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Scheme for installing plastic windows according to GOST. Installation of plastic windows according to GOST - instructions. Preparing the window opening

Before 2003 installation PVC windows and balcony blocks were not regulated by the state. Window installation specialists were guided by the technology proposed by the manufacturers of these structures. Whether she was wrong or not is difficult to judge. But the number of complaints about freezing, blowing and leaking frames exceeded permissible limits. In order to eliminate these problems, GOST 3071-2002 was adopted at the beginning of March 2003, and the installation of windows in accordance with GOST became mandatory.

What is installation of a PVC window according to GOST

Entering a document regulating installation window seams and adjacencies, caused, at one time, a lot of controversy and disagreement. Companies specializing in window installation were unhappy with the upcoming procurement costs additional materials and increased labor costs.

The fact is that state standard approved several standards requiring the use in installation of materials that were not previously used, or were used reluctantly. This entailed an increase in the cost of the work of the performers and, accordingly, the consumer. Which, it was believed, could lead to a decrease in demand for window services.

But the worries were in vain. It was consumers who were the first to appreciate the benefits of GOST. Which is not surprising, since the document is entirely focused on improving the operating conditions of window and balcony units. What are these improvements?

1. Installation plastic windows according to GOST with vapor and waterproofing of gaps. The document provided a definition of an assembly seam, indicating the materials required for its construction. Now correct seam should consist of three layers: outer, waterproofing and vapor-permeable.
2. Recommended clearance parameters are indicated.
3. Requirements for surface preparation have been determined.
4. Acceptance rules have been established.
5. The maximum permissible distances between attachment points are indicated. For plastic profile this is 70 mm.
6. A list of actions for testing the quality of structures is given.
7. The maximum service life of the materials used is indicated: at least 20 years.

We didn’t ignore this one either important element window design, like low tide. According to GOST, it is now protected from below with diffusion tape made of polyester. This ensures a strong hold metal sheet to the wall and box. The presence of a tape on the lower ebb plane significantly reduces the noise from raindrops.

Application of standards in practice

Since March 2003, installers began to work in accordance with accepted standards. But for a consumer unfamiliar with the intricacies of this work, the question inevitably arises: what does it mean to install a window according to GOST? Knowing the answers will help you track the correctness of the installation and ensure its quality. The first thing you need to know is that all seams of the window unit should now consist of three parts.

1. The central one is made of polyurethane foam, which has high frost and moisture resistance.
2. The outer one is made of waterproofing tape.
3. The inner one is made of vapor barrier tape.

The basic principle of installation can be explained as follows: inner part The seam must have low thermal conductivity, and the side seams protecting it must have vapor permeability. In this case, if moisture penetrates the polyurethane foam, it will freely escape in the form of steam and will not cause harm to the insulating layer (spray foam).

Advantages of installation

Advantages compared to conventional professional installation, some. But they are all so important that it is unwise to ignore them.

1. Subject to compliance with all Gosstandart standards, freezing and leakage of seams is excluded. Consequently, and window frames.
2. The possibility of mold and mildew formation is excluded.
3. The insulating layer (spray foam) is protected from moisture and will not collapse prematurely. At incorrect installation, with the absence of protective tapes, yellowing of the foam can be observed. Under the influence of moisture, its structure becomes loose and destruction processes begin. Such foam loses its thermal insulation properties with all that it entails: the windows begin to freeze, leak, and are no longer a reliable barrier to the wind.
4. The ebb is connected to the wall more tightly by the frame, which provides an additional thermal insulation effect and increases the service life of the window unit.

There is another important advantage of complying with the requirements of Gosstandart. If the consumer remains dissatisfied with the quality of installation and orders an independent examination service, the company that installed this window will, at best, face re-installation. And the worst thing is considerable expenses.

Materials required when installing windows

Among installers of plastic windows, GOST 3071-2012 is called “tape”. This is due to the fact that, in accordance with the requirements of this document, it is necessary to protect the seams with “ribbons” - narrow-width products: vapor barrier, self-expanding and diffusion.

Materials for installing plastic windows according to GOST:

• PSUL tapes (self-expanding sealing);
• GPL (vapor barrier), made of butyl rubber or aluminum foil, for internal seam protection;
• diffusion polyester for external protection.

PSUL tapes are a self-expanding material and are sold in rolls. During installation, it is extremely important to choose the degree of increase in the volume of the tape. This indicator is always indicated on the packaging. So, for gaps 10 mm wide, you need to choose a tape with an expansion range of 30-40 units. The most popular brands of tapes are Profband, PSUL-EUROBAND, Liplent, Robiband.

Polyethylene tape GPL (water vapor barrier) is made on the basis of foam rubber. On one side there is an adhesive base, in the middle there is a vapor-permeable material, on the other side there is a laminated base and inserts made of metallized material (foil). The purpose of these tapes is to reflect heat back into the room and protect the polyurethane foam from moisture. Popular brands: TYTAN Professional, KLEBEBANDER, “Germetic-Abris”.

Diffusion tapes are laid under the tide to protect the seam from moisture with outside window. These materials are also made from butyl rubber, but adhesive base they have two: on each side. Therefore, the protective material is firmly glued to both the ebb and the opening. Popular brands: HAUSER, Robiband, Ultima, WS.

Installation technology according to GOST

Installation of plastic windows according to GOST 30971-2012, step-by-step technology which is proposed, can be performed independently.

Step 1: Using a stiff bristle brush or paint brush sweep away dust and debris.

Step 2. The seams between the bricks are leveled with moisture-resistant putty.

Step 3. Cover the putty with a layer of primer.

Step 4. Open the window block and remove the sash.

Step 5. Remove the stand profile from the bottom of the frame.

Step 6. Glue the PSUL at the junction of the frame and the stand profile.

Step 7. If you are installing a balcony block, remove the connecting profile from the outside of the frame. At the junction with the opening, PSUL tape is glued along the entire perimeter. If you install a window, immediately glue the tape around its perimeter.

Step 8. Take a simple pencil and a tape measure. Mark the attachment points on PVC profile. In accordance with the requirements of the standard, the distance between these points should not exceed 70 cm. The hole should be 150-180 mm from the corner of the frame.

Step 9. Drill holes. The diameter of the drill must be smaller than the diameter of the bolt or self-tapping screw.

Step 10. Support blocks are installed on the opening, which will be located under the frame.

Step 11. Insert the frame and fix it with self-tapping screws.

Step 12. From the street side, mark the places where the PSUL is attached.

Step 13. Remove the frame and, with a shift of 0.5 cm from the markings, glue the PSUL.

Step 14. Install on the frame starting profile for slopes.

Step 15. C inside Cover the frame with GPL tape.

Step 16. Install the frame and level it. Drill holes in the wall for dowels and perform final fixation.

Step 17. Install the sashes.

Step 18. Fill the seam with polyurethane foam.

Step 19. After 15-20 minutes, the GPL tape is aligned along the slopes.

Step 20. GPL is installed under the window sill.

Step 21. Install the window sill.

Step 22. A diffusion tape is installed under the ebb.

Step 23. Attach the ebb.

Installing a window according to GOST, the instructions for which are given above, is a simple task. If you comply with all the requirements of Gosstandart, the window openings will be reliably insulated and sealed.
P.S. And for dessert, I suggest watching a video: Window installation according to GOST

Installing PVC windows in compliance with the rules given in GOST 30971, adopted in 2012, will allow you to significantly extend their service life, avoid glass fogging and protect window openings from dampness. You can find out how to install a plastic window according to GOST, and what materials to use for this, by reading our article.

For quality and fast work you will need the following set of tools:

• Hammer.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Drill-driver.
• Nail puller.
• Sledgehammer.
• Level.
• Yardstick.
• Pencil.
• "Bulgarian".
• Silicone gun.
• Square.
• Metal scissors.
• Putty knife.
• Slick.
• Rubber hammer.
• Pliers.
• Brush.

Depending on the type of window opening and window model, you may need additional tools not included in the list.

In addition to tools, to install a plastic window you must have the following consumables:

• • PSUL is a pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape. PSUL has different thickness and width and is designed to hide the external foam seam.

• • Vapor barrier tapes are needed to hide the foam seam indoors. Tapes can be metallized or fabric-based. Metallized tapes are used for “dry” finishing of window openings (plastic slopes, plasterboard or PVC panels). Vapor barrier tape on a fabric basis, designed for finishing materials on water based(plaster, plaster, etc.).

• • Diffusion tape– needed as a lining under the window cornice. This tape has the ability to allow air to pass through, but not water to pass through.

• • Substrate under the window sill– this is a tape on a metallized base, with a layer of insulation, which serves as a heat and vapor barrier.

• • Anchor plates s– window fastenings connecting the frame to window opening. Anchor plates allow you to secure a window in an opening without through holes in the frame.

• • Self-tapping screws – secure the anchor plates to the window.

• • Dowel screws – connect the anchor plates to the window opening.

• • Primer composition– designed for surface treatment where vapor barrier tapes are glued.

• • Wooden wedges– needed for intermediate fastening of the window in the opening and setting the level.

• • Stand profile– is attached to the bottom of the frame and serves as a stand under the window and a mount for the cornice and window sill.

• • Plastic window sill– comes complete with the window, but if desired, can be replaced with window sills made of other materials.

• • Drain - rarely included in the basic set of a plastic window, usually ordered separately.

• Polyurethane foam - used to fill seams and as an additional fastening element.

Preparatory work

Dismantling

If it is necessary to dismantle the old window, perform the following steps:

1. Remove all sashes from their hinges.
2. Remove the glazing beads and remove the glass from the fixed sections of the window.
3. Detach the trim, drain and sill from the frame.
4. Remove the mortar and foam between the frame and the window opening.
5. Using a grinder, cut off all frame fastenings.
6. Pull the frame out of the opening.
7. Remove any remaining foam and mortar from the frame location.

Window preparation

Before installing a plastic window in the opening, it is necessary to make a series of preparatory work:

1. Remove the window sashes from their hinges by knocking out the awning rods using a hammer and screwdriver.
2. Remove the glass panes from the fixed sections of the window. To do this, you need to knock out the glazing beads from the mounting grooves; this can be done using rubber mallet and a wide chisel or spatula.
3. Attach the support profile to the bottom crossbar of the frame. When connecting the profile and frame, use PSUL as a spacer between them.
4. Install anchor strips around the perimeter of the window. The tapes are screwed to the frame and stand profile using screws. For ease of installation, lead the ends of the anchor strips indoors. Depending on the size of the window, from 2 to 4 fasteners are installed on each side of the frame.
5. Glue the PSUL onto the top and side posts of the frame, so that the tape protects the outer seam after filling it with foam.
6. Apply diffusion tape to the support profile on the outside of the window.
7. To protect the inside of the seams, apply vapor barrier tape to the frame.

Installation of a window in an opening

After all the preparatory work, install the frame in the window opening:

1. Secure the frame in the opening using wedges.
2. Check the correct horizontal and vertical position of the frame with a level.
3. Having placed the frame in correct position, through the holes in the anchor strips, mark the places for the dowel screws.
4. After drilling holes with a hammer drill, secure the frame in window opening on anchor tapes.
5. Using a brush and primer, treat the areas where vapor barrier tapes and PSULs are glued.
6. Fill the space between the frame and the window opening with polyurethane foam with low coefficient extensions.
7. After the foam has dried, trim off any excess.
8. Glue the PSUL and vapor barrier tape to the window opening.

Installation of drain and window sill

1. Spread the diffusion tape and place the drain on it.
2. Attach the drain to the stand profile using self-tapping screws.
3. Cut the window sill according to the shape of the window opening slopes.
4. In the place where the window sill will be located, lay metallized tape with insulation.
5. Insert the window sill into the support profile and secure it with screws.
6. Seal the gaps between the frame, drain and window sill with silicone sealant.

Final works

1. Insert double-glazed windows into the window sections, securing them with glazing beads.
2. Place the sashes in their places.
3. Check the operation of the window handles and mechanisms.

The plastic window is installed, all that remains is to finish the opening slopes and then remove the protective film.

Look detailed instructions on installing a plastic window using GOST standards, you can also watch in the video:

• Date: 08-04-2015
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Modern plastic windows have a fairly large number of advantages. Their installation can provide reliable sealing and thermal protection. In order to save some Money When installing windows, you can install them yourself. The design is quite complex, but its installation does not require the use of any specific tools. To get a high-quality result, you will need to study the rules for installing plastic windows, which are contained in GOST 23166-99 and GOST 30971-02.

Figure 1. Measurements of a plastic window.

Installation procedure for plastic windows:

1. First of all, you will need to measure the openings.
2. After this, the old windows are dismantled.
3. Openings are being prepared.
4. New windows are being installed.

Items that will be needed:

1. Building level.
2. Plumb.
3. Chisel.
4. Anchor.
5. Foam.
6. Screws.
7. Hammer.
8. Primer.
9. Marker.
10. Documents containing standards for installing plastic windows.

Necessary measurements: sequence of actions

Visually, the measurement process can be seen in Fig. 1.

Installation standards state that the first step is to measure the rectangular window. The width of the opening is measured. To do this, you need to determine the distance between the extreme points of the opening. Next, the height of the window opening is measured. To do this, you need to determine the distance between the upper slope and the window sill. To the result you will need to add the thickness of the window sill.

Measurements must be taken in at least three places for each size, at the extreme points and in the middle. Smooth openings can be found quite rarely. As a basis, you need to choose the smaller of the values ​​that will be obtained.

Installation of PVC windows: double-glazed windows, slopes, ebb, fittings.

Using a plumb line with a medium pointed end, you need to check the vertical curvilinearity of the opening. Using a level, you need to check for horizontal distortions. If there are deviations, they will need to be indicated on the sketch. The frame drawing is a rectangle that is inscribed in the sketch of the opening according to the measurements taken. Based on the sketch, it will be necessary to make adjustments to the frame dimensions.

Installation standards require taking measurements of all openings in the room. The width of these structures may vary significantly, but the height should be the same.

Next, the placement of the window block is determined. The structure must be mounted 2/3 of the width of the wall from the inside. If you plan to cover the walls thermal insulation material on the outside of the house, windows can be installed a little further.

After this, the external ebb tide is measured. Most often, you just need to measure the length of the mounted ebb or add 50 mm to the width of the opening at the bend. The width of the ebb is determined as the distance from the mounting plane to the outer part of the wall, the margin for the protrusion (35-40 mm) and for the bend. If thermal insulation is performed, it is important to consider the thickness of the sheathing layer.

Next, the window sill is measured. The width of the structure is equal to the distance from the inside of the wall to the mounting plane and the overhang size. In this case, you will need to exclude the width of the window frame from the result. The overhang must be calculated based on the fact that the window sill must cover heating battery a third of its size.

Slopes are measured after installing plastic windows, since it is quite difficult to determine the width of the structure.

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How to choose the design of plastic windows according to the fastening method?

After measurements of the structure have been made, you can purchase windows. During the selection process, you need to consider the type of structure fastening system. Installation standards require the following mounting methods:

1. Installation through the frame in the window installation plane.
2. Fixation using reinforcement, which is pre-fixed to the frame during manufacture.

We will most use the first method. When using this method you will need to completely remove window designs from blind doors.

The second method is recommended to be used if self-installation plastic windows. In this case, it will be possible to eliminate the possibility of damage to double-glazed windows and the tightness of the structure during the disassembly and assembly process. However, when installing the entire window block, the structure will weigh much more, so installing the window yourself will be quite difficult.

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How to do the preparatory work?

When windows are ordered, production and delivery times should be clarified. It is not recommended to carry out any work until the structure arrives.

First of all, you will need to clear the space in front of the windows, and then put away all the furniture. Gender and heating radiators It is recommended to cover with a special film.

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How to prepare a window profile?

If old windows are installed, they need to be dismantled. To do this, you will need to use a chisel to pry the glazing bead with which the glass unit is fixed, after which you need to snap it out of the groove with weak blows. The first step is to remove the glazing beads, which are located vertically. After this, you need to dismantle the lower and upper ones. It is recommended to mark the beads. At modern production The sizes of such devices may vary, so if they are mixed up, small gaps may appear.

The frame must be tilted so that the glass unit falls out of the grooves. After this, it must be placed against the wall at a slight angle.

You will need to remove the hinged doors from the awnings. decorative plugs and unscrew the clamping bolts. If there is a transom system, it is necessary to release top part sash and remove the hook from the lower canopy.

As a result, only the frame with imposts should remain. You will need to make holes in the inside of the frame for mounting anchors. You need to make at least three attachment points on the sides and two on the ends. To make holes, you need to use metal drills, since inside plastic construction There is a metal insert for strength. The windows will need to be secured with anchors with a diameter of 9-10 mm. The drill must be selected of the appropriate size.

If the windows are attached by lugs, then there is no need to disassemble the structure. You just need to install the fasteners into the frame and secure them using screws.

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How to fill a profile with foam and prepare an opening: installation standards

To eliminate the possibility of the appearance of cold bridges, at the point where the profile is attached to the frame, it will be necessary to fill the entire space inside the profile with polyurethane foam. It is recommended to do this a day before installing the windows so that the foam can fill the entire base and harden.

If you save old frame not necessary, it is better to dismantle it. The sashes must be removed from the awnings or pulled out along with the mounting screws. The window frame and frame need to be cut in several places. Using a crowbar, you need to pry up each part and remove it from the opening. In some cases, it is necessary to first remove the nails that hold the window frame in place.

The seal and insulation that are located under the box will also need to be dismantled. Using a hammer drill you will need to remove part of the slopes.

All garbage must be collected in bags and taken out.

The ends of the openings must be leveled and cleaned of dust. The surface will need to be primed.

If windows are installed in an old wooden building, it is recommended to install waterproofing material along the entire opening to prevent moisture from entering the foam layer. If there is a need to strengthen the structure, you can insert a wooden box.

Before the beginning installation work it is necessary to completely clear the window opening and the space next to it:

• remove everything from the windowsill,
• take down the curtains
• clear the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters from the window.

Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with cloth or thick oilcloth.

For ease of installation, supply 220V power via an extension cord and prepare garbage bags.

Removing the old frame

After the room is ready for the appearance of dust and debris, they begin to dismantle the old window frame.

The sashes are removed from the window. Window casings are dismantled. If necessary, the slopes are dismantled (knocked down).

The old window frame is dismantled, which usually causes serious damage. If you want to use old windows, for example in a country house, you should specify the option of preserving the old windows when ordering.

The old sill and the old window sill are dismantled.

PVC window installation

The sashes are removed from the plastic window and the glass unit is removed. A window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and secured to anchor bolts or mounting plates. In this case, it is necessary to strictly ensure that the frame is level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal; the frame should also be aligned vertically). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.

The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with polyurethane foam. Foam performs both an insulating function and is a fastening element. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this installation stage. The foam should be applied evenly and fill all the recesses and cavities of the opening, and the degree of expansion of the foam must be taken into account.

Installing a plastic window in most cases means that along with the new window a new window sill and a new sill will be installed. The exception is the case when the apartment (house, room) is renovation work and the window sill can be installed on your own.

If the window being mounted opens onto a balcony (as in this case), then it is quite practical and functional to install a window sill instead of a low tide (on the outside of the window).

If you have a good old sill, you can save it for a new window, but in this case you will need to restore it (restoration) - a paid service, the cost of which differs slightly from the cost of a new sill.

The window sill is cut to fit the opening and attached to the window (to the stand profile). If the opening under the window sill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, masonry or sealing of the opening with mortar is necessary. When installing a window sill (window sill), make sure that it has an inclination from the window within 5 degrees, and that the overhang is beyond inner surface walls no more than 60 mm.

When installing the window sill, you should take into account that its edges extend beyond the finish. internal slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.

Advice: when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be taken into account that the window sill is “recessed” under the window frame by 2 cm, so the width installed window sill will be 2 cm smaller)

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and when it dries, they are insulated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is a layer of foam) from the penetration of moisture into it, as well as from the damaging effects of the sun.

So, the main part of the work is finished. However for finishing the opening lacks slopes (which are both a decorative addition, under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element - increasing the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, in addition, it best combination with plastic windows.

Installation of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are installed on the same day as the window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalinist houses.

The slopes are either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the image) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable trims.

The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should know them.

The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at a right angle to the window), which visually increases the window opening. Choice plastic slopes VEKA is justified for more accurate wallpapering when already established slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden under it.

Advice: If you are renovating your apartment, then it is better to install platbands on the slopes from a Belgian sandwich panel after gluing the wallpaper yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).

Installing accessories on windows

On final stage A double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and the sashes are hung. Installation of additional accessories, fastening additional elements fittings and components, such as: stepped ventilator, clamp, mosquito net, blinds, etc..

The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, a work acceptance certificate is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.

Almost immediately after all the work is completed, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after installing a PVC window.

In terms of functionality, a plastic window is much better than old wooden windows. If you follow simple instructions With its care and use, it will last you forever.

Don't forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!

According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles":
Removal protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be done after installing the products and finishing the installation opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight on the protective film should not exceed ten days.

If renovation work is still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until completion. However, on the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.

The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties when exposed to heat and UV and can spoil the aesthetic appearance of the plastic profile.

General installation requirements according to GOST

GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams of junctions of window units to wall openings. Are common technical specifications» put into effect by order of the State Construction Committee of the Russian Federation on March 1, 2003.

Due to the need for adjustments project documentation for design and construction organizations The transition period for the development of GOST is set until 07/01/2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan have joined the Russian standards.

What's new? New standards bring significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have “Window Installation Instructions” approved by local authorities, the need to develop window installation units for each facility under construction and coordination of units with the customer, it is recommended to analyze thermal fields, and also provides for the execution of delivery certificates - acceptance window openings before installation, acts of hidden work and acceptance certificates of completed window installation.

Of particular interest in the standards are the Annexes:

• Appendix A (recommended) contains drawings with examples of window installation;
• Appendix B (recommended) sets out requirements for fastening windows in openings;
• Appendix B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows as a whole and is essentially the main working document;
• Appendix D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (isotherm analysis).

Generally, Russian standards for installation bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.

GOST requires window companies to large number formalities and has more requirements for testing joint designs and materials used for them.

Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.

Testing of materials and seams is generally justified by the fact that until now in Russia there were no detailed standards for installation at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience in determining properties installation materials and quality of seams. Of course, there is no need for the consumer to know all the provisions of this GOST; this is the responsibility of professionals.

Without delving into the subtleties, we can talk about three basic principles for installing windows, to which you need to pay the closest attention.

Three layers of seam sealing

The content of the main part of the standards is devoted to the rules for filling the installation gap between window blocks and openings according to the principle “the inside is tighter than the outside.” Each installation unit must have three layers of sealing: on the outside - protection from climatic influences, in the middle - insulation, on the inside - vapor barrier. Can be used different materials for outer layers and different mounting foams, but, in one design or another, these three embedding planes must be present.

Outer layer is designed to protect the insulation layer from moisture penetration into it, and must be vapor permeable in order for the insulation to be ventilated through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor permeable.

These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, its thermal insulation qualities decrease. The best way modern requirements for the outer layer they correspond to PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tapes). These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before installing it in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the leaks in the quarter in the opening.

Despite serious advantages: optimal construction physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction when the opening has good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plaster, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that PSUL cannot be covered with plaster.

To a limited extent, silicone can be used externally. In this case, certain rules must be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer must be half the width of the seam being filled, and the silicone must be glued only on two sides and work in tension, the remaining sides must remain free.

Sealant can be used when insulating the installation seam. Although it is not clearly stated in GOST, there is no ban on its use, no matter how much the supporters of mounting tapes might want it. An example of using silicone outside and inside a room is shown in node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as can sometimes be observed on objects, to simply spread silicone on top of the foam - this is an imitation of seam protection, but not the protection itself.

Central layer– thermal insulation. Currently, it is used for its implementation polyurethane foams. It is best to use foams designed specifically for window installation. Such foams fill the joint evenly and do not need to be trimmed after hardening. After installation, other foams hang in clumps from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.

Inner layer– vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from the penetration of moisture vapor from the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes, mainly butyl-based, are used, as well as paint-based vapor barriers for moisture-resistant plasterboards. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.

No cold bridges

An assembly seam is a node where the joining of wall and window structures occurs, which have completely various properties, including in terms of heating engineering. And it is important to make the knots in such a way that there are no cold bridges on the window slopes.

Basically, the problem of cold bridges is a problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of past years (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak area is the wall itself around the window frame due to its low heat transfer resistance. An area appears on the slope with a surface temperature below the dew point. In this area, firstly, high heat losses occur, and secondly, condensation occurs on it. If moisture condensation on a slope occurs frequently, then fungus (mold) may subsequently form in these places. The same applies to openings without quarters. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here the heating engineering of the junction units should be especially carefully considered.

Important tip– in the absence of quarters, use window frames with a width of at least 130 mm. With a narrow window frame, high-quality sealing of the seam is difficult and the likelihood of cold bridges is high. The options given in GOST with false quarters from corners or from platband are possible only if external plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of thermal engineering.

If available in the wall effective insulation (mineral wool or non-combustible polystyrene foam) the window should be either in the plane of the insulation, or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not arise due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.

Fastening the window block in the opening

The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when the windows are heated sun rays the bars of the frame and sashes increase in size. As calculated thermal expansion values ​​for windows white 1.5 mm should be used per 1 linear meter, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 lm (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up significantly less than colored ones).

In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. The corners of plastic windows must remain free, the outer fastening elements are placed at a distance of 150 mm from internal corners ram. The remaining fasteners are placed around the entire perimeter with a pitch of no more than 70 cm for white profiles, and no more than 60 cm for colored profiles. Near the imposts, the fasteners are also placed at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the frame and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due both to the thermal expansion of windows and to the fact that a thinner seam is very difficult to fill evenly with foam insulation.

Supporting blocks are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The blocks are also placed on the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one turning sash, the blocks are placed on the side opposite the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges at the bottom. With two doors, four blocks are installed, respectively.

Schematic diagrams of junctions between window frames and walls

1 – window sill board;
2 – foam insulation;
3 – vapor barrier tape;
4 – flexible anchor plate;
5 – support block for the window sill board;
6 – plaster mortar;
7 – dowel with locking screw;
8 – liner made of antiseptic lumber or leveling layer of plaster mortar (recommended only for the lower unit);
9 – waterproofing, vapor-permeable tape;
10 – noise-absorbing gasket;
11 – drain;
12 – insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 – thin layer of sealant

1 – foam insulation;
2 – insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 – frame dowel;
4 – sealant;
5 – vapor barrier tape;
6 – panel for finishing the internal slope;
7 – plaster leveling layer of the internal slope.

Thermal clearances must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized elements glazing: when making bay windows, shop windows, glazing to the entire height of the floor. These are the three basic principles when installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on various designs walls and the materials used for sealing the seam. And - as we already said at the beginning of the article - the human factor is very important - responsible and quality work installers.

When can windows be installed?

With the entry into force of Moscow Law No. 42 “On Silence”, disturbing the peace of neighbors is an administrative violation. Carefully read our instructions on carrying out noisy work in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.

How much does it cost to install windows according to GOST?

The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.

The installation seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, when using both expensive and economical materials. The use of one or the other will affect the stages (duration) of the work and the final cost of window installation.

Video instructions for installing plastic windows

Plastic windows have advantages over wooden ones and have earned popularity among the population. The article provides the procedure for installing plastic windows and video material (at the end of the text). The main provisions of GOST are given, including instructions for carrying out such work. Some recommendations and explanations on the arrangement of windows are also given. The description is given using the example of replacing an old wooden window; in new houses, dismantling is simply not necessary.

Sizes and selection of windows (GOST)

Window dimensions for different types houses are very different, but even in the same house they can differ by several centimeters. That's why it is important to determine correct sizes products, which determine its cost.

Comment! The gap between the edge of the window frame and the wall should be 2-6 cm; if it is larger, the window opening should be reduced by laying bricks ( stronger design) or polystyrene foam.

Windows are being produced standard sizes, which depend on the type of house - panel, brick, Khrushchev, etc. These are windows of the P-46, P-44, -44T, P-3, -3M series.

If standard windows do not fit, you can always make a custom window of any size. Moreover, there will be no loss in cost.

There are different types of windows based on the type of glazing (double glazing):

• two-chamber – preferable and cheaper;
• three-chamber, maybe more;
• triplex (multilayer) - do not produce fragments;
• with tempered glass – they produce small “dull” fragments;
• energy-saving, noise-proof, sun-protective.

PVC windows are available in three classes:

• economy class - KBE, Montblank, Novotex;
• standard – Rehau, Shueco, Vera;
• VIP class – Shueco Corona, Salamander, etc.

Preparing the window opening

First you need to prepare the window. Take out the glass unit and remove the sash. Drill several holes in the bag for fastening. For a double-hung window, 2 at the edges and one at the top and bottom are enough; for a three-hung window there may be more. Next you need to remove the old frame (if any), clean the surface from dirt and level. The frame is attached to the opening in three ways:

• special brackets;
• self-tapping screws for concrete;
• anchor bolts (most often and conveniently).

The depth of the holes for bolts is 4-6 cm, depending on the wall, for slotted bricks - the maximum.

Attention! If there are strong winds in the area, you should consult with window wind load specialists, especially on upper floors.

Materials:

• Polyurethane foam – double-hung window – 3 cylinders.
• Liquid plastic – 1 tube, not several windows.
• Water-based paint – 2-3 l/window.
• Dowels – 660 mm – 15-20 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws.
• Anchor plates or anchors – 4 per window.

The exact quantity depends on the type of window.

Installation procedure for plastic windows

Practice shows that Window mounting defects may appear during operation. It is typical that these errors are not noticeable immediately after the work is completed, so when installing plastic windows with your own hands you need to be very careful.

Installation various options windows differ somewhat from each other, but most general stages typical for all windows. These procedures are described below.

Ventilation of a room with PVC windows

When choosing a plastic window, special attention should be paid to room ventilation.

The fact is that the windows are almost completely sealed and ventilation is only possible by opening the window sashes, which leads to drafts. Wooden windows do not have such a defect. The way out is to install windows equipped with ventilation valves, for example, "Aereko".

A special feature of the valve is the absence of extraneous noise from the street. One valve provides ventilation for a room of approximately 50 square meters. Ventilation is performed continuously, with adjustable flow.

Thus, installation of plastic windows is possible on your own.