-colored small stones and use them to lay out any of the mosaics you like on the bottom. It is not recommended to use stones with sharp edges, even if the pond is not planned to be used for swimming. If you accidentally find yourself in the water, you can seriously damage your feet with such a coating. It is best to use water-rolled stones, with sharp edges pointed downwards if present.

When concreting the bottom, water will need to be poured 3-4 times for about a week, and then pumped out, since the concrete will release harmful impurities until the water completely washes them out.

You can do without concreting and try to create conditions in an artificial reservoir that are close to natural. To do this, sand is poured over the film and water is poured into it. Can be planted on the banks and bottom aquatic plants, release the fish into the pond. But the stones in such conditions will inevitably become overgrown with silt and will cease to be visible in the second year. To delay this moment as much as possible and minimize the risk of water blooming, there is no need to use soil and clay to fill the bottom. If you put fish in a pond, pollution still cannot be avoided, and the pond will have to be cleaned.