Do-it-yourself machine for making plastic windows. Do-it-yourself assembly of modern plastic windows. Window installation and proper fastening
“Every fool can do it for money, but try it without money” (with Lebed, in my opinion) :)
It all started as usual: there is a great need, but no money to implement it. So I had to turn on my brain. :)
In general, it is given: big house no windows. Something needs to be done about this... Make wooden windows It’s possible to do it yourself, but without the appropriate tools, it’s very long and difficult. After fiddling with one window I realized that full set I'll make it for retirement. Therefore, I began to look for an alternative.
Why look for her? The alternative is here it is. Plastic. Cheap, technologically advanced, thoughtful, simple. It’s not for nothing that there are such a huge number of companies and firms producing windows. But their prices are steep (for me, at least)...
The Internet is a great thing. It took me a week to find the necessary nuggets of knowledge among thousands of pages of verbiage from sales managers, namely: how it works, what it’s called, what the welding temperature is, where to look for profile suppliers and other important questions.
The most important question “how to weld them” was resolved very simply: a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes which everyone has modern plumber and which can be rented for pennies, easily provides the desired temperature.
Having figured it all out, I bought some required material(frame profile and amplifier), cut it to size, and tried to weld it. First I welded the scraps. How does welding happen? Yes, just gently press the parts to a heated soldering iron, count to 30 seconds, watching how the ends of the parts melt and then squeeze them together. Leave for another 30 seconds to cool down.
Test result:
The “weld” here is not very thick, but for test welding it’s quite decent.
"Here!!! The casket just opens!" - with these words, I, filled with pride in my ingenuity, ran around the apartment, showing this unsightly piece of plastic to the household. :) After that, I started the car and went to the profile supplier to buy the entire set.
So, what is required for production:
1. The profile itself (frame, sash, impost, glazing beads) plus steel reinforcements plus all sorts of small things.
2. Machine for welding plastic (see photo).
So to speak, evaluate the idea. :)
Do not pay attention to the window in the background - it is wooden, taken as a “glass donor”.
The following are important in the machine:
1. A flat surface so that the parts being welded do not turn out to be a “screw”. I used a couple of sides from an old cabinet.
2. Guides fixed at an angle of 90 degrees. In my case, 2 profile trims worked.
Next, cut the workpieces. Plastic - with a regular wood saw, steel amplifiers, respectively, with a hacksaw for metal. If you mess up a little, don’t worry: the welding allowance is 3 millimeters for each workpiece, so welding will fix everything. :)
The pieces cut to size are welded. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that when welding the last, 4th corner, you need an assistant - pull out the soldering iron, because it is pinched.
Note: “milling the ends of the impost” (i.e. the ends of these sticks need to be cut out figuratively) - there is nothing complicated here (it’s a little tedious only because it’s easy to cut “in the wrong direction”), first they are cut out with a hacksaw (it carefully cuts plastic) those places that can be cut with a saw, and all sorts of curly things - with an ordinary “pioneer” jigsaw.
Working together is more fun.
Then... then comes the installation of windows in the openings.
“What about double-glazed windows?”, you ask. More on double-glazed windows.
Therefore, it is better to buy the double-glazed windows themselves (a double-glazed window is 2 or 3 glasses, they are separated by a so-called “distance frame” and the whole thing is glued together) at the factory. They are inexpensive.
This is why it happened: over the winter I collected old wooden frames, took the glass out of them (i.e. the glass came out for nothing). The distance frame is sold in packs of 900 meters, 2 kilometers... :), but the world is not without good people, and they sold me the 70 meters of frames I needed plus three kilograms of molecular sieve (it is poured inside the frames and over time dries the air between the glasses). Butyl tape for the primary sealing layer, polysulfide for the secondary one is sold by the meter and kilogram, so there were no problems with them.
I've never cut glass. But... the Internet, the Internet. :) After reading several articles about how to do it correctly and which glass cutter is better, I bought an oil-cut “Chinese” for 75 rubles, assembled the table and everything turned out surprisingly easy and relaxed.
Here's a photo of the cutting table:
We assembled the double-glazed windows, debunking the latest myth that the glass for assembling double-glazed windows can only be properly cleaned by a special machine :).
We inserted it and...received severe disappointment. Old glasses have uneven surface and the image in them is distorted, “floating”. In old windows, when the glass is located at some distance from each other, this is not so noticeable. But as soon as you put them together in a package, you get a “distorting mirror”. Here is a birch tree swaying outside the window 30 meters from the house, and at the same time it looks either thick or thin. :)
About a month later, these distortions finally got to me and, having bought a set of bags at the factory, I took the homemade ones out of the windows and inserted the factory ones.
In the end this is what happened:
The shooting point is somewhat unusual, from about 4 meters in height. He climbed onto the roof of the UAZ, took off his luggage, and took a picture of the house. :)
PS: I am not advocating making windows yourself. :)
I deliberately do not disclose the budget for this event, respecting the work of those whose bread is the production of windows.
Making plastic windows yourself is not easy, but, as practice shows, it is possible. Euro-windows have a number of advantages, but the price finished design often quite high. This is especially noticeable if you plan to install plastic windows in a house with window openings non-standard sizes. In this regard, many people are thinking about making plastic windows with their own hands.
Self-production of plastic windows
Firstly, you need a room to make windows. In "home" production plastic windows with your own hands this room will be used for cutting blanks, assembling window designs and storage of materials. The area of the room must be at least 35 square meters. m., with a long side of at least 7 meters, because The finished PVC profile for Euro-windows is sold in 6.5-meter lengths. To make plastic windows with your own hands, you will need a steel reinforcing profile, sealing, fittings and double-glazed windows. All workpieces must be stored on special racks. To cut the workpieces, a workbench is required; the Euro-window structure will also be assembled on it.
Secondly, in order for you to be able to assemble reliable plastic windows with your own hands, you need special equipment. The minimum required set includes tools for cutting the profile, milling machine and a welding machine. You will also need a drill, a grinder, a hammer, a square, a tape measure and much more from the carpentry arsenal.
If with availability ordinary tool If no difficulties arise, then the selection of special equipment for the production of plastic windows becomes a separate task. To cut reinforcing parts and PVC profiles, you should purchase a pendulum saw, because... You will have to perform this operation many times. Special tool will allow you to cut workpieces quickly and safely.
A welding machine is often in the arsenal of those who are used to doing everything themselves. Do-it-yourself plastic windows are unlikely to justify its purchase in terms of financial costs. It is better to rent a welding machine for a while. You will also need a workbench with workholding fixtures and guide rails. This will allow for quality welds.
When making plastic windows, you will periodically need a milling machine. It is used to trim the impost. Unlike welding, this can be done at a third-party site where the equipment is available. Drainage holes and holes for the handle can be drilled with a regular electric drill.
After assembling the frame and installing the fittings, installation of the double-glazed window follows. The glass is installed on adjustment plates, which are installed in advance. When the double-glazed window is level in the frame, it is secured with glazing beads. Plastic windows must be sealed. To do this, a sealing contour is installed around the perimeter of the frame.
Having broken down the process of producing plastic windows into individual components, you will understand that this is a completely feasible task for those who are accustomed to relying on their own strength.
Many people have already felt the benefits of plastic windows compared to old ones window systems. If you still don’t have modern Euro windows installed in your house or apartment, then you need to do it urgently. The presence of high-quality window profiles and double-glazed windows in plastic windows allows them to reliably protect your home from temperature changes and from extraneous sounds. After installing plastic windows in your home there will always be comfortable temperature both in winter and in summer, it will be cozy and pleasant to be in.
Installation plastic profiles with double and triple glazed windows reliably protect the house from the penetration of cold air and street noise.
Often, to save money, people prefer to carry out, and this is a completely affordable task. Despite the fact that the window itself has complex design, it is not difficult to install plastic windows yourself, and you do not need special equipment or knowledge to do this.
Features of the work
Before you start installing plastic windows with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations for carrying out this work, follow the stages and sequence of performing this work:
- measurements of the window opening are taken;
- old windows are being dismantled;
- surface preparation is carried out;
- new windows are being installed.
After taking measurements, and this must be done quite accurately, you need to contact a company you trust and order the production of windows according to the dimensions you specified.
One of the problems that may arise when installing plastic windows with your own hands may be that you will not be given a guarantee, since in most cases a guarantee is provided if all the work is carried out by the company’s employees.
There are no standards for size and shape for the specified type of windows; they may have window unit any size and shape, made individually. Particular attention must be paid to taking measurements; if they are done incorrectly, the installation of PVC windows will be difficult; they may be larger or smaller than the window opening, which will lead to additional costs of time and money.
The installation of PVC windows has its own characteristics that must be observed, otherwise all the advantages that PVC windows have will be reduced to a minimum. But don’t be upset, if you follow the recommendations for installing windows, taking into account the individual parameters of a house or apartment, then you can install high-quality plastic windows yourself, without involving specialists.
It is worth noting that what encourages people to install PVC windows with their own hands is that some careless representatives of companies that install windows quite often neglect certain stages of installation, thus saving their time. Even if you constantly monitor their work, they may not listen to your wishes and comments, which is why many people decide to install PVC windows themselves.
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Taking measurements
Let's consider how to measure windows without a quarter, what actions should be taken in the event of emergency situations.
If you are measuring a rectangular opening, then measure its width and height, do not forget to add the thickness of the window sill. When determining the width of the window, it is necessary to subtract the dimensions of the installation gaps from the result obtained, and when determining its height, the width of the gaps and the height of the installation profile. Measurements must be taken in at least 3 different places in the opening and focus on the most minimal result.
In order to determine the deviations of the opening in vertical plane, use a plumb line, in horizontal plane a water level is used. If they are significant, then everything must be recorded on paper, taking this into account the size of the window will be determined. If the width of the openings may differ in size, then the height of the windows must be the same; this condition must be met at least on one side of the house. The window should be installed at a distance that is 2/3 of the width of the wall. It can be positioned further only if you insulate the walls, which will lead to an increase in their thickness.
To determine the width of the ebb, just take the width of the window opening and add 5 cm to the bend. The width of the ebb will be the distance from the frame to the edge of the wall + the protrusion of the ebb of about 3 cm and the margin for bending it. Experts recommend measuring the slopes after installing the window.
The window frame is pryed up at the bottom with a construction crowbar and dismantled.
If measurement is carried out window openings with a quarter, then when determining the width, you need to add 2 quarter entries into the frame, in general, this is from 5 to 8 cm, when calculating the height, you need to add an entry into the upper quarter -2.5-4 cm.
To determine the size of the balcony window, the length of the parapet is measured and 6-7 cm is subtracted from both sides, which is necessary for installation corner profile. The height will be the distance from the parapet to the ceiling, taking into account the installation gaps. The dimensions of the side window blocks are determined in the same way.
If the building is old, then there may be a large amount of mortar on the slopes, and it must be knocked down to determine the actual size of the window opening. This will not only allow you to install the window unit reliably and efficiently, but also increase its width.
Once you have determined all the dimensions, you can contact the window block manufacturer and together with him you will need to decide on the shape of the window block, the presence of opening sashes and blind parts, and select fittings.
There are two types of window mounting:
- through the frame;
- with help in advance installed support fittings.
When choosing the first option, you will need to remove all double-glazed windows and swing doors so as not to damage them during the installation process. Using the second option is more preferable, since there is no need to disassemble the structure, which eliminates the possibility of breaking its tightness, but you will not be able to insert the window yourself using this method, since it is quite heavy.
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Carrying out preparatory work
The anchors are inserted into the holes in the frame and screwed to the wall with an electric drill.
Materials and tools required to complete the work:
- plumb line;
- water level;
- nail puller;
- crowbar;
- Bulgarian;
- perforator;
- electric drill;
- rubber hammer.
After your order has been delivered to you, you can begin work on preparing the surface of the opening. Clean the area near the window, cover the floor and heating devices. If necessary, the sashes are removed from the window block and the blind double-glazed windows are pulled out. To pull out a double-glazed window, first remove the vertical beads. Then remove the lower and upper beads, to put them in place, be sure to make marks. If you tilt the frame, the glass unit should come out of it on its own; carefully set it aside.
To remove the sashes from the awnings, first remove the plugs, and then unscrew the clamping bolts, then release top part opening sash and remove the hook from the lower canopy. After such operations you will be left with a bare frame. Make at least 3 holes on each side and 2 on top and bottom for anchors with inside frames For reliable fastening, anchors with a diameter of 8-10 mm will be sufficient.
If the window block is fastened to pre-installed fittings, then you just need to fasten it without disassembling the window; for this purpose, use special screws that are included in the kit.
Since no GOSTs provide for the fact that stand profile must be filled with foam, then most installers of plastic windows ignore this operation. To prevent the formation of a thermal bridge, it is necessary to fill the installation profile with foam; it is best to perform this operation one day before the installation of the window unit.
The old window must be removed on the day the new unit is installed. If you do not plan to continue using old frame, then after removing the sashes, it is filed and easily removed. After it was dismantled window box, it is necessary to remove the insulation and the seal that is located under it to the surface of the wall, using a hammer drill it is necessary to remove part of the slopes, the window sill is being dismantled.
It is necessary to thoroughly clean the ends of the opening from dust and dirt; if the house is wooden, then a layer of waterproofing must be laid under the frame. After this, you need to take out all the garbage and you can consider that the dirty work stage is completed. At this stage preparatory work is considered completed and you can proceed directly to installation.
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Window installation and proper fastening
All gaps between walls and frame installed window filled with polyurethane foam and covered with a waterproofing film.
Substrates are laid on the lower edge of the opening, these can be wooden blocks or you can purchase ready-made plastic pads. They are installed along the edges and in the center of the frame, and the frame or the entire window assembly is supported on the substrate; this will depend on the installation method you have chosen.
To secure the window on the sides, pegs are also used; they are installed along the edges so as not to cause the frame to warp. Using a water level, the window is installed horizontally; using a bubble level is undesirable, since it has less accuracy. To install the plane vertically, a plumb line is used. After this, you can install the anchors.
If the block is fastened through a frame, then first holes are made in it using an electric drill and holes are drilled into the wall using a hammer drill. First, the window is fastened on both sides at the bottom, the correctness of its installation is checked, and then the anchors are attached at the top and in the middle. The correct installation is checked again and the anchors are tightened.
If fastening is carried out through special fasteners (ears), then they already have space for anchors. In this case, the lower part is also attached first, and then the middle and upper parts, and at each stage the correct installation is monitored.
There is a special groove in the frame for fastening the drainage system; it can be additionally attached to the frame using screws.
After installing the frame, the window is assembled, everything is done in the reverse order that it was when disassembling it. After installing a double-glazed window, first install the top and bottom, and then the side beads; this is done using rubber mallet. Install the doors and check how they open; they should not open or close on their own.
The next step is to seal the gap between the frame and the wall. Typically, polyurethane foam is used. The disadvantage of foam is that under the influence natural factors it loses its properties, and to protect it it is necessary to create a good water barrier.
The inside must be covered with a special hydro-vapor barrier foam self-adhesive tape, it doesn't stick at the bottom. WITH outside a moisture-resistant but vapor-permeable film is glued. A strip with a foil-coated surface is glued to the bottom, then it is covered with a window sill. After one edge of the film is glued to the frame, the space is filled with foam. In order for the foam to polymerize better, the surfaces must be moistened with water, then the tape is attached to the wall.
The window sill should go into the window opening and all the way into the lining profile; the window sill should go 5-10 cm into the wall and have a slight slope towards the room. The space under it is filled with foam or mortar, and the window sill is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.
During the construction of his mansion, one acquaintance decided to buy windows, and it was impossible to ignore the column with the cost of the material.
The developer was slightly shocked! The price was almost two times lower than the cost of the entire order. It was then that the decision was made to purchase profiles and other materials at cost, and that plastic PVC windows would be made from them with our own hands.
The equipment necessary for the work was also assembled with our own hands. To obtain the required welding fixture, I used hand tool, which was at hand - in the form of drills, electric jigsaws, hammer drills, and other necessary tools.
The cutter for trimming the impost was purchased at the same place where the profile was purchased.
Since the profile is now available in a wide variety of shapes and designs, it is recommended to view the product catalog before ordering.
Before purchasing, you should also make sure that there is a steel frame inside the profile, which increases the rigidity of the window frame and prevents it from breaking.
Profile processing stages
First of all, you need to take measurements. After measuring and marking, the ends of the profile should be milled, ensuring their transverse compatibility. To cut corner joints, a “corner cutter” is used - a device that cuts at a certain angle. Each profile joint must be adjusted to the nearest degree. All angles must be 45 degrees respectively.Soldering the window frame
To fasten workpieces for welding, unique arms are used - one such arm can move along guide rails. For the manufacture of heating element two burners were taken from electric stove, and covered with Teflon fabric. Heating can be adjusted.
After heating the workpieces, you need to press them one against the other using a pneumatic cylinder from a jack. Thanks to the stop system, the molten edges of the workpieces are not pressed into one another by more than 3–4 mm. Compressed air is pumped into a receiver made from an old gas cylinder due to car compressor(up to 4 kg/s).
When the seam has cooled, repeat the procedure with the next pair. Thanks to the clamping system, almost all types of profiles can be attached.
To clean the weld seam in the plane, take a wide chisel and a knife from the ends.
Before the windows are installed, you need to make sure that all corners are glued and fastened at 90 degrees. If at least one corner does not meet this indicator, the window should be considered defective.
Double-glazed windows for PVC windows
We are done with the frame, next we need to insert a double-glazed window inside. It consists of several layers of glass connected in a certain way. There may be different number- for example, 2 or 4. The glasses that the glass cutter measures and cuts need to be placed one on top of the other and a special one placed between them metallic profile, and pour small balls into it that will absorb excess moisture. When the metal profile is ready, we place it between the glasses and cover it with a special polymer, similar to a rubber mixture. In this way, a sealed space is created between the glasses, which operates on the same principle as in a thermos.
There are simple and energy-saving glasses. The second type of window is different in that it reflects heat and retains it in the room. Such PVC windows are correspondingly more expensive.
Before ordering, you need to decide on the type of glass unit. If winters are mild enough in your area, single-pane glass will suffice. But where severe frosts are commonplace, it is better to install a window with two or three glasses.
The double-glazed windows should dry well, then you can proceed to their installation. They are simply inserted into window frames, which are made in advance. Typically, the profiles have so-called caps with rubber edging - this design does not allow air to pass through from the outside. We also cut these caps with a corner cutter to the size of the window frame, and then insert them into the frame profile.
Accessories
The choice of accessories - handles, mechanisms, etc. should be approached with special attention. Keep in mind that the room where the plastic windows are located must be constantly ventilated. That is, you will often open and close the window, which means you will use the fittings. The service life of windows directly depends on the quality of the mechanisms. Therefore, you should choose more expensive, but reliable fittings, so as not to bother with window repairs later.
Installation of plastic windows
You should trust only professionals in this matter. You shouldn’t save money here either; it’s better to do it once and with high quality. After the windows are installed, it is recommended to check them several times - open and close. The design must work clearly, flawlessly, and quite easily. Polyurethane foam should be applied evenly and in the right quantity to ensure proper sealing. As a result, you will get user-friendly windows, energy savings, sound insulation, and stylish interior rooms and exterior of your home.
Welding PVC profile is one of the main operations in the production process of PVC windows. The quality of the welding process ensures performance properties finished window, its aesthetic appearance and technical
Welding PVC profiles for windows is one of the main operations in the production process of PVC windows. The quality of the welding process ensures the operational properties of the finished window, its aesthetic appearance and technical characteristics.
In the window block, frame and sash profiles are welded at the corners. The profiles must fit snugly to the tsulagas, which completely repeat the profile configuration. The clamping pressure must be such as to exclude the possibility of their displacement and deformation during welding. Distortion of the plates is not allowed. To provide High Quality weld, and therefore its durability, it is necessary to withstand the welding conditions determined by the manufacturer of this PVC profile.
Welding machines
Welding machines are distinguished by the number of welded heads. The most popular welding machines are considered to be one-, two-, and four-headed. Multi-head in-line welding machines are used for simultaneous welding of contours and welding of mullions in one working cycle. This technology is not popular PVC manufacturing windows in our country.
On a single-head machine, welding of one window contour is carried out in four cycles; on a two-head welding machine, two cycles are required; on a four-head machine, welding of all four corners occurs in one cycle in automatic mode. The most productive is a machine with four welding heads.
Single Head Welding Machine
A single-head welding machine has the ability to weld profiles at a non-standard angle, that is, not at 90 degrees. The same possibility is provided on some double-head welding machines where one of the welding heads has a similar mechanism. The four-head welding machine is designed for welding standard angles and is used for large volumes of production of standard PVC windows.
Four head welding
There are two types of four-head machines - vertical and horizontal. Vertical welding machines are more compact, but do not have the ability to be integrated into automatic welding and stripping lines. Such lines use horizontal four-head welding machines. These lines occupy large areas in PVC window production, have greater productivity and require less labor involved.
Welding process
The process of welding PVC profiles in window production requires strict adherence to the prescribed standards of welding technology, namely: heating of the welded surfaces of the PVC profile, duration of melting of the surfaces, welding temperature, sufficient cooling time of the welded profiles. It is also necessary to maintain cleanliness working area, promptly clean the melting elements of the machine and the PVC profile itself for correct and reliable welding of the profile. IN technical conditions required for PVC welding profiles, strict adherence to the rules for quality control of the welded window contour is prescribed, since further strength depends on the quality of the weld finished product, that is, PVC windows, its operational longevity and safety.
During the welding process, it is necessary to strictly maintain the necessary conditions welding:
The temperature of the welding knife is 230 - 250 °C.
The surface of the knife must be clean.
The Teflon coating of the knife is wiped with clean cotton or a paper towel every hour, “hot”, without using solvents.
Seam heating time is 25 - 40 seconds.
Seam welding time - 25 - 40 seconds.
Before PVC installation profile on the welding machine, you must make sure that the surfaces being welded are clean, since grease, dust, PVC profile or metal shavings sharply deteriorate the quality of corner welding. After completing the welding process, visual inspection of the quality of the weld is carried out. metal-plastic window:
the seam must have White color(darkening is not acceptable, as it indicates that the heating temperature of the welding knife was too high or the heating time was too high).
the seam should be uniform along its entire length.
The workpieces must be welded over the entire area of the surface to be welded. Compliance control overall dimensions products according to the order form. The Teflon film is changed after 300-400 welding operations. Heating temperature, heating time and holding time under pressure are specified for each batch of profiles.
When welding PVC profiles, pay attention to the following:
moments (reasons for possible errors during welding)
Strength in corners is significantly reduced if the temperature of the welded profiles does not reach 17° Celsius, or there are
large drafts;
From the correct miter cutting of the profile, if the inaccuracy of the angle exceeds even 1 degree.
The temperature measured by the device does not correspond to the temperature of the welded plate;
The welded plate is cooled on one side by a draft;
Temperature, time and melt pressure do not correspond sufficiently to each other;
Weld stops are set too narrow;
Insufficient pressure of the pressure plates;
Correspondence of the dimensions of the tsulag to the dimensions and configuration of the welded profile;
The surfaces to be welded are positioned due to improper fastening (adjustment welding machine) or no cutting
parallel to the heating plate.
Temperature in production premises should not fall below 17 °C, relative humidity air - no higher than 70%. The area of the fillet weld, as well as its quality, along with the nature of the fastening of the impost, are decisive for the spatial operation of the window unit under the influence of operational and installation loads.
A light weld bead near the weld indicates that the weld was performed correctly. The workpieces must be welded over the entire area of the surface to be welded. The seam should be uniform and free of cracks.
If a weld bead is formed when welding a white profile Brown with a rough surface, this means that the material has been burned due to too much high temperature welding or too long melting time. At low temperatures, the seam bubbles.
Windows with such defects are not accepted for installation in openings and are definitely subject to alteration.
During welding, the indicators of temperature, pressure, cycle time, surface cleanliness for welding, as well as the length of profiles before and after welding, welding angle, diagonals of frames and sashes, are monitored on a scale of instruments.
dimensions in width and height.
After welding the frames, the strength of the welded parts is checked corner connections. To do this, corners measuring 250x250 mm are cut out of PVC profiles, at least 10 pieces. and carry out their testing in accordance with GOST 30674-99 "Window blocks made of
polyvinyl chloride profiles."
The welded profiles must cool for about 5-10 minutes before they can be processed further. Do not cool the weld expedited way by using compressed air and avoid contact with a cold floor, which leads to the formation of uncontrolled stresses in the material and the possibility of rupture of welded parts.
Automation of the welding process
Automation of the welding process is carried out using the so-called welding process controller.
The controller provides semi-automatic control of the welding process and maintenance of the specified heating temperature.
Its main functions:
- measurement and digital display of plate (knife) temperature;
- starting and stopping the machine according to a given program;
- automatic regulation plate temperature;
- digital indication of the machine operation algorithm;
- prompt setting of the required plate temperature;
- prompt setting of the required duration of heating and welding.
The average power consumption of the controller is about 20 W. Average term service for at least 10 years.
Based on materials from the Center for Modern Technologies "Universal", STK company
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